Jeds Peds CSound Bass Fuzz User manual

www.Jedspeds.co.uk
CS Bass Fuzz PCB Kit
Please read the guide in full before starting your build. If it is blatantly obvious you haven’t read it
and contact us for help then don’t be surprised if we tell you to read the guide again… harsh I know.
Parts List
R1
1m
R12
100r
C1
220N
C12
10N
FUZZ
100KA
R2
33k
R13
8k2
C2
1N
C13
100N
TONE
100KB
R3
100k
R14
100k
C3
220N
C14
220N
VOL
100KA
R4
470k
R15
470k
C4
47UF
C15
22UF
R5
15k
R16
15k
C5
220N
R6
100r
R17
100r
C6
1N
Q1,2,3
2N5088
R7
1k
R18
33k
C7
220N
Q4
MPF102
R8
8k2
R19
33K
C8
220N
R9
100k
R20
33K
C9
1N
T1
5K
R10
10k
R21
1M
C10
220N
T2
100K
R11
470k
R22
1K
C11
4N7
Kit Specific Build Notes
•T1 is used to set the bias of the boost transistor. I have added a bias pad onto the pcb to
enable you to measure this. Between 5 and 6v is recommended. You will need a multi meter
to measure this voltage.
•T2 is the boost level. This is totally up to you to decide. If you are inclined to do so, you could
swap this for a pot.

Schematic for Reference
General Build Instruction
The first thing you must do is identify your parts from the pack. As a rule, I build from small to big –
therefore step one will be to identify the resistors and any diodes inside your kit.
Each kit has a parts list at the top of the guide. So as an example, if R1 is listed as a 1M resistor then
you dig out a 1M from the pack and place it on the PCB in the R1 spot. It’s your call if you put one in
and solder or put a few in or even put them all in and solder. I’ll let you decide.
The front of the PCB is the side with the white writing on (the silkscreen)
You then need to follow the same process for all the other parts included. Working in height order
mount the rest of the parts to the PCB ensuring that you solder them in place well as you go.
Some parts are quite heat sensitive so you must be careful when soldering them. Diodes, chips and
transistors mainly. They can easily burn out by overheating.
I would then add the offboard wires, starting with nice long ones leaving them to be trimmed to
length later. Finally, I add the pots either mounting them to the board or wiring them into place.
Useful links
Resistor calculator
Pots
Some of our PCBs are now designed to use right angled mount pcb potentiometers. They mount
from the rear as indicated by the pcb. We will provide right angled pots as stocked, this means that
Pin Numbers for the pots. Snap the little metal tag
off before trying to put it through the holes in the
box.

you may receive a “normal” pot on occasion and you will have to wire it. It’s not that inconvenient
now is it.
The other options for pots are that they are wired into place or the PCB hangs from them.
Hooking up the Jacks
Our kits come with mono jacks. They have two connections, a positive or the tip connection. And a
negative, or sleeve connection.
The tip connections will connect to the 3PDT as shown later in the guide unless there are
instructions otherwise.
The sleeve connections are ground points, all grounds throughout a build must connect. The Jack
socket will then connect to the enclosure and ground the case.
Power Socket

TEST THE BOARD
When you get to the stage with the board and pots wired you need to test the board before you add
the foot switch. Firstly, don’t put it in the box – I see people building inside a tiny enclosure and I
wonder why. Some PCB’s are tight enough as it is without reducing your workspace to 6cm wide!
Connect Input pad to TIP of Input jack. Same with output. Then connect the power to the 9v pad.
Connect all grounds together (board, jack sleeves and 9v) If your board is working at this point then
you can start work on the switch! If not…get double checking! If you email asking me why your pedal
isn’t working the first thing I will ask is… “did it work without the switch?”, so make sure you follow
this step.
If your PCB is working you are ready to connect the board to the footswitch! Follow the next stages
meticulously and all being well by the end of it you will have a lovely finished pedal!
The next step involves undoing the tip wires from the PCB as they will now move to the 3PDT.
If its not working at this stage then you need to find out why. Do not continue beyond this point until
you get it working. Adding a footswitch will not magically make a circuit work.
Troubleshooting is a necessary evil at times.
The Footswitch.
Have a look at the footswitch. It has 9 pins. The orientation of the switch is crucial. If you do it wrong
your switch will not work, you might ruin it and you will certainly have to un do it.

To help you a little further with ensuring the orientation of your switch is correct. To compare both
3PDT images you would have this…
Pin 1 –Empty
Pin 2 –Ground
Pin 3 –LED
Pin 4 –Pin 7
Pin 5 –Input Jack tip
Pin 6 –PCB Input
Pin 7 –Pin 4
Pin 8 –Output Jack Tip
Pin 9 –PCB Output
There are loads of ways to wire up the footswitch. I use this one, I always have. Its never let me
down and is easy to hook up.
Please make sure you
get the switch the
correct way!
The pins on the switch must run left to
right like this, so the top row of pins would
be 1, 4, and 7.
If you put it in with 1, 2, and 3 across the
top row you are wrong.

The 2k2 resistor can be any value up to 4k7. You will have a spare in the kit to use.
Good luck and happy soldering!
PCB Design Notes
1. All PCBs are designed by ourselves, and tested before sale.
2. Box caps are shown with a + polarity mark on the silk screen, this is irrelevant as the box
caps are non-polarised so can go either way.
3. Spare ground points may be provided on the PCB layout, use them if you wish but there is
no requirement to.