Butler Sun Solutions SOLAR SIX PACK Series User manual

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Pictorial Installation Guide: Solar Six PackTM Water Heating System Plus Tankless Option
SOLAR SIX PACKTM
WATER HEATING SYSTEM
PICTORIAL INSTALLATION GUIDE
31 October 2018
Butler Sun Solutions
1545 S La Cienega Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90035
213-533-1006
www.butlersunsolutions.com
The Butler Sun Solutions Solar Six PackTM water heating system is a state-of-the-art
solar
water heating system that augments your existing water heater. This system can save over 2,400
pounds of CO2 production per year compared to a conventional water heater, making hot water
from clean sunlight. It is like having an oil well on your roof producing 2.5 barrels of oil per year
(but without the pollution from burning the oil!).
The Solar Six PackTM system has been designed for easy installation by either a
professional contractor or a do-it-yourselfer. This guide is designed to lead you through the
installation of the system in a simplified manner. It includes a pictorial summary of the
installation steps, followed by explanations of each step. For a complete description with
detailed instructions, our System Installation Manual is available on our website. We hope you
enjoy bathing and washing with hot water provided by the sun!
Yoni Ghermezi, Licensed Manufacturer of Butler
Sun Solutions Products

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Contents
STEP 0. WAND & SYSTEM CERTIFICATIONS.......................................................................3
PICTORIAL SUMMARY OF INSTALLATION STEPS................................................................5
STEP 1. FAMILIARIZE AND PLAN ..........................................................................................7
STEP 2. SOLAR COLLECTOR ALIGNMENT AND MOUNTING ..........................................7
STEP 3. SPOCTM MOUNTING..................................................................................................8
STEP4. ROUTING THE UMBILICAL TO OR THROUGH THE ROOF .................................8
STEP 5. MAKING UMBILICAL CONNECTIONS ON THE ROOF.........................................8
STEP 6. COVER INSULATION & WIRES WITH UV PROTECTION.....................................9
STEP 7. INSTALL SOLAR WANDTM INTO HOT WATER TANK......................................10
STEP 8. MOUNT THE PUMP BOX..........................................................................................13
STEP 9. CONNECT UMBILICAL TO TOP OF PUMP BOX...................................................13
STEP 10. CONNECT PUMP BOX TO SOLAR WANDTM & INSTALL TANK TOP OVER-
TEMPERATURE SENSOR...........................................................................................................13
STEP 11. WATER FLUSHING SYSTEM & FILLING WITH ANTIFREEZE ......................14
STEP 12. TANK BLANKET THERMAL INSULATION.......................................................17
STEP 12.A OPTIONAL INSTALLATION OF TANKLESS WATER HEATER.....................17
STEP 13. CONNECT POWER TO PUMP BOX AND VERIFY OPERATION .....................18
APPENDIX 1. TOOLS OF THE TRADE...................................................................................19

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STEP 0. WAND & SYSTEM CERTIFICATIONS
This product certified by:
Solar Rating & Certification
Corporation™
www.Solar-Rating.org
Butler Sun Solutions
1545 S. La Cienega Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90035
USA
Solar Energy Factor
(SEFD)
SRCC Cert. No.
Model No.
1
1
1.1
0.9
1.4
1.4
1.4
30004257
30004258
30004260
30004271
30004274
30004272
30004273
B-BT1-40-I
B-SUN-TRB40-40-I
B-BT1-50-I
B-BT1-30-I
BT1-30-I-T
BT1-40-I-T
BT1-50-I-T
The installed system is marked above
An overview of the systems designated 30004257, 30004258, 30004260 and 30004271 are the same
solar systems with different sized existing tanks. The major components are shown for reference
purposes in Figures 0.2.1. An overview of the systems designated 30004274, 30004272 and 30004273
are the same solar systems with different sized existing tanks and a tankless water heater installed on
the hot water storage tank outlet to the house. The major components are shown for reference
purposes in Figures 0.2.2. The system has been engineered for easy installation. The system can be
configured two way to meet the ICC-SRCC OG-300 Certifications. The first is the solar only pictorial
version shown in Figures 0.2.1. This is the most common version of the systems that are installed and

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are fully represented in the step by step instructions. The second option, Figures 0.2.2 which has a
tankless water heater after the solar heated hot water storage tank. This version captures more solar
energy, because gas to the hot water storage tank in limited, so the solar wand is heating cooler water.
The tankless comes on to boost the temperature of hot water exiting the storage tank to the house, only
when needed, thus reducing the natural gas use and increases the amount of solar energy captured.
Figure 0.2.1 BSS Solar Six Pack™ Solar Hot Water System Overviews
Figure 0.2.2 BSS Solar Six Pack™ Solar Hot Water System Overviews Plus a Tankless Diagram

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PICTORIAL SUMMARY OF INSTALLATION STEPS

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STEP 1. FAMILIARIZE AND PLAN
Step 1A: Open the boxes, lay out all of the parts, and be sure that you can identify them all.
Look over the packing list to verify everything is included.
Step 1B: Check that the collector adaptor set (provided with the kit) is appropriate for the
collectors and configuration proposed for your system. If in doubt, contact us.
STEP 2. SOLAR COLLECTOR ALIGNMENT AND MOUNTING
Step 2A: Determine where you are going to mount the solar collector to minimize the distance
from the water tank to the collector and optimize the solar orientation of the system. The ideal
orientation of the solar collector for maximum annual energy delivery is tilted at your latitude
angle towards true South, with no shading of the collectors.
Step 2B: Determine how the collectors will be mounted, based on the type of roof you have:
flat or pitched, composition shingle, wood shakes, concrete tile, or clay tile. For flat roofs you
need a tilt kit for flat plate collectors or a rack for evacuated tubes. You should follow local
codes for attaching the solar collectors to the roof. Our complete installation manual on our
website shows the Housing and Urban Development Guidelines.
Step 2C: Mount the solar collectors sturdily to the roof, being sure that the highest point in the
solar collector is fitted with the SPOCTM connection. Steam only goes uphill, so “Landscape”-
oriented collectors must be tilted up by about 4”over 8 feet. This will ensure that steam can
escape from the nearly horizontal tubes without pushing a lot of water in front of it. “Portrait”
collectors must be tilted about 2˚(1 full bubble, or 0.5 in/ft). Some collector adapters need to be

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soldered to the solar collectors. It is easiest to do this before the collector is brought to the roof,
or at least before you tie down the solar collector. Adapters that screw on should also be
installed before the collector is tied down. The following pictures illustrate the collector
adapters used with Butler Sun 1 flat plate collectors.
Figure 1. Butler Sun Flat Plate Adapter Kit Usage
STEP 3. SPOCTM MOUNTING
Step 3A: After the collector is mounted, with the adapters in place, it is time to put the SPOCTM
in place. The SPOC™is mounted parallel and even with the top of the collector by placing lifting
brackets screwed into the collector side wall, self- tapping screws through the straps that hold the
SPOC™onto the lifting brackets, See Figure 3. The radiator cap must be at the top, and the
radiator section should slope slightly downward towards the collector connection.
Step 3B: Use the short length of black hose provided to connect the SPOCTM to the collector
outlet Tee-fitting. Be sure to put the hose on the port that is labeled SPOC™and not where the
collector outlet hose gets connected.
STEP4. ROUTING THE UMBILICAL TO OR THROUGH THE ROOF
Step 4A: Plan the route of the umbilical from the collectors to the water tank. This may mean
going through an attic or crawl space. Typically, the umbilical penetrates through the roof below
the bottom of the solar collector. In some cases, it is possible to avoid a roof penetration by
routing it around the eaves. Doing this properly will save time and money.
Step 4B: If you must make a roof penetration, use flashing found at your local building supply
store, which will meet local roofing codes. Commercial “Roof Jack” flashing is designed to
prevent rain water from entering the house and vermin from using the penetration as a pathway.
Make sure that the flashing is fitted and sealed to the roof properly with roof tar or proper
sealants that meet local code, See Figures 4 & 8.
STEP 5. MAKING UMBILICAL CONNECTIONS ON THE ROOF
Step 5A: First, make all of the fluid connections. Connect the outlet hose to the fluid outlet near
the highest point on the solar collector. Before installing the hoses put tape on one hose and

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blow through it to identify the other end, which should also be taped. Then you will be able to
distinguish which hose is connected from the collector outlet to the Solar Wand™top and which
is connected from the pump outlet to collector bottom inlet. Make sure that all hose clamps are
tight.
Step 5B: Now lay out the electrical connecting plug and see where you can conveniently mount
the PV panel. Once you have a location that allows the PV panel to be plugged into the umbilical
connector, mount the PV panel with the screws provided.
STEP 6. COVER INSULATION & WIRES WITH UV PROTECTION
Step 6A: Fit up the metal, ABS or PVC UV protection and elbows, being sure that you have
covered all exposed wires and umbilical on the roof and side walls; See Figure 6. The UV
protection is designed to support the umbilical and protect it from UV sunlight. We recommend
downspout material since it has 40+ year life in outdoor environments, is rigid, can be easily
fastened to walls, and can be painted to match the surroundings. If umbilical supports are needed
you will need to add them.
Step 6B: Tighten all of the hose clamp connections on the collector fittings. You should leave
them exposed so you can see them when you fill the system with fluid to verify that they do not
leak.
Step 6C: After you have verified that the connections are not leaking, secure the UV cladding

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with the screws provided.
STEP 7. INSTALL SOLAR WANDTM INTO HOT WATER TANK
Step 7A: Check for obstructions in the hot water tank’s hot water outlet port. Some tanks have
restrictions below the opening that will not allow the Solar WandTM to be inserted. If the tank
has a separate port on top for the sacrificial anode, there will not be an anode under the hot
water outlet. You will need to check the port, first turn the tank electric power or gas off, so it
does not heat while you are working on it. Next, turn off the cold water valve which pressurizes
the tank and open a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure. Then check the nipple from the hot
water outlet. If the nipple has a sacrificial anode attached to it, go to get a new tank. If it is just
a simple threaded nipple, then look in and (if the water is cool enough) stick your finger in the
opening to be sure that there are no obstructions under the fitting. If you do not find any
obstructions, clean the threads with a wire brush or a ¾” National Pipe Thread Tap. Once
cleaned out you may be ready to put the Solar WandTM in place after you complete the next step.
Step 7B: Check the sacrificial anode in the tank. If the tank is only a few years old this may not
be necessary. If the tank is more than five years old, it is strongly recommended. Replacing a
bad anode will add another five to seven years to your tank’s life. A good LED flashlight will
allow you to see the anode condition within the tank. If you have one, it is handy to use an
inspection scope such as the one shown in the following figure. The pictures to the left in the
picture below show anodes in various states of usage. The one on the far left is new, the one in
the center is well used but still providing protection to the tank, and the one on the right is down
to just the central wire. If the anode is showing the central wire, it should be replaced. If it is
down to just the wire , you might consider replacing the tank since the anode has stopped
providing any protection and the tank may be compromised.

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Step 7C: If you do not have enough head room over the tank to insert the Solar WandTM, you
have a couple of choices. One is to drain about half the water out of the tank, remove the
earthquake straps and other connections and tilt the tank over to insert the Solar WandTM. If it is
a gas tank you can sometimes slide the Solar WandTM up the flue and then slide it down into the
tank. Finally, if the umbilical is routed through the ceiling, you can slide the Solar WandTM up
through the hole made for the umbilical to come through.
Step 7D: If there is an obstruction below the hot water outlet fitting you must replace the hot
water tank with one that has a clean hot water outlet. Under no circumstances should the hot
water tank outlet fitting be modified in any way by drilling or filing. This type of modification
is not allowed, since the ANSI Z21.10.1 pressure certification would be compromised.

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Step 7F: Mixing (also called “tempering”) valves are needed on solar hot water systems to limit
the temperature of the hot water delivered from the system to the house. Water temperatures in
solar storage tanks can reach 180°F (82°C) or more, but temperatures above 120°F (50°C) can
cause scalding in sinks, showers or baths. The mixing valve senses the temperature of hot water
being drawn from the tank and automatically mixes in cold water to reduce the temperature
delivered to the house to a preset value below 120°F (50°C).
Be sure that the mixing valve you are using meets your local code requirements. You may not
need mixing valves in new homes that have shower valves with built-in anti-scald control
features. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the installation of the mixing
valve. We recommend installing isolation valves around the mixing valve to facilitate service.
These valve are time savers, but not required.
When done with the rest of the system installation, verify again that all joints remain leak-free.
Then, insulate the hot water line coming from the tank. In California, you are required to
insulate the last 1.5 m (5 feet) of the cold-water line to the tank to limit heat losses by conduction
from that line as well. If 1.5m is not exposed, i.e. in a wall, cover the exposed portion. The
same is true for hot water outlet piping.
Adjust the knob on top of the mixing valve to obtain the desired hot water temperature in the
house. Note that the adjustment at the mixing valve will take precedence over the setpoint of the
tank, so if you increase the tank setpoint temperature, the water going to the house may not get
hotter unless you also increase the setting of the mixing valve.
Many local building codes now require the addition of an expansion tank on the hot water line,
and insulating jackets on the water heaters, See Figure 12. Check with your local code
authority.
Step 7G: The tank is now ready to put back in service. For gas hot water tanks, relight the pilot,
then set the gas thermostat to 125℉ (51.7℃). Tank manufactures recommend that the customer
can adjust to suit their needs. Turning the thermostat toward the Low to Warm 80℉-90℉
(26.6℃-32.2℃) range will improve solar performance. Going above the 125℉ (51.7℃) set point
is not recommended because the mixing valve will bring temperature back to the 120℉ (48.9℃)
the mixing valve set point.
For electric tanks, restore the power by turning on the beaker and, set the top thermostat at 125℉
(51.7℃) and the bottom thermostat at 125℉ (51.7℃). Tank manufactures recommend that the
customer can adjust to suit their needs. Turning the thermostats toward the 90℉ (32.2℃) range
will improve solar performance. Going above the 125℉ (51.7℃) set point is not recommended
because the mixing valve will bring temperature back to the 120℉ (48.9℃) the mixing valve set
point.

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STEP 8. MOUNT THE PUMP BOX
Step 8A: Find a location for the pump box on an inside or outside wall near the top of the tank.
Mounting near eye level makes reading the gauges and lights convenient. Use the screws
provided to secure the pump box to the wall or you can hang it on the upper tank earthquake
strap. If you can’t hit a stud, you may have to use dry wall anchor screws (not provided). The
pump box and control box have been manufactured to be outdoor weather resistant. Drip
shields are used to protect the pump motor, and potted components in the control box are
designed to keep out moisture. Use common sense, don’t place where sprinklers for the lawn
can drench the pump and controls.
STEP 9. CONNECT UMBILICAL TO TOP OF PUMP BOX
Step 9A: Route the umbilical carefully to the top of the pump box. It should be supported to
keep it from sagging along its length and not be subjected to sharp bends that could kink the
rubber hoses.
Step 9B: Connect the marked collector inlet line to the top of the pump box and
tighten the hose
clamp securely.
Step 9C: The other marked hose comes from the outlet (top) of the collector and attaches to the top
hose barb on the Solar WandTM ; tighten the hose clamp securely.
Step 9D: Do NOT connect the electrical power connector to the top of the box at this time.
Connecting this power lead will power up the pump, and if the rotor is not lubricated by the
antifreeze fluid or water it can damage the pump. A damaged pump caused by running dry is not
covered under warranty.
STEP 10. CONNECT PUMP BOX TO SOLAR WANDTM & INSTALL TANK

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TOP OVER-TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Step 10A: Connect the lower hose connector of the Solar WandTM to the bottom of the pump
box using a short length of hose, and tighten the hose clamps on both ends securely
Step 10B: Route the sensor wire from the Over-Temperature Control Box to the hot water tank.
The thermostatic switch should be placed on bare metal close to the top of the tank, but not on the
Solar Wand™. The Temperature/Pressure relief valve is an easy place to put it, as shown in the
following photo. It must be covered with insulation so the metal sensing surface does not get
cooled by air passing over it. Other temperature sensors are thermistors or digital temperature
sensors. They can be placed against the tank between the tank and insulation. A screwdriver can
be used to create a space between the insulation and the tank wall in which to place the sensor, as
shown below. Control should be set to 185℉ (85℃) and will automatically reset at 145℉
(62℃).
STEP 11. WATER FLUSHING SYSTEM & FILLING WITH ANTIFREEZE
Step 11A: Fill the system with tap water using a garden hose and a set of washing machine
hoses. One washer hose attaches to the upper fill valve (A) above the pump, and a washer hose
attaches to the lower valve (B) to be used as a drain. Open both valves and turn on the hose to fill
the system and flush any dirt or debris out of it. There is a check valve in the pump that prevents
“short-circuiting”between the valves, so water should enter the fill valve, go up through the
collector, back down through the Solar WandTM, and exit from the drain valve. When the water is
flowing clear with no bubbles or debris, then turn off the hose faucet first, then both valves A&B,
and remove the hose adapters.

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Step 11B: After the system is filled with water, verify that the pump operates by plugging in the
umbilical power cord to the pump box and shorting the contacts of the overtemperature switch to
energize the pump. Verify the correct LED lights come on, and if it is sunny, watch the
temperature gauge for increased temperature indicating that circulation is occurring (see Step 13
for more details). Check all system fittings for leaks and tighten hose clamps as needed. Finally,
disconnect the lead on the overtemperature switch again to stop the pump while you fill the
system with antifreeze.
Step 11C: The antifreeze recommended for Butler Sun
Solutions systems is Peak Sierra™Pet-
Safe antifreeze. Most NAPA Auto Parts stores carrythis antifreeze. It is a propylene glycol-
based antifreeze that is phosphate-free, has nontoxic inhibitors, and can be safelydisposed of in a
sanitary sewer. DO NOT USE ETHYLENE GLYCOL ANTIFREEZE. Antifreeze that has
ethylene glycol is toxic and its use will void your warranty. Before you substitute other
propylene glycol antifreeze products, be sure that they have similar viscosities and are not loaded
with buffers that can make them like molasses in cold climates. Recommended disposal is in a
dry well, where it will break down into harmless substances in 24 hours.

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Step 11D: A manual pump is used to flush out the tap water and fill the system with antifreeze
solution (see figure above). If it is very sunny, it is a good idea to cover the solar collectors with
a tarp or blanket to keep the system from boiling while you are filling it. There is no need to
access or remove the radiator cap. First, fill the pressure sprayer one third full with propylene
glycol and then continue to fill it with one third water to dilute the antifreeze 50%/50% by
volume. It is OK to mix it a little stronger (e.g., 60% glycol/40% water) because some water
will remain in the system after flushing. A typical system will require between one and two
gallons of antifreeze mix.
Step 11D: Pump up the reservoir of the garden sprayer charging pump to 40 psi. Then, connect
the sprayer pump to the fill valve A .
Step 11E: Open the fill valve Aand the drain valve Bon the pump box. Direct the drain hose
to a bucket.
Step 11F: Actuate the valve on the charging pump to begin pumping antifreeze into the system.
The antifreeze should circulate up through the collector and back down through the Solar
Wand™, pushing the water out ahead of it and out the drain valve B. Watch the level of fluid in
the sprayer pump reservoir and stop filling and refill sprayer pump reservoir as needed to avoid
pumping air into the system.

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Step 11G: Watch the fluid coming out of the drain line, and stop when it changes from clear to
green, indicating that the system is fully filled with antifreeze. Close valves Aand B then close
the garden sprayer valve.
Step 11H: Note and mark the level of fluid in the sprayer pump reservoir . Now open valve A
while leaving valve Bclosed. Actuate the valve on the sprayer pump to pump fluid through the
radiator cap into the overflow reservoir of the SPOC™system on the roof. Continue to add
fluid until about ½ gallon of fluid has been added to the reservoir.
Step 11I: Close the fill valve Aon the pump box and disconnect the sprayer pump. Remove the
drain line and store it with the hose fittings for use if the system needs to be drained and refilled at
some time in the future. Install the pressure gauge on the upper valve fitting (A) and open the
valve to allow it to operate.
STEP 12. TANK BLANKET THERMAL INSULATION
Many local building codes have added the requirement for an insulating blanket be added to the
water heater when solar is added, See Figure 12. The CSI-Thermal rebate program requires
insulating to hot water outlet piping and cold-water inlet piping or 5 feet or as far as is practical.
Earthquake straps and hot water expansion tank are required by many local codes. Follow your
local codes.
STEP 12.A OPTIONAL INSTALLATION OF TANKLESS WATER HEATER
The tankless water heater used must be modulating, or solar ready. This means that it only applies
enough heat to warm the solar storage tank water from its temperature to 120°F for household use.
It the solar heated hot water storage tank is above 120°F the tankless will not come on. For the
solar systems with tankless add on, the gas is diverted from the main hot water storage tank and
used to fuel the tankless water heater. Thus shutting off all gas to the solar storage tank gas valve
and main burner, so the pilot light is out also. The tankless water heater must be properly vented
and meet all local codes and standards.
The tankless water heater needs to be installed as shown below. A set of three isolation valves
should be installed, so the tankless system can be isolated and system returned to solar only if the
tankless needs service for any reason. Tankless systems need to be flushed with vinegar to
remove calcium buildup. The amount of Calcium and Magnesium in the water supply determines
and how much tankless heating of the water is needed determines how often flushing may be
required.

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STEP 13. CONNECT POWER TO PUMP BOX AND VERIFY OPERATION
Step 13A: Connect both leads to the overtemperature switch at this time to enable the pump.
Step 13B: Check the gauges and lights on the pump box to be sure the system is operating
normally. If the sun is out, the PV panel should produce power to operate the pump. First, verify
that the green LED is lit, indicating power is available. Next, check the yellow LED that shows if
the pump is enabled. If it is not on, it indicates that the overtemperature switch is not connected
or has opened because the tank is too hot. If both the green and yellow LED’s are lit, the pump
should be spinning. El-SID-10 pumps have LED’s in the body of the pump, and all four LED’s
light up when the pump is running. Topsflo pumps have no indicators, but you can feel a slight
vibration of the pump when it is spinning. If it is sunny, after the pump has run a few minutes the
temperature gauge should begin to rise, indicating that circulation is occurring.
The system will burp all of the air out of the piping over several days of operation, and it will be
heating the water tank while burping. Because of this, it is a good idea to top off the fluid level
in the SPOC™reservoir after a week or so of operation. This can be done by attaching the
sprayer pump to the fill valve, opening valve Aand actuating the sprayer pump valve to pump
more antifreeze into the system.
Step 13c: Verify that all of the labels and signs are in place.
System Information Labels for Tank, SPOC, Pump

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Labels currently in use are shown above for Wands Manufactured after 10/23/2018.
Labels shown immediately above for Wands Manufactured after 7/19/2018 and before 10/23/2018. Wands
made before 7/19/2018 did not have a label showing NSF / ANSI 61, A separate Label was applied See Pictures.
Wand Labels (UL969 Compliant) Older/Newer Versions
Step 13C: After a final check that all hose fittings are tight and not leaking, finish insulating the
tubes and pipes around the pump area and replace the cover on the pump box. Then you can
clean up the area, put all materials away, and congratulate yourself on a job well done.
APPENDIX 1. TOOLS OF THE TRADE
The following tools will allow you to collect information on your system operation and will be
real time savers if you are installing multiple systems. A digital multimeter (inexpensive ones
are available from hardware stores) with a thermocouple readout to measure temperatures will
allow you to check system voltages and currents to determine if the PV panel is providing the
proper power. The tools on the right in the following photo are the only specialty tools one
should need in addition to simple drills and carpentrytools.

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SAFETY TOOLS: In addition to the above tools you should have the following safety items:
• Safety Glasses
• Leather work gloves
o Prevent hand cuts
o Prevent scalding by hot water
• A safety harness and climbing ropes if you are on a pitched roof
• Closed-toe shoes with slip-resistant soles
• Rated ladder for access to roofs. Ladders slipping and related falls are all too
common, and can be avoided with proper safety procedures such as anchoring
ladders to roof and ground
Of course, none of the above tools should be considered a replacement for Common
Sense! These systems contain hot fluids at pressure that can cause damage, and
working on roofs is inherently dangerous. So, pay attention, be careful, and trust your
gut –If it feels dangerous, it probably is!