Captain Slug FLAK User manual

FLAK ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The FLAK is a multi
-
ammo Lever
-
Action spring
-
plunger homemade blaster powered by elastic cords. It can be setup to
accept and fire from Rival Mags, Talon Mags, Sledgefire Shells, Spring Thunder Shells, Trilogy Shells, spigot-launched
Missiles (Demolisher Rockets), and anything you want to plug onto a 1/2 SCH40 pipe spigot. It is released as a Non-
Commercial license file set by Captain Slug (http://www.captainslug.com).
You are welcome to and encouraged to modify the files in any way you want. All of the parts can be printed with infill as
low as 20% in PLA, but I would recommend printing in layers of 200 Micron or smaller. Also set the wall/perimeters to
1.5mm to 2mm thickness.
Hardware kits and Blaster kits are available for sale. I'm producing these myself in what remains of my free time.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug
DO NOT STORE IN TEMPERATURES ABOVE 100F. Storing the blaster inside of a car in warmer months will
cause the printed parts to distort or warp beyond their intended shape. If you need to store one in a vehicle
temporarily, store it in the trunk.
DO NOT aim this blaster at faces. The muzzle velocities this design can reach are between 80fps and 150fps
depending upon the darts used and the bands installed.
For most o
f the above hardware list the quantities are the MINIMUM required for assembly. Easily
-
lost items will have
several spares and I typically include extras of the majority of the items. Item #19 is not used in this build.
To assemble this blaster you will need a Small Philips Screwdriver, Flat screwdriver, Scissors, and a Round Needle File.
The Plunger Tube in the Hardware Kit does come pre-lubricated. But it's also a good idea to have extra lubricant on-hand
for the Plunger Tube and I would recommend only using a clear Silicone Grease such as Oatey's brand #30219. Any clear
90% silicone grease will work fine so long as it does not include any additives. NEVER USE SILICONE LUBRICANT FROM
AN AEROSOL CAN. The propellants used in those are harmful to plastic parts.

Above is a list of every printed part needed to assemble this blaster. The majori
ty of the through holes should print to
the required tolerance, but you will likely have one or two that may require minimal filing. Also make sure to trim off any
burrs or oversized edges. You will also want to print the breech parts and foregrip of your choice. I also recommend
printing 4 copies of the “Cordpler” print.
Insert a Lin
kage print int
o
ea
ch end of the LinkCoupler
print, then drive a
4
-
40
screw in from each side to secure them.
Line up the holes in each LeverL and LeverR print and drive a 4-40 screw into each hole.

Force
a Hex Standoff into the two
socket
s in the Sideplate print. Dri
ve a 4
-
40 screw into them
from the oppo
si
te side
.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.
A.
Once the perpe
ndicular holes where shown are unobs
tructed by the he
x standoffs, drive a 4
-
40 screw into each
.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
B. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
Repeat this process for the other Sideplate print.
Force
a Hex Standoff into the two
socket
s in the
bottom inside of the
Cap
print.
Drive a 4
-
40 screw into the
m
from the
opposite side.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.

A.
Once the perpe
ndicular holes where shown are unobs
tructed by the hex standoffs, drive a 4
-
40 screw into each
.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
B. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
C. Insert a Hex Standoff into each of the sloped sockets in the back of the Cap print on each side.
Drive a 4
-
40 screw into them
from the oppo
si
te side
.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.
A. Once the perpendicular holes where shown are unobstructed by the hex standoffs, drive a 4-40 screw into each.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
B. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
Stret
ch a Dash 131 o
-
ring onto the undercut on the flange around the back of the Cap print. You wil
l need to wedge it
into the gap where indicated first.
Add a second Dash131 o-ring into the opening at the back as shown, then fold it over to fit the opposite side of the o-
ring so it becomes captive.

A.
Force
a Hex Standoff into the two
socket
s in the
bottom inside of the
Muzzle
print.
B. Drive a 4-40 screw into them from the opposite side.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.
C. Once the perpendicular holes where shown are unobstructed by the hex standoffs, drive a 4-40 screw into each.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
D. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
Attach the PlungerA
and Plunger
B prints with two 4
-
40 screws.
Slide the ¾” length nylon spacer into alignment with the two holes in the back of PlungerA, then drive a 4-40 screw in
from each side to retain it. It should spin freely on both screws once they are in place.
Secure PlungerC to the end of the assembly using two 4
-
40 screws.
If the topside of the PlungerA print is rough in the areas shown with stripes, use sandpaper or a flat file to flatten and
smooth out the indicated area.
Add a Dash 131 o-ring to the undercut on the head of the Plunger assembly.

Insert a round standoff into the hole in the Sear print, then
line
the two up with the ho
les in the Grip print. Secure the
round standoff in the Grip print with two 4-40 screws.
S
lide the Trigger print into the Grip print so that th
e
“
heel
”
is restin
g inside.
Tie the end of the smaller size elastic and then feed it through the holes at the front of the Sear and Trigger prints.
Stretch it out tightly and tie a second knot close as close to the Trigger print as possible.
Test the resulting tension by trying to pull the Trigger and Sear prints apart. The gap between them should only be able
to expand between ¼ and 3/8 of an inch.
Once this is confirmed, cut off the excess elastic and set it aside.
Attach the Sideplate
print
s to the Grip
print using 4
-
40 screws.

Slide the Lever prints into the grip until the
large hole lines up with the
large holes in the Trigger and Sideplate prints.
Feed a long 10
-
32 screw in
through the
S
ideplate
s
, L
ever
, and Trigger prints
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in through the perpendicular hole in the Sideplate print until it clamps down onto the long 10-32
screw.
Us
e a 4
-
40 screw to attach the
Win
g prints to each Sideplate.

Attach the Center pri
nt to the front of the Sideplate prints using two 4
-
40 screws.
Slide the Plunger assembly down over the grip assembly.
Slide the
plunger tube onto the end of
the Plunger.
Force the Cap print into the plunger tube until it bottoms out.
Line up the
holes in one of the U
-
channels with the Sideplate and Cap prints, and se
cure it with 4
-
40 screws.
Repeat for the remaining U
-
chann
el on the
opposite side.

Insert a
short pin into each hole in the front of the Center print,
then push the rail_max pr
int onto the short pins.
Sec
ure the rail_max print to the Cap print using two 4
-
40 screws.
The R
e
ar Half Assembly is complete.
Now
onto the various ammo type front en
ds.

Inline
RIVAL
Magazine
Assembly
Attach the RamR Print to the front of the Cap
print using two 4
-
40 screws.
Tie a knot at the end of the 3/32” elastic, then feed the free end through the ClawR print
and into the hole in the side of the CartRT print.
Then feed the free end
in the hole perpendicular to that inside hole and out t
he back of the CartR
T
print.
Pull the cord until it’s taught, then tie a knot as close to the CartRT print as possible. Use scissors to trim off the excess.
Repeat to install the second ClawRT print on the right side of the CartRT print.

Line up the hole
in the ReleaseR print with the hole in the front of the C
artRT print, then drive a 4
-
40 screw i
n from each
side. The ReleaseR print should rotate freely.
Knot the end of a length of 3/32” elastic and feed it in through the hole in the top of the CartRT print, then in through
the hole in the side of the ReleaseR print.
Repeat on the opposite side, then pull taught and tie a knot very close to the hole. Trim off the excess and let the knot
get pulled into the counterbore.
Slide the ElevatorRT print
into the back of the CartRT print until the holes in both line up. Drive a 4
-
40 screw in from
each side. The Elevator RT print should rotate freely. Slide the Linkage assembly into the ElevatorRT print as shown, and
drive a 4-40 screw in from each side. The Linkage assembly should rotate freely.
Knot the end of a length of 3/32” elastic and feed it in through the hole in the top of the CartRT print, then through the
hole in the top of the ElevatorRT print.
Pull taught on the opposite side and tie a knot very close to the hole. Trim off the excess and let the knot get pulled into
the counterbore.
Push a hex nut into the s
ocket inside the front of the CartRT print, then drive a 10
-
32 screw into it from the outside until
the hex nut is pulled to the bottom of the socket. Repeat on the other side.
Back the screws out far enough to allow the barrel to be pushed into the hole in the CartRT print, then drive the screws
into the barrel until it is secured.

Repeat the above steps with the MuzzRT print
, the
n secure it to the e
xposed end of the barrel.
Make sure to align the upper sight blade so that it is perfectly vertical.
Drive a 4-40 screw into the small hole in the front of the MuzzRT print. This is the adjustable hop-up.
If when testing the blaster later on and the Rival Rounds fired float upwards too much, this screw will need to be
tightened further. If the Rival Round fired slope downwards when fired, this screw will need to be loosened.
Slide the finishe
d Inline magwell assembly onto the U
-
channel pairs on the front of the blaster.
Slide the ForegripRT print onto the u-channel pair ends, then secure by driving two 4-40 screws in from each side.
Line up the hole in the
Linkage as
semb
ly
with the holes in the slot
in the
front
of the
Lever Assembly
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from both sides until they push into the hole in the Linkage assembly, retaining it. The Linkage
assembly print should still be able to rotate after both screws are installed.
Inline Rival Mag assembly is Complete. Simply insert a magazine through the front of the blaster below the barrel.
You can load rival rounds into the mag through the port in the bottom of the magwell when the breech is closed.

RIVAL
Magazine
Assembly
Attach the RamR Print to the front of the Cap
print using two 4
-
40 screws.
Tie a knot at the end of the 3/32” elastic, then feed the free end through the ClawR print
and into the hole in the side of the CartR print.
Then feed the free end
in the hole perpendicular to that inside hole and out t
he back of the CartR print.
Pull the cord until it’s taught, then tie a knot as close to the CartR print as possible. Use scissors to trim off the excess.
Repeat to install the second ClawR print on the right side of the CartR print.

Line up the hole
in the Release
R print with the holes in the slot
in the bottom of the CartR print
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from both sides until they push into the hole in the ReleaseR print, retaining it. The ReleaseR print
should still be able to rotate after both screws are installed.
Tie a knot on the end of the 3/32” elastic cord, then feed it through the small hole in the front of the CartR print.
Stretching it out the back and down, then through the hole in the side of the ReleaseR print.
Pull it upwards and into the hole in the back of the CartR print on the opposite side, then out through the front.
Pull the elastic taught, making sure to pull of any available slack.
Then tie a knot as close to the CartR print as you can, then trim off the excess. Both knotted ends can be put into the
widened portion of the holes in the CartR print to hide them.
Add a Hex nut to the socket inside the barrel h
ole of the CartR print, then drive a 10
-
32 screw into it from the hole
underneath until it pulls it tightly into the socket.
Back the screw out enough to allow the barrel to be inserted and bottomed out past the screw.
Tighten the screw again until it clamps down onto the barrel.

Add a Hex nut to the socket inside the barrel hole of the
Muzz
R print, then drive a 10
-
32 s
crew into it from the hole
underneath until it pulls it tightly into the socket.
Back the screw out enough to allow the barrel to be inserted and bottomed out past the screw.
Tighten the screw again until it clamps down onto the barrel.
Line up the ho
le in the
Linkage as
sembly
with the holes in the slot
in the
back
of the CartR print
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from both sides until they push into the hole in the Linkage assembly, retaining it. The Linkage
assembly print should still be able to rotate after both screws are installed.

Slide the Rival Assembly onto the U
-
channel pair.
Line up the hole in the
Linkage as
semb
ly
with the holes in the slot
in the
front
of the
Lever Assembly
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from both sides until they push into the hole in the Linkage assembly, retaining it. The Linkage
assembly print should still be able to rotate after both screws are installed.
Slide the Muzzle into the open end of the U-Channels and secure it on each side with a 4-40 screw.

TALON
Magaz
ine
Assembly
Press the
Ramrod core into the RamR print.
Drive a 4
-
40 screw in from each side to retain it. These can be adjusted
later
to correct for vertical alignment relative to the barrel.
Add an 012 o-ring to the undercut on the ramrod.
Attach the Ramrod assembly to the front of the Cap print using two 4-40 screws.

Line up the hole in the Release
D
print with the holes in
the slot
in the bottom of the Cart
D
print
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from both sides until they push into the hole in the ReleaseD print, retaining it. The ReleaseD print
should still be able to rotate after both screws are installed.
Tie a knot on the end of the 3/32” elastic cord, then feed it through the small hole in the front of the CartD print.
Stretching it out the back and down, then through the hole in the side of the ReleaseD print.
Pull it upwards and into the hole in the back of the CartD print on the opposite side, then out through the front.
Pull the elastic taught, making sure to pull of any available slack.
Then tie a knot as close to the CartD print as you can, then trim off the excess. Both knotted ends can be put into the
widened portion of the holes in the CartD print to hide them.
Add a Hex nut to the socket inside the barrel hole of the CartR print, then
drive a 10
-
32 screw into it from the hole
underneath until it pulls it tightly into the socket.
Line up the hole in the Linkage assembly with the holes in the slot in the back of the CartR print.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from both sides until they push into the hole in the Linkage assembly, retaining it. The Linkage
assembly print should still be able to rotate after both screws are installed.

Slide the Talon Mag assembly onto the U
-
channels.
Line up the hole in the
Linkage as
sembly
with the holes i
n the slot
in the
front
of the
Lever Assembly
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from both sides until they push into the hole in the Linkage assembly, retaining it. The Linkage
assembly print should still be able to rotate after both screws are installed.
Slide
the Mu
zzle into the open end of the U
-
Channels and secure it on each side with a 4
-
40 screw.
Attach the LipD print to the front of the Muzzle print using two 4-40 screws.

Slide the barrel in through the LipD print and then into the fro
nt of the CartD
print.
Back the screw in the hex nut at the front of the CartD print out enough to allow the barrel to be inserted until flush with
the inside surface of the magazine well.
Tighten the screw again until it clamps down onto the barrel.
Add a Hex nut to
the socket inside the barrel hole of the
Muzz
D
print, then drive a 10
-
32 screw into it from the hole
underneath until it pulls it tightly into the socket.
Back the screw out enough to allow the barrel to be inserted and bottomed out past the screw.
Tighten the screw again until it clamps down onto the barrel.