Parts Notes :
•All resistors are standard 1/4 watt.
•Caps - Electrolytic’s should be 5 mm Dia. x 11 mm or smaller, 100uF’s no bigger
than 6.3 mm Dia. x 11 mm L in order to fit in a 1590BB. For C16 and C24
tantalum caps are recommended but not necessary.
•D2 is for the Tape Speed indicator LED
•V-ADJ is a 2k trimpot. The size is based off the Bourns 3362 series
•Mouser P/N 652-3362R-1-202LF
•Tayda SKU: A-607
•SW1 is a rotary 4P3T switch - Alpha SR2612F-0403-18R0B-D8-N
•Small Bear SKU:0227
•Mouser P/N 105-SR2612F-43-21RN
•The shaft is slightly longer but it can be easily trimmed since it is
plastic.
•SW2 is a SPST momentary (normally open) footswitch
•Small Bear SKU:0206A
•Mammoth P/N: 4SFSSPST-M 43
•Tayda SKU: A-1091
•Potentiometers are standard length 16mm PCB mount, but solder lugs can be
used.
•Enclosure size
•This is designed to fit in a 1590BB but using a 125BB is highly
recommended."It gives just a hair more room to work without
sacrificing more pedalboard space."A 1790 would make it really EASY
and give more room to spread out the 3PDT and SPST footswitch.
•PT2399‘s
•With the nature of PT2399’s socketing is HIGHLY recommended. Not
all PT2399’s are created equal. Many exhibit higher noise and you’ll
also get some that “motorboat”. Since we aren’t fishing I recommend
buying a few from different suppliers and “demoing” which ones
sound best. The best way to do this is in EP-3 mode with IC3 empty.
Then you only need to swap out IC-2. When you find the best two
PT2399’s out of your batch use them in IC2 and IC3. Even with the
best PT2399’s you will experience some noise at certain settings of
delay time and/or repeats. You can increase the filtering but the delay
will sound more analog then tape.
