Chassisworks 7704 User manual

INSTALLATION GUIDE
7704
Bolt-On g-Machine Front Clip
1978-81 Camaro/Firebird
Description: A-arm front clip bolt-on for 1978-81 Camaro/Firebird. Includes welded front frame clip, body mounts,
upper and lower A-arms, spindles, coil-over shock and springs,billet rack and pinion, billet rack and pinion mounts,
ties rod ends, disc brake kit, engine mounts, and transmission mount installation instructions.
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY AND THOROUGHLY UNDERSTAND THEM BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.
CALL CHASSISWORKS TECH SUPPORT [phone] IF YOU NEED ASSISTANCE.

INSTALLATION GUIDE
78-81 CAMAROS & FIREBIRDS
3 Equipment List and
Hardware List
6 Installing Lower & Upper
A-arms and Spindles
20 Installing Steering Rack
26 Front Suspension Alignment
33 Installing Antiroll Bar
39 Installing Shocks and Springs
43 Installing Brakes
53 Installing Engine Mounts and
Mid Plate
58 Installing Manual Transmission
61 Removing Stock Front Clip
72 Installing Bolt-On Frame
78 Installing Transmission
Crossmember
79 Aligning The Frame
81 Reinstalling Factory
Components
84 Installing Steering Shaft
88 Installing Fender Flaps
94 Installing Headers
96 Installing Subframe
Connectors
20
6
33
61
96
94
88
78
72
58 53
43
39
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CONGRATULATIONS
You have purchased the finest bolt-on Camaro front frame available. We hope you
are as excited about installing it as we were about designing it.
This assembly booklet should guide you through a seamless installation. However,
if you have any questions please give our tech line a call at [phone].
Monday through Friday 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. PST.
Every effort has been made to insure that each component has been boxed
correctly. However, we urge you to open each box and verify its contents against
the enclosed parts list.
We also suggest that you read this entire assembly booklet before you begin. This
will help you become familiar with the project.
Please remember that when you modify a vehicle, you assume all risks. You are
changing the structural integrity manufactured into the original vehicle. As such,
you need to be cognizant of potential failures. Initially you must conduct a series of
short tests in a safe location. Test for handling, steering, and braking at slightly
increasing speeds.
Once you are confident the vehicle handles and stops properly, take a series of
drives with slightly increasing speeds stopping to check all components. Gradually
increase the distance of your drives. Once you have confirmed your installation is
road-worthy, you must develop a maintenance program. You must check all
components for looseness, and wear and tear on a regular schedule. Your
schedule must be more intense and frequent than a regular OEM vehicle.
Chris Alston's Chassisworks would appreciate any feedback regarding your
experience during installation and use of this frame. If there are any accessories or
options you would like to see us manufacture, please let our sales department
know.
That said, let’s install!
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Recommended Equipment List
This list will give you a good idea of the necessary tools required to complete this installation.
There will be additional items needed.
Hand Tools
Adjustable wrench
Allen wrench set
Anti-seize compound
Brake line wrench
Center punch
Clecos & pliers 1/8 size
Combination wrenches 3/8 to 3/4”
Vise grip pliers
Drill bit size 1/8 (.125)
Level
Loctite #242 thread lock
Philips screwdriver sizes #1 & #2
Pry bar
Wire brush
Socket set 3/8 to 3/4” with 3/8 drive
15/16” socket with 1/2” drive ratchet
Steel & plastic head hammers
Straight blade screwdriver
Pliers
Tape measure
Tap handle small and medium
Tap sizes: 10-32, 3/8-16, 7/16-14, 1/2-13,
5/8-18
Needle nose pliers
Shop Equipment
Floor jack
Jack stands –quantity 4
Digital level
3/8” electric drill
Torque Specification Chart
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
A-arm pivot studs 50 lb-ft
Antiroll bar clamp socket head allens
3/8-16 x 2 1/2” 20 lb-ft
Antiroll bar link eyebolt button head allen
3/8-16 x 3/4” 20 lb-ft
Antiroll bar link eyebolt socket head allen
3/8-16 x 2 1/4” 20 lb-ft
Balljoints 150 lb-ft
Balljoint studs 105 lb-ft
Caliper socket head allens 3/8-16 x 1 3/8” 30 lb-ft
Frame mounting bolt 1/2-13 x 2 1/2” 45 lb-ft
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Frame mounting bolt 5/8-11 x 3 80 lb-ft
Motor mount spuds 20 lb-ft
Rack clamp socket head allens
1/2-13 x 2” 45 lb-ft
Rack clamp caps socket head allens
5/16-18 x 1” 15 lb-ft
Shock spuds 20 lb-ft
Shock bolts 1/2-20 x 2 1/2” 45 lb-ft
Tie rod stud 60 lb-ft
Wheel studs 1/2-20 x 2 1/4” 12 point 40 lb-ft
We recommend applying a small amount of Loctite™ on all fasteners except the balljoint studs, and the tie rod studs.

DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY
Purchasers recognize and understand that products and services manufactured, provided, and/or sold by
CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., are exposed to many varied conditions due to the manner in
which they are used. Purchasers assume the responsibility to develop a Maintenance Procedure to
identify and replace worn components before they fail. Your Maintenance Procedure must include every
component on the vehicle. CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., makes no claims or guarantees
that any product or service is designed or intended to comply with any industry standards or government
regulations. CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., makes no claims or guarantees in reference to
any acceptance for use of its products or services by any entity or racing association, or that its products
can legally be installed on any vehicle that operates on a public highway.
CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., reserves the right to make changes or improvements in
design, materials or specifications or make product changes without incurring any obligation to replace,
change or improve products manufactured prior hereto.
There are NO WARRANTIES, either expressed or implied. There is no warranty of merchantability.
Neither the seller nor manufacturer will be liable for ANY loss, damage or injury direct or indirect, arising
from the use or inability to determine the appropriate use of any product. Buyer will not rely on
CHASSISWORKS skill or judgment to select or furnish the proper part or equipment for their application.
Buyer expressly affirms that they are relying upon their own skill and judgment to select and purchase
suitable goods.
Before any attempt at installation, all drawings and/or instruction sheets must be completely reviewed to
determine the suitability of the product for its intended use and that the buyer has the skills required to
install and maintain the product. Buyer assumes all responsibility and risk for correct installation. CHRIS
ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., accepts no responsibility for failure to read, or understand the
installation guidelines. All products are intended for racing or off-road use and may not be legal for
highway use. The information contained in this Installation Guide is correct to the best of our know-ledge
and belief, having been compiled from reliable sources. However, CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS,
INC., cannot assume responsibility for possible error. BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR DETERMINING
THE SUITABILITY OF ANY AND ALL PRODUCTS PURCHASED FROM CHRIS ALSTON’S
CHASSISWORKS, INC.
It is expressly understood and agreed between purchasers and Chris Alston’s Chassisworks, Inc., that as
part of the bargain between CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., and purchasers, and in
consideration of doing business with each other, all purchasers take, select and purchase said racing
parts, equipment any and all inventory, or services from CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., “as is”
and “with all faults” and CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., shall always provide purchasers with a
full and complete opportunity to examine, at purchasers’ leisure and convenience, any racing parts and
equipment, any and all inventory, or services when purchasing or contemplating purchasing from CHRIS
ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC. Use of CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., products
constitutes acceptance of this agreement in its entirety.
BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR DETERMINING THE SUITABILITY OF ANY AND ALL PRODUCTS
PURCHASED FROM CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC. NO PART, COMPONENT,
INVENTORY, OR SERVICE MANUFACTURED OR SOLD BY CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC.,
IS DESIGNED OR INTENDED TO PREVENT INJURY OR DEATH.
Purchasers understand and agree that no officer, director, employee, salesperson, or agent of CHRIS
ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., has any authority to make any statement contrary to the terms of this
agreement. CHRIS ALSTON’S CHASSISWORKS, INC., disavows any statement contrary to what is
herein above written.
Page 4 917704

Frame and Sheet Metal Hardware List
#3097 HARDWARE BOX FOR CAMARO/FIREBIRD BOLT-ON FRAME
QTY PART DESCRIPTION WHERE USED
8 2052 Shim, Camaro clip body mount 2.5x.63x.10 Between floor and body bushings.
2 1248 Alignment pin 67-81 Camaro Aligns front clip.
3 3430 Button head allen 5/16-18 x 3/4” Caps clutch pivot holes in frame.
6 3454 Cup point set screw 1/2-13 x 1/2” Caps extra holes in frame horns.
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Note: The photos in this installation guide were taken using a
1967-69 Camaro. There may be slight differences from your
application, but the assembly procedure is identical.
Installing Suspension
In this section you will install all of the front suspension components and align the front-end
geometry. It is easier to do this before the new front clip is installed to the body.
If you purchased plain steel A-arms, have them painted or powder coated before you assemble
them. Do not get paint in the balljoint housing thread bore or in the pivot bushing bores. The
balljoint bores are precision machined. Consequently, you cannot install and remove the balljoints
multiple times. The self-locking threads on the balljoint will destroy the balljoint housing if it is
removed and installed several times. Have your A-arms painted before the balljoint is assembled
to minimize this potential problem.
Do not plate or chrome the A-arms. The plating solution can leak into the tubes and cause them
to rust from the inside out. If you drill drain holes in the tubes, the A-arm will crack from the holes.
If you want a highly polished look, purchase our stainless A-arms.
The mild steel lower A-arms are shipped without their pivot bushings installed to make painting or
powder coating easier. Use an arbor press to install the bushings.
The first parts installed will be the upper
and lower A-arms. The stainless steel
lower A-arm comes with all of the
bushings installed. You will be installing
the bushings and rod ends in the upper
A-arms later.
For identification, the driver side A-arm
assembly is embossed with a “D” on the
balljoint housing.
The passenger side is embossed with a
“P” on the balljoint housing.
Installing Upper & Lower
A
-arms and S
p
indles
Page 6 917704

The balljoint rubber boot is installed in the
balljoint housing first. Because the boot fits
tight in the housing, installing it before the
balljoint is easier. Drop the boot into the
machined bore in the balljoint housing.
Work your way around the boot’s edge,
pushing it down into the bore with your
fingers. You can also use a blunt tool to do
this.
During the assembly process we are going
to coat all of the threaded assemblies with
an anti-seize compound to prevent the
threads from being damaged and aid
disassembly in the future.
Put a thin layer of anti-seize on the balljoint
threads.
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The balljoint is then screwed into the balljoint
housing as far as possible by hand. Make
absolutely sure that the thread starts
straight. This is a little tricky. The threads
on the balljoint are easy to cross thread.
Use the balljoint wrench included with your
kit to tighten the balljoint. Tighten it until it is
fully seated against the balljoint housing.
The force required can be over 150 lb-ft of
torque. Be careful not to scratch the A-arm.
Repeat this for the passenger side lower A-
arm.
One convenient method for holding the A-
arm while installing the balljoint is to
temporarily install the A-arm on the frame.
The upper A-arms will be assembled next.
Although they are very similar, they are not
identical. The letter “D” or “P” on the
balljoint housing identifies which side of the
car the A-arm installs in.
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Use a 5/8-18 tap to chase the threads in the
upper A-arm. Clear any debris left in the
threads.
Use the same procedure to assemble the
upper A-arm as the lower. First, install the
balljoint boot into the balljoint housing.
Next, apply a layer of anti-seize to the
balljoint threads.
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Thread the balljoint in as far as possible by
hand.
Finish tightening the balljoint with the
balljoint wrench until it is seated tight against
the balljoint housing. Repeat this for the
passenger side upper A-arm.
Install the rod ends into the upper A-arms.
To provide an initial alignment baseline, the
jam nut should be threaded until there is 1-
1/16 inches of thread remaining past the jam
nut.
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After the application of another dab of anti-
seize, the rod ends are threaded into the
A-arms, until the jam nuts are snug against
the arm itself.
This step must be done carefully because
the upper and lower A-arm mounts are
threaded and welded to the frame. Use the
5/8-18 tap to chase the threads on the front
and backsides of both upper mounts. Blow
any remaining particles out of the hole with
an air hose.
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Next, chase the threads in the lower A-arm
mounts with the 5/8-18 tap and blowout any
remaining particles.
Now, apply some anti-seize to the threads of
the pivot stud. Also put anti-seize inside the
bore of the A-arm mounts. Insert one of the
lower A-arm pivot studs and then run it in all
the way to its stop, it should go in easy. Use
the same procedure to verify all of the pivot
studs will easily thread into their mounting
locations.
The lower A-arm fits tight over the mount.
Slide the rear of the A-arm onto the mount
and then use a piece of wood between the
frame and the A-arm to pry it over the
mount. A 12” piece of 1x2 works well.
REA
R
Page 12 917704

When installing the lower A-arm pivot studs,
be careful not to damage the threads. Tap
the pivot stud into place with your hand.
If the hand method does not work, you can
use a plastic-tipped hammer to gently install
the pivot stud. It is best to move the pivot
stud a small amount at a time until the
threads make contact.
Do not put grease on the pivot bushings they
are self-lubricating.
Once the pivot studs are in place, use an
Allen T-wrench to tighten them. The pivot
studs should go in easily and should be
tightened until they are fully seated. This will
give the bushings the proper amount of
crush, and allow the lower A-arm to move
with a small amount of resistance.
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If you have to remove the lower A-arm pivot
studs, use a piece of wood and a few taps
with a hammer while turning the pivot stud
counter-clockwise. The pivot stud will come
out easily.
After tightening the lower A-arm pivot studs,
check to be sure the A-arm swings freely but
snugly throughout its travel.
The lower A-arm should also stay
suspended when released. It should take a
few pounds of pressure to make it move.
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A set screw is used to lock the A-arm pivot
studs. The set screw locks on the groove
machined into the pivot stud.
Before installing the pivot stud set screws,
apply a drop of Loctite™ thread sealing
compound to the screws. Be careful not to
get excess Loctite™ in the pivot stud bore.
The next step is to install the upper A-arm
and spindle. During this step you are going
to need the lower A-arm at its ride height
position.
Two of these shock simulators are included
in the suspension kit. The top hole
represents full shock extension, the bottom
hole full compression, and the middle hole
(at 12 inches) represents the ride height of
the shock absorber.
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Next, install the shock simulator at the ride
height position. Install the lower bolt first
and then the upper.
Installing the upper A-arm is similar to
installing the lower A-arm. Slide the front
rod end over the front mount first and then
swivel the rear one into place.
Install the upper mount bolts just like the
lower mount bolts. Do not fully tighten them
because they need to be moved when we
adjust the front suspension settings later.
Repeat the installation of the upper A-arm
on the passenger side.
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You are now going to install the dropped
spindles. The "L" cast into the back of the
spindles, does not designate "Left," it is the
foundry mark. The best way to identify the
driver and passenger side spindle is to
remember the steering arm (shown with
arrow) always goes toward the front of the
car.
Place the driver side spindle over the
balljoint and thread the 9/16-18 castle nut
on.
The balljoint castle nut will not thread on
easily if the threads are nicked. A thread file
can be used to correct the problem. After
filing, try the castle nut again before putting
the spindle on. Thread files can be found at
most auto parts stores.
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Place the spindle over the lower balljoint and
install the washer and castle nut. The upper
A-arm is then lowered into position and
secured to the spindle with another washer
and castle nut.
Tightened both upper and lower balljoint
castle nuts.
Insert the cotter pin through the hole in the
balljoint. You may need to tighten it a small
amount until the slots in the castle nut align
with the hole.
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With the cotter pin installed, use pliers to fold
the legs over the castle nut. One leg goes
down the other over the top of the balljoint
stud.
Repeat the procedure for the upper A-arm.
First tightening the castle nut.
Install the cotter pin and fold the legs over as
we did on the lower one. Repeat this
procedure on the passenger side of the car.
917704 Page 19