Captain Slug TALON CLAW U User manual

TALON CLAW U ASSEMBLY
The
Talon Claw
U
is a Mag
-
Fed Pump
-
Action Homemade Ner
f Blaster design
for half
-
length darts ONLY
released as a
CC
-
NC license file set by Captain Slug (http://www.captainslug.com).
You are welcome to and encouraged to modify the files in any way you want. The Majority of the parts can be printed
with infill as low as 20% in PLA, but I would recommend printing in layers of 300 Micron or smaller. I would recommend
a minimum of 1.5mm walls/perimeters for every part.
Hardware blaster kits are available for sale as made-to-order items. I'm producing these myself in what remains of my
free time.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug
DO NOT STORE IN TEMPERATURES ABOVE 100F. Storing the blaster inside of a
car in warmer months will
cause the printed parts to distort or warp beyond their intended shape. If you have to store one in a vehicle,
store it in the trunk.
DO NOT use this blaster for indoor wars or wars involving very short distances. The muzzle velocities this
design can reach are between 150fps and 210fps depending upon the darts used and the spring installed. If
indoor use is intended, obtain the lower fps springs that are currently available for this design (K31 and 788)
and use them.

For mo
st of t
he above hardware list
the quantities
are the MINIMUM required for assembly.
Easily
-
lost items will have
several spares and I typically include extras of the majority of the items.
To assemble this blaster you will need a Slotted Screwdriver, Small Philips Screwdriver, 3/8 Combination Wrench, and a
Round Needle File. You may also need a 3/8” socket and a square drive extension to use with it.
The Plunger Tube in the Hardware Kit does come pre-lubricated. But it's also a good idea to have extra lubricant on-hand
for the Plunger Tube and I would recommend only using a clear Silicone Grease such as Oatey's brand #30219. Any clear
90% silicone grease will work fine so long as it does not include any additives. NEVER USE SILICONE LUBRICANT FROM
AN AEROSOL CAN. The propellants used in those are harmful to plastic parts.
ALSO AVOID DRY-FIRING THIS BLASTER EXCESSIVELY. Firing without a dart in the barrel will add unneeded wear on this
blaster, especially if the higher load rating springs are installed. Also do not pull the trigger with the foregrip in the
rearward position (with the breech open). The breech being slammed closed by the main spring is very likely to damage
both the breech itself and the magwell.

Above is a list of every printed part needed to assemble this blaster. The majority of the through holes should print to
the required tolerance, but you will likely have one or two that may require minimal filing. Also make sure to trim off any
burrs or oversized edges.
Insert a
4
-
40
standoff into the socket inside the Muzzle print. Drive a 4
-
40 screw into the hole perpendicular t
o the
socket until it bottoms out against the standoffs. Repeat on the opposite side.
Repeat the above steps to the Buttplate, Magback, Pcap, and Coupler prints until they all include a pair of retained
standoffs.
Feed a long 10-32 screw in through the lower hole in the Buttplate and then through the Stockkey. Add a hex nut onto
the end of the screw, and tighten both together until the hex nut gets drawn completely into the socket in the front of
the Stockkey print.
Set this assembly aside.

Place a
10
-
3
2
hex nut onto the end of a 1
-
3/4” length screw, then push the hex nut into the front of the spring guide of
BackButt until it bottoms out. Unscrew the long screw from the hex nut.
Insert the long screw through the Endplate (inf included) then in from the back of the EndCap and screw it into the hex
nut until tight. Secure the Endplate (if included) further with a 4-40 screw.
Set this assembly aside.
Insert a hex standoff into the sockets inside the back of the print.
You may want to drive a 4-40 screw into it from the side to pull it to the end of the socket.
Once the standoff is in the bottom of the socket, drive a 4-40 screw into the hole that is perpendicular to the socket to
retain it. Repeat the process for the three other sockets in the print.
Add a hex nut to the
hex socket inside the barrel hole in the MagFront print.
Drive a short 10-32 screw into that hex nut from underneath using a flat screwdriver. Only screw it in until the tip of the
screw is flush with the opposite face of the hex nut.
Loosen the screw back out until the end of it is flush with the inside surface of the hex nut.

Insert a hex nut into each of the sockets in one of the nameplate prints using a hammer.
Secure the nameplate with the embedded hex nuts into the Magfront and Magback prints using 4-40 screws.
Insert the mag release prints into Magback and insert a short pin through the holes all three prints.
Push one of the U
-
channels onto the side of the resulting assembly with the two closely
-
spaced holes towards the rear,
and the two further spaced holes towards the front as shown. Line up the hole indicated with the hole in the MagBack
print and secure it with a pair of 4-40 screws. If the u-channel doesn’t want to be pushed into place you may need to
loosen the long 10-32 screws and lower 4-40 screws. Tap the Uchannel into place with a hammer, then retighten those
screws.
Attach the remaining nameplate print to the assembly using two long 10
-
32 s
crews and two 4
-
40 screws.
Drive a 4-40 screw partway into each of the two holes in the back of the Magback print where shown.
Hook an extension spring between the peg on each mag release, and the screws you just added in the back of the
Magback print.

Slide a magazine into the open
magwell to check fit. If the fit is too tight loosen then retighten the upper pair of long
screws. Once fit of the magazine is confirmed, tighten the lower 4-40 screws the rest of the way.
Push the Ramrod Core into the RamBase print, then secure it with a 4
-
40 screws from each side. DO
NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
Add an o-ring to the undercut in the RamBase print, then add the adhesive-backed Shockpad to the back face of the
RamBase print.
Secure a bolt arm to each side of the ramrod base using a 4
-
40 screw. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Slide the bo
lt arms through the slots in the back of the magwell assembly
.
Apply a little bit of lubricant inside both ends of the plunger tube.
Slide the plunger tube into Magback and onto the rear of the ramrod base.
Set this assembly aside.
Add an extension spring to the peg on the Sear5 print, then use the print to fish the opposite end of the
spring into and
through the Grip5ar print.
Use an awl or a small flat screwdriver to pull the loop of the extension spring onto the hook inside the Grip5ar print.
Add a 4-40 Standoff to the hole in the Sear5 print, then slide it down into the Grip5ar print until the standoff lines up
with the two holes.
Drive a 4
-
40 screw in through the holes and into the standoff from both sides.

Rock the Sear back to
allow the Trigger print in through the top of the assembly making sure to get it under the Sear5
print.
Line up the hole in the Trigger print with the matching holes in the assembly and drive a short pin through both.
Slide the Tguard print into the square hole in the front of the grip print, then secure by driving a 4-40 screw in through
each side.
Force the Grip Assembly into the U
-
Channel and up against the back of the Magwell assembly.
Use a long 10
-
32 screw and a hammer to drive a hex nut into the socket in the print where indicated. Then remove the

long 10
-
32 screw.
Push the Coupler print into the U-Channel, around/over the Sear5 print, onto the Plunger tube, and then up against the
back of the Grip assembly.
Push one of the U
-
channels onto the side of the resulting assembly with the two closely
-
spaced holes as shown. If the u
-
channel doesn’t want to be pushed into place you may need to loosen the long 10-32 screws and lower 4-40 screws. Tap
the Uchannel into place with a hammer, then retighten those screws.
Secure both sides of the coupler with a 4
-
40 screw. Drive a 10
-
32 hex nut into the slot in the
top of the Coupler.
Add an O
-
ring to the Plunger/Piston print and slide it into the plunger tube while holding down the trigger.
Add the main spring, pushing it into the plunger until the plunger bottoms out against the ramrod base.
Add the EndCap assembly. Feeding the post into the middle of the main spring.

Secure the Endcap to the coupler with two long 10
-
32 screws.
(If included) secure the Buttplate assembly to the end of the u-channel pair with 4-40 screws.
Slide the base
foregrip onto the bolt arms and secure with short 10
-
32 screws.
Add a hex nut to the hex socket inside the barrel hole in the MagFront print.
Drive a short 10-32 screw into that hex nut from underneath using a flat screwdriver. Only screw it in until the tip of the
screw is flush with the opposite face of the hex nut.
Loosen the screw back out until the end of it is flush with the inside surface of the hex nut.

Secure it to the front end of the u
-
channel pair with 4
-
40 screws.
Slide the barrel i
n through the Muzzle print, DoomS print, and MagFront print until it is flush with the back side of the
MagFront print where indicated.
Tighten both screws indicated to clamp the barrel in place.

Add the foregrip accessory of your choice to the
base foregrip rail segment.
If included, install the Muzzle print onto the exposed end of the barrel.
Loosen the two screws that hol
d the m
u
zzle print into the ends of the u
-
channel pair.
Slide the Rail segment prints inbetween the Muzzle print, and the Magfront print so that all of the positive keyways in
each print face toward the rear. The smaller rail segment print will go against the Magfront print.
Insert a 10
-
32 Hex Nut
into the slot in the top of the
Magfront
print.
Slide a 9.25-inch length threaded rod in through all of the segments and screw it into the Hex Nut inside the slot of the
Magfront print.
Drive a hex nut onto the exposed portion of the threaded rod until it tightens down the muzzle print and all of the rail
segments together. Cap the end of the threaded rod with an acorn nut. Tighten the screw that hold the muzzle print into
the ends of the u-channel pair.

Insert a magazine into the magwell. If the fit is too tight you may need
to loosen the screw that clamps the barrel into
the muzzle, then the two that attach the front of the NamePlate prints to the MagFront print. Then retighten once the
magazine fit feels correct.
Slide the foregrip back to compress the mainspring until the plunger gets engaged on the Sear.
With the breech OPEN install a Magazine loaded with darts. The design natively supports both Talon mags, and Katana
mags. Slide the foregrip all the way forwards to chamber the dart in the top of the Magazine. You can load up to three
darts into the barrel at a time if desired by cycling the Foregrip back and forth multiple times prior to pulling the Trigger.
ONLY PULL THE TRIGGER WHEN THE BREECH IS CLOSED AND THE FOREGRIP IS IN THE FORWARD POSITION. If you do not
have a dart loaded in the barrel and need to pull the Trigger to de-prime the blaster, plug the end of the barrel with your
finger before doing so.
Replacing the Main Spring does not require full disassembly of the Blaster. You just need to reverse the last 2 steps in
these instructions in order to take the buttplate off.
The Blaster and Hardware Kits are shipped with K25 springs. The K25 is rated slightly lower than the K26, which is also
available. The alternate spring options are the K31 and 788 which both have to be purchased separately or opted for as
a replacement. Either are recommended for indoor use, or for younger players.