Arexx DLR ASURO Installation and operating instructions

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ASURO - 1
ASURO
ROBOT KIT
Licence by DLR
Manufacturer
AREXX, Zwolle - NETHERLANDS
JAMA, Taichung - TAIWAN
www.arexx.com
Assembly and Operation MANUAL
Model ARX-03
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©
DLR Germany and AREXX - The Netherlands
© DLR Germany and AREXX - The Netherlands ©

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WARNING
* When you open the parts the return right will be disposed
* Read before you start assembly the instruction manual
* Be careful with tools
* Keep this product out of reach of children and do not build this kit when children are in
the neighbourhood, the tools and parts are dangerous for children
* Check the polarity of the batteries
* Keep the batteries dry, when the ASURO gets wet remove the batteries and let the
ASURO dry for some time
* Remove the batteries when you are not using the ASURO for a longer period
Introduction
ASURO is a mobile mini-robot, completely programmable in C and especially developed for education
at the German Aerospace Centre DLR, department for Robotics and Mechatronics. Assembly is easy
for experienced electronic technicians and feasible for a novice. Except for the printed circuit boards
(PCB) only standard parts for assembly will be used.
For programming we use freeware only. Therefore ASURO is exceptionally suitable as an introduction
into processor-controlled hobby electronics, for projects in schools and universities, for studies and
adult education centres. Special tools, which are freeware for private users, have been used for all
electronic development phases and software design, proving how robots can be designed without
using expensive tools or machines.
ASURO is equipped with a RISC-processor and two independently controlled motors, an optical line-
tracer, six collision-detector switches, two odometer-sensors, three optical displays and an infrared-
communication set for programming and remote control by a PC (see  g. 0.1).
The Caution-symbol signalizes paragraphs with warnings, to be studied intensively, to
prevent damage to components or personal health.
We must inform all users, ASURO is no toy and is not to be handed out to children under the age of
three years, as they may swallow the dozens of small components.
Please provide some batteries and start the assembly!
And yes: ASURO is another way of saying: “Another Small and Unique Robot from Oberpfaffenhofen!”
© DLR & AREXX
Oberpfaffenhoven 2004
Jan Grewe
Robin Gruber
WWW.DLR.DE
WW.AREXX.COM
Fig. 0.1 ASURO blockdiagram
Fig. 0.1 ASURO blockdiagram
(see also appendix E)
(see also appendix E)

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CONTENTS
I. Mechanics 6
1. Necessary tools 6
2. Mechanical preparations 7
2.1. Motorpinion 7
2.2. Table-tennis ball 7
2.3. Axles 8
2.4. Wheelsenors 8
II. Electronics 9
3. Soldering instructions 9
3.1. Tip, solder and temperature 9
3.2. Preparing parts 10
3.3. Soldering parts 11
3.4 De-soldering 12
4. Electronic assemly 13
4.1. Assembly RS232-Infrared-Transceiver 13
4.2. Optional USB-Infrared-Transceivers 15
4.3. Assembly ASURO-PCB 16
4.4. Attachment of the motors 20
4.5. Power supply 20
5. Preparation for operation 21
5.1. RS232-Infrared-Transceiver 21
5.2. USB-Infrared-Tranceiver 22
5.2.2. Linux 23
5.3. ASURO operation 24
5.3.1. Display-elements 25
5.3.2. Phototransistors (T9, T10) 25
5.3.3. Switches 26
5.3.4. Odometrie 26
5.3.5. The engine 26
5.3.6. IR interface 26
5.3.7. READY? 27

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6. Trouble shooting 28
6.1. Failure of RS232-IR-Transceiver ! 28
6.1.1. Activated key and displayed symbol do not match 28
6.1.2. The Terminal-Programm does not display any symbol 28
6.1.3. Still not working 28
6.2. USB-Infrared-Tranceiver does not work 28
6.3. Back-LEDs (D15,D16) glimmen nach dem Einschalten nicht! 28
6.3.1. Back-LEDs do not glow at start up 29
6.3.2. Only one of the back LEDs is glowing 29
6.3.3. Status-LED (D12) is not activated biocolored after start up 29
6.4. A display does not work 29
6.4.1. Status-LED D12 does not work 29
6.4.2. Front-LED D11 does not work 29
6.4.3. Left Back-LED D15 does not work 30
6.4.4. Rigth Back-LED D16 does not work 30
6.5. Linentracer (T9, T10) does not work 30
6.6. A switch does not work 30
6.6.1. Obviously a combination of switches has been activated 31
6.6.2. Display reacts if switches have been interchanged 31
6.6.3. Things still do not work well 31
6.7. The re ected light-sensor (odometer) does not work 31
6.7.1. None of the re ected light-sensors work 31
6.7.2. The left re ected light-sensors does not work 31
6.7.3. The left re ected light-sensors does not work 31
6.8. One motor does not move 32
6.8.1. Both motors do not move 32
6.8.2. Left motor does not move or only in one direction 32
6.8.3. Right motordoes not move or only in one direction 32
6.8.4. One motor rotates in reversed direction 32
6.9. IR-interface 32
6.9.1. ASURO does not send symbols 32
6.9.2. ASURO does not receive symbols 32
6.9.3. Things still do not work well 33
7. Final adjustments 34

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III. Software 35
8. Software installation and initial steps 35
8.1. WINDOWS 35
8.1.1 Installation Flash - the ASURO-Programmer-Tool 35
8.1.2 Installation of the editor and compiler 35
8.1.3. Example programs 39
8.2. LINUX 51
8.2.1. Installation Flash - the ASURO-Programmer-Tool 51
8.2.2. Compiler 52
8.3. Working with Flash 53
8.4. Flash failures 54
8.5. First step in Programming 54
9. C for ASURO 56
9.1. Basics in C-Programmierung 56
9.1.1. Introduction 56
9.1.2. Variables and datatypes 57
9.1.3. Compilerdirektives 59
9.1.4. Conditions 59
9.1.5. Loops 61
9.1.6. Functions 62
9.1.7. pointers and vectors 64
9.2. Overview of the ASURO functions 65
9.2.1. void Init(void) 66
9.2.2. void StatusLED (unsigned char color) 66
9.2.3. void FrontLED (unsigned char status) 67
9.2.4. void BackLED (unsigned char left, unsigned char right) 67
9.2.5. void Sleep (unsigned char time72kHz) 67
9.2.6. void MotorDir (unsigned char left_dir, unsigned char right_dir) 67
9.2.7. void MotorSpeed (unsigned char left_speed, unsigned char right_speed) 68
9.2.8. void SerWrite (unsigned char *data, unsigned char length) 68
9.2.9. void SerRead (unsigned char *data, unsigned char length, unsigned int timeout) 68
9.2.10. void LineData (unsigned int *data) 69
9.2.11. void OdometrieData (unsigned int *data) 70
9.2.12. unsigned char PollSwitch (void) 71
IV. Appendices 72
A. Partlist 72
B. Diagram ASURO 74
C. RS-232 IR Transceiver 75
D. USB IR-Transceiver 76
E. Blockdiagram ASURO 77
F. Blockdiagram PIC Processor 77
G. Contents ASURO KIT 78

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Part I. Mechanics
1. Necessary tools
In order to build the ASURO we need – apart from the kit – the following tools:
• A „third hand“
• Stanley-Knife
• Small hammer
• Sandpaper (for  ne work, Nr. 240)
• Long nose plier for electronic work
• Cutter for electronic cable work
• Soldering iron for electronic work (approx. 20-30 W) or a soldering station
• Solderwire (1 mm) for electronic work, optionally leadfree
• Desoldering wick (2-3 mm width), just in case solder has to be removed from the print
• Glue (either an instant 1-component glue, a bicomponent glue or a hot glue pistol)
• Computer: a laptop or personal computer (operated with Windows or Linux)
• Optionally: a multimeter
* For the optional USB IR-Transceiver you may need an USB cable A to B
Figure 1.1:
Necessary tools

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2. Mechanical Preparations
Completeness of the kit must be checked  rst. A parts list in appendix A has been provided
as a checklist. Before doing any electronic artwork, we must however do some mechanical
preparations. So let’s start working.
2.1. Motorpinion
Motor power is to be transmitted to the gear by small cogwheels (with drilling holes of 1.9 mm),
which have to be pressed onto the motor axles. Place the rounded side of the cogwheel on a  at
surface and press the motor axle gently into the drilling hole of the cogwheel without using too
much force. You may use a small hammer to press the axle of the motor fully into the cogwheel, by
placing the cogwheel on a weaker surface ( eg. cardboard) and applying the hammer gently to the
backside axle of the motor (see  g. 2.1).
Alternatively you may press the cogwheel to the motor axle by using the benchvice. Take care to
press the axle and not to apply any force to the case or the bearings.
Fig. 2.1.: Motorpinion assembly
2.2. Table-tennis ball
ASURO has been designed to slide on the halve of a table-tennis ball, which has to be prepared.
The best way to do this is to take a complete ball and to cut it in two halves with a saw or a
Stanleyknife. The cutting edges can be cleaned up with a  le or sandpaper.
That’s all!
Fig. 2.2. Table-tennis ball
Do not use electrical aids like an electrical saw or electrical knife.
Table-tennis balls may be set a re very easily.
Mechanics

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2.3. Axles
Axles are manufactured from a brass rod. Two pairs of axles are needed, each with a length of
24.5 mm and 42.0 mm respectively. These axes are suplied in correct length with this kit.
2.4. Wheel sensors
The odometer, consisting of a light emitting diode and a phototransistor, looks forward to the black
and white markers on the 50/10 cogwheel.
A complete set of adhesive odometer markers is supplied with this kit. Place them on to the
50/10 gear as shown in  g. 2.3. Using the sensor-markers with 6 black and white segments is
recommended for compatibility for compatibility with other ASURO’s (demo programs).
The more segments you draw, the better the cogspeed may be registrated and the better speed
control will work. However, a great number of segments reduces the difference between light and
dark (see  g.2.4).
 g. 2.4.: Examples for the cogwheel markers
You now have completed the mechanical preparations.
Take a short break ...
We will now continue with the electronics.
Mechanics
 g. 2.3.:
RECOMMENDED
cogwheel markers

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Part II. Electronics
3. Soldering instructions
ASURO has been designed with wired parts (in contrast to the much smaller surface mounted
devices). Fig. 3.1
demonstrates the smallest available package for the ASURO processor IC and
the wired device we have incorporated. The chip inside these devices however is the same!
Although soldering wired devices is much more comfortable and easier, especially untrained
persons have to consider some precautions.
Of course the printed circuit board must be unplugged at any time while soldering.
Switching off is not enough !!
REMOVE batteries
and power supplies!!!
3.1. Tip, solder and temperature
Fig. 3.2
demonstrates
the basics for soldering. The hot spot of the soldering equipment should
reach ca. 360ºC with lead-solder and ca. 390ºC for lead-free solder, while soldering axles may
be done at higher temperatures (420ºC). Electronics are to be soldered with a miniature tip, while
axles must be soldered with a larger tip area.
Use a slightly humid soldering sponge and apply some solder to the hot soldering tip. Shortly
before using soldering equipment, for the  rst time or after a break, old solder must be removed by
wiping off soldering remains from the tip.
Do use solder for electronic work with a diameter of 0.8 or 1 mm.
Fig. 3.1.: Comparison of the largest and smallest case in which the ATmega8L chip is available.

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Fig. 3.2.: Basics for soldering
While soldering, some smoke will be generated which may cause damage to your health.
Avoid breathing gases or work under a cooker hood. Using solder for non-electronic use and
using resins may destroy components.
3.2. Preparing parts
While soldering small parts you will need some tricks and tips to reach the soldering area. When
you already have soldered before you already may have noticed that there is always one hand
short (a tool called third hand can solve a part of this problem).
Some parts (transistors, LEDs, ICs, switches, capacitors and jumper) are already prepared to  t
into the PCB (printed circuit board), but diodes and resistors have to be prepared to do so.
Resistors are to be placed vertically in ASURO. To do so, one leg remains in its original position,
the other one is to be bent 180 degrees. Bending must de done at a curvature of 2.5 mm diameter
at a distance of a few millimeters from the resistor body to avoid damage to the part.
Diodes are inserted for horizontal position. To do so both legs have to be bent (eg. by pincers) at a
distance to  t into the holes of the PCB.
Processor IC1 ATmega, IC3 CD4081and the IR-receiver IC2 SFH5110-36 are sensitive to
ESD (electrostatic damage). They may be damaged by simply touching or even reaching for
these parts if you have been charged with electricity (eg. by walking on a carpet).
Before handling these parts you should discharge yourself with a discharging bracelet,
connected to ground or at least by touching a grounded heater system or a metallic case of
equipment.
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DANGEROUS END !

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Fig. 3.3 : Parts with bended legs
Fig.
3.4:
Creating a neat soldering connection
3.3. Soldering parts
After preparing the legs, parts are to be  tted in the metallized holes of the printed circuit board
(PCB) and – for parts with only two or three legs – to be spread. Bending the leg at the backside
of the PCB will prevent parts from falling down. For parts with more legs – eg. the sockets for ICs
– bending two opposite legs on a diagonal line will suf ce completely.
After  xing a part, apply some heat with the soldering tip to the leg and the soldering pad
simultaneously. At the same time you will have to add a small quantity of solder. While melting, the
solder will  ow into the metallized hole. Add some more solder until the hole is  lled completely
(see  g. 3.4).
Now remove the solder and then the soldering iron. Do not move the part or the
PCB until the connection has chilled and become rigid. Moving parts while chilling will result in
unreliable contacts, causing intermittent failures.
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A. Part
B. Leg, solder pad, and bending area
have to be heated simultaneously
C. Solder must  ow into the drilling hole
D. Solder
E. Round bending area without edges
F. Soldering tip
G. Neat, vulcano-shaped soldering cone
H. Bending legs to prevent parts falling
out from the PCB
I. Bend area at some distance from the
part
A
I
H
F
F
B
B
C
G
G
E
D
D
D

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Bad soldering contacts may be recognized by ball-shaped slugs of solder around a pad or a mat
surface (for lead-less solder the surface will even be extremely mat) and must be re-soldered.
To insert sockets and other parts for horizontal mounting on the PCB you may use the following
trick: First of all you just solder one leg of the part. Then you press the part down slightly, while
heating the same soldering pad (Caution: the part may become very hot). The part will now
settle to the surface of the board and remain in a  xed position. You now solder all other contacts.
Finally re-solder the  rst contact again with some extra solder.
After soldering a part the outstanding wires of the legs are to be cut off with a pair of pincers. Cut
the legs off closely to the PCB, while taking care not to pull or push the legs.
Be careful for sharp-edged pieces of wire  ying around while cutting the legs.
Vertically mounted parts of course are not allowed to make contact to neighbors and
must be bent apart if they have been placed too close.
3.4 De-soldering
When, ocassionally, a part has landed on a spot where it does not belong then you have to
remove such a part. The ASURO - as you could expect - has a double sided PCB with trough
metalized holes, this makes the removal of the parts not very easy.
The following may be some help for you;
Add some  ex to the soldering of the part which must be removed (a simple way of doing this is to
add some extra solder). When all the solderings of the part are heated try to remove the part with
a plier from the PCB. At the end you can easily remove the solder with desoldering wick.
Put the soldering wick on the solder(pad) [see, step 1 & 2, below]. You may also do this when the
part is still in the PCB! Heat the wick and the solder together. At some point the wick will suck the
solder into the copper braid. At this point, REMOVE the soldering iron and wick quickly.
You may repeat this on the other side of the hole when there is still solder in it.
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Step 1
Put the copper braid over the solder(pad)
of the component which must be removed.
Heat the braid and the solder(pad), the
braid will now suck the solder.
Step 2
Remove the soldering iron and
copper braid at the same time.

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4. Electronic assembly
Did you read the soldering instructions? Really? Well OK, let’s go!
4.1. Assembling the RS232 infrared-transceiver
• IC1: Initially insert the 8-pole socket. The polarity mark of the (slightly asymmetrical) socket
must correspond to the mark in the accompanying symbol on the PCB.
• D1, D2, D3: 1N4148, pay attention to polarity! Read the imprints of the parts and take care
not to interchange with ZPD5.1 or BZX55-C5V1!
• D4: ZPD5.1 or BZX55-C5V1, pay attention to polarity! Read the imprints of the parts and
take care not to interchange with 1N4148!
• D5: SFH-415-U IR LED (Black LED) pay attention to polarity, press downwards to the PCB
• C1: 100µF at least 16 volt, pay attention to polarity!
• C2, C4: 100nF ceramic capacitor, imprint: 104
• C3: 680pF ceramic capacitor, imprint: 681
• Q1: BC547 (A,B or C) or BC548 (A,B or C)
• R1, R5: 20kΩ_ (red, black, orange, gold)
• R2: 4.7kΩ (yellow, violet, red, gold)
• R3: 470Ω (yellow, violet, black, gold)
• R6: 10kΩ (brown, black, orange, gold)
• R7: 220Ω (red, red, brown, gold)
• TR1: 10KΩ variable resistor
• IC2: SFH5110-36 Infrared receiver IC, bend the legs with appropriate tongs! Pay attention
to polarity (the curvature must be positioned to the outside)! Caution: electrostatic discharge
(ESD) and excessive soldering or heating may damage the part!
• X1: 9pol. SUB-D connector, case must be settled close to PCB. Attachment strips must be
soldered as well!
• IC1: insert the NE555P, pay attention to polarity!
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Finally check the board for short circuits or polarity errors. Check the soldering quality intensively
and re-solder bad contacts.
Ready!

 g. 4.1.: Assembled IR-Transceiver
Electronics
When the RS-232-IR-transceiver is ready assembled with the parts it will look
like the above picture.

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Fig. 4.2.: USB Infrared-Transceiver
Fig. 4.3.: Component side USB Infrared-Transceiver
Fig. 4.4.: Bottom side USB Infrared-Transceiver
4.2. Assembled USB IR-transceiver

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4.3. Inserting parts in the ASURO-PCB
The two longer axles, which will be needed for the second gear section are to be soldered or glued
at the bottom-side of the PCB. Soldering is the best option, it hardens much faster than gluing and
you always can easily correct it afterwards when necessary.
The two shorter axles have to be attached at the upper PCB-side nearer to the middle of the
board. Before attachment, the axles must be cleaned at the soldering or glue-side (but not at the
wheel-side) with some very  ne sandpaper (corning number 240 or more), in order to improve
adhesion of the solder respectively glue. If you choose soldering these parts, the following
procedure should be followed:
First of all the longer axles will be attached. Put the PCB on a table with the bottom side upward
and place the longer axle into the slide. Push it fully to the end of the slide. The axle should be
laying  at at the length of the slide. Wet the soldering tip with some solder and press the tip onto
the axle. After heating the axle you must add solder at the soldering pads beside the axles. After
the soldering is  nished, the soldering iron can be removed, while pressing the axle downwards
with a screwdriver until the soldering connection is cooled off completely.
Repeat the procedure with the second long axle. Turn the PCB around and repeat the procedure
with both short axles. Fig. 4.3 shows the PCB with four axles attached.
After a cooling phase the wheels may be attached to the axles. The cogwheels must  t exactly
and the wheels are to rotate easily. If the wheels do not rotate easily, the axles might have been
attached erroneously and you will have to repeat the procedure. In case some solder fractions
should be attached to the surface of the axles in the wheel area, they must be removed by
sandpaper or with a  ne  le.
If the wheels rotate easily, they may be removed and be put aside in order to place the electronic
parts onto the PCB.
Fig. 4.3.:
ASURO-PCB with attached axles
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The following inserting sequence may be used as a guideline:
• IC1: at  rst insert only the socket (either one Dual in line 28 pole-socket or two Dual in line
14 pole-sockets). Pay attention to polarity! A slight asymmetry is a mark for polarity in the
socket and in the symbols on the PCB!
• IC3: Again insert only the socket (Dual in line 14 pole-socket). Pay attention to polarity! A
slight asymmetry is a mark for polarity in the socket and in the symbols on the PCB!
• K1, K2, K3, K4, K5, K6: Sensor-switches, which must be mounted  at to the PCB surface!
• Q1; Resonator 8MHz
• D1, D2, D3, D4, D5, D6, D7, D8: Diode 1N4148; Pay attention to polarity!
• D9: 1N4001; Pay attention to polarity!
• JP1: Jumper; Short pins will be soldered, do not yet apply the jumper connector element!
• D12: Dual colored LED, 3 mm diameter, three legs ; Pay attention to polarity! (polarity may
differ from part to part, however: the shortest leg must be inserted into the square soldering
pad)!
• C2, C3, C4, C5: 100nF Ceramic; Imprinted: 104
• C6, C7: 4,7nF Ceramic; Imprinted: 472
Fig. 4.2: Inserting parts view of upper-side to the main ASURO-PCB
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• T1, T3, T5, T7: BC327-40 or BC328-40
• T2, T4, T6, T8: BC337-40 or BC338-40
• R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R19, R21, R24: 1kΩ (brown, black, red, gold)
• R9, R16: 220Ω (red, red, brown, gold)
• R10, R17, R22, R31: 470Ω (yellow, violet, brown, gold)
• R11: 100Ω (brown, black, brown, gold)
• R12: 12kΩ (brown, red, orange, gold)
• R13: 10kΩ (brown, black, orange, gold)
• R14, R15: 20kΩ (red, black, orange, gold)
• R18, R20: 4,7kΩ (yellow, violet, red, gold)
• R23: 1MΩ (brown, black, green, gold)
• R25, R26, R32: 2kΩ (red, black, black, brown, brown)
• R27: 8,2kΩ (grey, red, black, brown, brown)
• R28: 16kΩ (brown, blue, black, red, brown)
• R29: 33kΩ (orange, orange, black, red, brown)
• R30: 68kΩ (blue, grey, black, red, brown)
• C1, C8: Elco 220_F 10V or higher values; Pay attention to polarity!
• IC2: SFH5110-36 Infrared-receiver-IC, bend the legs with long-nose pliers!
Pay attention to polarity (the side with dome-shaped curvature must be positioned to the
outside)! Caution: electrostatic discharge (ESD) and excessive soldering or heating may
damage the part!
• D10: SFH 415-U IR-LED 5mm; black case; Pay attention to polarity! Case must be settled
close to PCB.
• T11, T12: LPT80A, Phototransistor, colorless case;
Case must be settled close to PCB; Pay attention to polarity!
• D13, D14: IRL80A, IR-LED, rosy case;
Case must be settled close to PCB; Pay attention to polarity!
• D15, D16: LED 5 mm red, rosy respectively red case. Pay attention to polarity
(short leg must be inserted at the mark)!
• S1: On/Off-Switch
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Three more parts will be needed (which will be used to follow a line), but they will be placed at the
bottom side of the PCB and have to soldered from the upper side
(see  g.
4.5
):
• T9, T10: SFH300, Phototransistor 5 mm; Pay attention to polarity! These components have
to be placed at some distance from the PCB.
• D11: LED 5 mm red, red or reddisch case; Pay attention to polarity! (short leg must be
inserted at the mark)!
Fig. 4.6 gives an overview of the PCB with all parts inserted up to this phase in top view and in
bottom view.
That’s all! We will need no other electronic components.
In the next steps we will place electromechanical components and mechanical parts.
Fig. 4.6.: ASURO top side and bottom side, completely equipped
Fig. 4.5.:
Inserting parts at the bottom side of
the ASURO-PCB
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4.4. Attachment of the motors
After completing the insertion of the parts on the ASURO-PCB, we must supply the motors with
cabling and attach these parts temporarely for some tests.
To supply electrical energy to the motor, we need 70 mm red and black wire for each terminal.
These four wires for two motors have to be stripped at both ends for around 4 mm. The ends
of the wires have to be twisted and pre-soldered with some solder. Any surplus parts of solder
attached at the end of the wires may be cut off with a diagonal cutter. By soldering, we attach the
red wire to the motor terminal, marked with a dot or a plus-sign. The black wire will be attached to
the other terminal.
The wiring for the motors may be twisted (not necessary, but it will diminish sensitivity for
electromagnetic disturbances and it looks much better...).
The red wire of the motor on the left side must be soldered into the “ML+”-port, the black wire into
the “ML-”-port, the red wire of the motor on the right side must be soldered into the “MR+”-port, the
black wire into the “MR-”-port.
Next we have to attach the motors temporarily to the PCB by cable-tiers. Use two holes to insert
the supplied cable-tiers. In the  rst phase it will be suf cient to attach the two inner cable-tiers only.
4.5. Power supply
If ASURO is to be equipped and operated with batteries, you must open Jumper JP1
at any rate!
If you decide to use rechargeable devices, the jumper has to be closed.
Reverse placement of power cells with a closed jumper will destroy electronic parts!
Solder the red wire of the battery-holder into the “
BAT+”, and the black wire
into the “
BAT-“
terminal. Check and be sure the ON/OFF-switch is in the OFF-position. Place the four power
cells, correctly polarised, into the
battery-compartment. Right now or after completing all tests,
the
battery-compartment must be attached to the PCB by inserting the larger cable-tie in the PCB-
hole.
Electronics
Fig. 4.7. Top and bottom view of the PCB