Home Fires HF-C700 Specification sheet

HF-C700
Operation and Installation Manual
PLEASE RETAIN FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

•INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
APPLIANCE LOCATION
The appliance must be located at specific distances from its surroundings.
This is to prevent damage to products & furnishings within the vicinity of
the appliance. Adequate space should be provided for servicing the
appliance.
Adjacent walls and cavities should be made of non-combustiblematerials.
The stove should be installed on a level floor with adequate load bearing
capacity.
VENTILATION
Your stove requires ventilation to supply it with air for combustion.
Ventilation is also required to ensure the proper operation of flues and
chimneys to ensure that the products of combustion are safely dispersed
to the outside air. Please ensure the stove has sufficient ventilation for
operation.
Extraction fans lower the pressure in a building which can cause spillage
of combustion products from an open-flued appliance. This can occur
even if the appliance and the fan are in different rooms. If mechanical
extraction is unavoidable in the same room as your stove, then seek
specialist advice to ensure safe operation of the appliance.
FLUE / CHIMNEY
It is important that the flue or chimney to which this appliance is to be
connected has been checked by a competent person to ensure its suitability

and that it will work safely. The chimney or flue and installation should
comply with local and national building regulations.
NOT suitable for installation in a shared flue system.
If installed in a standard type chimney, a register plate needs to be fitted
inside the chimney.
When purchasing flue pipe, 125mm diameter is required. The flue pipe
must be fitted INSIDE the flue spigot and must be sealed with a generous
amount of Fire Cement.
Access should be provided for cleaning the flue gas connector and chimney
flue to ensure that the passageways for exhaust gases remain free from
obstruction.
We recommend that you have a qualified fitter install your stove.
Sufficient operating draft is required for the product to function optimally.
The following considerations should be considered to ensure safe operation
of the appliance.
The flue must be:
•Suitable for use with solid fuel burning appliances (Min. rating of
T400).
•In good condition and provide a draft of 10-20 Pa.
•Free from any internal obstructions.
•At least 4.5 metres from the top of the stove outlet to the top of the
chimney.
•Independent from a shared flue system of any type.
•Larger or equal in diameter than the appliance flue collar size.
Provision should be made to ensure the chimney can be swept in the entirety
of its length.

If using single wall flue, please ensure there is a clearance of at least 3
times the diameter of the flue pipe from any combustible material (e.g.
150mm pipe = 450mm minimum clearance to wooden beam).
HEARTH CONSTRUCTION
Hearths should be constructed of suitably robust materials and to
appropriate dimensions such that, in normal use, they prevent combustion
appliances setting fire to the building fabric and furnishings and they limit the
risk of people being accidently burnt.
The hearth should be able to support the weight of the stove and its chimney
if the chimney is not independently supported.
FUEL
Wood- All types of wood are suitable provided they are well seasoned,
UNTREATED, and have a moisture level between 12% and 20%. For soft woods,
typically they will need to have been left in suitable storage for 9+ months in
order for the moisture to evaporate. For hardwoods, this will usually be 18
months+. It is recommended that logs should be no more than 125mm in
diameter. If you are unsure of the moisture content of your fuel, then you can
buy a moisture meter which will indicate the moisture levels in your fuel. Liquid
fuels must NEVER be used.
WARNING: Wet timber should not be used as this will create excess tar
deposits in the chimney and stove and could increase the risk of chimney fire.
Timber which is not of a suitable moisture content will also create more smoke
and harmful emissions.
The HF-C700 series is multi-fuel capable –as well as wood it can burn suitable
smokeless coal such as Anthracite.
Only fuels suitable for / tested and certified for use on closed stoves can be
used.
Never attempt to burn House coal, Petroleum Coke or Bituminous Coal.
Never use your stove as incinerator to burn waste or rubbish. Never burn Petro-
Coke or coals designed only for open-fires.

Before first use PLEASE READ THIS CAREFULLY!
Most Important regarding the correct position of the baffle plate:
During transport and during installation of the insert, the baffle plate might move out of
position, and before first use its important to make absolutely sure that the baffle plate
is indeed in its correct position. Failure to do this check, can result in damage to the
baffle plate, which won’t be covered by the warranty.
Here below are pictures to indicate the correct position as well as the wrong position:
Correct Position:
Wrong Position:

OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS
The Entire Stove Will Become HOT!
The use of a glove is recommended for adjusting the air inlets and for opening
the door when the stove is hot, as these knobs will heat up when in use.
NOTE –all parts of the stove will become hot during use and care needs to be
taken to avoid injury through burning.
LIGHTING THE FIRE
Prior to lighting the fire for the first time, ensure that-
•Installation and building work is complete.
•The chimney is suitable and sound and has been swept and free from
obstruction.
•Adequate ventilation and provision for combustion air has been made.
•That the stove installation has been carried out in accordance with
Building Regulations and any applicable local regulations as well as these
installation instructions.
•That chimney draw has been checked and within specification. (The stove
has been tested at nominal output with a flue draught of 12 Pa)
INITITAL TEMPERING INSTRUCTIONS / ESSENTIAL
INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USE –It is essential to follow these
‘tempering-in’ instructions in order to avoid serious damage to your stove. The
castings of your stove require very gentle ‘normalizing’ to release
stresses in the metal formed during the casting process. The high temperature
paint finish also requires curing: -

Initial paint curing:
Note: NEVER wipe the stove in the early stages (prior to paint fully curing), as
the paint will be very soft and will damage easily. NEVER attempt to clean or
wipe the paint surface when warm or hot. Please read the following and
follow thoroughly. The stove is finished in specialist high temperature coating
which is air-dry but not yet cured. The stove should be brought up to
temperature gradually over the course several fires to complete this process.
If the stove gets too hot or not hot enough during this process, then the
curing process can fail causing issues with the paint surface.
1) For the first three fires (all on the same night), use KINDLING ONLY, with
each burn lasting for 15-20 minutes and each fire using approx. 1000 grams of
kindling. The door must be closed, but not latched during the burning of
kindling only.Start the second and third kindling fires whilst the fireplace is
still warm from previous fires, but with around 30 minutes cooling time in
between. Once the three kindling fires have burnt through, and whilst the
stove is still warm, but slightly cooled, light a normal fire with three dry logs
weighing around 2 kgs in total. The door must now be fully latched. This fire
should burn for between 45 and 60 minutes. Now allow to FULLY COOL
naturally. The paint should now be cured. Please note that a chemical smoke
will be emitted during this process.
Once the paint curing process has been completed satisfactorily, normal fires
can be lit for the second stage–
Next Stage - stove tempering:
For the first 3 hours burning, use just small wood fires, then for the next 15-
20 hours, total burn time, fires must be very gently increased in temperature
and log size and load and NO SOLID FUELS (products other than wood) must
be used during this period. A stove thermometer will be a valuable tool in

helping you to achieve this and to ensure an efficient burn rate in future.
After these small fires, gently increase fires over the course
of a week or so. Starting a large fire too soon is likely to damage the stove in
which case will not be covered by the warranty.
VERY IMPORTANT!!
ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE READ AND UNDERSTOOD THESE INSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE LIGHTING THE FIRE, AND THAT YOU ARE CONFIDENT THE STOVE
HAS BEEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY.
ALWAYS WEAR A PROTECTIVE GLOVE WHEN REFUELLING YOUR STOVE.
Ignition (PLEASE FOLLOW THE INITITAL TEMPERING INSTRUCTIONS FIRST
TO AVOID DAMAGE)
•Ensure the ash-pan is in place.
•Ensure all air inlets are fully open
•Construct a pile of kindling in the middle of the grate using
approximately 1kg of kindling wood
•Light with a single chemical firelighter
•Partially shut the door but leaving it cracked open slightly
•After about 5 minutes or when the fire is well established, shut the
door
•After a further 3-5 minutes as the fire starts to die, add a further
three larger pieces of wood weighing approx. 1kg.
•Once theses logs are alight, and after about 7 minutes or so, a normal
load of 2 or 3 logs weighing up to 3kg in total can be added (ONLY
AFTER THE INITIAL TEMPERING PERIOD HAS BEEN FOLLOWED –SEE
ABOVE)
•Once this load is burning well, the Primary air vent should be closed,
with the Secondary and Tertiary vents left open, as much as
necessary to achieve the desired burn rate.

Refueling
•Open the Primary air vents
•Add up to 3kg of wood
•After about 2 to 3 minutes or when flames from the fresh fuel fully
established, close the Primary vents
•At high power output, your stove will require refueling approximately
every hour.
•It is important to follow these instructions in order to achieve clean
burning and to maximize the efficiency of the stove
•Do not leave the fire unattended until flames are well established on the
newly charged logs
•Always refuel onto hot embers.
•If the fire has died out at the point of refueling, use kindling to re-establish
the fire and follow the “Ignition” procedure above.
•It is important that the stove is not overloaded with fuel.
•Reduced burn rates can be achieved by reducing the openings of the
Secondary and Tertiary air vents.
•Operation with the door open can cause excessive smoke and damage to
your fireplace. The appliance must not be operated with the door left
open except as directed in the instructions above.
Refueling on to a low fire bed
If there is insufficient burning material in the firebed to light a new fuel charge,
excessive smoke emission can occur. Refueling must be carried out onto a
sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash so that the new fuel
charge will ignite in a reasonable period. If there are too few embers in the fire
bed, add suitable kindling to prevent excessive smoke.
Fuel overloading
The maximum amount of fuel specified in this manual should not be exceeded,
overloading can cause excess smoke and serious damage to your fireplace.

Operation with door left open
Operation with the door open can cause excess smoke and serious damage to
your fireplace. The appliance must not be operated with the appliance door left
open except as directed in the instructions.
Dampers left open
Operation with the air controls or appliance dampers open can cause excess
smoke and serious damage to your fireplace. The appliance must not
be operated with air controls, appliance dampers or door left open except as
directed in the instructions.
Controlling Stove
Burning wood:
•The Secondary vent provides air supply for the air-wash system and
allow air into the higher areas of the firebox –this is called the
Secondary air –When this vent is open, the door glass is kept clean
by high speed air rushing downwards across the inside of the glass.
Air-wash/secondary air lever (The control lever to the right) - Use this
to control the fire when burning wood. Once the fire is established,
this will be your main control over burn rate and heat output.
•Primary air control lever (The control lever to the left) –This should
be closed (moved to the left) as wood does not need air from below
to burn effectively. Once the fire is well established (see instructions
below) this vent must be closed (when burning wood). -NEVER leave
the Primary vent open when burning wood other than on start-up and
for a maximum of 5 minutes when re-fueling.
•Avoid overloading your appliance as this may cause damage to the
product and cause unstable burn conditions. See max fuel load stated in
‘Refuelling Wood’ section for more info.

•On the Tertiary, the air is channeled through a chamber on rear of the
stove and to the rear of the firebox and enters the firebox via a series of
small holes in the in the back wall of the stove. This air inlet helps to
ensure thorough and clean combustion.
Burning coal:
•The Air-wash/secondary air lever (The control lever to the right) –
This should be left partially open, to allow the air-wash system to
keep the glass clean.
•Primary air control lever (The control lever to the left) - When burning
coal, the stove should be mainly controlled using this lever.
•Avoid prolonged periods of slow burning which may cause build-up of
creosote with certain fuels. Using a flue temperature gauge can help
achieve the optimum temperature for clean combustion. Ensure you
use the suitable fuel for the appliance.
Recommended Fuels
•Split and dried logs properly seasoned with less than 20% moisture
content and no larger than 250mm x 100mm (max fuel load 3kg
should not be exceeded).
•Anthracite (Medium) smokeless fuel.
•Eco Logs.
•Briquettes
Fuel to Avoid
Use of incorrect fuels can invalidate the warranty of your appliance.
•Petroleum Coke
•Household waste
Wood with a moisture content above 20%

•Household coal or bituminous coal
•Waste timber that has been painted or treated e.g. railway sleepers
Refuelling Wood
1. Refuel when a layer of hot embers has been formed in the fire bed.
2. Spread the embers out over the fire bed using the ash-pan tool.
3. While the embers are still glowing, add 1 or 2 logs to the fire.
4. Open the right air control fully to ignite the new fuel.
5. Once new logs have ignited, adjust the right air control to give the
desired combustion. If there are too few embers, use suitable
kindling prior to the fuel load to prevent excessive smoke.
Max fuel load –3kg (The maximum amount of fuel specified in this manual
should not be exceeded, overloading can cause excess smoke)
Refuelling Coal
1. De-ash the fire bed.
2. Fully open the left air control and add fuel.
3. When the new fuel is fully lit adjust the left air control to give the
desired combustion.
4. Max fuel load –3kg (The maximum amount of fuel specified in
this manual should not be exceeded, overloading can cause
excess smoke)
Weather Conditions
Weather conditions can affect the performance of the stove. Strong winds
combined with close buildings or trees can cause the stove to smoke. Heavy
rain may lower the temperature of the flue making it difficult to light or slow
to heat up.

•Troubleshooting/ F.A.Q.
Problem
Probable Cause
Recommended Action
Fire difficult to light
Green/Wet wood
Use recommended fuels
Insufficient air
Open air controls
Insufficient draft
Check flue is not
obstructed, sweep if
needed
Fuel too large
Use kindling / small logs to
start fire
Fire burns too quickly
Too much air
Reduce air controls
Excessive draft
Install draft
stabiliser/damper
Insufficient Seal
Check condition of rope
seal around glass
Smokes upon initial
lighting
Cold flue pipe
Burn firelighters/small fuel
loads to preheat flue prior
to lighting
Smokes while burning
Insufficient draft
Check flue is not
obstructed
Glass blackening
Insufficient Air
Open air-wash control
Damp fuel
Use recommended fuels
Insufficient seal
Check condition of rope
seal around glass
Glass crazing (minute
splinter marks on
glass)
Cold liquid hitting
warm glass
Replace glass
Low heat output
Poor quality fuel
Use recommended fuels
Insufficient Seal
Check condition of rope
seal around glass

Troubleshooting Solutions For Stove Problems
Installed and used correctly your stove will provide years of warmth with little
effort, but when used incorrectly, it will be difficult to achieve the results you
expect and the stove can be damaged.
Combustion is a complex chemical process with many variables, all of which need
to be correct for your stove to burn correctly. Taking the time to understand these
variables and the combustion process will make your life with your new stove a
happy one.
1. Stove is difficult to light / keep lit
Common causes:
•Damp fuel –Wood should be maximum 20% moisture and ideally 12-
15%. We strongly advise purchasing a digital moisture meter to test
your logs. Always split logs in half and test the center of the log.
•Poor draught and chimney strength –Your chimney needs to pull
through adequate air for combustion. Flue draught should be
between 12Pa and 18Pa –if in doubt consult a local expert.
•Logs too big –Always start fires small and gradually build them up.
Begin with paper or solid firelighters, building a small fire with
kindling (small sticks of wood) until the kindling is well alight and hot.
Then gradually build the fire with your wood logs (not too thick).
(Splitting the logs will increase the surface area allowing more
thorough burning). Once the firebox is up to temperature, slightly
larger logs can be added.
•Chimney/flue blocked –Excessive soot should not be allowed to build
up in the flue –flues should be professionally cleaned when required
and, in any case, at least once per year, or more if your chimney / fuel
type is causing excessive soot build up.
2. Fuel burns too quickly
The rated output on your stove is based on burning dry seasoned hardwood
and re-fueling every hour. By turning down the vent controls the fuel will burn
slower and last longer.

Common causes:
•Excessively strong chimney draught –If by turning down the vents the
fire still burns too quickly, this is normally due to excessively strong
draught on the chimney. This will lead to over-firing of the stove
which is inefficient, losing excessive heat into the chimney and pulling
too much cold air through the house. A flue damper fitted into the
first section of flue pipe can help to calm a chimney draught.
•Fuel type/size –try experimenting with different types of wood/fuel
and different sized logs. Coal and slightly larger logs will burn slower.
Softwood such as pine will burn particularly fast. Ideally use
seasoned, naturally dried logs (hardwood) where possible.
3. Smoke comes back into room
•A small amount of smoke entering the room when you open the
stove door is normal but should stop after a few seconds….
•If smoke ever leaks constantly into the room, stop using the fire
immediately, shut down all vents on the stove, open windows and
exit the room. Do not use the stove until a local expert has
established the problem.
•Common causes:
•Insufficient air supply into the room –do you have an air brick
of sufficient size to feed the stove with air?
•Blocked chimney –have the chimney swept and checked by a
registered chimney sweep.
•Insufficient chimney draught –can be due to a variety of
reasons –please refer to previous text under “Poor draught
and chimney strength”
•Rapid condensation of the gases - causing them to slow down and
back up in the chimney –this can be due to too broad a chimney/flue,
relative to the size of the appliance or the flue not being adequately
insulated. You may need a flue liner and/or insulation in the chimney.
4. Glass gets dirty quickly
Common causes:
•Top vents not open –Your stove has a top vent this controls the
Airwash system –the top vent needs to be constantly open
adequately to ensure enough air is coming into the stove. No Airwash
will work fully when the stove is burning very slowly (slumbering).

•Primary Vent left open –Primary vent when left open will interfere
with the operation of the Secondary (Airwash), causing blackening of
the window. Always shut Primary once fire is established, and only
ever open as much as necessary to get the fire going or to give a short
‘boost’ to new wood when refueling.
•Poor fuel –wet wood or softwood (e.g. pine) will produce a lot of tar,
creosote and soot, dirtying the glass and eventually blocking the flue.
•Insufficient chimney draught –see previous note under “Poor
draught and chimney strength”.
•Baffle plates incorrectly fitted
•Fuel loaded to close to window –The wood needs a good clear
distance away from the glass –otherwise it will produce thick black
marks on the glass and interfere with the Airwash airflow.
5. Not enough heat being produced
Common causes:
•Poor quality fuel –logs should be dry well seasoned
hardwood.
•Poor draught and chimney strength –see previous notes.
•Excessive draught –too much heat being lost up the chimney
–try a damper in the flue.
•Insufficient air supply - Check air supply is sufficient / vents on
stove are clear. Does the room have a vent?
•Not enough fuel being burned –the rated output of your stove is
based on burning beech wood (typical of most hardwoods), refueling
once per hour. 1kg of this wood has approximately 4-5 kw hours of
energy.
•Larger stove / stove with higher output required for room size.
6. Too much heat in room
Common causes:
•Excessive chimney draw –try fitting a damper unit in flue
•Too much air supply –close down primary vent, then if still
too hot reduce tertiary and secondary vents.
•Stove may be too large for room size.
7. Grate deformed / Baffle plate deformed
Your stove will have been designed to operate correctly for many years
with a relevant quantity of fuel and re-loading times. The grate and baffle

plate can over time start to bow/deform –this can only be caused by very
high temperatures. Using Solid Fuel products can accelerate this process
but burning wood at too high a temperature can also cause damage to
internal parts.
Common causes:
•Excessive chimney draw –try a damper in the flue.
•Excessive primary air supply –close down primary vents.
•Incorrect fuel –NEVER use Petroleum Coke, Bituminous fuel,
House coal or any un authorized fuel.
•Stove overloaded –excessive burning of too much fuel.
The baffle plate and the inner linings of the stove, and the grate all
designed to be replaceable parts –call us if you need to order new ones.
What to do in the event of a chimney fire:-
•cut off the air supply to the stove, i.e. close the primary and
secondary air supplies
•move any combustible materials well-away from the stove
•get everyone out safely
•make sure that the fire brigade has clear access
•call the fire brigade
If you have any questions or concerns regarding the safe use of your stove, please
contact us: - Home Fires at www.homefires.co.za

IMPORTANT NOTICE
WARNING: When properly installed and operated this appliance should only emit
fumes during fuelling and de-ashing. The stove is designed to be operated only
with the doors shut. To prevent fume spillage only open the doors for ignition,
refuelling and cleaning. Persistent fume emission is dangerous and in certain
circumstances could be fatal. It should not be tolerated. If you experience heavy
or persistent fume emission, please follow the procedure below.
1. Open all windows or doors to ventilate the area.
2. Extinguish the fire and if safe to do so, remove fuel from the appliance.
3. Check for blockages in the appliance and clear if possible. Particular
attention should be paid to the baffle plate which should be
inspected for any accumulated soot and products of combustion
regularly. If excessive amounts are present, the baffle plate needs
removed and cleaned.
5. Have the chimney checked by a professional person for any sign of
blockage.
6. Do not attempt to relight the appliance until the source of the blockage
has been determined and cleared.
7. Seek professional opinion on the cause of the blockage if in any doubt.
You may also detect a smell from the appliance on initial lighting while the
paint cures. Stove paint must be cured on the surface of an appliance. During
the first few hours of burning, there will be some fumes / smoke as the paint
cures. When the body of the appliance is properly heated, it usually takes
about an hour or so after that to bake / cure the paint. It is recommended to
ventilate the room well by opening windows / doors during this time and
where possible, leave the room.
In the event of a chimney fire, immediately close the door and move the air
wash to the closed position. Call for assistance from fire service. A chimney fire
can cause significant damage to the chimney construction and must be
assessed by a professional before relighting your appliance.
Never burn plastics, household waste or liquids in your stove.

•MAINTENANCE
Regular cleaning of the stove is essential for safety and efficiency. The ash-pan should be
checked/ emptied at least after every use, and during use if burning for longer periods.
Extra care must be taken when removing warm or hot ashes.
Step by step maintenance instructions:
1) A minimum of once per year the flue system should be cleaned/swept by a qualified
chimney sweep or suitably qualified stove installer. The servicing of the appliance can
usually be carried out at the same time. Whether the system needs sweeping more
frequently than this will depend on use.
2) Baffle plate should be removed and checked for debris twice a year as a minimum
depending on use. Warped/misshapen baffle plates can be a warning sign that the stove
has been over-fired (allowed to excessively heat on one or more occasions).
3) Once removed, brush the baffle using a stiff brush or wire brush to remove any
deposits. Clear any debris from the upper parts of the stove above where the baffles
normally sit.
4) Inspect firebricks on both the sides, rear and base for cracks - (some are normal and not
a fault. Nor are they detrimental to the workings of the stove, however it is good practice
to be aware as any develop and over time if they worsen, they may need replacing). If you
feel a crack in the firebrick is just cosmetically unsightly it can be filled with a small amount
of fire cement.
5) Vacuum or brush out the inner stove box thoroughly.
6) Visually check that the glass is still making a good seal against its rope on the inside of
the door frame and that it’s retaining clips remain firmly in place to the touch.
7) Check that the door is making a good seal with the body of the stove all around (over
time the rope will flatten out and loose some flexibility - when this happens and when it is
no longer sealing fully all the way round, it needs to be replaced). The rope size used here
is a 10mm-Soft type.
8) Blemishes or scratches to the paintwork can be touched up using a suitable high
temperature stove paint in a spray can. Ensure the stove is cool and clean before applying
and follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions. Contact Home Fires directly if you are
unsure which paint to use.
Throughout the season, it is good practice to keep the stove in generally good clean order
which will prolong the life of serviceable components and enhance the experience you
have with your fire.
9) NEVER wipe the stove in the early stages (prior to paint fully curing), as the paint will be
very soft and will damage easily.
10) To keep the outer body clean, simply dust over with a clean soft duster when cold.
11) If there are marks which cannot be removed with a duster, use a slightly moistened