Intec CA10 User manual

2
ATTENTION
All text, photos, graphics, artwork and other material in the Instruction Manual are
copyrighted by Intec America Corporation and may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or
redistributed without permission.
Intec America Corporation, Inc. (Intec) text, photo, graphic, audio and/or video
material shall not be published, broadcast, rewritten for broadcast or publication or
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portion thereof may be stored in a computer except for personal and non-commercial use.
Any unauthorized use of this material by anyone other than the original owner of the Intec-
America Copper Ionic Technology shall be prosecuted under applicable Federal Laws.
© 2019 Intec America Corporation

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section Title
1. Value and Savings of the Copper Ionization Program…..…………………..
2. Electronic Systems and Installation……………………………………...….
3. Start-Up Procedure…………………………………………………………..
4. Pool Maintenance Is Simple…………………………………………………
5. Testing Your Pool’s Water…………………………………………………..
6. Clarity of Pool Water…………………………………………………......…
7. Tips to perfection…………………………..................................................
8. Stains and Scale…………………………………………………………...…
9. Trashed Pool Treatment………………….....................................................
10. Charts……………………………………………………………………...…
11. Warranty Agreement…………………………………………………...…....
Page #
4
5
12
13
14
18
20
21
22
23
26

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SECTION 1.0 VALUE AND SAVINGS OF COPPER IONIZATION PROGRAM
Welcome--
You have purchased a chemical free water treatment system that eliminates the need for
chlorine, a system that is state of the art. We are committed to make servicing your pool and
swimming more pleasurable, less time consuming, and more economical to maintain. As a
bonus, you’ll find a chlorine-free pool healthier for you, your family and friends.
Before installing the Ionizer, read these instructions from cover to cover. Write down
any questions you have. If, after reading the entire booklet, you still have questions; PLEASE
CALL US –TOLL FREE. You will be glad you did.
A. Benefits of Adding Copper to Your Lifestyle
The following lists the health benefits mentioned in the article in the February 1989
issue of Better Nutrition Magazine written by contributing Editor Frank Murry.
1. Nerves will fray without copper.
2. Copper strengthens blood vessel walls.
3. Copper is important to energy metabolism.
4. Copper shares anti-inflammatory powers with zinc, which is important in healing.
5. Taste perception may be influenced by copper.
6. Copper helps prevent anemia, bone and skeletal defects, a degeneration of the nervous
system, defects in the color and structure of hair, reproductive problems and abnormal
cardiovascular problems.
7. Copper is the key mineral of collagen and elastin which are essential for tendons and
blood vessels. A diet totally devoid of copper would cause hemorrhaging severe enough
to end life.
8. Women who are deficient in copper and iron are more likely to have problems with
sleeping.
9. Copper is a potent antiulcer agent.
10. Without copper, skin becomes fragile, will break easily, and heal slowly.
11. Without copper, bones can fracture
12. Without copper, blood vessels can leak or burst.
13. Copper deficiency can elevate blood pressure.
14. Copper is important to the functionality of the immune system
15. Copper is necessary to convert beta carotene to vitamin A.

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16. A copper-deficient diet may cause defective transport of vitamin A from liver to blood.
17. Copper also may play an important role in cancer prevention.
18. Copper is one of the more important antioxidants in the blood stream.
19. Copper in the form of ceruloplasmin keeps iron from rusting within the blood.
B. Copper Ionization is the only way to have healthy water in your pool.
C. You will save 80-85% on your water care expenditures and 80-85% on your water care
time. No more chlorine, shock, algaecides, or stabilizer!
D. Pool liners, paint, vinyl, and plaster last three to five times longer, saving thousands of
dollars.
E. Copper ions are non-irritating to skin and will not burn your eyes.
F. Copper ions are many times more effective, faster acting, and longer lasting than chlorine
in killing algae and bacteria.
SECTION 2.0 ELECTRONIC SYSTEMS AND INSTALLATION
The copper electrode is the only part of the system that has to be installed. It is installed after
the pool filter and before the pool heater (if you have a heater).
Figure 1
Ionizer
Water
Flow
Top View Of
Plumbing
Copper
Electrode
Water Flow
From
Pool Pump
Pool Filter
9.5 inches
Heater
If
Applicable
Water Flow
Back
To Pool

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Below is a picture of the electrode:
Figure 2
2.1 Installation of the Electrode
2.1.1 1.5” Plumbing
You will need to use a 2” to 1.5” reducer bushing (not provided). Take a hacksaw and
cut approximately 10 inches out of the pipe after the filter. The electrode can be installed
horizontally or vertically. Take the male half of each male union, clean them and then cement
them on the bushing/reducer provided (Figure 3). Then, clean and cement the above assembly
component onto to the remaining pipe ends after your pool filter (Figure 4). Slide in the
electrode and hand tighten the female union to the male union.
Female
Union
Male
Union
Bushing
Reducer

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Figure 3
Figure 4
2.1.2 2” Plumbing
Take a hacksaw and cut approximately 9.5 inches out of the pipe after the filter (11.5
inches for the commercial double electrode). The electrode can be installed horizontally or
vertically. Take the male half of each union and clean and cement them on the remaining
pipe ends. Slide in the electrode and hand tighten the female union to the male union.
2.2 Connecting the Electronics Unit to the Electrode
Locate the male spades found at each side of the electrode (Page 8; Figure 3). Connect
the female plug located at the end of the wire from the electronics unit and it to the male spade
located on the electrode (Figure 4). Attach the unconnected wire for the electronics unit to the
other side of the electrode (Figure 5). It does not matter which wire plugs into which side of
the electrode. The polarity will alternate the current between the two copper bars on the
electrode. Figure 6 illustrates the proper connection for the electronics unit to the electrode.
Bushing
Reducer
Assembly
Component
Female
Union
Male
Union

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Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Question: How does copper get into my pool/spa?
Answer: Your Intec Ionizer will apply a current to the copper electrode and ionize the water. The electrode
will slowly release these copper ions into the water stream. The ions are extremely small and can not be seen
even with a powerful microscope. The ions are so small that they can easily pass though the cell membrane of
algae or bacteria and disrupt their enzyme structure and kill them.

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2.3 Electronic System Overview and Specifications
Your new pool ionization system has gone through two separate inspections: (a) by
manufacturing, and then, (b) by the shipping department. If you notice any defects on your
system, please contact our Quality Assurance Department immediately.
Your unit is powered by 110-220 volts (50-60 hertz) and can be plugged into any
standard electrical socket. New modern pool system controller have auxiliary plugs/ports that
can be programmed to the ionizer turn on and off. Copper ions remain active for a long period
of time and you should not have to run the system continuously. These control units may also
be plugged into a timer (available at hardware stores) for maintaining a copper residual. The
use of an extension cord will not affect this system.
If the unit will be connected to an automated controller, please refer to the instruction
manual of that unit and these can be connected to an auxiliary port. Manyof the modern control
panels will even allow for remote access and ability to manipulate run-time programs.
The electronic controllers must be mounted upright on a wall and preferably at a
location underneath the eve of the roof. At no time, should the controller be left laying on a
surface facing upwards. By doing so, the controller could be inundated with water and
void warranties.

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CA10 and CV50
Item #
Description
1
2
3
4
5
Power Indicator Light. It will remain a solid red color when power is running
to the unit.
Polarity Light –Cycles on and off every 10 minutes, indicating a reversal of
polarity and cleaning cycle.
Potentiometer Switch –Rotate clockwise to increase copper output and
counter clockwise to decrease copper output.
Power Switch –Will allow the user to turn off the system when it is not in
use.
Electrode Leads –Attaches to the copper electrode (not shown in picture)
5
2
4
3
1

11

12
CV60
Item
#
Description
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
LED Display
Power ON Switch
Power OFF Switch
Control Status Indicators
Alert Indicator –Alarm codes change depending on application (listed below)
Polarity Light –Cycles on and off every 10 minutes, indicating a reversal of polarity
and cleaning cycle.
Attaches to the copper electrode (not shown in picture)
7
2
3
4
1
5
6

13

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Controller Description
Functionality
1. The CA10 and CV60 is rated for 2.0 amps. The CV50 is rated at 1.0 amp.
2. The CA10 is rated at 12 VDC. The CV50 and CV60 is rated at 24 VDC.
3. The allowable TDS (salinity) level may be different depending on the internal heating
at full load and feedback wave shape.
4. The output current may be reduced depending on the sensed internal enclosure
heating.
Operator interface
Display
The CV60D has a two digit seven-segment LED display. The segments are driven direct so a
limited set of alpha characters can be displayed in addition to numbers. The LEDs are .56”
character height high-efficiency. The CA10 and CV50 does not have an LED display.
The following is a list of displayed variables on the CV60:
1. Setpoint Amps –00 to 20
2. Cell Amps –0.0 to 2.0 (accuracy of +- 0.1 amps)
3. Cell Volts –1 to 24 (calculated)
4. Control Status & Alerts
a. A0 –Normal operation
b. E1 –Flow switch open
c. E2 –Cell connection problem (cell powered with no feedback)
d. E3 –Output reduced because of internal heating
5. Power-up Mode
a. P1 –Powers up off (default as shipped)
b. P2 –Powers up on
The displayed operating variables will be determined using a SEL panel pushbutton and
indicated by discrete SETPOINT, CURRENT, VOLTAGE and STATUS LEDs. The Power-
up Mode will be displayed when the DATA DOWN ARROW panel pushbutton is pressed
and held down when AC power is being applied.

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Setpoint Select
The setpoint on the CV60 will be adjusted using scroll up and scroll down panel pushbuttons
rather than a potentiometer found on the CV50. The DSP will maintain the setpoint value
during power down.
Power On & Off
Power on and off on the CV60 shall be selected via ON and OFF panel pushbuttons rather
than a power toggle switch found on the CV50. The control can automatically power up on if
the P2 option is selected through the Power-up Mode procedure described earlier.
Alert LED
The ALERT LED shall illuminate if any of the E1 to E3 conditions described earlier are
present.
Polarity LED
This LED has the same functionality on the CV50 and CV60 product. The polarity changes
after 10 minutes or when AC power is applied, but not via the ON and OFF buttons. This is a
self-cleaning cycle to keep the cathode and anode clean and reduce the potential of mineral
plating.

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SECTION 3.0 START-UP PROCEDURES FOR POOL AND IONIZATION
UNITS
3.1 Start-up of Pool
This order of instructions should be followed precisely to properly ionize your pool!
1. Clean out all debris and clean out skimmers (Please see Section 9.0 if applicable)
2. Adjust pH between 7.0 –7.4
3. Run the Ionizer continuously until the copper level reaches 0.5 ppm. REMEMBER: Your
pool pump must be running and water must be flowing over the copper bars when the Ionizer
is on.
4. Treat water clarity
Treat Calcium Hardness
3.2 Initial Start-up for the CV40 (discontinued)
Turn your power switch on and run your system for 24 hours a day until you achieve a 0.5
ppm of copper. The conductivityof your water will dictate the copper output of your electronics
system. Conductivity is created by TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) which are mostly comprised
of sodium, potassium, and chlorides. If your pool water is too low in these minerals, you may
have to run your system over a longer period of time in order to get your copper level up in your
pool. If your water has a high level of TDS, then your circuit breaker fuse located underneath
the unit may trip. NOTE: If installed outside, it is best to find a location that would avoid
long-term exposure to the elements such as under an awning.
If your CV40 power and/or polarity light flashes / blinks rapidly, this may be a sign of
conductive water. The unit will automatically shut itself off and then try to come back on after
the unit cools down. If this continues, please turn the unit off and call Intec at 800-896-1759
and they will provide you a resistor at no charge.
Detach any one single line that is attached to the electrode male spade
(Figure 3). It does not matter which line is detached. Attach the resistor
(Shown to the left) to the male spade of the electrode. You will notice that
the resistor has two different types of plugs. Only one wire from the Resistor
will attach to the electrode. Attach the other wire of the Resistor to the wire
you previously detached from the electrode that runs to the electronics unit.
Resistor

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After you have achieved a copper level of 0.5 ppm, you may simply unplug your unit or
turn your control unit off. You only need to run the system again when your copper level falls
below 0.4 ppm.
3.3 Initial Start-up for the CA10 or CV50
Similar to the above. However, these unit are equipped with a potentiometer to control the
copper output. Turn the dial counter-clockwise to the lowest setting, and turn the unit on with
water flowing through the copper electrode chamber. As the water is flowing through, turn the
dial clockwise until it is on full power. If the power light flashes/blinks sporadically, turn
the knob again counter-clockwise until the power light is solid and not flashing. This is
the maximum output for your pool water conductivity.
3.4 Initial Start-up for the CV60
Similar to the above. However, this unit is equipped with a push buttons to control the
copper output. Turn the unit on with water flowing through the copper electrode chamber. As
the water is flowing through, pay attention to the LED lights to the right of the display. If the
any light flashes/blinks sporadically, push the down arrow one click at a time until the
power light is solid and not flashing. This is the maximum output for your pool water
conductivity.
SECTION 4.0 POOL MAINTENANCE
Copper ions do not evaporate or dissipate. If you keep your pool, skimmers, filter, and
the weir basket in the front of the pump clean, the copper ions will remain in the pool. It is the
pH level in your pool/spa that is the most IMPORTANT.
If you will keep your pH, alkalinity, copper, and calcium hardness in the recommended
ranges, plus the regular use of your filtration aid, your pool water will always be beautiful,
clear, light blue, and healthy. That’s all there is to it. Now, isn’t that simple?
SECTION 5.0 TESTING YOUR POOL’S WATER
Your system contains two test kits, the comprehensive test kit (in the hard blue
container) and the copper test kit (in the clear container). The instructions for each test are in

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each test kit. Read these instructions carefully. Then do the test. Below are the only tests that
you will need to maintain your pool.
pH
Alkalinity
Acid Demand
Calcium Hardness
Copper
*NOTES –
A. These Test Kits are made exclusively for Intec. Other tests are shown on the chart but
those tests are not necessary to maintain an ionized pool.
B. Anytime you draw a water sample from the pool for testing, make sure you get that
sample 12 inches below the pool surface.
C. If ever you have a problem, you may call Intec at 800-896-1759 for assistance. Please
test your pool water for the aforementioned parameters before calling Intec. These
tests results are needed to diagnose and help you solve your problem. Without them,
we will not be able to accurately assist you.
pH Concentrations Scale
Concentrations of Hydrogen
ions (H+) compared to distilled water
pH
Solutions that typically have
this pH
10,000,000
pH = 0
battery acid
1,000,000
pH = 1
stomach acid
100,000
pH = 2
lemon juice, vinegar
10,000
pH = 3
grapefruit, orange juice, soda
1,000
pH = 4
tomato juice, acid rain
100
pH = 5
black coffee, rain water
10
pH = 6
urine, saliva
1
pH = 7
"pure" water
1/10
pH = 8
sea water
1/100
pH = 9
baking soda
1/1,000
pH = 10
milk of magnesia
1/10,000
pH = 11
Ammonia
1/100,000
pH =12
soapy water, bleach
1/1,000,000
pH = 13
oven cleaner
1/10,000,000
pH = 14
liquid drain cleaner
Neutral pH
Acidic pH
Basic/Alkaline pH

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5.1 Test the pH of your pool water first.
If it needs treatment, then treat it before proceeding to the other tests.
If you leave your pH higher than 7.4 for an extended period of time, then dissolved
minerals and organics inside of the water molecules (which were previously invisible) can
precipitate from solution and become suspended (free floating). This may discolor your water
and scale your pool. If the pH is allowed to go below 7 for an extended period of time, the
impurities inside the water molecule will discolor or stain your pool. This happens because of
the acidic conditions of your water. Most pool owners will call every discoloration a stain.
pH is treated with muriatic acid to bring it lower and baking soda to bring it higher.
The muriatic acid will burn up some of the alkaline material, thus reducing your pH. The baking
soda will neutralize the acidity, increase the alkalinity, and thus increase your pH. Both
chemicals are self-sacrificing and will reach a point of equilibrium, neutralize themselves, and
then no longer exist in your pool water in its original form. Therefore, it can be said that you
have a chemical-free pool. Muriatic acid is available in one-gallon bottles at Lowes, The Home
Depot, and most local hardware stores. Baking soda is available at Wal-Mart, Target, Dollar
General, and your local grocery store.
5.1.2 Recommended Testing and pH Range
The ideal for pH is 7.2 (7.0 to 7.4 is OK). At first, test on Monday, Wednesday, and
Friday. At some point in time, you may find you never have to treat the pH on Wednesday for
example. If this is the case, then you can just test on Monday and Friday.
You have an acid demand test in the Comprehensive Test Kit (blue box) that will
determine for you the exact amount of muriatic acid needed to bring the pH down from when
it is too high. Please see the “Acid Demand Chart” (Table 1) in Chapter 10. You will need to
know your pool size in gallons first (See “Table 3” for calculations).
NOTE: It is important to get your pool’s pH in its proper range BEFORE starting to
test for copper.
5.2 Total Alkalinity (TA) and Treatment
If pH, as stated earlier, is the most important aspect of pool water care, then alkalinity
is even more important because it controls the pH. The Total Alkalinity Test is your “crystal

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ball” relating to the future rise in your pool water’s pH. The higher the alkalinity, the faster
your pH will rise. Example: if your pH is 7.0 and your alkalinity is over 140ppm, then your
pH will twice as fast as it would if the TA were 70ppm.
5.2.1 The ideal for TA is 50 to 80 ppm (parts per million)
Test as needed - You will learn how long to wait between treatments by testing and
finding the TA is still in the proper range. These numbers can vary in some regions.
If your TA gets below 50ppm, then your pH will bounce. This means that you do not
have enough alkalinity in your pool to maintain a constant pH. The pH may test differently in
different parts of the pool
When your TA reduces to 50ppm add one pound of baking soda for each 5,000 gallons
in your pool. Baking soda is available at Wal-Mart in all sizes.
5.3 Copper Ions and Treatment
The ideal level for copper ions is 0.5ppm. Levels in the range of 0.4 to 0.6 are
acceptable. Once the copper has reached the desired level of 0.5ppm, you only have to run the
electronic unit about one time a week during the day. Test as needed.
NOTE: When you test your pool’s water for copper ions, you look down through the top of the
test tube as you hold it ½ inch above the white area of the color comparator.
The first time you test, wait for three (3) minutes before you compare the test tube to
the color chart provided with the kit. Then wait for seven (7) additional minutes and compare
to the color chart once again. If you get a higher reading, then use a waiting time of ten (10)
minutes for future pool water tests.
NOTE: Make sure your pH is in the 7.0 –7.4 range. If your pH is higher, your copper ion test
will not be accurate. It will not show all the copper ions you have in your water.
5.4 Calcium Hardness(CH) and Treatment
The purer the water molecule is, the more aggressively it tries to contaminate itself.
Calcium chloride reduces the aggressiveness of the water molecule, which in turn, will make
the water easier to treat and helping prevent damage to the pool’s surface. One could consider
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