Mizerak P1240LEG User manual

OWNER’S MANUAL
ESSEX AND ENTERTAINER 8FT. DROP POCKET POOL TABLE
MODEL NO. P1240LEG 527.25408
MODEL NO. P1240RAIL 527.25410
MODEL NO. P1266
1. READ THIS MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING ASSEMBLY.
Read each step completely before beginning each step.
2. SOME SMALLER PARTS MAY BE SHIPPED INSIDE LARGER PARTS. CHECK INSIDE ALL PARTS
AND CARTONS BEFORE ASSEMBLING OR ORDERING PARTS.
3. USE THE HARDWARE IDENTIFIER TO IDENTIFY AND SORT ALL FASTENERS. CHECK ALL CARTONS
FOR KITS. ALL HARDWARE IS NOT LOCATED IN ONE KIT.
THIS TABLE IS CONTAINED IN THREE SEPARATE CONTAINERS:
Container #1......Three playfield pieces
Container #2......Contains owner’s manual, leg assemblies, hardware kits, corner and side caps,
corner posts, playfield spots, slate shims, glue and grout kit and drop pockets.
Container #3......Contains long slats, short slats, beams, top rails, aprons, playfield cloth,
and additional hardware kits.
2L-6791-01
Please visit our World Wide Web site at:
www.escaladesports.com
On-Line Trouble Shooting Frequently Asked Questions
Technical Assistance On-Line Parts Requests
Additional Escalade®Sports Product Information
PLEASE DO NOT RETURN PRODUCT TO THE STORE!
Contact Escalade® Sports customer service department at:
Phone: [phone] Toll Free !
Fax: [phone]Toll Free !
E-mail: [email protected]
Mailing Address: Escalade® Sports, PO Box 889, Evansville, IN 47706
Escalade® Sports products may be manufactured and/or licensed under the following patents.
D446275
Additional patents may be pending. One or more of the listed patents and/or pending patents may cover specific product.
©2005 Escalade®Sports

2
CAUTION
THE SPRAYADHESIVE USED FOR APPLYING PLAYFIELD CLOTH IS EXTREMELYFLAMMABLE AND UNDER
PRESSURE! CAREFULLYREAD CAUTIONS ON SPRAYADHESIVE CONTAINER! KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF
CHILDREN! DO NOTUSE OR STORE NEAR HEATSOURCE, FLAMES, SPARKS OR WHEN SMOKING! WORK
AREA MUST BE WELL VENTILATED. OPEN DOORS AND WINDOWS WHEN USING SPRAYADHESIVE.
To ensure safety, do not attempt to assemble system without following instruc-
tions carefully. Proper and complete assembly, use, and supervision is essential for
proper operation and to reduce the risk of accident or injury. A high prob-
ability of serious injury exists if this system is not installed, maintained, and
operate properly.
NOTE: Rails are made with cushion rubber at a height that requires standard 2 1/4” diameter balls.
Your dealer has a complete line Billiard Accessories.
NOTE:This table adds weight to any floor. Be sure floor can withstand this kind of weight. If floor sags,
table will be impossible to level.
• Hammer (Claw Type)
• Needle Nose Pliers
• 7/16” Open End Wrench
• Standard Screwdriver
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Power Screwdriver
(optional but very helpful)
• 3/8” Open End Wrench
• Hammer (Small Ball Peen Type)
• Carpenters Level or 36” Straight Edge
• 1/2” Open End Wrench
• Rachet with 3/8”, 7/16”,
and 1/2” sockets
• Putty Knife
• Tape Measure
• Sanding Block
• Awl or 8d Nail
• Scissors or Sharp Knife
Tools Needed: (Not Included)

3
4. Attach leg posts #3 to the inside face of metal
leg facades #1 on both leg assemblies (from
steps 2 & 3). Use two carriage bolts #30, two
washers #22 and two locknuts #21 per leg
post.
NOTE: There is a set of holes at one end of
the leg posts that are grouped close to-
gether. Make sure that these holes go to
the top of the wooden posts. About 1/8
inch of leg posts #3 will extend below the
metal facade #1. (Figure 2)
5. Once the leg post is securely fastened, tighten
the four bottom screws #33 on the leg panels.
1. Open hardware kits and sort hardware into "like"
groups using hardware identifier provided in this
manual.
2. Attach two wooden leg panels #2 (be sure wood
grain faces out) to the inside of two leg facades
#1 using six screws #33, six washers #35 and six
locknuts #34 per leg panel. Make sure that
dimension B is at the bottom of the leg panel. (See
Figure 1)
NOTE: Leave all four bottom screws #33
loose until the leg post #3 is installed. Leg
post #3 CANNOT be attached if the four
bottom screws #33 are tight. Tighten finger
tight only.
3. Repeat step 2 to put together other leg assembly.
Figure 2
Figure 1

4
6. Before starting this part of
the assembly, orient beams #4
with ball return attachment holes at
the same end of the table and the
holes marked by arrows in figure 3
facing up.
7. Attach wooden beams #4 to the
leg assemblies (that you just put
together). Use two long bolts #27, two
short bolts #40, six washers #23 and four
locknuts #26 as shown. Repeat for other
beam #4.
NOTE: The two longer bolts #27 go through
top and bottom mounting holes in beam #4, metal
facade #1 and leg post #3. These bolts require a washer
between the bolt and beam #4 as well as between leg post #3 and
the locknut.
NOTE: The two shorter bolts #40 go through the other two mounting
holes in beam #4 and metal facade #1. They only require a washer
between the bolt and beam #4.
Figure 3
Figure 4
Detail A
8. Place slats #5 and #6 across beams #4 as shown
in figure 4. Make sure the two shorter slats #5 go
on the ends of the beams and that the two longer
slats #6 go in the center as shown. The side of the
slats with the countersink around each hole faces
up. (See detail A).
9. Insert four dowel connectors #39 into the holes in
side of beams #4 just below the slats. Note that the
slot in the end of dowel connectors should be
vertical. (See Figure 4 and Detail A). Start screws
#24 the dowel connectors by hand until you are sure
threads are engaged properly. Do not force them
with power tools. Do not tighten screws completely
yet.

5
LEVELING BASE FRAME
Use a carpenter's level to level table as close as possible.
It is easier to do it now rather than after the playfield has been
attached to the frame.
12. Determine the highest corner of the frame by placing the
level in following two ways:
nCheck frame from end to end as shown in figure 6.
nThen check the table diagonally as shown in figure 7.
13. Once you have determined the highest corner, raise
other three corners by shimming. To do this place
one shim at a time under the lower corners until the
table is level. Leg shim stock is provided in the
slatron bed kit and must be cut to the desired size.
Shims must be placed directly under leg post.
Figure 7
Figure 6
Figure 5
10. Square up long slats #6 by measuring diago-
nally as shown in figure 5. Diagonals should be the
same length within 1/8". Check to make sure the
table is square. If frame is not square, the adjust-
ment can be made by moving table beams #4 in
opposite directions. Usually only a slight adjust-
ment if any should be required.
11. Once frame is square, tighten screws #24
holding slats to beams. Note: Be sure the heads
of screws #24 are flush with or below the top
of the slats.

6
UNBOXING THE SLATE (Slate tables only:)
AFTER CRATE PARTS ARE REMOVED, BEND NAILS OR STAPLES OVER WITH A HAMMER
AT ONCE! USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING CRATE PARTS!
14. It is now time to uncrate the slate pieces.
With a claw hammer or crow bar, pry off
crate top at the notched corner. (See
figure 8) BE CAREFUL NOT TO
DAMAGE SLATE INSIDE! SLATE IS
BRITTLE AND CAN BE EASILY
DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIED AGAINST!
15. Remove the front rail of the crate. Slide the
slate out the front of the crate. (Figure 9)
Figure 9
Figure 8
UNBOXING THE SLATRON (Slatron tables only)
16. It is now time to unbox the slatron
pieces. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAM-
AGE SLATRON INSIDE! SLATRON
CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT
OR PRIED AGAINST! (See Figure
10)
If the edges of your Slatron has
"fuzz" on it, lightly sand to remove
with sandpaper provided in kit No.
5A-6191-00.
Figure 10
The sheets of slatron may not be completely flat when
removed from the shipping carton. This is normal. Once
they have been placed on the table frame and securely
fastened down, they will become straight and flat.
IMPORTANT!

7
THE FOLLOWING STEP REQUIRES
THE HELP OF ANOTHER ADULT!
Figure 11
CAUTION: Be sure countersunk holes in all three
table top sections #7 and #8 face up: See Detail "A",
Figure 11. NOTE: Slatron tables have "match" line
markings like those shown above (or letters A, B, C).
Line up these lines or letters when putting down the
slatron sections.
17. Place center section #8 on the two long slats #6.
Center this piece on slats as well as you can. Center
section #8 should overhang the ends of the slats by ½"
inch. Use a tape measure to be sure.
18. Put a pencil (or punch) into each countersunk hole in
center section #8 and mark slats below. Remove center
section #8 and drill pilot holes in slats using a 1/8" drill
bit. Clean tops of slats completely of dust and
wood chips. Any dirt and debris can cause table
top sections to be uneven.
19. Place center section #8 back on slats and secure it to
long slats #6 with six screws #38. Dry soap on screw
threads will make this job easier. CAUTION: When
driving screws through slatron sections, hold slatron
down tight against the slats so they don't ride up on the
screws. NOTE: Be sure there are no gaps be-
tween center section #8 and slats. If gaps exist,
tighten screws more. However do not tighten
screws so much that center section begins to
crush or crack.
20. Place end sections #7 onto slats. Be sure they are
square, in line and butted up tight against center slate
#8.
21. Mark slats with a pencil through countersunk holes in
end sections #7. Remove end sections and drill pilot
holes with a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats
completely of dust and wood chips. Any dirt
and debris will prevent end sections from
aligning properly.
22. Place end sections #7 back on slats and secure using
screws #38 (five screws per end section). NOTE: Be
sure there are no gaps between end sections
#7 and slats. Run your finger across the two
seams between center section #8 and end
sections #7 to check for any uneven areas.
Sections should be even.
You should not need shims to even up the table top
sections #7 and #8, so if the sections do not align, first
try loosening screws and brush out underneath to
remove chips etc.. Then check under table to make sure
there are no gaps between the table top sections and
the slats. If gaps exist, tighten screws more. However,
do not tighten screws so much that the sections begin
to crush or crack. Top edges of seams must be precisely
level and even with one another. If you need to use
shims, read the shimming instructions on the following
page.
Detail A

8
SHIMMING INSTRUCTIONS IF REQUIRED
General Rules
nAccomplish the leveling of the playing surface with as few
shims as possible.
nDo not tap with a hammer or tighten screws unreasonably
tight. You will not be able to compress the playing surface.
You must shim up the playing surface to level. Shims are
meant only to raise the low places at the seams and ends.
Very short and low places should be filled with grout. Do not
assume the floor is level. Most leveling can be accom-
plished by working with the frame.
nIf using power tools be sure to use only enough torque to
reasonably tighten screws.
nSeams can best be checked by passing your finger over the
seam and feeling if it is flush.
nAll screws must be tightened after shimming.
STEP BY STEP SHIMMING
23. Be sure table is set in its final location.
24. Table must be as level as possible before shimming.
Large differences in levelness must be corrected
by raising or lowering frame with shim stock.
DO NOT ASSUME FLOOR IS LEVEL!
25. Tighten down all the playing surface mounting screws.
26. Check with a carpenter's level to determine where slate
is low on ends, and use finger tips to locate uneven spots
at the seams. Loosen screws at these points and see if
slate comes up to flush. If so detach individual shims from
the sheet shipped with this table and place under these
areas. Place shims next to screws.
27. Lay a straight edge across seams to be sure slate pieces
are at the same height.
28. After top surface of slate is flat and level all screws must
be snugged down tight. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
SCREWS! Check these screws before proceeding to
the next step.
29. Minor differences can be filled with grout.
GROUTING INSTRUCTIONS
30. Clean top sections with a damp cloth. DO NOT USE
TOO MUCH WATER. Allow enough time for top sections
to dry thoroughly before starting the next step.
31. A small container of grout has been provided for filling
small imperfections in the table seams and countersinks.
Using a putty knife, fill both seams and the four
countersunk holes in the center playfield area (all other
countersunk holes in slate will be covered by the rails).
Do not use more grout than is necessary. Spread grout
smoothly and evenly.
32. Allow grout to cure before starting the next step.
33. Using a medium grit sandpaper and a sanding block,
lightly sand the filled areas smooth and flat. USE A
STRAIGHT EDGE TO CHECK THAT THESE AREAS
ARE FLAT. Apply grout again if you find low places at
countersunk holes or seams.
Figure 12

9
Figure 16
Figure 15
Figure 14
Figure 13
Detail A
DO NOT SMOKE WHILE WORKING
WITH CONTACT CEMENT! READ LABEL
ON CEMENT CONTAINER CAREFULLY!
Applying the cloth
34. Make sure slate/slatron is dry and free of dust.
NOTE: Before spraying adhesive, cut a portion of the shipping
carton to use as a shield to prevent cement overspray.
35. Place cloth over slate/slatron with equal overhang on all sides.
NOTE: Cloth may seem small but it will stretch a great
deal.
36. Fold cloth away from end to expose slate/slatron for your first
glue application. Apply contact cement to top surface in a band
4 inches wide on this end. (See figure 13) Coat edge also. Spray
cement smoothly and evenly. Allow cement to become tacky,
wait at least one minute.
37. Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, press
cloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth
cloth down and over edges.
38. Fold cloth away from side to expose slate/slatron for your second
glue application. (See figure 14). Apply cement to the side in
the same manner as your first glue application. Allow cement
to become tacky, wait at least one minute.
39. Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, press
cloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth
cloth down and over edges.
40. Fold cloth away from other side to expose slate/slatron for your
third glue application. (See figure 15). Apply cement to this side
in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least
one minute.
41. Stretch the cloth across the width and over the edge of the table.
STRETCH HARD ENOUGH TO TAKE OUT WRINKLES,
BUT NOT SO HARD THAT THE CLOTH SLIPS.
42. Fold cloth away from other end to expose slate/slatron for your
fourth glue application. (See figure 16) Apply cement to this end
in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least
one minute.
43. Make a final stretch along the length of and over the edge of the
table, stretch hard enough to work out all wrinkles. (See figure
16) If cloth is not smooth, lift and re-apply. NOTE: Rubbing
fingers lightly across cloth should not make cloth move.
44. Locate center of pocket opening. (See Detail A and B) Using
sharp scissors, make a straight cut. Next, cut to pocket edge to
form pie shapes. (See detail B) Divide these pie shapes in half.
As you do, the pie shapes begin to relax to allow for placement.
You may need to make additional cuts.
45. Spray adhesive on the underneath side of the slate around
pocket face to adhere the cloth. Make sure not to get overspray
of glue on table. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least
one minute. Stretch the pie shapes down and under the pocket
opening. Press the cloth against the cement on the underside of
the slate/slatron. Be sure entire pie shape is fully attached to
underneath side of table.
Figure 17
Detail B

10
Figure 18
46.Find the three ¾ inch holes in the playing surface that are
between each pocket. Using a small sharp knife, cut a
small cross in cloth over each hole for the rail bolts #19
to pass through. (See Figure 18, Detail A)
IMPORTANT: See top rail identifier below
before placing top rails on table.
47.Place rails in position on the playing surface and attach
by using rail bolts #19, washers #20 and brackets #28.
Note: See Detail B for correct orientation of
apron bracket. The bolts that hold brackets #28
need to only be finger tight. (See Figure 18, Detail C)
IMPORTANT NOTE: Use apron brackets #28 on the
two outside holes on each end rail #12 . Use apron
brackets #28 on the middle hole of each side rail #10
and #11 (See Figure 18, Detail B).
Top Rail Identifier
Figure 19