ANK DAC 2.1 Signature Instructions for use

DAC2.1 Signature
Construction Manual
Version 6.11, June 2019
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1-613-822-7188

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Table of Contents
Section 1 —Introduction ……………………………………………..………………………….…………………… 6
1.1 About ANK Audio Kits ……………………………………………..………………………….…………………… 7
1.2 Basic Operation of the DAC ………………………………….………………………………..…………… 8
1.2.1 Overview ………………………………….……………………………………………..…………… 8
1.2.2 Component Placement ………………………………….……..……………………………………… 10
1.2.3 Block Diagram ………………………………………………………………………….……..…………… 11
1.3 Equipment ……………………………..…………………………………………………………………………… 12
1.3.1 Overview of the Kit ……………………………………………………….………….…………… 12
1.4 Tips and Suggestions …………………………………………………….………….…………………………… 12
1.4.1 Soldering …………………………………………………….……….……………………………… 12
1.4.2 Components ……………………….…………………………….……………………………………… 13
1.4.3 Resistor Sizes ……………………………………………….……….………………….………………… 13
1.4.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings ………………………………………… 13
1.4.5 Electrolytic Capacitors ………………………………………………………………………………… 13
1.4.6 Diodes ………………………………………….……………………………..………………………………… 14
1.4.7 Hardware/Mechanical ………………………………………………………………………………… 14
1.4.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning …………………………………………………………………… 14
1.4.9 Wire Color ……………………………………………………..……………….……………………… 15
1.4.10 Optional Finishing Touches …………………………..……………….……………………… 15
1.5 Build Process …………………………………………………………………………….…………………..………… 15
1.5.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your DAC …………………………… 15
1.5.2 Organization of this Manual ………………………………………………………..…….…… 16
1.5.3 Electrical Safety Warning …………………………………….…………………..………… 18
Section 2 —Mechanical Assembly and Initial Mains Transformer Wiring …… 19
2.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 19
2.2 Installing the Feet ……………………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 20
2.3 Installing the Choke …………………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 22
2.4 Installing the Chassis Ground ……………………………………………………………………..…….…… 26
2.5 Installing the IEC Socket and Rocker Switch …………………………………………..…….…… 27
2.6 Mains Transformer Preparation ……………………..……………………………………….…… 28
2.6.1 Attaching the Ground Lug …………………………………………………………………… 29
2.7 Configuring the Mains Primary Winding …................................………………………… 30
2.8 Initial Mains Secondary Wiring ………………………………………………………………………………… 34
2.9 Installing the Mains Transformer and AC Connections ………………………………………… 35

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Section 3 —M2 Power Supply Board ………………………………….…………………….…………… 41
3.1 Overview ………………………………………….…………………………………………………………….…… 41
3.2 Installing the Valve Bases …………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 43
3.3 Installing the Resistors ……………………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 45
3.4 Installing the 6V2 Wires…………………………………………………………..……………………………….…… 48
3.5 Installing the Capacitors ………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 50
3.6 Installing the Bridge Rectifier ……………………………………………………………….…..…..…….…… 51
3.7 Installing the Zener Diode …………………………………………………..……..….….…… 52
3.8 Filament Section ……………………………………………………………………………….………….…… 53
3.8.1 Installing the Regulators and Heatsinks …………………………………………...…………… 54
3.8.2 Installing the Remaining Capacitors …………………………………………...…………… 55
3.9 Additional Wiring …………………………………………………………………………………........….…… 57
3.9.1 Connecting to the Mains Transformer and Choke ……………….……………… 60
Section 4 —M2 Power Supply Testing ………………………………………………….….……………..…66
4.1 Installing the Mains Fuse ……………………………………………….…………...………………...…… 66
4.2 Installing the LED Indicator ……………………………………………………………...……………….…… 67
4.3 Installing the Tubes …………………………………………………………………………….…………..….…… 67
4.4 Tidying Up …………………………………………………………………………….……………………..…….…… 67
4.5 Ohm Check ………………………………………………………………………………………..……..………...…… 68
4.6 Electrical Testing …………………………………………………………………………………..………..…… 68
4.7 Voltage Check Summary ……………………………………………………………………..…….…….…71
4.7.1 DC Voltage Checks ……………………………………………………………………..………..…… 71
4.7.2 AC Voltage Checks ……………………………………………………………………..…….…….…71
4.8 Last Steps ………………………………………………………………………………………………..…….…….… 71
Section 5 —Digital Power Supply Board ……………………………………………………….……………… 72
5.1 Overview ………………………………………………………………………………………..…………..…….…… 72
5.2 Parts List ………………………………………………………………………………………..…………..…….…… 73
5.3 Construction ………………………………………………………………………………….….……………..…….…… 74
5.4 Installing the LEDs ………………………………………………………………………...………..……..….…… 74
5.5 Installing the Capacitors ……………………………………………………………………..……………… 75
5.6 Installing the Schottky Diodes ………………………………………………………..…………………………… 77
5.7 Installing the Resistors …………………………………………………………..…………………………..…….…… 78
5.8 Installation and Wiring ………………………………………………………………..……………………..…….…… 79

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Section 6 —Analog Board ……………………………………………………………..………………………….….……… 83
6.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………………………..………..…… 83
6.2 Installing the Valve Bases ………………………………………………………………………..………..…… 84
6.3 Installing the Resistors …………………………………………………………………………..……..……..…….…… 86
6.4 Installing the Capacitors …………………………………………………………………..…..…..…….…… 87
6.5 Final Checks ……………………………………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 89
Section 7 —Analog Board Filament and HT …………………………….………………… 90
7.1 Filament Wiring ………………………………………………………………………..……………………..…… 92
7.2 HT Wiring …………………………………………………………………………………………………..…….…….…92
Section 8 —Installing the Digital DAC Board …………………………………………………..………… 93
8.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………………………………..….….…… 93
8.2 Installation ……………………………………………………………………………………………………..….….…… 96
Section 9 —Finishing the Interwiring of the Digital DAC Board ……………..……… 97
Section 10 —Installing the I/V Transformers ……………………………………………………..……… 99
10.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………………………………..……..…… 99
10.2 Installing the I/V Transformers …………………………………………………………………………..……..…… 100
10.3 Wiring the I/V Transformers …………………………………………………………………………..……..…… 101
Section 11 —Installing the Rear Faceplate and Connectors ……………..……...............…. 103
11.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 103
11.2 Installing the Rear Faceplate ………………………………………………………………………………………. 104
11.3 Installing the Input Selector Switch …………………………………………………………………………. 105
11.4 Installing the Other Connectors …………………………………………………………………………. 106
11.5 Input Connections ……………………………………………………………………………………………………. 108
11.5.1 Connecting the S/PDIF (RCA) Input ……………………………………………………………. 109
11.5.2 Connecting the USB Input …………………………………………………………………………. 110
11.5.3 Connecting the XLR Input …………………………………………………………………………. 112
Section 12 —Wiring the Output Connections ………………..…………………………..……………… 113
12.1 Wiring the Output Connections ………………………………………………………………………………………. 113
Section 13 —Turn-on Procedure ……………………………………………………………………….. 115
13.1 Turn-on .......................................................................................................................................... 115
13.2 Debugging .......................................................................................................................................... 116

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Section 14 —Finishing Touches ……………………..………………………….…………………….…...………… 117
14.1 Installing the Front Faceplate ………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 117
14.2 Installing the LED ……………………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 117
14.3 Installing the Chassis Top ………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 117
Section 15 —Final Thoughts ……………………..………………………….…………………….…...………… 118
15.1 Congratulations ……………………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 118
15.2 System Configuration Options ………………..…….……………………………………………….…...………… 118
15.3 Cables …………………………………..………………………….……………………………………………….…...………… 119
15.4 Tube Rolling ……………………..………………………….……………………………………………….…...………… 119
15.4.1 6922 ……………………..…………………..……….………………………..……………………...…………… 119
15.4.2 6X5 and ECL82 ……………………..………………………………………………………….…….…………… 119
15.5 Thanks ……………………..…………………………………………………..……………….…………….………………….… 120
Appendix ……………………………………………..……………………………………………………..….……….……….…… 121
A.1 World Mains Voltages Wiring Diagrams …………………………………………….…..…….…… 122
A.2 Resistor Color Code Reference ……………………………………………………………………….…..…….…… 128

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Section 1
Introduction
Thanks for purchasing the ANK Audio Kits DAC 2.1 Signature. Our goal is to provide you with
the highest quality kit that you will build from scratch with these instructions.
This is very high end and sophisticated piece of audio equipment that will surely become a
showpiece of your sound system. We're excited that you have chosen to join us in enjoying and
appreciating superb audio and we've created this manual to help guide you through each step
of the assembly process with as much detail and clarity as possible. To facilitate the build
process, the manual has been divided into a number of sections, each focusing on a separate
aspect of the system: follow the sections in order and we guarantee you not only a problem-
free experience, but a pleasant time doing so. If you are new to building kits, or if at any time
you feel as though you need help or advice, feel free to contact us and we will do whatever it
takes to get you on the right track.

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1.1 About ANK Audio Kits
Audio Note (UK) started out in the early '90s developing several DIY audio kits while they were
building up their finished product business. DIY Audio has a long history and it was an
opportunity for knowledgeable customers to take advantage of world class designs and
components. Audio Note (UK) was focused on using the very finest materials and components
custom-made to their specifications, across their entire product line —from custom film and
electrolytic capacitors to tantalum resistors, transformers, binding posts, wires, etc. The Kit1
300B Single Ended integrated amplifier was born during development of the Meishu and it
proved to be extremely popular worldwide. The ANKit business was born!
As the finished product business and dealer network started to flourish, Audio Note (UK)
eventually moved the kit business off into a separate division; thus, in 2004, Audio Note Kits
started up and was supported by a website so that customers not located near Audio Note (UK)
dealers could order kits and have them shipped direct. Kit development continued in earnest
during the 2000s with development assisted by Audio Note (UK) engineering. Audio Note (UK)
parts were used throughout the kits, depending on the various levels and budgets. By 2013,
ANK Audio Kits (as it came to be called) had developed a wide product range covering all areas
of two channel audio: a single-ended 300B product line, an EL34 and EL34 classAB and single-
ended product line, digital to analog converters, pre-amplifiers, Phono stages, and Audio Note
(UK) speaker kits. The end result today is that customers worldwide with DIY skills can now
build an entire high end audio system to their liking. With the introduction of higher levels in
2013 and the release of the Level 5 Mentor Pre-amplifier and the DAC 5.1 Signature, some
customers wanted these high end products assembled by a professional builder. As a result,
ANK Audio Kits began offering this service for Level 4 and 5 products so that a significant
investment in a kit could be turned into a work of art! Since ANK Audio Kits was born in 2004,
over 2,500 kits have been shipped to customers worldwide. Clearly, there is a real demand for
high end audio kits and ANK Audio Kits has been delivering the goods now for 15 years.
We believe and hope that you will have a great experience building your kit and we look
forward to hearing from you about your experience.
Regards,
Brian Smith —Director ANK Audio Kits

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1.2 Basic Operation of the DAC
1.2.1 Overview
The ANK Audio Kits DAC 2.1 is one of our longest running products with a significant following.
Originally developed as the DAC 2.1A and DAC 2.1B variants, we now have concentrated
production on the upgraded variant that is now known as simply the DAC 2.1 Signature. The
DAC 2.1 Signature offers velvet smooth operation with no digital artifacts or treble edge.
Following the Audio Note (UK) tradition of non-oversampling resistor ladder architecture (R-
2R) pure digital to analog conversion method, it hard-wires digital information directly to
output voltage.
The DAC 2.1 Signature boasts numerous features and supports up to 24/96kHz data and
sampling widths. The DAC has the very high quality M2 Power Supply (6X5 rectified and ECL82
regulated) for ultimate smoothness and, to complete the pure digital to analog design, the
Digital DAC board has no analog filtering (which has been completely removed) with no digital
artifacts for a smooth-as-velvet output. Even though the DAC 2.1 Signature is our lowest priced
DAC, this enhanced variant —with its upgraded power supply, Audio Note (UK) tantalum non-
magnetic resistors, and Audio Note (UK) Copper Foil Capacitors —hits well above its price
point and is a true audiophile DAC in its own right.
Design Elements
Audio Note (UK) realized at a very early stage that when it comes to the digital-to-analog
conversion phase, simplest was best. Although many manufacturers' DACs may measure well
on the test bench using upsampling or oversampling techniques, the Audio Note (UK) method of
no oversampling (also referred to as 1x Oversampling), direct-from-disk technique simply
sounds better. This method means that no digital filtering is performed on our DACs. What's
more, analog filtering has also been eliminated from our designs to yield yet another
improvement over the accepted (Delta-Sigma) norm.
Delta-Sigma DACs and R-2R resistor ladder DACs are quite different. Rather than using
feedback loops and high frequency oversampling clocks to produce an approximation of the
digital data as Delta-Sigma types do, an R-2R DAC will turn on each required bit in the digital
'word' and the precise amount of current will flow from the chip to reconstruct the analog
waveform. This method is simple, elegant, and perfect, and its true representation of the
digital data is reflected in the uncompromised sound quality. The DAC 2.1 Signature digital
board comes fully assembled and includes a digital input transformer.

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Further, the DAC 2.1 Signature's I/V transformers couple and maximize energy transfer during
the current-to-voltage phase of the conversion from the digital converter to the analog section,
resulting in increased dynamics. These transformers were specially designed by Audio Note
(UK) engineering.
The Analog (6922) board features Audio Note (UK) non-magnetic tantalum resistors and Audio
Note (UK) Copper Foil Capacitors. An efficient and effective line stage complements the digital
and power supply sections of the DAC, sounds very undigital and has a lovely natural sound.
Our highly acclaimed and upgraded M2 Power Supply is an enhanced PCB version of the
original M2 Power Supply taken from Audio Note (UK)’s finished products line. It uses a Mains
transformer and Choke combination with a 6X5 for tube rectification and an ECL82 for
regulation of its HT supply It also provides two solid-state filament supplies. This latest
version uses vertical heatsinks, Mundorf MLytic capacitors, Rubycon electrolytics, and
Takman 1W resistors. We believe the M2 Power Supply provides an excellent quality / value
ratio —it has also proved itself in terms of both its reliability and sonic virtues many times
over in our other product lines. In addition, we have a dedicated digital power supply board to
ensure the sensitive digital circuits are fed with a smooth and quiet supply of power.

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1.2.2 Component Placement
Here’s a completed DAC 2.1 Signature

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1.2.3 Block Diagram
The graphic below shows the block diagram overview of how the DAC works:

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1.3 Equipment
Here is the list of equipment that will be required:
Philips screwdriver
A pair of quality wire strippers
A large, organized work area
Soldering iron station with wet sponge
Lead-based solder (4% Silver is recommended)
1.3.1 Overview of the Kit
In your kit you will find a series of kit bags containing all the hardware, wire, and parts for the
associated sections of the amplifier. See the Parts List files on the disk to match up the parts in
the kit bags with the lists. There is also a Master list for the kit.
1.4 Tips and Suggestions
We have learned a lot about kit building over the last decade from our customers and I'd like to
share some tips with you to ensure a successful project. Please read through this section
thoroughly, it will give you a good idea of what's ahead and help ensure your success!
1.4.1 Soldering
We highly recommend using lead-based solder with some silver content1on the build. You
should use lead-free ONLY if you are experienced using it and confident. Lead-free solder
requires a higher melting temperature and thus is more difficult to use. We don’t recommend
lead-free solder for first-time builders.
We suggest that you practice your soldering before starting on the kit. Feel free to request
practice parts with your kit so that you can practice tinning wires and making nice solder
joints. The key is a good soldering station with a sponge, the right temperature, a good size tip,
and experience; remember, tips can wear out so make sure your tip is working. (You can also
check out YouTube videos for soldering lessons and examples.) The solder should flow freely; if
it’s forming balls then there is likely a problem with the tip, the temperature, or (sometimes)
the surface. Feel free to contact us for help!
1For example, WBT-0800.

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1.4.2 Components
Using the Ohm setting on your multimeter is very useful when building a kit. It's a good,
practical way of measuring resistors and continuity and is much easier than reading the color
codes on the side. (With practice, the color codes can also be a good way to determine the
resistance, but that method is better left to experienced builders.)
1.4.3 Resistor Sizes
Resistors today, particularly metal film resistors, are often smaller than you might expect. It
used to be that the difference between a 1/2W and a 1W resistor was obvious: the 1W was
considerably larger. That way of looking at things sometimes now no longer applies. Please be
assured that all resistors supplied with ANK Audio Kits are rated at least per the specified
wattage: in some cases, a higher than specified wattage may be supplied.
1.4.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings
Occasionally, depending on parts availability, we may use capacitors from different
manufacturers. These will always be of equal or higher quality! As a result, some of the
pictures in the manual may look a bit different at times. With regard to voltage ratings,
normally, the voltage rating of the supplied capacitors will be exactly what you see on the
parts lists. Occasionally, a part may be supplied with a higher voltage. Think nothing of it!
1.4.5 Electrolytic Capacitors
For those who have not built a piece of electronics before, here is a little lesson on capacitors.
There are basically two types of capacitors that we use in the kits: electrolytic and signal
capacitors. Of these, electrolytic capacitors require special attention. Electrolytic capacitors
are “polarized,” which means they have a POSITIVE (+) and a NEGATIVE (–) lead and typically
have values like 100uf 450V, 10uf 160V, or 470uf 35V. These capacitors need to be installed
correctly or else they will possibly blow up at some point!
Each electrolytic capacitor will have a wide stripe on the NEGATIVE side. Always ensure that
this stripe (NEGATIVE) is positioned correctly. There are several keys on a printed circuit
board to help you to know how to position the capacitor:
1. There may be a "+" on the board indicating where to position the POSITIVE lead.
2. The segmented half of the circular stencil on the board shows where to position the
NEGATIVE lead. The unsegmented ('half-moon') part of the circle is where the POSITIVE
lead goes.
3. The POSITIVE lead goes to a square solder pad while the NEGATIVE lead goes to a round
solder pad.

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1.4.6 Diodes
When installing diodes note that they are oriented with a stripe — match the stripe on the
diode with the banding (||) stencil on the board.
1.4.7 Hardware/Mechanical
Not all of us are mechanically oriented. So, the kit is well laid out such that all the hardware is
provided and bagged in individual sections, so things should make sense. Start thinking
mechanically because about a third of the kit is mechanical. The first thing to remember is
that good hardware is beautiful: we use all stainless steel metric hardware in the kits. It truly
is a thing of beauty: don’t rush your hardware! Here are a few helpful things to understand:
We use British metric hardware (M3, M4, M5, screw size 10mm, 15mm, etc..) as opposed
to the American imperial system (5/1000th or 50/1000th, 1 inch, 3/4 inch). Please
familiarize yourself with the hardware in the kit.
The screws will be called M3 or M4, which is the diameter of the shaft. The length of the
shaft will be in millimeters, so you will encounter things like an M4 screw 16mm, a PAN
head screw (which is a round spherical head), or a COUNTERSUNK or FLAT head screw
(a screw head that needs to be flush with a surface —for example, under a
transformer). So if you are asked to use an M3 16mm CSK screw, this is an M3 size
(obviously), which is a thinner shaft diameter than an M4; 16mm is the length of the
shaft; and the head type is CSK, which is a countersunk or flat head screw.
Once you have the screws mastered, look at the matching nuts such as M4 nut or M3 nut
and corresponding washers.
Standoffs are common in the kits (again, they are either M3 or M4 size, with different
lengths). They are typically threaded, so the screw goes into them.
If any of the hardware is confusing or something is not fitting right, please email us.
1.4.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning
When it comes to wires, we typically use 18 gauge (thicker) and 22 gauge in the kits. It's PTFE:
Teflon silver-plated copper wire. Basically this is classed as hook-up wire; we typically twist
wire for you when it needs to be. The other wire we use is called shielded cable, like an AN-A
(Audio Note (UK)) for signals. This is two-conductor wire: one is for the signal and the other (a
big ground braid wrapped around the signal wire) is the shielding, which helps prevent the
cable from picking up noise. You should practice stripping some 18g or 22g wire, and then try
tinning this wire; this is the process of adding solder to the bare wire so that the invisible
coating on the wire is burned off. This makes for easy soldering to a PCB, an RCA connector, or
a transformer terminal. So it's a good idea to practice this a little before starting the kit.

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1.4.9 Wire Color
In the earlier sections of this manual, particularly those sections dealing with the Mains
transformer and Choke wires, the colors of the wires should match the color of the wires in
your kit. If they don't, or if you're unsure about things, contact [e-mail].
Later on, at the Interwiring stage, there may be some differences between the descriptions (or
pictures) of the color of wires that you will connect and the color of the wires supplied with
your kit; for example, depending on inventory, we may supply a Black–Red twisted pair instead
of a Green–Red (or vice-versa). Don't worry! Just be sure to check the wiring diagrams
carefully and connect the correct points together and all will be well!
1.4.10 Optional Finishing Touches
From time to time we get asked about some of the build details of the ANK Finished Products
that you can see in the pictures in the "Assembled Kits Gallery!" (https://ankits.smugmug.com/)
on our website. It's important to understand that these stunningly beautiful products were
done by an accomplished professional builder with decades of experience and that some
particulars of the build may be beyond most of us. However, experienced builders who want to
incorporate some of these finishing touches should feel free to do so. While we don't officially
support or supply parts for these optional enhancements, there's no reason why you couldn't
or shouldn't do them if you want to and feel that you can handle them. Without getting into the
details (you're on your own here), what you'll want to get hold of are: heatshrink (to bundle
wires), cable ties (to secure large capacitors), stacked (male/female) standoffs and cable
clamps (to elevate and secure signal cables), and cable sleeving. You can get some of these
from your local hardware store (for example, 1/4" Cable Clamps) and other, more specialized,
parts from online distributors such as Grainger, Digi-Key, Mouser, or Cable Ties and More. If
you do decide to dress your build with some of these, please send us a picture or two. We'd love
to see what you did!
1.5 Build Process
1.5.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your DAC
1) Take your time, prepare, and try and work on a small task each time you start to build
the kit.
2) Instead of rushing through another section —use the end of your session to check your
work. Always ask yourself if the step you are performing makes sense.
3) Have fun with your build and savour the experience. Take the time to do a really good
job!
4) Feel free to contact us via email [e-mail] if you have any questions
or suggestions during your build —and feel free to send us pictures, etc. We'd be
pleased to give you tips along the way.

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1.5.2 Organization of this Manual
We have divided the build and the manual into the following sections:
1. Introduction
2. Mechanical Assembly and Initial Mains Transformer Wiring
3. M2 Power Supply
4. M2 Power Supply Testing
5. Digital Power Supply Board
6. Analog Board
7. Analog Board Filament and HT
8. Installing the Digital DAC Board
9. Interwiring the Digital DAC Board
10. Installing the I/V Transformers
11. Installing the Rear Faceplate and Connectors
12. Wiring the Output Connections
13. Turn-on Procedure
14. Finishing Touches
15. Final Thoughts
Appendix

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Here's another way of looking at how the manual is organized and how the sections fit into the 'big
picture': the main sections are mapped so that they mirror how the components will be positioned in the
DAC chassis:

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1.5.2 Electrical Safety Warning
Please be aware of proper electrical safety.
There are sufficient voltages in this kit to give you a very nasty and harmful shock, so be
careful when powering on, debugging, and probing around.
Please contact ANK Audio Kits via phone or email ([e-mail])to discuss any
precautions necessary when building the kit if you feel unsure about what you are doing at
any stage of the build.

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Section 2
Mechanical Assembly and Initial Mains Transformer Wiring
2.1 Overview
In this section we will install the feet, IEC socket, rocker switch, and the Choke, as well as make
the important initial connections to the Mains transformer and install it in the chassis.
When you receive the kit you will have a series of kit bags. In the following sections we'll be
using the:
Hardware bag (made up of individual bags for each section of the kit)
IEC bag (containing the Rocker Switch, IEC and premade cables, fuses, etc.)

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2.2 Installing the Feet
Let's start by installing the feet on the chassis —this will make it easier to work with as we
install the transformers, Choke, etc.
Turn the chassis upside down.
Take a foot and insert an M4 screw with washer into the foot —it’ll be tight but push it in.
Install each foot in the hole in the chassis closest to the corner and secure it with an M4 nut
on the inside of the chassis. Don't overtighten the screw; you could damage the foot.