CycloTricity eKit User manual

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Copyright Electric Bike Conversions & Cyclotricity Ltd 2011-
eKit User Manual Rear Kit
Cyclotricity Electric Bike Conversion Kit
EBC 2018 edition

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Contents
Part 1
–
Before Installation
- Disclaimer
-
Battery care
-
Charger
-
Water
-
Specifications
-
Warranty
-
Exceptions to War
anty
Part 2 – Installation Guide
- Step 1 Opening your eKit box
-
Step 2
Charge the battery
-
Step 3
Conversion tools
-
Step 4
Replacing the wheel
-
Step 5
Throttle and breaks levers
-
Step 6
Pedal Assistance Syste
m
-
Step 7
Controller
-
Step 8
Battery Rack
-
Step 9
Test
-
Step 10
Final touches
Part 3 – Troubleshooting
- Troubleshooting

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Preface
Electric Bike Conversions are a supplier of Cyclotricity electric bike kits.
The Cyclotricity eKit is supplied as a set of do-it-yourself parts for the user to install on their bicycle.
Because this kit is installed, maintained and operated by the purchaser, Cyclotricity Ltd disclaims any
responsibility for injury, damage or other consequences arising from the use of this product. Each
installation will be different and therefore it is the responsibility of the purchaser to determine the
best way to install the kit on their particular bicycle. The following instructions should be considered
as general guidelines only your installation will be slightly different.
If you do not have the mechanical ability to correctly and safely install this kit, you should obtain
the services of a professional bicycle shop or other qualified technician. Installation and use of
this kit will create a vehicle that has exposed moving parts, electrical connections and high
powered batteries.
Any or all of these components can be dangerous.

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Part 1 – Before Installation
Disclaimer
The Cyclotricity eKit is supplied as a set of do-it-yourself parts for the user to install on their
bicycle. Because this kit is installed, maintained and operated by the purchaser, Cyclotricity Ltd
disclaims any responsibility for injury, damage or any other consequences arising from the use of
this product.
Each installation will be different and therefore it is the responsibilit of the purchaser to
determine the best wa to install the kit on their particular bic cle. The provided instructions
should be considered as general guidelines only every electric bike conversion will be slightly
different. If you do not have the mechanical ability to correctly and safely install this electric bicycle
conversion kit, you should obtain the services of a professional bicycle shop or other qualified
technician.
Installation and use of this e-bike conversion kit will create an electric motor vehicle that has
exposed moving parts, electrical connections and high powered batteries. Any or all of these
components can be dangerous!
Batter care
1- The battery is detachable and comes with a key to lock it in place. Please note that
the battery lock is only meant to prevent it from falling off during cycling and should not
be regarded as a security lock against theft. We recommend you detach the battery and
carry it with you whenever you leave the bike in public places as it is the most expensive
part in your product to replace.
2- Before you use the battery for the first time it is best to give it a full deep charge for 12
hours. To fully condition your new battery give it complete deep charge, discharge cycles for
the first three charges. This is achieved by charging your battery for 12 hours and then using
the bike until the battery is completely drained.
After this “conditioning” process, you can leave the battery charging as and when you
require.
3- If you are going to leave your battery uncharged for more than eight weeks it is best left half
charged. You should then re charge it every four weeks for two hours to keep it in top
condition.
4- Check the indicators on the actual battery to see how much power you have left.
Please note that the indicators on the handlebar dashboard (if purchased) lights/bars do not
necessarily show the amount of power you have left, but the amount of load the battery is
experiencing at any one point. If the LED lights/LCD bars go down to “Empty”, then this is a
strong indication that you ought to be pedaling more to take some of the load off the
battery. This will improve the battery life cycle.
5- Do not expose the bicycle or battery pack to fire, heat sources, acid or alkaline
substances.

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6- For best results, always charge the battery at room temperature.
7- Always make sure the battery is turned off before detaching/connecting it.
8- If your battery is damaged or appears to be overheating for any reason immediately return
it for advice and a safety check.
Charger
1- Red light on the charger means the battery is charging.
When the red light turns green, the battery is fully charged. Please ignore the green light
and carry on charging for 12 hours for the first 3 charges to condition your battery.
2- Always disconnect the charger from the mains before disconnecting the charger from
the battery.
3- Do not leave the charger connected to the mains when not in use.
Water
Your eKit is rain and splash resistant and can be used in all weathers. The electrical components of
the vehicle, such as motor, battery, and controller, must not be submerged in water.
WARNING: Do not attempt to open the casings of the battery or motor as it could be dangerous
and all warranties will become void. If you experience problems, refer to the
troubleshooting guide in this manual

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Specifications
Batter range (based on 36V/7Ah): 20-30km between charges depending on terrain, weight of
cyclists, frequent use of pedals, frequency of stops/starts, air pressure in tires etc.
Batter t pe: Lithium-ion
Speed: 25km/h (15.5mph)
Motor t pe: High speed brushless geared hub motor
Motor power: 250W
Motor voltage: 36V
Gear Fitting: 250w motors have a cassette fitment. 500w and 1000w have freewheel fitment
Warrant
Only use this product in accordance with this user manual. We offer a 1 year warranty on all
items inside your eKit box. The warranty only covers technical faults which have not been in
anyway caused by the user deliberately or accidentally.
Those parts and/or products which are determined by Cyclotricity to be defective and to qualify
for warranty replacement will be provided at no charge, only after a valid warranty claim is
processed by Cyclotricity.
Warranty claims must be made by the original purchaser by contacting the original Cyclotricity
dealer within the warranty period. Shipping & Handling fees will apply to all orders placed for
warranty parts and/or products and will be invoiced to the customer/warranty claimant prior to said
parts and/or products are shipped from Cyclotricity.
Cyclotricity, at its sole discretion, has the option of replacing with a new part, or factory re-certified
part. The Limited Warranty stated herein is in lieu of and expressly excludes all other warranties not
expressly set forth herein, whether expressed or implied by law or otherwise, including, but not
limited to, any warranties for merchantability and/or fitness for any particular purpose. Cyclotricity
shall in no event be liable or responsible for incidental or consequential losses, damages or
expenses in connection with their products. The liability of Cyclotricity hereunder is expressly
limited to the replacement of goods complying with this warranty or at the sole discretion of
Cyclotricity to the repayment of an amount equivalent to the purchase price of the part in question.
NOTE: Damage caused by water, dropping or any collision is NOT covered.
Exceptions to limited Warrant
“Spin Out” Spinning out the axles inside of your dropouts We are unable to be there when the
kit is installed so it is up to you to understand the high torque involved at the dropouts and install
them correctly.
If your dropouts are not correctly suited to fit the axle then you should not install the kit on those
forks. Get new forks, file the forks to the axle fit “flush” or contact your dealership to return the kit.
We will not refund or replace a motor that has been “spun out”.

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“Over Voltage” Connecting a battery larger than 36 volts can damage the controller, wires and/or
connectors. Damaging any kit component or motor by connecting the wrong battery type will void
the warranty. The Cyclotricity eKit will work with a 36 volt Lithium-ion battery pack only. We
strongly recommend the use of a Cyclotricity battery for best compatibility and performance.
Water Damage -
The warranty does not include damage from power surges, use of improper charger, improper
maintenance or other such misuse, or normal wear. The Cyclotricity eKit parts are water resistant
and fine in the rain but should NEVER be submerged in liquid.

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Part 2- Installation Guide
Step 1 Opening your eKit box
Inside your box, you should find the following parts:
1- Thumb throttle
2- Controller
3- A pair of electric brake levers
4- Battery, battery holder and a charger (usually in a separate box)
5- Pedal Assistance Sensor (if you have chosen to upgrade your kit
with this function)
6- Handlebar dashboard (if you have chosen to upgrade your kit with this function)
7- Motor
8 System cable and motor cable

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Step 2 Charge the battery
Start by charging the battery for at least 12 hours before first time use (see Battery Care section in
this manual). In subsequent charges, however, you only need to wait until the red indicator turns
green on the charger (which is usually within 5 hours).
Step 3 Conversion tools
The following tools are needed to install the eKit:
1- 18mm spanner for front motor/ 21mm spanner for rear motor
2- 5mm, 3mm and 2.5mm hex keys
3- Pump
4- Flat and crossed screw drivers
5- Cassette or freewheel removal tool (depending on motor)
Step 4 Replacing the wheel
Note: The hub motor comes with 6 holes and bolts that are
compatible with the majority of brake discs. If your bike is
equipped with a disc brake instead of a V-brake, then your
motor should look as illustrated to the right before
assembly.
Afterwards:
oStart by turning your bike upside down so it is resting on the
saddle and handlebars.
oUnscrew the nuts and remove the wheel.
oFit the gear onto the motor
oRemove the tyre, air-tube and protection
stripe. Place them on the motor wheel
instead.
oLoosen the nuts on the motor-wheel and
insert it in place of the old wheel.

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oYou will notice that there is an unusual washer with a small axle
sticking out (called torque washer) placed on the motor spindle.
oMake sure that the axle slides inside the fork like so:
IMPORTANT: ake sure that the torque washer fits firmly inside the fork and is completely stable. If
the torque washer doesn’t fit properly, contact a local bike service shop for assistance on finding a
different washer or replacing the fork altogether. Remember that damage caused by motor “spin
outs” is not covered by the warranty.
oMake sure a normal washer is in-between the
fork and the nut. Tighten the nut using an 8-
10mm wrench as tight as you can without
damaging the fork.
WARNING: Be extra careful with alloy forks.
.
Step 5 Installing the throttle and brake levers
oRemove the rubber grips off your bike’s handlebar.
Tip: If this proves a challenge, try mixing washing up liquid in a bowl of water and soak a
towel in it. Use a flat screw driver to force a small opening from under the grip and
squeeze the soapy liquid in. Be careful not to scratch the handlebar.
oRemove the brake wire from the brake levers.
o Remove the brake levers from the handlebar.
o Replace them with the electric brake levers supplied with your kit.

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o Insert the brake wires in the new electric levers.
oTighten the levers to the handle bar using a 5mm hex key.
Note: The width of your motor rim might be different from your original rim. If your bike is
fitted with a V-brake, this would need to be adjusted. Hold the brake pads against the rim
and tighten using a hex key or a wrench depending on the type of brake you have. (If there
isn’t enough slack, loosen the wire bolt until there is about 1/8” of play and re-tighten).
oMount the throttle and tighten using a 2.5 hex key.
Note: Before tightening, consider the positions of the brake levers
and any gear shifters you may have. Determine the best order in
which these three controls are mounted on the handlebar for best
reach and ease of use.
oIf you have upgraded your kit with either and LED or LCD Dashboard, mount this on the
handlebar the same way you did with the other controls.

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Step 6 Installing the Pedal Assistance System (for upgrades only)
•The black disc split into 2 halves. Remove the out metal ring and pull the disc apart
•Fit the 2 halves of the disc around the bottom bracket axle this must be on the non
chain side of the bike. The disc can face
either way but is more aesthetically
pleasing with the flat side facing out.
•Refit the metal ring to hold the disc
together
•Attach the sensor to the frame of the
bike. You will see that the sensor has a
circle with a + in the centre. This needs
to align with the silver magnets in the
black disc. The angle of the sensor can
be adjusted so that it’s within 1-2mm of
the disc. This is essential for the pedal
assist to detect pedal movement.
•Please note that the sensor can be
fitted on any part of the frame
Step 7 Connecting the controller
The controller is the brain of the kit. As such, all electric parts must be connected through it to
function. Though the connectors may slightly vary from the diagram below, they are all either
colour coded or uniquely shaped to prevent wrong connections, all you have to do is to match the
colours and shapes.
Here are how your most essential connections will be coded:
Yellow connects to yellow (for PAS)
thin black head connects to thin black
head (for system cable)
thick black head connects to thick black
head (for motor cable)
red to red & black to black bullet
connectors (for battery)

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Step 8 Installing Battery
Install the battery.
Step 9 - Test
Use the battery key to turn the ignition on and verify whether all the parts have been connected
properly. Answering YES to all of the following questions indicates a correct installation.
1- Was the battery charged for at least 12 hours and is showing full-charge on its indicators?
2- If fitted with a Dashboard, does it switch on?
3- Does the motor spin when you apply the throttle?
4- Do the brake levers cut the power to the motor when applied?
5- (For the PAS only: does the motor start spinning when you rotate the pedals a few cycles?)
If the answer is no to any of these questions, then the corresponding device must either be:
1- Disconnected from the controller.
2- Loosely connected to the controller.
3- Wrongly connected to the controller (please refer to the diagram in step 7).
Step 10 Final touches
oTidy the excess wiring along the bike frame using cable ties in the shape you find neat.
oCongratulations, you now have transformed your bicycle to an eBike. Enjoy!

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Part 3 – Troubleshooting
The table below is by no means a comprehensive troubleshooting guide, but rather a general
guide for the most common issues. Each problem must be looked at on a case-by-case basis.
Problem
Possible reasons
Possible solutions
Speed is too
slow (less than
8MPH)
1
-
Low battery capacity
2-Battery overloaded.
3-Hall wires loose
4-Damage to motor.
5-Controller stuck on
6MPH
speed setting.
1
-
Fully charge battery.
2-The battery performs best with payload less
than 75Kg. Make sure you combine throttle power
with manual pedalling.
3-Ensure motor hall wires are connected properly
to controller.
4-Ask your dealer to fit another motor and test
the speed.
5-Connect an LED/LCD dashboard and switch the
6MPH function off.
No drive from
motor
1
-
Battery unplugged
2-Motor unplugged from
controller
3-Throttle damaged or
unplugged from
controller
4-Controller damaged
5-Motor damaged
1
-
Check
battery connection.
2-Open controller plastic box and check
connection.
3-Check if you get drive using pedal assist. If there
is drive, check throttle connection to controller.
Contact your dealer for replacement of throttle if
damaged.
4-If none of the above worked, ask your dealer to
fit a new controller and check the difference.
5-As a last resort, ask your dealer to fit a new
motor to verify whether your old motor is
damaged.
Driving range
is very low.
I.e. less than
10km (6
miles).
1
-
Tyre
pressure too low
2-Undercharged battery
3-Hill climbing, frequent
stops, head wind,
1
-
Pum
p the tyres.
2-Re-condition the battery by charging it for 12
hours and using it until completely drained.
Repeat 3 times.

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overloading.
4-Fault with charger.
5-Battery capacity loss.
3
-
Try to avoid running on throttle only as the
battery power is meant to be combined with
manual pedalling to avoid overloading.
4-Ask your dealer to charge your battery with a
new charger to verify if any difference.
5-If none of the above works, replace battery.