1. Lay
the floor panel (A) in its desired position (remember to leave enough space
around the building for roof overhang and maintenance). It is essential the floor is
on a solid, level base, otherwise the building will not fit together properly. If the
floor is in two sections, fix together by nailing through the joining blocks (small
pieces of timber sticking out of one of the sections) using the 40mm nails. Place
the panels around the floor - it will help you understand how they fit together.
2. Position the plain gable end (B) on the back edge of the floor (the lip on the
bottom overhangs the floor). While your assistant holds the gable, place a plain
side (C) on the floor to form a corner. Making sure the panels are sitting flat on
the floor and are butted together, screw through the plain gable end into the side
from the inside using two of the screws provided.
3. Select the second plain side (C) and place it on the floor opposite the other one.
Screw to the plain gable end as before with two screws, again making sure the
sections are flat on the floor.
4. Before fitting the door gable (D), take the key out and unlock the door. Screw
the door gable to both sides from the inside as before.
Treat the underside of the floor if the building has been supplied untreated.
5. Check that the sides and gable ends are sitting flat on the floor. Screw the
panels to the floor using at least two screws per panel, ensuring that you screw
into a floor joist (follow the lines of nails in the floor to locate the joists).
6. Place the roof sections (E) on the building with the overhanging lip at the top on both
sections (at the apex). Before the next step, check that the roof is square and sitting flat on
the sides - if not it is possible the floor is not level and will need packing in one corner.
Strip 4 should now
comfortably overlap strips 1 and 3 - ensure it is folded over the apex and nail down both
sides every 100-150mm as before. Fold over the loose ends of the felt and nail into the
ends of the four pieces of roof framing (you will also have to nail the fascia boards into
these, and the finials into the top two) and also at least one nail into the ends of the roof
boards between the pieces of framing.
11. Glaze the shed by removing the beading pre-fitted to the windows, putting in a pane of
glass, then nailing the beading into place using panel pins. Do not push the beading too tight
against the glass or it will crack. We advise you wear protective gloves when handling glass.
7. Screw the two roof sections together and then secure it by nailing through the roof into the
framing on the sides and gable ends.
8. Felt the roof using the small clout nails provided. Start by carefully removing the paper
from the roll/rolls of felt, then roll them out on a flat surface. For the 604 and 705, cut it into
three equal strips (about 1333mm and 1733mm long respectively). For the 806, 1006 and
1008, cut the two rolls into four equal strips (2m, 2m and 2.6m long respectively). See felt
plan overleaf for reference for next part. Place the first strip on the roof so it overhangs each
end and approximately 50mm at the side, secure with three evenly spaced nails along the
upper edge (you will cover this over later with strip 3 or 4) then fold the 50mm overhang
over the side of the roof and nail every 100 - 150 mm along the edge of the roof framing,
working from the middle outwards. Repeat on the other side (strip 2). For models 604 and
705, place strip 3 along the middle of the roof so the overlap is equal either side, then nail
down both edges (through the other felt) every 100 - 150mm, again working from the middle
outwards. For models 806, 1006 & 1008, place strip 3 on the roof so it is overlapping strip 2
by approximately 150mm, secure at the top with three nails and at the bottom every 100-
150mm, nailing through strip 2 and working from the middle outwards.
Then
9. Open the trim pack and remove the four fascia boards. Nail them to the ends of the roof
framing so they meet in the middle and overhang at the bottom, then trim the felt if necessary
using a Stanley Knife. Nail on the diamond finials (J) at the apex (also into the ends of the
roof framing), covering where the fascia boards meet (it is best to pre-sink the nails first on a
flat surface so as not to split them).
10. Fix the corner strips (long narrow strips) to each outside corner using three nails per strip
(nail at an angle into the framing).
If your building has been supplied untreated, it requires treating straight away.
We recommend you re-treat your building within 6 months and from then on annually.
If you wish to maintain a similar colour, Albany Brown treatment can be ordered from your local
retailer in 5 litre tubs.
These instructions are meant as a guide only. We reserve the right to alter design without prior notice.
Thanks for buying an Albany shed. www.albanysheds.co.uk
For models 604, 705, 806, 1006, 1008
