Duerkopp Adler 743-121 User manual

Contents Page:
Preface and General Safety Notes
Part 1: Operating Instructions for the 743-121
1. Product Description
1.1 Technical Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.2 Patents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.3 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2. Operating the Sewing Unit
2.1 Needles and Threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.2 Threading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.3 Setting Thread Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
2.4 Changing the Configuration Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
2.5 Dart Depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
2.6 Dart Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
2.7 Setting the Insertion Depth of the Folding Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.8 Setting the Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
2.9 Positioning the Sewing Pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.10 Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
3. Maintenance
3.1 Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.2 Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

1. Product Description
The DÜRKOPP 743-121 is a sewing unit for the automated sewing of
single-point darts with straight or curved seam configurations.
Maximum seam length 150 mm.
•The unit is equipped with a machine head in double chain stitch
execution.
•A configuration set appropriate to the seam configuration holds
and guides the material.
•The seam length control occurs either via light barrier or
programming, as desired.
•Seam securing at the beginning and end of the seam through stitch
condensing in the material and thread chain
•Thread trimming system: Controlled chain trimmer
•Transport carriage drive via step motor.
•The complete control of the sewing unit occurs through a
micro-computer. It assumes the control tasks, monitors the sewing
process and signals operating errors and malfunctions.
•An electronic thread monitor prevents a renewed starting of the
sewing procedure by thread breakage or when the thread is used
up.
1.1 Technical Specification
Machine head: Class 935 - 171 -100
Needle system: 934 SIN
Needle thickness: Nm 90
Threads: As needle and bobbin thread spun
monofilament sewing threads
Stitch type: 401 Double chain stitch
Stitch number: 4.800 / min
Stitch length: 2,2 mm
Stitch condensing: 1,0 mm
Sewing length: 150 mm
Folding table: 0 - 10° adjustable
Operating pressure: 6 bar
Air consumption: approx. 5 NL per work cycle
Nominal voltage: 0743 000524 3 ~ 380 - 400 V + N, 50 Hz
0743 000574 3 ~ 220 - 230 V, 50 Hz
0743 000644 3 ~ 220 - 230 V, 60 Hz
The sewing unit is delivered with one of the listed voltage sets
appropriate to the nominal voltage.
1.2 Patents
Following patents and registered utility models apply:
Status September 1993
42 28 943
5

1.3 Optional Equipment
0794 013222 Bundle clamp with swing arm and holder pipehr.
0794 000091 Supporting table (small).
(only in conjunction with the bundle clamp)
0794 000332 Remover device for smoothing the blown-out
sewing pieces.
(only in conjunction with the bundle clamp)
0794 013333 Blower pipe from the top or the right.
0794 013444 Supporting table
(when using in-house bundle clamp wagons)
0797 003031 Compressed air connection hose, connector
plug,
connector socket and hose clamp.
2. Operating the Sewing Unit
2.1 Needles and Threads
Needle system: 934 SIN
Needle thickness: Nm 90
Threads: As needle and bobbin thread spun
sewing threads
2.2 Threading
Caution Risk of Injury !
Turn main switch off.
Upper and lower threads may only be threaded with the machine
switched off.
The configuration set must be in the left end position.
Threading lower thread (Bobbin thread)
–Place thread spool 2 on the thread stand.
–Alternatingly feed the thread through all 4 guide eyes of the take
off arm 1.
–Unlock the slider bed and pull to the side.
–Guide the thread through the thread tensioner 4 + 5 and the thread
guide 12.
–Swing up the flap 13 over the thread take up disk. Guide the thread
to the right past the pins.
–Lead the thread through the hook 14 and pull tight.
–Close the flap 13 over the thread take up disk.
The thread must be in the flap slot.
–Return the slider bed to its initial position.
Hereby the leaf spring must lock in place.
Threading the upper thread (Needle thread)
–Place thread spool 3 on the thread stand.
–Alternatingly guide the thread through all 4 guide eyes of the
takeoff arm 1.
–Guide the thread through the thread tensioner 6 + 7, thread guide
9, check spring 10 and thread monitor 11.
–Lead the thread through the needle and the thread clamp.
Cut of the excess at the thread trimmer.
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2.3 Setting the Thread Tension
There are 2 tensions to be set for each needle and bobbin thread at
the tensioning units.
The tension normal is always available.
The tension enhanced is only switched on in the area of stitch
condensing. This occurs pneumatically through the machine.
Needle thread tension:
1 normal: 70 g
2 enhanced: 120 g
Bobbin thread tension:
3 normal: 15 g
4 enhanced: 40 g
The value for the thread tension enhanced is the total tension of the
two individual tensions.
2.4 Changing the Configuration Set
A configuration set corresponding to the desired seam configuration
must be inserted.
Configuration set 0793 078001 = straight seam
Configuration set 0793 078002 = curved seam
Configuration set 0793 078xxx = customer version
Caution Risk of Injury !
Turn main switch off.
The configuration set may only be changed with the machine switched
off.
Removing the configuration set
–Turn the handwheel until the needle is in the 2nd position (OT).
–Push the configuration set to the left end position.
–Turn the grip 5 counterclockwise about 90°.
–Lift the configuration set 6 at the left side and carefully detach from
the transport carriage.
–Remove the configuration set.
Inserting the configuration set
–Turn the handwheel until the needle is in the 2nd position (OT).
–Push the transport carriage into the left end position.
–Carefully place the right side of the configuration set on the
transport carriage.
–Turn grip 5 counterclockwise about 90° and lay the configuration
set completely onto the transport carriage.
–Turn grip 5 back.
The configuration set is locked in and seated fast onto the
transport carriage.
–Position the press-on cylinder 7 with the guide roller in the control
curve 8.
–Push the configuration set to the right hand stop.
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2.5 Dart Depth
The dart depth is dependent on:
–the configuration set used
–the dart length
–the setting of the folding table
The folding table is continuously adjustable between 0 - 10°.
Example:
With configuration set 0793 078001 the dart depth is:
–maximum 0.4 cm at 0° and 9.5 cm dart length
–maximum 2.1 cm at 10°and 9.5 cm dart depth
THe diagram shows the dart depths for other angles and lengths. The
curve for configuration set 0793 078002 is also shown.
Setting the angle
–Press the handle 2 together and adjust the folding table according
to the scale 1.
–Release the handle.
The angle is set.
2.6 Dart Length
Maximum dart length 150 mm.
The dart length control occurs via programming ( Buttons L1, L2, L3 )
or the light barrier.
A programmed seam length control is recommended for diaphanous
material.
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Work range dart
Example with configuration set 0793 078001 and 0793 078002
(1) Dart depth max. 2,1 cm at 10°, Length 9,5 cm
(2) Dart depth max. 0,4 cm at 0°, Length 9,5 cm
(3) Configuration set 0793 078001
(4) Configuration set 0793 078002
Work range waist pleat
Waist pleat length (cm)
Example with configuration set 0793 078034
(1) Waist pleat depth max. 3,2 cm at 5°, Length 5 cm
(2) Waist pleat depth max. 2,5 cm at 0°, Length 6 cm
(3) Configuration set 0793 078034
Angle adjustment range
Range of shapes
Dart length (cm)
Pleat width min.
Parallel adjustment range
Angle adjustment range
Range of shapes
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2.7 Setting the Insertion Depth of the Folding Table
The first stitch of the needle into the material should occur as close as
possible to the front edge.
In order to achieve a uniformly slim dart point with differing material
thicknesses, the machine is equipped with a fine adjustment.
7 different insertion depths can be set with the stops 4.
Caution Risk of Injury !
Turn the main switch off.
The insertion depth may only be set or changed with the sewing unit
turned off.
Setting the insertion depth
–Release lever 3.
–Push the folding table a bit forward on the guide.
–Set one adjusting screw 4 ( 7-off ) to the desired insertion depth.
–Turn setting knob 2 to the desired insertion depth ( stop ).
–Push the folding table to the back on the guide again.
The adjusting screw 4 must firmly touch the stop 1.
–Tighten lever 3 again.
Changing the insertion depth
–Release lever 3.
–Push the folding table a bit forward on the guide.
–Turn setting knob 2 to the desired insertion depth ( stop ).
–Push the folding table to the back on the guide again.
The adjusting screw 4 must firmly touch the stop 1.
–Tighten lever 3 again.
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