Aerobeez YAK 54 User manual

Aerobeez 65″ Yak 54 Profile Step By Step Build Guide
Yak-54 Profile Build Log
Hello Aerobeez pilots and builders! This exciting YAK-54 Profile will be built around
the DLE-20 engine. Please take note that the build steps are that of our pro pilot Pete.
When building a profile ARF, there are several variations that can be taken. Such as
your engine choice, side to mount your ignition/fuel tank. There is no real set
method. Use your best judgment to see how the fuel tank and ignition placement will
fit best for your engine configuration. Also with profile builds, the covering on the
fuselage will need to be cut away in several areas to route wires, etc. Do not start
cutting all the covering away at the same time. Cut the covering for the area you are
working on then move on to the next step. We suggest doing this so that you do not cut
away an area that was not needed to be cut. Now let’s start the build!
TIP: DUBRO Super Strength Servo Arms are the best match for the Aerobeez Profile
ARF’s.
Depending on your engine of choice, determine what side your fuel tank and ignition
will be located. Once you have decided the location of both, use a bright flashlight to
expose the slots you will use.

Then, with a sharp hobby knife, cut away the covering for your ignition location.

On the right side of the fuselage, cut away the first area in front of the main wing tube,
the throttle servo slot and the two holes directly below the throttle servo for the
carbon fiber landing gear mount.
While you are working on other areas of the build, Pete always recommends using
thin CA on the engine mount area, this is known as “wicking” for those unfamiliar

with this process. Letting the thin CA absorb into the engine mount will help
strengthen the already strong mount.
Now, locate the components to build your landing gear so that we can get this Yak on
her wheels!

Use the larger washer on the threaded side of the wheel axle and attach the axle, and
wheel spat to the carbon fiber landing gear.
Use a small amount of blue thread lock on the set screw for the wheel collars. This will
keep the set screw from coming loose.

Notice the plastic spacer is on the inside of the wheel. The wheel collar on the outside
of the wheel.
Now install the carbon gear halves to the fuselage.

The perforated area on the wood in the horizontal stabilizer area will need to be
removed.

Use a hand saw and remove the small block section.

There are a few methods to center your horizontal stabilizer. We are using a simple
ruler. Insert the horizontal stabilizer and measure both sides from root to tip. When
you are satisfied with the position, use a marker along the side of the fuselage on the
stabilizer. Both top and bottom sides. (Important Note* Take notice the color of the
horizontal stabilizer on the top and the bottom. Due to this stabilizer being a fully
symmetrical surface and the covering’s similarity, you might glue the stabilizer in with
the wrong color showing on the top side. This is what occurred in our build. The
silver area is the bottom side. If you do make this mistake, your Yak will fly no
different at all. Even having the silver side up looks just fine!

Once you have marked both side, remove the stabilizer and carefully cut away and
peel off the covering on both the top and the bottom.

Insert the stabilizer into the fuselage and measure once more to make sure the
stabilizer is centered. When you are read with the location, use thin CA along the
stabilizer. This will “wick” the CA into the stabilizer and the fuselage. You will need to
repeat these steps a few times with the thin CA. When the top and bottom thin CA has

cured, use medium CA and go over the area once again with one thin bead. Allow to
cure completely.

Remove the covering on the control surface arm slots from the rudder and elevator.
Pete chose to mount the rudder servo on the right side and the elevator servo on the
left side of the fuselage. Be sure to remove the covering on the correct sides of the
control surfaces.
There are a few ways to install the control surface arms. It is always best to use a
rotary tool or 800 grit sandpaper and lightly scuff the arms on the side where they will
be glued to the surface. Pete uses 5 minute Epoxy as his adhesive of choice. However,
CA has been used by various pilots.

Glue the control surface arms to the elevator and rudder.
Use a drop of household oil on the pivot area of the hinges to prevent the epoxy from
adhering to the pivot area.

Now, using Epoxy, glue the hinges into the control surface.
Note: Glue only one side of the hinge at a time. Trying to epoxy both sides may result
in hinges not in the correct locations causing binding.
Once the elevator has been installed, you will need to match up the rudder hinge holes
and do a little drilling for the bottom hole.

(NOTE: Drill hole in the shown location)
Match that hole to the rudder and mark it so you can drill a hole on the rudder as well.
Then glue the hinges into the rudder side only. Let them dry before mounting the
other side into the tail of the fuse.

Now, locate and install the tail wheel assembly.

Once the tail wheel has been installed, cut the covering for elevator and rudder servo
bays. For this step we like to use this slit method. This allows the covering to be folded
over to the inside of the fuselage when the servo is installed.

Now let’s build the fuel tank!