Knuckleduster GUNFIGHTER'S BALL COWTOWN SALOON User manual

COWTOWN SALOON
INSTRUCTIONS

STOP! READ THIS FIRST!
1. Test fit all parts and make sure you know how everything goes together before gluing. If you are contem-
plating cutting a part to make it fit, please re-examine your assembly plan—you’ve probably misunder-
stood some aspect of the design. Parts have been tested, and should fit together in a fairly straightforward
manner without modification.
2. Most roofs are made to be removed. A few buildings have no floor (assumed dirt floor), so if you have a
base to glue it to, go ahead and make the roof removable. If you want it to be free-standing and sturdy,
glue the roof truss to the middle of the top of the side
walls and at least glue at least one roof panel in place.
3. Metal doors and windows are provided. They have inte-
rior woodwork; the interior and exterior pieces sand-
wich the wall between them. All metal parts require
priming to paint.
4. Use white glue for most assembly; if you use superglue
or a similar adhesive, be very careful not to let sticky
fingers damage the model!
5. Prime all parts with a good black hobby primer to pro-
tect the MDF and keep it from absorbing water-based
paints, which can cause swelling and warping of the
material.
6. You may wish to paint parts individually before assem-
bly; this works well for small parts that are hard to
paint neatly when glued in place.
7. To simulate weathered wood, dry brush layers over the
black primer. Start with medium brown, then a mus-
tard-brown, and a final dry-brushing of tan. For other
colors, the first coat over the black primer should be
one shade darker than the desired final color. Dry
brush a lighter shade in the middle of the area of color
to give it the look you see in the wargame magazines!
8. Experiment with your own assembly methods. The
models are dead simple to figure out, but if you need
help, contact Knuckleduster through our website,
www.knuckleduster.com.
WARNING! CHOKING HAZARD.
This kit contains small parts; it is not a toy and must be kept
out of reach of children under the age of 3.
TIPS FOR BUILDING LASER CUT MODELS

COWTOWN SALOON PARTS LIST
Clockwise from top left (above):
• Front with trim pieces.
• Back with stoop pieces.
• Floor and side walls (all flipped so outside shows; they are
assembled with smooth side facing inward and the floor
tabs slipping into the notches above ground level)
• Roof pieces and trusses plus front porch pieces.
• Front porch roof and pillars.
• Metal parts for doors and windows.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
1. Fit the 4 walls and
floor together. The floor-
boards are oriented front
-to-back (not side-to-
side). Glue and hold in
place with rubber bands
until dry. Note that the
floor fits into notches in
each wall that are above
the ground level.
2. Glue the roof truss
to the underside of the
roof pieces. Note: the
back edge of the roof
has un-even shingles and
the front has a totally
flat edge.
3. You may want to
use a quick-setting glue
since the angles make
clamping difficult. Just
be careful not to get glue
on the etched details
(your sticky fingers can
be the culprit, by the
way).
4. Work on the porch
assembly separately.
There are two rails and
four cross-braces. The
middle two cross-braces
have short pegs on one
end to connect to the
building, and long pegs
on the other to form a
stair-step.
5. When gluing the
framework to the surface
of the porch, line up the
back edge so the pegs
that connect it to the
building are sticking out.
6. Glue the porch to
the building, using glue
not only on the pegs, but
also on the back edge of
the boardwalk piece.
7. As you can see from
the rear-view photo the
back porch steps follow the
same logic. The short pegs
go in the building, and the
stairs are glued to the top
surfaces of the stair frame
pieces.
8. Glue the porch roof pil-
lars in place (optional—for
some buildings you may
wish to leave them off).
The pillars with two legs
go on the ends, and the “L”
shaped pillars go in the
middle.
9. Glue the porch roof on
top of the pillars, and the
back edge to the front of
the building for extra
strength. Make sure the
raggedy edge of the roof is
on the bottom and the
straight edge is on the top!
After the roof is glued in
place, attach skinny verti-
cal side trim pieces, front-
facing top trim, and cor-
nice, resting atop the false
front.
10. Glue metal windows
and doors in place. Each
window and each door
have an inside woodwork
element, and the wall of
the building is sandwiched
between the two pieces.
11. Note how the win-
dows are positioned. In
order to be right-side-up,
the upper sash on the out-
side of the building must
overhang the lower sash.
Windows are made this
way in order to shed water.

When finished, be sure to
seal the building thoroughly
with automotive primer (black
works best, because it shades
the cracks and crevices) to
keep the MDF from soaking
up paint and potentially warp-
ing. Paint the primed building
with craft acrylics. Very nice
effects can be achieved with
dry-brushing over the en-
graved details so they remain
dark.
When finished, seal your building with matte spray varnish
to protect it from wear, then once cured, a light dusting of
flat sealer (not too much or you will get a frosted effect!).
You may want to glue your building down to a hardboard
base and decorate it with sand or flocking. This helps protect
the building from excessive handling, and allows you to add
scene-setting details such as rain barrels and watering
troughs.
Add more detail by using Knuckleduster’s detail parts such
as chimney pipes and interior furniture, available as separate
kits.
As always, we’re glad to help! Contact us through the web-
site, KNUCKLEDUSTER.COM.