Atwood Pilot 6 Gallon User manual

1
Atwood Water Heaters
Table of Contents
•AftermarketLP Gas Water Heater Model Identification ................................................................2
•Pilot Models
•Questions ............................................................................................................................3
•Model Number Explanation / Features ......................................................................................4
•Recommended Tools & Equipment ..........................................................................................5
•Gas Thermostat Controls & Pilot Assemblies ..............................................................................6
•Pilot Sequence of Operation....................................................................................................7
•Pilot & Main Burner................................................................................................................8
•Trouble Shooting Guide - Pilot ................................................................................................9
•Engine Heat Exchange System / Aftermarket Heating Elements....................................................10
•Bolt-In Heating Element, Thermostat & ECO / 110 VAC Trouble Shooting Wiring Schematic ..............11
•Screw-In Heating Element, Thermostat & ECO / 110 VAC Trouble Shooting Wiring Schematic ..........12
•Electronic Ignition & XT Models
•Questions ..........................................................................................................................13
•Model Number Explanation / Features ....................................................................................14
•Recommended Tools & Equipment..........................................................................................15
•DSI Sequence of Operation ..................................................................................................16
•Trouble Shooting Guide - Electronic Ignition ........................................................................17-18
•Information Guide - Intermittent Ignition ..............................................................................19-20
•Potted Channel Circuit Boards / Thermal Cut Off Device / Thermostat ..........................................21
•Wiring Schematics ..............................................................................................................22
•Water Heater Wiring Revision GC 10A-4E & GC 6A-10E..............................................................23
•Water Heater Conversion 3E to 4E & 9E 10E ............................................................................24
•4E & 10E - Sequence of Operation & Quick Diagnostic ..............................................................25
•General Water Heater Information
•Questions ..........................................................................................................................26
•Pressure Temperature Relief Valve / Water Heater Tank Corrosion / Atwood Clad Tank ....................27
•Flushing Tank / Winterizing Instructions....................................................................................28
•Water Heater Terminology ....................................................................................................29
•Pilot Water Heater Parts Breakdown ....................................................................................30-32
•Replacement Part Reference
G10B, G10C / G610-3B, GH610-3 / G4SM / G6A-2, G6A-3, G6A-6, G6A-6P, G6A-7, G6A-7P / GC6A, GC6A-3,
GC6A-6, GC6A-7 / GH6-3, GH6-6, GH6-7 / GC6AA-7, GC6AA-7P / GC6AA-8, GC6AA-8P / G610-3,
GC10-1, GC10-2, GC10-2P / GC10A-2 / GC10A-2P / G10-1, G10-1P, G10-2, G10-2P
•Electronic Ignition Water Heater Parts Breakdown ................................................................33-36
•Replacement Part Reference
G610-3E, GH610-3E / GCH6-4E, GCH6-6E, / GC6A-7E / GC6AA-7E / GC6AA-8E / GC6AA-9E, GC6AA-10E
G6A-2E, G6A-3E, G6A-4E, G6A-6E, G6A-7E, G6A-8E / G6A-3E, GH6-3E / GH6-4E, GH6-6E, GH6-7E,
GH6-8E / GCH6A-7E, GCH6A-8E, GCH6A-9E / GCH6A-10E / GCH10A-2E, GCH10A-3E / GCH10-4E / G10-1E /
GH10-2E, GH10-3E / GC10-1E, GC10-2E / GC10A-2E / GC10A-3E / GC10A-4E
•XT Water Heater
•10 Gal XT Water Heater Replacement Valve Kit ........................................................................37
•Parts Reference ..................................................................................................................38
•Wiring Diagram....................................................................................................................39
•Service Tank Kit Part Numbers ................................................................................................40
•Marine Water Heater Parts Breakdown ....................................................................................41

2
Atwood LP Gas Water Heaters
PART # MODEL# DESCRIPTION
96110 G6A-7 6 GAL. GAS - PILOT
G6A-7P 6 GAL. GAS - PILOT RELIGHT
96117 GC6AA-8 6 GAL. GAS/ELECTRIC - PILOT
GC6AA-10E 6 GAL. GAS/ELECTRIC - DSI
96163 GCH6A-10E 6 GAL. GAS/ELECTRIC - HEAT EXCHANGER - DSI
96121 G6A-8E 6 GAL. GAS - DSI
96136 GH6-8E 6 GAL. GAS - HEAT EXCHANGER - DSI
90073 G9-EXT 6 GAL. GAS - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
90071 GE9-EXT 6 GAL. GAS/ELECTRIC - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
90068 GEH9-EXT 6 GAL. GAS/ELECTRIC - HEAT EXCHANGER - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
94180 G10-2 10 GAL GAS - PILOT
94186 GC10A-2 10 GAL GAS/ELECTRIC - PILOT
94191 G10-3E 10 GAL GAS - DSI
GH10-3E 10 GAL GAS - HEAT EXCHANGER - DSI
94022 GC10A-4E 10 GAL GAS/ELECTRIC - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
94023 GCH10A-4E 10 GAL GAS/ELECTRIC - HEAT EXCHANGER - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
94105 G16-EXT 10 GAL GAS - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
94026 GE16-EXT 10 GAL GAS/ELECTRIC - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
94029 GEH16-EXT 10 GAL GAS/ELECTRIC - HEAT EXCHANGER - DSI - EXOTHERMAL
MARINE WATER HEATERS - 110 VOLT
EHM4-SM 4 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - 150 PSI
EHM6-SM-FHX 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 75 PSI
93891 EHM6-SM-FHX 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI
EHM6-SM-FHX-4W 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - ANDERSON CONNECTOR
EHM6-SM-FHX-TC 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI W/VAC VALVE
94610 EHM6-SM-FHX-SS 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - SS
93882 EHM11-SM-FHX 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI
EHM11-SM-FHX 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 75 PSI
94550 EHM11-SM-FHX-SS 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - SS
EHM11-SM-FHX-4W 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - ANDERSON CONNECTOR
EHP-10-SS 10 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - FOUR LOOP - 150 PSI - SS
96335 EHP-10 10 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - FOUR LOOP - 150 PSI
EHM11-SM-SS-DUAL-HX 11 GAL EXTERNAL & INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - SS
94210 EH20 20 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - TWO LOOP - 150 PSI
94215 E20 20 GAL NO HEAT EXCHANGER - 150 PSI
INTERNATIONAL MARINE WATER HEATERS - 220 VOLT - CE APPROVED
EHM4
94590 EHM6-FHX 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI
EHM6-FHX 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 75 PSI
94605 EHM6-SS-FHX 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - SS
EHM6-FHX-4W 6 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - ANDERSON CONNECTOR
94555 EHM11-FHX 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI
EHM11-FHX 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 75 PSI
EHM11-FHX 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI
94575 EHM11-SS-FHX 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - SS
EHM11-FHX-4W 11 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - SINGLE LOOP - 150 PSI - ANDERSON CONNECTOR
94220 EH20 20 GAL INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER - TWO LOOP - 150 PSI
94225 E20 20 GAL NO HEAT EXCHANGER - 150 PSI
E20 20 GAL NO HEAT EXCHANGER - 75 PSI
DSI - DIRECT SPARK IGNITION
SS - STAINLESS JACKET
XT - EXOTHERMAL

3
Pilot Models
QUESTIONS
The following questions should be answered during this portion of the manual:
· Are the Robertshaw and White Rodgers thermostat gas control valves inter-changeable?
· What is the minimum gas pressure required for proper water heater operation?
· Where on the water heater gas control can gas pressure be tested?
· Can the pilot flame be adjusted?
· What is minimum millivolt output of the thermocouple required for proper gas control operation?
· How can you test a thermocouple?
· How tight should the thermocouple connection be at the gas control?
· What is an E.C.O., where is it located and what is its function?
· What is a proper main burner air shutter adjustment?
· What is the proper control and main burner alignment?
· How can you easily check the calibration of a control?

4
Atwood 6 and 10 Gallon Pilot Water Heaters
Atwood water heaters are designed and approved for use only in recreation vehicles (travel trailers, 5th wheels,
motor homes, etc.). They are offered in two sizes: 6 and 10 gallon capacities.
TYPE OF GAS IGNITION -
This unit is ignited outside of the trailer by a match, piezo ignitor or other ignition device. The water
temperature is adjustable at the thermostat control.
EXPLANATION OF MODEL NUMBER:
Pilot Models
GC H 6 A - 8 P
Pilot Relight
Version
Type of heating element
Gallon capacity (6 or 10)
Engine Heat Exchange
Combination gas and 110 VAC electric
Propane Gas
NOTE: When replacing the element on a combination gas/110 VAC unit, always check the back
of the heater for the type of element it has. It will either be a bolt-on or screw-in
element. They are not interchangeable.
FEATURES
•All units operate on propane gas.
•A heat exchange option is available for motor homes. The water heater tank must have factory equipped
heat exchange tubes welded on it already. They cannot be added later. A new water heater tank with this
option is the only way to obtain this feature.
•Skin mounting allows the water heater to be hooked up with plumbing and electrical before the sidewall is
erected.
•The tank has a clad aluminum lining that protects against corrosion and does not need to be replaced on a
yearly or more frequent basis unlike an anode rod. A more detailed explanation of cladding is found in the
back of this manual.
•95% of all servicing can be done on the outside of the water heater. 110 VAC heating components are the
exception since they are located on the back of the water heater inside the trailer.
•A flush flange is available for all models. This makes the access door flush with the trailer sidewall.
•There are multiple protection features in the form of a pressure-temperature relief valve, a limit switch in the
gas thermostat and an externally sealed combustion chamber.
•On combination water heaters, the gas mode and the 110 VAC heating mode can be operated at the same
time since each mode has its own thermostat.
•Both the six and ten gallon units have the lightest weight in the industry.
•The Atwood Limited Warranty is for a period of two years.
•There are over 1,000 Service Centers throughout the United States.

5
Recommended Tools and Equipment
U-Tube Manometer - This is the most accurate device for measuring gas pressure. If you use a dial-type
manometer, it should be calibrated periodically with this type of manometer.
Thermostat Wrench - This tool allows for easier and safer removal of the gas thermostat control. An
adjustable version for different size controls is available through most RV distributors or you may fabricate one
from angle iron. We do not recommend using a pipe wrench because it may damage the control causing it to
go out of calibration.
Multi-meter - This is the most versatile meter and will test AC voltage and continuity. A continuity test can be
used to test for a blown E.C.O. on a gas control.
Magnet Assembly Thermocouple Tester - This assembly can be obtained at an electronics or hardware store.
This same assembly can also be removed from a Robertshaw control. It will verify if a thermocouple is good.
For testing, screw a thermocouple into the tester, heat the thermocouple for 25 seconds and then press the
plunger down. If the plunger pops up in less that 25 seconds, the thermocouple is faulty.
Common Hand Tools - 1/8˝ and 1/4˝ nut drivers, open end wrenches, flat blade and Phillips screw drivers.
Leak Test Solution - A solution that bubbles when applied to gas fittings or connections showing when a gas
leak is present.
THERMOSTAT WRENCH
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Manometer
connection
Correct
water
level
Fill here
U-TUBE MANOMETER
with 1/8” pipe nipple
MULTI-METER TO TEST
VOLTAGE AND CONTINUITY
MAGNET ASSEMBLY TO TEST
THERMOCOUPLE

6
Gas Thermostat Controls and Pilot Assemblies
Only two makes of gas controls have been used on our pilot model water heaters. They are the Robertshaw
“Unitrol” and White Rodger (formerly Jade or ITT).
The Robertshaw control came in two different sizes of gas inlets: 3/8˝ inverted flare and 3/8˝ N.P.T. The
inverted inlet control is no longer available. Therefore, the water heater gas line connection will have to be
modified to 3/8˝ N.P.T. in order to use the current Robertshaw control.
The White Rodger control is the valve we are using on all production today. Formerly it had a 3/8˝ N.P.T.
inlet. Now it is only available with a 1/4˝ inlet. This improvement eliminates the adapter fitting into the control
allowing the use of only a single 45 degree elbow (3/8˝ flare x 1/4˝ N.P.T.). If you are replacing a current 1/4˝
inlet model control with a earlier model 3/8˝ inlet control you may have in stock, the adapter fitting that
mates the control and elbow fitting is still available.
Although the controls appear quite different in size, the White Rodger and Robertshaw control are
interchangeable. Their manifolds will both line up with the burner tube properly.
Both controls have a port to test gas pressure through the valve. This can be accomplished by removing the
cover screw and inserting a 1/8” pipe nipple. After attaching your manometer hose to this fitting, the
manometer should register 10” W.C. through the valve while it is operating.
There are two main pilot assemblies that you will encounter in the field.
The first is an earlier model Robertshaw pilot assembly with a 1/4˝ pilot gas line that mounted on the left
side of the main burner.
The current pilot is the Jade assembly with a 1/8˝ pilot gas line and it mounts on the right side of the main
burner.
The Robertshaw pilot is no longer available and the Jade pilot must be substituted. When installing a Jade
assembly in place of a Robertshaw assembly, if there is not a location on the right side of the main burner to
mount the Jade pilot, a new burner that has the proper mounting holes will have to be purchased.
Note: The size of the gas line does not have
any affect on the size of the pilot flame. Only
the gas pressure and pilot orifice regulate the
height of the pilot flame.
ROBERTSHAW “UNITROL”
• 3/8˝ Inverted inlet
3/8˝ N.P.T. outlet
(no longer available)
• 3/8˝ N.P.T. inlet
3/8˝ N.P.T. outlet
WHITE RODGERS (JADE, ITT)
• 3/8˝ N.P.T. outlet
(no longer available)
• 1/4˝ N.P.T. inlet
3/8˝ N.P.T. outlet
(replaces all Robertshaw
and Jade controls)
JADE ROBERTSHAW
(obsolete, replace with Jade)

7
Pilot Sequence of Operation
PILOT OPERATION
• Gas Pressure 11˝ W.C. to control is necessary. Set with two gas appliances running.

• Gas Control supplies gas to pilot orifice when control ON/OFF pilot knob is held at pilot position.

• Pilot Orifice meters gas to heat thermocouple. Flame should be high enough to engulf the
thermocouple.

• Thermocouple generates millivoltage to the gas control’s magnet assembly.

• Magnet when it receives 12 millivolts or more it allows gas to flow freely to pilot without
holding pilot knob.

• E.C.O. passes millivolts through the gas control and back to thermocouple. Trips
permanently open if water temperature exceeds 190°F.

MAIN BURNER OPERATION
• Gas Control supplies gas to main burner when control knob is set to “ON” position and the
temperature lever is set to desired temperature after pilot is lit.

• Main Burner Orifice meters gas through burner tube.

• Main Burner pilot ignites gas when it reaches end of this tube. Flame height adjusted by sliding air
shutter. Ideal setting is 1/4 way open (.20˝). Flame should be primarily blue with
a trace of yellow.

• Temperature Knob setting of knob determines burner cycle and water temperature. Temperature range is
70°F - 140°F.
Pilot Flame
Thermocouple
ON/OFF Pilot K nob
Air Shutter
ONE SHOT
E.C.O. 190°Gas Inlet
11" W.C.
Pressure
JADE CONTROL SYSTEM
Temperature Lever
Pilot Ori c e (inside)

8
Pilot and Main Burner
Pilot Adjustment
Only the gas pressure, gas valve and the pilot orifice regulate the height of the pilot flame. Early model gas
controls have a pilot adjustment screw, but this screw has very little effect on the pilot. The pilot
adjustment has been removed from the current White Rodger control. The flame should be high enough to
engulf the thermocouple at all times. A pilot flame any larger could blow the E.C.O. in the gas control. This
is typically the result of enlarging the pilot orifice hole with a pin or similar item. For further corrective
measures, refer to the trouble-shooting guide.
Main Burner Adjustment
The gas pressure, air shutter and cleanliness of the burner tube and orifice regulate the main burner flame.
The main burner flame should be mainly blue with a trace of yellow and fairly quiet. If it is not, adjust the
gas pressure to 11˝ W.C., ensure that the main burner air shutter is 1/4 way open and verify that the main
burner flame spreader is square to the end of the main burner. For further corrective measures, refer to the
trouble-shooting guide.
Main Burner Alignment
The manifold and main burner should be as perfectly aligned as possible. In other words, the gas valve
should be rotated at the same angle as the main burner tube. If it is not, rotate the gas control and/or the
orifice holder so that the orifice disperses gas straight down the center of the burner tube. If the valve must
be backed off any, check for water leaks at the coupling the control screws into before you operate the
water heater.
Pilot Flame
Thermocouple
On/O Pilot Knob
Air Shutter
Temperature Lever
Flame Spreader
Burner Tube
Gas Valve
Orifice Holder Main Burner Tube
(orientation found in pilot water heater)

9
Guides are only intended for use on Atwood®products by service technicians who have successfully completed
Atwood®training. This guide should be used in conjunction with the appropriate Instruction Manual provided with the
product and any applicable Industry standards. This is not intended to be a complete list. Please direct questions
concerning service of Atwood®products to 866-869-3118 before proceeding.
CAUSE SOLUTION
PILOT OUTAGE
Gas pressure incorrect --------------------------Set pressure to a minimum of 11˝ W.C. with two or more appliances running
Blocked “U” tube --------------------------------Remove obstruction
Improper main burner alignment --------------Re-align main burner and main burner orifice holder and gas valve
Improper air adjustment ------------------------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 open
Weak thermocouple------------------------------Replace thermocouple
Poor pilot flame ----------------------------------Clean or replace pilot orifice
Weak gas control magnet ----------------------Replace gas control
Defective E.C.O. in control ----------------------Replace gas control and check the pilot flame. It should be high enough to engulf
the thermocouple at all times.
PILOT OUTAGE WHEN BUTTON OR KNOB IS RELEASED
Thermocouple not hot --------------------------Hold button or knob for 30 seconds before releasing
Thermocouple loose ----------------------------Tighten connection at gas control
Weak thermocouple------------------------------Replace thermocouple
Weak gas control magnet ----------------------Replace gas control
Defective E.C.O. in control ----------------------Replace gas control
MAIN BURNER WILL NOT IGNITE
Blocked main burner orifice --------------------Clean or replace orifice
Main burner flame spreader mis-alignment --Square flame spreader to end of main burner
Blocked main burner ----------------------------Remove blockage
Improper air adjustment ------------------------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 open
Blocked “U” tube --------------------------------Remove blockage
Gas control out of calibration ------------------Replace gas control
ERRATIC MAIN BURNER FLAME
Improper gas pressure --------------------------Set inlet pressure to a minimum of 11˝ W.C. with two or more appliances running
Improper air adjustment ------------------------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 open
Partial blockage of main burner ----------------Remove blockage
Partial blockage of main burner orifice--------Clean or replace orifice
Flame spreader misaligned----------------------Re-align spreader or replace main burner
Blockage in “U” tube ----------------------------Remove blockage
Poor gas supply ----------------------------------Replace gas supply
Exhaust grille blocked --------------------------Remove blockage
Improper main burner alignment --------------Re-align main burner, main burner orifice holder and gas valve
SMOKING AND SOOTING
Gas pressure incorrect --------------------------Set pressure to a minimum of 11˝ W.C. with two or more appliances running
Poor gas supply ----------------------------------Replace gas supply
Improper pilot flame ----------------------------Clean or replace pilot orifice
Improper air adjustment ------------------------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 open
Flame spreader mis-aligned --------------------Re-align or replace main burner
Blocked main burner ----------------------------Remove blockage
Improper main burner alignment --------------Re-align main burner, main burner orifice holder and gas valve
Blocked “U” tube --------------------------------Remove blockage
INSUFFICIENT WATER TEMPERATURE
Temperature selector out of place--------------Re-set to desired position
Bypass levers improperly positioned ----------Reposition levers
Improper air adjustment ------------------------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 way open
Partial main burner blockage ------------------Remove blockage
Improper main burner adjustment ------------Re-align main burner and main burner orifice holder
Flame spreader mis-aligned --------------------Re-align or replace main burner
Blocked “U” tube --------------------------------Remove blockage
Pilot Water Heater
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Effective: 5/26/98
A Division of Dura Automotive Systems

10
Engine Heat Exchange System
The engine heat exchange system allows a motor home to heat the water while traveling. This convenient
option allows you to arrive at your destination with hot water. Operating a pilot or electronic water heater on
gas while in transit is a dangerous practice.
This system consists of a U-shaped aluminum tube that is attached to the outside of the tank with welds. SAE
hoses are attached to both ends of this tube and are spliced into the engine coolant system.
When the engine is running, the hot coolant flows past the tank through this tube and by means of heat
transfer through the welds, heating the water. The design of this system will not allow the water to reach a
boiling point.
Custom er supplied SAE 053 A type
"E" hose clamp
or evuivalent
Heat Exchanger Tubes
Annu alar Grove
Heat Exchanger
Tub es
Coolant System Hose
(5/8" dia. SAE 20R3
or equivalent)
Custom er
supplied tee
• Temperatures produced by these heating elements
can exceed the 190˚F. limit of the ECO on pilot model
gas control valves. This gas control valve contains a
one-shot ECO. When this ECO blows, the control is
completely non-functional and must be replaced.
THIS IS A NON-WARRANTABLE SITUATION.
• When Aftermarket heating elements are inserted
into the drain plug, customers are more prone not
to flush their tanks. Not flushing the tank
accelerates tank corrosion on both our pilot and
electronic ignition water heaters creating a situation
where the tank may have to be replaced. THIS IS A
NON-WARRANTABLE SITUATION.
Aftermarket Heating Elements
WARNING
EXPLOSION / BURN INJURY
• Aftermarket heating elements can lack critical safety controls.
• Use of these devices can lead to an out of control heating of water tank and a
catastrophic wet side explosion.
YOU DO NOT NEED AN AFTERMARKET HEATING ELEMENT ON AN ATWOOD WATER HEATER. THE USE OF AFTERMARKET HEATING
ELEMENT DEVICES MAY ALSO RESULT IN DAMAGE TO COMPONENTS OR WATER HEATER. Atwood’s written warranty states
- “failure or damage resulting from any alteration to our water heater is the owner’s responsibility”. ANY
ALTERATION, SUCH AS THE ADDITION OF AN AFTERMARKET HEATING ELEMENT DEVICE, WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.

11
Ground
Switch
Element
Fixed Thermostat
Manual Reset
High Temperature
Limit Switch
( 3 )-GREEN
( 1 )-BLACK BLACK
( 2 )-WHITE BLACK
Hot Lead
Ground Lead
Common Lead
Early model water heaters with 110 VAC heating
capacity used a bolt-on heating element and a one
piece thermostat/E.C.O..
This 110 VAC system has an adjustable rectangular
thermostat that is surface mounted to the inner tank
and retained by a steel clip. The temperature settings
are HI, MEDIUM, and LOW. If the thermostat is
making unobstructed contact with the aluminum tank
and it is set to the HI position, it should heat the water
to 130° F. It will take longer to heat a tank of water on
electric than gas.
The heating element was changed in 1996 from
1500W to 1400W bringing the amperage draw down
to 12.7 amps and allowing more cushion for the
15 amp circuit breaker that is normally placed in line.
This change adds a few minutes to the heating time.
There are 110 VAC aftermarket conversion kits being
offered by distributors in which the heating element is
screwed into the tank where the drain plug is located.
We do not offer such a kit. Our kit includes the tank
with the 110 VAC components already installed in it.
In the case where the 110VAC portion of the water
heater is not heating water, the following diagnostic
steps and repairs should be investigated:
Turn POWER OFF to the appliance before
removing junction box cover.
Perform the following steps with POWER ON to
water heater.
1. Verify switch-A is in ON position.
2. Insure there is 110VAC to the unit (measure
voltage across the black and white lead to the
appliance with POWER ON). If none, trace wiring
back and make appropriate wire repair.
Perform the following steps with POWER OFF to
water heater.
3. ECO Re-set Button-D should be depressed.
4. Check for continuity between screw-B and screw-
C of thermostat. If none, replace thermostat.
5. If water is insufficiently hot, check ECO /
Thermostat-E is on high.
6. Verify a good wire connection between thermostat
screw-C and heating element screw-G. Correct if
necessary.
7. There should be continuity between heating
element screw-G and screw-F. If none, element is
bad and should be replaced. Do not over-tighten
self-tapping screws when installing new element.
8. Check for continuity between element screw-G
and flange of element. If there is, element has
shorted. Element should be replaced.
9. Verify ground connection.
NOTE: Heating element can be operated on an empty
tank for a limited period of time before it self-destructs.
BOLT-IN
Heating Element, Thermostat & ECO
110VAC Trouble-Shooting
Wiring Schematic
Temperature
Adjustment Dial
ECO
Re-Set
Button
UP

12
Current production water heaters with the 110 VAC
heating option use a screw-in heating element, a
separate pre-set thermostat and a separate ECO.
The screw-in heating element is rated at 1400 watts
just like the bolt-on element. It is an incalloy element
and can be run for a limited amount of time in a dry
tank without shorting out.
CAUTION: If the heating element is allowed to run
with a dry tank, allow the tank to cool down for 2-3
hours before adding water. Adding water before
the tank cools sufficiently could collapse the tank.
The thermostat and ECO are pre-set surface-mounted
discs. The thermostat is set at 140° F and is the same
thermostat used on the gas side of the electronic
ignition water heaters. The ECO is a backup
thermostat and will trip if the thermostat fails and the
water temperature exceeds 170° F.
When the 110VAC portion of the water heater is not
heating water, the following diagnostic steps and
repairs should be investigated:
Turn POWER OFF to the appliance before removing
junction box cover.
Perform the following steps with POWER ON to
water heater.
1. Verify switch is in ON position.
2. Insure there is 110VAC to the unit (measure
voltage across the black and white lead to the
appliance with POWER ON). If none, trace wiring
back and make appropriate wire repair.
Perform the following steps with POWER OFF to
water heater.
3. Manual reset ECO high limit switch-A should be
depressed. Check for continuity between
TERMINAL B and TERMINAL C of ECO.
4. Check for continuity between TERMINAL D and
TERMINAL E of thermostat. If there is none, replace
thermostat.
5. If water is insufficiently hot, insure thermostat is
flush with tank.
6. Verify a good wire connection between ECO
TERMINAL-C and heating element TERMINAL-F.
Correct if necessary.
7. Check for continuity between heating element
TERMINAL-F and TERMINAL-G. If none, element is bad
and should be replaced. Do not over-tighten self-
tapping screws when installing new element.
8. There should NOT BE CONTINUITY between element
screw-G and flange of element. If there is, element
has shorted. Element should be replaced.
9. Verify ground connection.
NOTE: Heating element can be operated on an empty
tank for a limited period of time before it self destructs.
Ground
Switch
Element
Fixed Thermostat
Manual Reset
High Temperature
Limit Switch
( 3 )-GREEN
( 1 )-BLACK BLACK
( 2 )-WHITE BLACK
Hot Lead
Ground Lead
Common Lead
SCREW-IN
Heating Element, Thermostat & ECO
110VAC Trouble-Shooting
Wiring Schematic
UP
GCDF BE
A

13
Electronic Ignition Models
QUESTIONS
The following questions should be answered during this portion of the manual:
· What is minimum gas pressure for proper water heater operation?
· Where on the gas solenoid valve can gas pressure be tested?
· What is the minimum voltage needed for operation?
· What is the proper wiring hook-up for the water heater circuitry?
· Can the Circuit Board Tester be used on both Fenwal and Channel circuit boards?
· How can the Circuit Board Tester be used to check a "flying lead" circuit board?
· What conditions can cause tracks on the back of the circuit board to blow?
· What is a proper main burner air shutter adjustment?
· What is the function of the thermal cut-off?

14
Atwood 6 and 10 Gallon Electronic Ignition Water Heaters
Atwood water heaters are designed and approved for use only in recreation vehicles (travel trailers, 5th wheels,
motor homes, etc.). They are offered in two sizes: 6 and 10 gallon capacities.
TYPE OF GAS IGNITION -
This unit is ignited inside of the trailer by a remote ON/OFF switch. The water temperature is preset at 140° F.
EXPLANATION OF MODEL NUMBER:
Electronic Models
GC H6AA-10E
Electronic Ignition
Version
Type of heating element
Gallon capacity (6 or 10)
Engine heat exchange
Combination gas and 110VAC electric
Propane Gas
NOTE: When replacing the element on a combination gas/110 VAC unit, always check the back
of the heater for the type of element it has. It will either be a bolt-on or screw-in
element. They are not interchangeable.
FEATURES
•All units operate on propane gas.
•A pre-set thermostat set for 140° F. An aftermarket retro-fit adjustable thermostat is available and adjustable
from 110° to 150° F.
•A heat exchange option is available. The water heater tank must have factory equipped heat exchange
tubes welded on it already. They cannot be added later. A new water heater tank with this feature must be
installed to use the heat exchanger.
•Skin mounting allows water heater to be hooked up with plumbing & electrical before the sidewall is erected.
•This heater has a comparable, if not superior, anode type protection for the tank. The tank is manufactured
with a clad aluminum lining that protects against corrosion but does not need to be replaced yearly as an
anode rod. A more detailed explanation of cladding is found in the back of this manual.
•95% of all servicing is done on the outside of the water heater. 110 VAC heating components are the
exception. Since they are located on the back of the water heater inside the trailer.
•A flush flange is available for all models. This makes the access door flush with the sidewall.
•The water heater has protection features that include a pressure-temperature relief valve and a limit switch
in the gas thermostat (ECO).
•Both the six and ten gallon units have the lightest weight in the industry.
•The Atwood Limited Warranty is for a period of two years.
•There are over 1,000 Service Centers throughout the United States.
XT Electronic Models Only
G E H 9/6 - E XT
Exothermal Technology
Electronic Ignition
Effective capacity (water heater size 6 or 10)
Engine heat exchange
Electric 110 Volt A/C
Propane Gas
FEATURES
•Provides 50% more hot water without increasing the size or adding weight using a pre-set thermostat set
for 155°F. used exclusively in the XT water heater.
•Pre-configured winterizing capability. The valve, hose, tee and thermostatically-controlled mixing valve, with
a check valve and a cold water passage, allows you to isolate and drain the tank and pump antifreeze
through the plumbing circuit.

15
Recommended Tools and Equipment
U-Tube Manometer - This is the most accurate device for measuring gas pressure. If you use a dial-type
manometer, calibrated it periodically.
Multi-meter - This is the most versatile meter and will test continuity and 12VDC. These tests will allow one to
verify voltage problems or faulty components. The entire electronic system can be tested with this meter.
Circuit Board Tester - The tester is capable of testing any of the circuit boards (Fenwal and Channel models)
that we have used on our water heaters. It is a simple table top device that will diagnose the following items on
a circuit board: power circuit, sense circuit, spark generation and the lock-out mode. For use on circuit boards
with a flying lead connection, splice a wire into the black wire of the tester harness with a 1/4˝male terminal on
the free end.
Common Hand Tools - 1/8˝ and 1/4˝ nut drivers, open end wrenches, flat blade and Phillips screw drivers.
Leak Test Solution - A solution that bubbles when applied to gas fittings or connections showing where a gas
leak is present.
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Manometer
connection
Correct
water
level
Fill here
MULTI-METER TO TEST
CONTINUITY & VOLTAGE
U-TUBE MANOMETER
with 1/8” pipe nipple
CIRCUIT BOARD TESTER
P/N 32779

16
DSI Sequence of Operation
• Gas Supply 11˝ W.C to solenoid valve is necessary

• 12VDC Battery Voltage source to water heater
or filtered side
of Convertor

• ON/OFF Switch It supplies 12VDC to water heater

• Thermal Cut-Off A one shot heat sensing fuse that’s normally closed and sends power to the thermostat.
When tripped by excessive heat (190°F), (i.e. blocked burner or flue tube) it cuts power to
the circuit board and shuts down ignition.

• Thermostat A normally closed non-adjustable temperature switch that sends current to the circuit
board. It opens when the water temperature reaches approximately 140°F.

• Circuit Board The next step is the direct spark ignition system. For a period of 6-8 seconds the circuit
board will send voltage to both the gas solenoid valve and the electrodes. The board is a 3
try for ignition. If ignition does not occur after three tries, the board goes into a lock-out
condition and the non-ignition light illuminated at the ON/OFF switch.
• E.C.O.
A normally closed safety temperature switch that
sends voltage to solenoid valve. The switch opens if
the water temperature exceeds 180°F.

• Gas Valve
The dual solenoid valve that opens and sends gas to
electrodes when a minimum of 10.5 VDC is applied to it.
• Electrodes
Creates a spark to ignite gas. If the electrodes do not
sense a flame in 6-8 seconds, a signal is sent to the
board to shut the gas valve down and the system goes
into safety lock-out.
NOTE: If this situation exists, the ON/OFF switch must be
turned off and back on again.

17
Guides are only intended for use on Atwood®products by service technicians who have successfully completed
Atwood®training. This guide should be used in conjunction with the appropriate Instruction Manual provided with the
product and any applicable Industry standards. This is not intended to be a complete list. Please direct questions
concerning service of Atwood®products to 866-869-3118 before proceeding.
CAUSE SOLUTION
WATER HEATER LOCK OUT - SPARK PRESENT BUT NO GAS
Gas pressure incorrect ------------------------------------------Set inlet pressure at a minimum 11˝ W.C. with two or more gas
appliances running
Low voltage--------------------------------------------------------Correct power supply - 10.5 VDC minimum
Blocked main burner tube --------------------------------------Clean burner tube
Blocked main burner orifice ------------------------------------Clean or replace orifice
Loose wires on E.C.O.--------------------------------------------Secure wire connections
Loose wire connections on solenoid valve --------------------Secure wire connections
Loose valve wire on wiring harness ----------------------------Repair wire on edge connector or replace wiring circuit board harness
Defective E.C.O. --------------------------------------------------Replace E.C.O.
Defective circuit board--------------------------------------------Replace circuit board
Defective solenoid valve------------------------------------------Replace coils or solenoid valve
No gas to solenoid valve ----------------------------------------Correct gas supply
Dirty connector on circuit board --------------------------------Clean edge connector
WATER HEATER LOCK OUT - GAS PRESENT BUT NO SPARK
High tension lead wire loose ------------------------------------Secure wire connection on circuit board
Electrodes loosely attached to main burner ------------------Secure electrodes to main burner
Improper electrode gapping ------------------------------------Re-position spark gap to 1/8˝ and into path of flame
Dirty electrodes --------------------------------------------------Clean electrodes
Wires loose in electrode porcelain------------------------------Replace electrodes
Cracked porcelain on electrode----------------------------------Replace electrodes
Defective circuit board--------------------------------------------Replace circuit board
WATER HEATER LOCK OUT - GAS AND SPARK PRESENT
Gas pressure incorrect ------------------------------------------Set inlet pressure at a minimum 11˝ W.C. with two or more gas
appliances running
Low voltage--------------------------------------------------------Correct power supply - 10.5 VDC minimum
Poor electrical ground--------------------------------------------Secure electrical ground
Electrodes out of flame pattern --------------------------------Re-adjust electrodes
Electrodes sparking to screw fastening burner to flue tube Adjust electrodes away from screw
Dirty electrodes --------------------------------------------------Clean electrodes
Partial obstruction in main burner ------------------------------Clean main burner
Partially obstructed main burner orifice------------------------Clean main burner orifice or replace
Improper air adjustment ----------------------------------------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 open
Flame spreader on main burner out of adjustment ----------Adjust flame spreader so that it is square to the end burner tube out
of alignment of the main burner
Manifold not aligned with main burner ------------------------Re-align solenoid valve with main burner
Partially opening solenoid valve --------------------------------Replace solenoid valve
Defective circuit board--------------------------------------------Replace circuit board
Electronic Ignition Water Heater
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Effective: 5/26/98
continued
A Division of Dura Automotive Systems

18
Electronic Ignition Water Heater (continued) Effective: 5/26/98
CAUSE SOLUTION
EXCESSIVE OR INSUFFICIENT WATER TEMPERATURES
By-pass kit valves not set properly ----------------------------Place valves in proper position
Thermostat not seated against tank ----------------------------Reseat thermostat
Defective thermostat----------------------------------------------Replace thermostat
ERRATIC BURNER FLAME OR SOOTING
Low gas pressure ------------------------------------------------Set inlet pressure at a minimum 11˝ W.C. with two or more gas
appliances running
Poor gas supply --------------------------------------------------Replace gas supply
Improper air adjustment ----------------------------------------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 way open. Flame
should be mainly blue and quiet.
Poor main burner alignment ------------------------------------Adjust valve and main burner alignment
Misaligned burner flame spreader ------------------------------Align flame spreader so it is square with end of burner tube.
Blocked burner orifice --------------------------------------------Clean orifice. DO NOT enlarge orifice
Obstructed main burner------------------------------------------Clean main burner
Obstructed “U” tube ----------------------------------------------Clean “U” tube
Obstructed exhaust grille ----------------------------------------Remove obstruction
NO SPARK AND NO GAS
No voltage --------------------------------------------------------Correct power supply - minimum 10.5 VDC
Dirty edge connector on circuit board--------------------------Clean edge connector
Defective thermal cut-off ----------------------------------------Replace thermal cut-off
Defective ON/OFF switch ----------------------------------------Replace switch
Defective circuit board--------------------------------------------Replace circuit board
Defective thermostat----------------------------------------------Replace thermostat

19
Guides are only intended for use on Atwood®products by service technicians who have
successfully completed Atwood®training. This guide should be used in conjunction with
the appropriate Instruction Manual provided with the product and any applicable Industry
Standards. This is not intended to be a complete list. Please direct questions concerning
service of Atwood®products to 866-869-3118 before proceeding.
1. CHECK ALL OF THE WIRE CONNECTIONS.
Poor or corroded wire connections cause most of the intermittent problems in water heaters. You
should go through and pull all of the wires off any spade connections. Then reconnect them and
ensure the connections are tight and corrosion free.
We want to point out two connections often overlooked.
First, check the (green) ground wire of the circuit board. This wire screws down under
the circuit board mounting screw. If that screw for the board is loose, you may not have a
secure ground.
Second, check the four wire edge connector going into the circuit board. Remove the
circuit board. Take a pencil eraser and clean the marks off the connection of the circuit
board. Reconnect the four wire edge connector onto the circuit board and then immediately
remove it. Look at the edge connection of the board. You need to see four good scratches
in the connection. If you do not see four scratches, then you will need to repair the edge
connector or replace the wire harness.
2. CHECK THE INTEGRITY AND POSITION OF THE SPARK PROBE ASSEMBLY.
The gap between the sparking probe and the ground probe should be
1/8 inch. The probes should be clean and free of cracks, flaking and
corrosion. Position the probes so that they are in the path of the gas
flow. Cracks in the ceramic insulator can also be the source of an
intermittent problem. To check for cracks insert a fiber washer or any
other type of insulation material in the 1/8” gap between the rods.
Remove the gas valve from the circuit and turn the unit on. If you see
a spark jumping from the ceramic to the ground rod or bracket,
replace the spark probe.
3. CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE MAIN BURNER TO THE ORIFICE.
Position the main burner tube (A) so that the gas coming out
of the orifice (B) is going straight down the middle of the
burner tube. If the alignment is off, the gas will bounce down
the tube which will alter the gas flow once it reaches the
spark. Manually shift the valve (C) with your hands to achieve
this alignment.
4. CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE FLAME SPREADER ON THE BURNER TUBE.
At the end of the burner tube there is a dime-shaped deflector
disk. This disk spreads the flame out for proper heat distribution.
Align the flame spreader (A) so that it is parallel to the end of the
tube and positioned in the center of the end of the tube. If the
flame spreader is out of position, it could divert the gas away
from the spark and cause intermittent ignition.
INTERMITTENT IGNITION
Electronic Ignition Water Heater
INFORMATION GUIDE
Effective: 8/21/00
continued
1/8"
CBA
A
1/4 open
A Division of Dura Automotive Systems

20
Intermittent Ignition Water Heater (continued) Effective: 8/21/00
5. CHECK THE AIR ADJUSTMENT.
The burner tube has an adjustable air shutter on it at the end where it goes over the orifice.
Position the air shutter so that it is 1/4 of the way open. We are looking for a blue flame with
small traces of yellow in the flame. If the flame is fairly quiet then it is adjusted correctly.
6. CHECK THE CLEANLINESS OF THE ORIFICE.
The orifice is the hex head brass fitting that is screwed onto the brass manifold of the valve. You
will have access to this part once the burner has been removed. Remove the brass orifice and
clean with isopropyl alcohol. NEVER enlarge the size of the orifice.
7. CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS IN THE MAIN BURNER TUBE.
The cleanliness of this tube is very important. Spider webs, soot and other debris can
accumulate, causing problems with gas flow down the tube. We recommend cleaning the burner
tube with a brush and not compressed air. Compressed air may not fully remove the obstruction.
8. CHECK THE CLEANLINESS OF THE FLUE TUBE.
The flue tube is the 2-1/2 inch diameter tube that starts at the bottom right corner of the water
heater (where the main burner flame enters) and comes out the top left. This tube can become
blocked by debris like insect nests or soot. To clean remove the metal flue box in the top left
corner of the water heater. To facilitate cleaning unfold a wire hanger, wrap a rag around the end
and use this to swab out the tube.
9. CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE VALVE.
Make sure that the voltage to the gas solenoid valve is between 10.5 and 13.5 volts DC. Voltage
drops can occur at almost any component. Turn on another twelve volt appliances when you
check the voltage so that you can see how the converter is working with a load. The voltage
itself can be intermittent. With linear converters the 12 VDC varies depending on the 115 VAC.
If the 115 VAC is high then the 12 VDC will be high, and if the 115 VAC is low then the 12 VDC
will be low. If the power to the water heater is connected to the unfiltered side of the converter,
move it to the filtered side.
10. CHECK THE GAS PRESSURE OF THE RV.
Make sure the gas pressure of the RV is checked with preferably the furnace and the range on
to simulate a load. The pressure should be 11 inch water column under load. Besides gas
pressure being at the proper level there are other strange things that can happen inside gas lines
that cause intermittent problems. We have seen oil build up in a gas line that meant there was
good pressure to one appliance but not the correct pressure to another appliance. Moisture
could also build up in the gas line that would freeze and partially block the line. Intermittent
pressure from the regulator of the bottles is still another area that should be investigated.
11. INTERMITTENT CIRCUIT BOARD.
If you have gone through all of the above checks and the intermittent problem is still occurring,
only then check the circuit board. Ensure the circuit board is clean and reasonably moisture free
before you change it.
There are two major points that should have stood out to you from this list.
First, the majority of intermittent ignition problems on Atwood electronic ignition water heaters
can be corrected by cleaning certain components or making simple adjustments.
Second, ignition problems can be found in other components than the circuit board. The circuit
board is not the end all solution to ignition problems. This mindset developed a number of years
ago with the introduction of the first circuit boards that were not very reliable. We’ve learned a lot
since then. Technology has progressed making today’s circuit boards very reliable. The circuit
board can only do what the other components of the water heater allow it to do.