Honnor Marine DRASCOMBE 1979 User guide

1
THE
DRASCOMBE
OWNER'S
HANDBOOK
1979
How to get the best
from your boat
Original for
by

THE DRASCOMBE FLOTILLA
AN INTRODUCTION B THE DESIGNER
Contrary to popular belief, boats of the “Drascombe“ flotilla were not
designed to appeal in the market for nostalgic reasons. It all started when I had
sold my boat-building concern in 1 64 and had retired to a remote farmstead on
the top of Dartmoor. After a while I decided to indulge in the pleasure of
designing and building a boat to suit my own requirements and being out of the
boot business, I was entirely free of thoughts of “what will sell“.
My family did not share my passion for sailing small boats. In fact, it had to
come to the point when I went sailing alone.
Quite simply, if we were going to enjoy our leisure time on the water as a
family, I had to design a boat that they could enjoy, and to do this, the first
requirement was that they should have complete confidence in the craft. The
design began to shape by my thinking solely of our own needs which were..
1. Ability to trail and for the family to handle on and off the trailer.
2. First rate sea-keeping qualities.
3. A good motor boot for, to start with, it was going to be a question of fishing
and pottering under power.
4. I wanted the boat to be lively enough for me to enjoy a good hard sail once
I had put the family on the beach.
It was uphill work but eventually the first “Drascombe Lugger“ was
launched in 1 65.
The half-decked open boot with a high bulwark did wonders for confidence.
The loose-footed yawl rig, with all sails stowing aloft and out of the way, gave the
space needed for a family. By making the boat balanced under jib and mizzen as
well as under full sail, the motor could be cut and fishing lines streamed without
fear of hearing that sickening crunch as boom strikes female head. The hard turn
to the bilge gave a powerful hull well able to carry sail. Her generous sheer kept
her dry.
In short, we started to enjoy our boating together.
But it was not until 1 67 that I was persuaded that other men might also
have my problem. So at Earls Court in 1 68 the first wooden production
Drascombe Lugger was sold, within 2 minutes of the doors being opened to the
public.
The first G.R.P. Lugger came out in 1 6 . By 1 70 the “stretched“ version,
the Longboat, was in full production. This boat was primarily for youth training
2

but the clamour for some shelter led to the “Cruiser“ version coming out in 1 71.
There followed in 1 72 the 15ft. 6in. Dabber basically a double-ender with
the upper two planks being allowed to flare away to form a V-shaped transom.
The balanced hull form, vee‘d at both ends, needs only a shallow rudder hung
on the transom.
The Driver came along in 1 74 - an 18ft. open boat with a standing lug
yawl rig and petrol or diesel inboard engine. She was withdrawn in 1 78 when
the escalating costs of inboard installations had priced her out of reach of most
people.
The Drifter was introduced to the public in 1 77 after a year of prototype
trials which proved that her shallow draft design was even more efficient than
had been hoped for. Although no longer than the Longboat, the Drifter is
beamier, deeper and heavier, with accommodation for two or four people. She
can be fitted for on outboard in a well or with a sturdy diesel inboard and full
electric cabin and navigation lamps.
The Scaffie came out in September 1 78 and was an instant success.
Slightly smaller than the Dabber, the aim was to save money by simplifying. With
one sail and no centreplate she is indeed a simple boat but lacks nothing of the
essential Drascombe character.
January 1 7 saw the well tried Cruiser Longboat replaced by the Coaster,
using the same hull but with completely redesigned deck and cabin layout and a
more comprehensive specification included in the standard craft.
For the Record:
1 68—6 lan Brinkworth cruised the Greek archipelago in his Lugger.
1 6 —70 David Pyle sailed his Lugger from Emsworth, England to Darwin
Australia.
1 70 Ken Duxbury and his wife cruised the Aegean in their Lugger.
1 71 The same intrepid couple sailed their Lugger from Greece to
England.
1 73 Geoff Stewart sailed on open Longboat from England to Jamaica.
There have been numerous crossings of the English Channel and the Irish
Sea by various Drascombe boats but —
DON‘T FORGET —
THE SEA HAS NO MERC
and although the boats are seaworthy enough, when the chips are down, safety
depends on the skill and experience of the crew. Good sailing and good Luck!
J.L. WATKINSON.
3

SCAFFIE
Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is fitted near the
bottom of the stern-post and may be reached by lifting the central floorboard. Get
rid of any water present and make sure the bung is screwed tightly home. If an
outboard motor is fitted check that it is correctly positioned on its mount and that
the clamps are screwed up tightly. In the case of motors which swivel through
4
DRASCOMBE
SCAFFIE
PEAK
LUFF
MAINSAIL
STANDING LUG
LEACH
HEAD
HALLYARD
THROAT
MAST BAND
GAFF (YARD)
TILLER
TACK
FOOT
CLEW
MAINSHEET
REEF CRINGLES
REEF POINTS
Fig. 1.: the rigged Scaffie showing the principal parts

360 degrees for reverse some careful adjustment may be needed to avoid
touching a gunwale. If pushing the boat oft a trailer, secure a line to the mooring
cleat and hold on to it!
Rigging tor Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most
conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while
afloat, if necessary. The main halyard is the only rigging that goes up with the
mast and this is rove through a swivel block shackled to the bail on the after side
of the mast band. Tie the ends together to make sure you do not loose it. With
the mast gate open place the heel of the mast in its step and raise the mast into
place. Swing down the gate and secure it.
The sail has to be lashed to its yard. Lash the throat first to the lower end
and then haul out the peak until folds appear parallel to the spar, before securing
it. Lace the head of the sail to the yard with the marlin hitch (Fig.11) but not too
tightly. The lacing must stop the sail from bowing away from the spar but should
be just slack enough to permit some movement.
Bend the halyard to the yard with a clove hitch with its end secured as
shown in Fig.2 and loosely attach the yard to the mast with a parall made fast to
either side of the clove hitch. Paralls are made up by threading the brown balls
on to a short length of line with a knot between each (Fig.3). Reeve off the tack
downhaul, starting with a knot under the mast thwart on the starboard side up aft
of the mast, through the tack eye on the sail down through the thwart to port.
Prevent it from unreeving by tying a knot. Reeve off the mainsheet as shown.
The Becket block to which one end of the sheet is secured runs on a rope
horse between the two posts by means of the small stainless steel block fixed to
it. Tighten the horse and secure in the cleat provided. Fit the double block to the
clew of the sail by means of the large carabine clip and shackle the single block
to the top of the rudder. Then reeve off the sheet so that it leads from the rudder
head forward along the tiller.
When ready, hoist the mainsail as high as it will go and belay it on the
belaying pin beside the mast. Pull hard on the end of the tack downhaul until
folds extend up the sail from lack to peak and then cleat it beneath the thwart. It
needs to be set up harder in fresh winds than in light.
Sail the Scaffie with same curvature in the mainsail at all times, keeping it
full of wind. In hard puffs you have no jib to keep way on while you ease the
mainsail but it you let the boat stop you lose control. Therefore do not hesitate to
reef in good time (Page 23). Just put her beam to the sea, lower the sail and
take one or two reefs. It is quite quick and she will have drifted only a short
distance to leeward by the time you have hoisted the sail and got under way.
There is a length of shock cord with hooks which should be rigged from the
underside of the fixed part of the tiller to the stainless steel eye just abaft the
grating in the after deck. When under power it is best to unship the wood tiller
and steer with the motor. The shock cord will hold the rudder straight.
5

However, it is quite useful even when sailing since it limits the movement of
the tiller should it be accidentally let go.
6
BOWLINE
Fig. 2.: some useful knots
OVERHAND KNOT
HALF HITCH
CLOVE
HITCH
Fig. 3.: Paralls are made up by threading the beads on light line with a
knot between each. Two beads suffice between the ends of gaff
jaws. Four or five are needed where the mast is encircled.

DABBER
Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is in the after
locker. Get rid of any water present and make sure the bung is screwed tightly
home. If an outboard motor is fitted,check that it is centred on its mount and that
the securing clamps are done up tightly. If pushing the boat off a trailer, secure a
rope to the mooring cleat and hold on to it!
Rigging tor Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most
conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while
afloat if necessary. Before stepping the main mast make sure that the shrouds
(side stays) and the forestay are attached to the mastband and lying along the
mast without twists or tangles. The main halyard should be rove through the
sheave at the masthead and the jib halyard through the block hanging from the
forestay lug. Tie their ends together to ensure that they do not undo themselves.
7
Fig. 4.: The rigged Dabber showing the principal parts
MIZZEN
DRASCOMBE DABBER
PEAK
LUFF
MAINSAIL
STANDING LUG
LEACH
HEAD
HALLYARD
THROAT
CENTREPLATE
GAFF (YARD)
DOWN-
HAUL
TACK
FOOT
CLEW
MAINSHEET
REEF
CRINGLE REEF POINTS
BUMPKIN
ROWLOCK
SOCKETS
BOWSPRIT
JIB SHEETS
LANYARDS
SHROUD
CLEW
FOOT
LEACH
TACK
HEAD
FORESTAY
LUFF
JIB

Pick up the mast and hold it vertically in the boat with the forestay lug on the
mastband facing forward. Raise it and lower it straight down through the hole in
the thwart, placing the heel firmly in its socket.
To set up the shrouds take one side and pass several turns of the lanyard
through the U-bolt fairlead which is fitted on the side bench. Tension slightly and
secure with two or three half-hitches(Fig.15). Do the same the other side, pulling
the mast central and bending it somewhat aft. Finally reeve off the forestay
lanyard through the shackle in the stemhead fitting and pull it up as hard as you
can before securing. This should tension all three wires and leave the mast
standing straight without bearing hard on the thwart in any direction. Note that
the forestay is always set up to the stemhead and not to the end of the bowsprit.
The mainsail has to be lashed to its yard and the mizzen to its mast. The
method is the same tor both. First secure the lower corner (in the case of the
mainsail, the throat cringle to the lower end of the yard) and stretch the sail along
the spar. Tension the top lanyard until the sail shows slight creasing parallel to
the spar and secure the peak. Then lace to the spar with the marlin hitch (Fig.11)
but not too tightly. The lacing is only to stop it from bowing away and should be
slack enough to permit some movement of the sail relative to the spar.
Ship the bowsprit through the hole in the stern and the bumpkin through the
hole in the corner of the transom and you are ready to go. Step the mizzen mast
through the transom cap into in step and tie its sheet to its clew. Pass the sheet
through the bullseye on the bumpkin, back to the clam cleat on the after deck via
the bullseye on the side of the mast. Tie the jib halyard to the head of the jib and
slip the loop at the tack of the jib over the end of the bowsprit. Hoist away on the
halyard and belay to the belaying pin on the thwart with a good amount of
tension. The jib sheet may conveniently be secured to the clew by means of a
double overhand knot as explained in Fig. 5 on Pg. 8. Pass the ends through the
fairleads on the side bench and either put a knot at each end or tie the ends
together.
Ship the rudder in shallow water and fix the tiller by holding the thin end
high in the air while passing it down over the rudder head until it engages with
the notch in the rudder. You may then raise the tiller a considerable distance
before it comes clear of the circular arc on the rudder and hence in danger of
coming off.
After shipping the tiller adjust the length of the mainsheet horse (the length
of line across the transom on which the lower block runs) to give it about a foot
of slack. (Fig. 16).
Before hoisting the mainsail first reeve off the mainsheet (Fig. 16) and
shackle it to the clew but do not secure the end other than with a knot to stop it
from being lost through the lower block. Pass the tack downhaul, which is single
length of line approximately 4ft. long, up through one of the holes in the thwart,
tying a knot in its end to hold it there, through the tack cringle on the sail and
down through the other hole opposite (Fig.12) but do not draw tight. Attach the
halyard to the yard by taking two turns round the yard immediately below the tri-
angular chocks, and secure with two half hitches (Fig.2)
8

Temporarily attach the other end to make certain it does not vanish up
through the masthead sheave. Loosely attach the yard to the mast with the parall
beads on their short length of line (Fig.13). Hoist the sail up quickly to the
masthead, tensioning the luff to avoid a poke in the eye from the yard as it goes
up! Belay the halyard on its belaying pin and then pull down on the tack and
cleat underneath the thwart.
Paralls are made up by threading the “beads“ on to light line with on
overhand knot between each and a retaining knot at the ends (Fig. 3).
For sailing in light winds the tack downhaul should be tight enough to cause
just a small amount of creasing in the sail between peak and tack when head to
wind. When the sail is full of wind and sheeted home these creases disappear
and it draws well with a full, fair curvature. As the wind increases in strength, so
the tack should be pulled down harder The secret of getting a good performance
from the standing lug lies largely in the adjustment of this tension. At no time
should it ever be slack enough to permit creases across the sail from clew to
throat.
In fresh winds it may be desirable to reef the mainsail. This is simple and
quick to do and is described on page 23.
9
Fig. 3.: The double overhand
knot for securing the jib sheets

10

LUGGER
Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is in the after
locker. Get rid of any water present and make sure the bung is screwed tightly
home. If an outboard motor is fitted,check that it is centred on its mount and that
the securing clamps are done up tightly. If pushing the boat off a trailer, secure a
rope to the mooring cleat and hold on to it!
Rigging tor Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most
conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while afloat
if necessary. Before stepping the main mast make sure that the shrouds (side
stays) are attached to the mast band and lie straight down the mast.
11
Fig. 6.: The rigged Lugger showing the principal parts
MIZZEN
DRASCOMBE LUGGER
PEAK
LUFF
MAINSAIL
GUNTER LUG
HEAD
PARALLS
THROAT
GAFF (YARD)
ADJUSTER
TACK
FOOT
CLEW
MAINSHEET
REEF
CRINGLE
REEF POINTS
BUMPKIN
ROWLOCK SOCKETS
JIB SHEET
DRUM
JAWS
FOOT
LEACH
TACK
HEAD
LUFF
JIB
SWIVEL
PUMP

The head of the jib should be shackled to the swivel of the furling gear and
the swivel attached to the jib forestay by means of the two multi-hole adjusting
plates. Try about the middle of the adjustment first and arrive at the correct pair
of holes by trial and error (Fig,14).
To step the mast have it lying in the boat with its heel under the mast thwart
and secure one end of the main halyard to the mooring cleat. Lift the mast, insert
the heel in its step and raise until it fits into the half-round notch in the thwart.
Take up the slack in the halyard and secure it to a belaying pin. The mast is now
secured while you attach the tack of the jib, with the furling gear drum secured to
it (the top of the furling gear drum has a hole in it through which the furling line is
knotted) to the stemhead casting.
The pair of link platers which connect the narrow slot in the bottom of the
spindle of the drum to the stemhead casting are important to allow sufficient
freedom of movement. They should just reach without bending the mast
forwards. If ii is not right, lower the mast and adjust the length at the head of the
jib. Set up the shrouds by passing several turns of the lanyards through the U-
bolt fairleads which are fitted on the side benches and finish with two or three
half-hitches (Fig. 15). Set them up before securing the jib tack, so that they pull
the mast evenly ah about a ¼ in. from the thwart. Finally heave down on the jib
luff and secure to the stem head, thus tightening the shrouds and leaving the
mast with about two degrees aft rake.
Roll up the jib by hand, passing the furling line round and round as you do
so. With the jib fully rolled up pass the line a couple of times round the drum and
then lead it through the hole in the guide and aft along the gunwale capping to
the cleat on the port side. Middle the jib sheet and make it fast to the jib clew. A
good way to secure it is by means of the double overhand knot as explained in
Fig. 5. Lead the sheets aft outside the shrouds through the fairleads on the side
benches and either put a knot in each end or tie the two ends together. To set
the jib it is only necessary to release the furling line and pull on one of the
sheets. The furling line will he wound up on the drum as the sail unrolls.
The mainsail has to be lashed to its yard and the mizzen to its mast. The
method is the same tor both. First secure the lower cornier (in the case of the
mainsail, the throat cringle to the pin at the lower end of the yard) and stretch the
sail along the spar. Tension the top lanyard until the sail shows slight creasing
parallel to the spar and secure the peak. Then lace to the spar with the marlin
hitch (Fig.11). but not too tightly. The lacing is only to stop it from bowing away
and should be slack enough to permit some movement of the sail relative to the
spar.
Step the mizzen mast and ship the bumpkin through the transom board.
The mizzen sheet is secured to the clew by means of a bowline or round turn
and two half-hitches, passed through the bullseye on the bumpkin and back
through the small hole in the transom board to the clam cleat on the after deck.
The main halyard is secured tu the yard by a clove hitch immediately below
the small triangular chocks which stop it from slipping upwards. (Fig. 2).
One set of parall beads is then used to retain the galvanised steel jaws to
the mast and another set to hold the yard upright against the mast (Fig. 14). This
12

second set is conveniently secured to the turns of the clove hitch which holds the
halyard so that the yard lies an inch or two back from the mast.
Further paralls are used to stop the luff from bowing away from the mast
(Fig. 6). It is important that they are adjusted in length to hold the luff and head in
a fair continuous line and that they do not hold the luff too tightly to the mast.
Paralls are made up by threading the ‘beads“ on to light line with an
overhand knot between each and a retaining knot at the ends. To secure the gaff
jaws to the mast it is sufficient to use two beads, while where the parall goes
right round the mast four beads are necessary (Fig. 3).
Hoist the mainsail right up and secure the halyard to a belaying pin. Then
pass the tack downhaul (which is a single length of line about 4ft. long) up
through one hole in the mast thwart, the end knotted under the thwart, through
the tack cringle and down through the other hole (Fig. 12). It should be tensioned
according to wind strength and secured to the other belaying pin. In light winds
the tension should be sufficient to cause just a suspicion of vertical creasing
down the luff of the sail, while in fresh winds it should be increased to cause very
marked folds in the region of the luff where the sail is head to wind. These folds
should vanish when the sail is sheeted home and full of wind.
Reeve off the double-ended mainsheet (Fig.17), leaving roughly equal
amounts of surplus line on each side. The system permits the sheet to be
cleated in settled weather but leaves the helmsman with freedom to jerk one end
free and release the sheet instantly if a sudden puff demands it. While sailing it
sometimes happens that all the letting out is done on one tack and all the pulling
in from the other side, leading to all the spare line accumulating an one side. If
this happens the first opportunity should be taken to equalise matters.
13

OPEN LONGBOAT
Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is in the after
locker. Get rid of any water present and make sure the bung is screwed tightly
home. If an outboard motor is fitted, check that it is centred on its mount and that
the securing clamps are done up tightly. If pushing the boat off a trailer, secure a
rope to the mooring cleat and hold on to it!
Rigging tor Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most
conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while afloat
if necessary. Before stepping the main mast make sure that the shrouds (side
stays) are attached to the mast band and lie straight down the mast. The length
of forestay at the head of the roller jib spar should be secured to the mast band
by means of the two multi-hole adjusting plates. Try about the middle of the
adjustment first and arrive at the correct pair of holes by trial and error.
14
Fig. 7.: The rigged Longboat showing the principal parts
MIZZEN
DRASCOMBE OPEN LONGBOAT
PEAK
LUFF
MAINSAIL
(GUNTER LUG)
HEAD
PARALLS
THROAT
GAFF (YARD)
ADJUSTER
TACK
FOOT
CLEW
MAINSHEET
REEF CRINGLES
REEF POINTS
BUMPKIN
CENTREPLATE
JIB SHEET
JAWS
FOOT
LEACH
TACK
LUFF
GENOA JIB
ALLOY ROLLER
PUMP
STANDARD RUDDER
LEACH
SHROUD

To step the mast have it lying in the boat with its heel under the mast thwart
and secure one end of the main halyard to the mooring cleat. Lift the mast, insert
the heel in its step and raise until it fits into the half-round notch in the thwart.
Take up the slack in the halyard and secure it to a belaying pin. The mast is now
secured while you offer up the forestay with the roller spar on it, to the stemhead
casting. It should just reach without bending the mast forwards. If it is not right
lower the mast and adjust the length at the head of the stay. Set up the shrouds
by passing several turns of the lanyards through the U-bolt fairleads (which are
fitted on the side benches) and finish with two or three halt-hitches (Fig. 15). Set
them up before securing the forestay, so that they pull the mast evenly aft about
a ¼ in. from the thwart. Finally heave down on the roller jib spar and secure the
bottom of the forestay to the after hole in the stem head, thus tightening the
shrouds and leaving the mast with about two degrees aft rake.
Shackle the head of the jib to the light halyard in the luff spar and hoist it up
the groove until the tack can be secured by means of the split pin just above the
drum. Tighten the halyard and secure it in the cleat before passing the tail of it
down through the hole in the drum and out through the other hole to its working
position. Secure the short length of line which stops the unit from turning to the
foremost eye inside the gunwale. Roll up the sail by hand, passing all the free
line round and round as you do so. With the jib rolled up, take two or three turns
round the drum before leading the line through the guide and aft along the
gunwale where it is secured on a cleat.
Middle the jib sheet and make it fast to the jib clew. A convenient way of
doing this is by the use of a double overhand knot (Fig. 5). Lead the sheets aft
outside the shrouds through the adjustable fairleads on the side benches and
either put a knot in each end or tie the two ends together. To set the jib it is only
necessary to release the furling line and pull on one of the sheets. The furling
line will be wound up on the drum as the sail unrolls.
The mainsail has to be lashed to its yard and the mizzen to its mast. The
method is the same for both. First secure the lower corner (in the case of the
mainsail, the throat cringle to the pin at the lower end of the yard) and stretch the
sail along the spar. Tension the top lanyard until the sail shows slight creasing
parallel to the spar and secure the peak. Then lace to the spar with the marlin
hitch (Fig. 11) but not too tightly. The lacing is only to stop it from bowing away
and should be slack enough to permit some movement of the sail relative to the
spar.
Step the mizzen mast and ship the bumpkin through the transom board.
The mizzen sheet is secured to the clew by means of a bowline or round turn
and two half-hitches, passed through the bullseye on the bumpkin and back
through the small hole in the transom board to the clam cleat on the after deck.
The main halyard is secured to the yard by a clove hitch (Fig. 2)
immediately below the small triangular chocks which stop it from slipping
upwards. One set of parall beads is then used to retain the galvanised steel jaws
to the mast and another set to hold the yard upright against the mast (Fig. 14).
This second set is conveniently secured to the turns of the clove hitch which
holds the halyard so that yard lies an inch or two back from the mast.
15

Further paralls are used to stop the luff from bowing away from the mast
(Fig. 7). It is important that they are adjusted in length to hold the luff and head in
a fair continuous line and that they do not hold the luff too tightly to the mast.
Paralls are made up by threading the ‘beads“ on to tight line with an
overhand knot between each and a retaining knot at the ends. To secure the gaff
jaws to the mast it is sufficient to use two beads, while where the parall goes
right round the mast four beads are necessary (Fig. 3)
Hoist the mainsail right up and secure the halyard to a belaying pin. Then
pass the tack downhaul (which is a single length of line about 4ft. long) up
through one hole in the mast thwart, knotting the end under the thwart, through
the tack cringle and down through the other hole (Fig. 12). It should be tensioned
according to wind strength and secured to the other belaying pin. In light winds
the tension should be sufficient to cause just a suspicion of vertical creasing
down the luff of the sail, while in fresh winds it should be increased to cause very
marked folds in the region of the luff where the sail is head to wind. These folds
should vanish when the sail is sheeted home and full of wind.
Reeve oh the double-ended mainsheet as shown (Fig. 17). leaving roughly
equal amounts oh surplus line on each side. The system permits the sheet to be
cleated in settled weather but leaves the helmsman with freedom to jerk one end
free and release the sheet instantly if a sudden puff demands it. While sailing it
sometimes happens that all the letting out is done on one tack and all the pulling
in from the other side, leading to all the spare line accumulating an one side. If
this happens the first opportunity should be taken to equalise matters.
The bearing-out spar may be used to keep the mainsail flat when reaching
or running before the wind. The thin end is slipped into the pocket at the clew
and the jaws set on the mast as high as is necessary to give the desired
curvature to the sail. It is shipped on the windward side and a length of line made
fast on the mast thwart prevents it from riding up the mast.
16

COASTER
Preparing to Launch. No drainage bung is fitted. If you have an outboard
motor in the well check that it is centred on its mount and that the screw clamps
are done up tightly. When pushing the boat off a trailer, secure a rope to the
mooring cleat and hold on to it!
Rigging for Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most
conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while
afloat if necessary. Before stepping the main mast make sure that the shrouds
(side stays) are attached to the mast band and lie straight down the mast. The
length of forestay at the head of the roller jib spar should be secured to the mast
band by means of the two multi-hole adjusting plates. Try about the middle of the
adjustment first and arrive at the correct pair of holes by trial and error.
17
Fig. 8.: The rigged Coaster showing the principal parts
MIZZEN
DRASCOMBE COASTER
PEAK
LUFF
MAINSAIL
(GUNTER LUG)
HEAD
PARALLS
THROAT
GAFF (YARD)
ADJUSTER
TACK
FOOT
CLEW
MAINSHEET
REEF CRINGLE
REEF POINTS
BUMPKIN
CENTREPLATE
JIB SHEET
MOTOR MOUNT
JAWS
FOOT
LEACH
TACK
LUFF
GENOA JIB
ALLOY ROLLER
TWIN PUMPS
KICK-UP RUDDER
LEACH
MASTBAND
W.C.
FOAM BUOYANCY
TILLER

To step the mast have it lying across the cabin top and cockpit with the heel
adjacent to the tabernacle. It helps to have someone in the cockpit to hold the
head up until the spar is roughly horizontal but this is not essential. Making sure
that the forestay is on top, line up the two black bullseyes on the aft face with the
holes in the tabernacle and secure with the pin right through. Raise the mast to
vertical and attach the forestay fitting at the lower end of the roller jib spar to the
stemhead. Take a turn or two of the lanyards from the shrouds through the U-
bolt fairleads which are fitted on the side decks, to avoid excessive side strain on
the tabernacle. If the mast sits well in its tabernacle and leans aft with about two
degrees of rake, the forestay is correctly adjusted. If it is too upright or has too
much rake, lower it and change the length of the stay by the adjuster at the
masthead. Finally set up the shrouds by taking several turns of the lanyards
through the fairleads and securing with half-hitches (Fig.15). The second shroud
to be set up should need its lanyard tightening as hard as you can pull in order to
pull the mast up straight.
Shackle the head of the jib to the light halyard in the luff spar and hoist it up
the groove until the tack can be secured by means of the split pin just above the
drum. Tighten the halyard and secure it in the cleat before passing the tail of it
down through the hole in the drum and out through the other hole to its working
position. Secure the short length of line which stops the unit from turning to the
foremost eye inside the gunwale. Roll up the sail by hand, passing all the free
line round and round as you do so. With the jib rolled right up, take two or three
turns round the drum before leading the line through the guide, aft along the
gunwale and across to its cleat on the aft face of the bridge deck.
Middle the jib sheet and make it fast to the jib clew. A double overhand knot
(Fig.5) is a convenient way to do this. Lead the sheets aft outside the shrouds
through the adjustable fairleads on the side bench and either put a knot in each
end or tie the two ends together. To set the jib it is only necessary to release the
furling line and pull on one of the sheets. The furling line will be wound up on the
drum as the sail unrolls.
The mainsail has to be lashed to its yard and the mizzen to its mast. The
method is the same for both. First secure the lower corner (in the case of the
mainsail, the throat cringle to the pin at the lower end of the yard) and stretch the
sail along the spar. Tension the top lanyard until the sail shows slight creasing
parallel to the spar and secure the peak. Then lace to the spar with the marlin
hitch (Fig.11) but not too tightly. The lacing is only to stop it from bowing away
and should be slack enough to permit some movement of the sail relative to the
spar.
Step the mizzen mast and ship the bumpkin through the transom board.
The mizzen sheet is secured to the clew by means of a bowline or round turn
and two half-hitches, passed through the bullseye on the bumpkin and back
through the small hole in the transom board to the clam cleat on the after deck.
The main halyard is secured to the yard by a clove hitch immediately below
the small triangular chocks which stop it from slipping upwards. One set of parall
beads is then used to retain the galvanised steel jaws to the mast and another
set to hold the yard upright against the mast (Fig. 14). This second set is
18

conveniently secured to the turns of the clove hitch witch holds the halyard so
that the yard lies an inch or two back from the mast.
Further paralls are used to stop the luff from bowing away from the mast
(Fig. 8). It is important that they are adjusted in length to hold the luff and head in
a fair continuous line and that they do not hold the luff too tightly to the mast.
Paralls should pass outside the fall of the main halyard.
Paralls are made up by threading the “beads“ on to light line with an
overhand knot between each with a retaining knot at the ends. To secure the
gaff jaws to the mast it is sufficient to use two beads, while where the parall goes
right round the mast four beads are necessary.
Lead the tail of the main halyard down the fore side of the mast, through the
sheave in the heel of the mast and aft to a cleat on the after edge of the cabin
top. Secure the light line at the tack of the mainsail to the bullseye on the mast
just above the tabernacle and hoist the mainsail. The tension in the halyard must
be varied to suit the strength of the wind. In light breezes there should be just a
suspicion of vertical creasing down the luff of the sail, while for strong winds the
tension should be increased to cause pronounced folds down the luff when the
sail is head to wind, These folds vanish when the sail is sheeted home and full of
wind. The sail should have plenty of fullness for light winds and for reaching but
be sheeted hard enough to keep it fairly flat for close-hauled sailing and flatter
still in fresh winds.
Reeve off the mainsheet as shown (Fig. 8), the fall passing through the
bullseye on the rudder stock to a cleat on the tiller. The system permits the sheet
to be cleated in settled weather but leaves the helmsman free to jerk the end
free to release the sheet instantly if a sudden puff demands it.
Oars are best stowed one on each side with the looms right in the bows and
the blade aft. The twin hatches each have a securing line to prevent any
possibility of their being lost overboard. The lines are led forward to cleats in the
cabin where they may be secured.
19

DRIFTER
Rigging for Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most
conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while
afloat if necessary. Before stepping the main mast make sure that the shrouds
(side stays) are attached to the mast band and lie straight down the mast. The
length of forestay at the head of the roller jib spar should be secured to the mast
band by means of the two multihole adjusting plates. Try about the middle of the
adjustment first and arrive at the correct pair of holes by trial and error.
To step the mast have it lying across the cabin top and cockpit with the
heel adjacent to the tabernacle, It helps to have someone in the cockpit to hold
the head up until the spar is roughly horizontal but this is not essential. Making
sure that the forestay is on top, put the heel in the tabernacle and secure it with
20
Fig. .: The rigged Drifter showing the principal parts
MIZZEN
DRASCOMBE DRIFTER
PEAK
LUFF
MAINSAIL
(GUNTER LUG)
HEAD
THROAT
GAFF (YARD)
ADJUSTER
TACK
FOOT
CLEW
MAINSHEET
REEF CRINGLE
REEF POINTS
BUMPKIN
JIB SHEET WINCH
PUMP
JAWS
FOOT
LEACH
TACK
LUFF
GENOA JIB
GALLEY
FUEL T'K
LEACH
PARALLS
W.C.
COMPASS
PEAK
TENT
TABERNACLE
ALLOY ROLLER
CANOPY
BUNK