wittek 50G User manual
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Operator’s Manual for
50G and 50G Jr. Ball Washers
I. INTRODUCTION
WITTEK Ball washers are shipped in a corrugated shipping crate which is designed to absorb considerable damage
and abuse while protecting the machine. As long as the machine is securely banded to the pallet, it should not have
sustained any damage.
Inspect the machine immediately after removing the outer portion of the shipping crate. If it is found detached or moved
from the pallet, there is possibility of damage. Inspect the machine. If any damage is discovered, immediately notify the
shipping carrier and take the appropriate action.
CUSTOMER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR FILING ANY DAMAGE CLAIMS WITH THE CARRIER.
A. Unpacking and Inspection
1. Make a visual inspection of machine:
a. Make sure the machine is securely banded to the pallet.
b. Check the hopper and upper portion of the machine for any visible damage.
2. Cut or break the steel bands that secure the machine and lift it from the pallet. Make sure
the machine is lifted by the frame. Lifting the washer by the plastic tank or wire hopper
may result in damage to the drain on the bottom of the tank.
The machine is now ready for installation.
B. Installation and Hook-up
1. Select a working location with:
a. Adequate working space (recommended minimum of 50 square feet).
b. A hard, stable surface.
NOTE
The machine may be used outdoors; however, DO NOT PLACE THE MACHINE DIRECTLY ON OPEN GROUND.
A HARD SURFACE (SUCH AS A PIECE OF ” PLYWOOD) MUST BE KEPT BETWEEN THE MACHINE
AND OPEN GROUND.
2. It is not necessary that the machine be perfectly level. The 50G Washer is designed to
drain in the center of the tank, permitting efcient water drainage from off-level positions.
3. The machine is shipped with a 1 ” ball valve which is placed inside the hopper of
machine during shipping. Remove ball valve from hopper, attach to drain pipe, and
tighten by hand.
4. A drain extension can be attached to the ball valve. A standing drain pipe or xture
can be connected directly. Many applications use a standard ” garden hose as a exible
drain extension. Attachment to a garden hose requires use of a reducer/adapter, which can
be obtained from a hardware store or other local source.
5. Plug machine into a standard 110V, 3-prong wall receptacle or UL approved extension.
Be careful to keep electrical power source clear of water.
WARNING: THE MACHINE IS DESIGNED WITH A STANDARD 3-PRONG GROUNDED SAFETY PLUG.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DEFEAT ITS PURPOSE. USE OF A PLUG ADAPTOR OR NON-
GROUND POWER SOURCE CAN RESULT IN SHOCK OR INJURY.
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C. Machine Start-up and Test Cycle
1. Check Drum Alignment
a. The machine has been properly tested and inspected in the factory prior to
shipment. It is possible, however, that vibration or movement during shipping
could cause minor drum misalignment. Check drum alignment prior to starting
the machine.
b. Open the lid of the machine and place golf balls in each of the slots between the
molded guides, in the lower drum front. Gently rotate the drum by hand, turning
the top of the drum toward the front of the machine. The drum should turn
smoothly and evenly as the balls travel through the lower tank and appear behind
the drum.
c. If the balls bind or jam, or if the drum turns with uneven resistance, it is out
of alignment.
2. Soap and Water Fill
a. Put one cup of WITTEK Golf Ball Soap, or any other low-sudsing (Borax-type) powder
detergent into the empty tank.
b. Fill the tank approximately 2 inches from the top with luke-warm to hot water.
WARNING: USE ONLY A LOW-SUDSING POWDER DETERGENT IN THE MACHINE. DO NOT USE
LAUNDRY DETERGENTS, LIQUID CLEANERS, CHEMICAL SOLVENTS, OR ACIDS IN THE
MACHINE. USE OF ANYTHING OTHER THAN A LOW-SUDSING POWDER DETERGENT
CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY, OR DAMAGE TO GOLF BALLS OR RUBBER LINERS.
3. Test Cycle
a. Make sure the machine is closed and the rubber latches are fastened.
WARNING: NEVER OPERATE MACHINE WITH LID OPEN OR THE RUBBER LATCHES UNFASTENED.
b. With the tank properly lled, place an empty basket or container on the oor in front of
the machine below the ball exit chute.
HINT: For the rst couple of golf balls, the basket should be held near the exit chute. Golf balls might bounce
out if the basket is left on the ground.
c. Turn the machine on using the ON\OFF switch located on the end of the drive motor. The
machine should make a low humming sound: motor, drive shaft, and drum should turn.
d. Make certain that the vibrator motor is running and that the hopper is vibrating. The
vibrator motor ON\OFF switch is located on the connecting wire between the vibrator
motor and the drive motor.
e. Place a few balls in the hopper. Observe and make sure the balls roll and enter smoothly
through the ball entry trough on the left side of the hopper. After approximately 20
seconds, the balls should exit the machine from the ball exit chute (front right of machine)
and fall into the basket.
f. Test cycle is complete. The machine is performing properly and is ready for general use.
WARNING: DO NOT RUN GOLF BALLS THROUGH THE MACHINE WITHOUT WATER IN THE TANK.
SERIOUS DAMAGE CAN OCCUR BY RUNNING BALLS THROUGH A DRY MACHINE.
D. Operation and Maintenance for Effective Cleaning
WITTEK Ball Washers are designed such that no periodic mechanical maintenance is necessary. All
moving parts, such as motors and bearings, are sealed so that no lubrication is required. Metal surfaces
are powder coated. The upper and lower tank is constructed of high-impact molded polyethylene.
Most breakdowns or mechanical failures occur as a result of torque overload from accumulation of dirt
or debris. Therefore, it is imperative to maintain proper operating practices and to clean the machine after
every use in order to insure efcient continuous performance.
In any material handling operation, location variables, operator capability, logic, and common sense are
the major factors in the creation of a system. Methods of maintaining a steady ow of balls through the
machine will vary from operator to operator. However, there are some general rules to follow for
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obtaining the most effective use of the WITTEK Ball Washer.
1. The use of open-web wire baskets (such as WITTEK R-2 Baskets) is recommended. Make sure
that an adequate supply is on hand to facilitate a workable ow of balls.
2. Always use the proper soap and water solution,
3. Always turn the machine on before feeding hopper.
4. Have an empty basket in place below the ball exit chute.
5. MONITOR THE FLOW OF BALLS IN THE HOPPER for sticks, rocks, chunks of mud, golf
tees, broken balls or any other debris, and REMOVE AS DISCOVERED. Foreign matter hinders
the machine’s cleaning ability, and solid objets, such as golf tees, can cause considerable damage.
6. The machine is designed to pass small debris through the drain slot on the bottom of the lower
drum. Large objects must be removed by hand.
7. Exceptionally dirty or muddy balls should be presoaked or cycled through the machine twice.
8. After balls are clean, rinse soap lm by dunking in clear water or rinsing with a garden hose.
9. Drain water after each use or when exceptionally dirty.
10. DO NOT LEAVE WATER IN THE TANK. Standing water will accelerate deterioration of rubber
cleaning surfaces.
11. Regularly remove the drum from washer to inspect for broken or cut balls, large debris, or other
obstructions that may be lodged in the lower drum guides or drainage slot.
The pillow block bearings are designed with quick-release pins to facilitate easy drum removal.
To remove the drum:
a. Remove the quick-release pins from each pillow block bearing.
b. Rotate the drum until the drive coupling is vertically aligned.
c. Pull the drum straight up and out of the lower tank.
13. Hose down the inside of the machine after each use to clear the machine of dirt and debris.
12. The typical washer is used for approximately two or three hours per day. This is not a limit.
WITTEK Washers are designed for heavy duty, continuous use. Many machines are used for
much longer periods of time with excellent results.
13. The machine is equipped with an overload protector. In case of blockage, the machine will
automatically shut OFF to prevent serious damage. Removing the drum may be necessary. To
reset, turn ON\OFF switch to “OFF” position, clear machine of blockage, wait ve minutes, and
then turn “ON” again.
II. REPAIRS AND ASSEMBLIES
WARNING: ALWAYS TURN POWER OFF WHEN WORKING ON MACHINE! NEVER INSERT
HAND IN THE BALL FEED BASKET WHEN MACHINE IS ON!
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A. Motor \ Drive System
All motor \ drive components are easily removable and accessible by removing the motor from the motor
support platform.
1. Removing Motor and Coupler
a. Remove motor shroud.
b. Remove hex head motor mounting bolts.
c. Loosen the allen head set screw on the two-piece solid drive coupling.
d. Remove motor away from drum.
e. Remove coupler from shaft.
2. Steel and Fiber Gears: Inspection and Replacement
The machine is designed so that teeth will shear off of the ber gear in order to prevent the
motor from burning out due to sudden blockages. It is recommended to keep a spare ber gear
in stock for immediate emergency service.
a. Disconnect two-piece coupling from motor shaft.
b. Remove allen set screws and face plate from motor.
c. Visually inspect motor housing for damage to steel or ber gears. Gears with any visible
damage (such as broken or missing teeth) must be replaced.
d. Remove and replace faulty gear or gears.
e. Lightly grease gears with lithium grease.
f. Reassemble and remount coupling and motor.
3. Drum Alignment
a. Loosen but DON’T REMOVE the four bearing mounting bolts and motor mounting bolts.
b. Place golf balls in the slots between the ball guides in the front of the drum. Rotate drum
toward you, about of the way. Place golf balls in the slots in back of drum. Rotate the
drum away from you so that the balls are between the inner and outer drums.
c. Leave the balls in place and tighten the bearings and motor mounting bolts. The drum is
now horizontally aligned. Make sure coupler set is level after tightening bolts.
d. Gently rotate the top of the drum toward the front of the machine. The drum should turn
smoothly and evenly as balls travel between the lower guides and appear behind the drum.
e. If the balls bind or jam, or if the drum turns with uneven resistance, there are two
probable causes:
1) Foreign matter caught between the guides.
Remove the drum. Rinse the lower drum with water. This will eliminate any
small debris or foreign bodies lodged in the tracks.
2) Vertical drum misalignment.
Shim under the pillow block bearings with 1/16” washers or sheet metal. Apply
one layer of shim at a time, rechecking the drum alignment after each layer, until
the drum turns freely. Excessive shim will interfere with proper ball
clearance on top of the drum.
NOTE
Resistance in drum rotation can also be a result of binding in pillow block bearings. Check by removing motor from
the machine and turning drum by hand without balls in the slots. Difcult rotation means bearings are binding and
must be replaced.
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4. Replacing or Converting to a Nylon Brush Drum.
The procedure for replacing or converting an inner drum is similar to the procedure for removing
the drum for purposes of inspection and cleaning (Sec. I, D, Step 11; page 4). In addition to these
directions, the bearings and coupler must be transferred to the new drum shaft.
a. Remove Quick Release pins from pillow block bearings.
b. Vertically align coupler.
c. Remove drum from tank by lifting straight up.
d. Remove coupler and bearings from old drum shaft. Take care to retain keys from
keyways in coupler sections.
e. Place the bearings on shaft of the new brush drum.
f. Lower drum/bearing unit into place.
g. Visually align drum in the center of the tank. Tighten set screws on bearings.
h. Make sure than the drive coupler halves are sung to each other and that the key is in
place in the keyway.
i. Tighten set screw on coupler.
j. Recheck drum alignment. (Sec. I C, 1; page 2)
B. Replacing Rubber Liners
1. Relining the Inner Drum
The 50G Inner Drum Liner Replacement Kit consists of two pieces of rubber (one textured and
one smooth) and all necessary mounting hardware.
a. Remove inner drum as described in Sec I, D, Step 11; page 4..
b. Remove old liner.
1) Remove sheet metal screws from inner drum.
2) Remove and discard old rubber liner and shim.
3) Clean residue of old liner from drum surface.
c. Installing new liner
d. Wrap the trimmed shim rubber around the drum and secure with tape. Three wraps around
the circumference of the drum will generally be enough.
e. Wrap, mark, cut, and tape the long textured liner to the drum in the same manner as
the shim.
f. Use a 7/64” or 1/8” drill bit. Drill 9 holes, each approximately ” apart, along one side
of the liner seam. Make sure than the holes are in the recesses between the ribs of
the rubber. Then drill 9 matching holes on the opposite side of the seam.
g. Drive one of the #10 sheet metal screws (Phillips head) into each of the 18 holes,
beginning from the edges and working toward the center. Make sure that the heads of the
screws are seated well beneath the surface of the rubber ribs.
h. Turn the drum around to the halfway point, exactly opposite from the liner seam. Drill
two more holes and install two more screws, each about 1 inch from the edge.
i. Repeat this procedure seven or more times, placing pairs of screws at various points
around the drum. There will be 35 total screws holding the shim and liner in place
around the drum.
j. Remove the tape. The relining of the Inner Drum is now complete.
k. Trim the width of liner.
2. Relining White Molded Outer Drum Guides - Bottom Half
The Replacement Kit for the 50G Superwash Outer Drum contains 4 strips of textured rubber
(of equal length) that are mounted in the bottom half, and the sheet metal screws necessary for
mounting. The 50G Jr. has 3 similar strips.
Note that the new rubber liner strips are shipped oversized and must be trimmed to match the
length and shape of the old strips, and that new mounting holes must be drilled to match those
in the old strips.
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NOTE:
Do not attempt to remove the white molded plastic guide “shell” itself. These pieces are permanently installed into the
drum halves at the factory and are not meant for removal or replacement.
a. Remove inner drum if not already removed.
b. Remove sheet metal screws from each rubber strip.
c. Clean off the residue of the old rubber strip.
1) ONE STRIP AT A TIME, lay each old strip over each corresponding new strip,
and cut the ends to duplicate the trim angle of the old strip.
2) After trimming, drill through the existing holds of the old strip to make new holes
in the corresponding new strip.
NOTE:
When trimming or drilling new liner strips, it is important to keep the new and old pieces together TEXTURED SIDES
DOWN, and always drill or cut into a secure wooden surface such as a workbench, or 2” x 4”.
d. Install the new strips into the existing holes in the tracks in the while molded guide “shell”
with the new screws that are provided.
3. Relining White Molded Outer Drum Guides - Top Half
The Replacement Kit for the 50G Superwash Outer Drum contains 5 strips (four of equal length
and one short piece) of textured rubber that are mounted in the top half, and the sheet metal screw
necessary for mounting. The 50G Jr. has four strips.
a. Cut, trim, and drill the top strips in the same manner as the bottom strips.
b. Taper the ends of the new strips that line up to the entry and exit chutes to match the
taper of the old ones.
c. Install the new strips into the existing holes of the liners as described above.
C. Electrical System
WARNING: ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM POWER SOURCE WHEN
WORKING WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
1. Replacing Heater Coil.
a. Remove cover plate from starter switch.
b. Remove old heater cover.
c. Insert new heater coil.
d. Replace cover plate over starter switch.
2. Replacing Heater Coil and Starter Switch Unit.
WARNING: INCORRECT WIRING CONNECTIONS CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY
OR DAMAGE TO MACHINE.
a. Remove cover plate from NEW starter switch.
b. Install NEW heater coil into NEW starter switch.
c. Remove cover plate from old starter switch.
d. Disconnect all wires from terminals.
e. Loosen the wire retainer screw. Remove the lock nut that attaches starter switch box
to motor cover.
f. Knock out one of the openings in the NEW starter switch box and mount to the motor
with the conduit nipple and lock nut.
g. Reconnect all wires.
h. Install the cover plate.
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D. Installing the 50G Dolly (Note: Dollies are not available for the 50G Jr.)
1. Remove the 1 ” ball valve.
2. Remove the two -20 hex head thread cutter screws from the drainpipe support bracket.
3. Turn drain pipe a quarter turn to the left (counter-clockwise), so that the drain pipe is on an angle.
Make sure the drain pipe clears the framework of the dolly.
4. CAUTION: HANDLE DRAIN ASSEMBLY CAREFULLY! ONLY SWIVEL THE
DRAINPIPE HORIZONTALLY; NEVER APPLY ANY VERTICAL
PRESSURE OR TORQUE TO THE DRAINPIPE ASSEMBLY.
5. Lift ball washer onto the dolly (handles in front of machine).
6. Move drain pipe back into place.
7. Reinstall support bracket onto washer frame. Slide plate over drain pipe marker hole placements
with a punch or a marker. Drill holes with a 3/16” drill bit.
8. Reinstall screws.
9. Reinstall 1 ” ball valve.
E. Replacing Rubber Latches
Rubber latches are made of a durable exible material designed to withstand abuse. They may, however,
eventually require replacement. Refer to the illustration below.
1. Remove the machine screws from each top and bottom hinge bracket
2. Replace latch and re-install screws.
F. Troubleshooting
This section covers most of the typical malfunctions of the WITTEK washer. Use this section in
conjunction with the parts list and diagrams found elsewhere in this manual.
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Motor does not turn
Motor shuts off during operation
Repeated motor shut-off, or
repeated jamming (no foreign
matter)
Sudden jam-up
Gradual slow down / Machine
stops running
Motor turns and makes loud
noise (drum is not turning)
Balls are not being cleaned
Drive motor turns but hopper
motor does not vibrate
Water does not drain
-Power outage
-Electrical malfunction in machine
-Thermal overload
-Machine is jammed by foreign
matter
-Drum misalignment
-Bearings binding
-Faulty motor
-Large foreign body lodged in tracks
-Drum misalignment
-Uneven wear in liners
-Faulty steel or ber gear in motor
-Dirty water
-Worn liners
-Faulty connection
-Faulty hopper motor
-Clogged drain
-Faulty valve
-Check external electrical source
-Check/replace heater coil
-Check/replace starter switch
-Check/replace motor
-Clean machine and reset starter
switch
-Realign drum
-Replace pillow block bearings
-Replace motor
-Clear machine and reset starter
switch
-Realign drum
-Replace liners
-Remove and replace faulty gear(s)
-Change water
-Replace liners
-Check and repair electrical connec-
tions in motor
-Check/replace hopper motor
-Clear drain
-Check/replace ball valve
PROBLEM: PROBABLE CAUSE: REMEDY
G. Ordering Replacement Parts
WITTEK Ball Washers are designed for continuous use and are virtually indestructible. However, certain
component parts, such as pillow block bearings, liners and guides, molded guideliners, and motor gears,
are subject to wear and deterioration and may eventually require replacement.
WITTEK Ball Washers’ parts (pillow block bearings, motor gears, replacement guide liner sets, etc.), are
maintained in stock in the factory for immediate delivery. The WITTEK parts department can ship parts
quickly. In emergency cases, parts can be shipped via next-day delivery.
All assemblies and replacements of WITTEK Ball Washers utilize standard hardware and can be accom
plished by reasonably competent maintenance personnel. Be sure to follow all fundamental operation and
safety rules when working machinery.
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II. PARTS LIST
Model 50G Superwash Parts List
73175 Starter Switch with Heater Coil
73176 Vibrator Motor
73186 Drive Coupling
73567 2002 Model Rubber Liner 2 ” x 10 ” (1 needed)
73568 2002 Model Rubber Liner 1 ” x 24” (1 needed)
73569 2002 Model Rubber Liner 1 ” x 32.68” (5 needed)
73572 H.P. Motor with Starter Switch and Heater Coil
73573 H.P. Motor, No Switch
73574 2001 and earlier 1 ” x 32” Rubber Liner (7 Needed)
73575 2001 and earlier 1 ” x 23” Rubber Liner (1 Needed)
73576 2001 and earlier 1 ” x 9 ” Rubber Liner (1 Needed)
73577 Custom Quick Release Washer Bearing Only
73578 Custom Quick Release Washer Bearing Complete with Housing
73579 Plastic Coated Wire Hopper with Entry Chute
73581 Quick Release Pin Only
73585 50G LID Replacement
73588 Replacement 50G Nylon Brush Drum
73589 Replacement 50G Drum with Rubber Liner
M-73-43 50G Superwash Replacement Rubber Latch
M-73-102 50G Superwash Motor Guard
M-73-126 50G Superwash Liner/Guide Set
M-73387-2 50G Superwash Heater Coil Only
Model 50G Junior Parts List
73173 H.P. Motor with Starter Switch and Heater Coil
73174 H.P. Motor, no Switch
73175 Starter Switch with Heater Coil
73176 Vibrator Motor
73181 Fiber Gear for Motor
73182 Steel Gear for Motor
73186 Drive Coupling
73192 Slanted Steel Gear For Motor
73193 Plastic Coated Wire Hopper with Entry Chute
73582 5.75” x 2.375” Rubber Liners (1 needed)
73583 19.5” x 1.75” Rubber Liners (2 needed)
73584 20.375” x 1.75” Rubber Liners (3 needed)
73586 12.875” x 1.75” Rubber Liners (1 needed)
73590 Replacement 50G Jr. Drum with a rubber liner
73595 Replacement 50G Jr. Drum with a nylon brush drum
73592 50G Junior LID replacement rubber liner for drum
M-73-11 Heater Coil Only
M-73-30 50G Junior Washer Motor Guard
M-73-154 50G Junior Liner/Guide Set
M-73-56 50G Junior Replacement Rubber Latch
This manual suits for next models
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