Flodin Works Flodin Modelwork Saab 29 Tunnan User manual

FLODIN MODELWORKS
SAAB
J29 TUNNAN
MANUAL

2
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
ABOUT THE J29 TUNNAN
The Saab 29 Tunnan, colloquially Flygande
tunnan or just Tunnan (English: ”The ying
barrel”, ”The barrel”), is a Swedish ghter that
was designed and manufactured by Saab
in the late 1940s. It was the second turbo-
jet-powered combat aircraft to be developed
in Sweden, the rst being the Saab 21R, and it
was the rst Western European ghter to be
produced with a swept wing post World War
II, only being preceded in Western Europe as
a whole by the Me 262 built during the war.
Despite its rotund appearance, from which its
name is derived, the J 29 was fast and agile
and served eectively in both ghter and
ghter-bomber roles into the 1970s.
Role Fighter
National origin Sweden
Manufacturer Saab
First ight 1 September 1948
Introduction 1951
Retired 1976
Primary users Swedish Air Force
Austrian Air Force
Produced 1948–1956
Number built 661
DESIGN
The Saab 29 Tunnan was the rst Swedish
aircraft to be specically designed to use jet
propulsion. Sweden's rst jet ghter, the Saab
21R, had been modied from the piston-en-
gined Saab 21. It is a small, chubby aircraft
with a single round air intake in the nose,
with the pilot under a bubble canopy directly
above the air intake duct on the upper-for-
ward section of the fuselage. It has a very thin
mid-mounted moderately swept two-spar
wing which is a single structure attached to
the fuselage by four bolts. The undercarriage
is hydraulically operated, and was designed
to be suitable for use from rough airstrips.
To improve pilot survivability, the Tunnan
used an ejection seat Saab developed in 1943,
with an explosive jettisoning system for the
canopy.
The Tunnan is powered with a single 5,000 lb
(2,300 kg) de Havilland Ghost turbojet which
have a top speed in excess of 650 mph (1,050
km/h), better performance than Sweden's de
Havilland Vampires. The engine was bolted
to the fuselage at three points and a special
trolley was used to remove the engine for
maintenance. The nal version had an after-
burner, the rst successful one used with a
British jet engine.
Improvements were made to the wing
to incorporate a dog-tooth leading edge,
raising the critical Mach number. From 1963
onwards, all frontline J 29Fs were equipped
with AIM-9 Sidewinder infrared-seeking air-to-
air missiles.
UN J 29 ghters in the Congo
Text from Wikipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saab_29_Tunnan

3
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
ABOUT THE MODEL
Wingspan 800mm
Take o weight ≈800g
Motor FMS 50mm EDF 4s
Battery 4s 1500mAh
Wing loading =75g/dm2
This model is designed for printing with LW-PLA from Colorfabb. The
parts is made with spiral printing in mind as far as possible. There is a
few parts that is made with a single wall and inll instead.
I’ve tried to keep it as scale as possible to make a good looking and
convincing model. And if you like to sand and paint, this model will be a
good canvas to make a stunning looking model.
Spray putty. Eective to get rid of those layer
lines. It will give you a bit of extra weight but
you’ll sand away almost all of it.
I’ve been looking a long time to get a natural
aluminium nish. Spay paints just don’t look
like real metal. This wax-paint from AK is
actually very good.
The nose part after painting with AK True
metal.
CENTER OF GRAVITY
The CG is pretty much in the middle of the wing cord at the root. Se
image above.
MY PAINTING PROCESS
I nd it more easy to paint and detail everything bebore i assemble the
whole plane. So I glue the wings and paint them. And the fuselage as
one part and so on. After all is painted I glue them all together.
First o is sanding the surface with a quite coarse paper (about 260
grit). This will take away most of the layer lines. Then I spray it with the
spray putty. Now take a 600 grit wet paper and wet sand it until almost
all the putty is gone. You will now have a very smooth surface.
Spray it once again with spray putty and wet sand it with a 1200 grit
paper. Sand it until there is almost no putty left. Now the layer lines is
gone and the surface is super smooth.
Now it’s time to paint the base coat of aluminium. The AK true metal
is a wax paint that is smeared out with the nger. You don’t need much.
After it’s dry you can bu it up with your nger or with a cloth. It will
become very shiny and metal looking. After this you need to seal it. I
used a satin clear cote in a spray bottle.
Decal time... and of you want, wheathering. I made the decals with a
incjet water sliding decal sheet. The only problem is that it’s on a clear
base, so the background color will show through. So I touched up the
markings with yellow and blue acrylic color.
For wheathering and panel lines I used oil colors for plastic models.
One more cote of satin clear cote so seal it all and you are ready to
glue the pieces together.

4
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
PRINTER SETTINGS
Printer setting A B C D E
Material LW-PLA LW-PLA LW-PLA Clear PLA or PETG PLA
Quality
Layer height 0,2mm 0,2mm 0,2mm 0,2mm 0,2mm
Line width 0,4mm 0,4mm 0,4mm 0,4mm 0,4mm
Walls
Perimeters 1 1 1 1 2
Vase/spiral-mode Yes No No Yes No
Top/bottom
Top layers 0 0 2 0 3
Bottom layers 7771 3
Inll
Inll density 0 0 6% 0 15%
Inll pattern ——Gyroid — Gyroid
Supports No No No No No
Retract distance 0,5mm 0,5mm 0,5mm No change No change
COLORFABB’S LW-PLA
The use of LW-PLA has really been a game-changer for 3d-printed
airplanes. Half the weight and nicer surface nish.
The only con is that it’s oozing a lot.
To overcome this you can design the parts for printing with as few re-
tractions as possible. That is what I’ve tried to do with this J29 Tunnan.
Speed
With LW-PLA you have to drop the speed quite drastically. Colorfabb
recommends 40-100mm/s but I found that 25mm/s makes much more
clean and accurate parts.
Temperature and Extrusion multiplier
In my settings I use 250° and 0.45 for Extrusion multiplier. To get it
right for your machine I strongly recommend that you do a test cube
and try dierent temperatures and multiplier settings till you get a wall
thickness of 0.4mm.
Retraction
I dropped the retraction to 0.5mm. If you have the same settings as
ordinary PLA the nozzle will clog eventually.
Slicer
I strongly recommend you to use Prusa slicer. Get it here for free. All
thin wall parts is designed for Prusa slicer in mind.

5
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
f1.3mf
f2.3mf
f3.3mf
canopy front.3mf
canopy rear.3mf
lock.3mf
stopper.3mf
hatch rear.3mf
antenna.3mf
motor hatch back.3mf
motor hatch front.3mf
hatch front.3mf
f4.3mf
f5.3mf
f6.3mf
f7.3mf
f8.3mf
1 FUSELAGE
Part Material Printer setting
f1 LW-PLA C
f2 LW-PLA A
f3 LW-PLA A
f4 LW-PLA A
f5 LW-PLA A
f6 LW-PLA A
f7 LW-PLA A
f8 LW-PLA C
hatch front LW-PLA A
hatch rear LW-PLA A
canopy front Clear PLA or PETG D
canopy reat Clear PLA or PETG D
Lock PLA E
Stopper PLA E
Antenna PLA E
motor hatch front LW-PLA B
motor hatch back LW-PLA A
ASSEMBLING THE FUSELAGE
Start by cleaning all the parts from oozing.
Cut 1mm carbon rods to about 3cm length to act as positioning tools.
Glue the pieces together with CA glue.
F7 and F8 is butt joint without carbon rods. Keep calm and just work
slowly. I used masking tape to hold the parts together and used thin
CA. Remove the tape and put glue on the whole joint.

6
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
HATCH
Start by cleaning the parts. Then cut away the
oor in the front part of the hatch. See image
below.
Glue the parts hatch-front and hatch-rear
together.
CANOPY
Cut away the bottom and the sides of the
canopy. See image below. leave about 1mm
frame around the edges where the canopy
is glued together. Sand the cut so it will be a
tight t to the hatch.
Glue the canopy parts together and then
glue it to the hatch.
LOCK
Take a spring from a ball pen. If the spring is
not long enough, take a small piece of carbon
rod and put in the hole in the hatch-rear rst.
Then place the lock in place and secure the
assembly with glueing the spopper in place.
spring
lock.3mf
stopper.3mf

7
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
MOTOR HATCH
Start by glueing the motor hatch together.
The motor hatch is hold in place by 2 small
screws. Glue the small parts (lm1, lm3) to the
fuselage. Drill out the holes to t your screws.
The screws threads must bite but it should
also not be to hard to screw it in.
Glue lm2 and lm4 to the motor hatch. Drill
out the holes with a larger drillbit so that the
screw slides through.
MOTOR MOUNT
The motor is held in place by being inserted in the slot in the motor
hatch and f5.
Put the electric wires into the hole in f5.
INLET GRILL
I made the grill from ordinary PLA.
Just sand it and glue it in place.
lm1.3mf
lm2.3mf lm4.3mf
f5
motor hatch
grill.3mf
FMS 50mm EDF
lm3.3mf Part Material Printer setting
lm1 PLA E
lm2 PLA E
lm3 PLA E
lm4 PLA E
Part Material Printer setting
grill PLA E

8
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
W1.3mf
W2.3mf
W3.3mf
wing servo cover left/right.3mf
W4.3mf
aileron1.3mf
aileron2.3mf
2 WINGS
Part Material Printer setting
W1 LW-PLA A
W2 LW-PLA A
W3 LW-PLA A
W4 LW-PLA C
aileron1 LW-PLA A
aileron2 LW-PLA A
wing servo cover PLA E
Start with cleaning the parts. Get rid of all the oozed plastic at the foot
of the print. Cut away the little parts at the end of the overlapping areas
(see image).
Glue together W1, W2 and W3. Use the 5mm carbon rod to align the
pieces. Make sure that the rod doesn’t get glued.
Glue the aileron1 and aileron2. Use the 1mm carbon rod to align.
Same here... make sure that the rod doesn’t get glued.
Align the aileron to the wing and push the 1mm carbon rod through
the hole in the aileron and in the hinge in the wing, all the way into the
hole in W1.
Glue W4 in place, aligning the carbon rod in the hole in W4. Make
sure that you don’t glue the aileron to W4.
Glue the wing to the fuselage with the 5mm carbon spar.
CONNECTING THE SERVO
Screw the servo to the servo cover.
Put the wires in the channel in the wing.
Screw the servo cover to the wing.
Cut away.

9
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
3 HORIZONTAL STAB
4 VERTICAL STAB
Part Material Printer setting
h-stab-left LW-PLA A
h-stab-right LW-PLA A
h-stab-tip-left LW-PLA C
h-stab-tip-right LW-PLA C
elevator-left LW-PLA A
elevator-right LW-PLA A
elevator-tip-left LW-PLA C
elevator-tip-right LW-PLA C
Part Material Printer setting
v-stab LW-PLA A
v-stab-top LW-PLA C
elevator-left.3mf
elevator-tip-left.3mf
elevator-tip-right.3mf
h-stab-tip-right.3mf
h-stab-right.3mf
h-stab-left.3mf
elevator-right.3mf
h-stab-tip-right.3mf
As always... Clean the the parts. As with the wing you’ll ned to cutaway
a small piece where the parts overlap before glueing. Dry t the parts
and trim til you have a snug t before you glue.
Glue the elevator together. Use the carbon rod as a guide tool.
Next, glue the horisontal stab pieces together and glue them to the
fuselage with the 3mm carbon rod.
The elevator is hinged with a carbon rod so the installing is super
simple. First attach a pushrod (1,2mm pianowire) and slide it through
the fuselage through the guide holes. Then place the elevator in place
and slide the carbon rod in place.
And that’s all.
Clean the the parts.
Glue the parts together and glue the vertical stab to the fuselage with
the 3mm carbon rod.
And done.

10
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
Elevator servo
Receiver
ESC
Battery
5 ELECTRONICS
6 THROW
Glue the elevator servo to the wall and oor
of the hatch.
I used velcro to secure the receiver and ESC.
After you wheigh in the battery to nd the CG,
glue the battery holders in place and use a
velcro strap to hold the battery in place.
Recommended throw for ailerons and elevator.
I use 30% expo.
Control surface Up Down
Aileron 8mm 4mm
Elevator 11mm 11mm

11
J29 TUNNAN - MANUAL FLODIN MODELWORKS
7 TROLLEY
Cut the DXF tiles in 3mm plywood or hardboard.
Glue them together like on the photo.
Print 4 wheelhubs and 4 tyres and mount them on the trolley with m5
bolts and nuts. Make sure the wheels spin freely and don’t forget to
secure the nuts.
I glued a strip of depron on the top of the trolley to protect the wing.
Flodin Modelworks
www.modelworks.se
info@odinworks.se
Happy ying!