Captain Slug HYPR User manual

HYPR ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The
HY
PR is a Muzzle
-
Loading Single
-
Shot Homemade Nerf Blaster design released as a Non
-
Commercial license file set
by Captain Slug (http://www.captainslug.com).
You are welcome to and encouraged to modify the files in any way you want. All of the parts can be printed with infill as
low as 20% in PLA, but I would recommend printing in layers of 200 Micron or smaller. Also set the wall/perimeters to
1.5mm to 2mm thickness.
Hardware kits and Blaster kits are available for sale. I'm producing these myself in what remains of my free time.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug
DO NOT STORE IN TEMPERATURES ABOVE 100F. Storing the blaster inside of a car in warmer months will
cause the printed parts to distort or warp beyond their intended shape. If you need to store one in a vehicle
temporarily, store it in the trunk.
DO NOT aim this blaster at faces. The muzzle velocities this design can reach are between 60fps and 100fps
depending upon the darts used and the bands installed.
For most o
f the above hardware list the quantities are the MINIMUM required for assembly. Easily
-
lost items will have
several spares and I typically include extras of the majority of the items. Item #19 is not used in this build.
To assemble this blaster you will need a Small Philips Screwdriver, and a Round Needle File.
You may also need a 3/32” drill bit and a SLOW power drill.
The Plunger Tube in the Hardware Kit does come pre-lubricated. But it's also a good idea to have extra lubricant on-hand
for the Plunger Tube and I would recommend only using a clear Silicone Grease such as Oatey's brand #30219. Any clear
90% silicone grease will work fine so long as it does not include any additives. NEVER USE SILICONE LUBRICANT FROM
AN AEROSOL CAN. The propellants used in those are harmful to plastic parts.

Above is a list of every printed part needed to assemble this blaster. The majori
ty of the through holes should print to
the required tolerance, but you will likely have one or two that may require minimal filing. Also make sure to trim off any
burrs or oversized edges.
Fold an o
-
ring in half
and push one side into the cavity in the bottom of the Base print. Then insert the other
half into the
other side of the cavity.

A
dd a
123 O
-
Ring to the undercut on the outside of the print.
Push the barrel in through the center of the Base print until the end is roughly ½ an inch away from the front face. The
barrel needs to have a snug fit inside the print, if it doesn’t hold in place you may need to apply a small amount of super
glue near the front. If it is too tight you may need to use a round needle file to deburr or clean up the inside of the print.
Slide the unlubricated end of the plunger tube onto the
o
-
ring on the Base print.
Add an o
-
ring to the undercut
on the Plunger print.
Line the larger hole in the Conrod print (as indicated by the arrow in the print) with the holes in the back of the Plunger
print.
Drive a 4-40 screw in from each side and into the hole in the Conrod print to retain it.
Slide the plunger
assembly into the lubricated end of the Plunger tube.

Slide the TopRail and Wunderb
ar prints into the keyways in the
front of the
Base print.
Push the Yoke print onto the back of t
he plunger tube and line up the holes in it with the holes in the TopRail and
Wunderbar prints. The Conrod print should poke through as shown.
Drive a 4-40 screw in through each hole to secure the prints together.
Drive 4
-
40 screws in
through
the
Camm
er
Right
piece
and
the
n into the
central Cammer print
to create t
he
partial
Cammer assembly.

Take a short pin and check t
he fit of
it in the two small holes in the Grip
Left and GripRight prints. If it
’
s not a loose fit
clean out the holes with a 3/32” drill bit. Perform the same check on the through-holes of the Cammer, Conrod, and
Trigger prints.
Use two 4
-
40 screws to attach the
GripRight print to the right side of the Wunderbar print.
Use a 4
-
40 sc
rew to attach the Griddle part to the GripRight p
art.

Insert a short pin into the Cammer and Trigger parts as
shown
and into the matching holes in the
GripRight print.
Slow
ly work the
two holes in the
Grip
Left print
onto the two exposed short pins.
This is the only annoying step in the instructions.
Secure the G
ripLeft print using three 4
-
40 screws.

Feed a
short pin into the
hole in the
left side of the C
onr
od
print
and then
i
nto the
CammerR
i
ght
print.
Slide the CammerLeft print onto the exposed end of the short pin.
Retain CammerLeft print by driving a 4-40 screw through each hole and into the CammerMiddle print.
Use a hammer or whatever else you feel like hitting them with to drive a short pin into
each of the two holes in the end
of the rail_max print.
Push the pins into the matching pair of holes in the front sight blade
of the TopRail print. Then wedge the opposite end
of the rail_max print ahead of the rear sight fork of the Yoke print.

D
rive two 4
-
40 screws in through the hole
s to secure the prints t
o
g
ether
.
Take the smaller elastic cord and tie a
knot at the
end of it. Feed the free en
d through the hole in the bottom of t
he
Griddle print, and subsequently through the Trigger print.
Pull the excess of the free end taught and tie a knot within ½ of an inch from the trigger. Use scissors to trim off the
excess.
If you do not have a smaller elastic to work with a rubber band can be doubled-up on the Griddle print so that one end is
looped over the trigger and the other under the heel of the Griddle print.

Take
one of the larger loops of elastic and hook it unde
r the hammer through the U
-
shap
ed cut at the back of the
Cammer print. Wrap it up and over the Base print following the curved troughs in the front of the print.
Take the remaining elastic and pull it around behind the Grip, then up and behind the Ear on the back of the Cammer
print.
The cords should wrap exactly as shown and not be doubled-up over the top of the blaster at forks in the Yoke print.
Completing a single Wrap 1 will result in 60 fps averages using full-length darts.
Repea
t
Wrap 1
with the
second
larger loops of elastic
, but rather than lead the
opposite end o
ver the Ear of the Cammer
print, leave it in the groove cut in the back of the Griddle print.
Adding Wrap 2 to Wrap 1 will result in 75 fps averages using full-length darts.
Adding Wrap 1 to Wrap 1 will result in 90+ fps averages using full-length darts.

The file set includes and alternate
“
Flat
”
plunge
r
. It is intended to be use with the barrel mounted flush with the inside
of the Base print so that the majority of it sticks out the front of the blaster. That setup will result in a slightly longer
blaster, but should result in higher fps averages.
I would also recommend cutting the barrel down to 1-1/2 inches in length and using the “flat” plunger if you intend to
only fire half-length darts.