Convectium 710Shark Installation guide

710Shark Training Modules
I) Prep Prior to Production
A. Familiarize with the 710Shark
1. Make sure you have all components: oil basin, cartridge trays, air compressor, air
hose & connector, & air regulator (which is mounted on the back of the machine)
a. Check all pistons, valves, locking screws/nuts, gauges, fuses, connections
b. Tools to keep handy: a set of metric Allen wrenches & crescent wrench
(which is included in the accessory box)
B. Familiarize with the Accessory Box
1. Make sure you have all components that is shipped in a separate box when you
purchased your 710Shark from Convectium:
a. 2 Foam Blocks (use for safe storage,
needle changes, or when machine is
not in use)
b. 2 Oil Basin Lids (each with silicon
sheet mods & 4 screws to secure lid)
as circled
c. 2 Oil Basins (with 2 screws w/ nuts (to
secure oil basin to machine) as boxed
d. Spare Silicon mod, precut sheet
e. 2 sets of Sharp 18G Needles
f. 1 set of Blunt 18G Needles
g. 200ct. white O-rings (2 for each
pipette, inside injector head)
h. 100ct. black Gaskets (for injector
nozzles, located inside injector head)
i. Spare Fuses
j. 3pc. Set of Allen Wrench (keys #3,4,5)
k. 8mm/10mm Crescent Wrench
l. Power Cord
2. Recommended, but optional, tools: IR temperature gun, heat gun, heat-safe gloves,
silicon spatulas, lab stand w/ clamps for easy clean up.

3. Preheat oil & homogenize distillate oil thoroughly if terpenes were added. To save
time, preheat at least 1 hour prior to filling as pure distillate in room temperature may
be solid and will take time to become fillable.
II) Alignment & Calibration
1. For your safety, disconnect air hose to release pressure from machine prior to
alignment and calibration. Next, manually check alignment of both platforms by
pulling up on each of the corresponding pistons, located in the lower cabinet (left is
for cartridge tray & right is for oil basin).
a. Molex connector: Make sure the 2 ends are connected properly.
b. Cartridge Tray Piston: Moves cartridge tray up and down.
c. Cartridge Tray Lock Nut: Be sure to tighten in place after each piston
adjustment.
d. Oil Basin Piston: Moves oil basin up and down.
e. Oil Basin Lock Nut: Be sure to tighten in place after each piston adjustment.
2. Align Cart Tray: Loosen lock screws located under the cartridge tray platform before
adjusting X & Y axis knobs (see pics below: where x screw locks X knob & y screw
locks Y knob). You want to make sure the needles are lining up to the
cartridges/disposables properly. Be sure to fasten lock nuts back when done
calibrating the tray to the desired position. Adjust the height of how far up the piston
travels by adjusting the metal stop sleeve of the piston to move it up or down. Do this

by turning it and locking it into the desired place with the locknut found directly below
the sleeve.
3. Oil Basin: locate 2 screws that fasten the oil basin down to make sure the basin is
secure. Be sure needles are clearing into the channels of the basin, not hitting the
grooves or the very bottom of the basin. Just as you did with the tray piston you want
to adjust the height of the basin piston, by the sleeve and locking the lock nut the
same way.
Notice, the needles lining up with the channels
and the height isalmost all the way to the top,
but with a slight gap. This ensures that the
needles won’t hit the bottom of the oil basin and
inflicts damage to the needle tips.

4. Before we move on, to save time, go into Settings and preheat your heating
elements as itmay take up to 45 minutes to get toyour desired temperature.
a. Forinjector head start at SV (set value) 65°c, and oil basin SV 60°c; these
suggestions are based on 80+% potency delta-8 distillate.Temperatures
may vary as it should be determined based on the viscosity ofyour product.
(Keep in mind: viscosities change depending on density and potency of
your product).
b. You do this bygetting the injector head back to “home base” (over the oil
basin), then hit Back, to get into the Auto menu. Then click onto SV and PV
(present value) windows and type in the desired temperature setting (in
Celsius), respectively. Goback out into the Manual menu to operate.
5. Now, verify your alignment adjustments in step 1 by connecting the air hose and
turning the aircompressor on. You want the air pressure on the airregulator on the
back of the machine to be around 0.6 MPa.If it’s not building pressure,
check the air compressor and slowly turn air valve on if necessary.
a. Go in Manual mode and test by moving the injector head to each side and
have the tray move up and down. Do the same for the oil basin. Needles
should clear, without damage. Now you’re ready to calibrate the speed at
which the pistons are moving by adjusting the airvalves on the top right
side of the machine.
b. We suggest you close off all valves and slowly open them while operating
each movement to adjust to your liking. Allow more time for pulling in and
injecting out oilthan for the other valves. Keep in mind, you may need to
adjust these valves again once oilisloaded into the basin. Adjust
accordingly based upon your product’s viscosity.

The following below is a summary of what each valve controls:
Oil injector↑↓ - controls how fast it pulls up/injects out oil (adjust accordingly,
depends on oil viscosity)
Oil injector←→ - controls how fast the entire injector head moves side to side
Oil basin↑↓ - controls how fast the basin moves up/down
Cartridge Tray↑↓- controls how fast the cartridge tray moves up/down
III) Dip Test: Temp Settings, Oil Consistency
1. Once SV (set value) and PV (present value) temps are matched, and oil is pourable,
go ahead and fill the basin with oil. Now you are ready for the dip test, which is a
visual inspection of the oil’s viscosity. In other words, we are looking at how the oil
drips off the needles.
a. We do this by putting the basin up, so that needles are submerged into the oil
and wait about 1 minute to warm up the needles and then put the basin back
down to see how the oil drips off the needles and back into the basin.
b. You want to see nice rain drops, not stringing threads. If oil is stringing, it’s
too thick or not warm enough yet to fill. Once it drips cleanly you can begin
priming the injector head.
IV) Priming Injector Head
1. We prime the injector head by drawing oil in and waiting for a full minute (to allow
each pipette to fill) and then injecting oil back into the basin. Do this several times as
you adjust the Oil Injectorairflow valve, on the side of the machine, to achieve a

smooth and controlled dispense rate. Pull oil in and out a few times to test the flow
consistency.
a. To do this, start in Auto Mode and press Oil Basin to bring it up. Draw in oil by
pressing Oil Inject, wait a full minute to allow all 100 pipettes inside the
injector head to fill. Turn Oil Injectorvalve about a quarter turn to get it to
steadily draw in oil. (This adjustment will vary depending on the viscosity of
your oil).
b. Once the full minute is up, press Oil Basin to bring basin down. Then press
Oil Inject to dispense oil out while SLOWLY turning Oil Injectorvalve to
open the airflow that controls how quickly the oil ejects out. Do this several
times to prime injector head while adjusting the air flow of the Oil Injector
valves.
2. The flow of the oil should start out as steady raindrops to a nice stream of rainfall,
without stringing or violent dispensing (no rogue droplets off to the side or heavy
downpours). If it’s coming out violently and not back into the oil basin then it’s coming
out too fast; so, you want to close the oil injector valve a bit. (Tip: Practice with
isopropyl alcohol first before working with expensive oil.)
a. To close valves, turn them counterclockwise. To open them, slowly turn them
clockwise.
b. Remember, the two Oil Injector valves require more attention as their
adjustments depend upon the viscosity and density of the product. Whereas
the other 6 valves will remain static and usually won’t require much
adjustment.
V) Adjusting Fill Level
1. We test the fill level by drawing in oil and taking a single cartridge/disposable to a
corner needle and carefully insert the needle so that the tip is at least one-third into
the cartridge and inject oil while over the basin. The top of the grey ring above the
black sleeve of the injector head piston is the fill line level. If the fill level is not to

where you want it, you may adjust accordingly by turning the black sleeve up or
down to line up to the ml (ruler to the left of it) and then securing it in place with the
lock nut found directly below the black sleeve.
a. You may need to use the crescent wrench to adjust and fasten the lock nut.
b. After a few test fills, you can determine your desired fill level and begin filling
an entire tray of 100 cartridges onto the cartridge tray base. Be sure it is
secure, and that all cartridges are level.
VI) Cleaning, Maintenance & Safety
1. Lastly, the best single thing an operator must do to maintain the longevity and
integrity of this machine is to purge all remaining oil out at the end of each shift and
then flushing it out a few times with a clean basin filled with 91% isopropyl alcohol or
even better use 99% (200 proof) ethanol at least 7-10x. You can manually pull in
cleaning solvent and injecting out into basin manually 7-10 times or preset desired
cleaning cycles in Auto Cleaning cycle.
a. To do this, go into Setting Parameter and look at the very bottom of menu
choices and click onto the window that corresponds to “Clean Times”. The
number you enter is the number of times the 710Shark will pull in and out the
cleaning solvent when you set it on Auto Cleaning mode.
b. To start an Auto Cleaning once you set your desired cycle count, press Back
to go to Auto Operate. Be sure that all heating elements are off, as
cleaning solvents are usually flammable. To check this, press Auto
Operate and make sure the Heater button is off. Change out the oil basin to a
clean oil basin and carefully pour in your cleaning solvent (isopropyl or
ethanol; do NOT use acetone as it will strip the coating of the basin). Then
press Clean.
Fill line
Fasten to lock in place

2. To ensure all the solvent is gone after a cleaning cycle, make sure to purge any
residual by pulling in and injecting out air into the injector head. You should see air
bubbles coming out of the needles. Remove oil basin to properly dispose or reclaim
spent solvents.
a. To test whether all the cleaning solvent is gone or not, pull in air and inject it out
over a dry paper towel a few times. If you see drips or air bubbles then there is
still residual solvent inside the injector head. Continue to leave the plates of the
injector head open (air drawn in) to allow air in to speed up drying.
b. You can then set the injector head temp up to 85°c while leaving air in the
injector head to evaporate any residual solvent (as boiling temps of isopropyl
alcohol is 82.5°c; 78°c for ethanol) for at least the last 20 minutes of each
shift/workday.
b. Please make sure you go back into Auto Operate to turn the injector head temp
back down once you feel all residual solvent is gone. Then, turn off the heating
elements by pressing the Heater button before powering down at the end of
each shift.
c. When you preheat the machine the following day/shift, draw in air and push out
again to ensure all residual solvent is gone. Allow time to cook off residual
solvent while preheating if still needed before adding oil for your next
production run.
3. Likewise, to maintain the longevity and integrity of your equipment be sure to
release any moisture condensation inside your air compressor frequently, atthe
very least daily. You would need to do this more often if you are in a place of high
humidity.
a. To do this, locate the release valve at the very bottom ofthe air
compressor tank and slowly open itto allow air and moisture to drain out. If
you don’t do this, the water may build up and get into the machine. Over
time, this moisture may cause rust and damage toboth the air compressor
and the machine.
b. In case of an emergency, there isa safety release valve located near the
gauge of the air compressor. If you need to quickly release air pressure of
the compressor you may pull on the ring at the end of the pin of that safety
valve. Expect a loud hissing sound when you do.

Drain daily