3D Upfitters Ender 3 S1 User manual

Ender 3 S1/Pro/Plus Enclosure Kit
Installation Manual 1.5
February 2023
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You Really Do Want to Read the Directions
Hey, we get it. You just got your new enclosure kit and want to start using it as fast as possible.
How hard can assembling a few plastic panels possibly be? It’s not that hard, assuming you’re
following the directions, but try to use brute force, and you’ll end up working your way through
your vocabulary of swear words. While the acrylic pieces in the kit are strong, they are still
plastic and will break if bent far enough. The ghosts of the broken panels that have gone before
you have become much stronger than you could ever imagine and are whispering into your ear,
“just be a little careful.” !
Before you Start
Is This Manual for Yo u r Kit?
This installation manual covers the enclosure design for the Creality Ender 3 S1 and
Ender 3 S1 Pro, and Ender 3 S1 Plus ONLY. The Ender 3 V1, V2, and Max all require different
enclosures! If you have a different enclosure version, please read previous versions of the
manual available on the website. The Ender 3 S1 and S1 Pro and S1 Plus enclosures all have
different vent placements because they have different metal electronics housing. The regular
S1 has both a front and right-side vent, the Plus has a left and right-side vent, and the S1 Pro
has only a right-side vent. !
The regular S1 and Plus models both have two air input ports, while the S1 Pro has one air
input and one air output port on the bottom, meaning it only needs one external air intake vent.
For the S1 Pro the cold air comes in via the right-side vent, into the electronics case, and then
the warmed air exits from the hole in the bottom of the metal case helping to warm the air in
the enclosure.!
Is your Printer Customized?
#
If your printer is stock, then no customization is needed. If you have customized the printer,
you should examine any modifications to ensure they don't block the panels. If part of one of
the panels is blocked, you can use a laser or drill to customize one or more panels. This
should be done before removing the plastic or paper covers on the acrylic panels.
Cutting acrylic requires great care as the plastic is prone to crack if mishandled.
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Preparing the Printer!
Remove any filament from the hot end (which will require heating the hot end) and remove the
filament spool from the spool holder.!
Turn the printer offand unplug the power cable from the printer’s power supply. !
Don’t Panic If You See This!!
"
If you can’t see through the plastic, please
don’t panic! What you’re seeing is just the
plastic or paper protective covering.!
When plastic sheets are manufactured, they
are covered by either a paper (brown
colored) or plastic (white) covering to protect
against scratches. Follow the directions
below to remove the cover and discover the
beautiful plastic underneath. !
To remove the covering from an acrylic
panel, lay the panel flat on a table. Then peel
up a corner of the covering and CAREFULLY
and SLOWLY pull horizontally to the sheet to
reduce the lateral forces that would bend the
acrylic. This video shows just what to do. $
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Everything You Wanted to Know About Screwing But
Were Afraid to Ask
Screw
Tool Needed
Usage
Relative Size
30-50mm
Hex Cap
Head
3mm Hex Wrench
Attach fan/filter, attach large
front latch mounts
12mm Hex
Cap Head
3mm Hex Wrench
Connectors, hinges
16mm Hex
Cap Head
3mm Hex Wrench
Knobs, small latch mounts on
some models
#6 3/4” Wood
Screw
Philips Head
Screwdriver
Attach magnetic latch to mount
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How to Remove The Plastic or Paper Acrylic Panel Covering

The most confusing thing about assembling this enclosure will probably be which fastener or
screw to use. Luckily it's easy to figure out once you know the system. While the same screw
to use will be detailed in each section of the manual, you probably won't need to refer to it
once you know the secrets.!
The most common screw is the 12mm hex cap head screw. The 12mm screws are long
enough to attach things to the acrylic front, top, sides, and back. Each section will describe
exactly which screw to use, to read carefully, and use the specified screw for the best results. !
The actual length of the "long" screws to attach the fan and filter will vary depending on the
depth of the particular shipment of fans we happen to get that month. They will be easy to spot
since they'll be the longest thing in the bags.!
Finally, and we can’t stress this enough:!
D O N ’T O V E R T I G H T E N T H E S C R E W S
Leave the screws a little loose until the end adjustment phase. During that process, you’ll be
hand-tightening until the screws are snug, but you can easily use so much force on the plastic
pieces or the acrylic crack. Please don’t be that guy. $
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Top Left
Top Right
Bottom Left
Bottom Right

Assemble Panels
!
1. The Front Panel!
Each of the corners of the enclosure will be held
together by the connectors pictured below. Only
two versions, L and R, can be identified by the
letters stamped inside. The opposite connectors
are identical, i.e., the Bottom Right is the same as
Top Left. In all cases, the surface of the
connector with the cutout pattern faces front or
back.!
Note: The Ender 3 S1 Pro and Plus models will
not have a front vent as described earlier.!
The front door is designed so that the latches are on the left. Attach the corner
connectors on the back side of the door frame using the provided cap head 12mm
screws. See the photos below. The top of the connector should be flush with the top
of the acrylic.!
"
There are also smaller connectors at the top and right sides when viewed from the
front.
The front should look like the picture to the right.
Again, please note that the Ender 3 S1 Pro and Plus
models will not have a front vent. $
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Locate the magnetic latches and use the wood screws to attach them to the latch
mount, as shown below. The magnetic metal strips should be facing out of the
enclosure. Hand tighten only enough, so the magnetic latch doesn’t move, as the latch
will be later adjusted front-to-back to ensure the door is flush with the frame.!
#
!
Each latch mount is attached via three screws. Use the 30mm cap head to secure the
latch mount inside the door frame. You’ll use 2 M4 12mm screws to attach the latch
mount to the right-side panel later in the assembly. !
Attach the hinges to the outside door and door frame using M4 12mm screws and
nuts. There will be some play in the hole size so that you can adjust the door to swing
freely.!
Attach the doorknob by first inserting the square M4 nut into the
Wood Screws
Magnetic Latch
Latch Mount
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slot. Use a 14mm or 16mm cap head screw to attach the door.!
Now that the latches are mounted, it is time to connect the strike plates. Each plate
has a squishy adhesive covering the same size as the plate. Carefully attach the
adhesive side to the acrylic at the location of each latch. Then, adjust the width of the
metal strike plate so that it is held on by the pressure of the two sides of the plate. The
adhesive covering will keep the metal strike plate from scratching the acrylic. !
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2. Left Side Panel
Note: the ender 3 S1 Plus model has a vent on the left side, while the other two
models do not.
Attach the left side to the front forming an L-shape that will stand up on its own, then
attach one L and one R connector at the back. The Ender 3 S1 design technically
doesn’t need a door, but it allows for additional access to the extruder. The latch
mounts are smaller than the front, although the magnetic latch attaches in the same
way with wood screws. The parts for the side door will be in a separate packet.!
Attach the door hinges, latch mounts, strike plates, and
knob; the assembly will look like the illustration to the right.
Don’t forget the mid-panel connectors at the back, left,
and top.!
As with the front door, adjust how the door hangs by
loosening the hinge screws, using the strike plates to hold
the door to the latches, and then tightening the hinge
screws.!
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Note that the left side will also be the location of the fresh air intake vent, but that will
be installed after the enclosure is placed over the printer.!
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3. Back Panel
The back of the enclosure is shown below. The four corner connectors are mirror
images of the front. The large hole is either for an air filter (purchased separately) or
can be covered by the included plastic disc using M4 12mm screws. On the top and
each side are “mid panel corner connectors,” which are simple L-shapes. !
!
Ensure the fan is blowing air out of the enclosure
and NOT into it. Confirm the fan's direction by
plugging it into a USB power supply before
attaching the filter. The round label should be on
the outside.!
The fan should be attached to the outside of
the enclosure.
The fan should be oriented to pull air OUT of the
enclosure. !
Use the long screws included in the fan packet to
attach the fan. The length of the screws may change depending on the depth of this
particular shipment of fans.!
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The back panel also contains the removable grommet
cable portal. Locate the grommet and insert it into the
grommet holder. This is where you’ll insert the power
cable, USB cable, and wires you want to run in or out
of the enclosure.!
Insert the grommet holder/grommet combination into
the U-shaped hole in the right-side panel. This will
enable you to slide the enclosure offand onto the
printer without unplugging the cables.!
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4. Right Panel
!
Attach the right panel as shown above at each of the four corners. You can now
attach the latch mount on the front using 2 M4 12mm cap head screws.!
The new Ender 3 S1 has a different display that
inserts into a mounting platform and attaches via
the two corner connector screws on the right
panel. Rather than use the 12mm M4 screws as
before, you’ll use the longer 16mm M4 screws to
attach both the corner connector and the display
mount.!
The kit has a cable to attach the display to the
outside of the enclosure. The cable goes through
the enclosure in the slit, as shown to the right.!
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5. Top Panel
Before attaching the top, now is an
excellent time to insert the support beam.
It is a tad wider than the enclosure so that
it doesn’t fall out when moving the
enclosure.!
Use access through the doors to attach the top of the enclosure using M4 12mm
screws. You’ll also connect the top on the four corners to each mid-panel connector.
The slit is towards the front, and the small access hole for the filament runout sensor
cable should be on the right. The view on the right is from above, facing the front of
the printer.!
Attach the filament sensor to the L-
bracket using the silver screw supplied
with the printer to attach the sensor to
the Creality spool holder. !
Instead, you can use any spool holder
on top of the enclosure and run the
filament through the filament sensor and
directly to the extruder. Note: 3D
UPfitters spool holder not included.!
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6. Install Vents
It would help if you placed the enclosure over the 3D printer at this stage of assembly. !
The air vents for the Ender 3 S1 model are inserted outside and attached using M4
12mm screws. This will bring cold air to the air intake vent of the case, cooling the
electronics inside. Keeping the fan on the back panel running to help draw air through
the case’s vents and outside is essential, especially when printing PLA and PETG. !
If you forget to turn on the fan when printing PLA, your printer will probably clog. !
If that happens, use a 3D printer needle (available in many places online) to remove the
clog. This technique is easy and works most of the time. !
It is acceptable to turn offthe fan when printing ABS or ASA to bring the temperature
into the ideal range, but be sure to turn the fan back on when you’re finished,
especially if you are venting or filtering the air to remove VOCs.!
Note that the lid fits right into the vent slots, helping to form a seal. Slide the 3D printer
towards the front up against the vent. !
Model
Left Tray
Front Tray
Right Tray
Ender 3 S1
√
√
Ender 3 S1 Pro
√
Ender 3 S1 Plus
√
√
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The right tray is unique because it has a hole to fit around the rubber foot. As you
insert the tray, lift the printer's right side so that the tray slides under the square rubber
foot. This foot fits into the square hole in the vent.!
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7. Tighten Gaps
Once the enclosure is completely put together, it is time to ensure that each panel is
held tightly to each adjoining panel. The connectors are designed with a small amount
of play that allows you to make minor adjustments for the perfect fit. !
1. Loosen screws on the panel to move.!
2. Push that panel into place. You may need a friend to hold it tightly in the right spot.!
3. Re-tighten the screws to hold the panel. Only tighten enough to hold the pieces
snuggly. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! These parts are sturdy, but they’re still all made of
plastic.!
Repeat the process, going around the enclosure to ensure all panels are flush.!
8. Assemble Spool Holder
Instructions to assemble the spool holder are
available online in the product description, but it’s
not too hard to wing it. !
The location that will give the least resistance is
placing the spool holder directly to the printer's
left. However, many people who are low on
space put the spool holder on top, which
shouldn’t make too much of a difference in print
quality.!
Of course, if you don’t like this spool holder, you
can use whatever type of freestanding spool
holder you wish; hundreds of designs are
available on Thingiverse. !
The filament feeds into the extruder through
the gaps in the side doors.
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