Step 2) Orient the plate on the cavity floor so as not to cover the entry to the tunnel for the hook-up
cable. The plate should be a snug fit between the cavity walls. Secure the plate to the cavity floor
with the 2 short non-magnetic self-tapping screws that are provided, while placing the end of the
Black wire with a Tag (provided) under the edge of the plate first (not the whole Tag). This black
wire is connected to a ground point in the control cavity and prevents electrical buzz noise. Lightly
tighten the screws (do not overtighten).
Should there not be an existing plate and the cavity is bigger than the plate, position it in
the middle and parallel with the cavity walls. With a sharp pointed tool such as a scriber,
make indentations in the exact middle of two of the countersunk holes. Drill 2.3mm (3/32”)
holes perpendicular the cavity floor to a depth of 11mm (7/16”). To prevent drilling too
deep and possibly out the back of the guitar wrap a small piece of masking tape around the
drill bit the same measurement from the tip of the drill. In the case of replacing an existing
plate go to step 3.
Should there not be an existing plate and the cavity is bigger than the plate position it in the
middle and parallel with the cavity walls. With a sharp pointed tool such as a scriber, make
indentations in the exact middle of two of the countersunk holes. Drill 2.3mm (3/32”) holes
perpendicular the cavity floor to a depth of 11mm (7/16”). To prevent drilling too deep and
possibly out the back of the guitar wrap a small piece of masking tape around the drill bit
the same measurement from the tip of the drill.
Perform the first part of Step 3 and do the same for the long mounting screws using a
2.5mm (7/64”) drill, or slightly larger. Remove the plate before drilling these two holes.
Compete Step 3.
Step 3) Make sure the screw holes in the foot of the pickup have been drilled to 2.5mm so the long
screws will pass through easily. Secure the two long screws in the shroud by sticking a piece of
masking tape over the heads of the screws. Remove the plastic washers from the long screws by
pulling them onto the threaded section and then unwind them as if they are threaded nuts. Hold the
shroud up-side-down to prevent the spacers falling off. Place the pickup into the shroud and
simultaneously guide both screws into the holes in the feet of the pickup. With the pickup pressed
into the shroud replace the plastic washers so the shroud is held closely to the pickup.
Step 4) If you have the ability and dexterity of an octopus the next part won’t be so bad, if you are
not related to an octopus ask someone to help you. Poke the end of the hook-up cable of the neck
pickup and the black ground wire into the blunt end of the Silicon Rubber tube with sufficient grip
that they can be pulled through the wiring tunnel. One of you holds the guitar with it’s neck in a
vertical position while the other person pokes the sharp end of the silicon rubber tube into the
tunnel so that it exits into the control cavity. Same person grabs and pulls the tube, cable and black
wire through the tunnel until the pickup is drawn near to it’s cavity. Same person carefully guides
the pickup into the cavity making sure the screws enter the eye of the cone springs. Hold the
pickup so it’s top surface is kept parallel with the guitar and then push the pickup onto the springs
and turn the two screws until the pickup is approximately in it’s final position. Pull the hook-up
cable into the control cavity until it goes taut. At this point your assistance can be relieved of duty
and the guitar can be placed face down to solder the hook-up cable to it’s destination points and the
black ground wire to a convenient ground point.
Step 5) repeat the procedure for the bridge pickup.
