Bernette b44 Operation instructions

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For bernette Overlockers: b44, b48
WORKBOOK #1 – BASIC SERGER USE
OVERLOCKER
MASTERY
BOOK
SERIES

2
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
TABLE OF CONTENTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS����������������������������������������������������2
INTRODUCTION ������������������������������������������������������������3
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER NEEDLES��������������������������4
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER THREADS�������������������������5
4-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH �������������������������������������6
ADJUSTING TENSION SETTINGS FOR BALANCED
STITCH���������������������������������������������������������������������������7
STITCH LENGTH ������������������������������������������������������������8
CUTTING WIDTH�����������������������������������������������������������9
DIFFERENTIAL FEED: STRETCHY FABRICS������������������10
DIFFERENTIAL FEED: SOFT FABRICS���������������������������11
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE�������������������������������������������12
3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH-WIDE�������������������������13
3-THREAD FLATLOCK - WIDE�������������������������������������14
3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH NARROW ������������������15
3-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW ������������������������������16
3-THREAD ROLLED HEM ��������������������������������������������17
2-THREAD ROLLED HEM ��������������������������������������������18
2-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW ������������������������������19
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: SECURING SEAMS��������20
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: INSIDE CORNER �����������21
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: OUTSIDE CORNER �������22
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: �������������������������������������23
DIFFERENTIAL FEED AND GATHERING ����������������������23
SUPPLIES����������������������������������������������������������������������24
The information in this workbook applies to the bernette Overlocker Machines models shown above�
Note: Some exercises apply only to certain models equipped with the feature being highlighted.
b 44
b 48

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bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on the purchase of your new bernette
overlocker. Learning to use your new machine to its fullest
capabilities will let you enjoy your machine for many years.
Understanding your machine’s features and learning its
navigation will maximize your creativity. While you will be
learning some basics, you’ll also be learning some creative
techniques, and we hope both will be inspirational.
Your overlocker will speed your sewing in many ways,
letting you produce more in less time. The speed of the
overlocker is faster than a sewing machine, and because
it performs several operations (trimming, seaming, and
overcasting) at the same time, your project is nished faster
and will produce neater and more professional results.
Even though the workings of the overlocker may appear be
more complex than a sewing machine, it doesn’t take long
to learn the basics. The stitching exercises in this workbook
use four, three, and two thread stitch formations.
Once you have completed the exercises designated for
your bernette overlock machine, attach the sewn samples
to the indicated pages, insert the pages into plastic page
protectors and store them in a 3-ring binder. Use this
workbook as a reference tool in the future as you learn to
use your overlocker in new ways.
For more information on the bernette line of sewing
machines and overlockers, as well as sewing projects, visit:
www.mybernette.com
4-thread overlock stitch
3-thread overlock stitch
2-thread overlock stitch
Click here to watch additional YouTube tutorial
videos about the b44 and b48.

4
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER NEEDLES
bernette Overlocker Needles
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many mechanical problems and damage to fabrics can be
traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle.
When selecting the correct needle, consider the following:
• Recommended needle system – ELx705. These needle are a at shank industrial needle. A pack of these needles is included
with the overlocker.
• Recommended sizes for your overlocker are 70/11, 80/12 and 90/14. Larger needles can interfere with looper movement
and cause damage; smaller needles may not form the stitches correctly.
• Needle point – assures proper stitch formation; avoids fabric damage
Need to Know
• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible, with the at side to the back. The
left needle will appear to be slightly higher than the right needle.
• Do not pull or push fabric while sewing. This can result in needle breakage or damage.
• Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• The needle is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine, but it is crucial for getting good results and keeping your
machine running well.
• The selected thread should t in the groove on the front of the needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a
larger groove should be used.
Tip: If one needle breaks, it is a good habit to change both needles. Keeping the needle size and type the same results in a
better formed stitch.
Needle Size for Fabrics
70 – shirt-weight
80 – medium-weight
90 – denim and twill

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bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER THREADS
Overlocker Threads
Overlocker threads are usually polyester and are ner (lighter weight) than many sewing machine threads to avoid thread
build-up and excessive bulk in seams. It is important that the thread is smooth and without variations in diameter as it needs
to feed smoothly through many thread guides for good stitch formation.
You also want a good-quality thread – such as Mettler Seracor – that is not “fuzzy” and does not leave excessive lint in the
lower part of your overlocker. Overlocker threads are sold on larger spools for economy and convenience; regular spools
of thread may be used but will not last very long when forming overlock stitches. Along with overlocker thread, there are
applications that call for specialty and decorative threads.
Listed below are some of these threads commonly used in the overlocker:
• Texturized Nylon Thread – such as YLI Woolly Nylon or Maxi-Lock Stretch—A very elastic thread with excellent coverage;
perfect for rolled edges and knit seams. Available in solid and variegated colors, and metallics.
• Polyester Topstitching Thread – such as YLI Jeans Stitch & Mettler Cordonnet – this heavy thread is used for decorative
stitching (atlocked seams and overcast edges). Also nice for cover and chain stitching. Available in solid and variegated
colors.
• Rayon Decorative Threads – such as YLI Pearl Crown Rayon & YLI Designer 6 – shiny threads for decorative applications.
Pearl Crown Rayon is twisted, while Designer 6 is untwisted. Available in solid and variegated colors.
• Metallic Decorative Threads – such as YLI Candlelight – adds a bit of glitz to seams and edgings.
• Decorative Sewing Threads – sewing machine threads can also be used in the overlocker, and are particularly effective when
several are used together as one thread.

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bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
1. Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock stitch using
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on
the machine. Adjust all thread tension settings as indicated in
chart below.
2. Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
3. For best results, raise the needles to their highest position
before stitching. To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser
foot with your thumb and slide the fabric under the presser
foot. Release the tip of the presser foot and begin stitching,
trimming the fold away. NOTE: Trimming a minimum of 1/4"
will result in a cleaner edge nish.
4. Stitch to the end of the fabric. Continue stitching off the
fabric until you have a 3”- 4” thread chain. Cut thread chain
with scissors.
5. Examine the stitch formation:
• Blue: Loops should extend to the edge of the fabric
where they will interlock with the red loops of the
lower looper.
• Red: Loops should extend to the edge of the fabric,
interlocking with the blue loops of the upper looper.
• Yellow: Needle stitches should appear along the
inside edge of the stitch as straight stitches or tiny
“dots” of thread on the back.
• Green: Needle stitches should appear as a line of
straight stitching running through the middle of the
overlock stitching.
6. See following page for tension adjustment information.
Make any necessary tension adjustments and sew
another 4-thread overlock stitch. Record your setting
adjustments on the fabric if necessary.
4-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH
Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch
Standard
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
4 4 4 4 2�5 6 1 N
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper Looper
Lower Looper

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bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
ADJUSTING TENSION SETTINGS FOR BALANCED STITCH
Examine your 4-thread sample. The illustrations below show
examples of unbalanced stitches and how to correct the settings to
balance the stitch. When making corrections in the tension settings,
increase or decrease the settings as needed, moving the dial ½ to
1 number at a time. Stitch a seam using the new settings and then
evaluate the new stitch. Continue in this manner until the stitch is
balanced.
Upper aNd Lower Loopers - TighT TeNsioN
Unbalanced: The looper threads cause the thread to roll at the edge of the fabric and/or
the seam allowance is folded inside the stitch.
Correction: Decrease (lower number) one or both looper tensions until the seam allowance
is at and loopers meet at the edge. Note: This problem might also result from an incorrect
cutting width setting.
Upper Looper - Loose TeNsioN
Unbalanced: The looper threads are not at the edge of the fabric. Upper looper thread
is visible on the back of the fabric and the looper threads are very loose.
Correction: Make sure the thread is seated in the tension guides. If it is, tighten the
upper looper thread (higher number).
Lower Looper - Loose TeNsioN
Unbalanced: The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. Lower looper
thread is visible on the face of the fabric. The looper threads are very loose.
Correction: Make sure the thread is seated in the tension guides. If it is, tighten the
lower looper thread (higher number).
LefT NeedLe - Loose TeNsioN
Unbalanced: The yellow needle forms loops on the underside of the fabric. The seam is
not secure and the yellow thread may show in the seam line.
Correction: Make sure the yellow thread is seated in the tension guide. If it is, tighten
the left needle tension (higher number).
righT NeedLe - Loose TeNsioN
Unbalanced: The green needle thread forms loops on the underside of the fabric.
Correction: Make sure the green thread is seated in the tension guide. If it is, tighten the right
needle tension (higher number).
RighT aNd LefT NeedLes - TighT TeNsioN
Unbalanced: The green and yellow needle threads are pulled taut, causing puckers in the
fabric at the seam line.
Correction: Make sure the threads are seated in the tension guides or have not double-
wrapped around a threading guide. If they have, unwrap or loosen appropriate needle
tension (lower number).

8
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
Using the balanced 4-thread overlock stitch from the previous
exercise, follow the instructions below to adjust the stitch length.
1. Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
2. Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections
along the folded edge.
3.
Adjust the stitch length to 4 mm. Sew to the rst
mark along the folded edge, trimming folded edge
approximately 1/4".
4. Adjust the stitch length to 3 mm and sew to the second
mark.
5. Adjust the stitch length to 2 mm and sew to the third
mark.
6. Adjust the stitch length to 1 mm and sew to the end.
7. Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.
8. Return stitch length to its normal setting of 2.5mm.
NOTE: Stitch length adjustments may be needed to
accommodate thicker or thinner threads or different weights
of fabric, as well as being used for decorative effects.
STITCH LENGTH
Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch
Standard
3 mm
2 mm
1 mm
4 mm
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
4 4 4 4 1-4 mm 6 1 N
General guidelines for stitch length settings
2.5 mm Standard setting
1-2 mm Rolled hems and decorative edges
2.5-4 mm Heavy weight fabrics
3-4 mm Gathering and applying elastic

9
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
The overlocker should be threaded for a 4-thread overlock
stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded
threading path on the overlocker. Adjust all thread tension
settings as indicated below, or as previously determined.
1.
F old the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
2. Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into three equal
sections along the folded edge.
3. Adjust the cutting width to the widest setting by turning
the dial counter clockwise. Sew to the rst mark on the
fabric, stopping when the knife edge is on the mark.
4. T urn the dial clockwise to adjust the cutting width to a
mid-range setting (•) and overlock to the second mark.
5. Turn the dial clockwise again to adjust the cutting width
to the lowest setting and overlock to the end of the fabric.
6. Mark the cutting width settings on the fabric sample.
7. Return cutting width to its normal setting (•).
CUTTING WIDTH
Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch
Standard
High #
(Wide)
Mid
(Normal)
Low #
(Narrow)
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
4 4 4 4 2�5
high - Low
1 N

10
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
The overlocker should be threaded for a 4-thread overlock
stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded
threading path on the machine. Adjust all thread tension
settings as indicated below or as previously determined in
the earlier exercises.
1. With the differential set at 1 (normal), sew two of the
knit pieces together along the stretchy 6” edge. When
stitching on fabric that is very stretchy, you may notice
that you have a wavy or stretched-out seam when
sewing with the Differential Feed Dial at the normal
setting.
2. To correct this, adjust the differential to 2.0. Sew the
remaining ribbing to the other side of the rst piece,
trimming slightly.
3. Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
4. Return Differential Feed Dial to its normal setting of 1.
DIFFERENTIAL FEED: STRETCHY FABRICS
Jersey knit, three pieces, 3" x 6"* each
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch
Standard
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
4 4 4 4 2�5 6 1-2 N
Differential
1
(normal)
Differential
set at 2
to correct
wavy seam
*Cut jersey knit so that the 6" side has the most stretch.

11
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
With the overlocker still threaded for a 4-thread overlock
stitch and using thread colors to match the color-coded
threading path on the machine, adjust all thread tension
settings as indicated in the chart below or as previously
determined.
1. Place the tricot pieces right sides together. With
the differential set at 1 (normal), stitch along the 6"
side of the soft fabric together along one 6” edge,
trimming about 1/4" off the edge. When sewing on
very lightweight fabric, you may notice that you have a
puckered edge.
2. To correct this, adjust the Differential Feed to 0.6. Sew
along the other 6” edge, trimming about 1/4" from the
edge of the fabric.
3. Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
4. Return Differential Feed Dial to its normal setting of 1.
DIFFERENTIAL FEED: SOFT FABRICS
Lightweight tricot, two 4" x 6" pieces
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch
Standard
Differential
1 (normal)
Puckering may occur on
lightweight fabrics
Differential
0.6 mm
to correct puckering
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
4 4 4 4 2�5 6 1-.6 N

12
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
With the overlocker still threaded for a 4-thread overlock
stitch and using thread colors to match the color-coded
threading path on the machine, adjust all thread tension
settings as indicated in the chart below or as previously
determined.
Note: The Presser Foot Pressure of the machine is pre-
adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium weight
fabrics. Most fabrics do not require adjustment of the
Presser Foot Pressure.
However, there are some instances where adjustment is
necessary, such as when sewing light weight or heavy
weight fabrics.
1. With presser foot pressure set to "L", sew two layers of
eece together along the 6" side.
2. Adjust presser foot pressure to "H" and sew the
remaining layer of eece to the other 6" side of the
fabric used in previous step.
3. Determine which presser foot pressure setting resulted
in more even feeding of the material through the
machine.
4. Return the presser foot pressure to the normal setting.
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
3" x 6" polar fleece
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch
Standard
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
pReSSeR foot
pReSSURe
4 4 4 4 2�5 6 1 N L To h

13
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
For this exercise, the overlocker will be threaded for a wide
3-thread overlock stitch using only the left needle and
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path
on the overlocker. Adjust all thread tension settings for a
balanced stitch as indicated in chart below.
1. Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool,
remove the right needle and thread. Tighten the needle
set screw after removing the right needle. The left
needle will remain threaded.
2. Fold fabric in half to 3” x “6”. Stitch along the folded
edge of the fabric, trimming 1/4".
3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH-WIDE
Firm fabric, 6" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
3 Spools Serger Thread (Y, R, B)
3-
Thread Overlock Stitch (wide/narrow)
Standard
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
3- 4* / 4.5** 3.5 2�5 6 1 N
* b44
**b48

14
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
For this exercise, the overlocker will be threaded for a wide
3-thread atlock stitch using the left needle and thread
colors to match the color-coded threading path on the
overlocker. Adjust all thread tension settings for a atlock
stitch as indicated in chart below.
Note: If following instructions in the Mastery book,
the right needle was removed in the previous exercise
so you will skip Step 1.
1. Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool,
insert the left needle and remove the right needle.
Tighten the needle set screw after inserting or removing
needles.
2. Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 3” x 6”.
3. Place the fold under the presser foot. Guide the fabric
halfway between the left needle and the right edge of
the stitch nger. This method allows the fabric to lay
totally at under the stitches.
Optionally, you may choose to trim the folded edge
which will allow one fabric to lay on top of the other.
This is the preferred method if using the atlock stitch
as a seam.
4. Slowly sew the fabric. The looper threads will extend
beyond the fabric on the right side of fold.
5. Gently pull the fabric at.
3-THREAD FLATLOCK - WIDE
Firm fabric, 6" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
3 Spools Serger Thread (Y, B, R)
3-Thread Flatlock (wide)
Standard
Decorative Thread Tip: A heavy thread such as YLI Jeans
Stitch, Pearl Crown Rayon, or Designer 6 can be used in the
looper for a more decorative look. When working with heavy
decorative threads, loosen the upper looper tension and
lengthen the stitch length as needed for the desired look.
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
0 - 4.5 7.5* / 7** 2�5 6 1 N
* b44
**b48

15
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
For this exercise, you will thread the overlocker for a
3-thread narrow overlock stitch using the right needle and
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path
on the overlocker. Adjust all thread tension settings for a
balanced stitch as indicated below.
Note: If following instructions in the Mastery book,
the right needle was removed in the previous exercise
You will now be inserting the right needle and
removing the left to complete this exercise.
1. Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool,
loosen the right needle screw and insert the right
needle. Tighten the needle set screw. Thread the
needle.
2. Remove the left needle thread. Loosen the left needle
set screw and remove the left needle.
3. Fold the fabric in half to a 3" x 6" rectangle and stitch
along the fold of the fabric, trimming 1/4".
4. Using this same stitch, nish edge of one 6" side of the
fabric to see how the stitch looks on a single layer.
3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH NARROW
Firm fabric, 6" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (G, R, B)
3-
Thread Overlock Stitch (wide/narrow)
Standard
t hread tension set ting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
- 4*/4.5** 4*/ 4.5** 4 2�5 6 1 N
* b44
**b48

16
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
For this exercise, the overlocker will be threaded for a
narrow 3-thread atlock stitch using the right needle and
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path
on the overlocker. Adjust all thread tension settings for a
atlock stitch as indicated in chart below.
Note: If following instructions in the Mastery book,
the right needle was inserted and threaded, and the
left needle and thread was removed in the previous
exercise. If so, you will skip Steps 1 and 2.
1. Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool,
loosen the right needle screw and insert the right
needle. Tighten the needle set screw. Thread the
needle.
2. Remove the left needle thread. Loosen the left needle
set screw and remove the left needle.
3. Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 3” x 6”.
4. Place the fold under the presser foot. Guide the fabric
halfway between the left needle and the right edge of
the stitch nger. This method allows the fabric to lay
totally at under the stitches.
Optionally, you may choose to trim the folded edge
which will allow one fabric to lay on top of the other.
This is the preferred method if using the atlock stitch
as a seam.
5. Slowly sew the fabric. The looper threads will extend
beyond the fabric on the right side of fold.
6. Gently pull the fabric at.
3-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW
Firm fabric, 6" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
3 Spools Serger Thread (G, B, R)
3-Thread Flatlock (wide)
Standard
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
- 0 4.5 7.5* / 7** 2�5 6 1 N
Decorative Thread Tip: A heavy thread such as YLI Jeans
Stitch, Pearl Crown Rayon, or Designer 6 can be used in the
looper for a more decorative look. When working with heavy
decorative threads, loosen the upper looper tension and
lengthen the stitch length as needed for the desired look.
* b44
**b48

17
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
For this exercise, the overlocker will be threaded for a narrow
3-thread rolled hem stitch using the right needle. Thread
with colors to match the color-coded threading path on the
overlocker. Adjust all thread tension settings for a atlock
stitch as indicated in chart below.
Note: If following instructions in the Mastery book, the
right needle was inserted and threaded, and the left
needle and thread was removed in a previous exercise. If
so, you will skip Steps 1 and 2.
1.
Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool, loosen
the right needle screw and insert the right needle. Tighten
the needle set screw. Thread the needle.
2. Remove the left needle thread. Loosen the left needle set
screw and remove the left needle.
3. Disengage the stitch nger by placing the Rolled Hem
Selection Lever in the "R" position..
4.
Start the machine and run a chain for several inches so that
you have a thread tail to aid in getting the fabric started.
5. Place the fabric under the presser foot and sew along one
6” edge.
6.
Return stitch length and thread tensions to their normal setting.
7. Return the Rolled Hem Selection Lever to normal sewing position.
Optional: Thread the Upper Looper texturized nylon thread
in the upper looper. Loosen the Upper Looper tension slightly
from the settings listed below.
3-THREAD ROLLED HEM
Light weight fabric, 4" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
3 Spools serger thread (B, R, G)
3-thread rolled hem
Standard
• The Rolled Hem Selection Lever moves the
stitch nger in and out of position.
• Push the lever forward (N) for normal sewing
so the stitch can form over it, keeping the
fabric at.
• Pull the lever toward you (R) so the fabric
edge can roll when stitching a rolled edge.
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
- 4 4.5* / 4** 6.5* / 6** 15 1 r
(N) (R)
* b44
**b48

18
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
For this exercise, the overlocker will be threaded for a
2-thread rolled hem stitch using the right needle and
threaded with colors to match the color-coded threading
path on the overlocker. Adjust all thread tension settings for
a rolled hem stitch as indicated in chart below.
Note: If following instructions in the Mastery book, the
right needle was inserted and threaded, and the left
needle and thread was removed in the previous exercise.
If so, you will skip Steps1 and 2.
1. Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool,
loosen the right needle screw and insert the right
needle. Tighten the needle set screw. Thread the needle.
2. Remove the left needle thread. Loosen the left needle
set screw and remove the left needle.
3. Attach the Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper
See Diagram below.
4. Disengage the stitch nger by placing the Rolled Hem
Selection Lever in the "R" position.
5. Start the machine and run a chain for several inches so
that you have a thread tail to hold as an aid in getting
the fabric started.
6. Place the fabric under the presser foot and sew along
one 6” edge, trimming about 1/4" from the raw edge.
7. Return stitch length and thread tensions to their normal
setting.
8. Return the Rolled Hem Selection Lever to normal
sewing position.
2-THREAD ROLLED HEM
Light weight fabric, 4" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
2 Spools Serger Thread (red, green)
2-Thread Rolled Hem
Standard
Accessory: Upper Looper Converter
• To engage the Upper Looper
Converter, insert the sharp
part (1) into the eye of the
Upper Looper.
• A raised point located in the
trough of the Upper Looper
Converter must be inserted
and xed (2) in the eye of the
Upper Looper Converter.
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
- 4.5 CoNverTer 415 1 r

19
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
Thread the overlocker for a narrow 2-thread atlock stitch
u
sing the right needle and threaded with colors to match
the color-coded threading path on the overlocker. Adjust
all thread tension settings for a 2-thread atlock stitch as
indicated in chart below.
Note: If following instructions in the Mastery book, the
right needle was inserted and threaded, and the left
needle and thread was removed in the previous exercise.
If so, you will skip Steps 1 and 2.
1. Using the small screwdriver and needle insertion tool,
insert the left needle. Remove the right needle. Tighten
the needle set screw after removing the needle.
2.
Attach the Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper.
3. Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Place the fold under the
presser foot. Guide the fabric halfway between the left
needle and the right edge of the stitch nger. This method
allows the fabric to lay totally at under the stitches.
Optionally, you may choose to trim the folded edge which
will allow one fabric to lay on top of the other. This is the
preferred method if using the atlock stitch as a seam.
4. Slowly stitch the fabric. The looper threads will extend
beyond the fabric on the right side of fold.
5. Gently pull the fabric at. Note: Before the fabric is
pulled at to create the atlock stitch, the threads form
a 2-thread balanced stitch with the threads connecting
at the edge of the fabric. This stitch is not strong
enough for seaming, but can be used as an edge nish
for light to medium weight fabrics.
6. Using the small screwdriver and needle insertion tool,
insert the left needle. Tighten the needle set screw
after inserting the needle.
7. Remove the Upper Looper Converter. Return stitch
length and thread tension dials to normal.
8. Rethread the loopers and both needles.
2-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW
Firm fabric, 6" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
3 Spools Serger Thread (red, yellow)
2-Thread Flatlock (wide)
Standard
Accessory: Upper Looper Converter
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
- 0 CoNverTer 4.5*/4** 2�5 6 1 N

20
bernette OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK
Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock stitch using
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on
the machine. Adjust all thread tension settings as indicated
in the chart below.
1. Sew a 2”-3” thread chain without fabric.
2. Fold fabric in half to 3” x “6” and place under the
presser foot.
3.
Take 2-3 stitches on the fabric. Lower the needles into the
fabric. Raise the presser foot, and with your left hand gently
pull the thread chain around and in front of the needles to
the knife.
4. Lower the presser foot and sew over the thread chain
approximately 1", and then trim the thread chain with
the knife.
5. Continue stitching. At the end of the fabric, sew just
off the edge of the fabric. Carefully pull the threads off
the stitch nger by placing the Rolled Hem Selection
Lever in the "R" position temporarily.
6. Raise the presser foot and carefully turn the fabric over
so that the lower looper side of the previously stitched
seam will be overstitched.
7. Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the rst
stitch will enter the fabric when you begin stitching.
8. Engage the stitch nger by placing the Rolled Hem
Selection Lever back in the "N" position..
9. Sew for about 1”, overstitching the previous stitching.
Guide the fabric so as not to cut the previous stitching.
10. Raise the toe of the presser foot and rotate the fabric
90° clockwise.
11. Stitch off the edge of the fabric.
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: SECURING SEAMS
Firm fabric, 6" x 6"
80/12 ELx705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch
Standard
thread tension setting machine setup
Left
NeedLe
Right
NeedLe
UppeR
LoopeR
LoweR
LoopeR
Stitch
LeNgth
cUttiNg
width
diffeReNtiaL
feed
RoLLed hem
LeveR
4 4 4 4 2�5 6 1 N-r