Galvo Shed GVO2315 User manual

page 1 - GVO2315
2.28m L x 1.53m W x 1.98-1.83m H
Sloping Roof GARDEN SHED
Parts list
The following parts are included in your shed:
a. 6 x 1830 x 780mm sheets (Back wall and roof)
b. 4 x Sloping sheets, 2 Left and 2 Right (End walls)
c. 2 x narrow 1980 x 740mm sheets (beside door - Front)
d. 1 x 1920 x 780mm sheets (Door sheet)
e. 6 x “U” channels 2255mm long, (Front & Back and Roof)
f. 4 x “U” channels 1485mm long (Side walls)
g. 2 x “U” channels 1920mm (Door sides)
h. 2 x “U” channels 793mm (Door spacers)
i. 2 x “U” channels 780mm (door tops & bottoms)
j. 2 x 1830mm “L” flashings (roof to side flashings)
k. 2 x 1980mm “Z” shaped door jambs (Front)
l. 1 x GALVO Door strap - 310mm long
m. 2 x “Z” channels (Door Brace Kit)
n. 1 pack screws and padbolt &
o. 1 pack of Rivets and hinges.
Caution: Some parts have sharp edges and should be handled very careful-
ly. We recommend the use of protective gloves and footwear when assembling.
All dimensions are approximate.
You will need these tools to assemble your shed:
 Battery or electric Drill
 3.3mm (1/8th inch) Drill bit
 Screwdriver & Riveter
 Tape measure & Ladder
Feel free to phone 0800 ENZEMBLE for an installer near you...
Do not attempt to erect shed in windy weather.
 External Dimensions: 2280mm x 1530mm
 Internal Dimensions: 2235mm x 1485mm
Please note:You should have 2 packages 1 Cardboard package with the sheeting & 1 Plastic wrapped pack of channels
GVO2315

page 2 - GVO2315
Door Assembly
Parts needed:
d. Door sheet
g. Door sides
i. Door tops & Bottoms
l. door strap
o. hinges
Method:
Rivets are better for door assembly
1. Attach (j) door top & bottom to (d) door sheet @ centre ribs only
2. Attach (g) door sides to (d) sheet through (i) @ 4 corners
3. Attach (l) door strap in centre of door sheet slipping under (g) fixing
to sheet ribs and door sides
4. Attach hinges (o) approx 150mm from top and bottom of door
through (g) sides. Fixing should be centred on (g).
5. turn your door over and fix 4 corners thru all “U” channels.
Hanging the Door
Parts needed:
- The door you have just made
c. 2 x narrow sheets
k. 2 x “Z” door jambs
Method:
1. Attach (k) 1980mm “Z”s to narrow sheets (c) on the rib with
the narrow pan.
2. Lay the premade door face down on 1 of the narrow
sheets approx 30mm up from bottom and down from top
3. Check door is centralised on the sheet (top & Bottom). fix
hinges through side of “Z” door jamb (k).
Front wall assembly
Parts needed:
- The pre-hung door you have just completed and 1
padbolt
c. 1 x narrow sheet with “Z” door jamb on it
e. 2 x 2255mm “U” channels
h. 2 x 793mm door spacers
Method:
1. Layout door with the sheet attached and the nar-
row sheet with “Z” attached as shown
2. Cap the sheets with (e) 2255 channels. Channels
will end short of sheeting 10 - 15mm. Higher side of
channel to inside.
3. Use (h) Door spacers to make sure door fits gap
OK (they sit on top of the “Z” jambs).
4. Drill & Fix (Rivet or screw) channels at every 2nd rib
down thru the top.
5. Attach door spacer at each end thru “Z” door
jambs and channels.
6. 4 fixings underneath thru channels into sheeting pan & top and bottom of (h) door
spacers & “Z”s
7. Fit the padbolt to door strap on the outside door using wide flange rivets supplied (or
screws).
Drawings are diagrammatic and are not
necessarily to detail.
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.

page 3 - GVO2315
2: Back Wall
4: End Walls
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
3: Roof
2: Back Wall A. Join 3 (a) sheets together with 2
fixings through the overlapping
ribs making sure the ends of the
sheets are flush.
B. Cap sheeting with (e) channels .
C. Fix the channels through the
end ribs and every 2nd rib be-
tween.
D. Make sure you put at least 1 fix-
ing per sheet up through the
underside of the channel into
the pan of the sheet.
(a)
(e)
(e)
You need:
2 x (e) Channels
3 x (a) Sheets
(e)
(e)
(j)
(j)
You need:
2 x (e) Channels
3 x (a) Sheets
2 x (j) “L”s
(a)
A. Join 3 (a) sheets together same as
the back.
B. Cap sheeting with (e) 2255mm
channels.
C. Fix the channels every 2nd rib but
not the corners at this stage
D. Place the short flange of the “L”
on top of the rib at 1 end. Make
sure ends are flush with sheeting
and put 1 fixing in the centre to
hold the “L”. Fix the corners
through the channels and 1 more
between the corner and the cen-
tre fixing. Perform the same at the
other end. 5 fixings ea “L”
A.Join 2 Left (b) sheets together
to give a slope at the top.
B. Cap sheeting with (f) 1485mm
channels.
C.Fix the channels through the
end ribs and every 2nd rib be-
tween.
D.Make sure you put at least 1
fixing per sheet up through the
underside of the channel into
the pan of the sheet.
E. Perform the same again for
the Right side.
(f)
(b)
You need:
2 x (f) Channels
2 x (b) Sheets
(f)
(b)
(f)
Channels will end
20 - 30mm short
at tops of end
walls and 15 - 20
at bottoms

page 4 - GVO2315
Well done you have finished the panels….
Points to note as you construct your shed:
 Do not attempt to assemble panels in windy conditions
 Make sure your foundations are squared and level before erecting panels.
 It is easier to remove all swarf (filings) before you stand your walls up
 Complete all panels before erecting your shed.
 Keep a firm grip on panels when handling. If they slip they will cause damage.
 Always wear non slip gloves protective footwear and eyewear.
5: Now to join your corners and put your roof on….
1st: Stand up the back wall and as your helping hand is holding it up bring the one end wall into
meet it at the left corner overlapping the corners as Fig 1. Drill & Fix at approx 100mm down from
the top and up from the bottom drilling and fixing from the outside.
2nd: Bring the other end wall into the right back corner and perform the same again checking to
make sure the walls are sitting flat at the bottom
3rd: Bring the front wall into place and join the front corners to the end walls same as the
back.
4th: Finish joining corners by fixing at approx 300mm apart. You will find it easier to drill
these corners if they are supported on the inside. Use the handle end of a hammer
into the inside of the corner, but beware of drilling holes in the end of your hammer.
5th: With a person at each end of the roof, waft it over top of your upright walls and
lower down on top with an overhang that looks best to you. At the left end fix thru
the “L” flashing into the top channel of the left end wall. Measure the overhang at
the back and fix the right end “L” to the right end wall with the same overhang as
the Left end. If the roof is difficult to get to the same overhang at each end this will
be caused by unlevel site or walls are not square. Adjust accordingly. Fix “L”s at
300mm’s apart.
6th: Using your ladder and tape measure, fix down thru the top of the roof, thru the pan
into the top channel of front and back walls. (10mm more than the overhang). Fix
beside every 2nd rib. (Fig 2). You will not need to worry about these fixings leaking
as any water seeping thru these fixings will end up on the outside of the walls.
7th: Attach padbolt to door strap if not already done so. Check that all swarf is re-
moved and most importantly….
8th: Fix your shed down to its foundations. If your foundations are unlevel or bowed, you
will have problems with your padbolt and door levels. This can be fixed by slipping a
spade under either door jamb and lifting. You will soon get a feel for which side
needs propping up. Well done!
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
Recessed floor clamps
For especially poured floors
with recess around perimeter.
Flat floor clamps
For existing concrete only.
Water can seep underneath.
Fig 1
Fig 2
It is utmost essential that every shed has
a floor, but the only way to make sure
your shed is there to stay on windy sites is
with a recessed concrete floor and phone
0800 80 SHED for more free advise.
1. The door braces can be fitted now that you have assembled your
shed.
2. Tuck one end of the 'Z' between the bottom channel of the inside
of the door and the sheet. Do the same at the top, overlapping in
the centre behind the padbolt. If you have a locking 'T' handle you
will have to run the 'Z's the opposite way to the diagram.
3. Rivet the 'Z's at the ends, and in the centre of the channel it is
tucked under, and through the overlap in the centre. Two or three
more rivets will be required through the door sheeting into the 'Z', but
they will need to be riveted through from the outside of the door for
a neater appearance.
4. You may need to cut or bend the flange at the bottom and the