GREAT PLANES Super Decathlon 40 User manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK
PLEASE READ THROUGH THISINSTRUCTION BOOKLET IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING
ASSEMBLY. ITCONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable ofserious bodily
harm and property damage. ITISYOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE - to
build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flyinggear (engine, tank,
pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and flyit only withexperienced, competent help,using
common sense and in accordance with all safety standards as setdown in the Academy ofModel
Aeronautics Safety Code.It is suggested that you jointhe AMA to become properly insured
before you attempt to flythis model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING,
CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TOTHEACADEMY OF MODEL
AERONAUTICS TOFIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy ofModel Aeronautics
5151East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252 [phone] DE40P03

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION .................. 3
Precautions ........................ 3
Abbreviations ....................... 3
Die Patterns ........................ 4
Decisions You Must Make Now ......... 5
Other Items Required ................. 5
Supplies and Tools Needed ............ 5
Types of Wood ..................... 6
Hardware Drawings .................. 6
Get Ready to Build ................... 6
TAIL FEATHERS ..................6
Build the Rudder .................... 6
Build the Fin ....................... 7
Build the Stabilizer .................. 8
Build the Elevators ................... 8
Install the Hinges .................... 9
WING ASSEMBLY .................9
Build the Wing Panels ................ 9
Join the Wing Panels ................. 12
Install Center Ribs and Sheeting ......... 13
Install Aileron Torque Rods ............ 13
Fiberglass the Center Section ........... 14
Install Wing Tips .................... 15
Install Ailerons ...................... 15
Temporarily Install Wing Dowels ....... 16
Install Wing Bolt Plate ................ 16
InstallWingStrutPlates ...............16
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ............17
Prepare Fuse Sides ................... 17
Assemble Lower Fuselage ............. 17
Assemble Upper Fuselage ............. 20
Mount the Wing to the Fuse ............ 23
Mount Stabilizer and Fin .............. 24
FINAL ASSEMBLY ................ 25
Engine Installation ................... 25
Install "2-cycle firewall" ............. 25
Drill Engine Mount .................. 26
Install Servos, Horns and Pushrods ...... 26
Control Surface Throws ............... 29
Fitting Fuel Tank, Fuelproofing ......... 29
Install Wing Strut Straps .............. 30
Install Receiver, Switch and Battery .....30
Install Main Landing Gear ............. 30
Install Wheel Pants .................. 31
Fit Cowl ........................... 32
FINISHING .......................33
Additional Fuelproofing ............... 33
Balance the Airplane Laterally .......... 33
Final Sanding ....................... 33
Covering .......................... 33
Apply Decals and Trim ............... 34
Glue the hinges ..................... 35
Install Windshield ................... 35
Wing Seating ....................... 36
InstallWingStruts ...................36
Install Side Windows ................. 37
Balance Your Model ................. 37
Final Hookups and Checks ............. 38
PRE-FLIGHT ..................... 38
Charge the Batteries .................. 38
Find a Safe Place to Fly ............... 38
Ground Check the Model .............. 39
Range Check Your Radio .............. 39
EngineSafety Precautions ............. 39
AMA Safety Code..................39
FLYING ..........................40
Caution ........................... 40
NOTES ...........................41
PARTS LIST ......................42
3-View Drawing ....................44
Pleaseinspect all parts carefully before starting to build!Ifany parts are missing, broken
ordefective,orifyouhaveanyquestionsaboutbuildingorflyingthisairplane,pleasecallusat(217)
367-2069 andwe'll beglad tohelp. Ifyou are callingfor replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and thekitidentification number (stamped onthe end ofthe carton) and havethem ready
when calling.
2

INTRODUCTION
Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Super Decathlon 40!
The Super Decathlon 40 isa 1/6-scalemodel of a full-
sizeBellanca Super Decathlon, owned by PeteMyers, lo-
catedat Howell Airport in New Lenox, IL. The airplane was
builtbyChampion Aircraft in 1979.Petecalls his Super
Decathlon "experimental" because he has made a few
changes toenhance itsacrobatic capabilities, the mostnotice-
able ofwhich are the squared-off "clipped" wing tips.The
normal wingspan wouldbe32';but,due tothe specialtips,
Pete's Decathlon spans only30.5'.You will notice that the
model's wingspan has beenincreased by5% to enhance the
flyingqualities.
Ifyou are interested insport scalecompetition, you'llbe
happy toknow that color photos of Pete's full-size Super
Decathlon areavailablefrom Scale ModelResearch, 2334
Ticonderoga Way,Costa Mesa, CA 92626.
The Super Decathlon40 is easy to build and fly,predict-
able, highlyacrobatic, and has no "badhabits," making it a
great sport-scale airplane (aslong asyou don'tget carried
away with the glue bottle and make it a "lead sled")!
Althoughthe model is sufficientlycloseto scale that it can
place well in sport-scale competition, traditional Great
Planesquality and ruggedness is evident throughout, making
this an airplane you'llwantto take along every time you go
tothe flyingfield.
This isnot a beginner's airplane! While the Super
Decathlon 40 is easy tobuildand flies great, we must
discourage youfrom selecting this kit asyour first R/C
airplane. Itis fast, highlymaneuverable, and lacks the self-
recovery characteristics of a good basic trainersuch asthe
Great Planes PTSeries airplanes. On the other hand, if you
havealready learnedthebasics ofR/C flyingandyouareable
tosafely handle an "aileron trainer" airplane such as the
Great Planes Trainer Series or Big Stick Series airplanes,
the Super Decathlon 40 is an excellent choice.
3.You mustuse aproperR/C radio that is in firstclass
condition, the correct sized engine and correct components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.)throughout your buildingprocess.
4.You mustproperly install all R/C and othercompo-
nents sothat the model operates properly on the ground and
inthe air.
5.You musttest the operation of the model before the
firstandeach successive flighttoinsure thatallequipmentis
operating, and you mustmake certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
clevisesoften, and replaceifthey show signs ofwear.
6.You mustfly the model only with the competent
help ofa well experienced R/C pilot ifyouare not already an
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this lime.
Note: We, asthekitmanufacturer,canprovideyou with
atop quality kit and great instructions, butultimatelythe
quality and flyability ofyour finished model depends on
how you build it;therefore, we cannot in any way
guaranteetheperformanceofyourcompletedmodel, and
no representations arc expressed or implied asto the
performance orsafety ofyour completedmodel.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to
end up with a well-builtmodel that is straight and
true.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Elev= Elevator
Fuse= Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply= Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE= Trailing Edge (rear)
"= Inches
PRECAUTIONS
1.You mustbuildthe plane according tothe plans
and instructions. Do notalterormodify the model, asdoing
somay result in an unsafe or unflyable-model. In a few cases
the plansand instructions may differslightly from thephotos.
In those instances you should assume the plans and written
instructionsarecorrect
2.Youmusttaketimetobuildstraight, trueandstrong.
INSTRUCTIONS IN BOXES LIKE THIS
ARE VERY IMPORTANT AND SHOULD
BE FOLLOWED CAREFULLY
3

DIE PATTERNS
Usethisdrawingtohelpyouidentify thediecutparts
4

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine sizerange is asfollows:
.40*- .46cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
.48- .70cubic inch displacement 4-cycle
*NOTE:Performance may bemarginal if a non-schneurle-
ported.40cu.in. 2-Cycle engine isused.
NOTE: Ifyou install a 2-Cycle engine,we recommend
using a mufflerthat can becompletely enclosedinside
the cowl. The mufflershown inthe instruction book
photosisaTatone#11434PittsStyleMufflerfor.45-.80
engines.
Theengine you selectwilldetermine how you buildthe
fuselage, soit isimportant that you have the engine closeat
hand while building.
This kit includes a Great Planes MM40 engine mount
that fits most .40- .45(2-Cycle) engines (only slight modifi-
cation ofthis mountis required tomountthe OS40SF and
OS45SF). Ifyouareinstalling an OS48 SURPASS (4-cycle),
you may purchase a Great Planes MM60 mount. If you are
planning to install the OS70 SURPASS (4-cycle), you may
purchase theGreatPlanes MM60L mount. Ifyou prefer, you
maypurchaseacustom enginemountforyourengine,oryou
may choosetoinstall shock-absorbing rubber-cushioned
mounts.
NOTE: If you chooseto poweryourSuperDecathlon 40
with a4-cycleengine, keepinmind that the RPM ofyour
engine willbeconsiderably less than that ofa 2-Cycle
engine; therefore, you should select a higherpitch
propeller to keep the speedand overall performance
roughly equivalent to that ofa 2-Cycle engine. For
example, a 10x6or 10x7prop would beused with a .40
(2-Cycle) engine; buta 12x8,11x9 or 10x10prop may be
thebestchoicesfor a 4-cycle engine.
SELECTION OF WHEELS
Formaximumscalerealism, 2-1/4" diameter main
wheels and a 1"diameter tail wheel maybeused. However,
forbetterhandling,werecommend2-1/2" mainwheels anda
1-1/8"or1-1/4"tail wheel. Foroperation from a roughgrass
field,leave the wheel pants off and use 2-3/4" or 3"main
wheels. Tosave weight, we recommend using lightweight
foam rubber wheels.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Four-channel radio with 4 servos
Propellers(seeengine instructions for recommended size)
Spinner (2-1/4" diameter)
FuelTank(10or12ounce)
3/32"Wheel Collars - 2
Iron-on Covering Material (red & whitefor scale)
1/16"and 1/8"Striping Tape (blue for scale)
Silicone Fuel Tubing
WingSeating Tape (orsilicone sealer...seeinstructions)
Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
Dubro "E-Z Connector" (optional)
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
2oz.Thin CA Adhesive
2oz.Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
2.5oz.5-Minute Epoxy
2.5oz.30-Minute Epoxy
Hand orElectricDrill
Sealing Iron
HeatGun
Drill Bits:1/16",5/64",3/32",7/64",1/8",9/64",5/32".
11/64".3/16",13/64".7/32",and 1/4"
Hobby Saw (Xacto Razor Saw)
Xacto Knife. #11Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
Straightedge
Masking Tape
Sandpaper (coarse,medium,finegrit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block (orsimilar)
Waxed Paper
LightweightBalsaFiller
1/4-20Tap, Tap Wrench
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
Isopropyi RubbingAlcohol (70%)
Dremel Moto Toolor similar (optional)
*NOTE:Onour workbench, we have four11"T-Bar
sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100and #150-grit
sandpaper. Thissetup isallthatis required for almost
any sanding task. We alsokeep some #320-grit wet-or-
dry sandpaperhandy for finish sanding before covering.
5

TYPESOF WOOD
GET READY TO BUILD
BALSABASSWOODPLYWOOD
HARDWAREDRAWINGS,
NOTICE:
The screws supplied in this kit may be"slotted-
head" or "phillips-head" screws. The screw types may
differfrom thoseshownon theplansandinstructions, but
they are interchangeable.
1.Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to
make them lieflat.
2.Remove allparts from the box. As you do, figure out the
nameofeach part by comparing it withthe plans and the parts
listat the back ofthis book.Using a felttippen, write the part
name orsize on each piece to avoid confusionlater. Use the
die-cut patterns on page 4 toidentifythe die-cut partsand
markthem before punchingout. Saveallscraps. Ifanyofthe
die-cut partsare difficultto punchout,do not force them!
Instead, first cutaround the partswithan Xacto knife.After
punchingout the die-cut parts, use yourT-Bar or sanding
block tolightlysand the edges to remove any die-cutting ir-
regularities.
3.As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin and stab(stabi-
lizer), and hardware.
"TAIL FEATHERS"
BUILD THE RUDDER
Tobuildthe rudder you'llneed the following:
1/4"x 3/4"x 36"balsa sticks
1/4"x 1/2"x 30"balsa sticks
1/4"shaped balsa rudder bottom
D1.Tapethe fuselage plan down to your flatwork
surface. Tapea piece ofwaxed paper over the finand rudder
portion of the plan.
D2.Using a razor saw, cutpieces of 1/4"x 3/4" and 1/4"
x1/2"balsa(from the36"and 30" sticks) tomake the rudder
framework. Workingright on the plan,gluetogether these
piecesand the rudder bottom, using thinCA glue.
6

D3.From the 1/4"x 1/2"x 30"sticks, cut "braces"tofit
between the rudder framework, and glue them in place.
NOTE: Itis not necessary to get these braces in the exact
position shown onthe plan.
D4. Examine the rudder framework and add thick CA
gluetoanyopen joints, thenuse yourT-bar with mediumgrit
sandpapertosandboth sidesofthe rudder framework smooth.
hole is drilled slightly oversize toallow for positioning, and
to create a hard epoxy "sleeve"around the wire). Then
groove the rudder leading edge to accept the tailgear wire .
(Seethe photo at step 5 on page 15).HINT: Using an Xacto
knife,sharpen the inside of one end of a 1/8"diameter brass
tube, and use it to cutthe groove in the leading edge ofthe
rudder.
D5.Carefullydraw a centerline all around the edgesof
the rudder (this willhelp to maintainsymmetrywhen sand-
ing).
BUILD THE FIN
D6.Using a sanding block and coarse(50or80-grit)
sandpaper, sandboth sides of the rudder toa taperasshown
on the plans. The trailingedge should end upapproximately
3/32"wide and have a rounded shape. (Donotsand to a sharp
edge).Sand the top edge to a rounded shape. Sand the
leading edgetoa "V-shape"asshown on the plan.
D7.Check the plans and mark the location of the
tailgearontherudder. Drilla 7/64"hole in the rudder (the
D1.In the same mannerasthe rudder, buildthe fin using
the 1/4"x 3/4"and 1/4"x 1/2"balsa sticks.Also, cut1"from
the 1/4"x 3/4"x 36"balsastick,and from this small piece cut
the triangular gusset for the front comer ofthe fin.
D2.Carefullydraw a centerline onthe leading and
trailingedges of the fin.
D3.Sand the leading edge (only)to a round shape.
NOTE:The trailingedge, bottom edge and top edge
mustnot be rounded or V-shaped, instead, justsand
theseedgesflatand square.
7

BUILDTHESTABILIZER
You'llneedthe followingparts:
1/4"x1"x17-7/8"balsasuck
1/4"x 3/4"x 36"balsa sticks
1/4"x 1/2"x 30"balsa sticks
1/4"shaped balsa stab tie
1/4"shaped balsastab center
D2.Sandthe elevatortipstothe shapeasshownonthe
plan.
D3.Carefully draw a centerline allaround the edgesof
the elevators.
D1.Tape waxed paper over the separatestabilizer draw-
ing on the fuse plan. In the same manner asthe rudder, cut
balsapiecesand build the stab framework.
D2.Sand a flat spot on the leading edgeat the center, as
shown onthe plan.
D3.Carefully draw a centerline onthe leading and
trailing edgesofthe stab.
D4. Sand the leading edge(only) to a round shape.
NOTE: Thetrailingedgeandends mustnotberoundedorV-
shaped.Instead, justsand these edges flat and square.
BUILD THE ELEVATORS
You'll need the following parts:
1/4"x 3/4"balsa stick
1/4"x 1/2"balsa sticks
1/4"shaped balsa elevators
1/8"bent wireelevator joiner
D4. Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape,the trailing
edge to a round shape, and the outside edgeofthe tiptoa
round shape.
D5.Temporarily tapetheelevators to the stab, providing
1/16"clearancebetween the elevator tip and the stab end.
D6.Lay the 1/8"wireelevatorjoiner inplace ontheele-
vators and mark itsoutline using a fine point felt-tip pen.
D 7.Accurately drill holes in the elevators for the 1/8"
wirejoiner. Begin bydrilling a 1/16"or5/64"pilot hole, then
drill the finalhole to a depth of 7/8"witha 9/64"drill bit.
(The hole isdrilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning,
and tocreate a hard epoxy "sleeve"around the wire).
D8.Use the sharpened 1/8"diameter brass tube tocut
grooves in the leading edge of the elevators to accept the
joiner wire.
D1.Position the shaped balsa elevators on the plan, then,
from the 1/4"x 1/2"sticks, cutpieces to make the elevator
tips.Glue thesepiecestothe ends ofthe elevators.
D9.Roughen thejoinerwire withcoarsesandpaper, then
clean the wirethoroughlywithalcohol toremove anyoily
residue.
8

D10.Trial fit thejoiner wire into the elevators, then glue
it in using 5-minuteor 30-minute epoxy. When gluing,lay
the elevators on a flat surface, with the leading edgesalong a
straightedge to insure perfect alignment
B.Make three or four more cuts in the same line,
going slightlydeeper each time.As youmake these
additional cuts, work on going straightinto the wood.
Continue this process while"wiggling" the knife
handle back and forth untilthe blade has reached the
properdepth for the hinge.
C.Trial fitthe hinge into the slot. If the hingeis
difficulttopush in,re-inserttheknifeand move itback
and forthintheslota few timestoenlarge the slot
D3. IMPORTANT! Condition or"break-in" the
hingesby foldingthem back and forth several times.
D4.Insert the hinges into the slotsand trial fitthe rudder
and elevators in place on the finand stab. Do not glue the
hinges untilafter you have covered the model.
INSTALL THE HINGES (Donotglue)
NOTE:One-piecemolded polypropylene hingesare
suppliedinthis kit. Ifyou chooseto use thesehinges or
the''pinned' '-type hinges, you maycut the hinge slots at
this time. However, if you chooseto use the one-piece
hinges that are paper covered for CA glue installation,
youmay waituntil aftercoveringbeforecutting thehinge
slots,because this will beeasier than trying to find the
slotlocations under the covering.
D1.Lay the rudder and elevators onthe plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the finTE and
transfer the marks over to the fin.Placethe elevators against
the stabTEand transfer the marks over tothe stab.
CAUTION!!!: You must useextreme care when
cutting hinge slotswith anXacto knife, toavoid
cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks while you
are pushing onthe knife, the blade couldgointo your
hand before you know it! A goodprecaution is to
wear leather gloves while performing the following
steps, and always cut awav from yourself.
D2.Cut the hingeslotsonthe accurate centerlines
which you previously drew, usingan Xacto knifeor a
slotting fork and slotting hook. (Therecommended hinge
slotting technique is listed below).
A.Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slitat
thehinge location. This firstcut istoestablish yourcut
in the rightplace, soconcentrate on staying onthe
centerline and don't cut toodeep!
WING ASSEMBLY
BUILD THE WING PANELS
NOTE: Thefollowing instructions explain how to build
the wing directly on the plans. An alternate method isto
use a Great Planes WingJig (available from your local
hobby dealer). Many expert modelers prefer to use a
wing jig for high performance airplanes, asit helps to
insure a straight, warp-free wing, especiallyifyou do not
have a workbench orbuilding board that isperfectly flat.
If you chooseto use the Wing Jig, please read the
instructions that areincluded with the jig before
beginning.
NOTE: It willbehelpful to build the wing on a pieceof
"Celotex" or other semi-soft (and flat)surface, into
which you mayeasily stick pins to firmlyholddown the
wing pans while building, toavoid warps.
D1.Tapethe plan to your flat work surface,and cover
the wing drawing withwaxed paper (soyou won'tglue the
wingtotheplan!). NOTE; Ifyourwork space islimited,you
may cut the left and right winghalfdrawings apart
D2.The shaped and notched wingleading edges (LE)
and trailingedges (TE) are fastened togetherby thinstrips of
balsa. Separate them by folding untilthebalsa breaks. Sand
away the excess balsa that remainsalong the edges after
breaking them apart, using a T-bar with100-gritsandpaper.
9

D3.Before using the 3/8"x 3/8"x 32"hard balsaspars,
examine them carefully for possible imperfections. Look for
knots, soft spots,diagonal grain and any other imperfections.
Ifpossible, position each spar sotheimperfections areon the
outer halfof the wingpanel (toward the tip), where they will
beleastaffected by highstress. If the spars are warped
slightly, try to "balance them out"by installing the warped
sparsin opposite directions (seesketch).
TWO WARPEDSPARSINSTALLED
THIS WAYWILLRESULTINA
STRAIGHTWING
TWO WARPEDSPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAYWILLRESULTINA
WARPEDWING
D4. Carefully punch out all the die-cut 3/32"balsa wing
ribs. Sand the edgesslightlyto remove any die-cutting ir-
regularities.
DD 7.Place one ofthe 3/8"x 3/8"balsa mainspars on
the wingplan and pin the spar down withcrossedT-pins as
shown in the followingsketch.NOTE: The sparsarecut
slightly toolong, and the excess willbe cutoff later.
D5.Draw an accuratecenterlinealong the rear edge of
the notched balsa trailingedges. DD 8.Place one oftheW-2 ribs and nineofthe W-3
ribs on the spar in their approximate positions, butdo not
glue.
NOTE: Follow steps 6 through 21 to build the RIGHT
wing panel, then repeat these stepsto buildtheLEFT
wing panel.
DD 6.Pinone ofthe notched balsatrailing edgestothe
1/8"x 3/4"x 32"balsaTEJigstickasshown in the following
sketch. Note that the top of the Jig stick must be on the
centerline whichyou have drawn on the trailing edge.
DD 9.Holdthe notched balsa trailing edgein place
(with TEJig attached) and carefullywork the ribs intothe
notches, centering each rib upand down. Pin or tack glue the
TEJigstick to yourbuilding surface, making sure the ribs
line upwith the plan.
DD 10.Glue the W-2 and W-3 ribs to the TE.(Apply
glue sparingly, toavoid gluingthe TEto the TEJig).
10

DD 11.Insert the frontends of the ribs into the notches
in the LE. NOTE:Positionthe LE as shown in the following
sketch. CENTER L.E.
VERTICALLY ON
FRONT OF RIBS
DD 15.Lightlysand the tops ofthe ribs to blend with
the notched trailing edge; then glueone of the 3/32"x 1-1/4"
x32"balsa trailingedge sheets in place. NOTE':The edge
ofthe TE sheet maynotbe exactlystraight, butjustposition
the sheet soitslightlyoverlaps the TE, and anyoverlap can
besanded off later.
D D 16. Before applying the leading edge shecting in
the nextstep,use your T-bar to lightlysand offthe edges of
the shearwebs and smoothly blend the ribs tothe spar.
DD 17.Prepare the 3/32"x 2-5/8"x 30"balsa leading
edgesheeting by sanding the frontedge toa slightbevel soit
willfitsnuglyagainstthebackoftheleadingedge.(Checkby
trial fitting)
DD 12.Make sure the ribs are fullydown on the plan
andall ribsareinserted intotheLEnotches. Glue theW-2and
W-3 ribs tothe LE and bottom spar.
DD 13.Insert the top sparinto the notches in the ribs.
From the excess 1/4"x 3/4"balsa (used in the fin& stab con-
struction), cut two pieces, 2-1/2"long. Insert one of these
1/4"x 3/4"x 2-1/2" balsaspar fillersbetween the top and
bottom sparsin the areabetween W-l and W-2 (tohold the
sparsapartatthe proper spacing), then glue the top spartothe
ribs.Glue the sparfiller tothe spars.
DD 14.Glue five ofthe pre-cut 3/32"balsa vertical
grain shear webs to the rear edge of the spars in the locations
shownontheplan. NOTE: The webs mustbesecurely glued
tothespars,butitisnotnecessary togluethewebstotheribs.
NOTE: In the next steps, maintain straightness by
keepingthewingdown onthe Hat surface and on the
TE Jig.
NOTE: It willbehelpfulto have the following items
handyforthenextstep...thinCA, thick CA, awetcloth,
masking tape and T-pins. Read through the following
stepand gothrough a "dry run"before actually gluing.
DD 18.Positionthe leading edge sheeting at the rear
edge of the notched LE soitis justoverlappingribW-2.
Using thinCA, glue the front(beveled) edge of the leading
edge sheeting to the back edge of the LE. Now wet thetop
surface of the sheeting soit willbend easier. ApplythickCA
glue tothe top edgeoftheribs andto the fronthalfofthespar,
then immediatelybend the sheeting down onto the ribsand
spar. Hold the sheeting down withmaskingtape, pinsand
your hands until the glue has set.
11

wing plan, and block up the trailing edge 1/2",using the 1/2"
x1/2"x 2"balsa blocks. Position the die-cut1/8"ply
dihedralgauge(DG)onthewingcenterline,asshowninthe
photo, and mark cut-off lines on the spars, trailingedge and
TEsheeting. Carefully cutorsand off the spars and trailing
edge at these marks.
D3.Accurately position the left wingpanel on the left
wing plan. Mark and cut off the sparsand TEasin step2.
DD 19.From the 3/32"x 1/4"x 30"balsasticks, cutand
glue cap strips to the top ofthe seven outside ribs. HINT:
Foreasierpositioning of the cap strips, first mark the location
ofeach rib on the LE and TEsheeting. When finished,
remove the wing from the building boardand turn it over
again.
DD 20.With thewing upsidedown, againusetheTE
jigtosupporttheTE.Theninstall thebottom TEsheeting,LE
sheeting andcap strips. IMPORTANT: To insure a
straight wing, you must pin the TE securely tothe TE jig
and pin the jig tothe buildingsurface whilethe bottom
sheeting is glued in place!
DD 21.Trim the sparsand sheeting flushwith the tip
rib. Cut and sand the LE sheeting and LE flushwithrib
W-2. andsandtheentirewingpanelsmooth. Sandtheleading
edgeto smoothly blend withthe LE sheeting (seethe rib
cross-section on the plan for the desired LE shape).
D4. Lay apieceofwaxedpaperdown at the centerofthe
wing,place the two wingpanels together at the center, and
block up both wingtips 1/2-inch, and block up the trailing
edge 1/2-inch at the center (use the 1/2"x 1/2"x 2"balsa
blocks provided). If the sparsdo not mate withone another,
sand them slightly untilthey do.
D5.Trialfit the die-cut 1/8"plydihedralbraces on
both sides ofthe spars to make sure they willreadily slide
into place.
NOTE: Read steps6 and7,then make a "dry run'
through thesestepsbefore actually proceeding.
NOTE: 30-minute epoxy isstrongly recommended
for the wing joiningprocess.
D22.Now go back and repeatsteps6 through 21, tobuild
the other wingpanel. NOTE: The two wingpanels are
identical, soyoumaybuildon the same plan.
JOIN THE WING PANELS
D1.Designate one wingpanel "RIGHT" and the other
"LEFT".
D2.Accurately position the rightwingpanel on theright
D6.Mix upa batch of 30-minute epoxy and smear it on
the dihedralbraces, spars, spar ends, and the matingsurfaces
of thetrailing edge. Slide the dihedralbraces in place, push
the wingpanels together and immediately proceed tothe
next step.
D7.With the wingtips blocked up 1/2-inch, carefully
align the sparsand TEof both wingpanels. Clamp the
dihedralbracesto thesparsandapplya fewpiecesofmasking
tape tohold the trailing edges in correct alignment.Wipe up
the excess epoxy witha tissue. Allow the epoxy to fully
harden before disturbingthe wing.
12

INSTALL CENTER RIBS AND SHEETING
D1.Usea sanding block to sand offany excess epoxy on
the top and bottom of the spars in the center of the wing.
FILE END TO
WEDGE SHAPE
D2.Roughen the surface ofthe plasticbearing tubes
with 100-gritsandpaper.
D3.Cleanthe torque rods and bearing tubes withalco-
hol.
D2.Remove the die-cut aileron servo"punch-outs"
from the two W-lwingribs, then glue the W-lribs together,
and trim and sand them to fitbetween theTEand thedihedral
brace. Glue the ribs in place withtheopening for the aileron
servofacing down.
D4.Find the two grooved, tapered balsa center trailing
edgepieces. Lay them on theplan andcheck them forlength.
Mark and cut them off to match the plan, if necessary.
D3.Using the 3/32"x 3"x 8-7/8"balsasheets, glue the
center section sheeting in place on the top and bottom, as
shown on the plan. Sheetall the way to the frontofthe front
dihedralbrace.
D5.Trial fitthe torque rods intothe center TEpieces.
Determine from the plan where to cutthe clearance notches,
whichwillpermit the torque rod horns to travel freely. Also
cutsmall clearance notches in thewingTE. Note: The
torquerodhorn(threadedend)mustexittheBOTTOMof
thewing!
INSTALL AILERON TORQUE RODS
D6.Slidethe plastic bearings toward the threaded end of
the torque rods, then use a toothpick to apply a small amount
of petroleum jellytothe ends of the plastic tubes (to help
prevent glue from getting inside and locking upthe torque
rods).
D1.Roughen the short end ofthe aileron torque rods
with 100-gritsandpaper, and filethe same end toa wedge
shape.
D7.Use 5-minute epoxy or CA to glue the plastic bear-
ing tubes into the grooves in thecenter TE pieces. Wipe off
any excess glue and allow it toharden.
13

D8.Trial fitthe trailing edge/torque rodassembly onto
the wingtrailingedge. Sand the center trailing edge pieces
slightly where they join,for a goodfit.The top and bottom
surfaces of these pieces should blend smoothly with the top
andbottomofthe wing. Glue thesepieces in placewithepoxy
(threaded ends pointingDOWN). SUGGESTION: Ifyou
areusing 5-minuteepoxy, glue only one pieceat a time. and
use masking tapeto hold it tothe wing TE,toaidin correct
positioning.
use a scissorsora paperpunch to cutholesinthe glasscloth
for the aileron torque rod horns.
D3.Wrap small pieces ofmasking tapearound the
exposed portions ofthe aileron torque rods to protect them
from the spray adhesive in the nextstep.
D4.Spraya verylightmistof3M"77"Spray Adhesive
onthecentersection intheareatobeglassed. Holdthespray
can at least 12"away from thesurface whendoing this to
avoida heavy buildup.The purposeofthisisonly to give the
wood a little "tackiness". If youapply too muchspray it
could result in a poorglue bond.
D5.Lay the glass cloth in place on the top and bottom of
the wing. Gently press thecloth in place, workingoutall the
wrinkles. The "77"spray adhesive should hold the cloth
down to the surface,butwillpermityou to liftand reposition
the cloth if you make a mistake. Don'tattempt to wrap the
cloth around the trailing edge.
FIBERGLASS THE CENTER SECTION
NOTE: Because ofthe high stresses in the center of
this wing,fiberglass reinforcement is REQUIRED.
Pleasedo not omit thisimportant section!
NOTE: If you have previous experience applying
fiberglass, feel free to use your favorite method,
providing that it results in a strong bond between the
glass cloth and the wood. If this isyour firsttime, we
offerthe following suggested method, which isthe
fastest and easiestwe have seen.
D6.Working outdoors or in a very well-ventilatedarea
apply thin CA glue tothe glass cloth. Begin by runninga
bead of glue down the center of the glass cloth strip, then
continueapplyingtheglueinlinesuntilalltheclothhasbeen
secured. Runthe thinCA out1/4"beyond the edges of the
glass cloth to helpprotect the balsa sheeting when sanding
later. WARNING: This operation producesa larger than
normal quantity ofCA fumes, soadequate ventilation isa
must!
D7.Inspectthe surfaceofthe glass cloth. Ifanyareas are
not glued down, apply a couple more drops of CA glueand
press down witha piece ofwaxed paper untilthe glue sets.
D1.Make location marksfor the fiberglass reinforce-
ment cloth, 1-1/2"eachway from the wingcenterline.
NOTE: The cloth willbe applied tothe top and bottom
surfaces only. Donot apply cloth tothe front surface ofthe
frontdihedral brace.
D8.Tomake sure the glass cloth is fully"wetted out"
and bonded to the balsa, youmay apply more thinCA, a few
dropsata time,and spread itout witha piece ofwaxed paper.
D2.Cut the length of 3"glass cloth inhalf,makingtwo
equallengths. Trialfitthefiberglasscloth inplace.Youcan
D9.Afterthe glue has set, trim the excess cloth at the
front ofthe frontdihedral brace and at the trailingedge with
asharp Xacto knifefollowed by a sanding block.
D10.Carefully sand the edges of the glass cloth witha
T-bar sander with80or 100-grit sandpaper, smoothly blend-
ingtheedgestothewing.Also,lightlysandthesurfaceofthe
glasscloth withapieceoffinesandpaperheld inyourfingers
to remove anyroughspots.WARNING: When sanding
fiberglass, wear a dust mask toavoid breathing airborne
glasslibers.
D11.You may now clean up any3M "77"Overspray with
atissue dampened with lighter fluid orK&B thinner.
14

INSTALL WING TIPS
NOTE: Thewing tips willbecutandcarvedfrom the
1/4"x 1-3/4"x 11"balsa blocks.
D 1. Draw a centerlineontheendsofthe wing andon the
wing tip blocks.
D2.Securely glue the wingtip blocks tothe ends of the
wing, lining up the centerlines you previously drew.
D3.Cut, carve and sand the wingtips to blend with the
wing, and tothe shape as shown on the plan. NOTE: Leave
the tipsoversize in the areaof the ailerons, for now.
D3.Hold the ailerons in place in the openings, withthe
torque rods resting on top of the ailerons.Mark the torque
rodlocations on the top oftheailerons.
D4.Drill a 7/64" hole in the ailerons at the torque rod
locations, starring at the leading edge centerlineanddrilling
straightin tothe properdepth.
D5.Usethe sharpened 1/8"diameter brass tubeto cuta
groove in the leadingedge ofthe ailerons toacceptthetorque
rods. Trial fitthe ailerons onto the torque rods and cutas
necessary untilthey fit.
D6.Lay the ailerons on the plan andmark the hinge
locations on the ailerons. Place the aileronsagainstthe wing
TEand transferthe marks over to the wing.
D7.Cut the hinge slots in the ailerons and wingTEusing
anXacto knife.(The suggested procedure was givenon page
9).
INSTALL AILERONS
NOTE: Donot glue the aileronhingesuntilafteryour
modelhasbeencovered.
D1.Draw an accurate centerline along the LEofthe
tapered balsaailerons and the wingTE.
D2.Check the length ofyour ailerons against the actual
aileron openings and trimthe ailerons as necessary. You
should provide approximately 1/16"gap at each end of the
ailerons.
15
D8.IMPORTANT! Condition or"break-in" the
hinges by foldingthem back and forth several rimes.
D9.Using a T-bar with50or 80-grit sandpaper, sand the
leading edge ofthe ailerons to the same "V-shape asshown
onthe wing cross-section drawing on the plan.
D10.Insert the hinges into the slotsand trial fitthe
ailerons in place on the wing.Do not glue the hinges until
after you have covered the wing.

There should benohinge gap!
Therefore, if you areusing "pinned" hinges, you must
cutaway balsa to make room for the center portion ofthe
hinge.
NOTE: Nowisagoodtimetofinishthe wingtips.Tape
the ailerons onin the neutral position, and sand the wing
tipsto blend with the ailerons.
INSTALL WING BOLT PLATE
D1.Markacenterlineonthe 1/16"x 3-1/2"x 1-1/2"ply
wingbolt plate.
D2.Use a sanding block to"feather'' three edges ofthe
wingbolt plate, leaving the TE square. Doing sowillmake
it easierto cover, and will blend more smoothly withthe
wing.
TEMPORARILY INSTALL WING DOWELS
(Donot glue)
D1.Usea sanding block to custom fitthe die-cut 1/8"ply
wing dowel plate to the frontof the dihedral brace, sanding
asnecessary to blend withthe top and bottom ofthe wing.
D2.Securely tape the dowel plate in place (it mustnot
move while drilling), then drill 1/4"holes through the dihe-
dral braces, usingthe dowel plate holes as a drill guide. The
drill mustextend at least 7/8"into the wing to penetrate the
frontand rear dihedral braces.
D3.Sand oneend ofeach wingdowel to a rounded or
pointed shape. This is the end that will beinserted.Do not
sand the other end at this time.
D3.Position the wingbolt plate on the top of the wing,
and accurately line it up with the wing TEand centerline.
Glue it in place.
D4.Sand the wingbolt plate flushwith the wingTE.
INSTALL WING STRUT PLATES
D4. Trialfit the dowels into the dowel holes, and trial fit
the dowel plate over the dowels. Ifthe dowels fittootightly,
you may enlarge the holes slightlyusing a round file, or you
may sand the dowels down slightly.Donotglue thedowels
ordowel plate in place at this time.
D1.Glue the die-cut 1/8"plywing strut plates in place
on the BOTTOM of the wingin the locations shown on the
plan. The frontplates areglued to the sparand therib,andare
flushwiththespar. Therearplatesareglued totherib,TEand
TEsheeting.
D2.Glue scraps of3/32"balsa to the frontplates, and
16

sand them toblend withthe surfaceofthe wing. Pokeseveral
holes with a pin near the center of the plate, apply thin CA,
then sand smooth. This willharden the balsaand prevent
crushingwhen the strut straps are installed later.
sides "RIGHT"and "LEFT".From the front edgeofboth
sides, accurately measure back 13/32"and draw a line
parallel withthe frontedge.
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
PREPARE FUSE SIDES
D6.Glue the two die-cut 1/8"ply fuse doublerstothe
fuse sides, makinga rightand a left side. The frontedge of
both doublers bull against the 13/32"line.
D1.Workingon a flatsurfacecoveredwithwaxedpaper,
trial fitthedie-cut 1/8"balsa upper fuse side and aftfuse side
together at the "zig-zag" joint,sanding asnecessary for a
goodfit.Whileassembling, lay a straightedge along the top
edge of these parts, to make sure they areproperlylinedup.
Glue these parts together.
D2.Glue the die-cut 1/8"balsalowerfusesidetothe
upper fuse sideand aftfuse side.
D3.Inspectthe gluejoints for gaps,add thick CA glue if
necessary.Sand the gluejoints smooth on both sides using a
T-bar and 100-grit sandpaper, then repeat the above stepsto
make theotherfuse side.
D4. Place the two assembled fuse sidestogether. Sand
the edgesasnecessarytomake the two sidesidentical.
D5.As shown in the following sketch, designate the fuse 17
D7.Find the 1/8"x 5/32"x4" Hardwood Spacer and glue
it to the LEFT fuse side and the fuse doubler. REFER TO
THE ABOVE SKETCH TO AVOIDCONFUSION.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When assembling the
fuselage you mustinstall the die-cut FUSE TOP and
FUSE BOTTOM correctly. When these parts are
correctly installed, thefrontedges of thefuse top
and fuse bottom willmatch upwiththe frontedge
ofthefuse side doubler (rightside) and withthe
frontedgeofthe hardwood spacer (left side).
ASSEMBLE LOWER FUSELAGE
NOTE: Thelower fuselage willbeassembled upside
down on the plan.

D1.Trialfit(donot glue) the following parts together,
upside down on a flatsurface: Die-cut 1/8"ply fuse top, fuse
sides,die-cut 1/8"plyF-2,F-3,and the fuse bottom. Check
the fitofall parts and trim, file or sand asnecessary for a good
fit.NOTE: The frontportion ofthe fuse is"self-aligning,"
butit isimportant thatthe top edges of the fuse sides rest on
aflat surface.
D2.Onceyou have everything fitting properly, re-as-
semble the above parts, usingclamps, pins, tape and weights
tohold everything together and flat onthe workbench. Make
sure F-3ispositioned perpendicular tothe work surface.
There should bewaxed paper underneath toprevent gluing
the fusetotheplan. Apply thinCA glue tothejoints. Remove
the assembly from the workbench and inspect the glue joints,
following withthick CA glue in any joints that are not tight
fitting.
D3.Tapethe fuselage plan to yourworkbench and cover
the Fuse Top View withwaxed paper.
D4.From the 1/4"x 1/2"x 14-7/8"balsa stick, cutthe
four cross-braces tothe exact size shown on the plan. Pin
thesecross-braces securely to the building surface, aligning
them accurately.
the cross-braces(the formers areupside down), and sand the
edges of the formers slightlyto match theangle ofthe fuse
sides. Glue the formers to thecross-braces, makingsurethat
each former isinstalled perpendicular to the building
surface. Use a carpenter's square ordraftsman'striangle to
insure correct installation of F-4.
D6.Now carefullyalignthe fuse assembly on the plan.
Line upthe aftedge ofthe fuse top withthe frontedge of the
dash. Hold the frontportion of the fuse securely by placing
booksor other suitable weights on the fuse. NOTE: The
front ofthe fuse sides willnot match the plan, because the
fuseisupside down.
D7.Pull the aftends of the fuse sides together and glue
the fuse sides to F-4, F-5, F-6and F-7.Donotglue the aft ends
of the fuse sides together yet.
D8.Study the plans and note that you willattach the
engine mountdirectly tothe 1/4"plyfirewall(F-l) if a
4-cycle engine isto beused. Before installingF-l,you may
drill F-1for yourengine mountand installthe 6-32 blindnuts.
Ifyou will be usingthe engine mountsupplied in the kit,you
may cutout theF-1 drawing from the plans, tape it to F-1 and
use it asa guide for drillingthe four5/32"holes. If you will
beusing a differentmount,note thatthe mountshould not be
positioned on the vertical and horizontal centerlinesof F-l,
butshould beoffset approximately5/32"toward the leftside
oftheairplane. Drill theholes and installtheblindnutson the
back ofF-l, pressing them in witha pliers or a vise.
NOTE: 2-Cycle engine installation willbecovered
later in the buildingsequence.
D5.Trialfitformers F-4,F-5, F-6 and F-7tothe front of
D9.TrialfitF-1tothe fuselage and sand asnecessaryto
18

fitbetween the fuse sides. Use 30-minute or5-minute epoxy
to securely glueF-l to the fuse sides, holding with clamps or
tape untilthe glue has firmlyset. NOTE: Before the glue
sets,double check to make sure F-l isproperly aligned with
the top edge of the fuselage, and fullyback against the fuse
doublers. After the gluehas fullyhardened, sand offthe front
ofthe fuse sides flushwiththe frontofF-l.
D10.Glue the die-cut 1/8"ply F-1B,F.2B,F-2C, F-3B,
and the 1/4"plymainlandinggear mountingplate tothe
fuse bottom. NOTE: F-1B should line upwiththe frontof
F-l, and you should use epoxy for theL.G.plate.
D11.Glue the die-cut 1/8"balsacenter stringerbetween
F-1Band F-2B, along the centerline ofthe fuselage.
outside edge ofthebottom ofthe fusesides. Add small pieces
of scrap balsain the front corners (atF-2C)asshown in the
photo.
D14.Using a sanding block, sand the 3/4"triangles on a
Straight linefrom F-2C toF-3B.
D12.Find the 3/32"x 3"x 9" balsa sheet and cutit in half
tomake two 4-1/2" lengths. Glue one edge of one of these
sheetsto the bottom edge of the fuse side, beginningat the
rearedge ofF-2B and extending past F-1B. Wet the sheeting
thoroughly withwarm wateroralcohol in the area tobebent,
then bend the sheeting over the formers and glueit down.
Trim the sheeting at the centerline of the center stringer.
Repeat thisprocess for the other side. Trim and sand the
sheeting flushwiththe frontofF-1B and the rearof F-2B.
D13.From the 3/4"x 9-3/4" balsa triangle stock, cuttwo
piecestofitbetween F-2C and F-3B, and glue them alongthe
D15.Cut one ofthe 1/2"x 36"balsa triangles in halfto
make two 18"lengths. Glue these triangles along the outside
edge of the bottom of the fuse sides between F-3B and F-7.
D16.Find the two die-cut 1/8"balsa stringers thatfit
between F-3B andF-4,and gluethemtothe insideedgeofthe
1/2"balsa triangles, justbehind F-3B.
D17.Using a long sanding block with 50or 80-grit sand-
paper, sand the above triangles and stringers totaper on a
straight line from F-3B toF-7 asshown on the fuse plan side
view. In other words, you willsand off almost nothingat
F-3B,and almost all of the triangle at F-7.
19

IMPORTANT NOTE: When performing steps16-18,
itispossiblethat adding the triangles may have pulled the
aft portion ofthe fuse out ofalignment slightly. Check
forthisby positioningthe fuse onthe plan. Ifthisisthe
case.relievethe stresses caused by the triangles by
making razor saw cuts inthe triangles until the fuse
straightens out. Afterdoingso,apply thinCA tothe saw
cuts.
andglue them tothetopofF-1. ThefrontofF-1Tmust line
up withthe frontofF-1.
D2.Glue the die-cut 1/8"ply DASH in place in the
notches in the fuse side doublers.
D3.Glue the 3/16"x 3/16"x 3-1/4" balsa top front
stringer into the notches inF-1T and the DASH. Sand the
frontand rear ends of the stringer flushwiththe formers.
D18.From the 3/32"x 3"x 32"balsa sheet, cutand glue
pieces of cross-grain sheeting tothe bottom of the fuse,
beginningatthe frontofF-2Cand runningto theaftend ofthe
fuse. NOTE: Whileapplyingsheeting to that portion ofthe
fuse aftofF-7,temporarily pin the taperedbalsa tail fillerin
place to maintain the proper separationofthe fuse sidesat the
aft end.
D19.Sand the edges ofthe bottom sheeting at a45-degree
angle to blend with the triangle stock, asshown on the former
cross-sections on the plan. (This results in a shape that is
reasonably close to the full-sizeSuper Decathlon fuselage).
D4. Cut the 1/16"x 3"x 8"balsasheetin halfto make two
pieces 4" long. Using the same techniqueyou used to apply
the bottom frontsheeting, gluethe 1/16"top front sheeting
toF-1Tand the DASH. Sand the sheeting flushwiththe
formers. Sand the fuse sides to a rounded shape to blend with
the sheeting (Seethe cross-section drawing of F-l on the
plan).
ASSEMBLE UPPER FUSELAGE
NOTE: You may now fuelproofthe inside ofthe fuel
tank compartment and the front ofF-l by brushing on a
coat ofpolyester resin or 30-minute epoxy thinned with
alcohol.You may wait until it istime to installthe fuel
tank, but itiseasier to dosoat thistime.
D1.Gluethetwodie-cut1/8"plyF-1Tformerstogether,
D5.Glue F-2T to thefrontof F-2.
Glue F-4T to the frontof F-4.
Glue F-5T to thefrontof F-5.
Glue F-6T tothe frontofF-6.
D6.Draw a line on F-7T, 1/4"upfrom thebottom edge.
Then glue F-7T to the frontofF-7,aligningthe linewiththe
top edge ofF-7.Install this former accurately!
D7.Find the die-cut 1/8"ply wing saddle doublers.
Carefully position them on the cabin sides, aligning the top
20