MosquitoBite Planes Robin User manual

Construction Manual
Read all Safety notes before proceeding with this Construction
Manual. It is recommended that the builder read this
Construction Manual in it’s entirety before building any portion
of the supplied kit.

A Word About Safety
• The Robin is a highly engineered kit that requires the modeller to follow exact instructions to complete the
kit properly. Failure to follow the instructions provided may result in loss or damage to the kit or to persons
and property. Take your time building this kit. Attention to detail is required in completing each section.
• Do not alter/modify this kit beyond its designed specifications. Over stressing the kit in any way (i.e. too
much power or too much weight), may result in unexpected behaviour when operating. This model kit can
travel very fast; you must operate it with care for the sake of yourself and others.
• Use quality components when installing radio equipment. Do not use damaged or modified servo/radio
equipment as this may result in improper or unsafe operation of this kit.
• Always perform a radio check before operating the engine. Be sure that all radio equipment is in perfect
operating condition. All clevis connections must have safety keepers to prevent loss of control.
• If the modeller building and/or flying this model airplane is not well experienced in how to perform a radio
check or perform any of the functions related to the safe construction and/or operation of this kit, then
he/she should first consult a MAAC/AMA recognized pilot for assistance.
• Note: As the manufacturer, we provide a high-quality product for modellers to build. Great consideration
has been given to the safe operation of this kit when built properly. However, the modeller building this kit is
completely responsible for the quality of the construction. By no means, implied or otherwise, is the
manufacturer responsible for the safe construction and operation of this kit. Safe operation and the safe use
of materials and tools is the responsibility of the builder.

IV MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Let Us Help You
During the construction or operation of this model airplane, if at
any time you are unclear about any part of the build process or
have questions on flight, CALL US FIRST. We cannot stress this
enough. Building this kit while unsure of any particular aspects of
this kit’s construction or operation may result in unwanted flight
behaviour.
Do not modify or alter this kit beyond what is instructed. If
alterations are attempted, you must consult with the designer
first so that impact to the design can be assessed.
We are always here to help. You may contact us at any time
through email, letter, or by phone (during business hours).
If Things Change
If you find there is a discrepancy in this Construction Manual
compared to information found on the plans, contact us for
clarification.
Shopping List
There are a few items you will need when building this kit:
• Lee Valley 2002 GF Cabinet Maker’s Wood Glue
• Thin CA Glue
• Epoxy Glue (12 min)
• 2 Rolls of UltraCote covering
• Dave Brown 46-50 Engine Mount
• OS .46AX Engine
• Engine Mounting Hardware
• Bisson Custom Muffler #1000
• APC 12x7 Propeller
• Fuel Tubing
• Throttle Cable
• DU-BRO Servo Arm Set
• 8oz Fuel Tank
• 21⁄2" Spinner
• 1⁄8" Fluxless Pipe Solder
• Hangar 9 Remote Glow Plug Adapter (preferred, not required)
• Clear Desk Tape
Definitions of Terms
“Dryfit” means to place a part into its position but not to apply
glue of any sort at this time.
Gluing Note:
Two types of glue will be used in the construction of this model.
When the manual instructs you to “glue", use WOOD GLUE. When
thin CA GLUE is required, the manual will specify.
Star Icon:
The STAR icon on laser-cut parts, always indicates the starboard
side of the part.
Starboard = Right hand side.
Port = Left hand side.
Important: Read
Read this Construction Manual first before starting. Familiarize
yourself with all aspects of the construction; then begin.
Model Weight
To achieve the target model weight of 112oz is recommended,
but not necessary. Those who wish to add remote glow
equipment, pumps, cameras, large batteries [etc...] can do so
without adverse effects (within reason). The scratch version of the
Robin was built light by design. Some materials used in this kit
differ from the original Robin for the sake of offering a true kit and
not a scratch-build project with ribs cut out. The result: build time
is now a fraction of what was once needed. But to get down to
112oz will take a conscious effort on the part of the modeller.
Below is a list of pointers to help get to that magical number.
Weight Saving List:
• Cover the plane in UltraCote Lite covering, Solarfilm or
equivalent light weight covering - cloth covering not supported.
• Sand the Fuselage and the tips of the tail surfaces round as
shown on the supplied plans. (More material at the rear of the
plane will require more ballast in the nose.)
• Carefully glue the Tail area only with necessary amounts of glue.
• Use the supplied tail wheel or a lighter foam wheel.
• Refrain from applying elaborate graphics to the tail of the plane.
• Use a prop weight inside the spinner to set CG further out.
• Apply ballast inside the lower cowl as instructed.
• Use standard servos in the Fuselage and Wing.
• Sand the undercarriage to the profile shown on the plans.
• Use specified 12x7 APC prop.
• Trim wing and undercarriage bolts 1/4" past threaded opening.
• Use supplied Push-Nuts for all wheel axles.
• Allow 1 week of drying before covering the plane.
• Cover the Wing & Fuselage when humidity is lowest.
• Install battery in forward half of receiver box.
Covering Weight Chart (referencing manufacture’s data)
Monokote - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 78.576 g/m2(white)
UltraCote/Oracover - - - - - - - - - - - 71.041 g/m2(Cub Yellow)
UltraCote/Oracover Lite - - - - - - - 36.597 g/m2(Trans. Yellow)
UltraCote/Oracover AIR (OD)- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~33 g/m2
Solarfilm- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 50-65 g/m2
SolarSpan- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 60-80 g/m2
LiteSpan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 30 g/m2
1 Roll of Monokote = 13 sqft. or 1.207 sqm (94.84g)
1 Roll of UltraCote = 12.916 sqft. or 1.200 sqm (43.91g)
Example: 2 Rolls of UltraCote Lite saves you 3.59oz (101.86g) over
standard Monokote.
Servo Weight:
Hitec HS-475HB - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 40g
Futaba S3004 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 37g
JR 537 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 45g
Airtronics 94102Z - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 45g
Electric conversion is possible but not supported by this manual
at this time. Check our website for developing information
regarding this.

MosquitoBite Planes Robin V
A Word About Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .III
Let Us Help You IV
If Things Change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .IV
Shopping List IV
Definitions of Terms IV
Important: Read IV
Model Weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .IV
Forward VI
A few notes from Andy Lennon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .VI
The Wing 1
Wing Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Assembling the Wing Cage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Installing Ribs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Constructing the Leading Edge Spar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Creating the Slot Lip (TE) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Creating the Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Creating the Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Sheeting the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Control Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Flap Hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Wing Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Aileron Hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Fuselage 9
Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Pre-Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Constructing the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Main Cage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Steering Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Elevator Cable Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Rudder Cable Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Connecting the Fuselage Sidewalls to the Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
The Tail Gear and Steering Arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Setting the Rudder Cable Position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Creating the Horizontal Stab (H.S.)/Elevator 18
Creating the Horizontal Stab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Creating the Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Elevator Horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Main Hatch 22
Forward Hatch Structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Aft. Hatch Structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Completing the Tail 26
Sheeting the Vertical Stab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
The Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Mass Balance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Building the Nose 30
The Upper Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
The Lower Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Sheeting the Lower Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Sheeting the Upper Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Main Landing Gear 35
Final Touches 36
Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Gluing the Snaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Setting Centre of Gravity (CG) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Engine and Muffler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Covering the Nose and Sealing the Lower Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Notes 37
Table of Contents

VI MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Forward
A few notes from Andy Lennon
The Robin is a versatile model airplane, with a wide speed range, that
can take off and land in either of two modes: the conventional mode or
the STOL mode (short take off and landing) – made possible by several
unique features which are described below. It is a “fun” airplane.
The wing features large slotted flaps that cover 65% of its trailing edge
and when extended 40 degrees, virtually double the lift of that 65% of
wing area. The wing’s airfoil is the Eppler E197. It’s aspect ratio (ratio of
span to chord) is 6. It has low profile drag and a gentle stall at 20
degrees AOA (angles of attack) out of ground effect. Its zero lift AOA is
minus 2 degrees.
Ahead of the ailerons, the E197 airfoil is modified to NASA development
leading edge extensions and droop that do three things: the stall is
delayed a further 9 degrees, aileron control at high angles of attack is
effective and there is no tip-stalling, important for STOL landings.
The fuselage, when the model is on its three wheels, is inclined upward
10 degrees. The wing is set at plus 2 degrees to the centreline and is
therefore at 12 degrees angle of attack; moving forward, the wing lift is
close to the maximum, but below the stall. With flaps half extended and
in ground effect, the stall is at 17 degrees. This permits the short take off.
The landing gear in conventional or “tail dragged”. With all three wheels
firmly on the ground, the model is directionally stable and is
maneuvered by the steerable tail wheel, linked to the rudder control.
With the tail wheel off the ground, however, the model is directionally
unstable; this calls for careful rudder action to prevent the model from
veering which it is prone to do!
The recommended power for the Robin is the OS MAX .46AX engine that
turns the recommended APC 12X7 prop at 10,000 rpm. producing thrust
estimated to equal the model’s fuelled weight. This provides a steep
climb. Minimum level flight speed, flaps fully extended, is 20 mph and 80
mph in full speed level flight, flaps up. For low drag, the engine is
enclosed in a ducted cowling. The lower half of this cowl is easily
removed and replaced for engine servicing, such as glow plug changes.
A remote jack permits glow plug lighting safely away from the lethal
prop. Engine cooling has not been a problem.
The horizontal tail is positioned low in the fuselage where it is in the
prop’s powerful slip stream. The elevators are 40% of the tail’s area and
when raised, cause the tail wheel to rest firmly on the ground under slip
stream pressure. To taxi, hold “up-elevator” which provides good steering
and prevents “noseovers” should the main wheels meet an obstruction
like long grass. The flaps, when extended, create considerable
turbulence. The large dorsal fin ahead of the vertical tail provides good
directional control despite the turbulence.
A 6 channel transmitter-receiver is recommended with a 3 position snap
switch for flap control: up, 20 degrees down, and 40 degrees down.
The ailerons have heavy differential (20 degrees up and 10 degrees down)
and are top hinged with modified Frise features that eliminate adverse
yaw. The model turns on ailerons alone without rudder input.
The Robin is spirally stable. Put in 20 degree bank and controls centred, it
will return to level flight on its own. It will fly inverted, but requires a
healthy amount of down elevator (inverted down elevator is up-elevator).
The two modes of take off are conventional and STOL. In the
conventional, the model is pointed upwind, flaps half extended, and the
throttle slowly opened. As the model accelerates, the tail comes up and
the directional instability raises its ugly head. Torque and gyroscopic
precession cause a swing to the left, calling for just the right amount of
rudder. Over control results in a swing to the right and danger of a
ground loop. This is not imaginary – it has happened! At 20 feet of
altitude, raise the flaps, level off, and the plane is up and away.
For the preferred STOL take off, point the model into the wind, lower half
flap, hold enough up elevator to keep the tail-wheel firmly on the
ground and open the throttle wide. On a calm day, take off run is under
4 feet; on a day with wind of 10 to 15 mph, the take off is almost
instantaneous followed by a steep climb. At 20 feet, raise the flaps, level
off and the plane is away. Directional control on the ground is good and
torque and gyroscopic precession are avoided.
There are two types of landing: the low wind STOL landing and the high
wind landing. On a low wind day, do not try to land flaps up. The glide is
fast and flat; overshooting the landing area is probable. Instead throttle
to idle, lower full flap; the added lift and drag permits steep approaches
at relatively low speeds. There is little or no change in the model’s
attitude with flaps lowered fully – just a noticeable reduction in speed.
The objective is to have all three wheels touch down simultaneously at a
speed just above the stall, which is (flaps fully down and in ground
effect) 14 degrees. At an AOA of 12 degrees, the plane is just below the
stall. Ground run 4 feet. This is when the “no tip-stall” feature is so
valuable. The wing area ahead of the flaps may be stalled but the two
outer panels are still lifting with effective aileron control.
On a windy day, land flaps up with a bit of power. A model flying at 30
mph into a wind of 15 mph has a ground speed of 15 mph. Rather than
a full stall landing, land on the main wheels first, closing the throttle to
idle just before touchdown.
The Robin will spin but very reluctantly; the spin has to be forced by full
up-elevator and full rudder offset. After 3 or 4 turns, the spin will convert
to a fast spiral dive, speeds of well over 100 mph are possible - the model
has low drag - so do not omit the mass balancing of the ailerons,
elevators and rudder which will prevent “flutter” at high speeds.
Enjoy the Robin and happy landings!
- AGL
In a later note, Andy offered more information about landing with
full flaps:
Lowering flaps while at altitude will create substantial downwash. The
downwash will hit the horizontal tail and influence it’s attitude. Pilots
must be careful to note that while landing with full flaps, you will
eventually come into ground effect. At that point, the downwash over
the horizontal tail will be reduced due to the pressure from the ground.
The Robin will pitch down slightly as the downwash pressure eases off
the horizontal tail, so pilots should be ready for it when approaching
with full flaps.

MosquitoBite Planes Robin 1
The Wing
Wing Construction
Glue and clamp together Main Centre Spar layers, to create the
laminated Main Centre Spar and Rear Centre Spar. Leave to dry.
The three pieces that make up the Main Centre Spar must be
glued together very precisely. Each of the 3 pieces have a slight
lengthwise curve. Ensure the insides of the curves face each other
(this cancels out any over-all curve) and glue together.
Repeat this method to laminate the two layers of the Rear Centre
Spar and the two layers of the Wing Bolt Beam.
Assembling the Wing Cage
The gluing of the Wing Cage must be done quite rapidly.
Therefore, we suggest you familiarize yourself with the Cage
assembly by dryfitting the following pieces as shown in Figure 1
• Main Centre Spar - 3 parts
• Rear Centre Spar - 2 parts
• Wing Servo Tray
• Rib A (x2)
• Wing Bolt Beam - 2 parts
If any parts are too snug, perform minimal sanding.
Disassemble and continue with these gluing instructions:
Along the front and back edges of the Wing Servo Tray, run a line
of glue. Immediately connect the Main Centre Spar to the Tray’s
front, and the Rear Centre Spar to the Tray’s back.
Glue the rear edge of the Wing Bolt Beam and install in place
along the front of the Main Centre Spar.
Run a line of glue along both side edges of the Wing Servo Tray,
and along the sides edges of the Wing Bolt Beam.
Slide Rib A along the Spars. The letter “A” on each Rib, should both
be facing the Wing Servo Tray. Connect both Rib A parts into the
tabs of the Wing Servo Tray and the Wing Bolt Beam.
Before the Wing Cage cures, place a heavy weight in the centre of
the Wing Servo Tray to ensure all parts dry flat and square.
Fig 1

2 MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Installing Ribs
Place Main Spar upside down on its top edge. Along side it, place
a 3⁄8" x 3⁄16" stick - wide side down. Dryfit Rib B into the first slot so
that it holds the balsa stick against the Main Spar. See Figure 2.
Note: In Figure 2, Rib B and the Main Spar are shown upside
down, as constructed. Also note that the end of the stick must
extend slightly past the end of the Main Spar. This will be
trimmed later.
Continue to dryfit Ribs C to J.
Dryfit the remaining 3
/ 8" x 3 / 16" stick along the Main Spar. Glue with
thin CA, the upper and lower sticks along the Main Spar. (Using
wood glue here would warp the wing due to its moisture
content.) Watch the Main Spar doesn’t develop a curve.
Repeat instructions to create the opposite side of the wing.
(Be careful not to make two left wings.)
Constructing the Leading Edge Spar
Locate Rib F1. (half a rib)
Install Rib F1 against the forward half of Rib F, between
Ribs F and E.
To install Leading Edge Spar, you must first ensure that all ribs are
evenly spaced. Therefore, use the Rear Spar as a tool and dryfit
the Rear Spar into the rear slots of all ribs. Then place the other
Rear Spar over the leading edge of all Ribs to ensure the spacing
is correct. See Figure 3.
Do note Glue the Rear Spars yet.
Glue (wood glue) a 3
/ 16" square stick to the leading edges of Ribs F
to J. Use masking tape to hold the stick in place while glue cures.
Remove the two temporary Rear Spars.
Once the leading edge’s stick has cured, remove the tape.
Repeat for the opposite side of the wing.
Fig 2
Fig 3
F1

MosquitoBite Planes Robin 3
Glue Rib G1 on the outboard side of Rib G.
Dryfit the upper and the lower 1
/ 4" x 1 / 8" sticks into the slots of
every Rib behind the Rear Spar. (See Plan Sheet 2)
Glue two Aileron Cable Anchors into the slots of Rib G1 as shown
in Figure 4.
Trim flush the sticks that protrude from the inboard upper and
lower Main Spar and Rear Spar, as shown in Figure 5.
Repeat the “Constructing the Leading Edge Spar” instructions to
create the opposite side of the wing.
Test the connection of each Wing-side to the Wing Cage,
as shown in Figures 6 and 7.
Glue the Wings to the Wing Cage in all places where contact is made.
Using thin CA, glue the Rear Spar and its upper and lower balsa
sticks in place.
Glue both Flap Cable Anchors into Rib D. They line up with the
hole on the Rear Spar. Repeat for the opposite side of the wing.
Apply a bead of glue to the joint of each Rib and Main Spar as
well as to the joint of each Rib and Rear Spar.
Dryfit a 3
/ 16" square stick to the leading edge of each Wing from
Rib A to F1(the half-rib). See plan sheet 2 for details.
Use masking tape to hold each stick in place while glue cures.
Slide Rib G1 in
Fig 4
Fig 5
Fig 7
Fig 6

4 MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Locate all eight Flap Support Arms.
Glue two Flap Support Arms to either side of Rib C and to either
side of Rib E as shown in Figure 8.
Before the glue cures, use a 3
/ 32" wire to align the hinge holes as
shown in Figure 9. Repeat for the opposite side of the wing.
Fig 8 Fig 9
Fig 10
Aileron Horn Aileron Rib
Creating the Slot Lip (TE)
Locate the Trailing Edge Stock (3 / 16" x 3 / 4"). Cut two pieces,
each 22" long.
Apply glue to the trailing edge of Rib A to Rib G on both sides of
the Wing, and install both pieces of Trailing Edge Stock.
Clamp until cured.
Creating the Ailerons
Locate two Aileron Base Sheets, eight Aileron Ribs, two Aileron
Horns, two Aileron Spars and two Aileron Top Sheets.
Build both Ailerons at the same time (facing each other) to
prevent making two left Ailerons.
On the Base Sheets, position the Aileron Ribs and Aileron Horns in
their slots. See Figure 10.
Dryfit the Aileron Spar into the End Slots of all Aileron Ribs and
Aileron Horns.
Making sure not to glue the Spar, apply thin CA to the base of all
the Aileron Ribs and Aileron Horns. (We don’t want to glue the
spar in yet.)
Remove the Spar and apply wood glue to the Aileron Ribs and to
the short edges of the Aileron Horns. Replace the Aileron Spar.
(Note: Ensure that no wood glue contacts the Aileron Base Sheet
to avoid warping.)

MosquitoBite Planes Robin 5
Position each Aileron at the edge of a table and use a sanding
block to sand the edge of the Aileron Base Sheet to a fine point.
Locate the two Aileron Top Sheets.
Dryfit each Top Sheet along the upper tabs of the Aileron
Ribs/Horn.
Wick thin CA glue into the tabs of each Aileron Rib/Horn. (Note:
To avoid a twisted Aileron, hold the assembly down on a flat
surface as CA glue is applied.)
Once the Top Sheet has cured, sand the trailing edge to almost a
fine point. Cover Aileron with Ultracote and install the Mass
Balance along the full width of the Aileron. See Plan Sheet 2.
Creating the Flaps
Locate two Flap Base Sheets, eight Flap Ribs, two Flap Horns, four
Flap Horn Supports and four Flap Pivot Ribs.
Build both Flaps at the same time to prevent making two
left Flaps.
On the Base Sheets, dryfit the Flap Ribs in their slots as seen on
Plans Sheet 2. Use thin CA to glue in place.
Into the centre set of slots, dryfit the Flap Horn with Flap Horn
Supports on either side. Use thin CA to glue in place.

Dryfit Flap Pivot Ribs into the two remaining slots, then dryfit
both Flap assemblies into the trailing edge of the Wing so that
the Flap Pivot Ribs drop into the Flap Support Arms, as shown in
Figure 11.
Using thin CA, glue the back tab of each Flap Pivot Rib and just
the rear portion of each Flap Pivot Rib. Be sure no glue contacts
the Flap Support Arms. When glue cures, remove both Flap
assemblies and complete the gluing of each Flap Pivot Rib.
Sand the top side of each Flap trailing edge to a fine point – in
the same fashion as done with the Ailerons. See Plan Sheet 2.
Cut a sheet of 1
/ 16" balsa sheeting the length of the Flap, by 31⁄2".
Lay the Flap upside down on top of the 1
/ 16" sheeting. Position the
sheeting 1⁄4" past the Flap Base Sheet. Use thin CA to glue along
the trailing edge.
When the trailing edge has cured, sneak a drop of CA on top of
each Rib while still working on a flat surface.
Rock the Flap forward until the Flap Horn contacts the top
sheeting. Mark the sheeting on either side of the Flap Horn to
indicate the Horn Opening.
Cut a small slot (about 1
/ 2" long) out of the sheeting to allow the
Horn to emerge. See Figure 12.
Use clamps on the leading edge of every Rib to hold the sheeting
against the Flap Base Sheet.
Now is the time to manually adjust the Flap to remove any
warping caused by handling.
Use thin CA to glue the leading edge of the Flap. Remove clamps
when glue has cured.
Sand the leading edge of each Flap to match the profile on Plans
Sheet 2.
Cover the main Flap Surface with Ultracote. Do not cover the
Pivot Rib.
6 MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Fig 11
CA Glue
CA glue trailing edge
Sneak in CA
Fig 12

MosquitoBite Planes Robin 7
Test fit the Flap in its position on the Wing. If the hole in the Flap
Pivot Rib and the Flap Support Arm do not line up, sand the
underside of the trailing edge stock to allow more room for the
Flap to enter. (See Figure 13)
Sand and profile the Flap Support Arms to match the profile
shown on Plan Sheet 2.
Locate the 8 Sheeting Supports. (See Plan Sheet 2.) Glue them
onto the sides of each Flap Support Arm. (See Figure 13)
Sand Trailing Edge
Sheeting Supports
Fig 13
Sheeting the Wing
The sheeting of the Wing is done using common methods. There
are, however, some details that need addressing. Refer to Plan
sheet 2 for details.
To begin, cut a strip of 1
/ 16" sheeting wide enough to cover the top
of the Rear Spar and to butt up against the Slot Lip TE stock. This
goes the full length of each side of the Wing. Let the sheeting
hang over to give support for the Lower Aileron Sheeting (A).
For the Lower Aileron section, cut and glue on a strip of sheeting
(B). Shave the edge of this sheeting to best fit the profile (C).
Before sheeting the Lower Wing (Flap section), we will make
some supports; cut strips of 1
/ 16" balsa (the height about 1 / 2 " - see
Plan Sheet 2) to snugly fit between the rear of each Rib. (D) Use
thin CA to glue in place.
To sheet the Lower Wing (Flap section), measure and cut 1
/ 16" balsa
to fit around the Flap Supports. See Plan Sheet 2 for sheeting
width. Glue on with thin CA. (See E.)
A small insert is needed for support. Cut a long, thin section of
sheeting. (See Figure 15 on next page.) Glue in with thin CA.
Fig 14
Wing shown inverted.
A
B
C
D
The remainder of the Wing is sheeted in the traditional fashion:
D-tube and cap strips with 1 / 16" balsa, according to Plan Sheet 2.
E

Control Cables
The supplied cables should be distributed as follows: Two 36"
cable/sleeves are for the Rudder and Elevator. Each 48"
cable/sleeve = 1 Aileron and 1 Flap for one side of the Wing.
Install an empty 48" Sleeve into the Aileron cable path, and trim.
The remainder is for the Flap control. Do not cut both 48" cables
the same - the port side of the wing is a longer cable length.
You will have to make an opening in the Lower Aileron section of
the Wing’s sheeting for the Cable to exit. (See Figure. 16)
Flap Hinges
With a hobby rail saw, cut the supplied brass tubing and the 3⁄32"
rod to make the 4 sets of hinges. Each tube length = the width of
the Flap Pivot Rib. (When cutting these tubes, leave a little extra -
and sand the edges clean - Figure 17.) Each rod length should be
1⁄4" long. Insert the tube into the Flap Pivot Rib. The rod goes
through the tube, after the Flap is installed.
Install the 1⁄16" balsa Fairings. Once glued in place, sand to the
profile shown on Plan Sheet 2. To secure the brass tube joints in
place, cover the Flap Support Arms with Ultracote.
Wing Tips
Locate the supplied Wingtips. These are extra deep to allow
trimming. Install the Wingtips over the Wing Tip Ribs and glue
with epoxy. Trim and sand the WTR inside face. Study Plan Sheet
2 for positioning of the WTR and the Wing Tips.
Do not attempt to cover the Wing Tips, they will deform from the
heat. Paint them instead, and then Install.
Install all Wing Servos and test all Flaps and Ailerons. (Temporarily
use desk tape to attach the Ailerons) Make sure everything
operates smoothly. Once everything is in check, cover the Wing.
Aileron Hinges
After the Wing has been fully covered, create the Aileron Hinges.
These will be made of Ultracote. With an Aileron fully deflected
down, iron a long thin strip of covering across the joint of the
Wing and the Aileron. To prevent binding, allow a small gap
between the Aileron and the Wing, remembering that the gap
will shrink when the covering is heated.
Next, fully deflect the Aileron up. Iron a long thin strip of covering
across the inside edge of the Wing and Aileron, making sure this
strip makes contact with the top covering in the middle.
8 MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Fig 15
Fig 16
Fig 17
Flap
Pivot
Rib
Flap
Support
Arm
Fairing

MosquitoBite Planes Robin 9
Fuselage
Locate the following:
• Battery Box Walls
• Battery Box Floor
• Firewalls: F2A and F2B
• Formers: F3B to F13
• Fuselage Bolt Plates, three A & two B parts.
• Undercarriage Mounts, A and B
• Side Support Walls
• Main Servo Tray
• Airvent Sidewalls, two A & two B parts.
• Fuel Tank Floor
• Fuselage Sidewalls
• Fuselage Floor
• Hatch Bolt Assembly
• Wing Saddle Doublers
• Two Hatch Hooks
• Tail Steering Block Parts
Constructing the Fuselage
Locate both parts of the Firewall - Formers F2A and F2B.
Place F2A and F2B back to back . The writing on both formers
should face outward.
Glue and clamp these together, ensuring all holes are aligned.
F2B is intentionally wider and taller than F2A. Set aside to cure.
Main Cage
Locate the three parts of the Battery Box. Refer to Figure 18: Glue
the Battery Box sides to the floor.
Locate Formers F5B and F6A.
Apply glue to the inside edges of both F5B and F6A.
Insert the Battery Box through them. (F6A goes nearest the upper
hooks on the Battery Box.) Lift the Battery Box up into position
and push out the Box walls to fit onto the tabs of the Formers,
F5B and F6A.
Hardware
4 Cable with Sleeve, Steering Arm, and 2
Clevises.
Pre-Assembly
The Fuselage Sidewalls and Floor need to be
pre-assembled as shown below. Ensure that
both Sidewalls are perfectly identical to each
other before using.
Fig 18

10 MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Locate the Fuselage Bolt Plates, three A and two B parts.
Sandwich one B part between both A parts and test fit this
laminated beam into the top slots of F5B before applying glue.
Use lots of glue to laminate all three beams altogether and glue
them into the slots along the top of F5B as shown in Figure 19.
Glue the long edge of the laminated Beam and the edges of the
Battery Box and install F5A on these glued edges. Use large pliers
to coax the top of F5A to connect with the Beam properly.
Laminate the remaining two Fuselage Bolt Plates, one A and one
B. With lots of glue, install this laminated Bolt Beam to the back of
F6A.
Glue the long edge of this last laminated beam and the edges of
the Battery Box and then install F6B. Use pliers to coax the top of
F6B to connect with the Beam.
Locate the Undercarriage Mounts, A and B, and the two Side
Support Walls.
Glue Mounts A and B face to face, making sure the holes are in
perfect alignment.
Before the glue cures, glue in place the Side Support Walls, as
shown in Figure 20.
Apply glue to the edge of the Undercarriage Mount (the edge
opposite the holes) and to the edges of the Side Support Walls.
Install this into the lower slots on F5A. See Figure 21.
A
B
Fig 19
Fig 20
Fig 21

MosquitoBite Planes Robin 11
Locate Main Servo Tray.
Glue it into the slots midway up F5A, as shown in Figure 22.
Apply glue to the exposed edges of the Undercarriage Mount,
the Side Support Walls and the Main Servo Tray.
Install F4 on these glued edges.
Before glue cures, temporarily dryfit the whole assembly into
the slots of both Fuselage Sidewalls and Fuselage Floor - ensuring
all parts cure in perfect alignment. See Figure 23.
Locate the Airvent Sidewalls. (two “A” and two “B” parts)
Glue each A to a B, keeping the centre holes aligned.
Glue each laminated Airvent Sidewall into the slots on F3B, as
shown in Figure 24. (Parts A are closest to the F3B centre hole.)
On both Airvent Sidewalls, apply glue to the long edges that
sport tabs, and install the Fuel Tank Floor as shown in Figure 25.
Fig 22
Fig 23
Fig 24 Fig 25
Fuel Tank Floor

Remove the Fuselage Sidewalls & Floor from the main structure.
Locate a 3
/ 8" square stick. Install it vertically down between the
edges of F5A and F5B. Trim the lower part of the stick to match
the Formers’ diagonally cut bottoms.
At the top, you must cut out part of the stick to match the
Former shape as well. Repeat for the opposite side.
Repeat this process again between F6A and F6B. See Figure 26
which shows only the right side done between the two sets of
Formers.
Using tape, temporarily install F3A. Glue both Fuselage Sidewalls
onto the Formers assembly. Turn on its side and apply weight.
Allow time for curing.
Apply glue to the rear edge of the Fuel Tank Floor and to the two
side edges of F3B.
Plug the end of the Fuel Tank Floor into F4 while fitting F3B into
the Fuselage Sidewalls as shown in Figure 27.
Locate F7 and the four pieces for the Hatch Bolt Assembly (HB1, HB2
and 2x HB3)
Glue face to face, HB1 and HB2 ensuring the bolt holes are
aligned. This is your Bolt Plate.
Glue the Bolt Plate into both HB3 parts.
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you attach the Hatch Bolt Assembly to
the correct side of F7. It must attach to the forward side of F7. See
Figure 28. or see Plan Sheet 1. Glue only when you are certain.
12 MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Fig 26
Fig 27
Fig 28

Glue the edges of F7 and install into the Fuselage Sidewalls. The
Hatch Bolt Assembly must be pointing forward and be at the top.
See Figure 29.
If your Fuel Tank Floor has cured into F4, it is time to glue the
laminated Firewall to the forward end of the Fuel Tank Floor.
Apply glue to the end of the Fuel Tank Floor. (Note: We are NOT
gluing the Fuselage Sidewalls to the Firewall until the Firewall has
cured to the Fuel Tank Floor.)
Now attach the Firewall to the end of the Fuel Tank Floor. Clamp
well enough to allow handling.
Locate the two Wing Saddle Doublers.
Dryfit them into position (along the inside of the Fuselage, top)
and glue with thin CA. See Figure 30.
When the Fuel Tank Floor has cured with the Firewall, glue along
the side edges of the Firewall and press Fuselage Sidewalls onto
the tabs of the Firewall. Clamp until glue cures.
When the Firewall sides have cured, cut two pieces of 1
/ 2" x 3 / 16"
balsa about 10" long each.
Slide each piece along the upper inside of the Fuselage Sidewall,
starting at the Firewall, and butting up against F4.
Trim each stick flush with the firewall. See Figure 31. Use thin CA
to secure each stick in place.
Cut two more 1
/ 2" x 3 / 16" wide sticks of balsa, each about 21 / 4" long.
Shape each piece to fit snugly between the forward end of the
Wing Saddle Doubler and the recently installed stick, as shown in
Figure 32. Repeat for the opposite side.
Locate the two Hatch Hooks and glue into the rear slots of F2B.
The curved corner of each Hatch Hook must be along the
bottom side. See Figure 33 & Plan Sheet 1.
MosquitoBite Planes Robin 13
Fig 29
Fig 30
Fig 31
Trim flush
Fig 32
Fig 33

Steering Block
Locate F8 and F9. Apply glue to their side edges. Install each
between the Fuselage Sidewalls, making sure that the “Star” is on
the starboard side. Clamp until glue cures.
Refer to diagram on Plan Sheet 1 for the Tail Steering Block and
assemble it with wood glue. Be sure to glue the assembly on the
back side of F10. When glue is cured, Install F10 into position. See
Figure 34.
Glue the sides of F11B. The side hole goes on the starboard side.
Install and clamp until cured. Temporarily dryfit the Fuselage
Floor; this will ensure F11B cures at the correct angle. Remove
when F11B has cured.
Elevator Cable Sleeve
Lay the supplied 36" Cable Sleeve on the plans and cut the
Elevator Sleeve to length. Install this in the hole of F5A on the
port side as shown in Figure 35.
This Sleeve must follow the Elevator Cable Path shown on Plan
Sheet 1. Glue in place with thin CA. See Figure 36.
Rudder Cable Sleeve
Lay the supplied 36" Cable Sleeve on the plans and cut the
forward (longest) Rudder Sleeve to length. Install this in the
starboard hole of F5A, and guide it along the Rudder Cable Path
shown on Plan Sheet 1. Glue this forward section of Rudder
Sleeve in place with thin CA. See Figure 36.
Install three Servos into the Fuselage Servo Tray, in the orientation
shown in Figure 35 and Plan Sheet 1 .
Trim to length the small, remaining section of Cable Sleeve for
the Rudder Cable/Tail Wheel, and dryfit it, as shown on Plan
Sheet 1. It exits through the Fuselage Sidewall; see Figures 36 and
37 to help guide you in creating this opening.
Install the full 36" of Rudder Cable Wire.
Use thin CA to glue the remaining Rudder Cable Sleeve in place.
14 MosquitoBite Planes Robin
Fig 34
Fig 35
Elevator Cable Rudder Cable
F11B
Fig 36
Fig 37
F11B