Clear Water AQUA ELITE 50 User manual

Licensed technologyLicensed technology
Residential Pools
INSTALLATION
&
POOL CARE MANUAL
MODEL
AQUA ELITE 50
The Healthy Alternative to Chlorine

A.) FIRST, BALANCE THE POOL'S WATER
Before installing the Aqua Elite 50, the pool’s water must be clear and balanced properly. It is extremely important that the
following guidelines are implemented - so please read thoroughly.
pH Reading Must be Between 7.2 and 7.6
The most important factor in the pool’s water chemistry is the pH reading. It should be kept between 7.2 and 7.6 at
all times. If the pH gets too high, Aqua Elite 50’s ions lose their effectiveness and can fall out of solution. Always get the
pH on the lower side – 7.2 to 7.4 for best results.
If the pH is above 7.6 - Using an acid demand test with your regular test kit, determine the amount of muriatic acid
needed to lower the pH down to 7.2. Add the acid and check a few hours later to make sure it is in the correct range.
If the pH is under 7.2 - Using a base demand test with your regular test kit, determine the amount of soda ash needed to
raise the pH to at least 7.2. If the pH tends to go down all the time, add enough soda ash to raise the pH to 7.6
Tips on balancing the pH - Test the pH at least once a week or after a heavy rainstorm. When adjusting the pH, don't
wait fort the pH to reach 8.0 before adding acid. Proceed to add a minimum amount of acid if the pH is over 7.6. If you
use the non-chlorine shock as an oxidizer, this will lower the pH and may eliminate acid use completely.
Total Alkalinity
Maintain the total alkalinity between 80-120 ppm. This should be tested at least once a month.
If the total alkalinity is under 80 ppm - Raise the total alkalinity by adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Consult
chart with your test kit for the amount needed (based on pool size).
If the total alkalinity is over 120 ppm - Lower the total alkalinity by adding muriatic acid. Consult chart with your test
kit for the amount to add.
Calcium Hardness
The calcium hardness level should be between 150-350 ppm. If the reading is well over that, the pool should be partially
drained and refilled with fresh water. If the reading is under that, chances are the pool was filled with softened water.
Calcium chloride should be added to the pool. 1 1/4 lbs will raise the calcium hardness by 10 ppm per 10,000 gallons.
Cyanuric Acid
Cyanuric acid is not required with the Aqua Elite 50 unit. If the reading is over 150 ppm, the pool should be partially
drained and refilled with fresh water.
Total Dissolved Solids
The Aqua Elite 50 unit requires some conductivity in the water for ionization to take place. A high TDS level can cause
cloudiness and the unit not to work efficiently. The TDS level should be between 300 and 2000 ppm. The TDS reading
can be obtained at any pool store.
If the reading is below 300 ppm - To raise the TDS level, you would need to add one pound of regular salt to raise the
TDS by 12 ppm per 10,000 gallons. You should only do this if you are unable to obtain the desired ion level in the pool
because of a low TDS (see chapter T on Page 16 - 17). Always consult your dealer or Clearwater with help in this matter.
If the reading is over 2000 ppm - To lower the TDS level, you should partially drain and refill with fresh water. This is
standard pool water chemistry. If the unit is being installed on a saltwater pool, the unit will work without any adjustments
and there is no need to lower the TDS level.
Copper Level
Before installing the Aqua Elite 50 unit, the copper level should be tested. There may be readings of copper sulfate in the
water from leached copper piping or from a copper based algaecide. Correct the problem by either locating the copper pipe
(usually next to a water heater) and balancing the pH, or eliminating any algaecides completely. Shock the pool with an
extra heavy dose of chlorine to get rid of the algaecides.
2

B.) IDENTIFYING THE AQUA ELITE 50 COMPONENTS
What comes in the Aqua Elite 50 box, all the components listed below.
3
Test Kit (1)
CLA-41
Electrode (1)
CLE-02
Electrode Wire Assembly (1)
Aqua Elite 50 User Manual (1) Aqua Elite 50 Quick Chart (1) Aqua Elite 50 Warranty Card (1)
2” Flow-Cell Chamber (1)
2” to 1 1/2” Reducers (2)
OZ-VIM
Venturi
Injection
Kit
with
manifold
4 Piece Molly Set
with #10 Screws
AE-50
Control Unit (1)

4
C). TOOLS AND MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Channel lock pliers • Hacksaw or backsaw • Screws & anchors
• Utility knife • Hammer • Drill & drill bit
• Crescent wrench • Teflon tape • Flexible conduit
• Screwdriver, Flat and Phillips • PVC cleaner/primer • Voltage meter
• PVC cement • Wire stripper • Bullet level
D). SITE SURVEY
The Aqua Elite 50 Clearwater Pool Systems unit should be installed at the pool's pump and filter area.
You will need to locate a place to mount the Aqua Elite 50 control box on a wall and within 10 feet or so of
where you will install the electrode chamber, within 6 feet of an electrical source and within 8 feet of the
Venturi Injector.
within 6 feet
within 8 feet
AE-50 Power box
Venturi Injector
Power Source/
TimerBox
within 10 feet
Electrode
E). INSTALLING THE ELECTRODE FLOW CELL TEE
1.) Locate a space for the electrode flow cell tee (the 2" slip/slip/threaded tee). The tee should
be installed after the pump and either before or after the filter. After the filter is preferred, but it
will work fine if installed before the filter. NEVER INSTALL THE TEE NEXT TO THE
POOL'S HEATER.
2.) Turn off the pump and close all valves. Disconnect all sources of power going to the timer
or pump.
3.) Using a hacksaw or backsaw, cut a 4-inch gap in the section of pipe if 1 1/2" pipe exists, or
cut out a 3" gap if a 2-inch pipe exists.
4.) Sand the burrs off the pipe. Dry the pipe and clean the ends with PVC primer/cleaner.
5.) If 1 1/2" pipe exists, cement the 2" to 1 1/2" reducer bushings into the tee (included with the unit).
6.) The tee should be mounted on the return line after the pump and mounted slightly downward so that no air-pocket
can form in the electrode chamber (below a horizontal position). THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. If there is
not enough "give" to allow insertion of the tee, install unions.

5
F). INSTALLING THE ELECTRODE
Generously wrap Teflon tape around the threaded part of the electrode assembly
several times. Screw electrode into the tee. Do not over tighten.
Power Source/
Pump Timer
Pump
Electrode
POOL
Filter Heater
Kynar check valve
¼" reinforced vinyl hose
Venturi Injector
Clear view window
2" manifold with
venturi injector and
ball valve assembly
1½" reducer bushings (if needed)
water flow
N = Nylon Hose Clamps
NN
N
N
G). INSTALLING THE VENTURI INJECTOR
N = Nylon Hose Clamps
Mount the venturi manifold on the return line (after the filter, pump, electrode chamber, heater, etc.) so it is the
last item before entering the pool. This is very important.
MAKE SURE THE WATER FLOWS IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROWS MARKED ON THE
VENTURI MANIFOLD.
The venturi manifold comes in two-inch pipe. If plumbing size is 1 ½", you will need to add 2" x 1 ½" reduced
bushings on each end of the manifold (included with the venturi manifold package.)

G. INSTALLING THE VENTURI INJECTOR (continued)
6
The next step involves the tubing going from the ozone power box to the venturi manifold.
Take the 8 feet long ¼" reinforced vinyl hose and size out the amount needed to go from the ozone unit
mounted on the wall going to the installed venturi manifold. You will be adding the two Kynar check
valves included with the package in-line using the nylon hose clamps to mount. The check valves are
precautionary, we strongly recommend using check valves in case of the unlikely failure of the venturi;
the main part of the manifold. This will prevent water from entering the Ozone unit with two backup
check valves in place.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU INSTALL THE KYNAR CHECK VALVES WHERE AIR FLOW IS
ALLOWED TOWARD THE INJECTOR. AIR DIRECTION CAN BE VISUALLY TESTED BY A
SMALL ARROW ON THE CHECK VALVE ITSELF. IF INSTALLED CORRECTLY, YOU WILL
SEE AIR BUBBLES ENTER THE ¾" CLEAR PVC PIPE.
THESE KYNAR CHECK VALVES AND TUBING WILL WEAR OUT OVER TIME AND
YEARLY REPLACEMENT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED. (SEE SECTION Q OF THIS
MANUAL FOR DETAILS)
DO NOT SUCK ON THE ¼" ID TUBING WHEN CONNECTED TO THE OZONE SYSTEM.
DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE OZONE BULB EXPOSED OUT OF THE METAL
ENCLOSURE OR RISK SERIOUS INJURY .
Cut the hose at the areas (depicted on page 5) to add the Kynar check valves. This location should be
within 6" of the ozone output coming from the Aqua Elite 50 connector and 6" of the venturi manifold
input connector. Add the Kynar check valves in-line in both locations. Connect one end of the hose to
the Aqua Elite 50 output connector and the other end to the venturi input connector on the manifold
assembly.
A
B C
D
E
F
OZ-VIM - Venturi Injection Kit with manifold
A. (1) 2" manifold with venturi injector
and ball valve assembly
B. (2) 2" x 1 ½" reducer bushings (only
used if 1 ½" pipe)
C. (1) 8' long of ¼" reinforced vinyl hose
D. (2) ¼" x ¼" Kynar check valve
E. (6) ¼" nylon hose clamps
F. (5) ¼"x 14" long zip ties

H). MOUNTING THE CONTROL BOX
Mount the control box on the wall within 6 feet of the electrical source and 10 feet of the electrode flow cell tee
and within 8 feet of the venturi injector.
It is strongly recommended to add a protective shade cover to keep the unit out of direct sunlight if
possible.
7
The Healthy Alternative to Chlorine

8
J). CHOOSING THE POWER SOURCE
When locating the power source, the unit should turn on and off when the pump and motor does. The best location is the
pool's timer box. If no timer box exists, you can use the pump motor as its power source by removing the back plate.
The unit will automatically work on 115VAC or 230VAC
Connecting the control box to the timer box
Below is an example of connecting the control box to a timer box. In this example an Intermatictm timer box is used.
Although most timer boxes are similar they are not exactly the same, please take care when using the provided
information.
230 VAC Operation:
Connect the black (3 stranded) wire cable to the 230 VAC timer box by splicing the 3 wires and connecting the black and
white wires to the LOAD side on the timer box. It makes no difference which colored wire goes to the two load screws.
Connect the green wire to GROUND. When installed properly, the unit should come on and off when the pool pump
goes on and off.
115 VAC Operation:
Connect either the white wire or the black wire to the LOAD side on the timer box. It makes no difference which colored
wire goes to the two load screws. Connect the green wire to ground. When installed properly, the unit should come on
and off when the pool pump goes on and off.
TO R-50
CONTROL BOX
TO R-50
CONTROL BOX
I). ELECTRICAL
Any electrical connections should be performed by a certified electrician in accordance with all electrical codes.
Aqua Elite 50 systems are universal voltage, meaning the unit will work on 115 or 230VAC without any
internal switching. When locating the power source, make sure that when the pump and motor shuts off, the
Aqua Elite 50 will too. The ideal source is the timer box. If no timer box exists, the
unit can use the pump motor as its power source. In other words, the electrical
connection should be such that the Aqua Elite 50 is supplied power only when the
power is supplied to the pool filter/circulation pump.
A permanent ground bonding connector is provided on this unit and should be used to
connect a minimum 12 AWG solid copper wire conductor to any metal equipment,
metal enclosures of electrical equipment, metal water pipe, or conduit within five (5)
feet of the unit.

9
J). CHOOSING THE POWER SOURCE (continued)
Connecting the control box to the pump motor
Disconnect the back plate to the motor where the electrical connections are. You
will notice two connections where the power source comes in and is connected.
Connect the Aqua Elite 50’s power cable (black, white and green) to the same as
the motor's connections. If connected properly, the unit should come on and off
with the motor.
K). CONNECTING THE ELECTRODE CABLE
Using the Electrode Wire Assembly, connect the two terminal ends to the connectors on each side of the
electrode's connectors by first unscrewing the nuts and then tightening them back on. IT DOES NOT MATTER
WHICH END GETS CONNECTED. Then connect the bare ends to the terminal posts coming out of the power
box. IT DOES NOT MATTER IF YOU ARE CONNECTING TO THE RED OR BLACK POST.
Terminal
ends

L). STARTING UP THE SYSTEM / SETTING THE BALL VALVE
Once everything has been connected, turn on the power to the Aqua Elite 50 unit. Make sure all the connec-
tions are complete and tight.
The next step is critical to the performance of the Aqua Elite 50.
The ball valve will need to the properly adjusted to maximize ozone output into the water. Adjust it with the
pool pump set to the lowest pump speed so that you will see a “frothing” effect in the clear view window of
the manifold assembly. This will appear to be very tiny milk-like bubbles. You will also be able to hear a
noise at the venturi injector and visually see some small bubble action coming out of the closest return line
(and possible other) in the pool.
Adjust the ball valve back until no bubbles and readjust until bubbles just appear and leave the ball valve set
at this “setting”. This bubble/no bubble adjustment can be as sensitive as 1/16" to ¼" rotation after rough
audible or visual adjustment is made. It is recommended to mark this location with a marker in case the ball
valve is accidently changed.
NEVER LEAVE THE BALL VALVE CLOSED EXCEPT FOR THIS INITIAL ALIGNMENT
STAGE. VERY IMPORTANT.
Adjust valve to proper setting to obtain the “frothing” effect.
“Frothing”
Effect
(small bubbles)
{
10
The Healthy Alternative to Chlorine

11
M). SETTING THE UNIT TO THE DESIRED LEVELS
The first step is getting the pool to the desired level of copper-ions as quickly as possible.
We recommend a copper-ion level of .15 to .20 ppm.
Make sure the pH is between 7.2 and 7.6 and never goes over 7.8
Push the button located on the front panel of the control box that has a arrow pointing ↑ up. Push it several times until
the LED lights on the control box reaches the top light, or “11”. This will be the maximum output of approximately
400mA of power going to the electrodes.
LED setting Output mA
OFF 0
1 5
2 10
3 25
4 40
5 60
6 80
7 100
8 150
9 200
10 300
11 400
There are a lot of factors that can affect the rate the Aqua Elite 50 will produce the ions (see section “T” Troubleshooting
on pages 16-17). In order to get the desired reading of 0.15 to 0.20 quickly, you will need to set the unit to its maximum
current output #11.
Other factors that affect the level ions are produced are keeping the pH under 7.8; the number of hours the filter runs, and
the setting of the unit. Other factors include water temperature and the amount of algae/bacteria already in the water.
As a rule of thumb, it will take about 24 hours to get a pool of 10,000 gallons fully "ionized" and to the desired level of
0.15 to 0.20. So if your pool is 20,000 gallons, it may take two full days of running "around the clock" to reach this level.
If you run the pool 8 hours a day (the normal time) it would take six days to reach the desired level.
Test Copper-ion levels daily at this stage until the desired levels are maintained.
Once the setting is established, it will only need to be adjusted as the seasons change.

12
M). SETTING THE UNIT TO THE DESIRED LEVELS (continued)
Using the Clearwater Pool Systems Ion Test Kit
Included with every unit is an Ion Test Kit. The easy-to-use instructions are located on the inside
cover of the lid. Please follow those instructions carefully, as the reading you get is most important
in how you set the Aqua Elite 50. When using this test kit, make sure you wait 3 minutes for the
test to develop and look down into the tube, not from the side. There is a reading or color match for
0.15 and one for 0.20 on the enclosed chart. Ideally, we would like the readings to be anywhere in
that area.
Once the Desired Level is Obtained
Once the desired level is obtained, you will need to find a setting point on the control box where the ion readings will
remain in that range of 0.15 and 0.20. The biggest factor is water temperature. As a rule of thumb, if the pool is 10,000
gallons, the reading on the control box should be around 2 or 3. It may be lower in cooler climates, or higher in warmer
climates. Someone in Maine may keep the level at 1, while in Florida it may be 3. A 20,000-gallon pool may need a
reading of 4 or 5. A 50,000-gallon pool may need a reading of 7 or 8. This is also based on running the system 8 hours a
day. It is all proportionate. So if the pool ran 24 hours a day, the settings would be 1/3 that.
When you lower your setting, it is best to test on a daily basis. If the readings continue to go up, lower the setting and
retest the following day at about the same time. If the reading goes down, increase the setting, and test again the next day.
Eventually you will find the proper setting. Once you do, the setting will stay near that the entire season. If your pool is
open year round, like in Florida, you will have a lower setting in the winter and a higher setting in the summer.
N). PROPER PROCEDURES OF MAINTAINING A HEALTHY POOL
Included with this package is a "QUICK CHART" that gives you the basics of
maintaining a proper pool. Please refer to that sheet whenever possible. If you ever
have any questions, contact your dealer or Clearwater Enviro for any assistance.
• Keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.6
• Keep total alkalinity between 80-120 ppm
• Maintain Ion level between 0.15 and 0.20 ppm
• Maintain normal pool maintenance – keep filter
cleaned, empty baskets, etc.
• Add an occasional oxidizer

13
N). PROPER PROCEDURES OF MAINTAINING A HEALTHY POOL
Adding an Occasional Oxidizer
An occasional oxidizer is necessary to burn off body oils, suntan lotions, and particles that get into the water and can cause
cloudiness. Always add an oxidizer whenever the water loses its “sparkle.” Don't wait for the water to get cloudy, or an extra
dose will be required.
There are several oxidizer options:
Non-chlorine shock - Add one (1) pound of potassium monopersulfate (non-chlorine shock) per 10,000 gallons once a week
during the warm weather season, less frequently during the cooler weather, or when the water loses its “sparkle.” You may
also want to add some non-chlorine shock after a rainstorm if the pool was left uncovered. These are available in most pool
stores, or at Leslie's Swimming Pool Supplies (1-800-537-5437) ask for "Fresh 'N Clear".
Household bleach - Add two (2) quarts of regular household bleach per 10,000 gallons once a
week. You may also use liquid chlorine – but only ½ the amount. This small amount will
dissolve rapidly and you will have chlorine-free water in a few minutes.
Tablet in skimmer - Add a 3" Trichlor tablet in the skimmer for continuous oxidizing. The
reading will be so low that it won't be detectable. This is ideal for pools with heavy swimmer use
or if the homeowner is away often.
WARNING: Excessive amounts of Copper may cause staining of pool and spa
surfaces. Always keep pH under 7.8 at all times.
O). CLEANING AND/OR REPLACING ELECTRODE
The only part of the Aqua Elite 50 that will need maintenance or replacement is
the electrodes. They should last about 1-5 years depending on your pool size,
length of swimming season, water temperature and how well the water was
balanced (ion level, pH, etc.). If the LED light “Check Electrode” comes on, it
may be time to clean or replace the electrode. To inspect the electrodes, simply
unscrew the electrode chamber with your hands and visually inspect the
electrode bars. A blue greenish coating is normal, however, if there is a heavy
buildup, you may need to clean the electrode. Using an old toothbrush and
lemon juice or a muriatic acid/water solution, scrub the buildup off the
electrode. If the electrodes are thin and worn out, they will need to be replaced.
Electrode Reordering Information:
Replacement Electrode - Part # CLE-02 - residential copper electrode for the Aqua Elite 50 Model.
Always add more teflon tape when screwing the electrode back into the flow-cell tee.

14
P). OZONE INSPECTION
The amazing thing you will notice about the Aqua Elite 50 system is the clarity of the water.
You might initially notice the water getting cloudy the first couple of days. DO NOT BE ALARMED. THIS
IS NORMAL! You will want to clean or backwash your filter after the first week.
Visual Inspection
You will want to periodically inspect the power box in the evening to ensure the unit is
functioning correctly. Turn the system on temporarily, if needed. The indicator light,
located next to the output connector will glow a nice blue color. The ozone unit should
only be on when the pump is running.
To ensure that the venturi injector and bypass are working correctly, simply observe to
see if small bubbles are entering the pool and the “frothing” effect is taking place in the
clear window of the venturi manifold window.
Periodically check the unit intake vent holes for the unlikely event of debris accumulation. It is important these
vent holes are open for air to enter the ozone unit. Do not look directly into the vent holes when the UV bulb is
operating.
Plumbing Issues
Minor adjustment of the ball valve (when installing the manifold) may be required to divert water through the
injector. This may be true with two speed or variable speed pumps. Older versions of these adjustable speed
pumps do not adjust well and you will need to adjust the ball valve to accommodate flow through the venturi on
low speed.
There is an internal check valve in the venturi injector. In the unlikely event this area becomes clogged, it may
be cleaned by removing the nut/barb and a retaining rubber seal. Care should be used not to lose the internal
ball and spring while taking the rubber seal off. Clean and reinstall.
Q). SCHEDULED OZONE MAINTENANCE
Very Important that this is done once a year!
There is very little maintenance required with the Aqua Elite 50 unit regarding the ozone production, however
we do strongly recommend you replace the ozone hose and the check valves once a year.
The ozone hose and check valves can be easily replaced in a few minutes. A complete package is available that
includes 8 feet of hose, two check valves, 6 hose clamps and 5 zip ties.
Replace ozone hose once a year
Order replacement part – OZ-HOSEKIT –
from your dealer. This complete package includes
8 feet of hose, two check valves, 6 hose clamps,
and 5 zip ties.

R). REPLACING THE UV BULB
The ozone UV bulb will need replacing after approximately 9,000 hours of use. A unique feature of the AE-50 is
that the unit comes with an exclusive “Change Bulb” indicator. When this light is on, it will be time to replace the
bulb. Order the replacement bulb noted above from your dealer. The replacement bulb will come with complete
instructions on how to change it. A condensed version is noted below:
When replacing the UV bulb, we strongly recommend you remove the unit from the wall. This is to ensure
you carefully remove the delicate equipment from the metal enclosure properly, and seal back up tightly.
Replacing the bulb in the Aqua Elite 50 unit.
1. Disconnect power from the Aqua Elite 50 unit. Coming into contact of the exposed ozone bulb can cause serious
damage to your health.
2. Remove the six (6) screws on the bottom of the unit.
3. Carefully pull off the bottom panel and slide out the 1 metal plate with the UV bulb and ballast attached to it as far as it
will go – approximately 11 inches. There is a tether holding it in place so it will not completely disconnect from the
AE-50 box. Be careful NOT to pull out any wires.
4. Cut the zip tie holding the bulb in the bulb clamp. Be careful NOT to break the bulb.
5. Carefully pull the bulb from the white connectors and the bulb clamp from holding them in place and remove. Be
careful NOT to break the bulb. Dispose of bulb properly after removal.
6. Snap new bulb in place. Secure with the metal brackets.
7. Push metal plate back into its place inside the unit. There is no need to add another zip tie as this was used for shipping
purposes.
8. Replace the bottom panel, making sure the gasket is seated in the groves properly.
9. Tighten the 6 screws back into place, securing the bottom plate tightly.
10. Reconnect power. Make sure the bulb indicator (the clear connector on the output tube of the power box) glows in a
blue color. Again, you may want to check this in the evening hours out of direct sunlight.
11. To reset the “Change Bulb” indicator light, you will need to push the two buttons (labeled “up” and “down”) at the
same time and hold for about 10 seconds. The “Change Bulb” LED light should go off at that point and be
recalibrated for the new UV bulb.
Replacing the UV Bulb
Order replacement part – OZ-50/75L –
Replacement Aqua Elite 50 bulb – from your dealer.
Carefully replace bulb in white
connector and metal bracket
Bottom of unit with
bottom panel off
Metal plate with the bulb
ballast attached to it
Zip tie holding in bulb Cut zip tie
holding in bulb
Carefully remove bulb from
metal bracket & white connector
15

16
CLA-41
CLA-42
S). ION-TEST KIT REPLACEMENT
You should replace the reagents at least once a year. You can either replace the entire test kit (exactly as supplied in the
box when you received the Aqua Elite 50 unit) or replace the reagents.
Replacement Ion Test Kit - Part # CLA-41 - Includes new complete test kit as supplied with unit.
Replacement Reagents - Part # CLA-42 - Includes new reagent bottles of “A” and “B” only.
Contact your dealer or Clearwater Enviro Technologies, Inc. for more ordering
information or visit www.ElectrodeWarehouse.com
T). TROUBLESHOOTING
Cloudy Water or Algae Present
If algae is present, you must take steps to solve the reason it formed. First, brush the algae then add chlorine to the pool to
oxidize. Check filtering system and backwash or clean filter. Check water chemistry – especially pH. Make sure ion
level is in range. You may need to oxidize more frequently if problems persist.
If cloudy water is a problem, add chlorine to clear it up. Again, make sure all readings are in the proper range and filter is
clean. Usually cloudy water is from a poor filtering system. Make sure you oxidize on a timely basis. Never add
granular chlorine without dissolving it first or pouring it directly into the skimmer.
Can't Obtain the Proper Copper-Ion Level
If you are unable to obtain the proper ion level, check all of the following factors to solve the problem:
1.) High algae growth and cloudy water / Ion level too low. A high algae growth or cloudy water will use up all
available copper and silver ions in the water that the unit can produce. This would result in a low ion level. Make sure
the pool water is balanced (see the rest of this section) and increase the power level to a higher reading. Oxidize the water
with chlorine.
2.) Correct sizing of the pool. If the pool is larger than 50,000 gallons, you may need a stronger system.
3.) Scaled, dirty or worn electrodes / check electrode light comes on. A blue-greenish coating around the electrodes
is normal. However, a build up of scale, dirt or debris around the electrodes can prevent the unit from producing ions.
Simply unscrew the electrodes and clean the buildup using an old toothbrush and use a lemon juice or muriatic acid/water
solution. (See details in section O, page 14).

T). TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)
Can't Obtain the Proper Copper-Ion Level (continued)
4.) Total Disolved Solids (TDS) is too low. If your pool has brand new water in it, and you are unable to obtain a
desirable reading on the control unit, chances are the TDS level is too low. Usually, the total dissolved solids should be
between 300-2000 ppm., and tested once a year. For the system to perform on maximum capabilities (a pool with very
warm water or a pool that is close to the maximum number of gallons rated for the system), the TDS needs to be at least
500 ppm. If installing the unit on a brand new pool, you may need to have to raise the total dissolved solids level. THIS IS
ONLY NECESSARY IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO OBTAIN THE DESIRED COPPER-ION LEVEL. First, determine the
TDS level. To raise the TDS level, you need to add 1 pound of regular table salt to increase the TDS by 12 ppm per
10,000 gallons. Once the TDS level has reached 300 ppm you will be all set, because the TDS level always raises.
If the TDS is over 2,000, you should partially drain and refill with fresh water. This is standard pool water chemistry. If
the unit is being installed on a salt-water pool, the unit will work fine without any adjustments.
5.) Improper test kit readings. Make sure you follow the proper Ion-Test kit procedures. Many people look at the side
of the test tubes instead of looking down from the top. Also, be sure to wait three minutes for the reagents to develop.
These reagents should be replaced yearly and kept out of direct sunlight and stored at normal room temperature. Failure
to do so will cause faulty readings. Never let the reagents freeze or be exposed to extreme heat.
6.) Improper pH readings This is usually the main reason for a low copper-ion level. Make sure the pH is maintained
between 7.2- 7.6 , with the lower end preferred. When the pH goes over 7.8, the ions fall out of solution. Make sure your
test kit is updated with fresh reagents and kept out of direct sunlight and in normal room temperatures. Never mix
different manufacturer's reagents with the test kit.
7.) Too much chlorine in the pool If the pool was just shocked with a lot of chlorine, this can give you an improper test
kit reading on the Ion Test Kit. The high chlorine level will "bleach" out the reading and appear to read zero.
8.) Sequestering Agents or Metal Out Removers in the water Sometimes pool owners will add a flocking or
sequestering agent to the water to remove stains or scaling in a pool or remove undesired minerals that are in the source
water. Some of these will interfere with the Aqua Elite 50’s ions such as Sequasol, Cop-Out, Metal Magnet, Aluminum
Sulfate or Alum. Products that won't cause problems and that are actually recommended to use with Aqua Elite 50
include Pool Stain Treat by United Chemical or Jack's Magic. All polymer based products like Super Blue and Sea-Klear
do not cause problems either. If you are unsure if a sequestering agent is causing a low ion level, send Clearwater
Enviro Technologies a water sample to test. If it is a problem (these agents can stay in the water for up to a year) add a
lot of chlorine to shock it out of the pool water.
9.) Steel plumbing Never install the electrodes on steel piping. Cut out a section of this and replace with PVC pipe.
10.) Improper installation Sometimes installers will mount the electrodes on a bypass line and not on the actual return
line that goes back to the pool's water. Make sure unit is installed properly with correct connections.
11.) High Phosphate level A high phosphate level will be a breeding ground for algae. If you have a lot of algae
growing and can't keep the Ion-level up, you may have a high phosphate level. Any reading over 125 ppb can cause
problems. Have your pool store test for phosphates or contact your dealer or Clearwater for more information. There are
products available that will remove phosphates from the water quickly and will eliminate algae and low Ion readings.
17
Questions? Contact your dealer or contact us at:
1-800-756-7946 (SWIM) • ClearwaterPoolSystems.com
Lifetime Support

18
U). UNIT NOT WORKING PROPERLY
If for any reason you do not get any LED lights to come on, or feel the unit is not working properly, contact your dealer of
Clearwater Enviro Technologies for support.
1-800-756-7946 (SWIM)
ClearwaterPoolsSystems.com
To Return the Unit
First you must obtain an RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization) number
from Clearwater Enviro Technologies, Inc.
The Healthy Alternative to Chlorine
Manufactured by
Established 1989
Contact customer service. (see contact info above)
Remove Control box from wall and return to:
Clearwater Enviro Technologies
8767 115th Ave
Largo, FL 33773
The RMA number must be clearly marked on the
outside of the package
Include a note inside the package with the RMA
number again and a brief description of your
problem.
Include your address and contact information.

19
AQUA ELITE 50 IONIZER & OZONE SPECIFICATION SHEET
IONIZER SPECIFICATIONS:
POOL SIZE: up to 50,000 U.S. gallons
IONIZATION METHOD: electrolysis of copper or copper/silver alloy electrodes
ELECTRODE CHAMBER: 2” schedule 40 tee with bushings for 2” or 1 ½” PVC pipe
ELECTRODE: one set 3" long, comprised of copper (CLE-02)
HEAD LOSS: Flow Rate Total Head Loss (psi)
25 gpm 0.06 psi
50 gpm 0.21 psi
Hydrostatic Pressure: Maximum Recommended Pressure: 50PSI
Ion Production: With the output set to: 250mA this ionizer produces 179mg of copper ions per hour
400mA this ionizer produces 287mg of copper ions per hour
These measurements were made with the following conditions:
Electrode Used: CLE-02 Water Temperature: 72.7 °F Total Chlorine: 0
pH: 7.45 TDS: 347 mg/L Hardness: 215 mg/L
Total Alkalinity: 85 mg/L
OZONE VACUUM ULTRAVIOLET SPECIFICATIONS:
Ozone Method: Vacuum ultraviolet lamp produces ozone that is injected into the pool by a vacuum
venturi injector to oxidize materials in the water
Ozone Output: 1.26 ppm ozone concentration (independent 3rd party testing)
VUV Lamp: Estimated 9,000 hour life span
Electrical Specifications:
INPUT VOLTAGE: 110/240 VAC @ 50/60 Hz
INPUT CURRENT: 1 A MAX @ 110VAC
INPUT POWER: 25 W MAX
IONIZER OUTPUT VOLTAGE: 24V DC
IONIZER OUTPUT CURRENT: Adjustable in 12 increments from 0 to 400mA DC
CIRCUIT PROTECTION: internal fuse and input MOV line surge protection @ 3KV
Mechanical Specifications:
ENCLOSURE MATERIAL: Extruded Aluminum - 6063-T% Electro-Chemical etched exterior that
converts the metal surface into a decorative, durable, corrosion-resistant, anodic oxide finish.
End caps – NEMA 4 ABS 94VO material with silicone sealing.
ENCLOSURE DIMENSIONS: 9.5” x 3.5” x 16”
SHIPPING WEIGHT: 25 lbs
PACKAGING/SHIPPING BOX DIMENSIONS: 12.5” x 9” x 25”
Other Specifications
OPERATING TEMPERATURE RANGE: 32 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit
WARRANTY: 3 years, parts and labor - excluding electrodes
Package includes venturi injection kit manifold
Manufactured by Clearwater Enviro Technologies, Inc. © 2019

ClearwaterPoolSystems.com
Phone: [phone] • Toll Free: 800-756-7946 (SWIM) 04/19
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