Kuma Stoves K-180 Alpine LE User manual

Model # K-180:
Alpine LE
Tested and listed by OMNI-Test
Laboratories Inc.
Portland OR, USA
Emissions tested to: ASTM 3053-2017
Report# 0123WM011E
Safety tested to UL 1482-2011 (R2015)
Report # 0123WN011S
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

K-180 | Rev. 190829
This manual describes the installation and operation of the Kuma Model K-180 Catalytic equipped wood
heater. This heater meets the 2020 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s cord wood emission
limits for wood heaters sold after May 15, 2020. Under specific test conditions (ASTM 3053-2017) this
heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from 10,614 to 32,121 Btu/hr. and an efficiency of
81.0% (High Heating Value). Please visit https://www.kumastoves.com/content/page/EPA for a detailed
explanation of stove efficiencies. Particulate emissions are 0.72 grams per hour and average CO emissions
are 0.10 grams per minute.
Please read the safety precautions and the entire installation and operation
instructions carefully. Failure to properly install and maintain your wood stove
can result in an unsafe condition.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1 - SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
SECTION 2 - SPECIFCATIONS
SECTION 3 - INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION 4 - OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION 5 - CATALYST INFORMATION
SECTION 6 - MAINTENANCE
SECTION 7 - TROUBLESHOOTING
SECTION 8 - WARRANTY

SECTION 1 - WARNINGS
WARNING
If this stove is not properly installed, a house fire can occur. For your protection, follow the installation
instructions provided. We recommend contacting local building or fire officials regarding restrictions and
installation inspection requirements in your area. We also recommend that your Kuma stove be installed
by a properly trained and licensed installer, preferably an NFI (National Fireplace Institute) expert.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVICING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
Do not burn garbage or flammable fluids such as gasoline, naptha or engine oil. Do not use charcoal
lighter fluid or similar liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in this heater. Keep all such fluids well away from
the heater while in use. Storing these fluids near a stove could cause a fire.
DO NOT CONNECT TO ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION OR DUCT SYSTEM.
DO NOT OVERFIRE. If any part of the stove or chimney glows, the stove is in an over fire condition. If this
happens, shut the air control off immediately. Over firing can cause damage.
WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN A SLEEPING ROOM.
An improperly drafting stove can cause smoke and carbon monoxide to enter the home. Smoke detectors
and carbon monoxide monitors are recommended to be installed in the same room as this heater.
CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE FLOOR, WALLS, ROOF/CEILING, AND VAPOR
BARRIERS MUST BE MAINTAINED.
DO NOT USE SINGLE WALL PIPE OR CONNECTOR PIPE FOR ANY CHIMNEY APPLICATION, EXTERIOR
OR THROUGH THE WALL OR CEILING. Single wall pipe may only be used as a connection between the
stove and an approved masonry or stainless steel chimney. Single wall pipe may not be used as a
connector in mobile homes.
When installing into an existing masonry or metal chimney, examine the chimney system carefully. If you
have any questions, seek professional advice. We recommend having existing chimneys cleaned and
inspected by a qualified professional prior to the installation of your new stove.
NOTE ALL MINIMUM CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS TO COMBUSTIBLES. Installation must comply with
minimum clearances as listed in this manual. Clearances may only be reduced by means approved by the
regulatory authority.
Do not operate this stove with the door in an open position, except for cracking open during start-up.
Continued operation with the door open can cause overheating of the unit, and expose embers to nearby
combustibles.
Do not operate with broken glass. Do not abuse glass such as striking or slamming the door.
This stove must be connected to a minimum 6” diameter listed chimney that complies with U.L. type 103HT
factory built chimney or a code approved masonry chimney. When installing into masonry chimneys, a U.L.
1777 approved liner must be installed.
When connecting single wall or double wall connector pipe to the stove and chimney, use 3 screws per pipe
joint including 3 screws securing the pipe to the stove. Depending on the type of double wall pipe you are
using, it may also be necessary to fasten it at the chimney.
Use only approved components for Chimney and Connector. Field fabricated or “makeshift” components are
not allowed and can cause a fire.
DO NOT USE THIS STOVE WITHOUT THE BAFFLE BOARDS AND CERAMIC INSULATION PACKAGED
WITH YOUR STOVE.
When connecting this stove to a masonry chimney, make sure you observe all applicable clearances including
walls, ceilings and other combustible material. A masonry chimney must be minimum 6” diameter and
constructed with a liner according to NFPA code 211. If you have any questions about the condition or the
code compliance of your masonry chimney, please speak with a qualified professional.
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY
CAUSE SKIN BURNS.

SECTION 2 - SPECIFICATIONS
CERTIFICATION TAG

K-180 | Rev. 190829
ALPINE DIMENSIONAL DRAWINGS
All dimensions are in inches.

K-180 | Rev. 190829
ALPINE MINIMUM CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS
All dimensions are in inches. Side clearances are to the side wall of the insert. Top clearances are to the top
plate of the insert.
Minimum Clearances
J – Insert to side wall 7.5”
K1 – Insert to wood trim. Trim
must be no thicker than 3/4”
8.5”
K2 – Insert to wood trim. Trim
must be no thicker than ¾”
7.5
MANTEL CLEARANCE
Your mantel can be 12” deep or less. A 12” mantel must be a minimum of 20” above the top plate of the
insert. If your mantel is shallower than 12” you can use the chart below to determine the minimum height
above the top plate of the insert.
Mantel
Wood Trim
Side Wall
1
2
2

K-180 | Rev. 190829
SECTION 3 – (IN) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
FLOOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS
If the bottom of the insert is raised at least 5” from the combustible floor, then a hearth that provides ember
protection only (no R-value) is sufficient. If the bottom of the insert is less than 5” from the combustible floor,
then Type 2 thermal protection (with an R-value of 1.4) is required.
It is highly recommended that this insert is installed by a qualified professional certified by the
National Fireplace Institute.
The structural integrity of the floor, walls and ceiling/roof must be maintained.
NEVER INSTALL AN INSERT IN A SLEEPING ROOM
This insert is heavy: Get help from another person and use proper lifting techniques
Minimum
Hearth Size
G 6”
H 16”
TYPE 1 - Ember protection
RAISED HEARTH
Min. 5”
non-combustible
TYPE 1 - Ember protection
CANTILEVERED INSERT
Min. 5”
air space
TYPE 2 – 1.4 R-Value
INSERT AT FLOOR LEVEL
At floor level or less
than 5” above

K-180 | Rev. 190829
INSTALLING THE INSERT
Uncrate the insert. Each piece of the insert will be included in a separate box. Follow the instructions located
in each box to install the components of the insert. Install the insert in the following order:
1. Install the chimney liner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Carefully place the insert into the fireplace and level.
3. Connect the liner to the insert.
4. Install the fireplace surround (this kit includes hardware for leveling the insert).
5. Install the catalyst and flame diffuser.
6. Install the door.
7. Install the blower (optional)
INTAKE AIR REQUIREMENTS
FIREPLACE CHIMNEY REQUIREMENTS
A properly installed and maintained venting system is critical to the safe operation of your wood insert. This
insert may be connected, with a liner, to a masonry fireplace that meets the standards of NFPA 211 or may
be connected, with a liner, to a factory-built fireplace that meets the standards of UL127. When choosing
the location for your insert, decide on a central location in the main living area of the home. Uninhabited
areas of the home such as an uninsulated basement or a garage would be an inefficient location for the
heater. Also consider not placing the chimney too close to your neighbors or in a valley that would cause a
nuisance or unhealthy outdoor air quality. For proper draft, the chimney must exit the roof a minimum of 3
feet and at least 2 feet above any portion of the roof that is within 10 feet of the chimney.

Flue Height Recommendations
No offsets in the chimney 14 ft
30° or 45° offsets in the chimney 15 ft
90° offsets in the chimney 16 ft.
90° offsets with 2-3 feet of horizontal run 20 ft.
90° offsets into exterior chimney 22 ft.
The standards referenced in this section are easy to find online and the products that meet these standards
will be readily available from your dealer. Refer to this glossary of terms for a better understanding of these
standards:
Standard Description
UL 103 Covers the safety requirements for factory-built chimneys that vent
wood stoves. Chimney manufacturers can either comply with a 1700°
or a 2100° flue-gas temperature test.
UL 103HT Chimney manufacturers that choose to comply with the 2100° flue-gas
temperature test will receive the designation of a 103HT chimney
system. HT stands for High Temperature and virtually all modern
wood stoves will require this type of chimney.
UL 1777 Covers the safety requirements for chimney liners that are installed
into masonry fireplaces. Your chimney liner will meet the safety
requirements of UL 1777 only if the installation instructions for the liner
are followed.
UL 127 Covers the safety requirements for factory-built fireplaces. Fireplace
manufacturers can comply with either a 1700° or a 2100° flue-gas
temperature test.
NFPA 211 A publication put out by the National Fire Protection Association that
details the proper installation of wood stoves, chimneys, fireplaces,
and venting systems.
IRC - Chapter 10 The International Residential Code covers the safety requirements for
residential homes. Chapter 10 specifically covers chimneys and
fireplaces

WHEN CONNECTING TO A MASONRY FIREPLACE
1. Your masonry fireplace and chimney must be built according to an approved method of construction
such as the NFPA 211 standard. Visit nfpa.org for free access to the standard.
2. You must install a flue liner that meets the type HT requirements (2100°) per the UL 1777 standard.
3. Have a certified chimney inspector clean and inspect your chimney and fireplace to make sure that
there are no code violations, cracks, damaged mortar joints, or blockages.
4. If your chimney is damaged or does not meet code requirements, you may need to re-line or rebuild
your chimney.
5. Kuma recommends that an insulated chimney liner always be installed into a masonry chimney for
improved performance.
6. Chimney liners should not be smaller than 6” diameter or the equivalent cross-sectional area of 28
square inches. Any reduction in flue size may result in smoking or poor performance.
7. Maintain all minimum clearance requirements for this insert as shown at the beginning of this section
and on the listing tag.
WHEN CONNECTING TO A FACTORY-BUILT FIREPLACE
1. Lining the Chimney: A stainless steel chimney liner must be securely attached to the insert and to the
top of the chimney. The liner must meet the Type HT requirements (2100°) per UL 1777. The original
factory-built chimney cap allows for the necessary airflow around the chimney, do not block this
airflow. The Dura-Vent brand has developed a kit (6DFPRO-25KFB ) specifically for re-lining factory-
built fireplaces for use with wood inserts. The proper use of this kit will meet the UL 1777 standard
that is required.
2. Alterations: The only alteration to the fireplace that is allowed is the removal of the damper in order to
connect the chimney liner to the insert. Any non-functioning decorative items that were removed
must be kept so that the fireplace can be returned to its original condition if the insert is ever
removed.
3. Permitting: The local building department has the final authority to approve, with a permit, the
installation of this appliance into a factory-built fireplace. Do not install without a permit.
4. Repairs: Have a certified chimney inspector clean and inspect your chimney and fireplace to make sure
that there are no code violations, damaged components, or blockages.
This insert must be connected to a code approved (e.g. NFPA 211) masonry fireplace with a 6” flue
liner that meets the type HT requirements (2100°) per the UL 1777 standard.
The factory-built fireplace must be tested to the UL 127 standard for factory-built fireplaces.
The fireplace manufacturer must not prohibit the installation of a fireplace insert into the fireplace
and the fireplace must be able to support the weight of the insert.
You must install a liner that meets the Type HT requirements (2100°) per UL 1777.
The fireplace can not be modified in any way to fit the insert.

5. Airflow: Factory built fireplaces have
convection louvres, air duct systems and fixed
blowers that cannot be blocked or disabled
in any way (Figure 1).
6. Sealing the damper: You must not allow
room air to pass into the chimney of the
fireplace. Seal the damper area around the
chimney liner (Figure 1).
7. Clearances: Maintain all minimum clearance
requirements for this insert as shown at the
beginning of this section and on the listing
tag.
8. If the insert protrudes from the face of the
fireplace, it must be appropriately supported
(Figure 1).
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOMES
 In mobile homes, only install into a UL 127 factory-built fireplace that has been approved for use in
mobile homes. Do not install into a masonry fireplace in a mobile home. Follow the instructions in the
factory-built fireplace section.
 Per UL 127, outside combustion air must be supplied to the draft inlet of the fireplace. This
combustion air must be available to the insert.
 Using 8-gauge ground wire and appropriate connectors, you must drill through the hearth and
connect the insert to the metal frame underneath the mobile home.
 When required by local code, you will need to fasten the insert to the floor of the mobile home.
Support the insert
Seal around the damper
Do not block louvres or
disable fans.
Figure 1
Support the insert

SECTION 4 - OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
YOUR 1ST FIRE (BREAK-IN PERIOD)
Paint Curing: When building your 1st fire, be careful to start small and increase the heat slowly over a 4 to 5-
hour period. The paint on the stove cures with heat and needs to be done slowly. As the paint cures, it gives
off a smell and even sometimes a visible haze into the room. Make sure the area is well ventilated during the
curing operation. The smell will subside after a few hours of operation.
Popping and creaking: As the metal heats up and cools down, it moves. This movement can cause a normal
popping or creaking sound that will likely decrease after the first several weeks.
Performance: It is normal for the first few fires to seem a bit lazy. As moisture evaporates from the brick, the
fire will become more active. A layer of ash in the bottom of the stove will also help to keep your coal bed hot
and active. A good thick coal bed and full load of wood are key to optimum performance.
SELECTING WOOD
The leading cause for creosote build-up in the stove or chimney is moisture in the wood. Wood should be
protected from rain and seasoned for 1 full year prior to being used. Your wood must have a moisture content
of 20% or less. You will need to use a moisture meter to determine the moisture content of the wood. The
recommended wood length for this heater is 16”. This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher
efficiencies and lower emissions generally result when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to
softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.
DO NOT BURN:
a. Garbage;
b. Lawn clippings or yard waste;
c. Materials containing rubber, including tires;
d. Materials containing plastic;
e. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint thinners, or asphalt products;
f. Materials containing asbestos;
g. Construction or demolition debris;
h. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;
i. Manure or animal remains;
j. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water saturated materials;
k. Unseasoned wood; or
l. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or particleboard.
Burning these materials may result in release of toxic fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause
smoke. The prohibition against burning these materials does not prohibit the use of fire starters made from
paper, cardboard, saw dust, wax and similar substances.
NEVER USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS TO START OR FRESHEN UP A FIRE
CAUTION: Do not use any fuels that are not seasoned natural wood.
Do not leave the stove unattended with the door open.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER – Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater
design specifications can result in permanent damage to the heater and to the catalytic combustor.

UNDERSTANDING DRAFT
Draft is the force which moves exhaust from the appliance up through the chimney. A properly drafting
chimney will pull the correct amount of air into the stove and will provide you with excellent performance and
heat output. Inadequate draft may cause back puffing of smoke into the room and creosote formation in the
chimney. Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke and carbon monoxide into the room
through appliance and chimney connector joints. Factors that reduce draft are:
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance and may damage the internal
components of the stove. An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indicates excessive draft. Factors
that increase draft are:
Obstructions or
geographical
features
A chimney that is
too short
Cold, dense or
moist air
Wind blowing
down the
chimney
Creosote buildup
Chimney is too
tall
Wind blowing across
the chimney pulls
exhaust

HYBRID WOOD STOVE TECHNOLOGY
This stove’s burn system combines the features of non-catalytic technology with the clean efficient burn of
catalytic wood stove to create an easy to use, ultra-low emission hybrid appliance. Read about each feature
below to help you operate your stove efficiently and beautifully
1. Bypass Control – Located on the upper right side of the stove, the bypass control allows smoke and
heat to temporarily bypass the hybrid burn system. This helps to quickly heat the chimney and
prevent smoke from coming into the room when the door is open.
Start/Reload Position – This position helps to quickly heat the chimney and the catalyst during start-
up by allowing some heat to bypass the catalyst. This position also allows you to reload the stove
while preventing smoke from coming into the room. A short pull forward (about ¾”) and down will
engage the bypass in the Start/Reload Position.
Run Position – This is the normal operating position for the stove. Your stove should always be in this
position unless you are starting or reloading the stove. Simply lift the bypass control and you will feel
it return to the run position.
2. Primary Air Control – Located on the lower right side of the stove, this control changes the rate of
burn for the stove. Slide out for high heat output and slide in for low heat output. You can operate
the stove at any burn rate in between high and low.

a. Always set the air control to high for 20 to 30 minutes when starting or after refueling your
stove. This allows the stove and chimney to come up to operating temperature.
b. When set to high, the primary air washes the glass as it feeds the fire to help keep it clean. If
your glass has built up any smoke deposits from slow burning, set the air control to high for 20
to 30 minutes.
c. Never over fire the stove by leaving the air control on high for too long (see Catalytic and
Catalytic Thermometer below).
3. Secondary Burn System – There are no controls for this system. The stove will automatically draw air
into the secondary burn tubes to re-burn smoke before it reaches the catalyst.
4. Catalytic & Catalytic Thermometer – The catalytic is a metal honeycomb shaped device that cleans
up most of the remaining smoke before it travels up the chimney. The catalytic thermometer shows
you the correct temperature to operate the stove at.
a. Always operate the stove in the active range (anywhere in the light
grey area is perfectly normal).
b. There is a caution symbol on the probe warning you that you may be
exceeding the recommended operating temperature of the catalyst
(1300°F). It is fine to go above the recommended operating range for short
periods of time. The maximum operating temperature is well beyond the caution symbol
(1600°F).
c. Use the Primary Air Control to change the temperature of the stove.
d. As your stove cools there is an indicator on the dial reminding you to reload your stove before
the catalytic combustor becomes inactive.
LIGHTING A FIRE
1. Start by sliding the air control out to fully open.
2. Pull open the bypass control to the Start/Reload Position (A
short pull forward (about ¾”) and down will engage the
bypass in the Start/Reload Position). Open the wood loading
door.
3. Do not use a grate or elevate the fire – Build the wood fire
directly on the fire brick. Start by loading larger pieces of wood
into the firebox bottom then stack progressively smaller pieces
so that the kindling pieces are at the top of the stack. You may
use a fire starter such as shredded paper on top of the kindling.
When starting a fire you should never use un-split pieces of
wood unless they are small, such as twigs and branches.

4. Light the Fire, you can optionally leave the door slightly cracked open to aid in the start-up of your
stove. Close the door once the fire is well lit. Do not leave the stove unattended with the door open.
5. After 15 minutes or Once the catalytic thermometer is close to the active range, close the bypass
control to the Run Position engaging the combustor (Simply lift the bypass control and you will feel it
return to the run position). Leave the air control open for 20-30 minutes so that the fire becomes well
established. If you shut the stove down too soon, it may go out or the combustor may stop working.
6. Begin to regulate the heat output and burn rate by sliding in the primary air control. Use the following
table to adjust your rate of burn.
Desired Burn Rate Position of the air control Approximate Burn Time
Low Burn Fully Closed 7-9 hours
Medium Burn About 1/2” Open 4-6 hours
Start Up Fully Open 2-3 hours
ADDING MORE WOOD TO THE FIRE
1. Slide the air control to fully open and pull open the bypass to the Start/Reload Position. Wait 5
minutes to allow the coals to become active and to allow the smoke to draft up the chimney.
2. Slowly open the wood loading door and rake the coals breaking up any larger pieces. Add wood then
shut the door.
3. As soon as the catalytic thermometer is in or near the active range, close the bypass control to the
Run Position engaging the combustor.
4. Leave the air control open for 10-20 minutes so that the fire becomes well established then begin to
adjust your rate of burn.
ADDITIONAL TIPS FOR BURNING EFFICIENTLY
Burning wood produces both visible emissions (e.g. particulate matter or smoke) as well as invisible
emissions (e.g. Carbon Monoxide). When operating your stove, periodically check for visible emissions
coming from the chimney and adjust the burn rate and fuel load to reduce emissions. Remember to let
your stove burn open for 20-30 minutes each time you reload it with wood. Shutting the air control
prematurely can cause excessive creosote in the chimney. This wood heater has a manufacturer-set
minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or
otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
Small hot fires produce less creosote than long, low smoldering fires. When you start your stove or reload
your stove with more wood, open the draft fully and burn the stove at high burn for 10-30 minutes to heat
up the chimney and secondary burn system. This ensures that when the draft control is pushed in for a
lower, longer burn, the stove will burn cleaner.

SECTION 5 - CATALYST INFORMATION
TAMPER WARNING
This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor which needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper
operation. It is against federal regulations to operate this wood stove in a manner inconsistent with the
operating instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.
CATALYST TYPE
The combustor supplied with this wood stove is an Applied Catalysts ACI-5M combustor. Please refer to
section 6 for catalyst maintenance. Refer to section 7 for catalyst troubleshooting. Refer to section 8 for
catalyst warranty information.
CATALYST MONITORING
It is important to periodically monitor the operation of the catalytic combustor to ensure that it is functioning
properly and to determine when it needs to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of
heating efficiency, and an increase in creosote and emissions. Following is a list of items that should be
checked on a periodic basis:
1. Combustors should be visually inspected at least three times during the heating season to determine
if physical degradation has occurred. Actual removal of the combustor is not recommended unless
more detailed inspection is warranted because of decreased performance. If any of these conditions
exists, refer to Catalyst Troubleshooting section of this owner’s manual.
2. This hybrid heater is equipped with a temperature probe to monitor catalyst operation. Properly
functioning combustors typically maintain temperatures in excess of 500°F, and often reach
temperatures in excess of 1,000°F. If catalyst temperatures are not in excess of 500°F, refer to the
Catalyst Troubleshooting section of this owner’s manual.
3. You can get an indication of whether the catalyst is working by comparing the amount of smoke
leaving the chimney when the smoke is going through the combustor and catalyst light-off has been
achieved, to the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when the smoke is not routed through the
combustor (bypass mode).
 Step 1—Light stove in accordance with instructions in section 4.
 Step 2—With smoke routed through the catalyst, go outside and observe the emissions leaving
the chimney.
 Step 3—Open the bypass mechanism and again observe the emissions leaving the chimney.
 Significantly more smoke will be seen when the exhaust is not routed through the combustor
(bypass mode).
READING THE CATALYST PROBE
Follow the instructions in section 4 to build and maintain a fire. During normal operation the probe should
read in the active range. If, during normal operation, the probe reads less than the active range, the stove
should be refueled following the instruction in section 4. If the probe is climbing above the active range, you
need to decrease the primary air control so that you do not over-fire the stove or catalyst.

SECTION 6 - MAINTENANCE
FIRE EXTINGUISHER
Every home should have a type A:B:C fire extinguisher that is checked and maintained on a regular basis. The
National Fire Protection Agency (nfpa.org) recommends having an extinguisher on each floor of your home.
The location of the extinguisher should be known to everyone in the house.
ASH DISPOSAL
Empty the ashes when they get 3” to 4” deep. Make sure that the fire is out - Never try to empty the ashes
when the stove has an active or full fire, doing so will over heat the stove. Always wear gloves while handling
hot ashes. The ashes may be removed by pulling out the ash drawer (if equipped on freestanding models) or
scooping out the loading door of the stove. To operate the ash drawer:
1. Turn the ash drawer handle to the left or right to release the latch
2. Pull out the drawer and empty the ashes safely as described below.
3. Clean out any ashes that may have fallen into the cavity that the ash drawer slides in to. If any
ashes remain in the cavity it can prevent the ash pan from sealing, resulting in excessive air to
the fire.
4. Slide the ash drawer back into place, push in to compress the spring and turn the handle down.
5. NEVER OPERATE THE STOVE WITH THE ASH DRAWER REMOVED OR OPENED.
Leave 1” of ash in the bottom of the stove to help maintain a hot charcoal bed. Dump the ashes into a metal
container with a tight-fitting lid and keep away from the house. NEVER EMPTY ASHES INTO A
COMBUSTIBLE CONTAINER SUCH AS A PLASTIC BUCKET OR PAPER BAG. NEVER LEAVE ASHES
NEAR THE HOUSE OR GARAGE.
CHIMNEY INSPECTION AND CLEANING
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture
to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a
result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot
fire. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least once every two months during the
heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote has accumulated, it should be
removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire. Failure to remove creosote can result in a chimney fire which
can damage both the chimney and the stove. We recommend having the chimney cleaned and inspected by a
licensed, professional chimney sweep. If the chimney is damaged, it must be replaced.
GASKET INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
Inspect the gaskets around the door, glass and ash pan (if equipped) at least once a year. Check for areas that
are frayed or missing. Press the gasket with your finger to see if the gasket is somewhat soft. Gaskets that
are hard will not conform to the stove and may leak air. When the stove is cold, check to see if the glass
moves up and down or left to right. If the glass moves, you may need to tighten the screws around the
This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation.

retaining ring or replace the gasket. Replacement gaskets and service are available through your local dealer
or by visiting kumastoves.com.
GLASS CLEANING AND REPLACEMENT
Never clean the glass when it is hot. Your stove is equipped with an air wash system that will self-clean. Burn
the stove on high for 20 to 30 minutes every time you add fuel to the fire. This will reduce the creosote on the
glass. If needed, clean the glass with a soft cloth and stove glass cleaner. Do not use steel wool, sandpaper or
abrasive cleaners. If you close the door on a piece of wood that is too long, you will break the glass. If the
glass breaks in your stove, shut off the primary air control and let the fire burn out. Do not leave the stove
unattended with a broken glass. To replace broken glass:
1. Carefully lift the door from the stove and place it on a clean soft work area.
2. Using a Phillips screw driver, remove the retaining ring screws and the retaining ring.
3. Carefully discard the broken glass. CAUTION: BROKEN GLASS WILL BE SHARP.
4. Clean the door and set the new piece of glass into the door so that the logo reads correctly from the
front side of the door. Kuma replacement glass will have the gasket pre-installed.
5. Replace the retaining ring and screws. Be careful to tighten the screws evenly and tighten just enough
to hold the glass firmly
SECONDARY BURN TUBE REPLACEMENT
The burn tubes are one of two burn systems that causes your stove to operate efficiently, this stove also uses
a catalyst to clean some of the remaining smoke before it leaves the stove. If your burn tubes are not
physically degraded (falling apart, crushed or excessively warped) then they are functioning and will not need
replacement. To remove a burn tube, un-bolt the tube using a 7/16” wrench. Pull the tube to the right then
down and out of the stove. Replace the tube and re-install the bolt the holds the tube in place.
CATALYST INSPECTION, CLEANING AND REPLACEMENT
The catalyst is one of two burn systems that causes your stove to operate efficiently, this stove also uses
secondary burn tubes to re-burn smoke before it reaches the catalyst. To inspect your catalyst, unhook the
flame deflector from the face of the baffle by pulling it forward. If your catalyst has not physically degraded
(falling apart, crushed or excessively warped) then it is likely functioning and will not need replacement. If
your Catalytic combustor becomes plugged with ash, clean the catalyst in place using a soft brush or for
deeper cleaning use a slight to moderate (~20-30 psi.) amount of air pressure blowing any ash through the
cells of the catalyst. To replace the catalyst:
1. Remove the flame guard from the face of the baffle by pulling forward. Set aside.
2. Pull the catalyst out using the 2 handles on the front of the catalyst. You may need to wiggle the
catalyst to loosen the gasket material.
3. Remove any gasket material that was left in the baffle cavity.
4. Your new catalyst will be wrapped in a gasket material that is held in place with masking tape and a
stretch film. There is no need to remove the tape or the stretch film.
5. Slide the new catalyst into the cavity until it stops. If you see any gaps larger than 1/8” around the
sides or top of the catalyst you will need to slide the catalyst out and wrap those areas with additional

gasket material (you can use masking tape to hold it in place). The gasket provided will expand 2-3
times its original thickness once heated to seal gaps.
BRICK AND CERAMIC INSULATION REPLACEMENT
Bricks and ceramic insulation should be inspected annually and replaced if necessary. Cracked bricks are fine
if they remain in place. Bricks that are crumbling or falling out need to be replaced. The ceramic insulation is
located on the top of the stove’s baffle and is designed to keep heat in the stove and increase efficiency. If the
insulation is in place it can be left alone. If the insulation becomes torn during cleaning, simply lay it back
together tightly in that area. If the insulation tears to multiple pieces, it should be replaced. To replace the
ceramic insulation, remove the 3 burn tubes allowing the entire baffle to come down and out of the stove.
Mark or otherwise note the order of the tubes so they can be replaced in the same location. Place the
insulation blanket on top of the baffle so that the cut-out aligns with the bypass opening in the baffle. Re-
install the baffle and the 4 burn tubes.