Dickinson Bristol User manual

Natural Draft Diesel Stove
Operating and Installation
Instruction Manual
*KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR FUTURE REFERENCE*
Bristol, Bering, Pacific, Adriatic, Atlantic &
Beaufort Models
** Please read from beginning to end before installing and operating.
Stove Serial #: __________________

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
2
Table of Contents
Table of Contents… Pg. 2
Warnings… Pg. 3
1. About a Natural Draft Diesel Stove… Pg. 4
2. Important Notes... Pg. 4
3. Ventilation… Pg. 5
4. How does the Chimney affect the Stove… Pg. 6
-Testing your Draft… Pg. 7
-Downdraft… Pg. 7
5. Installing your Stove… Pg. 7
-Location… Pg. 7
-Safety Clearances… Pg. 8
-Facing Direction… Pg. 8
-Location Diagrams… Pg. 8
-Mounting… Pg. 9
-Chimney Pipe… Pg. 9
-Chimney Pipe Diameter… Pg. 9
-Barometric Damper… Pg. 9
-Tie down Bar… Pg. 9
-Deck Fitting… Pg. 11
-Deck Fitting Diagram… Pg. 11
-Exhaust Cap… Pg. 11
-Stove Installation Diagram… Pg. 12
-Stove Securing… Pg. 12
6. Fuel System Installation… Pg. 13
-Fuel Supply & Overflow… Pg. 13
-Fuel Filter & Manual Shut-off’s… Pg. 14
-Fuel Supply… Pg. 14
-Gravity Feed… Pg. 14
-Fuel Pump… Pg. 14
7. Walbro Pump Installation… Pg. 15
-Walbro FRD-2 Pump Upgrade… Pg. 16
-Exploded Fuel Pump Diagram… Pg. 17
8. Draft Assist Fan Installation… Pg. 18
-Fan Diagram… Pg. 18
9. Water Coil Installation… Pg. 19
-Water Coil Diagrams… Pg. 20

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
3
10. Stove Operation… Pg. 22
-Lighting Procedure… Pg. 22
11. Approximate Valve & Fan Settings… Pg. 23
-Fire Diagram… Pg. 23
12. Operation Tips… Pg. 24
-Oven Damper… Pg. 24
-Importance of the “Fuel to Air” Mixture… Pg. 25
13. Flooding the Burner… Pg. 26
-Valve Height Requirements Diagram… Pg. 26
14. The Oil Metering Valve & Fuel Flow…Pg. 27
-Safety Fuse… Pg. 27
-Fuel Adjustment… Pg. 27
-Fuel Flow Measurements… Pg. 28
-Fuel Variations… Pg. 28
-Valve Operating Ranges… Pg. 29
-Valve Repair Kits… Pg. 30
-Valve Repair… Pg. 30
-Exploded Valve Diagram… Pg. 32
15. Burner Assembly… Pg. 33
-6” Burner… Pg. 33
-7” Burner… Pg. 34
16. Maintenance… Pg. 35
-Fuel Checklist… Pg. 35
-Cleaning the Burner… Pg. 35
-Cleaning the Fuel Lines… Pg. 36
-Exterior Surface… Pg. 36
-Replacement Parts… Pg. 36
17. Trouble Shooting… Pg. 38
18. Warranty Policy… Pg. 40
19. Registering your Warranty… Pg. 43
WARNINGS
- Do not operate this stove unattended.
- Turn off the stove when refueling AND do not burn gasoline.
- When operating the stove there MUST be an open fresh air vent.
- Do not light a warm burner or it can result in an explosion.
- Do not use a pressurized fuel tank.
- Do not plug the overflow fitting.
- Install a CO alarm AND Follow ALL installation procedures.

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
4
1. About a Natural Draft Diesel Stove
A Dickinson diesel stove has many advantages to other heating appliances.
They can be run on no power but has a 12v draft assist fan to provide draft
assistance. Our stoves are equipped with simple but reliable internal
components including a gravity feed oil metering valve to a vaporizing oil
burner where the fuel vaporizes by natural draft to burn a beautiful clean fire
in the viewing combustion chamber. A vaporizing oil burner is designed to
transform oil to a vapor state and then burn the vapor. Vaporizing is
achieved by the oil reaching 465 F. Once the oil is vaporized, it becomes
flammable and an efficient and clean combustion is the result.
To obtain a clean and efficient combustion, 3 factors must be in a balanced
proportion.
1. Draft- the volume of air rising through the exhaust chimney.
2. Oxygen- replacement supply of fresh air.
3. Fuel- Input in proportion to the supply of draft and oxygen.
Dickinson diesel stoves can also be calibrated to run kerosene (K) and stove
oil (S). See “Fuel Variations” on Pg. 27. This code will be indicated on the
side of the valve.
A hot water coil can be factory installed or added later to also enjoy water
heating from your Dickinson diesel stove. Hot water coils are available in a
1 turn coil for all model stoves to heat approx. 5-10 gallons of water. Hot
water coils are also available in 2 turn coils for all models except the Bristol
stove to heat approx. 15-20 gallons of water.
2. Important Notes
Here are some important notes to remember when installing a Dickinson
diesel stove:
•Mounting & location, 12v power hook-up, minimum 4ft and a
maximum 8ft of chimney, the location of hole for the chimney & the
fuel supply.

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
5
•VERY IMPORTANT: Unrestricted permanent fresh air inlet
required to draw in outside air needed for correct operation.
•Fuel must be filtered and not exceed a pressure of 4 psi or a fuel
pressure regulator must be used to avoid dangerous flooding
(Dickinson part# 20-003).
•A barometric damper must be installed to help regulate the draft. A
barometric gives you more control in the “fuel to air” mixture needed
for correct operation. The valve controls the fuel whereas the fan
increases the air and the barometric decreases the air (See Pg. 9).
•Install a CO alarm.
***Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel Baffle maybe needed if using low sulfur diesel.
3. Ventilation
Do NOT operate this stove in an enclosed area without a permanent fresh air
inlet designated for your stove. This is required to draw in outside air for correct
operation. To guarantee that fresh air is available for your stove, good
ventilation is essential. You MUST replace the air inside your boat at the same
rate that the stove is removing it. The higher the stove’s burning rate, the more
air the stove will require. If the air flow is blocked or restricted, the stove will
burn inefficiently, create soot, blow out and can even be a very dangerous health
hazard.
A permanently open fresh air inlet MUST be installed or dedicated to the stove.
This inlet must be at least 3" in diameter. Ducting to the stove is also an option.
It is important to create and maintain a positive pressure inside the boat. High
winds can draw air out from the boat and thus create a negative pressure. This
condition can result in down drafts. Ensure that when you do have windows
open that they do not create a suction effect in the cabin due to the window’s
position and the wind direction. In a similar way, it is possible for the air intake
on your engine to suck the air out of a cabin if it is not properly vented.
Your stove is a natural draft appliance and it creates its draft pressure like a
chimney in a wood stove. The rising, heated air in the chimney pulls fresh
air into the stove as it rises up the chimney and exits the flue cap. The
greater the draft pressure, the more able the stove will be to resist strong

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
6
winds, overcome flue elbows that inhibit draft and the hotter you will be
able to get your stove without sooting. A CO alarm should be installed in the
boat. We also recommend the Dickinson high heat shut-off #02-210.
4. How Does the Chimney affect the Stove?
The stove does not create the draft for a natural draft appliance to operate; it
is the chimney that creates the draft for operation. The purpose of a chimney
is to take the combustion products (smoke and gasses) from the appliance to
the atmosphere outside your boat, and at the same time, to draw air in for
combustion into the appliance. This movement of combustion air and
exhaust is called draft.
In essence, it is the difference in pressure between the air inside the chimney
flue and the outside air that creates this movement. Warmer, lighter gases in
the flue will move upward.
To keep the pressure conditions favorable, we need a tall column of warm
air inside the chimney, and cooler air outside. The warm air will tend to rise,
drawing the exhaust from the appliance out. As air exits the chimney, fresh
air for combustion is drawn into the appliance. The stronger the upward draft
in the chimney the more likely you won’t experience downdraft.
Important Factors of the Chimney
Since draft is a measure of pressure, chimney draft is affected by pressure
conditions in the boat. Several factors come into play:
1. Adequate air. First, there must be adequate air movement into the
boat to make up for the air exiting through the chimney. If the boat is
very tightly insulated, the volume of air drawn up the flue will exceed
the volume of air entering the boat, and the boat will gradually
become depressurized. With lower pressure in the boat than outside,
there will be a tendency for air to be drawn back into the boat from all
available openings including down the chimney.
2. Air movement in the boat. Second, air movement in the boat must
not interfere with the chimney. As air flows out through the one
window, air is drawn from another to replace it. This is called the
stack effect, since the boat acts like a stack, or chimney. If the stack
effect is powerful enough, it will overcome the chimney's upward
draft and pull replacement air (and smoke) into the boat through the
chimney.

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
7
3. Competition for available air. Third, there must not be too much
competition from other devices in the boat, such as exhaust fans, a
large engine or air-exchange systems. If something else is sucking the
air out of the boat, the chimney might not be powerful enough to
overcome it, and exhaust might be drawn back into the boat from the
chimney.
4. Proper chimney design. And finally, a chimney must be designed to
accommodate the volume and type of exhaust being emitted by the
appliances it serves. This involves correct sizing, adequate height, and
proper construction. See the “Chimney Pipe” section on pg. 9.
Since the chimney draft is affected by so many factors, draft problems
can be complicated to find.
Testing the Draft
To find where the air is being drawn, twist a paper towel into a wick, light it
and blow it out to create smoke. Placing the smoking wick near the open
hatches, windows or vents will lead you to the location. Installing or opening
opposing vents will allow the air to come in from a path of least resistance
and not disturb the draft in the chimney.
Downdraft
A common reason for downdraft is burning the heater too low (too much air
in the burner and not enough fuel). If the flames are burning below the top
burner ring and inside the burner pot then it is burning inefficiently causing
the draft to be too weak going up the chimney allowing downdraft down the
chimney. When the flames are burning above the top ring then the natural
draft is at its strongest so it can fight against downdraft.
5. Installing your Stove
Location
Plan your stoves location prior to installing to ensure the location chosen
will fit the specifications and safety clearances. Combustible material closer
to the stove then the specified safety clearances must be lined with insulation
or millboard and a metal liner with a .5” standoff for air movement behind.
Another alternative is using insulation or millboard and ceramic tile. The
back of the stove and the first length of chimney pipe should also be lined
with such material. See diagram below.

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
8
Safety Clearances
Above- 3ft, Sides- 2”, Behind- 2” *with protective material.
Facing Direction
The stove ideally should face the bow or stern of the boat, particularly on a
sailboat. Fuel is gravity fed from the oil metering valve into the burner so if
the valve should drop below the level of the burner, the fuel would not flow
uphill into the burner, which will put out the fire. In a beam-facing
installation, the oil metering valve may have to be relocated to the side of the
stove. There are holes located on the side to hold the repositioned valve
bracket. See diagram below. This can’t be done on the Bristol model as it
must face port or starboard only. This will allow the stove to operate up to
15 degrees. If you have any doubt regarding the need for a valve bracket,
please email us. [email protected]
Note: the stoves valve & burner should be in line with the boats keel.
Mounting

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
9
There are holes provided in the side panels at the front of the stove to allow
appropriate fasteners to secure it to the cutout. There is also a tie down bar
supplied to fasten to the bottom back of the cutout, once fastened, side the
stove into the cutout so the side panels are hooked underneath the bar. The
drip tray will then fit under the bottom of the stove.
**REMEMEBER: remove all protective plastic on ALL parts of the stove.
Chimney Pipe
The location and configuration of the chimney stack is very important to the
operation of the stove. A long, straight chimney stack will ensure a strong
draft for correct operation. The diameter of the chimney must be what is
specified. We recommend that the length of your chimney is a straight 5-6ft
run with a minimum of 4ft long and a maximum of 8ft. Avoid using elbows
and if necessary, use 45 degree elbows and allow for as much straight pipe
as possible with a minimum of 12” (28 cm) from the top of the heater. There
is no connector to connect the chimney pipe to the stove. There is a flue
collar already attached to the top of the stove and the pipe can attach by
squeezing the pipe into an oval shape and fitting it over the flue collar.
Chimney Pipe Diameters
Bristol Stove- 4” diameter chimney (10cm)
Bering, Pacific, Adriatic, Atlantic & Beaufort Stove- 5” diameter chimney
(12.5cm)
Barometric Damper
We have 2 options for installing the barometric damper into your chimney.
You can either have the barometric attached to a 22” stainless pipe to be the
first piece of pipe of your chimney off the top of the stove or a 7” piece of
pipe that you can fit into your chimney 12” to 24” from the top of the stove.
Bristol Stove:
Part# 17-001: 4” x 22” stainless pipe with barometric
Part# 17-010: 4” x 7” stainless pipe with barometric
Bering, Pacific, Adriatic, Atlantic & Beaufort Stove:
Part# 18-001: 5” x 22” stainless pipe with barometric
Part# 8-010: 5” x 7” stainless pipe with barometric

www.dickinsonmarine.com ~ [e-mail]
Form#7.2-248 Issue#2
10
The barometric damper should be installed in oil and solid fuel stoves. The
purpose is to maintain a strong draft without causing too much air to the
“fuel to air” mixture. When the damper is adjusted, the draft is altered by
allowing air to be pulled into the chimney by the air inlet on the damper and
not pulled into the burner. This gives you more control. Having a barometric
allows you to burn your stove at lower temperatures giving you the control
to adjust the draft once the fuel is adjusted to ensure a clean burn.
Install the barometric tee pipe with the front flap facing fore and aft. In order
for the barometric to work efficiently it must be installed between 12” and
24” from the top of the stove. If using a flue guard, turn the barometric tee to
the back as it does not have to be seen to work
To adjust the flap on the barometric, back off the jam nut and turn the
counterweight so the flap is standing closed. Once the stove has been
burning for some time and the room temperature is starting to rise, it is a
good time to do the adjustment. Adjust the counterweight so the flap starts to
open (aprox 6mm or ¼”). This will allow air to enter the barometric tee and
reduce the air entering the burner. This will help the flame to burn above the
top burner ring. If the flame is still burning below the ring, adjust the flap
open another 3mm or 1/8”. At this time, if there is flames burning below the
top burner ring and the barometric flap is open aprox 9mm or 3/8”, do not
adjust the flap open any further and increase the valve setting until the flame
is burning above the top ring.
Tie Down Bar Install
The tie down bar is for securing the back of the stove. Install the bar at the back of
the cut-out so the stove bottom will slide under it. There are screw holes for the
front of the stove.