Art Hobby Evolulion 2.SM User manual

Evolulion 2.SM & Evo/ulion-EV 2.SM
Vortex 2.SM & Vor/ex-ET 2.SM
Kit Contents
-Fiberglass fuselage pod with canopy -composite
-Tapered tail boom -carbon/glass-composite
-4-segment Wing -pre-sheeted and sanded
- V-tail halves w/hinged rudevators -Evolution
-V-tail mount & triangle plate -Evolution
-Composite plate with M3 bolts and nylon retainers -Evolution
-V-tail control horns
(2) -Evolution
-Vertical stabilize
r- carbon/Glass composite -Vortex
-Rudder-balsa laminated -Vortex
-Horizontal stabilizer- balsa laminated w/hinged elevator -Vortex
-Wing Tip Joiners rods -carbon
(4)
- Wing Bo lt M4 (1-metal, 1 ny lon)
-Nylon retainer with M2 bolt for horizontal stabilizer (2) -Vortex
-Control horn for Horizontal stabilizer (1) -Vortex
-Control horn for rudder (1) -Vortex
-CA hinges for rudder
(2) -Vortex
-Control Horns for the Ailerons and the Flaps (4)
-Pushrod wire for Aileron and Flap
(4)
-Pushrod set for elevator and Rudder (2)
-Joiner tube for Elevator pushrod tubes (1)
-Fiberglass cloth
-Glider Drawing
Art Hobby guarantees this kit to be free from defects in material
and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does NOT
cover any components damaged by use, misuse, or
modification.
In no case shall Art Hobby's liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased product.
In that Art Hobby has no
control over the final assembly or material used for final
assembly, no liability shall
be assumed for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
Radio Control Hobbies are not toys but rather high
performance models that could produce harm.
Always put safety first when using this product.
If this is your first 'mode/, please
seek Ihe adv ,ic'e .. of othe~
experienced . mopelers prio~ ; to
assembly and fHght. .,A'n
internationallyrecognized nonpr9fil
sanctioning organlzatioq for .
modeling is Ihe Academy of Model
Aeronautics . They can provideclub,
field , and liability insurance
information.
Contact them for information at:
AMA
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie,
IN 47302·9252
(800) 435·9262
Fax: (765) 289·4248.
Internet:
. .
, www ."'!odel,aircraft.org, ,:
Check the Items Needed, Tools and
Supplies,and Contents, s~ctions .
V'lrify the.contents of the kit and
, your supplies before continuing. If
'you' have "any Qther problems or
questions,pleaseeontaefcustoiner
sei'vlee In the U.S.A. at:
. ., Customer Service
1122'GingerAve.
Billings,
MT 59105
(406).545-4118
Email:
9[email protected]
Visit us at
.:. wwW.arthobby.com
Recommended Radio & Drive
Components
Glider & Electro·glider:
-6-ch.+ Radio system:
Aurora-9 Hitec, RDS800FHSS Airtronics or similar
- 6 ch.+ Receiver
Optima-6/7 Hitec (#H2841 0, H28414)
RX -700Airtronics (#H92674) or similar
-Servos:
Ailerons/spoillerons
-HS-65MG; HS-82MG (#H32065,H32082)
Flaps (optional)
-HS-85MG (#H31085)
V-tail
-HS-65HB (#H33065)
Elevator
-HS-65MG (#H32065)
Rudder
-HS-65HB (#H33065) -tail
-Servo wire extensions:
2x 36"
(#HOOX36) -ailerons
2x 24"
(#HOOX24) -flaps
or 100 Inches ofServo Wireto make yourown extensions
-Universal wing servo covers x 2 (#A0031)
Electro·glider:
-ART-2000 outrunner motor
-
41 mm spinner + 16x8 CAM Aeronaut
(#A041 S5 + A01680)
or
-40 mm spinner + 15x8 CAM Aeronaut
(#A040S5 + A01580)
-ESC 36 -54 Amp
(#M70360, M70500, M70540)
-2200 -2500mAh, 3-cells LiPo
(#B118160, B182265)
Tools & Supplies
-Hobby Knife (blade #11)
- 5 Minute Epoxy (#A0201).
(use for joining the wing panels and tail)
-20 Minute Finishing Epoxy (#A0209)
(use for fiber glassing joints)
-CA adhesive (#A0101).
-Masking tape
-Pliers
-Drill
-Drill Bits: 2mm, 4mm, 6mm
-Soldering Iron
- 1 meter ruler
-Flexible metal ruler (Approximately 250mm long will be
easiest to use)
-Clear lacquer (DEFT- brand) or similar.
-400 grit sand paper.
Evo-Vortex v.
01

Note: .
Please test fit aI/ parts before beginning assembly. The glider'has a complete 3 view drawing separate to this manual.
Please refer to this drawing during assembly. This. drawingis the latestinformation abouUhe glider imd shouldbe the
primary source forineasurem~nt and placementquestions. .i '. ," ,
• . . • " j I . .
Finishing the Wood Surfaces
To prevent the wood from pre-mature aging and moisture
damage, we recommend sealing the wood using lacquer
manufactured by DEFT (available from The Home Depot and
Lowe's stores). The best would
be a "Satin" or "Semi gloss"
type of finish. (Prior to using lacquer, any white foam surface
should be sealed by applying a film like coat of epoxy). The
black poplar veneer wing skins (-OAmm thick) are sealed
under surface, then laminated with epoxy to the wing foam
cores. This
is making a barrier preventing harsh lacquer thinner
penetration inside. We recommend
to apply lacquer in a few
very light coats, this way lacquer thinner evaporates very fast
and does not have time to cause any harm to the wing foam
cores. The best finish results will
be to brush on 1 0 2 coats of
Lacquer Sanding Sealer then sand the surface using 400 grit
sand paper, then spray
on a very light 3-rd, 4-th and more coats
if desired.
Use as little as possible
to keep the weight down.
Color Option :
After wing
is completely finished with lacquer then you can
mask it and spray some color stripes especially to the bottom
side
of the wing that will give the glider some accent and
provide you with better visibility during flight.
2
Recommended Building Steps
Attention: The ailerons and flaps should remain uncut from
the wing as long as possible. Meaning after wing is finished
and painted it should be put aside for a few days to cure.
The paint curing process and reacting with the wood usually
takes 2-3 days even in a warm environment. During this time
the surface should remain uncut.
(many times modelers are impatient and cut the ailerons/flaps
as soon as the wing is dry to the touch)
If the control surfaces are cut from wing shortly after it's painted
then more likely will be distorted during paint curing
It is best to start building the glider from the wing,
1. finish both wing tips
2. glue together wing center panels and laminate the joint.
3. paint the wing (including personal touches) to its final stage
and put the wing aside to cure the paint (longer time is better)
4. assemble and paint the glider tail
5. assemble fuselage with tail, install pushrods, radio gear and
electric drive components
in the fuselage.
(those steps usually take 2-3 evenings sometimes longer -this
is also valuable time needed to cure painted wing)
6. cut wing servo bays and prepare them for servo installation.
7. now separate the ailerons from the wing, finish them and
hinge to the wing as soon
as possible.
8. separate the flaps from the wing, finish them and hinge to the
wing as soon as possible.
(do not leave control surfaces unattached to the wing for a
longer period
of time)
9. install aileron and flap control horns
10. Prepare wing servo wiring and install wing servos.
Notesaboutthefinishedsurfaces:
The fuselage is painted (in the mold). The white paint will be
damagedbythinners. The woodsurfaces
cC)n be finishedwith a
proper clear varnish. Remember tha(the wing has a foam core
and somepaints may attackthefoam internaily.
.;
Wing Assembly
1. Remove the wing segmentsfrom their protectivefoam.
2. Sand the balsa wing tips to shape. Only round the top. Leave
the bottom
of the tip the shape ofthe wing foil. Try to make the tips
match
as closely as possible. PHOTO 1
Wing uP' .
~ ml h. 51!l11ded
Photo 1
3. Use knife with sharp blade #11 and cut out a narrow groove in
the foam underwing skin around both wing roots.PHOTO 2
While two middle segments are joined together the groove will be
filled up with epoxy creating a strongercenterjOint.
Photo 2
Evo-Vortex v. 01

Find the light fiberglass cloth and cut four -25mm wide strips
from it. PHOTO 3
4. Lightly sand the meeting surfaces ofthewing center panels and
• outboard panels.
5. Apply the 25mm wide gloss cloth strip to each panel face. Use
20 Minute Finishing Epoxy to adhere the glass cloth strips to the
panel face. PHOT04
Do NOT use polyester resin as the resin will attack the foam
core .
Photo 4
6. Afterepoxy has cured cut offexcess cloth and sand finish using
400-grid sandpaper, than cutthrough it to expose the holes for the
Carbon fiber rods and the cable canals.
7. Glue the fou r (1 OOmm) carbon fiber rods in the outboard wing
panels, with the exposed ends projecting out 50mm.PHOTO 5
Eva-Vortex
v.01
Joining the Wing Center Panels
To achieve a proper dihedral angle the root of each wing
center panels is sanded at a slight angle to fit.
1. Hold the wing center panelstogetherwith masking tape. Mark
the bottom side root ofthe wing 28mm and 139mm back from the
leading edge. Also markthe position ofthe wing servo wire canals
on the bottom side ofthewing root .PHOTO 6
2. Find the two hardwood blocks. Place the blocks on the wing
rootfoam surface. Centereach block
on the marksyou made.
3. Mark the block width on the wing root foam and draw the wing
contourline on the block.
The blocks will carry the wing mounting screws.
4. Use knife with sharp blade #11 and cut out cavities forthe
blocks in both wing roots PHOTO 8
5. Shape the blocksbeforeinstallation and testfit.
Use sandpaper and/or a knife and/or a rotary tool to
completely fit the blocks to the wing'scontour.
Wing Blocks shapGd to fit
Photo 7
Photo 83

4
6. Use masking tape and mask each panel surface around the
joint.
7. Trial fit the blocks once again.Adjustments to the blocks may
be necessary.
8. Lay one ofthe wing center panels flat on the table. Take other
wing center panel andjoin with its wing tip panel.
9. Once satisfied with the fit glue both blocks in place and wing
centerpanelstogetherusing 5 minute epoxy orslower
cu reepoxy
ifyou wish. Hold down both center panels togetheratthe rots and
raise the panel with connected wing tip 80mm from the table
surface. PHOTO 9
Make
sure that both wing halvesare aligned perfectly.
10. Wipeaway all excess epoxy. Allow the epoxyto cure (at least
30 minutes) then removethe masking tape.
11 . Cut two strips 35mm wide from heavy weight glass cloth, and
two strips 50mm wide from medium weight glass cloth (supplied
in the kit). PHOTO 10
The cloth will rei nforce the wing, top and bottom, around the
wingjointatthe root.
12. To keep the resin from spreading too far, apply masking tape
to the wing
-2mm awayfrom the cloth'sedge. PHOTO 10
13. Mix a moderate portion of 20min.epoxy and using a small
paint brush or spreader stick apply the epoxy to the bottom ofthe
joint.
14. Lay prepared strips ofglass cloth over the joint. First lay the
heavycloth then the medium widerstrip ove
r. PHOTO 11
15.Use a small piece ofpaper towel.fold afew times togetherand •
dab the gloss cloth. PHOTO 12
Dabbing will allow the epoxy to completely saturate the cloth and
adhere to the wood wing surface,itwill also remove excess epoxy
and smooth thejoint.(change newpiece ofthe towel ifneeded)
16. Repeat steps 13-18 and apply reinforcing cloth to the top of
thejoint.
17. Once the epoxy has set, remove the masking tape. Apply
fresh maskingtape 2mm pastthe end ofepoxy.
18.Use 400 grit sand paperand sand the joint smooth ifneeded.
DO NOT sand away the wing sheeting where the glass ends.
This
will weaken the wing and could causefailure.
Wing Servos and Control
Surfaces Installation
Refer to glider drawing and check the marking of the aileron
and flap location on each wing.
1. Cutthe aileron and flap from the wing.
First cut both ends
of each aileron and flap.We recomme nd using
afine balsa sawto make those cuts. PHOTO 13
Photo 13
Evo-Vortex v. 01

2. Use hc:>bby knife with #11 blade and metal ruler as a cutting
guideto cut the ailerons and flaps from the wing.
It is very importantto make perfectly straightcuts.PHOTO 14
Because the ailerons will
be hinged on the upperwing surface, the
leading edge of each aileron will need to be sanded at an angle to
allow the aileron to deflect down. The flaps will be hinged on the
lowerwing surface.
3.Use hingetape (or silicone Hing) to attach the ailerons and flaps
to the wing.
4. The wing flap servo bays 40mm x 35mm are located 320mm
in
f ro mthe wing root,and 1 OOmm from the trailing edge.
5. The wing aileron servo bays 40mm x 35mm are located 775mm
in from thewing root,and 90mm from the trailing edge.
Please use HitecHS-65MG / HS-125MG servosfor the ailerons,
and HS-65MG /HS-85MG servos fortheflaps or similarservos.
6.Inthe bottom
of the wing cut servo bays.
7. Now from the balsa planks make servo boxes then glue them
into servo bays using 5 min.epoxy
.. PHOTO 15
/'
//
,.
Photo 15
Photo 16
8. Using 20min. epoxy laminate bottom of all servo bay with
fiberglass cloth. PHOTO 17
Evo-Vortex v.
01
9. After epoxy sets use sanding block and sand all servo boxes
flush with the wing surface. PHOTO 18
10. Run servo wire through the wing (music wire can be used to
help pull the wire through) Hardwired the servo wire extension to
the servo.There
is simply no room forthe servo plug.
Be very careful to keep the polarity correct and each wire
insulated.
11 .Connectthe servostothe receiver.
Turn on the radio and centerthe servos.
Checkforproperservo movement.
Use your servo reversing switches on the transmitter
if the servo
moves in thewrong direction.
12. Install control horns on the ailerons and flaps directly back
from the servo arm. The horns should be positioned with the
servo arm holesforward and aligned overthe hinge line.
PHOTO 18
13. Drill holes (appropriately), insertcontrol horn pins into holes
in
and secure it with back plate pushed over the horn pins on the
back side
of thecontrol surface.
Use a small dab
of epoxy or CA to permanently secure the
horns
in position
14. Cut pins approx. 1mm above the horn back plate and melt
them flat using soldering iron.
15. Place the servos
in the center of servo bays, lock the ailerons
and flaps in a neutral position securing both ends of each control
surfaceto the wing's trailing edge with apiece oftape.
Now measure distances between servos control arms and
aileron/flap control horns, according to these measurements
make two sets
of short pushrods from the supplied wire (one set
forthe aileronsand one setforthe flaps).
wesuggest making "Z" bend on both ends.
16.Connect all pushrods first to the aileron and flap horns,then to
the servo arms, afterthat install all servos
in their servo bays with
asmall amount
of silicone sealer.
17. To cover the servos you can use Art Hobby's universal wing
servocovers (#A0031).PHOTO 19 5

Photo 19
Wing Tips -Servo Wire Connectors
Each wing tip plugs into the wing center section using two
carbon rods, tips are removable for transportation and for
storage purposes.
Becaus
of the we suggest to use servo wire connectors
(#A1303) mounted into face ofwing panels PHOTO 20 &
21
Mounting the Wing
1. Place the wi ng on the fuselage wing saddle, then use a sharp
pointed pencil to markthe wing'strailing edge on thefuselage.
2. Remove the wing, then measure the distance between the
marked line and the center
of the two threaded holes in the wing
saddle.
3. Place the wing upside down and transfer both measured
distances onto the center
of the wing joint, they should match
previously made markings.
4.Using 4mm drill bit,drillthe hole
in the marked position.
Rememberthat the hole has to be drilled in an angle to match
the angle
of thewing boltscrewed intothe fuselage.
5. Find the M4 wing bolts and screw them to the wing saddle to
check the angle.
6.From the top side of the wing open the holes properlyto fit in the
nylon seats for the wing bolts. Trial fit the seats, insert the wing
bolts,and screwthe wing tothe fuselage.
6
Ifsatisfied with the fit, remove the wing and permanentlygluewing
bolt seats in place.Use 5Minute Epoxy
T-tail Assembly
First locate all T-tail parts Vertical stabilizer Rudder and
Horizontal stabilizer with pre-hinged elevato r.
The Vertical stabilizer is glued permanently to the boom with
use of the CA adhesive or with Epoxy.
1.Cut opening for the rudder pushrod tube
on the marked
position
on the side of the vertical stabilizer PHOTO 20
Photo 20
2. Cut opening for the elevator pushrod wire in marked position
(on the back
of the vertical stabilizer saddle)
PHOTO 21& 22
Photo 21
Photo 22
3 .Now insert first pusrod wire into thinner tube located in the
mounting tip of the vertical stabilizer. PHOTO 23
Evo-Vortex
v.01

/
Photo 23
4 .Now insert pusrod tube into larger tube located in the
mounting tip of the stabilizer and pull out from the opening
made earlier.
Se cure projecting out end with one drop of CA adhesive.
5. Take second pushrod wire and make "
Z" bend on its end,
then
in sert it into projecting tubing. PHOTO 24
6 .Insta
ll Rudder with CA hinges using thin CA adhesive
(#A0101 Insta-Set) . PHOTO 25
7. Now push rudder control horn over the "Z" bended pushrod
en
d. PHOTO 26
8. Insert control horn pins into holes
in the rudder and secure it
with back plate pushed over the horn pins on the back side of
the rudder. PHOTO
27
9. Cut pins approx. 1mm from the back plate and melt them flat
u
si ng soldering iron.
10 .From thin (1-2 mm) balsa board cut strip -14mm wide and
-720mm long. Secure both pushrod tubes to the board using
CA adhesive. PHOTO
28
Evo-Vortex v.01
Photo 27
11 . Insert board with pushrod into the boom and glue vertical
stabilizer to the boom.
ATTENTION: Gluing it please apply light pressure so the upper
wall of the vertical stabilizer tip (black color PHOTO 28) will be
pressed against inner upper wall of the tail boom then hold few
minutes
in this position until epoxy sets.
Photo 29 7

8
12. Now make 4mm " L" bend on end ofelevator pushrod wire.
PHOTO 30
Photo 30
13. Prepare horizontal stabilizer installing elevator horn and
nylon retainers for mounting bolts, then attach horn to the
"L"bended pushrod wire and secure horizontal stabilizer to the
vertical stabilizer with M2 bolts. PHOTO
31
V-tail Installation
The V-tail can be glued permanently to the boom with use
of the mounting plate or it can be made removable.
1.Find the V-tail stabilizer halves and the mounting plate set.
PHOTO 32
Photo 32
The plate and triangle are pre-cut to the correct angle of 105
degrees. All tail pieces: the mounting plate,two V-tail halves, and
triangle interlocktogether.
2. The mounting plate and triangle are a little bit longer, so both
pieces haveto be cut to fit.
Atthe back it should aligned with the hinge line.
Thefront should match the stabilizer.
3. After cutting the front and the back of the mounting plate and
triangle, they should be sanded to shape.PHOTO 33
Photo 33
4. The bottom part of the V-tail mounting plate has a round shape
to fit the boom. But to make a perfect fit to the boom we
recommend wrapping the tail part
of the boom with sand paper,
and making a few strokes with the plate to achieve perfectly fitted
saddle forthe tapertail boom.PHOTO 34
V-tall mounti ng pla.ta sahded ' to ~ flt 11'19 boom
Photo 34
Evo-Vortex v. 01

5.Trial fit the plate to the boom and markits position on the boom.
• Cleanthe marked surface of the boomwith sand paper.
PHOTO 35
\1. 1811 h100rtllng plat. a nd 18 11 1»Oit'1
prep ared 'kJ( joini ng
Photo 35
6.Use 5min.epoxyand glue the plate tothe boom. PHOTO 36
Photo 36
7.Find V-tail stabilize halves and trial fit them together.
Checkthe V-Tail angle,it should be 105degrees.PHOTO 37
8. Glueboth ofthe V-tail stabilizerstogether.
You maywish to blockthe stabilizersto hold the correctangle.
Do notallowthe parts to
be twisted.
Once sati sf ied withthefit, join the stabilizers with CA adhesive.
9.Glue thetrianglejoinerbetween stabilizers.PHOTO 37
Photo 37
10. Now mask the V-tail and reinforce top of the joints with a
strip of lightweight glass cloth using the 20 Minute Finishing
Cure Epoxy. PHOTO 38 After epoxy cures smooth the jointwith
fine (400 grid) sand pape
r.
Evo-Vortex v. 01
Photo 38
11. Mark position forthe V-tail mounting screws. PHOTO 39
Photo 39
12. Place the V-tail in its position on the mounting plate and drill
two holesthrough the V-tail plate and top wall of the boom.
13. Now insert composite mount into boom and trial mount the
V-
tail with two M3screws
14. If everything fits, remove the V-tail and enlarge two holes to
acceptthe two nylon retainers. Use a small dab
of epoxy or CAto
permanently securethe retainers in their positions.
15.Aftersecuring retainers mountthe V-tail PHOTO 40
9

10
V-tail control horns
1. Find the control horns. Cut the backplate from the horns, use
them astemplates
to markplacement of the holes.
2.Drill holesforthe horn locating pins.
3.Mountthe hornssecuring them with the backplates.
Use a small dab of epoxyor CA to permanently secure the horns
in theirpositions.PHOTO 41
Photo 41
Servo installation (glider)
1. Clean the joinertip of the fuselage pod with sand paper.Trial fit
the boomwith the pod and c heckthe alignment. PHOTO42
Sand !he Fuselage pod tip
beforejoining wlltllt1.boom
Photo 42
2 .From thin (1 -2 mm) balsa board cut strip -14mm wide and
-720mm long that will fit inside the boom. Secure both pushrod
tubes to the board using CA adhesive.
3. Insert board with pushrod tubes into tail boom.
Once the placement is finalized, glue the tube ends with epoxy
insidetheboom . PHOTO 43
Do not attachthe housings insidethe fuse/age pod yet.
Photo 43.
4. Cut openings in wing saddle and under canopy .
PHOTO 44 & 45
•
Photo44
Photo 45
5. Install elevator and rudder servos and check alignment with
pushrods. PHOTO 46
6. Once servos heve been installed,glue the boom
in place using
5minute Epoxy.
Look along the fuselage from the nose while the glue is still soft,
and rotating tail boom align tail with the wing very carefully before
epoxycures.
7.Placethe control surfaces and radio gear
in neutral.
Make "Z" bends in the pushrod wires ends, then connect the
pushrodsto the servo armsthen attach them to the servos.
8.Gluethe pushrod tubes tothe fuselage bulkhead. PHOTO 46
Photo 46
'; .. ~
Eva-Vortex v. 01

Motor mount installation (electro-glider)
• 1. Cut the nose of the fuselage appropriate to the size of the
spinner you are going to use for the glider (measurements are
shown
on the drawing).
2. Cut circular bulkhead plate from the plywood or other desired
material
in diametertofit 4-5mm deepinto the nose opening.
Drill the appropriate holes in the motor mount plate to
accommodate the drive unit. PHOTO 47
Photo 47
3. Generously spread epoxy where the motor mount/bulkhead
will go into the fuselage,and on the edge ofthe circularmount.
4. Insert the bulkhead approximately 4-5mm
fom the edge into
the noseopening.
The epoxy inside the fuselage where the bulkhead is installed will
be pushed behind plate as it's inserted,forming a reinforcing bead
ofepoxy around the edge ofthe plate.
Spread a bit ofextra epoxy,ifnecessary (from the outside) around
the junction ofthe bulkhead and fuselage
to seal and strengthen
thejoint.
5. When the epoxy hardens cut four ventilation holes
(similar way as shown on the photo): two on both sides of the
no
se and two on both back sides of the canopy, this will not
abstract aerodynamics of the pod and allow the cooling air to
pass through PHOTO 48
Photo 48
5. Attach the drive unit (with speed controller connected) to the
motor mount/bulkhead, then temporarily attach spinner with
mounted propellerblades and check ifall fits well.
PHOT049&50
Evo-Vortex v. 01
Photo 49
11

Servo & Pushrods installation
(electro-glider)
1.Clean thejoinertip ofthe fuselage pod with sand paper.
PHOTO 25 Trial fit the boom with the pod and check the
alignment.
2. Cutopening in wing saddle. PHOTO 51
~----~.---~~~~~~
3.Install the elevatorpushrod housings and pushrods.
Connectthe pushrod wiresto the elevatorcontrol horns.
4. Once the pushrod placement is finalized, glue the housing
tubes with small post made
of balsa and a dab of epoxy insidethe
pod ..
5.Trial connectthe boom tothe pod.
6. Place the elevator servos (recommend HS-65MG) temporarily
inside the pod.Use gliderdrawing as a reference point.
Once proper servos position has been finalized, mark it precisely
and removethe tail boom.
7.Installthe servos
in the marked position insidethe pod.
(We
recommend installing the servos with use of plywood
tray epoxy inside the pod) .PHOTO 52
(The servos also may be attached to the bottom
of the pod using
silicone adhesive)
8. Now
in preparation to connecting elevator and rudder pushrod
wires to the servoarms:
Use masking tape and tape both elevators and rudder
in neutral
position.Trial connect elevatorand rudder servos to the receiver,
turn the radio ON and find servos neutral position.
9. Connect the boom to the pod and mark the pushrod housing
tubes-25 -30mm away from the servo arms.
10. Remove tail boom and carefully cut the pushrod tubes only
(Notthe wires) on the mark (use hobby knife).
11 . Reconnect the boom to the pod and mark each pushrod wire
overthe servoarm
holeforthe "Z" bends to be made.
12 . Remove tail boom and cut the pushrod wires appropriately
then makethe "Z"bends.
13. Removethe servo armsfrom the servos and connectto the "Z"
bended pushrod wires.
Now connect the boom to the pod and trial connect the servo
armsto the servos.
12
Photo 53
14. lf satisfied with the fit, remove the servo arms from the servos
and disconnectthe boom from the pod.
15.Mountthewing to the pod and glue the boom to pod with 5 min.
epoxy
.Look along the fuselage from the nose while the glue is still soft,
and rotating tail boom align the tail with the wing very carefully
before epoxycures.
16.Afterepoxy cures,remove the wing, connect the servoarms to
the pushrod wire then connect
it to the servo and secure with the
servo arm screw.
17. Glue the pushrod housings to the inside
of the fuselage pod in
one ortwo spots.
18. Finalize all radio and drivegearinstallation.
19. Before flight,double check balance and control throw direction
forfreeand propermovement.
STARTING CONTROLTHROWS:
Ailerons: 15mm UP, 10mm DOWN, 17 -26mm CROW
Spoilerons: 26mm UP (break)
Flaps:
7mm TOWING, 20 -26mm CROW
Elevator: 1 Omm in each direction
Rudder: 15mm in each direction
BALANCE POINT(C.G.):
The completely assembledglidermustbalance level when raised
at the marked"C.G"pointunderthe wing roots, a tolerance of 5mm
backandforward
of markedposition is permissible.
Balance the VortexI Evolution -77mm backfrom the leading edge
of the wing at the centersection.
20.Try some hand launches and straight glides over a grass field
before high launching the glider. This will
be a good time to adjust
control throws and final balance.
NOTE:
Control throws and glider C. G. are quite subjective according to
the flying conditions
and pilot's preferences. These throws are
simply a starting point. Experimentation is recommended
to
achieve a smooth flyingplane you are comfortable flying.
Attaching Canopy
We recommend attaching canopy with two pieces of clear
scotch tape adhered to both sides of canopy.
To access the
interior, simply peel off tape on one side (other side will act as a
hinge). This
is good for opening the canopy a few times, then
tape has to be replaced. This is a simple and very dependable
method. There
is no danger for the canopy to be blown off
during flight- because canopies
of all our gliders are perfectly
fitted to their fuselage pods. Evo-Vortex
v.01

_ J.
2500
' 1:
0,
a
(()
t/)
t/)
ro
2>
Q)
.D
~- - - -
w::
l'U
, c-c ~4S '
,> " - -lr----:;
-'l- ~f~ M4 ~1
IF
0-0
~
16
\\
E-E
Profile MH32/30 modified
~ ~::;;, -~
01
"" 1
F-F
L!7 :"::! ~ 1
Balsa 'fj C.arnon
W
--;I-
9 FJber
~ .-~
1 ---- ~
I 175
16
~ ?¢ h '?¥11 ' ~""?=--
I .
1apQ? ~ 1
Fiberg!ass
;;:
atzt® r:C!t.f. f 'I
Vortex-ET 2.SM
162
..,
N
N
g
..,.
Des igned by Krzysztof Jasinski & Andre Czeczel -.-J