Hallberg-Rassy 2011 User manual

Instruction Book
All models 2011 / 2012

2
This manual belongs to the following boat:
Yard identification Hallberg-Rassy……….
Description GRP Keel sailing yacht
Category A- Unlimited ocean voyages
Test Mode Module B + F
CIN No.
Recommended maximum load: ………….………..kg (incl. ………...persons)
We at Hallberg-Rassy always strive to improve our products. For this reason changes are always
possible and are carried out if considered appropriate. All details are given in good faith and are believed
to be correct but are not guaranteed.
Copyright©Hallberg-Rassy Varvs AB 1996-2011
Revision date: October 26, 2011

3
INDEX
PAGE PAGE
Introduction 6
Description of the boat
Emergency exits 5 Water Heater 24
Man overboard recovery 5 Refrigeration 25
Engine 7 Heating 25
Propeller Shaft Seals 8 Toilet 26
Sailing propeller 9-10 Holding Tank 26
Water and Diesel 11 Manual Bilge pump 27
Diesel Quality 11 El. Bilge and Drain Pump 27
Water and Diesel Tanks HR 37 - HR 64 10-11 Anchor Windlass 28
Diesel consumption and Range 12 Bow Thruster 28
Mast and Rig 15-16 Liquefied Petroleum Gas System 29
Back stay Tensioner 15 Going to sea 29
Cutter stay 16 Compass 30
Sails 17 Winches 30
Batteries and Charging 18-20 Sprayhood 30
Electric system 12 and 24 v 20-22 Steering 31-33
230 V via Shore connection or Generator 23 Autopilot 34
230 V via Inverter 23 Electronic Instruments 34
Safety with 230 V on Board 23 Pressure Water and Fenders 34
Maintenance
Maintenance of the gelcoat surfaces 34 Electrolysis 37
Teak Deck 35 Lifting and Supporting Ashore 38-39
Oiled teak deck 36 Adjustment of locker hinges 40
Varnished teak 36 Risk of Freezing 37
Antifouling paint 36 Skin fittings 46-56
Carpets 37 Lay Up or Longer stops 57
Cleaning of tanks, pipes and pumps 37 Short list for winter preparations 58
Further data
Important measurements 59 Important addresses 60
Appendix Engine ………………. …………………
Mast and rig ………………. …………………
Heating ………………. …………………
Refrigeration ………………. …………………
Sails ………………. …………………

4
Compulsory directions according to the EU regulations
This manual has been compiled to help you to operate your craft with safety and pleasure. It contains
details of the craft, the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems and information on its operating and
maintenance. Please read it carefully, and familiarise yourself with the craft before using it.
If this is your first craft, or if you are changing to a type of craft you are not familiar with, for your own
comfort and safety, please ensure that you obtain handling and operating experience before taking
command of the craft.
Your dealer or national sailing federation or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sea schools,
or competent instructors.
Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if you sell the craft.
Danger and protection of the environment
In this instruction book you will find three different signs:
This sign is used where there can be danger for your life.
This sign is used where predictable danger can occur.
This sign is used where you should be extra careful.
Danger!
Warning !
Note !

5
Fire, flooding and overload
Fire on board is one of the most dangerous situations that can arise on a yacht. Take every
measurement to minimise the risk.
Inform your crew before every departure where to find and how to operate the fire extinguishers and the
eventual permanent installed fire equipment for the engine room.
Keep exits from the accommodation free!
Risk of Flooding exists if the two valves for the toilet are not kept closed.
Inform everyone on board how to operate the toilets with safety.
Generally speaking: flush valve on DRY and overboard valve CLOSED.
All other sea valves are normally kept open and are only closed when a leak or other conditions call for
it.
Overload.
The recommended maximum number of persons on board is one person/meter hull length. Local or
national regulations may stipulate other and specify life saving equipment.
The folding bathing platforms on the Hallberg-Rassy 54 and 64 are designed to carry a maximum load
of 200 respectively 250 kg.
Emergency exits
Each boat has emergency exits labelled “Exit”
Man overboard recovery
Do anything you can to avoid that somebody is falling overboard! If that still should happen, each
Hallberg-Rassy boat has a bathing ladder to get onboard again. HR 54 and HR 64 have folding
platforms, which may be operated with an emergency button on the transom, reachable from the water
level.

6
Introduction
The delivery day is a great day, and we wish you good luck with your new Hallberg-Rassy.
The delivery day is, however, a busy day when many things are happening. Things are easily missed and
sometimes you forget what has been explained.
All sailing demands good seamanship. To describe what this means is outside the framework of
this booklet. We assume you have the knowledge to handle your boat in a way that will not
expose yourself or your crew to unnecessary risks.
If you’re changing to a type of craft you are not familiar with, please ensure that you
obtain handling and operating experience before ”taking command” of the craft.
Please remember that safety is nothing that is obtained once for ever. Each skipper continuously has
to look after and when necessary update his boat.
Read this booklet carefully! We have tried to present the essential information in a short and easily
understood way.
The yachts we build differ in size and equipment. The principles are however fairly similar. You will
quickly find out what applies to your boat. The rest you can ignore.
This is the English edition of this manual. It is also available in German and in Swedish.
Danger !

7
The engine
There are unprotected rotating parts and belts in the engine compartment.
Make sure the engine controls are at ”STOP” position before commencing
any work on the engine to minimise the risk of injury.
The engine manufacturer manual is found at the end of this book.
Engine break-in and running:
More engines are damaged by slow running and by rust caused from poor winterising at lay up than
overloading or due to many operating hours.
There is no reason to be over-cautious during the running in period. All revs between 1800 and 2600
RPM are acceptable. You can use both lower and higher RPM when called upon by the conditions but
avoid running at full speed for longer periods (more than ½ hour).
A new engine will consume more oil than normal. Be especially careful with the oil level controls during
the break-in period.
The freshwater / antifreeze coolant level in engines with dual cooling will rise and fall depending on
the temperature. This is normal.
A good routine, especially during the break-in period but also later, is to check the engine compartment
for unnatural soiling. A leak of water, oil or other can then easily be detected. An alternator belt that
isn’t properly tensioned or has started to line up, will always spread a layer of black dust before it finally
breaks.
Engines in pleasure boats are seldom worn out - they rust away. Especially if you don’t take care of the
engine.
Sea water intake
HR 310, HR 342, HR 372 and HR 37 -see the engine’s manual.
HR 40 – HR 62
Filter
Valve
Danger !

8
If the engine hasn’t been used for a long period of time, especially after the winter, keep an eye on the
cooling water pump impeller. Experience shows that failures most frequently happen after a longer
period of non-use.
It’s a good routine to "listen to the engine". Every skipper will after some time know the "sound" of the
engine. You will directly hear if the exhaust is running dry, before it’s too late and you will also hear
how the propeller works. All this contributes to safe handling in harbours.
The propeller shaft (HR 40 – HR 64)
Normally the engine’s anti-vibrators will subside a little during the first season. It is therefore important
to check the level between the engine and the propeller shaft and maybe adjust it. This should be done
by an expert.
The propeller shaft seals (HR 40 – HR 64)
The stern gland is water lubricated and requires little maintenance. However, if the boat has been lifted
out of the water the black rubber seal has to be squeezed, to be refilled with water (only valid on HR 40,
43 and 48). If forgotten it will run dry and quickly be damaged. HR 40-48: Grease once a year or after
200 hours, according to the engine manufacturer’s manual enclosed. The HR 54 and the HR 64 are
fitted with a seal that refills itself with water.
Press here according to instructions
Note !
Note !

9
The outer propeller shaft bearing is maintenance free in general. However, in very bad water conditions
(sandy waters) there may be a need to replace the rubber bearing. In this case you have to dismount the
propeller and two retaining screws on the sides. After this the rubber bearing can be pulled out with a
suitable tool.
The propeller
Every propeller must be checked regularly, at least very 12 months, more frequently if the boat is
extensively used. You must check the nut and that there is no play. A sail propeller with movable blades
should be greased at least once every season. Check that the blades move freely. If you want to demount
the propeller, please notice that this should be done when the propeller is still wet directly out of the
water. If you let the propeller dry, it may be very tricky to demount it.
The sacrificing anode is fitted so that it is sacrificed whilst protecting the shaft and the propeller. This
is more rapid when the antifouling is new, due to copper in the paint but will slower after some time. If
the anode is eaten away to more than 50 % or covered by a hard shell it should be replaced. The zinc
anode should be checked several times each year.
In certain waters or due to earth leakage of the shore connection there is sometimes a
highly increased consumption of sacrificing anodes. In most cases it is very complicated to find a good
explanation, but a good idea is not to have the shore connection plugged in more than necessary.
If you have a Gori propeller, this one has two gears. That means you have the first gear, with higher
revolution. The second gear (overdrive) has lower revolution. The higher revolution will give slightly
faster acceleration and more power against the wind in extreme situations, but a higher noise level. The
low revolution is the normal gear to use, slightly slower acceleration but less noise and thus greater
comfort. If you want to go from low revolution (overdrive) to high revolution: When your boat is
making some knots, go to neutral and then for a short moment to reverse, without letting the boat
move backwards. Now go to neutral and to forward again and you will have the high revolution. If you
want to go from high revolution to low revolution (overdrive): When your boat is making some
knots, go to reverse and let the boat move backwards. Go forward again and you will have the low
revolution (overdrive) gear. Please read Gori’s manual for details. After using your boat for a while, you
will by instinct hear by the sound what gear you are using. When in doubt what gear you use, give full
gas when the engine is warm. By watching the RPM on the engine panel you will know which gear you
are using.
Important: If you have a Gori two geared propeller, the engine needs to be used at maximum RPMs on
the higher revolution gear (the non-overdrive) shortly now and then, at least once a month. If not, your
engine will be overloaded and damaged. That will for example result in that the engine creates black
smoke and/or the turbo charger stop working.
How to go into sailing position: please see next page.
1= Engine
2= Gearbox
3= Shaft coupling clamp
4= Stuffing box
5= Shaft sleeve
6= Stern bearing
7= Propeller
8= Pro
p
eller shaft
W
arnin
g
!

10
How to fold a sailing propeller into sailing position
First thing is to make sure weather you have a mechanical or hydraulic transmission. HR 310, 342, 372
and 37 have mechanical transmission. HR 40 and larger have hydraulic transmission.
If you have mechanical transmission:
When sailing: Stop the engine. It doesn’t matter in what position the throttle lever is. When the engine
is stopped, take the throttle to reverse position. Now the propeller is in sailing position. Take the
throttle back to neutral, so that the engine can be started up quickly, in case you should need to do so.
The procedure for a hydraulic transmission is completely different:
First method: While the engine is still running, give so much gas that the propeller is pushing the boat
forward 4 knots more than the sails are. Switch the engine off without moving the gas throttle. You will
hear how the propeller folds together and the shaft is no longer moving. Then put the throttle back in
neutral, so the engine may be started up quickly if you should need to do so.
The second one is more reliable but requires more feel: While the engine is still running, put the gas
lever in reverse, but only just so much that you hear that the reverse starts to work, not more. Switch
the engine off without moving the gas throttle. You will hear how the propeller folds together and the
shaft is no longer moving. Then put the throttle back in neutral, so the engine may be started up
quickly if you should need to do so.
The above procedures are for all sailing propellers, no matter the make.
To try to install a shaft brake is definitely something that we do not recommend and is also
unnecessary.
Filling of water- and Diesel tanks
The tank gauge on the instrument panel shows the approximate level in the tank. All tank sensors,
especially in water tanks, can however be affected by errors and the fact that the tanks are not cubic
shaped and the readings should only be taken as a rough measure.
The tanks are provided with plugs for manual sounding. The sounding is done with a dipstick.
Wet the teak deck with water before opening the deck fill to avoid discolouring by the almost
unavoidable diesel drops.
If you want to fill up to full capacity of the tank, do not rely on the tank meter! Use the plug and a dip
stick.
Do NOT overdo the tightening of the cap. A little water respectively diesel oil on the gasket in the
cap will prevent damage.
Never risk running the tank empty. First of all a dangerous situation may develop.
Second it can be complicated to vent the fuel system to get the air out of the injection pumps and
nozzles. In spite of self priming qualities this is a problem that should be avoided at all times.
If it should happen: consult the engine manual.
Environment protection
Water tanks can be filled until they overflow on deck. This must not happen with
diesel. Oil spill is forbidden!! Do not overfill!

11
The water and Diesel tanks HR 37 - HR 43.
If double tanks are fitted the tank gauge will always show the level in the lower tank. From the higher
tank a pipe with a shut off valve leads to the lower. This valve should only be opened to drop the
content of the upper tank down into the lower tank. After this the valve should be closed again.
A few words about Diesel oil
The diesel oil can be blue, grey, neutral, yellow or any colour. All this is of no consequence. What’s
important is that it’s clear and free from water.
It’s simple to take a sample of the oil in your main diesel tank. In the engine compartment you will find
a hand pump in brass fitted on a bulkhead. (HR 37 – HR 64). Directly below the pump is a valve.
Open this valve. The outlet hose is put into a glass jar. The pump draws oil from the lowest point in the
tank and you can easily check the quality of your fuel. If necessary you can pump off any sludge or
water with the same pump. Close the valve after use, as diesel may overflow when the tanks are filled.

12
Diesel consumption and range
The fuel consumption is directly depending on speed, the sea state and hard winds. It will differ widely,
up to six times from economic to full speed. Never under-estimate the period of time the engine might
be in use, always count with a safe margin. Remember that the tanks should never be run empty!
Rough estimation for diesel consumption per hour (no responsibility taken):
Hallberg-Rassy 310 1.9 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 342 2.3 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 372 3,1 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 37 3,2 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 40 3.7 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 43 5 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 48 6,5 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 54 10 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 62 14 litres
Hallberg-Rassy 64 16 litres
The fuel consumption is depending on what kind of propeller you have chosen. More detailed
figures may be found on www.hallberg-rassy.com and look for your yacht model and fuel
consumption / propeller data.
These figures are regarded to cruising speed
(=appx. 70-75 % of maximum RPM) in
smooth sea conditions and little wind.
Note !

13
Drawing of Diesel system HR 310 – HR 46

14
Drawing of Diesel system HR 48 - HR 64

15
The mast and the rig
A detailed manual from the mast manufacturers Seldén Mast is attached.
When sailing downwind with a risk for unintentional gibing, you shall use a
preventer line. Please notice that this line must be lead from the aft end of
the boom (labelled “preventer only”) to one of the forward mooring cleats. If
you should place the line further forward on the boom, you may break the
boom.
Every mast must be checked and re-tuned regularly, at least after one month.
Especially a new rig needs after tension. Failure to do so may result in rig
failure.
The back stay tensioner
You may use normal force to tension your back stay. The mast will then take a bend aft-wards and this
is as it should be. In harbour the extra tension should be released.
Furling mainsail, shackle on boom
Please be aware to install the shackle between the outhaul line on top of the boom with the screw, up,
not down. If the screw is positioned down, it will cause ugly scratches on the upper side of the boom.
Wrong position – will scratch the boom Correct position – shackle will not scratch the boom
Furling mainsail outhaul to cockpit
In case you have a furling mainsail with outhaul line lead back to the cockpit, please be aware that this
line has a lot of load and shall not be adjusted under pressure. Either ease the mainsheet or go up to the
wind direction to take the pressure out of the mainsail when adjusting the outhaul line.
Swan neck fitting for cables
Centre cockpit bots have one or more stainless swan neck fittings for cables. It is a good idea to slice a
soft sponge into pieces and put these parts in the swan neck, to prevent water and air to be forced in
under extreme conditions.
Warning

16
The cutter stay (HR 40-64)
For extended crossing over open water and/or cruising in over 10 knots of true wind, you shall use the
cutter stay on HR 54-HR 64. You attach the stay already in the harbour at the chain plate on the fore
deck. When using the cutter stay, you shall use runners (checkstay) on the windward side. Please notice,
that you shall use the runners in the above circumstances no matter if you sail or motor.
The best procedure is as follows:
Attach and tension the cutter stay until there is a slight bend forward on the mast. On HR 40, 43 and
48 this is hooked on the backstay chain plate on the cap rail near the aft pulpit. On boats over 50 ft this
fitting is not strong enough for the runners. The HR 54 has Wichard padeyes on the deck level for the
runners, the HR 62 and 64 have permanent blocks on the toe rail just in front of the aft cleats. Tighten
the runners with help of the genoa winch. If the main sail is so deeply reefed that it clears the check
stay, you can set both runners. Move the topping lift to the mast and now you can tack without
touching anything important.
We recommend that the runners free rope is secured after the clam cleat either on the mooring cleat aft
or on the block. This arrangement is perfect for heavy weather. The optional stay sail is not intended for
use together with the normal head sails. No special winches are provided.
On HR 40-HR62 a cutter stay that may be parked at the mast may be ordered. On the spreader and
the foot of the mast you then will find a fitting of which the stay can be bent around and brought up to
another fitting where it’s hooked in and tightened. If properly laid the stay will cause no noise.
Cutter stay is an option on HR 40, HR 43 and HR 48.

17
The sails
Sunlight affects the strength of all sail cloth. For this reason sails not in use should be protected by sail
covers, if not furled. Mildew is not a problem for the strength of the sails but seams and laminated sails
can be discoloured if stored or rolled wet. Remove your head sails during extended stays.
Gennakers / asymmetrical spinnakers on bowsprits are not designed to be used in more than 14 knots
true windspeed.
Silicone or Teflon spray on the sail track will make hoisting and lowering easier.
Have a sail maker look over the sails at regular intervals, depending on use!
When tacking, make sure that the foresail has to be moved over the centerline by the wind, only then
you should pull the new sheet. Only in that way you minimize the risk of the sheet to hook in some
kind of fitting.
If you have a non-furling mainsail, put the mainsail cover in place in the following order: Start to put
the forward part in place and close the zipper. Then pull as hard as you can in the aft end to get a good
tension. Finally close the fittings in the lower end. Only this order gives a good looking sail cover.
Sail dimensions
P
(conventional
mast)
P
(Furling mast)
E I J
HR 310 11.10 11.10 4.00 11.90 3.52
HR 342 12.85 12.70 4.50 13.40 3.92
HR 372 14.38 14.35 4.80 15.04 4.17
HR 37 13.50 13.50 4.75 14.55 4.30
HR 40 14.90 14.90 4.90 16.22 4.80
HR 43 Mk II 16.59 16.44 5.40 17.50 5.00
HR 48 18.02 18.02 6.34 19.70 5.55
HR 54 20.25 20.25 7.10 22.48 6.19
HR 62 - 21.78 7.43 24.77 7.66
HR 64 - 22.65 7.80 24.80 7.38
Always check your sail measures on board!

18
The batteries and charging
Your batteries are an important part of your yacht and they need attention.
Never forget that all capacity you take out you have to recharge and this takes a considerable amount of
time. The number of batteries and equipment for charging is different for each type of boat and from
boat to boat depending on optional equipment fitted.
Irrespective of this a regulator is always fitted that allows a stronger charge when the batteries are low
and that brings the charging current down when the batteries are more charged. This means that you
don’t have to constantly monitor the charging.
Don't underestimate the time required to charge the batteries. Only if the engine is running for a very
long time (15 hours or more) or charged by an appropriate battery charger over night, you can calculate
with fully charged batteries. You can manage with just charging 2-4 hours per day for some time, but in
the long run longer charging is needed. Sooner or later you will get a calm day with many engine hours
or a chance to plug in your charger to shore connection.
The alternator on the main engine will give full charge at 1 300 rpm. (if you have a Yanmar engine
full charge from 1 500 rpm) If you want to charge with the main engine in neutral, push the red
button on the engine control lever and adjust the engine rpm without turning the propeller.
Charging the batteries to 100% with the engine’s alternator is practically impossible, it would take too
many hours of running the engine.
One needs to accept that you can only achieve approx. 80% without access to shore power. When using
shore connection, be sure to charge the batteries 100%. This should be done at least once a month.
A 230 v AC diesel generator (optional) is normally charging the batteries through a battery charger.
It’s important not to leave the batteries with a low charge as an ageing process will start. This will be
prevented by recharging. This is of course specially important when you leave the boat for some time.
We strongly recommend you not to leave a charger unattended for several days.
The reason is as follows:
Most battery chargers are said to be able to regulate and in time stop the charging, but this is not the
case under all conditions and overcharging will result. DO NOT leave the charger on when you leave
the boat for a longer time. When you are on board it is all right to leave it on as the voltage can be
checked now and then. The voltage should simply not be allowed to exceed 14.2 v with a 12 v system
and 28.4 V by a 24 V system in normal climate. (In tropical waters it will be 13.9V / 27.8V)
The voltage should not be allowed to sink below 11.5 V (12 V system)
respectively 23 V ( 24 V system).
If this happens; charge the batteries as soon as possible.
Often you find more than one voltmeter. One is on the main switchboard. Another belongs to the
charger. A third may occur on a special battery controller. They can show slightly different values. The
most exact is the one the battery controller, next the charger and last the meter on the panel.
Check the acid level in the battery and fill if required with distilled water once a month. At heavy use
and/or in tropical conditions this may have to be done more often. If you have a BSF manual pump
system for filling water to the batteries, you shall pump until there is resistance in the system.
Batteries may explode. Always approach the batteries with utmost care.
Note !
Danger!

19
Self discharge
You should consider the self discharge if you leave the boat unattended for a long time.
Below 8° C the self discharge is nothing to speak of. The batteries will keep their charge for at least six
months. At 15° to 20° C, such as autumn in the Mediterranean, it will give no problem. At
temperatures over 20° C the self discharge has to be noted and over 30° C it must be supervised.
One month without charging should not be a problem, but three months can give you trouble.
Only when the cables are removed from the battery terminals you can be sure that all equipment is
disconnected, which is essential.
New and well maintained batteries will naturally stand better than old.
The best way to check the charging of the batteries is by measuring the specific gravity of the battery
acid. This is, however, best made by professionals. Battery acid is highly caustic.
If the voltage, after charging a few minutes, doesn't come up to 12.5 respectively 25 v or for an
extended period exceeds 14.2 respectively 28.4 v something is wrong and the charging must be stopped
until investigated.
A few words about consumption of electricity
We repeatedly get the question: How much power does the autopilot, the fridge or the heater use?
These questions cannot be answered as the consumption of an electric motor depends on how much it’s
loaded and for how long it runs.
When operating an electric windlass the main engine must be running.
The drain from the autopilot much depends on the sea condition and how you carry your sails. The
drain is however often overestimated.
A heater that is running day and night is naturally using more electricity than one that is shut down in
the evening and restarted in the morning.
A refrigerator is on the contrary best left on day and night. The thermostat setting, however, has a direct
influence on the power consumption.
A modern well equipped yacht offers every modern convenience and it should also be expected to cope
with the extended power consumption. However, on any boat the following cannot be disregarded.
Charge the batteries regularly and keep an eye on the power consumption. Then you will have no
problems.
The worst thing that can happen is that a battery or one battery cell is damaged without being noticed.
This will inevitably lead to damage to all batteries that are connected to the faulty one. Symptoms you
should beware of; Rapid loss of power by discharge and difficulties to reach full charge are as well as an
acid smell. Have the battery checked by a professional.
The second worst thing is a small lamp left on that will gradually drain your batteries to the last drop.
To avoid this: Always turn off the main switches before you leave the boat for some time. Or if it’s for
a longer time: disconnect the cables directly on the batteries.
Larger boats are often fitted with a battery controller. On this instrument you can see how much
electricity is going out or in and also see how much each consumers differ. It also shows how many
ampere hours that have been used or charged into the batteries. This is the best way to get familiar with
your electric balance.

20
If you have a Mastevolt Combi or an inverter and forget it in ON position it can drain the batteries
quite quickly as the idling consumption is quite high. If you also have a TV, digital TV tuner or similar
that is standing in sleep mode, the current draw is even higher. You have to switch the main switch for
the combi off.
Electrical System
The Hallberg-Rassy yachts are equipped with a state of the art distributed power system for DC voltage
(on the HR 310-HR 43 12 v, on the HR 48-HR64 12 v and 24 v), EmpirBus.
A traditional system had circuit breakers at the Navstation. From each consumer (Pump etc) there was a
wire to the helm station.
An EmpirBus system is equipped with a number of nodes. How many depends on the model of Boat.
You may find the location of the nodes in the wiring diagram that came with the boat. The basic idea is
that you connect your consumer (pump, light etc.) to the closest node. The switch can be connected to
another node where you find it suitable. The out port is programmed to the amperage that should
protect the consumer.
The nodes can be configured with maximum 4 cards. There are IN and OUT cards. The number and
type of cards will change depending on what is connected to the node.
We supply with the Boat:
•Electrical wiring diagram
•CD with software and configuration file
•USB cable for programming
•Basic trouble shooting leaflet
•Description for the function of the main switches
Normally all issues can be solved by just following the steps in the Basic trouble leaflet.
With an old conventional system you carried spare fuses. Many customers have asked for
recommendations what spares to carry with a EmpirBus system.
If you want to be fully self-sufficient we recommend the following spares:
•IN-card (Changing IN or Out card in a node does not require any software update)
•OUT-card (Changing IN or Out card in a node does not require any software update)
•Node (empty) (Changing Node or Membrane panel requires that the configuration file is
uploaded).
•Membrane Panel Changing Node or Membrane panel requires that the configuration file is
uploaded).
You can buy spares from Hallberg-Rassy Parts AB, tel [phone], [email protected]
Uploading configuration file:
Uploading the original configuration file is only needed if you change or add a Node or changing a
membrane switch panel. In order to upload the configuration file you need the following.
•PC with a USB port
•CD with software and configuration file
•USB cable between EmpirBus system and PC
First install the software on your computer. Then connect the computer with the supplied USB cable to
the EmpirBus system. You find the USB connection in the outlet at the chart table. (In older boats the
USB connection was installed in the locker behind the navigators seat or in the chart table.
W
arning !