
5
Fault Finding
16
Blue Seal Evolution Series Gas Griddle Ranges Electric Oven
Amendment 7
© Moffat Ltd, July 2015
5.2.4 No Oven Temperature Control
Thermostat Faulty
With thermostat in ‘Off’ (vertical) position, heating indicator
should be ‘Off’. If heating indicator is ‘On’, thermostat is faulty
- replace thermostat.
Check the thermostat phial is in the correct position and check
for a broken capillary tube - replace thermostat if damaged.
Place an accurate digital thermometer probe in centre of oven.
Set thermostat to 180°C.
Close oven door and allow oven thermostat to regain
temperature. If temperature overshoots by 50°C and continues
to rise, switch ‘Off’ and replace thermostat.
5.2.5 Bottom Element Not Working
Element Faulty
With thermostat ‘On’ and heating, and energy regulator set to
minimum (‘Off’) position, check voltage across bottom element
terminals at right hand side of oven. If voltage is correct, check
current draw of element. If there is no current draw, element is
faulty - replace bottom element.
NOTE: Correct Bottom Element Current Draw:
220—240V: 9.4A ± 5%.
Alternatively, disconnect wires from element terminals and
check the resistance of the element. An open circuit indicates
that the element has failed.
Correct Element Resistance: 25.6 Ohms.
5.2.6 Fan Does Not Operate
Thermostat Faulty
With door closed and thermostat and heating switched ‘On’,
check voltage at Terminal 5 of the thermostat.
If no voltage, thermostat is faulty - replace the thermostat.
If voltage is correct, check wiring to capacitor and fan motor.
Fan Motor Capacitor Faulty
Ensure oven is isolated from power supply. Disconnect all wires
from capacitor. Briefly short across capacitor to ensure it is
fully discharged.
Using a multimeter, measure across capacitor terminals.
Resistance should start low and quickly increase to infinity
within 5 - 10 seconds.
If resistance does not increase at all, capacitor is shorted -
replace capacitor.
If capacitor is infinite resistance straight away then is open-
circuit - replace capacitor.
If resistance never goes very high, capacitor is leaky - replace
capacitor.
Energy Regulator Faulty
Check voltage between terminal P1 and terminal 4 of energy
regulator. If no voltage present, check wiring.
With switch in ‘Off’ position there should be no voltage at
Terminal 2 (open circuit between Terminal P1 and Terminal 2).
With control set to a LO to HI heat setting, Terminal 2 should be
switched ‘On’. If Terminal 2 not switched ‘On’, energy regulator
is faulty - replace energy regulator.
The above checks can be made with or without electrical supply
switched ‘On’, with electrical supply turned ‘On’, Terminal 2
element supply will cycle ‘On’ / ‘Off’ at different time ranges
dependent on control setting.
To check for correct energy regulator ‘On’ / ‘Off’ cycling,
electrical supply needs to be switched ‘On’.
With control set to full ‘On’ (HI) position, Terminal 2 (power to
element) should be ‘On’ continuously. With control set to
position 2½, Terminal 2 (power to element) should cycle ‘On’ for
approximately 15 seconds and ‘Off’ for approximately 30
seconds.
Lower settings will give longer ‘Off’ times and shorter ‘On’ times,
whilst higher settings will give shorter ‘Off’ times and longer ‘On’
times.
Top Element Faulty
With thermostat ‘On’ and heating, and energy regulator set to
maximum position, check voltage across top element terminals
at right hand side of oven. If voltage is correct, check current
draw of element. If there is no current draw, element is faulty -
replace top element.
NOTE: Correct Top Element Current Draw:
220—240V: 12.5A ± 5%.
Alternatively, disconnect wires from the element terminals and
check resistance of element. An open circuit indicates that the
element has failed.
Correct Element Resistance: 19.2 Ohms.
5.2.3 No Top Heat / Too Much Top Heat