bohm Rocket L1 User manual

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L1- The Rocket

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Tools and equipment
The following tools - not included in the set -
should be kept on hand for the assembly of this set: Allen key SW
1,5, Needle-tip tweezers, Allen key SW 2,5, Torx keys 6, 8 , 10.
You will also require additional color paint and glue.
Included in the set for kits, you will find: 1 ceramic paste syringe,
1 holder plate for aligning pin, 1 drive punch for releasing the
aligning pin,
1xfluid oil 12, 1 x ball bearing glue Super Glue instant adhesive!
Assembly (front = chimney on the right)
1 - Manually carefully insert a bearing (13) into both sides of the
rocker arm (37). Take the rocker arm axis
(34) and push a locking washer (30) on the short side with
a clearance groove. Drive the rocker arm axis (34)
into the rocker arm (37) through the side of the aluminum case, so
that the
long end of the rocker arm axis (34) protrudes from the rear. Attach
the rocker arm axis (34) to the rocker arm (37) with another locking
washer (30). Here you should observe the fact that
the rocker arm (37) may not be attached tightly onto the rocker arm
axis (34)
between both locking washers (30). Some play should remain (see
Figure 1)
2 - Glue respectively one bearing (13+14) degreased on the outside
in the degreased side part holes (66 + 67) - flush with the outside
(sunken side) - using super glue (73)
(only put a little glue in a circle around the drill hole of theside part).
30 minute curing!! (see Figure 2)
3 - Press in the displacement piston cover (25) into the
displacement piston (24),
then screw into the displacement axis (23) with lacquer / glue on the
thread. Carefully remove any overflowing glue using a cloth, then
let it dry. (see Figure 3)
4 - Insert the sleeve (49) into chamber 1 (38), so that the sleeve (49)
may not fall out. (see Figure 4)
5 - Insert the assembled displacement piston (24) into the chamber 1
(38). If the chamber 1 (38) is held vertically, the displacement piston
(24) should fall in by itself - it should not jam. (see Figure 5)
6 - Place the heating cylinder (47) in the middle of chamber 1 (38)
and attach with the screws (9) 4x. (see Figure 6)
7 - Connect the shorter connecting rod (28) with the crankshaft (27)
using the aligning pin (11), the holding plate (76) and needle-tip
tweezers, then connect to the displacement axle (23) of chamber 1
(38).
PLEASE BE CAREFUL: The slip surface of the displacement axle
(23)
should not be damaged! (see Figure 7)
8 - Insert the piston guide (48) into the large hole of chamber 1 (38)
so that the small outer drill hole of the piston guide (48)
points in the direction of the heating cylinder (47).
Plug the chamber ring 1 (41) onto chamber 1 (38) and screw on
to the upper drill hole of the chamber ring 1 (41) with a screw (6) 1x
in order to properly center and fixate the piston guide (48) into
chamber 1 (38).
Then proceed to screwing in the other screws (4) 8x into
chamber 1 (38). (see Figure 8)
9 - Finally, plug the chamber ring 2 (42) onto
chamber 1 (38) after having driven the crankshaft (27) through.
Then, connect chamber 1 (38) and chamber 2 (39)
using the screws (9) 2x. Take care to not damage the crankshaft
(27) and that the sleeve (49) is located in chamber 1 (38).
(see Figure 9)
10 - Drive the second chamber ring 2 (42) over the crankshaft (27).
Take chamber 3 (40) with the large slot pointing down over the
crankshaft (27) and plug the chamber ring 2 (42) onto it.
Here it is important that you take care to point the sunk sides of
both connecting rods (28/29) of the crankshaft (27) forward!
Now, connect chamber 2 (39) and chamber 3 (40) using the
screws (9) 2x. (see Figure 10)
11 - Lightly screw on the rocker arm plates (71/72) on the right and
left
onto chamber 2 (39) with the screws (4) 4x and make sure the flame
is correctly positioned.
Screw the assembled rocker arm (37) between
both rocker arm plates (71/72) using the screws (4) 2x. It should be
ensured that both rocker arms (37) point upward.
Then, tighten all 6 screws (4). (see Figure 11)
12 - Connect the short connecting rods (26) and the working piston
(22) using the aligning pin (11).
WARNING: The wall thickness of the working piston (22) is very thin,
therefore do not use tweezers - one drill hole is usually smoother
than the other! (see Figure 12)
13 - Drive the previously assembled working piston (22) into the
piston guide (48). It is important that the sunken side of the
connecting rod (26) points forward.
Attach the working piston (22) and attached connecting rod (26)
to the rocker arm (37). Push in a black bearing bush (10) into the
connecting rod (26) from behind and screw in from the front using a
screw (8). Only tighten very lightly using a 3 cNm torque, since
excess torque will crush the black bearing bush (10), leading to
braking and blockage! (see Figure 13)
14 - Insert bearings (12) 6x in chamber 1 (38), chamber 2 (39) and
chamber 3 (40). Make sure that the bearings do not fall out.
Assemble both locking washers (30) with both belt pulley axes (31).
The first assembled belt pulley axle (31) goes into the bearing (12)
on chamber 1 (38) from behind.
The belt pulley wheel (44) is assembled onto the belt pulley axle (31)
that points outward to the front using a screw (3). There should be a
spacing of 0,2mm between the front bearing (12) and the belt pulley
wheel 1 (44) (this corresponds to 2 sheets of paper).
The second assembled belt pulley axle (31) is inserted in the bearing
(12) on chamber 2 (39) from the rear.
The belt pulley wheel 2 (45) is attached to the belt pulley axle (31)
that protrudes
towards the front using a screw (3). There should be a spacing of
0,2mm between the front bearing (12) and the belt pulley wheel 2
(45). (see Figure 14)
15 - Then, the axis (32) goes through the bearing (12) at the front of
chamber 3 (40), through thefirst cam of the
crankshaft (27) and is screwed there so that the axle (32) does not
overlap further than the cam of the crankshaft (27).
Then, the axle (33) goes through the ball bearing (12) at the rear of
chamber 3 (40) and the second cam of the crankshaft (27) and is
screwed so that the axle (33) does not overlap further over the cam.
Attach the connecting rod (29) with the rocker arm (37). Push in a
black bearing bush (10) into the connecting rod (26) from behind and
screw in from the front using a screw (8). Only tighten very lightly
using a 3 cNm torque, since excess torque will crush the black
bearing bush (10), leading to braking and blockage!
The chamber ring 3 (43) is plugged onto chamber 3 (40) and
screwed on with screws (4) 8x. (see Figure 15)
16 - Take the left side frame (66) and screw respectively one spacer
axle (36) onto the outer right and left drill holes towards the front with
screws (4) 2x.
Laythe left side frame (66) on a table so that the spacer axles (36)
are oriented upward. Next, a spacer axle (36) is screwed on the
lower floor plate (69) using a screw (4) so that the bent side points in
the same direction as the spacer axle (36). Plug the left assembled
floor plate (69) in both small slots of the left side frames (66). Then
proceed to plugging the other floor plate (68) on the bottom centered
in the other small slots.
Make sure that the bent part is oriented to the right.
Push the spring (1) onto the assembled spacer axle (36) of the floor
plate (69). The trailer coupling (64) is placed above using the drill
hole so that the right spacer axle (36) goes through the left side
frame (66). The spacer axle (36) that points downward from the floor
plate (69) should then immediately be driven through the groove of
the trailer coupling (64). It is subsequently screwed from below with
a screw (4).
The right side frame(67) goes onto the left side frame (66)
and is attached with screws (4) 2x. (see Figure 16)
17 - The assembled chamber is screwed to the assembled side
frames using screws (4) 4x. (see Figure 17)
18 - The small brass wheel (52) and small plastic wheel (55/56) is
attached with screws (2) 8x. The screws may only be lightly
tightened since excess torque will tear the thread from the
plastic wheel.
Create this assembly 2x since they are 2 pairs. Depending on
requirements, the plastic wheels for Lehmann (56) or
Märklin (55) are screwed on.
Respectively 2 O-belts (19) are pulled onto each small assembled
plastic wheel (55/56).
(see Figure 18)
19 - The large brass wheel (51) and large plastic wheel (53/54) is
attached with the screws (2) 12x. The screws may only be lightly
tightened since excess torque will tear the thread from the
plastic wheel.
Create this assembly 2x since they are 2 pairs. Depending on
requirements, the plastic wheels for Lehmann (54) or
Märklin (53) are screwed on.

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Two O-belts (18) are placed on one large assembled plastic wheel
(53/54).
On the other one, only one O-belt (18) is placed on the front in the
first groove. (see Figure 19)
20 - Now, the drive axle (35) is driven through the large plastic wheel
(53/54) along with both O-belts (18) and screwed with screw (3) so
that it sits flush. Then, another spacer sleeve (20/77) goes onto the
drive axle (35). The assembled drive axle (35) goes through the left
side frame (66), onto the ball bearing (14) under the assembled
chamber and is equipped with a further spacer sleeve (20/77) on the
other side. Then, the large plastic wheel (53/54) is plugged onto the
drive axle (35) with another O-belt (18) and screwed on with the
screw (3). It is important that you leave a 0,2mm space before the
second wheel (53/54) is secured. The same assembly is then
performed on the ball bearing (13) with the small plastic wheels
(55/56). (see Figure 20)
21 - Push the spacer sleeve (21) on the rear of the axle (33) followed
by the flywheel (50) and secure them with a screw (3). It is important
that you attach the flywheel (50) flush with the axle (33).
Plug the belt pulley 3 (46) on the axle (32) and screw it in with the
screw (3), taking care that the space between the ball bearing (12)
and the belt pulley 3 (46) is of 0,2mm.
Both holding plates (70) are pushed into the left side of the left side
frame (66) in the two adapted slots to the right and left. Press the
holding plates (70) down manually so that they cannot fall out
sideways. (see Figure 21)
22 - Pull the O-belt (17) on the rear groove of the large plastic wheel
(53/54) and on the rear small groove
of the belt pulley 1 (44).
Pull the O-belt (16) over the belt pulley 3 (46) and the belt pulley 2
(45) around the rear groove.
Now the O-belt (15) goes into the rear groove of belt pulley 1 (44)
and in the front groove of belt pulley 2 (45). (see Figure 22)
23 - The pipe holder (57) is attached to the front of chamber 3 (40)
using the screws (7) 2x.
Pipe coil 1 (61) is plugged over pipe bush 1 (58). Subsequently,
place a drop of instant adhesive (73) in the inner heel of pipe bush 2
(59) which is then placed on pipe bush 1 (58). Carefully wipe off any
overflowing glue with a cloth and let it dry.
The pipe coil 2 (62) goes onto pipe bush 2 (59), which are then glued
to the inner heels (73) of pipe bush 3 (60) using a drop of glue. Here,
also only use one drop. Carefully wipe off any overflowing glue with
a cloth and let it dry.
Next, a drop of instant adhesive (73) is placed in the inner heel of
pipe coil 3 (60), onto which the pipe crown (63) is then placed.
Carefully wipe off any overflowing glue with a cloth and let it dry.
Place the glued pipe in the pipe holder (57) and screw in with a
screw (4).
Pull off the lid of the ethyl alcohol burner (65) with sufficient force,
insert a wick, then replace the lid. Enlarge the wick by approx. 3mm.
Close the ethyl alcohol burner (65)
on the floor plate (68). (see Figure 23)
24 - Perform the first test run WITHOUT lubricant, then: rub off a
minimal amount of white ceramic paste between your thumb and
index finger until almost no paste is visible. Now place a thin film on
the working piston (22) using your index finger. Insert the working
piston (22) into the piston guide (48) and move back and forth. First,
release the working piston (22) from the crankshaft (27). The
working piston (22) may not scratch or jam! Oil should not enter the
working piston (22) under any circumstance! Place a small droplet of
oil (Ø1mm) from the provided syringe onto the displacement axle
(23) and onto the crankshaft axle (27) (after 1st test run).
25 - PLEASE NOTE: A small impact of theflywheel (50) is normal
and inevitable in this assembly (it is no grounds for a warranty
claim!).
26 - Never unscrew the grub screws of the crankshaft (27)! The
crankshaft can only be aligned using special equipment from the
manufacturer!
WARNING: The loco should only be operated under
constant supervision by persons over 18 years of age.
Easily flammable objects should not be kept in the vicinity
of the demonstration area. Do not touch the heating cylinder
or the flame area as this could cause burning.
Handle denaturated alcohol carefully. Never leave alcohol
bottles open.
Inappropriate use of the loco can lead to fires! NEVER in
CHILDREN’S HANDS!!!
The legal regulations for open fires apply when operating
the device!
Operating instructions
1 – Set up the loco in a draught-free place with flat floor/ table
surface.
2 – Remove the lid of the aluminum burner can and fill up to the
marking with 94% denaturated alcohol(fresh fluid!!!).
WARNING: The denaturated alcohol bottle should always be
closed again and tidied away:::Danger of explosion:::.
3 – Light the wick. Wick must be out of burner 5mm and be
good bushy.
4 – Wait approx. 30 seconds for good heat.
• Never leave the loco without supervision.
Maintenance/ Cleaning
Oil got on the working piston (56)? (After longer standstill
possible):
Please towel the working piston with a lint-free cloth and as well
its working piston bush (13).
Never re-apply oil, oil has an adhesive effect and stops the loco
from moving! The loco should be stored in a dust-free
environment. The smallest pollution can stop the motor from
functioning. The adjustments are in the H7-area. All mobile
mechanical parts should be free-moving or the motor will not
run! Be careful when disassembling – some parts have
thicknesses of less than 0,25 mm.
In case of problems visit the following link
http://www.boehm-stirling.com/tl_files/stirling-
technik.de/images/Antwort%20Wartungshinweise%20Deuts
ch.pdf or read yellow paper Note in the box.
In case of technical questions please contact us at
E-mail: [e-mail]
Internet: www.boehm-stirling.com
The propulsion principle of the Stirling motor
The burner heats the air contained in a closed circuit. Due to
thermal expansion, the working cylinder and the flywheel are
kept in motion. As the working cylinder moves in direction of the
wheels, the displacing cylinder is pushed from the boiler into the
heating cylinder. Since the displacement body has no seal, the
hot air is moved past its outer wall into the front part of the boiler.
Since the temperature there is approx. 300°C lower (volume
reduction), the cooled air creates a vacuum that sucks the
working cylinder back out and maintains the flywheel’s motion.
The rotating movement pulls the displacing cylinder back into the
cooling rib part, allowing for a quick streaming of the cooled air
from this chamber into the heating cylinder. The air heats again,
expands and provides work once again.

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