M&S Systems WaveGuide WG100W User manual

In-Wall & Ceiling Speakers
Owner’s Manual
Part Numbers
WG100C WG100W
WG150C WG150W
WG Series
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Page 2
Introduction
WG Series ceiling and in-wall speakers are designed
to provide clear, sharply-focused audio reproduction
while remaining unobtrusive in the background. These
speakers bring out the best in any home theater or
whole-house stereo system. These products also offer
many features, including:
• 1” Asymmetrical Aluminum Dome Tweeter
• Tweeter is mounted on swivel base that en-
ables positioning up to 15 degrees off axis at
a 180-degree rotation
• Slide switches for bass and treble control
(+/-3dB)
• Cam-lock mounting system with isolated
rubber pads to reduce vibration
• Kevlar cone for low distortion and smooth
response
• Molded in IR lens that allows installation of an
infra-red receiver through the speaker baffle
• Gasket around the baffle to provide an
acoustic seal
Description
Page 2
Frequency Response 50Hz to 20kHz (+/-3db)
Maximum Power Rating 100 Watts
Impedance Rating 8-Ohms
Overall Speaker Dimension 9” Diameter
Specifications 6” Kevlar cone woofer;
1” asymmetrical aluminum dome
tweeter
Mounting Dimension w/o
Mounting Ring
7 13/16” Diameter
Mounting Ring Dimension 8 3/16” Diameter
Grille Aluminum
Color White
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Page 3
WG150C Ceiling Speakers (Sold in Pairs)
WG100W In-wall Speakers (Sold in Pairs)
Page 3
Frequency Response 35Hz to 20kHz (+/-3db)
Maximum Power Rating 150 Watts
Impedance Rating 8-Ohms
Overall Dimensions 10 7/8” Diameter
Specifications 8” Kevlar cone woofer;
1” asymmetrical aluminum dome
tweeter
Mounting Dimension w/o
Mounting Ring
9 5/8” Diameter
Mounting Ring Dimension 10 1/16” Diameter
Grille Aluminum
Color White
Frequency Response 50Hz to 20kHz (+/-3db)
Maximum Power Rating 100 Watts
Impedance Rating 8-Ohms
Overall Dimensions 9” W x 12 5/16” H
Specifications 6” Kevlar cone woofer;
1” asymmetrical aluminum dome
tweeter
Mounting Dimension w/o
Mounting Ring
7 1/2” W x 10 13/16” H
Mounting Ring Dimension 7 15/16” W x 11 3/16” H
Grille Aluminum
Color White
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WG150W In-wall Speakers (Sold in Pairs)
Unpacking Your Speakers
Before you unpack your speakers, be extra
careful not to touch the cone and tweeter
materials. After carefully unpacking your
speakers, the carton and the packing material
should be saved for possible use later. If any
speaker appears to be damaged, do not attempt
to repair or to connect the unit to the amplifier.
Repack the speaker and notify your distributor or
M&S Systems for replacement or repair.
Speaker Location
Ceiling Installation
Careful consideration must be given to the
speaker location to realize the full frequency
range. Ceiling speakers should be spaced 6 to 8
feet (6 feet for 8-foot ceilings and 8 feet for 10-
Frequency Response 35Hz to 20kHz (+/-3db)
Maximum Power Rating 150 Watts
Impedance Rating 8-Ohms
Overall Dimensions 10 1/4” W x 14 15/16” H
Specifications 8” Kevlar cone woofer;
1” asymmetrical aluminum dome
tweeter
Mounting Dimensions w/o
ring
8 11/16” W x12 3/4” H
Mounting Ring Dimension 9 3/16” W x 13 3/16” H
Grille Aluminum
Color White
Page 4
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foot ceilings and above) apart but no closer than
2 feet to any adjacent wall. Avoid placing
speakers in air return cavities. Some type of
protection will be required for the back of the
speaker if blown insulation is used. The following
is a partial list of ways to protect the speaker:
• Use an RE-16 speaker cover
• Use a piece of wood that will cover at least 3
feet on either side of the speaker opening.
The ends may be partially closed to keep the
blown insulation from reaching the speaker,
however, a minimum gap of 2 inches at each
end is better than a sealed box
• Use a piece of bat insulation at least 3 inches
thick over the back of the speaker. This
insulation should not have a backing or if it
does, the backing must be installed facing
away from the speaker.
• Use a fine mesh to cover the back of the
speaker to protect against bulk type insulation
materials. This will not work with insulation
containing fine powders.
Do not install speakers in joist cavities containing
120/240V appliances, within 18 inches of dimmer
light fixtures, security wiring and other control
wiring.
In-wall Installation
Careful consideration must be given to the
speaker location to realize the full frequency
range. In-wall speakers should be spaced 6 to 8
feet apart but no closer than 2 feet to any
adjacent wall or ceiling. Typical height from the
floor would be in the 4 to 6 foot range. Avoid
placing speakers in air return wall cavities,
outside walls or walls containing plumbing.
To reduce vibration into a room on the back side
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of the speaker, use a piece of bat insulation at
least 3 inches thick in the stud cavity. This
insulation should not have a backing or if it does,
the backing must be installed facing away from
the speaker. The insulation should extend about
2 ft. on either side of the speaker opening.
Do not install speakers in outside walls, stud
cavities containing 120/240V appliances, within
18 inches of dimmers, security wiring and other
control wiring.
Speaker Installation
for New Construction
Ceiling Speakers
Step 1. Speaker mounting rings are used in the
pre-construction phase of speaker installation
during construction of new homes and additions.
WG Series mounting rings are designed to pro-
vide drywall Installers
the correct cut-out
pattern for the speak-
ers. The mounting
rings have “flaps” that
are nailed/screwed/
stapled onto the joist.
See figure 1. Once
the wall board is in-
stalled, the opening is
cut out to mount the
speaker.
When installing the
mounting ring, note
that there are holes
molded into the mounting ring for speaker wire
tie-off.
Page 6
FIGURE 1
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TIPS FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION
• If possible, run speaker wires after AC
wiring is in place to avoid additional noise
caused by close proximity of wiring.
• Secure the speaker wires against a joist with
insulated staples, being careful not to pierce
the wire insulation. Allow slack for building
material expansion.
• Horizontal wire runs should be routed through
holes drilled at equal heights in the joist.
• Do not install the actual speaker until the wall
board is in place. Until then leave several feet
of wire secured to the back of the mounting
ring. The excess wire can be removed during
final installation.
• During the drywall installation, make sure the
speaker cut-out hole does not extend farther
than 1/4 inch from the inside of the mounting
ring. The flat rough-in rings and flaps are thin
enough that they won’t interfere with wall
board installation.
Step 2. After you
have determined
the speaker
locations using the
guidelines above,
secure a 16 gauge
2-conductor
cable to the mount-
ing ring tabs (see
figure 2), such as
the M&S Systems
MS16X, for
attachment to the
speakers after the
dry wall has been
Page 7
FIGURE 2
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installed. Leave at least 18 inches additional ca-
ble for the connection during final speaker instal-
lation. Run the other end of the speaker cable to
the audio source.
NOTE: Make a drawing of each speaker location.
This will assist you in locating the wires if they
have been covered after the wall board has been
installed.
Step 3. This is the finish-out stage. Prepare the
speaker wiring by stripping off approximately 3
inches of the outer jacket (care should be taken
so the insulation on the wires inside the jacket
are not damaged) also strip approximately 3/8
inch off the ends of the two inside conductors.
Twist the ends of the stranded cable so the wires
are tight.
Step 4. Follow the instructions included with the
volume control and amplifier.
Step 5. You are now ready to install the speaker.
Remove the paint mask from the baffle. Be
careful not to touch the speaker cones and
Page 8
Negative (black)
Positive
(red)
FIGURE 3
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tweeter when removing the paint mask in
order to prevent any damage. Attach the
speaker cable to the speaker by pressing down
on the red (+) or black (-) gold-plated push
terminals and inserting the red wire in the red
terminal and the black wire in the black terminal.
See Figure 3. Make sure that none of the strands
from the black and red wires are touching each
other. This can create a short circuit that can
damage your electronics. Index the mounting
tabs to make sure that all tabs will clear the
opening. Insert the speaker in the ceiling and
tighten the tabs with the screws on the front of
the grille. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE
SCREWS, the screws should only be tight
enough to secure the speaker.
Step 6. After the speaker is mounted,
adjustments to the swivel tweeter (small speaker)
can be made by either directing the sound
visually or by using a musical source to
determine the best sound coverage for the
listening area. To position the tweeter, press at
the outside edge of the tweeter housing
(DO NOT
PRESS DI-
RECTLY ON
THE TWEETER
CONE ).
Note (see
figure 4) the
crease in the
asymmetrical
tweeter
provides the
Page 9
FIGURE 4
Crease position
tweeter
horn
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highest
directional
response in this
direction.
See figure 5. If
you want to
disperse the
sound in a 360-
degree pattern
you must
position the line
in the tweeter in
a horizontal
position.
See figure 6. The
combination of switch
settings allow you to
boost and cut bass
and treble +/-3dB.
Adjust the speaker
level to accommodate
for room acoustics.
Step 7. Divide each
adhesive bead strip
in half. (Adhesive
bead strips are in the
clear self-closing
bag). Place strips on
the edge of the grille
as shown in figure 7.
Reinstall the grille on
the speaker.
Step 8. Adhere the WG Series logo to the grille
with the pressure sensitive tape.
Repeat the steps for the second speaker.
Page 10
FIGURE 6
FIGURE 5
FIGURE 7
crease position
tweeter
horn
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In-wall Speakers
Step 1. Speaker mounting rings are used in the
pre-construction phase of speaker installation
during construction of new homes and additions.
WG Series mounting rings are designed to
provide drywall installers the correct cut-out
pattern for the speakers. The rings have “flaps”
that are nailed/screwed/stapled onto the studs.
See figure 8.
Once the wall board
is installed, the
opening is cut out
and the speaker
frame is inserted
into the mounting
ring.
When installing the
mounting ring, note
that there are holes
molded into the
mounting ring for
speaker wire tie-off.
TIPS FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION
• Use a small level to verify that the mounting
ring is straight.
• If possible, run speaker wires after AC
wiring is in place to avoid additional noise
caused by close proximity of wiring.
• Secure the speaker wires against a stud with
insulated staples, being careful not to pierce
the wire insulation. Allow slack for building
material expansion.
• Horizontal wire runs should be routed through
holes drilled at equal heights in the studs.
Page 11
FIGURE 8
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• Do not install the actual speaker until the wall
board is in place. Until then leave several feet
of wire secured to the back of the mounting
ring. The excess wire can be removed during
final installation.
During the drywall installation, make sure the
speaker cut-out hole does not extend farther than
1/4 inch from the inside of the mounting ring. The
flat rough-in rings and flaps are thin enough that
they won’t interfere with installation.
Step 2. After you have determined the speaker
locations using the guidelines above, secure a 16
gauge 2 conductor cable to the mounting ring
tabs (see figure
9), such as the
M&S Systems
MS16X, for at-
tachment to the
speakers after the
dry wall has been
installed. Leave at
least 18 inches
additional cable
for the connection
during final
speaker installa-
tion. Run the
other end of the
speaker cable to
the audio source.
NOTE: Make a drawing of each speaker location.
This will assist you in locating the wires that have
been covered after the sheet rock has been
installed.
Page 12
FIGURE 9
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Step 3. This is the finish-out stage. Prepare the
speaker wiring by stripping off approximately 3
inches of the outer jacket (care should be taken
so the insulation on the wires inside the jacket
are not damaged) also strip approximately 3/8
inch off the ends of the two inside conductors.
Twist the ends of the stranded cable so the wires
are tight.
Step 4. Follow the instructions included with the
volume control and amplifier.
Step 5. You are now ready to install the frame.
Remove the paint mask. Be careful not to touch
the speaker cones and tweeters when
removing the paint mask in order to prevent
any damage. Remove the baffle from the frame
and fasten the frame to the pre-construction
bracket. Attach the speaker cable to the speaker
by pressing down on the red (+) or black (-) gold-
plated push terminals and inserting the red wire
in the red terminal and the black wire in the black
terminal. See figure 10. Make sure that none of
the strands from the black and red wires are
touching each other. This can create a short
circuit that can damage your electronics. Mount
Page 13
Positive
(red)
Negative
(black)
FIGURE 10
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Page 14
the baffle using the 6 screws provided. DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS, the screws
should on only be tight enough to secure the
speaker.
Step 6. After the speaker is mounted,
adjustments to the swivel tweeter (small speaker)
can be made by either directing the sound
visually or by using a musical source to
determine the best sound coverage for the
listening area. To position the tweeter, press at
the outside edge of the tweeter housing
(DO NOT PRESS DIRECTLY ON THE CONE).
Note the crease in the asymmetrical tweeter
provides the highest directional response in this
direction. See figure 11.
If you want to disperse the sound in a 360-degree
pattern you must
position the line in
the tweeter in a
horizontal position.
See figure 12.
The combination of
switch settings allow
you to boost and cut
bass and treble +/-
3dB. Adjust the
speaker level to
accommodate for
room acoustics. See
figure 13.
Crease position
FIGURE 11
Tweeter horn
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Page 15
Step 7. Divide each
adhesive bead strip
in half. (Adhesive
bead strips are in the
clear self-closing
bag). Place strips on
the edge of the grille
as shown in figure
14. Reinstall the grill
on the speaker.
Step 8. Adhere the
WG Series logo to
the grille with the
pressure sensitive
tape.
Repeat the steps for
the second speaker.
Speaker Installation
Tweeter horn
Crease position
FIGURE 12
FIGURE 13
FIGURE 14
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Page 16
for Existing Construction
Ceiling Speakers
For existing construction, the use of mounting
rings can not occur. The following steps outline
how to locate a section between two joists, mark
the outer boundaries of the hole, drill a small hole
in the center to verify the location and then cut
the main hole.
Step 1. Determine the location of the joists so the
speaker can be centered approximately between
them. There are several ways to go about this:
• Use an electronic stud finder. Many finders
can also indicate the location of live AC
wiring.
• Tap on the wall and listen to the resulting
sound. When the sound is deeper and more
hollow sounding, you are between joists.
When the sound is sharper and more flat
sounding, you are close or over a stud.
• Identify joists by the position of electrical
light fixtures. There may be a joist directly to
the left or right of these electrical fixture. This
gives you a point of measurement since joists
are either 24 or 16 inches on center in newer
houses, 12 inches in older homes.
Step 2. When you are sure of where the ceiling’s
joists are (and are completely sure there isn’t an
electrical cable, water pipe or heating duct in that
vicinity of the wall), position the cardboard
mounting template, and draw around the outer
perimeter with a pencil.
Step 3. Drill a 1-inch hole in the center of the
pencil outline which you have just drawn, just
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Page 17
deep enough to fully penetrate the drywall.
Step 4. Obtain a length of stiff wire such as a
straightened wire coat hanger. Bend it so that the
last 6 or 8 inches is at a right angle to the rest.
Step 5. Insert the bent part into the 1-inch hole
you just drilled and probe to the left and the right
to confirm that a joist is not too close on either
side. Move the wire around in a circular motion to
check clearances above and below the hole as
well.
Step 6. If there are no obstructions, carefully
score the penciled outline of the template with a
sharp utility knife to avoid chipping paint or
tearing wallpaper. Then use a drywall or keyhole
saw to cut along the scored line. Make sure that
you do not cut the hole larger than the outline.
Step 7. Be sure to clear any insulation material
from the speaker back.
Step 8. After you have determined the speaker
locations secure a 16 gauge 2 conductor cable to
the joist using an insulated staple. Leave at least
18 inches of additional cable for connection dur-
ing final speaker installation. Run the other end of
the speaker cable to the audio source.
Step 9. Prepare the speaker wiring by stripping
off approximately 3 inches of the outer jacket
(care should be taken so the insulation on the
wires inside the jacket are not damaged) also
strip approximately 3/8 inch off the ends of the
two inside conductors. Twist the ends of the
stranded cable so the wires are tight.
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Step 10. Follow the instructions included with the
volume control and amplifier.
Step 11. You are now ready to install the
speaker. Remove the paint mask from the baffle.
Be careful not to touch the speaker cones and
tweeter when removing the paint mask in
order to prevent any damage. Attach the
speaker cable to the speaker by pressing down
on the red (+) or black (-) gold-plated push
terminals and inserting the red wire in the red
terminal and the black wire in the black terminal.
See Figure 3 on page 8. Make sure that none of
the strands from the black and red wires are
touching each other. This can create a short
circuit that can damage your electronics. Index
the mounting tabs to make sure that all tabs will
clear the opening. Insert the speaker in the
ceiling and tighten the tabs with the screws on
the front of the grille. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
THE SCREWS, the screws should only be tight
enough to secure the speaker.
Step 12. After the speaker is mounted,
adjustments to the swivel tweeter (small speaker)
can be made by either directing the sound
visually or by using a musical source to
determine the best sound coverage for the
listening area. To position the tweeter, press at
the outside edge of the tweeter housing (DO
NOT PRESS ON THE TWEETER CONE
DIRECTLY).
Note the crease in the asymmetrical tweeter
provides the highest directional response in this
direction. See figure 4 on page 9.
If you want to disperse the sound in a 360-degree
Page 18
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pattern you must position the line in the tweeter
in a horizontal position. See figure 5 on page 10.
The combination of switch settings allow you to
boost and cut bass and treble +/-3dB. Adjust the
speaker level to accommodate for room
acoustics. See figure 6 on page 10.
Step 13. Divide each adhesive bead strip in half.
(Adhesive bead strips are in the clear self-closing
bag). Place strips on the edge of the grille as
shown in figure 7 on page 10. Reinstall the grille
on the speaker.
Step 14. Adhere the WG Series logo to the grille
with the pressure sensitive tape.
Repeat steps for the second speaker.
In-wall Speakers
For existing construction, the use of rough-in
rings can not occur. The following steps outline
how to locate a section between two wall studs,
mark the outer boundaries of the hole, drill a
small hole in the center to verify the location and
then cut the main hole.
Step 1. Determine the location of the wall studs
so the speaker can be centered approximately
between them. There are several ways to go
about this:
• Use an electronic stud finder. Many stud
finders can also indicate the location of live
AC wiring.
• Tap on the wall and listen to the resulting
sound. When the sound is deeper and more
hollow sounding, you are between studs.
Page 19
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When the sound is sharper and more flat
sounding, you are close or over a stud.
• Identify studs by the position of electrical
outlets or switches. There may be a stud
directly to the left or right of these electrical
fixture. This gives you a point of
measurement since studs are either 24 or 16
inches on center in newer houses, 12 inches
in older homes.
Step 2. When you are sure of where the wall’s
studs are (and are completely sure there isn’t an
electrical cable, water pipe or heating duct in that
vicinity of the wall), use a level and position the
cardboard mounting template, and draw around
the outer perimeter with a pencil.
Step 3. Drill a 1-inch hole in the center of the
pencil outline which you have just drawn, just
deep enough to fully penetrate the drywall.
Step 4. Obtain a length of stiff wire such as a
straightened wire coat hanger. Bend it so that
the last 6 or 8 inches is at a right angle to the
rest.
Step 5. Insert the bent part into the 1-inch hole
you just drilled and probe to the left and the right
to confirm that a stud is not too close on either
side. Move the wire around in a circular motion to
check clearances above and below the hole as
well.
Step 6. If there are no obstructions, carefully
score the penciled outline of the template with a
sharp utility knife to avoid chipping paint or
tearing wallpaper. Then use a drywall or keyhole
saw to cut along the scored line. Make sure that
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