Hallberg-Rassy MONSUN 31 User manual

M O IM S U IM 31
Hallberg Rassy
44080 Ellos, Sverige. Telefon [phone]
Telex 2445 Rassy S

HALLBERG RASSY BOAT YARD
IWSTRUCTIONS FOR BOAT OWNERS
This booklet is intended to give some hints and information
regarding the best handling and maintenance of your boat-
It does not, however, in any way claim to be complete, but
deals.with some of the questions, which have been previously
answeted upon delivery.
This Instruction is not intended as an "Operation Manual",
but deals primarily with details, which are specifically
related to our boats.
As' a rule the new owner always has to dedicate sufficient
time in order to get himself acqUåinted with his new boat
and its construction. .
The responsibility for the proper maintenance is up to the
buyer.
We wish you GOOD LUCK and many HAPPY NAUTICAL MILES.'
79-03

INFORMATION SHEET
Type of boats MONSUN 31
Construction Nos.
Year of Manufactures
Colour of the Hulls Gelcoat No: Jotun 200
Superstructure Gelcoat No: „ „ = . „ = . Norpol 332
MO t O r N O atooo?oeooc«aBO«i«o***>>*>oooooODae

SPECIFICATIQN
MOV. 1978
Designer: Olle Enderlein
MAIN DATAS:
Length över all
Length in wl
Beam
Draft
Displacement
Keelweight
Sail
area
9.36 m 30'—9"
7.50 m 24'—8"
2.87 m 9'—5"
1.40 m 4'—7"
abt 4,2 tons 9250 lbs
1,9 tons 4200 lbs
39 sqm 430sqft
Height of mast above wl abt 12.8 m 42'—0"
Mumber
of berths 6
leed under power 7,2 knöts
HULL:
Glassfibre reinforced plastic (GRP)
Colour: White
~ttom treated with Antifouling
-till thickness freeboard 10 mm
„ „ below wl 15 mm
„ „ keel 25 mm
Fuel tank and floor moulded in GRP
Ballast keel, iron, moulded in and com-
pleatly protected in GRP
Main bulklieads laminated to the hull
on both sides
Rudder blade in GRP
Rudder main Piece 0 35 mm bronze
Heavy cast rudder fittings in bronze
Hull and deck, with rudder and chainplates
etc, are built under the supervision of
Lloyd's for "Hull Construction Certifi-
cate".
DECK AND SUPERSTRUCTURE:
GRP-sandwich construction with polyvinyl-
cellular plastic as core material for strength
and insulation
Colour: Ivory white
' 11 and deck compleatly joined by over-
icpping GRP laminate
Bulwark formed in the deck and hull moul-
dings and fitted with a solid capping in teak
Handrails, Cappings on cockpit coamings,
Companionway, Hatchguides, Sole and Seats
in cockpit are all in teak.
i teak except Sole and Seats are war-
nished
The deck has a moulded in non-skid sur-
face and is provided with four 1" scuppers
draining below water line to avoid disco-
loured topsides
Two IV2" (38 mm) scuppers from the water-
tight and selfdraining cockpit
SPÅRS AND RIGGING:
Mast and Boom in anodized light alloy pro-
files 146x112 and 111x75.
Scale 1:100
The mast is stepped on the cabin top di-
rectly over strengthend bulkhead
Stab reef with Winch on mast for reefing
lines, outhaul and Cunningham.
Boom vang
Internal halyards
Two Halyard winches.
Decklight in mast
Main sheet, 4 part with clamcleat
Roller car on X-track
Jib sheet, braided terylene
Two adjustable trac cars including Genua
blocks
Headstay, top shrouds, double lower shrouds
and af t stay in 0 6 mm 1X19 stainless steel
rigging wire, pressed end terminals and
7/16" stainless turnbuckles.
Jib and main halyards 0 4 mm 133 tr
stainless wire
Stainless chainplates.
SAILS:
First class workmanship in dacron or
equivalent
Main sail: abt 19 sqm (210 sqft) 280 gr/m2
Working jib: abt 18 sqm (200 sqft)
280 gr/m2
On request is available
Genua jib: abt 31 sqm (340 sqft) 250 gr/m2
Storm jib: abt 12 sqm (130 sqft) 280 gr/m2
Heavy Genua: abt 24 sqm (260 sqft)
280 gr/m2
Spinnaker: abt 71 sqm (780 sqft) 50 gr/m2
All sails are delivered with bags and even-
tual battens.
EQUIPMENT:
Sheet winches, two Lewmar 40 or equiva-
lent.
Winch handles, two 10"
Four 10" mooring cleats
Two 8" mooring cleats
Pulpits, bow and stern, in stainless steel.
Double lifelines with four pairs of tapered
stanchions, height 610 mm.
Windscreens with heat treated glass in light
alloy frames protect the forward part of
the cockpit.
A canvas canopy with transparent sides
covers the forward part of the cockpit.
Six windows of heat treated glass in light
alloy frames, two of the windows are ope-
ning.
1
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HALLBERG-RASSY VARV AB
S-440 80 ELLÖS - SWEDEN
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Light alloy fore hatch with translucent
acrylic glass panel and heavy framing,
type Gebo or equal.
Compass: Suunto, Ritchie SF-GO or equi-
valent.
Permanent mounted bilge pump, type Whale
Gusher 10.
Ancor of light weight type 12 kg (27 lbs).
One ancor line 30 m (100 ft), 12 ft chain.
Four mooring lines 10 m (30 ft)
Boat hook, flagstaff.
International navigation lights 0 100 mm.
Watertank abt 160 litres.
Four 6" fenders.
Cockpit table.
Bathing ladder on transom.
ENGINE:
Volvo Penta diesel MD 11 C, 17 kW (23 hp).
Rev- gear type ' no Shift with reduc-
tion _,r9:l. 12 V en. .crical system with 35
amp alternator.
Two batteries 60 Ah with separate circuits
for engine starting and lighting etc.
Instruments comprise Revolution counter.
Temp.-gauge and optic and acoustic war-
ning.
Propeller 3-blade, diam 15", pitch 12" (two
blade also available) left hand.
Propeller shaft 0 25 mm stainless steel.
Engine and shaft carefully aligned and rub-
ber suspended. The engine foundation is
made in GRP and forms a spilltray under
the engine. The engine compartment is
sound insulated for lowest possible sound
level. Shaft bearing Cutless waterlubricated
rubber bearing. "Wet" exhaust line in rub-
ber with Volvo S ^\al Muffler.
Built in fuel tank 12^ _itre (32 US. g^on)
with separate pump for draining of eventual
water.
ACCOMMODATION:
First class workmanship in selected ma-
hogany, hand rubbed and treated to a silk
smooth finish.
The accommodation consists from for-
ward: Water and gastight stowage for
ancor and lines and also for eventual liquid
gas bottles accessible from deck. The
space is drained overboard.
Forward stateroom with two comfortable
berths. Length 2,0 m (6'—7"). Filler between
berths gives 0.8 m width at shoulder. Below
the berths watertank and stowage. The in-
side of the hull is lined with mahogany.
Shelves at sides.
A folding door separates the forward state-
room from the toilet compartment. The toi-
let compartment is fitted with a reliable
marine pump toilet and a sliding wash basin
with freshwater from footpump. On SB-
side is a good sized open hanging locker
and space for eventual heater. The walls
are covered with light colour linen texture
vinyle. Teak grating on drained floor. Head
room 1.75 m (5' 9").
Sliding door to main cabin.
The main cabin is built with fair sized
sofa-berths P and SB. The port side sofa
is made as a L-sofa. Behind the swing up
backrests is stowage for bedding. Length
of berths 2.0 m (6'—7"). Shelves and lockers
outside the sofas. The lowering table to-
gether with the L-sofa forms a double
berth. The inside of the hull above berths
is paneled with mahogany. The ceiling is
lined with Somvyl. The glassfibre floor is
covered with wall to wall carpet. The
cushions are all in heavy polyeter foam, 4"
thickness. The upholstry in high quality
furniture fabrics.
Aft in main cabin is on SB side Navigatörs
table with chart locker, drawers and elpa-
nel. A quarter berth is arranged aft of the
navigatörs table and is used also as the
navigatörs seat. A hanging space for oilskins
is arranged against the engine bulkhead.
On the port sida is a L-shaped galley with
stainless sink and foot operated Fw. pump.
The galley is fitted with a stainless two-
burner kerosene stove in gimbals. The boat
is also available with a liquid gas stove
with öven. Lockers for crockery etc. Insu-
lated ice-box. Capacity abt 70 litres.
Working surfaces on countertop and navi-
gatörs table in teak texture plastic lami-
nate.
Headroom in main cabin abt. 6'—0" (1.83 m).
The cockpit is selfdraining but with low
sill height for easy access to the accomo-
dation.
Seats and floor in cockpit are covered with
teak. Length of cockpit abt 6'—7".
Stowage in afterpeak and port quarter is
accessable from cockpit.
Main sheet and compass on low beam.
EXTRA EQUIPMENT:
Heating.
Instruments etc.
The right to changes in specification is
reserved.

1.
Maintenance of the Gelcoat - Repair of Damages
The outer, colored coating of a fiberglass boat is called the
Gelcoat. This is a plairv coating, which protects the fiberglass
hull and at the same tine gives the boat an elegant and easy-
to-care exteriör. The thickness of the Gelcoat is approximately
1/32 - l/6*± of an inch and thus considerably thicker than a
normal color coat. It is completely homogenous and has the
same hardness right through. This is why it is often possible
to remove bad scatches through grinding or polishing without
having to apply any new plastic. It is not difficult either to
repair deeper scratches or damages. Any air bubbles, scratches
or ruptures that may occur in this outer coating doesnot mean
that water can penetrate the laminate.
l) Maintenance of plastic surfaces in good condition
The plastic surfaces of the boat should be kept clean and spot-
less for a nice appearance. Use regular detergents and water
but avoid detergents which may cause scratches. Do not use de-
tergents containing ammonia as they may damage fittings, plexi-
glass, etc. Detergents and solutions should be thoroughly
rinsed off. Should the shiny surfaces get dull they can be po-
lished either by hand, using a polishing agent, or by using a low
revolution machine» There are several special polishing agents
for fiberglass boats on the märket.
Waxing is nor normally required, but can do no harm. When waxing
notice that the wax has to be worked well. Do not wax any sur-
faces with pattern, which will make them slippery.
.2) Repair of suporficial scratches, etc.
Scratches in the gelcoating may often look deeper than they
really are and as the scratched surface is different in color
than the shiny one, you may think that the colored coating has
been penetrated. For reasonably deep scratches use water sanding.
Start with a coarse paper and little by little change down to a
fine paper (No 800). Rub the surface after sanding, i.e. use
polish and an abrasive on the surface as well as on the surround-
ing undamaged surfaces.
3) Repair of deep scratches and scaffings
If the gelcoating has been damaged and completely removed, the
repair is done as follows. Get Gelcoat in the proper color (See
Information Sheet) and a hardener from a fiberglass manufacturer
or the yard. The damage is then cleaned with the edge of a knife
and covered with masking tape very closely on both sides of the
hole. Mix the Gelcoat and the hardener (approximately 2% of the
hardener). The temperature in the working area should be be-
tween 60-80 F.
R+M 1-77

2.
Use a generous amount of the Gelcoat to fill in the damaged spot
and immediately place a piece of tape oVer the same to avoid the
Gelcoat from running. After the plastic has hardened, grind off
the surplus and
polish the surface.
Scaffings under the waterline are filled with putty epoxy (Inter-
pad) and then painted with a 2-component primer, e.g. Internation-
al Poly Ground.
Larger scaffings, in case the boat hits bottom hard, have to be
cleaned from crushed fiberglass through grinding and are then re-
paired with fiberglass mat and plastic before final putting
(repair sets are available on the märket)„
Maintenance of Wood - Interiör
The interiör surfaces of mahogany are thoroughly treated with a
synthetic laquer and even after many years of use do not nor-
mally need any other maintenance than a cleaning. Should a sur-
face, however, be damaged to the extent that it would be necess-
ary to re-varnish same, the whole damaged surface has to be sand-
ed and then varnished with a mat laquer (International Lagolac
or similar). Most of the
minor damages are taken care of with a
little bit of oil. Interiör teak, mouldings, etc, can be oiled
once in a while with teak oil.
Exteriör Wood
The exteriör wood is made of genuine teak and is not dependent
on either laquer or oil for its protection. It is thus a matter
of taste whether the teak should bo varnished or be left un-
tireated. It is our opinion that the varnished teak has a better
appearance and that it sets off a better contrast against the
other plastic surfaces, But of course a certain maintenance is
required to keep it up from wear and tear, On varnished seats we
strongly recommend the use of non-skidding and non-seratching
footwear. When the teak is treated at the yard they use a syn-
thetic varnish with a phenolic resin glue base, Varnish with an
oil base is not suitable and a 2-component varnish should not be
used on top of the old varnish, Untreated teak is scrubbed
thoroughly at the same time as the cleaning of the fiberglass
surfaces and will after soiae time take on a silvergrey shade.
In our experience, the use of teak oil on the exteriör may cause
bad looking surfaces, which are diffecult to maintain. Therefore
we do not advise any oiling. It is raost important that the main-
tenance treatment of varnished surfaces is made in time, When you
can see that it is needed it is to late. It is a good piece of
advice to re-varnish already after one or two months in the first
season and than at least once every year. When you re-varnish,
the surrounding fiberglass surfaces must be well protected from
steaks or drips of varnish, which otherwise leaves spöts which
are difficult to remove. Should you happen to spill some varnish
be careful to remove same immediately as, evnn if it is practi-
cally translucent from the start, it will from the sun turn
yellow very quickly on the fiberglass surfaces.
R+M 1-77

3°
Mast and Rigging
If the boat is not commissioned at delivery and therefore the
owner has to takc care of the stepping of the mast and the
rigging, the following procedure should be foliovred„
The halyards are checked and the shrouds and stays are att-
ached to the mast» If the top navigation light is not yet
mbunted, it should be done before stepping the mast, The
spreaders are raounted and locked on to the mast and top shrouds.
In order to make it simple tö obtain the correct angle of the
spreaders, strech the top shrouds along the mast and make a
mark at the position of the spreader bracket on the mast, This
marking indicates the correct position for the outer end of the
spreader, Any covers
for the turnbuckles should be attached at
this stage, When the mast has been stepped and the shrouds and
stays have been fastened to their respective chain plates, the
rigging is tightened by hand and the mast adjusted into a v er-
tical position,
The Principal Adjustment of the Rigging is mafl§ so that the
top shroild and
1
the a£t stay is tightened to coX*i*e gpond to
appröximately 10 % of the weight of the boat and the headstay
sonewhat more, which will give this stay quite, a irigid feeling,
Next in line Cotae the forward under shrouds, which sliöuld make
the mast bend slightly forward at the spreaders, Finally the aft
undershrouds are not tightened more than is possible by hand.
As the vaiios iteras, shch as wires and mast, settle, the rigging
should be tightened, but not before some hours of sailing in
fresh breeze.
First reset the rigging as done when you first step the mast,
A correct stepped mast will assure you to get the best perfor-
mance of your boat, An incorrectly adjusted mast may give
excess weather helm or opposite
effect.
To be sure that the mast, when under stress, does not form a
S-curve, After final trimming make sure that the turnbuckles
are locked with splitpins for protection. It is advisable to
use tape over the same,
Inspect the rigging when the mast is taken down, either for
winter storage or for other reasons. Special care should be
given to halyards, Grease the top and bottom shives, Wash the
mast and afterwards hose it thoroughly.
Before stepping, also control all wire connections for running
lights and antennas,
The anodized surface can be protected by using a silicone-free
wax, The luff of the sail would move easier if the slot is
treated with paraffine,
The wind can cause vibrations in the mast and rigging. This
happens most often when the boat is moored at the dock and
is quite normal and natural. But sometimes you may find it
somewhat disturbing. Vibrations seldom occur during sailing.
R+M 1.77

The most common cause is that the topping lift is too tight.
Specially if the boat is moored and the wind is coming in from
the side, the mast itself may vibrate alongship. This can be
remedied by stretcning the spinnaker topping lift to some
suitable place aft»
A small change in the tension of the rigging often eliminates
the vibrations.
The sails are made of Dacron or Terylene and do not need any
special care during the first hours of sailing to obtain opti-
mum shape. They are pretty well water resistant and in an
emergency you may stowe them away even when moist. At first
opportunity they should however be dried, as discolouration by
mildew can happen.
General hints about sail handling, etc.
The Monsun"s construction assures complete safety and she has
been tested during severe conditions during ocean passages and
numerous crossings of known rough water as the North Sea and
the Baltic Sea.
The largest genua jib (330 sqft) is used in winds up to about
14-16 knöts. The sheets are always outside of the double life-
lines and stays.
The working jib (200 sqft) can be used in combination with
an unreefed mainsail up to 20-25 knöts. As Monsun is well ba-
lanced, even when heeling excessively, there is no need to reef
the mainsail in order to ease pressure on the rudder. The sheets
are either outside the double lifelines and stays or between the
top stay and the lower stay and inside the lifelines.
The storm jib in combination with reefed mainsail is advisable
in forces over 25 knöts winds.
The mainsail (about 210 sqft) is designed for the modern type
of slabreef. The first reef reduces the sail area with 47 sqft
and the second with another 45 sqft.
The winch fitted to the aft side of the mast is used for the
reef lines as well for the internal outhaul.
When the mainsail has been bent the two reeflines should be
pulled through the reinforced eyes in the leach. These lines
are usually in different colours. The shorter line is for the
first reef and the longer for the second. The lines are to be
taken directly from the exit in the aft end oftheboom through
the eye in the sail and fown to the movable eye on the opposit
side of the boora. This eye fitting is adjustable along the boom
to a position, where the sail can be well stretched when reefed.
79-03

5.
Reefing of the mainsail in the sea is performed as followss
If there is a free choice, the boat is put on the SB tack.
(This makes working with the halyard winch easier and gives
right of way). The släck in the boom lift is taken up. The main
sheet is eased, but is not let go. The halyard is slacked off
until the eye at the luff for the first reef can be hooked at
the tack fitting. It is sometimes, specially forthe second reef,
an advantage to let the slide adjacent to the eye free as it
passes the track gate. Mien the eye has been properly hooked,
the halyard is set up hard again. The reef line for the first
reef coming out from the underside of the boom tack fitting is
laid on the winch on the aft side of the mast and is pulled
tight. The reefline is blocked and the winch is released by
pushing the lever at the boom exit forward. The sail is now
ready to be trimmad to the wind. The loose canvas can be secured
with a light line through the eyelets in the sail, if it is
flapping around.
The second reef is made in the same way as the first.
Unreefings Before shaking out a reef, eventual seizings are
removed to avoid serious damage to the sail when it is hoisted.
The main reef lines are let out. The halyard is released to
allow unhooking at the tack. The sail is rehoisted, not for-
getting to reenter eventual slides released during reefing as
they pass the track gate.
The mainsail is to a very large extent dependent on the fight
stretching along the foot and luff and the trimming can change
its appearance completely. Wrinkles along the line of the battens
pockets are most often caused by improper stretching of the luff.
The clew must be securely fastened to the boom and the foot
stretched firmly.
The i ib should be firmly stretched on to the headstay. Use
the halyard winch on the mast.
There are always some wrinkles at the corners of the sails,
but this does not influence the efficiency of the sail. The
sails should be inspected every year in regard to minor dama-
ges and worn out seams, which may have to be repaired.
7903

6.
Instructions regarding the Engine, Engine Installation,
Through Kull Fittings, Head, Electric System, etc.
Regarding the engine itself, we refer to Volvo"s "Owner"s
Manual®1, which should be thoroughly studied before using the
boat. This Manual does not comprise the actual installation,
Engine foundation bolts and engine alignement
After twenty hours running and once every year, the engine
foundation bolts should be checked and tightened if loose,
The alignement of the engine and propeller shaft must be
checked by feeler gauge at the flänge by a competent mechanic,
The propeller shaft is accessible in the aft of the engine
room. For lubrication there is a tube installed to a grease
cup with screw top
under the hatch to the storage space on the
port side. During the first hours of operation the stuffing
box should be greased by turning the handle half a turn every
hour. During these first hours of operation the packing in the
stuffing box is run in and must be carefully checked for over-
heating. It should never be allowed to reach temperatures
higher than 70 centigrades. if, after some hours's use, the
stuffing box has the tendency to more leakage than a few dröps,
it should be adjusted by loosening the locking nut and tight-
ening the stuffing box nut approximately half a turn, but the
box should still be dripping but not very much,
The water intake to the engine is located forward of the engine
accessible through a hatch in the floor just in the front of
the galley.
The fuel oil filter is of a combined water-separating and fine
filter type and ismounted on port side in the engine room,
This filter should be inspected regularly and after an hour"s
run with regard to the water collecting in the lower glass part,
The water cannot be drained off while running, but it should
not be allowed to rise up high in the filter, as this would
ruin the paper filter in the upper part,
Drainage pump for fuel oil tank
If you suspect that the fuel tank contains water, this can be
drained by using a special pump, which is installed under the
hatch on port side of the cockpit, Plunge until you only get
fuel. Check in a glass.
7903

The fuel tank is built in under the engine and has a volume
of about 120 litres ( 35 US gallons). The suction pipe to the
engine is however placed approximately 3 inches above the low-
est point. In order to avoid that the fuel pump sucks in air,
specially while running in a seaway, a further margin should
be left. To calculate the Cruising Range under power, the
accessible fuel should be reduced to about 20-25 US gallons,
which give about 200 miles range at 6 3/4 knöts. At full speed
the fuel consumtion will rise considerably. The level in the
fuel tank can be determined with a flexible dipstick in the
sounding plug on the fill pipe aft of the engine in the engine
department.
The fresh water tank holds about 160 litres (about 45 US
gällons) and is built in under the berths in the forepeak. The
tank is made in special polyethylene and can be cleaned through
a manhole. As the tank is semi transparent, the water level
may be checked.
The fresh water pumps are foot operated and do not reguire any
maintenance. You should make sure, however, that the pumps do
not contain any water during the winter period if it is a risk
for freezing.
The bilge pump is of high capacity membrane type and is
mounted in the port cockpit locker.
The Kerosene Stove is of the brand Optimus, directigniting
type. Regarding operation and its maintenance, we refer to the
maker"s instruction sheet.
Through hull fittings
Beside the intake for the engine and the through hull for the
head, there are the following:
The self bailing cockpit as well as scuppers from the deck
are drained through 2 1 /4" through hull valves, placed on
each side of the engine room. Sink drain in locker below, wash
basin drain behind the head. The latter valve should be closed
during sailing to prevent water to enter when heeling.
The electric system is of 12 V and has 2 different circuits.
One for the engine start and one for navigation and interiör
lights, etc. Even if the second battery is completely dis-
charged, the engine will still have a charged battery for
starting. Each circuit has, as a standard, one 60 Amp. hour
battery. The batteries can be disconnected by the master
battery switches, which are placed on the bulkhead in the en-
gine room against the quarter berth. The lighting battery is
always connected to the generator. This means that an unin-
tentional switch-off of the master switch does not damage the
generator.
79-03

8
The fuse boxes are located at the Navigatör"s table, same as
the electric outlet. Before connecting appliances, which are
sensitive to polari ty, such as TV sets, plus and minus should
be checked.
The head
The boat is equipped with a reliable marine-head of over board
discharge type, The bowl is flushed by pumping seawater and
pressing out the waste directly into the sea, The discharge
is connected with a special
bottom valve, which normally
should be kept closed and in any case always while sailing.
In an OPEN position the handle points away from the incoming
pipe. The valve is open when the handle points along the pipe
on either side. Normally the valve for incoming seawater has
to be closed only when the boat is not in use for a long time.
The valve is placed under the floor in the forepeak. It is
important that the flushing valve of the toilet is set com-
pletely in the position CLOSED. When in use, the bottom valve
shall first be opened. The bowl is then flushed a couple of
times. After use, the bowl is emptied through forceful pumping
at the same time as the small valve at the side of the bowl is
open = FLUSH. When the water level has risen somewhat in the
bowl, the small valve at the side shall be closed and the pump
ing is continued until the bowl is emptied. Put flush valve
back to OPEN position. Never put any foreign matter in the
toilet, a match can easily clog the toilet. Close the bottom
valve after use. As regards the winter maintenance, flush the
toilet with detergent and water and drain through the bottom
plug.
NOTE. In some areas the boats are fitted with optional sewage
treatment devices or holding tanks to meet the anti pollution
laws. For maintenance of optional equipment, see manufacturer"
hand book.
The interiör light bulbs are generally of a 5 W coil type.
The light bulbs in the lanterns are 25 W, except for the stern
navigation light, which is 10 W, Hella, type 8 G A 002600-12
respectively 599-12 or similar. Spare lamps can be purchased
from your dealer or directly from the Hella representative in
your area.
NOTEs IMPORTANT. Checking up on hose clamps
Hose clamps, specially those positioned below waterline, where
a leak means water entering the boat, must be checked up some
time after delivery and then annually. The clamps are, where
possible, of stainless steel and will not corrode. The hose
must be so firmly attached to the fitting that it cannot be
turned by hand and must not leak. Extreme tighting should els-
way be avoided, as it may make the treads of the screws to
override and the clamp to lose its grip.
79-03

9.
Lifting, slipping and winter storage
The Monsun can easily be lifted using a crane with soft
lifting ströps» The center of gravity is positioned abt
1,5 ra aft of the mast» Spreaders on the lifting stops
should be used to avoid excessive pressure on the wooden
rail cappings.
When lifted on a slipway or placed in winter storage,
the weight of the vessel should be supported by woodfaced
blocks. One should be placed as far forward as possible
under the flat keel and one about 1 meter (3") forward
of the rudder.
79-03