WARNING
INSTALLATION BY A QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL REPAIRMAN IS STRONGLY
RECOMMENDED. FISHMAN TRANSDUCERS WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR
INSTRUMENTS DAMAGED DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALLATION.
PARTS
• (4) ½ " self-tapping screws • (2) 3/8" self-tapping screws
• Two plastic backing plates • Plastic latch insert
• Plastic logo insert • Endpin jack with hardware
• Preamp cutout template • Prefix preamp
• Acoustic Matrix Pickup (may be pre-tinned)
• Adhesive backed wire guide clips
TOOLS
• Detail sander with attached 2.5" (63.mm) diameter saw blade, or flex shaft
tool with 1" (25.4 mm) diameter cutting wheel, or router with 3/16" (4.76 mm)
cutter
• #43 (.089", 2.25mm) drill • #32 (.116", 2.95mm) drill
• Soldering iron (30 watt max) • Rosin core solder
• Wire strippers • #1 Phillips screwdriver
• 1/2" open end wrench • 3/32" or 2 mm Allen wrench
• 2.4mm (3/32") slot head screwdriver • 15/32" (11.9 mm) reamer or:
• Variable speed drill • Center punch
• 1/8" twist drill • 15/32" (11.9 mm) spade bit drill
• X-Acto miniature saw
PREPARE THE INSTRUMENT
I - Widen The Endpin Hole to Accept The Endpin Jack
There are two methods to widen the endpin hole:
1. Slow and Safe
If you have the time, this is the preferred method. Remove the endpin and
widen the hole to size with a 15/32" (11.9mm) reamer (available in the US &
Canada through Stewart Macdonald, 800-848-2273 part #4323).
OR
2. Quick and Clean
The objective of this method is to quickly drill out the endpin jack hole, with
the endpin or other suitable plug in place. If the endpin is loose, remove and
refasten it in the endblock with cyanoacrylate glue before starting the
procedure.
NOTE: We do not recommend this method for instruments with brittle
ornamental veneers (for example: Abalone) around the endpin hole.
1. Apply masking tape around the endblock area to protect the instrument.
2. Locate an X-Acto saw 1/16" away from the body and saw off the endpin,
nearly flush to the instrument.
3. Centerpunch a guide hole in the trimmed endpin.
4. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole through the endpin and endblock.
5. Line up 15/32" Spade bit in the pilot hole and begin drilling. Maintain a
perpendicular plunge in relation to the instrument. Use steady (but not
heavy) pressure, especially as the drill exits inside the guitar.
6. To avoid damage to the instrument, let the drill come to a complete stop
before removing it from the hole.
II - Cut Out the Preamp Cavity
PRELIMINARY WARNING: The Prefix
Premium preamp will only fit in
guitars with a clearance of at least 2
1/4" (57.15 mm) between the top and
back braces, at the point where the
preamp chassis swings inside the
instrument.
PLEASE NOTE: For instruments with solid wood sides (especially maple),
we strongly recommend that you glue 2.5"(63.5mm) x .5"(12.7mm)
plywood patches in the areas inside the guitar where the screw holes will
be drilled. Doing so will prevent the area around the mounting holes
from cracking or splintering and will strengthen the side of the
instrument at the cutout.
1. Choose the flattest possible location for the preamp on the side of the
instrument. The flattest and most comfortable location for the player is
often at the upper bout, just above the instrument's waist and well below
the shoulder. Note that the bezel will bend just enough to conform to the
curved sides of most standard sized instruments.
CAUTION! When mounting the Prefix Premium on solid wood instruments
with highly curved sides (such as small bodied acoustic-electrics),
exercise extreme caution when choosing the preamp location. A highly
curved mounting surface may cause the preamp to bind against the
mounting bezel or in worst cases, may cause the wood to crack around
the preamp mounting holes.
2. Attach the enclosed cutout template at the desired location. and cut out
the cavity for the preamp. We have found that a Fein Pneumatic Detailing
Sander (part# MOx6-25), with a 2 ½" diameter saw blade (part# 6-35-02-
096-02-3) to be an excellent choice for cutting out the preamp cavity.
3. Drill the four outside preamp mounting holes with a #43 drill (.089",
2.25mm) drill . Drill the smaller holes on either side of the latch with a
#32 (.116", 2.95mm) drill.
OUTPUT CABLE/ENDPIN JACK WIRING
IMPORTANT NOTE: To ensure full pivot action for the preamp, remember
to leave an extra 3" (76.2mm) of slack when you decide the output cable's
final length..
1. Determine the proper length for the cable, then if necessary, strip and tin
the output wires.
2. To gain better access to the terminals on the
endpin jack, gently bend back the Strain
Relief/Sleeve tab, before you begin to solder.
Jack Connections
• Red wire to Tip (short
terminal)
• White wire to Ring
(middle terminal)
• Black wire to Switch
(longest terminal)
• Shield wire to Sleeve
(strain relief)
ENDPIN JACK INSTALLATION
Follow this sequence when installing the endpin jack:
1. Large hex nut
2. Large dress washer
3. Star washer
4. Guitar end block
5. Small dress washer
6. Small dress nut
7. Strap button
Once you put the jack through the endblock, fit it so that the larger diameter
threads sit just below outside surface of the guitar. After fitting the small
dress washer and the dress nut over the end of the jack, insert a 3/32" (or 2
mm) Allen wrench (or suitably sized screwdriver or rod) through the cross
drilled hole on the end of the jack. Tighten the dress nut with a 1/2" open
FISHMAN PREFIX™ PREMIUM
PREAMP INSTALLATION
Minimum 2.250"
(57.15 mm)
Clearance between
Top and
Back Braces
Soundboard
Back
Shield to
Sleeve
Red Wire
to Tip
Black Wire
to Switch White Wire
to Ring
