Deep 6 SIGNATURE Series User manual

SERVICE MANUAL
SIGNATURE SERIES
SCUBA REGULATORS
©
Version 2.0

2
DEDICATION
This manual is dedicated to those who choose to go the extra distance
and take responsibility for themselves.
Servicing your own gear is not rocket science. It does take patience,
attention to detail, a bit of training and the right tools.
For those explorers who choose to take this path, Deep6 salutes you.
We thank you for your loyalty and support.
Deep Six Expedition Dive Gear is proud to provide you with
the tools you need to explore a world most never see.

3
Table of Contents
Introducon ........................................................................................................5
Service Interval, Cauons, Safety Warnings and Service Training Reminders....6
Recommended Tools ..........................................................................................7
General Consideraons for Servicing Scuba Equipment...................................10
Pre-service Inspecon and Tesng ...................................................................12
First Stage Service
Disassembly.............................................................................................14
Frozen Threads........................................................................................20
Cleaning...................................................................................................21
Reassembly..............................................................................................24
Tuning......................................................................................................30
SPG and Hose Service
SPG and HP Hose.....................................................................................32
Low Pressure Hose ..................................................................................34
BCD Hose.................................................................................................35
Second Stage Service
Disassembly.............................................................................................36
Inspecon................................................................................................41
Cleaning...................................................................................................41
Reassembly (Inial).................................................................................42
Final Reassembly and Tuning..................................................................46
Troubleshoong................................................................................................50
Quick Reference Service Steps
First Stage Service Steps..........................................................................52
Second Stage Service Steps.....................................................................53
First Stage Reassembly Layout (Yoke).....................................................54
First Stage Reassembly Layout (DIN).......................................................55
Second Stage Reassembly Layout ...........................................................56
Service Kit Idencaon Sheets........................................................................57
Signature Regulator Schemacs
First Stage DIN.........................................................................................59
First Stage Yoke.......................................................................................60
Second Stages .........................................................................................61
Appendix A - Faceplate Disassembly.................................................................64

4
Erratum: The rst edion of this manual incorrectly specied a
#6 hook spanner to remove the Diaphragm Clamp and IP Cap.
The correct spanner is a #5 (1.5” eecve arc diameter),
with a 0.156” pin. Use of a larger arc spanner risks pin slippage
and damage to the regulator nish.
© Copyright 2022, Deep Six Expedion Gear

5
Introducon
Deep6 has introduced a regulator set that is built with precision manufactured components designed to
the highest standards in the industry. In our rst stage, computer controlled CNC milling machinery
enables precise component producon. Our specicaons are exacng, yielding consistent performance.
In our Signature Series, addional manufacturing requirements include Teon-impregnated o-rings for
crical components, a durable PVD coang and second stage bodies made with high-impact material.
Our regulators have proven themselves on the most demanding, deep technical dives. But our business
model empowers you to take command of your own service, should you desire. This can signicantly
lower the cost of ownership, placing this extraordinary equipment within the reach of the weekend
recreaonal diver.
Our rst stage oers ve low pressure ports on a swivel that will accommodate virtually any desired hose
roung. Two opposed high pressure ports make both sidemount and backmounted double tank diving
easy to congure. The regulator’s environmentally sealed and precisely balanced diaphragm construcon
yields a low Intermediate Pressure change from full to empty tank. Of special benet to both the vacaon
diver and technical diver, it requires only a quick external rinse for post-dive maintenance.
Our balanced second stage design includes both an adjustable orice and adjustable poppet spring
tension, allowing easy tuning and on-the-y accommodaon of diering breathing requirements between
primary and auxiliary second stages. A precision adjustment of Venturi ow augmentaon provides
smooth breathing at depth, while allowing a quick and easy way to prevent freeow on giant stride from a
boat, even while wearing heavy gloves.
Unique in the industry, our specially-designed “Turbine Piston” ensures laminar ow of breathing gas
down the second stage barrel on its way to the mouthpiece, greatly improving air delivery. The poppet’s
design does not require special alignment during assembly, increasing safety by ensuring complete lever
engagement in any poppet orientaon.
By oering in-person scuba regulator service training courses as well as factory service, Deep6 allows you
to control an unknown that arises with every service interval. Servicing your own equipment can
substanally decrease the cost of ownership. This service manual is your link between your Deep6 service
training and your regulator, helping to ensure that you can maintain your regulators at the same level of
performance as on the day you bought them. Addionally, this document can assist you in diagnosing
problems and making on-site adjustments should problems arise in a remote locaon.
* * *
NOTE: This manual is designed for use ONLY by those divers trained in regulator service by Deep6, or by
professional technicians already trained, experienced and acve in the service of sealed, balanced
diaphragm rst stages and adjustable, balanced, barrel-design second stages.
This manual is organized into broad chapters devoted to:
• General Consideraons, covering safety and tool-handling as covered in your Deep6 training course
• First Stage Service, further divided into Inspecon, Disassembly, Cleaning, Reassembly and Tuning
• Hose and SPG service
• Second Stage Service, further divided as above
• Troubleshoong
• Quick Reference Appendices and Schemacs
Cleaning for oxygen service is discussed in each component secon (1st, 2nd, Hose/SPG) for those who
desire to maintain the regulator’s suitability for oxygen use above 40%.
The Quick Reference chapter contains all crical steps from both 1st and 2nd stage service chapters
without addional discussion, providing the experienced technician with an easily used guide to the proper
order of crical service steps, required tools, o-ring sizes and torque values.

6
Service Interval
Deep6 Signature Series regulators have a service interval of 2 years or 200 dives, whichever comes rst.
Addionally, an Inspecon as described on pages 12-13 must be performed annually. Intermediate
Pressure and second stage cracking eort should be checked regularly, and adjusted as required. The
second stage cover and diaphragm should be removed and the interior rinsed well whenever retained
sand or debris is suspected.
Cauons, Safety Warnings and Service Training Reminders
Throughout the manual you will see symbols prompng cauon, warning you of issues which may aect
your safety, or reminding you of ps you received during service training that may help prevent damage to
your equipment during service.
A CAUTION should prompt you to reread the accompanying or referenced statement and follow its
steps or advice carefully, to avoid making a crical mistake during service that may result in
component damage or out-of-specicaon performance. Cauon statements are not repeated in
the Quick Reference Appendices, and the manual should be consulted whenever a step is encountered
that is not completely familiar to you.
A WARNING alerts you to a safety consideraon which may endanger you either during service or
during subsequent use of the equipment during a dive, if all steps are not followed exactly.
WARNINGS are of such importance that they are repeated in the Quick Reference Appendices.
SPECIFICATION A SPECIFICATION is a value range or liming value aached to a service step that must
be adhered to, to ensure proper performance. Deviaon from a SPECIFICATION may result in damage
during service, equipment failure, or inadequate performance during a dive which may result in death.
A TRAINING REMINDER is noted in the body of the manual where an important piece of
informaon conveyed in training is worth repeang, to ensure best performance. With
experience, these reminders should be well known to an experienced technician, and are not
repeated in the Quick Reference Appendices.
Schemacs
Included at the end of this manual are schemacs for the Signature Series regulators. Parts are numbered
on the schemac and are used throughout the text of this manual to guide you to a specic part on the
schemac. When idencal parts are used in both DIN and Yoke versions of the rst stage, the same
schemac number is used in both DIN and Yoke secons of the manual. Where a part is found only in a
DIN or Yoke rst stage, the schemac number in the text of this manual applies only to the DIN or yoke
schemac respecvely, and the item number is grayed out on the other schemac. Note also that these
item numbers are not the part numbers used in replacement part ordering. Those manufacturing part
numbers which correspond to a given schemac item number are separately listed on each schemac.
How to Use This Manual
Print out pages 54-58 to use during service, as well as whichever of the schemacs on pages 59-63 apply
to your parcular regulators. The remainder of the manual can be viewed on an electronic device, but it is
extremely useful to have paper copies of reassembly parts layout photos and schemacs, to avoid moving
back and forth inside an electronic document. In this fashion, you can proceed methodically through the
steps of the manual, while having references to the parts, tools and torque values close at hand.
Once you are well versed in service, it may be easiest to also print out the Quick Reference Service Steps
on pages 52 and 53, referring to the complete manual as quesons arise.

7
Recommended Tools
The following list contains all tools recommended for service of Signature Series Regulators. On page 8,
where certain of the more expensive tools have an acceptable alternave, the alternave is listed adjacent
to that tool, with accompanying notes. While listed distributors are possible sources for some items, they
are not the only source, and are included as a convenience, rather than a specic recommendaon of any
parcular vendor.
1. Torque Wrench (0-300 in-lb)
2. In-line Second Stage Adjuster
3. Padded Vise
4. Stubby at-bladed screwdriver (not pictured)
5. 3/8” drive handle
6. 3” extension (3/8” drive) for Yoke - special thin prole Scubatools 20-156-500
7. 3/8” drive sockets (3/4” for Yoke; 13/16” deep socket for DIN) (see text, pg. 17)
8. 13/16” open end wrench (or crowfoot aachment) (in lieu of 13/16” deep socket above)
9. Standard L-shaped or T-shaped hex wrenches (4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
10. 3/8” drive socket hex keys (4mm, 6mm, 8mm) (straight-sha, NOT ball-end)
11. 11/16” Open-end wrench (or adjustable wrench)
12. 11/16” Thin-prole open end wrench (or thin adjustable wrench)
13. Thin Brass Picks (curved and ball-end)
14. Sharp heavy duty plasc pick, or Apeks tool RG911233
15. Parker brass spade and blunt brass pick
16. 1/8”, 3/16” & 1/4” wooden dowels
17. Intermediate Pressure Gauge with BCD hose adapter
18. Air gun with rubber p (gas pressure limiter recommended)
19. Oxygen-safe lubricant (Tribolube-71, Christolube MCG-111 or equivalent)
20. #5 Hook spanners (two) with 0.156” pins, one with a 3/8” square broach for a torque wrench
21. So bristle brushes for cleaning (toothbrush, so brass bristle)
22. USB microscope for inspecon
23. Padded tray to contain small parts during disassembly and reassembly
24. Apparatus for tesng cracking eort (see page 48)
25. Pressurized breathing gas (Modied Grade E to maintain usability with pure oxygen), 500 & 3000 psi
See tool table with alternaves, next page.

8
ITEM BEST PRACTICE ALTERNATIVES NOTES
Torque Wrench
0-300 in-lb
CDI Dial Type
High quality digital wrench
“Click” type, if calibrated.
A breaker bar, to which is
ed an inexpensive digital
luggage scale, can be used if
funds are limited
Click wrenches are oen
inaccurate at low torque
values.
Pull on a luggage scale
must be at right angles to
the breaker bar.
Surprisingly high accuracy.
In-line Second Stage
Adjuster
Scubatools.com
PN 20-500-200, or
equivalent. Mounted IP
gauge not recommended.
Simple orice adjuster
(must have 5mm hex end)
5mm Hex Key
Second stage tuning by
sequenal hose
disassembly and orice
adjustment is slow, and
slightly less accurate.
Padded Vise Bench Mounted to accept
22 -lb torque
Temporary mount vises can
work if well secured
Padding can include short
lengths of heavy leather
cut from a wide belt, or
thin strips of wood.
3/8” drive ratchet handle
or 3/8” breaker bar
Local hardware store item
3” reduced diameter
extension to ratchet
handle or breaker bar
Scubatools 20-156-500 15” adjustable wrench if
extension can’t be obtained
For Yoke 1st stage only
3/8” drive socket - 3/4” 15” adjustable wrench
(Digital luggage scale will be
needed for accurate
torque)
For Yoke 1st stage only
Adjustable wrench jaws
must be large enough to
span yoke.
3/8” drive socket - 13/16” “Spark Plug Socket” with
chamfer ground at
13/16” crowfoot
aachment
Local hardware store item
For DIN 1st stage only
13/16” crowfoot
aachment (3/8” drive)
13/16” deep socket Alternave to socket above
For DIN 1st stage only
Hex key set,
4, 5, 6, 8mm
Local hardware store item
Straight sha (not ball end)
3/8” drive socket hex key
4mm - straight sha
Do not use ball-end hex
SEE WARNING on page 27.
3/8” drive socket hex key
6mm - straight sha
Hardware store item
DO NOT USE ball-end hex
3/8” drive socket hex key
8mm
Hardware store item
11/16” open end wrench Adjustable wrench Hardware store item
11/16” thin open end
wrench
Divers Wrench Set Thin adjustable wrench
Channellock #6SWCB
Thin Brass Picks Scubatools
PN 10-126-400
Trident #SA75
S heavy duty plasc pick Kinec Wares 30% Glass
Filled Nylon O-ring Pick
Curved sharp brass pick SEE WARNING on page 19
Parker brass spade and
blunt pick
Scubatools PN 10-102-100 No beer value elsewhere
Wooden Dowels 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4” Home Depot/Lowe’s
Intermediate Pressure
Gauge with BCD
connecon
Scubatools PN 20-165-111 Leisurepro and others Other BCD connector
types available at
Scubatools
Air Gun with rubber p Neiko 31112 Air Blow Gun
Trident AA04 BCD adapter
1/8” wooden or plasc
dowel. Clean coon rags.
See pages 15 & 18 for
further discussion
Oxygen-safe lubricant Tribolube-71
Scubatools PN 15-810-171
Christolube MCG-111
Scubatools PN 15-710-111
List connued on next page

9
ITEM BEST PRACTICE ALTERNATIVES NOTES
#5 Hook Spanner with
0.156” pin
Scubatools
PN 20-405-200
Hinged hook spanner with
appropriate pin
Hinged spanner must be
padded so that pin stays at
right angle to the hole
#5 Hook Spanner with
0.156 pin and torque
broach
Scubatools
PN 20-405-300
Digital luggage scale aached
to hole in spanner to torque
Pull on a luggage scale must
be at right angles to the
spanner.
Cleaning brushes -
Nylon bristle and brass
Toothbrush
Trident #SA28 brass brush
Inspecon microscope Binocular inspecon microscope
- $150-400
USB scope aached to
cellphone or laptop - $30
Google “USB microscope”
Padded work tray
Non-porous for oxygen
cleaning
silicone rubber mat 2mm thick;
cut to t small plasc cafeteria
tray
Small baking tray from
kitchen with silicone pad
added
Raised edges keep small
parts from rolling away
Cracking eort tool Magnehelic 0-3” WC with tubing
and mouthpiece adapter
1) U-tube manometer with
mouthpiece adapter
($2 tubing and $20 for
adapter)
2) Bowl of water and ruler
$0 cost
3) “Feel”
$0 cost
1) A water manometer is just
as accurate, but with a
slower response rate (which
may create inaccuracies)
2) A bowl of water is almost
as accurate, but depends
upon proper esmaon of
diaphragm posion
3) Tuning by “Feel” is
generally very inaccurate
See pg. 48 for discussion
Pressurized
Modied Grade E air
Regulated gas manifold aached
to EAN
Two EAN scuba tanks at 500
and 3000 psi

10
General Consideraons for Servicing Scuba Equipment
The discussion that follows is not instrucon in scuba regulator repair. Together with the TRAINING
REMINDERS in the body of the manual, this secon is intended as a set of operaonal steps that must be
followed to safely and properly service your regulators. Prior to servicing Deep6 equipment, you must
have received formal training by Deep6 or an equivalent scuba equipment manufacturer, and must have
fully reviewed this manual.
1. The Deep6 Signature regulator set is delivered oxygen clean and ready for pure oxygen use up to 2400
psi. In order to maintain that capability, it is essenal that hydrocarbons not be introduced onto regulator
components or tools during servicing. This also means that only hydrocarbon-free air be used in drying
parts and tesng. Gas with a hydrocarbon content that meets scuba standards for oxygen use is known as
“Modied Grade E”. Compressed breathing air from your local scuba shop may not meet modied Grade
E standards, specically, the less than 0.1 mg/cu meter oil mist requirement. The easiest way to ensure
modied Grade E gas is to use Nitrox in the course of your service. The lowest available oxygen
concentraon available economically (EAN32 or EAN21) is generally the best choice. Whenever the term
“clean air” is used in this manual, it refers to Modied Grade E gas as might be obtained from a scuba tank
lled with EAN.
WARNING: Use of a hardware store air compressor to provide pressurized air for disassembly,
drying or tesng is never acceptable. It will render the regulator set suitable only for use with
compressed air.
2. All tools and work surfaces should be maintained clean and free of hydrocarbon contaminants. If
cleaning for oxygen service is ancipated, tools should be specically oxygen cleaned as well. The best
work surfaces are non-porous, as they are most easily cleaned.
3. It is important to maintain a dirt and dust-free shop environment as far as possible. Airborne lint or
microbers can not only serve as fuel in case of ignion, but may land on a sealing surface, resulng in a
dicult-to-diagnose air leak. Lint-free cloth is best for mopping up excess water on newly-cleaned parts.
Specically, “microber” towels are a poor choice. Coon single-layer dish towels with a at weave (no
loops), which have been machine washed prior to use are much beer.
4. Pressurized air used to dry parts prior to assembly carries two risks: loss of parts as they are blown out
of sight, and subcutaneous gas injecon. To prevent the rst, grasp all parts rmly when drying with
pressurized air. Use a maximum of 40 psi whenever possible. Work on a surface with raised edges, such
as a cafeteria tray or baking pan.
WARNING: Prevenon of physical injury due to accidental subcutaneous gas injecon is extremely
important! OSHA denes as a “hazard” any compressed gas exceeding 40 psi. The consequences of
carrying skin bacteria into ssues by accidental injecon of high pressure gas can be catastrophic.
When using an air gun, use a device that limits delivered air pressure to 40 psi, or has a bypass vent that
limits overpressurizaon.
5. TRAINING REMINDER: Whether this manual is viewed in printed format or on an electronic
device, it is strongly recommended that the Schemac and Quick Reference picture be
separately printed out and kept adjacent to your work area. This will save ipping back and forth between
the exploded diagram and the text as the manual is followed during service.
6. Aer disassembly of all components, the corresponding replacement part from the service kit should
be laid out immediately adjacent to the old part unl all parts removed have been matched to the
corresponding service kit part. All old replacement parts should then be removed from the work area.
Thus, at the end of reassembly, no parts should remain on the work surface, serving as a cross-check that
no part has been omied.

11
7. SPECIFICATION It is mandatory that all components which have a required torque value are
reaached with measured torque. Over-torquing can result in thread failure or component fracture.
Under-torquing can result in loosening and detachment under pressure and over me. Either failure can
be life-threatening during a dive. Do not rely on esmates of proper torque.
WARNING: Do not lubricate threaded components unless specically indicated in the manual.
Lubricaon of threads can result in a doubling of the axial load on the threads for a given torque,
and may result in component failure if lubricaon has not been engineered into the torque value.
8. Three components: the first stage high pressure seat (#17), the first stage volcano orifice inside the
regulator body (#13) and the knife edge of the second stage orifice (#28) have zero tolerance
for mishandling and resultant surface damage.
Treat the HP seat extremely gently, and do not allow the polymer face to come in contact with any
metal part or tool during handling. Similarly, the sha of the HP seat must not be scratched. It is
recommended that this part be kept in its plasc envelope unl use, and carefully segregated from other
parts and tools when it is placed on a work surface.
The volcano deep inside the rst stage body must not be allowed to come in contact with any metal
part or tool. Do not insert any metal tool inside the bore of the rst stage body to retrieve a part.
The second stage orice can be easily damaged during removal. Pay parcular aenon to the steps
outlined in the manual during disassembly, and protect the second stage orice by cleaning and storing it
separately from other metal components.
9. With any imperfecon at the interface between the volcano orice and the high pressure seat, you will
have an air leak from the high pressure compartment (from the tank) into the intermediate pressure
compartment (to the second stages). This leak can be temporary, followed by a complete seal, or
connuous. A temporary leak is known as “IP dri”, in which the inial IP reading gradually increases a
few psi, unl the intermediate pressure stabilizes, or “locks up”. This oen occurs even with a perfect
volcano, as the new HP seat molds to the volcano knife edge. It may take several hundred cycles of valve
opening and closing before IP lockup is crisp with no dri.
Conversely, an IP leak which is connuous (the gauge IP pressure does not stop rising), is known as “IP
creep.” IP creep is an out-of-specicaon condion, and requires close inspecon of both the seat and the
volcano inside the regulator body. Note that IP creep can also occur due to a leak past certain o-rings, or a
scratch on the o-ring lands that seal the balance chamber. This was covered in your training.
10. It is crical to inspect and test the regulator set prior to disassembly and service. It does lile good to
replace all the required parts only to nd aer reassembly that an unrecognized problem prevented
eecve service from the outset. Out-of-specicaon performance at tesng can guide you toward the
proper diagnosis of a problem by triggering a closer inspecon of the relevant parts upon disassembly.
11. Use common sense. Do not service your regulator set at the last minute before an important dive trip.
Give yourself an opportunity to test your equipment during a dive that you can abort with minimal
inconvenience. Always remember that scuba diving is unforgiving of mistakes. Use your gear
conservavely on its rst dive aer service, and test it again aerward, following the steps in the next
chapter.

12
PRE-SERVICE INSPECTION AND TESTING
1. Examine the exterior of the regulator set. Look for signs of obvious damage, including cracks in either
the rst stage body or the case of the second. Grasping the rst stage body in one hand, aempt to
unscrew the IP cap by hand where it joins the regulator body. If looseness is found, do not pressurize the
regulator set in step #7 below unl the IP cap (#24) has been ghtened. See page 27. In this case, test the
second stage on a dierent rst stage regulator.
2. Pull back all hose guards (if any), and determine the degree of corrosion beneath the guard. Determine
that all hoses are at least hand ght, and that no o-ring extrusions are visible at port plugs or hose
connecons.
3. Examine the sintered metal lter at the rst stage intake, looking for green verdigris corrosion or rust
staining. This is evidence of salt water entry or tank oxide deposion.
4. Examine all hoses, bending them adjacent to their regulator connecons while looking for cracks in the
outer layer. Conrm that all hose ends are rigid, and the hose does not rotate beneath the swaged end
(SPG hose end excepted). If defects are noted, ensure that the hose in queson will be controlled during
pressurizaon, and that you can immediately depressurize the system.
5. Gently inhale from the second stage with the dust cap rmly occluding the air intake of the rst stage.
It should not be possible to inhale gently. Aempt to determine the source of any leak. While a loose
second stage diaphragm or ineecve exhaust valve are prime culprits, leaks can also occur due to o-ring
failure in the second stage case seals, loose or defecve hoses or a cracked case.
6. Examine the exterior of the SPG (if any). Conrm that the dial face is intact. Slide the gauge from any
console boot (which may require soening the boot in warm water), and conrm that the gauge rotates
with minimal resistance on the hose.
7. Aach an Intermediate Pressure Gauge to the BCD hose, and with one nger pressing lightly on a
second stage purge buon, pressurize the reg set (using eye protecon). Release the purge buon,
allowing the intermediate pressure (IP) to rise.
8. Watch the Intermediate Pressure gauge carefully, looking for a crisp lockup at a pressure within
specicaon. Note the IP. Watch for IP “dri”, a small gradual pressure increase which subsequently locks
up. Watch for IP “creep”, a slow (or fast) intermediate pressure increase which connues to rise above
specicaon, necessitang depressurizaon of the reg set. Be prepared to immediately depress the purge
buon to reduce pressure sent to the second stage while you are turning the tank o, if there is any
evidence of a rapid rise in intermediate pressure above limits.
9. Gently aempt to rotate the pressurized rst stage on the tank, looking for a loose yoke or DIN
housing bolt. Do not rmly try to unscrew the regulator body from its yoke or DIN mount when
pressurized - you may succeed!
10. Look, listen and feel for leaks, nong the locaon.
11. Measure second stage cracking eort, using your choice of measurement method. See discussion on
page 48 below.
12. Breathe gently from the second stage, and watch the IP uctuaon. It should drop 5-10 psi and
return crisply to its lockup pressure.

13
13. Purge the second stage and watch the IP drop during purge. Intermediate pressure should drop less
than 20 psi during a brisk purge with a full (3000 psi) tank. Excessive dynamic IP drop is caused by a) a tank
valve not fully open, b) a parally occluded metal intake lter in the rst stage due to accumulated debris
or corrosion, c) excess fricon among the internal rst stage components, likely caused by internal
corrosion, or d) low tank supply pressure.
14. Immerse the pressurized reg set in water by inverng the tank. Look for evidence of slow leaks from
any connecon. With the second stage mouthpiece facing up when submerged, look for any bubbling.
This may take me to appear, as small bubbles may inially collect in a corner of the case interior before
leaking out of the mouthpiece. Examine the HP hose for a line of ny bubbles along its length, indicang
deterioraon. Rotate the SPG underwater on its swivel connecon to the HP hose, looking for a leak.
15. Aer removal of the reg set from the water, examine the SPG face for water intrusion.
16. Make a list of all defects found, to be addressed in the appropriate service steps that follow.

14
DEEP6 SIGNATURE FIRST STAGE SERVICE
Before beginning service, take photographs or make a diagram of the regulator set to keep track of the
desired hose mounng posions at reassembly.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove all hoses together with their second stages and SPG. Remove the yoke knob (if applicable).
In preparaon for diaphragm removal, ll all ports with port plugs except for one high pressure port (for
placement of a vise holder) and one low pressure port on the side of the turret.
2. Aempt to remove the environmental cap by hand,
perhaps using a rubberized sheet for extra “grab.” If it is not
possible to loosen the cap by hand, take a #5 hook spanner
and adjust the 0.156” pin length to the exact depth of the
shallow dimple in the environmental cap (Fig. 1). Ensure that
the hook spanner chosen matches the arc of the
environmental cap precisely, so that the pin engages the
shallow dimple at a right angle to the cap. Any angle in the pin
orientaon due to an over- or undersized hook spanner risks
it slipping during removal, marring the regulator nish.
Always maintain pressure on the hook where the pin
enters the recess on the part to be removed, to avoid
having the spanner “skip out of the hole” and scratch
your nish (Fig. 2).
Whenever removing the environmental cap (#39),
remember to use a second #5 hook spanner to
maintain clockwise pressure on the diaphragm clamp
to prevent inadvertent loosening of the diaphragm (Fig. 3).
Hold the spanners and regulator in a manner similar to the
photo at right to follow both recommendaons above.
Following the training reminders above, remove the
environmental cap (#39) by twisng counterclockwise unl
the cap is loose enough to be removed by hand.
3. Set the environmental cap aside and carefully peel o the
environmental seal (Silicone Disc #38). Do not use a sharp
instrument to remove this part.
Invert the rst stage, allowing the plasc Transpiston (#37)
to fall into your hand (Fig. 4). Set these parts aside.
4. Mount the regulator body in a vise by screwing the large
(7/16”) end of a vise tool into a high pressure port, with the
adjustment cap and diaphragm clamp facing up.
Using a 6mm hex key, unscrew the spring adjuster (#35)
at least three turns (Fig. 5), until it is loose and rotates easily,
to remove mainspring pressure from the diaphragm clamp
(#36).
NOTE: Failure to remove all mainspring pressure on the
diaphragm clamp may result in the clamp springing free
during removal, damaging the last thread.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
X
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5

15
5. Aach a #5 hook spanner to the diaphragm clamp, with
the 0.156” pin extended to the depth of the recess in the
clamp. Applying counterclockwise force, loosen the
diaphragm clamp using even, increasing pressure (Fig. 6).
If loosening the clamp requires excessive force, refer to the
secon “Frozen Threads” below. Once the diaphragm clamp is
loose, remove the regulator from the vise and invert it so the
clamp is lowermost prior to unscrewing it by hand. This will
prevent several parts from falling out unexpectedly.
Carefully separate the diaphragm clamp and several loose
pieces (below) from the regulator body above (Fig. 7). You
should have a collecon of six pieces (Fig. 8) which includes,
• the diaphragm clamp (#36)
• the spring adjuster (#35)
• an anfricon washer (#33)
• the mainspring (#34)
• a second anfricon washer (#33)
• the spring pad (#32)
Set these parts aside. The diaphragm (#31) normally stays
behind in the regulator body aer clamp removal.
Diaphragm Removal
6. The safest way to remove the diaphragm (#31) is to use air
pressure to pop it out of the regulator body.
Aempng to dig a sened older diaphragm out of the regulator
risks scratching the sealing land, permanently damaging the body.
To remove the diaphragm, place a vise tool in one HP port
using the 7/16” thread end of the vise tool, and mount the
regulator body in a vise with the diaphragm uppermost. Cupping
your hand over the diaphragm to retain dislodged parts, place the
rubber p of an air gun supplied with 40psi clean air rmly against
the sole open LP port in the turret below (Fig. 9). Using a quick
pulse of pressurized air, pop the diaphragm free of the regulator
body (Fig. 10), making sure to keep control of the parts. Li the
diaphragm free of the body (Fig. 11).
If low pressure clean air is not available, do not use any
metal tool to remove the diaphragm. Instead, leave the
diaphragm in place and wait unl Step 13 below, aer
the IP cap is removed. Once the IP cap is removed, use a 1/8”
wooden dowel to push the diaphragm free by passing it
through one of the three bores that pass from the IP side of
the body to the diaphragm side.
7. Then, removing the regulator from the vise, invert it to collect
the valve lier (#30) as it falls free (Fig.12). Resist the temptaon
to remove the valve lier as it sits in place. You risk bending the
sha of the lier during manual extracon. If it is stuck in the HP
seat (#17), it will come loose in step 18 below.
Do not use any metal tool
to remove the diaphragm.
Fig. 6
Fig. 12
Fig. 11
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 7
Fig. 8

16
8. Using a 4mm or 5/32” hex key, together with a vise tool
with the small end inserted in an LP port as needed, remove
all remaining LP and HP port plugs.
Yoke or DIN Retainer Removal
During a two-year service interval of salt water diving, the threads connecng the regulator body to
the yoke or DIN retainer become impregnated with salt crystals from water which is forced along
the threads under repeated exposure to several atmospheres of pressure. It can be extremely
dicult to unscrew the retainer from the regulator body. Using a vise tool in an HP port for retainer
removal can damage the threads of the port if signicant force is required to separate the parts.
9. Secure the regulator body in a padded vise with the vise
clamps gently holding the cylindrical sides of the regulator
body (with both HP port plugs removed). Wood strips or 4-6”
strips of heavy leather cut from an old plain belt work well to
protect the nish of the regulator body (Fig. 13).
Do not clamp the regulator body in the vise! Instead,
use the vise only as a rigid container for manipulaon.
10 - Yoke: Aach a 3/4” socket to the yoke retainer, and
engage it with the Scubatools 20-156-500 extension passed
through the threaded hole in the yoke. Connect a 3/8” drive
ratchet handle or (beer) a 12” breaker bar to the extension,
and apply slowly increasing counterclockwise force unl the
retainer loosens (Fig. 14).
If a Scubatools 20-156-500 extension is not available, use a
large (15”) adjustable wrench to span the yoke and grasp both
sides of the yoke retainer (Fig. 15).
If the retainer will not come free with signicant applicaon
of force (> 30 -lb), see the secon “Frozen Threads” below.
Unscrew the yoke retainer until it is free of the body, and lift the yoke (#3), yoke
retainer (#4) and saddle (#12) from the body. If the o-ring (#11) remains behind,
carefully lift it out of the body with a plastic pick.
Do not use a metal pick to remove o-ring (#11). Any scratch on the high pressure lands in the yoke
retainer or the regulator body may result in an irreparable leak.
11 - Yoke: Using a thin wooden dowel, push the lter (#10)
out of the yoke retainer, together with o-ring (#11), if it is sll
in place (Fig. 16).
For connued Yoke Disassembly, skip to step 12 below.
10 - DIN: Place a straight sha 6mm hex key in the broach
of the DIN retainer (#7) and unscrewing counterclockwise
(Fig. 17), remove it from the DIN housing (#9). Do not use a
ball-end hex key in the DIN Retainer. If the retainer will not
come free with signicant applicaon of force (> 20 -lb), see
the secon “Frozen Threads” below.
Remove the 2-012 D90 o-ring (#15) from the DIN Retainer.
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 17
Fig. 16

17
11 - DIN: Aer removing the DIN retainer, li the DIN
Wheel (#8) o the DIN Housing (#9) and set both parts aside.
The DIN Housing is then removed with a 13/16” wrench.
NOTE: If a 13/16” deep socket is your desired tool for
removing the DIN housing, custom modicaon of the socket
may be required to avoid damaging the DIN Housing. The ats
on the Deep6 DIN Housing are low prole to allow free
rotaon of the DIN Wheel (Fig. 18). Most large sockets are
manufactured with a chamfer at the end (Fig. 19) to ease
placement onto a large nut. A chamfer may prevent the
socket from fully engaging the at (Fig. 20), markedly
increasing the shear force applied to the corners of the ats
on the housing during disassembly. You may fracture a point
of the hex on the DIN housing if signicant force is required.
An excellent opon is to prepare a custom tool by
grinding the chamfer o the end of the socket so it fully
engages the ats of the DIN Housing (Fig. 21).
Absent the ability to customize your socket, an open end
wrench that lies ush against the saddle and fully engages the
DIN Housing wrench ats may be a beer choice (Fig. 22).
Similarly, for reassembly and torquing, a crowfoot aachment
to your torque wrench may be a safer tool. Nonetheless, it
should be noted that an open end wrench or crowfoot applies
force to only two of the six ats on the hex ng, which may
make removal risky if there is signicant corrosion.
To disassemble: aach a 13/16” open end wrench or a deep
13/16” socket aached to a ratchet handle or breaker bar
(Fig. 23), and rotate counterclockwise with gradually
increasing force unl the DIN Housing loosens. Maintain rm
downward pressure on the wrench or socket, so that it does
not slip o the ats and spall the part. If the housing resists
removal, see the secon “Frozen Threads” below.
Aer removing the DIN Housing and Saddle (#12), insert
a thin dowel into the housing and push out the lter (#10)
and o-ring (Fig. 24).
Fig. 20
Fig. 23
Fig. 21
Fig. 22
Fig. 18
Fig. 19
Fig. 24

18
12. Once again, mount the regulator in a vise, using a vise
tool placed in a high pressure port. Aach a #5 hook spanner
with the pin extended to the full depth of the recess on the IP
cap (#24), and hold the hook rmly against the cap (Fig. 25).
Rotang counterclockwise, loosen the IP cap with the handle
of the spanner. If loosening the cap requires excessive force,
refer to the secon “Frozen Threads” below.
Then complete removal, unscrewing the IP cap by hand.
13. At this point, if diaphragm removal has not been possible,
use a 1/8” dowel to push the diaphragm free through one of
the three bores in the regulator body (Fig. 26). Then remove
the valve lier. If the valve lier does not fall out, wait unl
Step 18 below.
14. Using a thin pick, remove the 2-024 o-ring (#16) from the
regulator body.
Disassembly of the IP Cap
15. Screw the small end (3/8” thread) of a vise tool into the
open LP port on the side of the turret. Mounng the IP cap
(#24) in a vise with the threaded end up, place an 8mm hex
key in the Swivel Retainer (#22) and using even, increasing
counter-clockwise force, loosen the swivel retainer and
remove it (Fig. 27). If loosening the retainer requires excessive
force, refer to the secon “Frozen Threads” below.
Beneath the swivel retainer is a thrust washer. Do not
lose this part as you separate the swivel turret from the IP cap.
Set the swivel turret aside briey.
If the thrust washer does not fall into your hand, carefully
push it out of the IP cap with a ngerp from the turret side,
rather than using a tool (Fig. 28). Set the IP cap and washer
aside. Retrieving the swivel turret, and using a sharp brass or
plasc pick (Fig. 29), carefully remove the two o-rings (#25 and
#26).
16. Returning to the regulator body, and using a straight-
sha 4mm hex key, loosen but do not remove the balance
plug (#21) (Fig. 30).
Do not use a ball-end 4mm hex key!
Most ball-end hex keys will naturally rest on the HP seat
sha with the waist of the key crossing the broach.
Irreparable damage to the balance plug may occur if force is
applied to the hex broach with the key ats only parally
engaged (Fig. 31). Always use a straight sha 4mm hex! If
loosening the balance plug requires excessive force, refer to
the secon “Frozen Threads” below.
Fig. 26
Fig. 31
Fig. 30
Fig. 29 Fig. 28
Fig. 25
Fig. 27

19
17. With the balance plug loosened, turn the regulator body
balance plug down and unscrew the plug from below (Fig. 32).
Maintain slight upward pressure on the plug as it is unscrewed, as
there is a spring which will otherwise cause it to pop free,
potenally losing crical parts.
18. Carefully lower the balance plug assembly out of the regulator
body. You will have a spring (#19) and HP seat (#17) protruding from
the balance plug (Fig. 33). If the HP seat is retained in the regulator
body, carefully tap the body into the palm of your hand unl the seat
falls free. Resist the temptaon to retrieve the HP seat with a tool.
Any scratch on the sha of the HP seat will render it useless. If it will
not fall free, carefully extract the valve lier (#30) from the other side
of the regulator body, which will release the seat. Set the HP seat and
spring aside, storing the seat separately from other parts to avoid
damage.
19. Using a thin brass pick, remove o-ring #20 from the cap
of the balance chamber.
Carefully inserng a heavy nylon PLASTIC pick into the
balance chamber, hook the outside of the HP o-ring #18 and
push it toward the center (Fig. 34). With the o-ring dislodged,
hook the o-ring with the pick and extract it.
DO NOT USE A METAL PICK TO DISLODGE THE HP
O-RING! Any scratch on the inner land of the balance
chamber will create an irreparable high pressure leak
that will require replacement of the balance chamber.
If it is impossible to remove a hardened old HP o-ring with
the plasc pick, carefully spear the visible poron of the o-ring
with a sharp brass pick (Fig. 35) in as near a vercal manner as
possible, so that the sharp p of the pick never contacts the
land on the inside of the balance chamber. Then pry the
o-ring inward unl it can be removed and discarded. This may
bend your brass pick, but may be the price of removing a
hardened o-ring. Resist the temptaon to use a steel pick.
Set the balance chamber aside.
This completes disassembly of the Signature rst stage.
Fig. 34
Fig. 33
Fig. 35
Fig. 32

20
FROZEN THREADS
Threaded parts which have been repeatedly exposed to salt water at several atmospheres pressure admit
water and salt molecules along the threads which are impossible to rinse out. When the salt crystallizes, it
may cause verdigris corrosion which may “lock” the two parts together requiring a disassembly force far
larger than the installaon torque. Brass components risk deformaon if disassembly forces are excessive.
The following secon discusses ve disassembly techniques (of increasing risk to your equipment) to
separate frozen threaded parts. Although it may be counterintuive, before trying any of these methods,
rst try ghtening your connecon slightly, and then unscrewing. This may break up corrosion crystals.
A) Ultrasonic cleaning, with or without an acid bath, is the most reliable method for loosening frozen
parts. However, plasc parts that are bound up in a frozen assembly may be damaged by ultrasonic
cleaning. Addionally, eecve ultrasonic cleaners with a basin large enough for scuba regulators are
expensive and not commonly available. “Jewelry ultrasonics” oen operate on a higher, less vigorous
frequency than necessary for corrosion removal, and may have only ny basins.
B) Soaking in an acid bath is not as eecve as ultrasonic vibraon, but is possible for all owners. Acec
acid, as a warm soluon of vinegar and water in a 1:1 rao may dissolve the verdigris corrosion and the
salt crystals, allowing a subsequent disassembly aempt to succeed. Extended immersion in acec acid
may remove a ny amount of chrome, and soaking should be limited to a maximum of 10 minutes at a
me before the parts are re-examined for possible damage to the nish.
C) Cold-soaking metal equipment causes all metal parts to individually contract. A 30-minute soak in
ice-water, or two hours in your freezer may (surprisingly) allow disassembly that was not possible before.
CAUTION: A cold soak will make the metal more brile. Do not use anything but slowly increasing
force to disassemble parts aer a cold soak. Specically, avoid tapping on a wrench handle with a
hammer to begin the loosening process.
D) As crystal formaon is at the heart of the process that locks threaded parts together, forces that break
up the crystals may allow disassembly. That is why ultrasonic treatment works so well. As a “last ditch”
step to separate frozen parts, you can use percussive force to shaer the crystals.
Place the parts to be separated on a metal base, such as the closed jaws of a vise. Do not pad the
surface, but choose a smooth, at area on which to set your parts. Allow to warm aer a cold soak trial.
Place a at piece of metal on the top of the pieces to be separated, again choosing as at a surface as
possible on the parts to accept percussion. Taking a small hammer, strike briskly straight down on the
metal covering piece. The cover will accept the small dent that the hammer creates, while distribung the
force to the parts beneath. Use only a medium strike force. It is not the force of the hammer strike that
shaers the crystals, but the sudden shock wave traveling through the locked pieces that does the job.
Examine the parts for cosmec damage, and if none, repeat the strike once more.
Then secure the parts as outlined elsewhere in the manual and again aempt to unscrew them. You
may be surprised at the ease with which they separate.
NOTE: Your parts may sustain slight cosmec damage from this acon. If the only alternave
is buying new parts, this may have to be acceptable.
E) The nal suggeson we have for separang frozen threads is to use WD-40® and me. If the parts are
small enough, you can “waste” an enre can of WD-40® aerosol to ll a small cup and immerse the parts in
queson. Alternavely, heavily spray the joint and come back repeatedly to add new lubricant. Allow at
least four days for capillary acon to draw the WD-40® completely into the threads, and then reaempt
separaon. An alternave compound to WD-40® is Liquid Wrench®.
These ve possible methods have all been used successfully, with varying risk of damage to the
equipment. Aer having to do this once, one sees the value of regular disassembly and service, even when
performance is good and the IP of the rst stage is stable and locks up well over several years. One cannot
undo the eects of neglected service aer repeated immersion in salt water under pressure. Visible
verdigris corrosion along the joint lines of your regulators is a sign that a) beer rinsing aer dives should
have been done, and b) service may be due.