Olymberyl HF217-SE Baby Gabriel User manual

Model HF217-SE Baby Gabriel
Smoke Exempted Free-standing
Wood Burning Non-Boiler Stove
Instruction Manual
www.hi-flame.com
You will need to refer to the serial number of your stove
shown above should you ever need to make a claim under
the Olymberyl Warranty. You will also find the serial number,
beginning with HF, on the CE plate at the rear of the stove as
well as on the lid of the outer packaging.
Write the date the stove was delivered to you below as this is
likely to differ from the purchase date.
- -
Authorised Olymberyl®
Distributors
UK Mainland – including England,
Wales, Scotland and the Isle of Man
Hi-Flame Fireplace (UK) Limited
Holmes Chapel Business Park
Manor Lane, Holmes Chapel
Cheshire
CW4 8AF
Northern Ireland
Timber and Tile Products Limited
Carnbane Industrial Estate
Springhill Road
Newry
County Down
BT35 6QJ
Republic of Ireland
The Stove Yard
RPG Industries Limited
Kiltonga Industrial Estate
Old Belfast Road
Newtwonards
County Down
BT23 4TJ www.hi-flame.com
© Olymberyl 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2010. All
rights reserved. Booklet contents may not be copied in
whole or in part without the prior written permission
of the copyright holder. Olymberyl® and Gabriel® are
the original trading and registered names of Hi-Flame
Fireplace (UK) Limited
®
® ®
Published December 2010
Please note This appliance has been independently tested
and approved by DEFRA as an ‘exempted appliance’ to allow
the burning of wood in designated UK Smoke Control Areas.
It must, at all times, be operated in accordance with the
instructions to minimise the amount of smoke produced.
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Ref: HF217-SE / UK-NI-ROI / V1.1-12-10

PACKING LIST
As soon as you receive your new stove
please check that you have a full set of
components as set out in the list below.
In the unlikely event of a shortage,
please report this immediately to the
dealer you bought the stove from.
Never atttempt to operate the stove
with missing or damaged components.
Product Information
1 Instruction Booklet
1 Warranty Card
Stove Components
4 Legs
6 30mm Leg Fixing Bolts (2 spare)
6 Leg Fixing Bolt Washers (2 spare)
4 Leg Height Adjustment Bolts
1 Handle Cover
1 Handle Cover Securing Bolt
3 Log Retaining Bars
Equipment
1 Ashpan
1 Operating Tool
Tool Bag
1 Safety Mitten
2 Spare Glass Retaining Clips
2 Spare Glass Retaining Clip Screws
1 Spare Rope Seal (for door)
1 Allen key (for door hinges)
CONTENTS
2
41
3
5
IMPORTANT
In the interests of safety please
read these instructions carefully
before installing or operating
your new stove. Even if you have
installed or operated stoves before,
manufacturer’s requirements can
vary and can also change with
updates to building regulations.
If installed in a UK Smoke Control
Area this stove must be operated
in accordance with the instructions
to minimise the amount of smoke
produced.
STANDARD FEATURES
1 Primary Air Control Air which enters
under the grate used for helping to get
a wood fire started
2 Secondary Air Control Air which
enters at the top of the fire chamber
to ensure a cleaner burn and effective
wood burning
3 Airwash System Part of the
secondary air control system which
diverts hot air down along the front of
the glass to burn off unwanted sooty
particulates and help keep it clean
4 External Riddling
Grate With open /
shut grate feature
to allow maximise
Primary air flow
at the critical pre-fire
stage
5 Top or Rear Flue
Option Simple to
switch depending
on the type of
installation
5
2 3
Page
2
3
4
5
6
6
7
9
10
11
12
12
13
17
18
20
24
24
29
29
30
32
32
34
35
Packing List
Standard Features
Dimensions
Technical Data
Introduction
Important Safety Advice
Assembling the Stove
Installation Regulations
Recommended Fuels
Prohibited Fuels
Important: First Firings
Understanding Fuel Types
Burning Wood Logs
Some Simple Tips
Installation Check-list
Installation General Guidelines
Commissioning
Trouble-shooting
Routine Checks
Standing Down
Routine Maintenance
Spare Parts
Olymberyl® Warranty
Annual Service
Service Record

414
435
555
95
134
345
134
134
ø
All dimensions are in mm
TECHNICAL DATA
General Specification
Model Name Baby Gabriel®
Model Number HF217-SE
Overall Height 555 mm
Overall Width 414 mm
Overall Depth 345 mm
Net Weight 83 kg
Gross Weight (packed) 91 kg
Data from CE Test EN13240
Fuel Wood Logs
Nominal Heat Output 4.6 kW
Refuelling Interval 45 minutes
Efficiency (net) 75%
Mean CO Emission (at 13%) 0.25
Mean Flue Gas Temperature 290ºC
Flue Gas Mass Flow 4.5 g/s
Minimum Distance to Combustibles
Rear 450 mm
Sides 350 mm
Fuel Requirements
Wood Logs: Moisture content <20%
Maximum Log Length 250 mm
Max Fuel Load 1.5 kg
Max Log length 250 mm
4 5
Flue
Flue configuration top or rear
Flue pipe diameter 125 mm
Height to centre of rear flue 435 mm
From centre of top flue to back 134 mm
DIMENSIONS

INTRODUCTION
Thank-you for purchasing the
Olymberyl® Baby Gabriel® stove.
We are confident that it will warm
your home even on the coldest
winter days and provide you with
many years of pleasure.
Before you install or operate your
stove however, please read this
booklet which contains important
safety advice as well as instructions
which will help you make the most
of your new stove.
All users of this stove should be
aware of the contents of this
handbook. If other people are going
to operate the stove then please
keep this booklet handy so that it
can always be quickly referred to.
Never let anyone use the stove who
is unfamiliar with its correct
operation.
IMPORTANT SAFETY ADVICE
• Ensure that an approved carbon
monoxide detector (BS EN50291:2001)
is fitted in the same room as the stove.
It should be powered by a battery
designed for the working life of the
alarm. Please note that since October
2010 this is now a requirement under
UK Building Regulations.
• External surfaces including the fire
chamber door and operating handles,
windows, flue pipes and stove
bodywork will become extremely hot.
Always use the tool provided and avoid
touching these parts of the stove
without proper protection, such as heat
resistant gloves or other protective aids.
• Potentially combustible material or
objects such as soft furnishings should
never be left on or near any of the
stove’s hot surfaces. Ensure that wood
supplies and log baskets are kept at a
safe distance from the stove.
• Never leave children unattended in
the room where your stove is being
operated. Ensure that children are
aware of the potential danger and make
sure that they keep clear of the stove
when it is in operation. Where children,
the elderly or the infirm are present
always use an approved safety fireguard
(BS6539) to prevent accidental contact
with the stove.
• This stove should not be fitted in a
room with an extractor fan (eg kitchen)
as this will adversely effect the air
quality in the room and could be
dangerous for the room’s occupants. It
will also starve the stove of combustion
air and reduce the stove’s efficiency.
• To ensure your safety make sure that
your stove’s installation complies with
all local building regulations’ ventilation
requirements. Low energy houses have
their own particular requirements and
should be strictly adhered to.
• Do not use flammable liquids to ignite
the fire. In the confined space of the
fire chamber there is a real potential to
cause a life-threatening flash flame or
explosion.
• Never over-fire the stove. If any
external parts of your stove glow red
during operation then immediate action
should be taken to reduce the supply
of air to the fire chamber through the
Primary and Secondary air controls
which should quickly limit the intensity
of the fire.
• This stove is CE approved and tested
to EU EN13240 standards in the United
Kingdom by GASTEC at CRE of Stoke
Orchard, Gloucestershire. Alterations
to its construction could be potentially
dangerous and will render your product
warranty void.
• Do not use aerosol products in the
vicinity of the stove when it is in use.
• Check and clean the stove’s flue way
and the top of baffle plate regularly to
help avoid potential blockages.
• Clean your chimney regularly (see
page 33).
ASSEMBLING THE STOVE
Your new cast iron stove is extremely
heavy. Always handle with care and
make sure that you have additional
strong help when you move it.
The ash lip on the Baby Gabriel® is
factory fitted and, along with the door
and door handle, should not be used
to grip the stove as they could be
damaged from supporting the stove’s
weight. Items, such as fuel retaining
bars, can be removed to help reduce
the weight. Under no circumstances
should the door be removed as this will
invalidate your Olymberyl® Warranty.
• Unpack Remove your new stove from
its recyclable packaging. Retain this
until the stove is installed and is fully
operational. Unfasten retaining wires
and remove any components, including
those inside the ash pan, from inside
the stove
• Inspect Please inspect the stove to
check that it has not been damaged in
transit – never attempt to install a stove
which has been damaged. If damage is
suspected then report this immediately
to your stove dealer
• Check List Study the component
check list on page 2 and make sure that
you have all of the components listed
before proceeding. Some components
are contained within the ash pan
• Baffle Plate Check the position of
the baffle plate (sometimes known as
the throat plate) inside the ‘roof’ of the
stove to ensure that it has not moved
during transit. This is a heavy metal
plate which directs flames and helps
6 7

retain heat inside the stove. The base of
this plate should sit securely on a small
ledge at the back of the fire chamber,
towards the top. The rest of the plate is
supported by two additional retaining
lugs at the top middle of the side
firebricks to maintain it at the correct
angle and in line with the top of these
side firebricks. It is best to fully
familiarise yourself with the baffle
plate’s correct location by practising
removing it and re-fitting it prior to the
stove’s installation as you will need to
regularly check the top of this plate
and the access to the flue way to avoid
potential soot build up and blockages.
Once you know how to do this it is a
very easy operation. See page 30
• Legs Gently lay the stove on its back
to access the base. Use old carpet or
cushions to prevent damage to the back
of the stove. Remove the four bolts at
each corner of the base of the stove.
These are to protect the leg bolt hole
threads during the production process.
Use machine oil to lubricate the leg
bolts before fitting each of the legs. The
washer is fitted between the bolt head
and leg flange. Do not over-tighten
these bolts as this will damage the cast
iron.
Return the stove to the upright position
being careful to help ease the weight
and pressure on the rear legs. Do not
drag the stove once the legs have been
fitted. Always lift the stove to finally
position it. Alternatively it may be
possible to place the stove on heavy
duty plastic sheeting or thick floor
covering to slide the stove into
position, being careful not to damage
any finished floor surfaces with trapped
grit or building debris.
• Flue Options The HF217-SE stove is
delivered already configured for a rear
fitted 125mm (5”) flue pipe but can
easily be switched to the top fitting
flue option. To do this remove the ‘hob’
from the lid of the stove by unscrewing
the two bolts. Always use the correct
sized Phillips crosshead screwdriver
and be careful not to damage the bolt
heads as these will be re-used. This
cover and sealing gasket can now be
re-used as a blanking plate to seal the
rear flue aperture once the flue collar
has also been removed.
Ensure that the rope gasket is
positioned correctly to make a good
all-round seal between the collar and
plate. Lubricate the new bolt holes with
machine oil to avoid damaging the cast
iron threads. Heat-resistant cement may
also be required to ensure an adequate
seal between the stove and
components.
• Handle Assembly Thread the split
washer along the handle bolt. Feed the
bolt and washer through the handle
grip. Use a Phillips crosshead
screwdriver to attach the assembled
grip to the door handle clamp
mechanism on the door, being careful
not to over-tighten.
Your stove is now ready for installation.
INSTALLATION
REGULATIONS
You must ensure that your stove is
installed by a recognised competent
person who is appropriately qualified in
the installation of stoves and that the
installation complies with all local and
national building regulations.
In the UK we strongly recommend using
a Hetas registered installer (www.hetas.
co.uk) and in Ireland a registered
installer from INFO – the Irish
Nationwide Fireplace Organisation
(www.fireplace.ie). Your authorised
Olymberyl® dealer will also be able to
help and advise you.
Further information on local Building
Regulations:
England & Wales
Building Regulations Document J
(revised October 2010) – Combustion
Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems
www.planningportal.gov.uk
Scotland
Building Standards (2001) Domestic
www.sbsa.gov.uk
Northern Ireland
The Building Regulations (Northern
Ireland) 2000 / Amendment 2006 /
Amendment No 2 2006
www.buildingcontrol-ni.com
Isle of Man
Building Regulations (2007) – Isle of
Man
www.gov.im
Republic of Ireland
Approved Document J – Heat Producing
Appliances
www.environ.ie
Other Information Points
For additional useful information and
links to the government websites
above, including informative down-
loads, visit The Solid Fuel Technology
Institute website www.soliftec.com.
The Solid Fuel Association website is
also a very good source of practical
information and downloads
www.solidfuel.co.uk.
The British Flue and Chimney
Manufacturers Association website,
accessed through www.feta.co.uk/
bfcma, produces an authoritative and
informative download Yellow Guide to
solid fuel flues and chimneys.
Buildings Insurance
It is a requirement by some building
insurance companies to inform them of
the installation of a new fixed heating
appliance and a relevant certificate of
compliance produced.
Health & Safety
During the installation of this stove and
any related building works you must
comply with any current Health
& Safety at Work regulations.
8 9

RECOMMENDED FUELS
Please note If you live in a UK Smoke
Control Area you must only burn
approved smokeless fuels. The Baby
Gabriel HF217-SE stove is approved by
DEFRA as an ‘exempted appliance’ to
allow the burning of wood in
designated UK Smoke Control Areas.
It must, at all times, be operated in
accordance with the instructions to
minimise the amount of smoke
produced. For more information please
visit www.smokecontrol.defra.gov.uk.
The following fuels are approved by
Olymberyl®:
• Wood Logs Wet or unseasoned
(green) wood will cause nuisance smoke
– never use it.
It could quickly result in the build up of
soot and creosote which, because of
the higher temperatures of stove flue
gases, could easily cause a flue or
chimney fire. In addition burning wet
wood creates other environmental
problems, a less efficient fuel economy
and can eventually clog your flue
system and cowl. It will also reduce the
effectiveness of the stove’s Airwash
system thus causing staining and
blackening of the glass.
Wet or unseasoned would produces the
following poor performance:
• Hard to light fires
• Fires that are difficult to keep going
or to keep burning well
• Smoky fires with fewer flames which
are also of a dull orange colour
• Increased dense grey / blue smoke
from the chimney
• Shorter burn times
• Low heat output
• Dirty glass and firebricks
• Excessive and rapid creosote build-up
in the flue system and chimney
• Unpleasant smoky smells both inside
and sometimes outside the house
Manufactured or finished wood
products, such as plywood and
chipboard, must also be avoided
because of the high chemical adhesive
content used in their production which
will also leave harmful residue inside the
stove and flue system.
Only ever use dried, fully seasoned
chopped wood logs with a moisture
content of less than 20%.
Wood which is well seasoned makes
a distinctive ‘clack’ rather than a dull
‘thud’ when knocked together. It will
also feel much lighter than an
unseasoned log. Other indicators
include bark peeling away and cracking
and splitting around the outside.
Ideally wood should be seasoned
outdoors for between 18 to 24 months
– the harder the wood then the longer
the seasoning. It should be stacked off
the ground with plenty of space
between the logs to allow air
movement and with the top covered
to keep rain and snow out. Seasoned
wood will give you approximately 50%
more heat output than the equivalent
unseasoned log.
Most types of hardwood, for instance
Ash (generally regarded as the best),
Birch, Beech, Oak and Elm can be used.
However, avoid woods with a high
resin content. As a rule of thumb, the
heavier the wood, then the greater the
heat output and the longer burn time
– the time between refills. All of this is
providing it is fully seasoned wood.
For more information about wood fuel
visit the DEFRA funded National Energy
Foundation website Logpile at
www.nef.org.uk/logpile.
PROHIBITED FUELS
Never use your stove like an
incinerator. Burning prohibited ‘fuels’
in a Smoke Control Area is illegal.
Burning the following ‘illegal’ materials
could also damage your stove and flue
system, rendering the product
warranties on the stove and flue system
components void.
• Petroleum Coke Never burn
petroleum coke as this burns at a very
high temperature and its continued use
will almost certainly cause irreparable
damage to components such as the
grate, baffle plate and fire bars.
• Bituminous House Coal is not
recommended because it produces
excessive soot deposits, which is not
good for the environment, and thus
considerably increases the need for
cleaning the stove and flue system.
• Household Rubbish Printed matter
(excluding very small amounts of
newspaper for starting the fire),
plastic, rubber, lacquered or
impregnated wood, plywood,
chipboard and household rubbish, such
as milk cartons, should also be avoided.
During combustion some of these
materials may develop substances
which could be hazardous to your
health and be harmful to the
environment.
• Flammable Liquids Never use
methylated spirits, petrol or other highly
inflammable liquids for lighting the fire
as these could cause an explosion in the
confined spaces of the fire chamber.
10 11

IMPORTANT: FIRST FIRES
Use smaller and shorter ‘gentle’ fires
the first five or six times that you fire up
the stove, making these progressively
bigger, as this will avoid any potential
thermal shock and allow the cast iron
components to ‘acclimatise’ with each
other. Allow the stove to fully cool
down these between fires.
When first using the stove it is normal
to experience paint fumes or see light
smoke rising from some of the stove’s
painted surfaces. During this stage
ensure that the room has additional
ventilation by opening doors and
windows to minimise any adverse
effects. The hotter you burn the stove
the more intense these fumes will be,
which is one of the reasons that we
advise that you use smaller fires to start
with. Every time the stove reaches a
new higher temperature it may still be
possible to smell these fumes or see
some gentle smoke until the paint work
is fully cured.
If smoke and fumes persist do not use
the stove and immediately consult your
installer, as this may indicate that there
could be a possible problem with the
installation.
UNDERSTANDING HOW
DIFFERENT FUELS BURN
Wood and solid fuels (multi fuels) burn
in different ways and you will need to
understand these differences if you are
a newcomer to wood burners and you
want to get the best out of operating
your stove.
Basically solid fuels need a flow of
combustion air through the bottom
grate whereas wood does not require
this as its combustion air can be taken
from above the grate. Wood always
burns best on a bed of its own embers
and shouldn’t need to be riddled.
Your new stove can burn very well, or
very poorly, depending on how you
light the fire, how you refuel the fire,
and, of course, the type and quality of
the fuel that you are burning. A flue
temperature gauge and log moisture
meter are both cost-effective
investments if you want to maximise
the efficiency of your stove and fuel.
Wear protective gloves when loading a
burning stove and place logs precisely
where you want them in the
firechamber by using heat-resistant
tongs. Always open the stove door
gently to avoid unnecessary air turbu-
lence which could cause fly ash or small
lighted embers to be drawn from the
fire chamber and beyond the protective
hearth. Never operate the stove without
the fire fence (or log guard) in position.
The stove is not designed to be
operated with the door open
continuously – this will reduce its
operating efficiency and it will consume
more fuel and produce less heat.
BURNING WOOD LOGS
As previously stated wood burns best
on a bed of its own embers which also
forms a barrier that reflects heat and
protects the fire grate from being
damaged. You can therefore leave a
bed of ash in place to create a layer of
approximately 25mm (1”), only
occasionally removing the surplus ash.
The end grain of the wood produces
more of the remaining moisture and
gases so whenever possible point the
log ends away from the glass to help
keep the glass clean.
Fuel Load Ideally the logs should be
approximately 225 – 250mm (9” – 10”)
long and a typical fuel load should
weigh 1.0 – 1.5kg (2.2lb – 3.3lb).
To get the best out of your stove,
ideally you will need three different
thicknesses of wood log as you build
the fire through each lighting phase:
1 Kindling This is generally finely
chopped wood, approximately 5 to
10mm thick (1/4” to 1/2”) from your
supply of logs. Alternatively use dried
twigs or small branches which have also
been fully seasoned
2 Lighting Logs These are slightly
bigger diameter logs, approximately 25
to 50mm (1” to 2”)
3 Refuelling Logs These should be
approximately 75 to 100mm thick (3”
to 4”). Bigger logs should be split down
to this size
Lighting a Wood Fire
The main difference between smoke
and flame is temperature, so when
lighting a fire you need to get the
temperature in the fire chamber as high
as possible as quickly as possible. This
is also critical in creating a good ‘draw’
within the flue system, especially when
it is particularly cold outside.
When flue gas temperatures are below
120°C, creosote tars form within the
gases and the fire will be smoky and
burn with a dull orange flame. Burning
the stove like this for a sustained period
will create unnecessary smoke and not
be good for the chimney or flue system.
1 The Lighting Phase
For best results:
Primary Air – fully open
Secondary Air – fully open
Shaker Grate – open
Door – slightly ajar (optional)
Avoid trying to light the fire with
excessive amounts of paper as this
has a very high ash content which can
‘smother’ the ash bed. If you have good
dry kindling or sticks then paper should
not be needed at all.
The size of the logs used at each stage
is also important. If the kindling wood is
too large this will not light well and will
be slow to get started. Two handfuls of
smaller pieces of kindling (equivalent
to the weight of typical log) layered in
a criss-cross or ‘wig-wam’ and a small
firelighter will get the fire well estab-
lished and up to operating quickly.
If you feel you have a weak chimney
draught, then keeping the stove door
slightly ajar for the first 10 – 15
minutes will assist, after which it should
be closed. This will also help prevent the
build-up of condensation on the door
12 13

glass until the glass warms up,
especially if you have not used the stove
for a few days.
During the lighting phase the Primary
and Secondary air settings on the stove
should be fully open. The shaker grate
should also be set in the open position
by adjusting the external riddler control.
2 The First Refuel Phase
For best results:
After 10 minutes
Primary Air – close completely
Secondary Air – fully open
Shaker Grate – closed
Door – closed
Once the embers are starting to glow
and the flames start to calm down the
first refuelling can take place. For this
stage use slightly larger pieces of wood
than the lighting wood – but smaller
than the main refuelling wood in the
next phase. The reason for this is that
the embers from the kindling wood are
small and will not hold a high
temperature for too long.
If unnecessarily large pieces of wood
are placed on the embers at this stage
and do not ignite well there is a risk
that the firebox will cool down and the
wood start to smoke. When the first
refuelling wood is burning well (say,
after about 10 minutes from the start)
the Primary air can be completely shut
off and the shaker grate closed for
increased efficiency.
3 The Main Firing Phase
For best results:
After 17 or 18 minutes –
Secondary Air – adjust to suit
Primary Air – remains closed
Shaker Grate – remains closed
Door – remains closed
Once the embers of the first refuel
phase are glowing then these can be
evenly spread with a poker or
companion tool and the main
refuelling wood can be quickly set.
Wood burns best if the flames have
other wood to ‘play off’. For example a
single dense piece of wood or log will
not burn as well as 2 or 3 smaller logs
of equivalent mass. The more contact
the wood has with each other piece,
the hotter the embers will be. 3 or 4
logs tightly packed to each other will
burn longer but at a lower temperature
than loosely criss-crossed logs.
Approximately 1.0 to 1.5kg of wood
logs can be added at this stage. Be
careful not to add too many logs as
they may ‘smother’ the fire.
Try to avoid setting the ends of the logs
pointing towards the glass as this can
cause staining which the Airwash may
find difficult to remove.
Only reduce the Secondary air control
when the wood has ‘carbonised’ and
the fire is burning at a high
temperature. This is when the ash on
the burning wood looks light grey and
virtually covers all of the wood. A flue
temperature gauge will be invaluable.
You will be able to tell when the stove
is at this stage by studying the colour of
the burning surfaces – the ‘lighter’ they
are the better the wood is burning.
If the log surface is predominately
black and / or the flames are a dull
orange then there is still some time to
go before the fire is operating at full
temperature.
Never leave the stove unattended after
refuelling until the flames are well
established on the new logs. Always
load onto a bed of hot embers.
Once the fire is established the flame
pattern can then be adjusted to your
requirements with the Secondary air
(Airwash) control.
Getting the balance right between a
gently burning stove and one that is
burning too slow, creating smoke and
causing the Airwash to fail and
consequently the glass to stain is very
much a matter of trial and error. If you
are burning well-seasoned wood then
a quick ‘blast’ of the stove operating at
‘full throttle’, with Secondary and
Primary air fully open, should quickly
burn off any deposits left from any
slower burning phase.
4 Refuelling
For best results: Just before you refuel –
Primary Air – fully open
Secondary Air – fully open
Shaker Grate – open (optional)
After loading and when new fuel is
burning well –
Primary Air – close completely
Secondary Air– adjust to suit
Shaker Grate – close
The recommended maximum fuel load: Photo
shows a typical loosely stacked fuel load of
approximately 1.5kg of fully seasoned wood logs
approx 250mm (9”) long by 75 – 100mm thick
The recommended maximum fuel load: Photo
shows a typical loosely stacked fuel load
Maximum fuel load: This should never be higher
than the lowest part of the semi circle cut-out
shape in the rear firebrick as shown. Ensure that
logs are secure behind the front fire fence so that
there is no possibility of them rolling out
Maximum height of wood fuel load
14 15

Regular, smaller loads are better
because they keep the firechamber at a
higher temperature, without over-firing
it. The higher operating temperature
helps prevent nuisance smoke and
sooty deposits.
Never overfill the fire chamber and also
avoid over-sized pieces of wood which
will ‘slow’ the fire down at the start but
then could lead to over-firing.
Before refuelling open the Primary and
Secondary air supply so that there is a
good strong fire so that the embers are
glowing red which will help the new
fuel to start burning quickly. This will
also ensure that there is no build-up of
harmful gas which could be released
into the room when the fire chamber
door is opened.
Rake the embers and spread them out
to make an even bed. You may need
to add some kindling to re-establish
the fire. Add the new wood as before
ensuring that the logs are not tightly
packed.
Newly refuelled wood always requires
some additional air so make sure the
Secondary air is back in the fully open
position after refuelling. Do not adjust
the Secondary air until the fire is
burning well and you can see bright
yellow vigorous flames.
Once the fire is established, usually after
about 5 minutes, close the Primary air
and adjust the flame pattern again to
your requirements with the
Secondary air (Airwash) control.
Operating in a Smoke Control Area
To meet your legal obligations when
operating this stove in a UK Smoke
Control Area it must be operated
correctly to minimise the amount of
smoke it produces.
• Burn only dry fully seasoned wood
with a moisture content of less than
20% (or approved smokeless solid fuels).
• This instruction book should be left
with the end-user.
SOME SIMPLE TIPS
1 Small regular loads when refuel-
ling will produce a more efficient and
cleaner burning performance.
2 Avoid burning large amounts of wood
with the Secondary air supply turned
down as this will reduce the
effectiveness of the Airwash system, as
well as produce excessive smoke and
create potential creosote build-up.
3 Burn on a high output for
approximately 30 minutes each day
to ‘burn off’ any potential soot and
creosote build-up – but be careful not
to over-fire the stove.
4 Never overload the stove – it will be
smoky and inefficient as well very slow
to establish a good burn and could
eventually possibly over-fire.
The maximum recommended fuel load
is approximately 1.5kg of wood logs.
5 Bright vibrant flames and a clean
firechamber indicates that your stove is
operating well.
REMOVING ASH
The Baby Gabriel® features an external
riddler and shaker grate to help with
ash removal.
Remember, you do not need to riddle
wood ash during firing, but possibly
only at the start when some Primary air
is needed to aid the initial combustion.
Using the tool provided, move the
external riddler backwards and forwards
to help clear the grate of ash, re-setting
it to open when burning mineral fuels
and closed for wood. Riddling allows
the ash to fall into the collection pan
below the fire bed. The ash pan should
never be allowed to over-fill as this will
limit the Primary air flow and cause
excessive heat build-up which could
eventually warp or burn out the grate.
Locate the operating tool in the slot at
the front of the ash pan to make a
handle and lift the pan from the stove.
For safety reasons ash should be
Use the forked end of the Baby Gabriel multi-
purpose tool to move the external riddler
backwards and forwards to clear ash from the
shaker grate as shown
Use the tool provided to adjust the Secondary air
/ Airwash control at the top of the stove
Use the tool provided to adjust the Primary air
control at the top of the stove
16 17

removed when the stove is cold. If this
is not always possible then extra care
should be taken and decorative and
combustible surfaces, such as laminate
floors or carpets, should be protected
against potential accidental spillage.
Even if the ash appears to be cold
protective gloves should be worn and
the refuse ash placed in a non-
combustible container.
Wood ash can be composted and
recycled in the garden.
INSTALLATION CHECK-LIST
This information is intended to outline
the general principles of installing your
stove. However, as each installation will
vary and must comply with local and
national building regulations, which
could be different from country to
country, it is unfortunately not possible
for these guidelines to be
comprehensive.
• Legal Requirements Please note
that, not only is it a legal requirement
to ensure that your stove installation
complies with local building regulations,
it is also a requirement of the Olymberyl
Warranty that the stove is installed by
a competent person such as a Hetas
or INFO registered installer who will be
fully aware of any local building and
safety regulations which apply to stove
installations in your location.
Stove Location Checklist
• The existing constructional hearth
(the main part of the hearth) is suitably
constructed and is of a thickness that
conforms to all local building
regulations.
• The back hearth (the part of the
hearth that the stove generally sits upon
and which is usually within the
fireplace recess or opening) is also
suitably constructed and conforms to all
local building regulations.
• The superimposed hearth (the thinner,
usually decorative surface, which sits on
the constructional part of the hearth) is
suitably constructed and conforms to all
local building regulations.
• The fireplace recess or opening is
suitably constructed and conforms to
all local building regulations and can
accommodate the stove along with
the safe minimum operating distances
required (see section on page XX).
• Any adjacent walls, next to which a
free-standing stove is installed, are of
a suitable thickness and are of non-
combustible material and conform to
all local building regulations.
• The air supply is sufficient for full
combustion of the stove’s fuel and
the health and safety of the room’s
occupants. Any extractor fans inside
the room should be removed or
permanently disabled. Note that in the
UK stoves above 5kW output require a
non-closable dedicated air supply within
the room which conforms to local
building regulations. The HF217-SE
Baby Gabriel® has been officially rated
at 4.6kW output when burning wood.
• The chimney is of sufficient height,
is suitably constructed and is in good
condition and conforms to all local
building regulations regarding stove
installation. The minimum flue height
required for the Baby Gabriel® is
4.5 metres from the hearth to the
chimney terminal.
• The chimney has been swept and
tested prior to installation.
• The proximity of all combustible
materials to the intended stove
installation conforms to the minimum
requirements outlined within this
handbook (page 5) as well as local
building regulations, whichever is the
greater. A combustible material is
anything which can burn once it gets
hot enough and includes skirting
boards, wooden fire surrounds,
wallpaper, fabrics and floor coverings.
Remember these materials could be
concealed behind other materials which
on the surface may appear to be non-
combustible, for example, stud
partitioned walls.
The forked end of the multi-purpose tool is
inserted underneath the ash pan handle grip
as shown above to create the ash pan handle.
Always protect floor coverings from potential
fly-ash
18 19

INSTALLATION:
GENERAL GUIDELINES
Please refer specifically to current
building regulations which apply to your
country or region (see page 9). Adopt
whichever provides the highest / safest
margin.
The Hearth The hearth should be
made of solid non-combustible
material, set on a firm and level base
and should be at least 125mm (5”)
thick. This can include the thickness of
any non-combustible floor under the
hearth or non-combustible decorative
surface. It must be capable of
supporting the weight of the stove
(when loaded) along with any attached
flue pipes which bear down on the
stove. This hearth must conform to
local building regulations which may
vary from country to country.
In England and Wales there is a
minimum requirement for the hearth
to project 500mm (20”) in front of any
brick or stone recess and 150mm (6”)
at each side of the recess. For a
free-standing stove the minimum
hearth size should be 840mm by
840mm (2’10” by 2’10” approx) and
should provide the minimum clearances
for the stove which are outlined in this
handbook. The hearth should extend
by a minimum of 225mm (9”) from
the front of the stove (which includes
the edge of the ash lip). As a general
rule it is best to extend the hearth to at
least 75mm (3”) beyond the furthest
out-swing of the stove door to avoid
any potential live ash held on the door
falling on to combustible flooring or
floor coverings. If the top of the hearth
and any combustible floor coverings are
level with each other then a retaining
fender should be fitted to warn
occupants of the hearth area.
Alternatively, a 28mm (1.1”) change in
level provided by a decorative non-
combustible material such as stone,
marble, granite, ceramic tiles etc could
be used.
Please note that some materials, such
as marble, may not be suitable when
used as a single sheet and will need to
be pieced together to allow for
expansion from the heat of the stove.
Your stove dealer or installer should be
able to advise you about this.
The ‘Fireplace’ The stove can be sited
within a brick or stone fireplace recess
or used free-standing. The fireplace side
and rear walls should be at least 75mm
thick and made of non-combustible
brick or stone. In a fireplace setting you
should allow a minimum distance of
100mm (4”) from the back of the stove
and 150mm (6”) at either side with at
least 300mm (12”) from the top of the
stove. Ideally, the overall height of the
fireplace aperture should be at least
1200mm (4’) high.
Providing adequate air space around
the stove will allow the stove to
radiate heat and circulate warm air
around the room. It will also prevent
structural damage to the walls and po-
tentially damaging over-heating of the
stove. If it is not possible to
maintain these spaces they could be
reduced to 100mm (4”) at the sides but
only if this can be compensated with
twice the equivalent air space at the
top of the stove and the non-
combustible wall parts are at least
200mm (8”) thick.
Walls adjacent to free-standing stoves
should be made of non-combustible
material and be a minimum of 200mm
(8”) thick.
Flue Draught The minimum flue
draught requirement for the Olymberyl
Baby Gabriel® model HF217-SE is XX.
The Chimney, Flue and Flexible
Liners Other appliances should not
share or be connected to the same flue
system or chimney.
If you are using an existing chimney
and it has been checked for condition
and suitability (see below), in the
interests of safety you must ensure that
it is swept before the stove is installed,
even if it has never been used or you
intend to use a flexible liner. To find a
local registered sweep visit The National
Association of Chimney Sweeps at
www.chimneyworks.co.uk or the
Guild of Master Chimney Sweeps at
www.guildofmasterchimneysweeps.
co.uk.
The recommended minimum height
for the chimney / flue system from the
top of the hearth base to the top of the
chimney terminal is 4.5m (15’). If this is
not possible then a ‘spinner’ type cowl,
to compensate for the potential limited
draught, should always be specified and
specialist advice sought on the correct
type.
The HF217-SE Baby Gabriel® features
optional top or rear 125mm (5”)
diameter flue outlets and as a
DEFRA Approved Smoke Exempt stove
F
G
I
H
H
A
A
C
D
B
STOVE
EE
HEARTH
DOOR
COMBUSTIBLE FLOORING
H
F
E
I
H
B
D
C
A
G
Minimum Air Space: Sides 150mm (6”)
Minimum Air Space: Back 100mm (4”)
or at least 50mm (2”) beyond door swing
Minimum hearth from stove front: 225mm (9”)
Fireplace walls minimum: 75 mm (3”) thick
Minimum Height from lid to lintel: 300mm (12”)
Ideal aperture height: 1200mm (48”)
Minimum to combustibles: 500mm (20”)
Minimum hearth depth: 28mm (approx 1”)
20 21

this does not require the installation
specification to provide for an
increasing adaptor to take the flue pipe
and liner to 150mm (6”) when burning
wood.
Under no circumstances should the
stove’s 125mm diameter flue be
reduced in any part of the flue system
as this could cause a build-up of
dangerous carbon monoxide gas.
A free-standing stove will generally
require the flue to exit the room either
through the ceiling, roof or wall.
Therefore such installations require
a specialist knowledge of building
regulations and approved flue
components which, unfortunately, is
beyond the scope of these guidelines.
In this instance always consult an
approved installer who has experience
of this type of installation.
When your new Olymberyl stove is
installed it should be possible to sweep
the chimney through the stove by
simply removing the baffle plate.
However, the installer must also provide
an alternative means, such as a soot
door with adequate air-tight seal, in the
chimney wall to be able to clean the
whole of the chimney / flue system. In
any event we would recommend that,
where possible, the connecting flue
pipe features at least one easily
accessible inspection hatch near the top
of the stove and that any bends which
have been used also have inspection
hatches, irrespective of any other
hatches in the system.
Since stoves create flue gases at a much
greater temperature than those
produced by an open fire or gas
appliance it does not necessarily follow
that your chimney will function
adequately (or safely) when your new
stove is installed. The best way to
ensure that you have a fully functioning
flue system is to fit an approved flexible
multi fuel flue liner.
Current building Regulations in England
and Wales do not yet automatically
require an existing chimney to be lined
when a new stove is fitted. However,
Olymberyl strongly recommend fitting a
liner for the following reasons:
• A flue liner is a major ‘quantifiable’
component in a total and fully
functioning flue system. As such it will
provide a consistent flue draught from
the stove through to the chimney
terminal and when back-filled with
vermiculite will deliver much needed
insulation to keep flue gases as hot as
possible which will help minimise the
amount os smoke produced. It will
also improve the stove’s operation with
greater control over the fuel burn rate
and improved environmental and fuel
efficiency.
• Your existing chimney could leak
smoke, fumes and potentially
dangerous ‘invisible’ carbon monoxide
into other parts of the building.
• Condensation or creosote ‘tar’, often
associated with burning wood, could
eventually seep through the walls,
particularly if they are made of old or
porous brick and / or are jointed with
lime mortar, eventually causing
unsightly stains on decorative coverings.
• Stoves work best with the correct
draught. Pre-1965 chimneys which have
been built for open fires have larger
(and irregular shaped) voids than those
best suited for a modern stove and
thus could reduce the effectiveness of
the flue draught by making the flue
too cold and difficult to warm. This is a
particular problem if the chimney breast
is on an outside wall and / or is subject
to a strong prevailing wind.
• The interior surfaces of older flues
could be eroded and also have rough
surfaces which could cause resistance
to the flow of gases and consequently
result in poor up-draught.
• Unfortunately many houses built
since 1965 with clay or concrete
chimney liners suffer from these being
poorly installed, either through being
fitted the wrong way up or not
receiving an appropriate application
of mortar to make a complete seal on
each joint. Even though not particularly
old, this could still potentially cause
leaking smoke and fumes or
condensation stains
Your approved installer will be able to
advise you on the suitability of your
chimney after undertaking a thorough
inspection and smoke test. Any solid
fuel flexible liner which is specified
should be double skinned stainless
steel, either 904L or 316Ti grade and be
CE marked and / or Hetas Approved.
The British Flue and Chimney
Manufacturers Association website,
accessed through www.feta.co.uk/
bfcma, produces an authoritative and
informative download Yellow Guide to
solid fuel flues and chimneys.
Chimney Terminal The existing
chimney pot or terminal must be
suitable for stove installation and should
not restrict the smoke and fumes from
the stove. It must provide at least the
same outlet area as the flue pipe. It may
be that your existing chimney terminal
has been replaced with a ventilating
terminal if the fireplace has been closed
off at some point and this will need
replacing.
Your installer will be able to advise you
on the correct specification of any new
cowl or terminal. Cowls have the
additional advantage of limiting rain
entering the flue system which could
cause the inside of the stove to rust
when it is not being used, particularly
during the long periods outside the
heating season.
22 23

COMMISSIONING
1 Confirm that all internal parts of the
stove are correctly fitted, including the
baffle plate
2 Confirm that the door closes correctly
and that the latch mechanism and door
seals work to make an air-tight seal
3 Warm the chimney and carry out a
final smoke draw test
4 Light the stove with a gentle fire,
allowing the stove to increase to an
operational temperature level and check
that no combustion products are enter-
ing the room
5 Ensure that the Primary and Second-
ary air controls are fully operational
6 Explain the safe operation of the
stove to the user and the importance of
using the correct fuel types
7 Explain the requirements of using an
approved fireguard whenever children,
the elderly or the infirm are likely to be
in the vicinity of the stove
8 Make sure that the customer receives
this copy of the Installation Instructions
& Operation Guide
9 Complete the relevant parts of the Ol-
ymberyl Warranty Card with your Hetas
/ INFO or competent persons registra-
tion number and contact details
TROUBLE-SHOOTING
Chimney Fire
If your stove has been installed
correctly and you have also operated it
correctly and regularly carried out the
recommended routine checks on page
XX then it is unlikely that you will ever
experience a chimney fire, which can be
highly dangerous.
Chimney fires can be detected by an
unusual roaring sound and / or unusual
vibrations coming from the chimney
breast, the stove itself or connecting
flue pipe. The sound is not to be
confused with the gentle ‘rushing’
sound you may normally hear when a
stove has a well performing draught.
You may also see sparks or flames
exiting from the chimney terminal.
• Prevention
If you suspect a chimney fire then
immediately close the Primary and
Secondary air controls, evacuate the
building and call the Fire Brigade. Never
open the stove door as this will make
the chimney fire worse by providing
additional combustion air. Do not
re-enter the building until you have
been advised by the Fire Brigade that
it is safe.
Do not re-light the stove until the flue
system has been thoroughly inspected
by an approved installer or chimney
sweep and any necessary repairs have
been carried out.
• Causes: Inadequate cleaning
Chimney fires occur when soot and
creosote have built up to such a level
that they ignite. It is important
therefore that your flue system,
chimney closure (registration) plate
and chimney has as many cleaning
access points as practicable to enable
comprehensive removal of soot,
creosote and other debris from every
point in the system. This will also
minimise the amount of time it takes
for a qualified sweep to clean the
system making the system safer and
its cleaning more cost-effective in the
long run.
• Causes: Continuous low burning
To discourage the potential for such
soot and creosote build-ups, long
periods of consistent slow or overnight
burning should be avoided or that these
should at least be compensated for by
regular burning on full output for short
periods (eg 30 minutes per day) to help
burn off any likely deposits before they
become problematic.
A good flue temperature thermostat
will indicate the flue gas temperature
which promotes the conditions to
create creosote deposits (around less
than 120Cº) and therefore the
operating temperature to be avoided
and is another good reason why we
strongly recommend the small
investment in this simple to use device.
• Causes: Poor fuel choice As
previously mentioned unseasoned or
damp wood or fuel should always be
avoided as these produce excessive soot
and creosote.
Stove, Flue or Other Components
Glowing Red
• Prevention
The Primary and Secondary air controls
should be immediately closed to let the
fire die down to an acceptable level
and to reduce the heat output which
will in turn eliminate the glow from the
over-heated components. Over-firing
is dangerous and could permanently
damage or warp your stove and its
components. The effects of over-firing
are fairly obvious to anyone in the
stove industry and will invalidate your
Olymberyl Warranty. Check the stove
and the flue system for signs of damage
before you re-use the stove.
• Causes: Over-Firing This is caused
by using the stove at a higher output
than recommended for prolonged
periods of time and / or over-filling the
firebox with fuel. The excessive heat in
the flue system produced by over-firing
could potentially also lead to a chimney
fire (see above).
Smoke and fumes escaping
into the room
When properly installed and
operated your stove should not
normally emit fumes or smoke into
the room. When first using the stove
it is normal to experience paint fumes
or see light smoke rising from some
of the stove’s painted surfaces, but
these should eventually pass as the
paint cures. Occasional minor smoke
escape may also occur during refuelling
process. However, persistent smoke or
fumes could be dangerous and in this
24 25

situation you should take immediate
avoiding action.
• Prevention
Open doors and windows to ventilate
the room and let the fire go out to
allow the stove to cool. Never pour
water onto the fire as this could cause
cast iron components to break
Most importantly, never re-light the
stove until the problem has been
identified and solved. If in doubt, in the
first instance always seek the expert
advice of your approved installer, or
authorised Olymberyl dealer.
There are a number of factors, either
alone or combined, which could cause
such problems:
• Causes: A blockage When safe to
do so, examine the flue-way above the
baffle plate as well as the flue pipe and
chimney system via the appropriate
inspection hatches and clear any soot
blockages. Excessive deposits could also
indicate that the chimney or flue itself
also needs cleaning.
• Causes: Inadequate supply
of combustion air Check that any
permanent air vent fitted to supply the
extra combustion air required for the
stove has not been accidentally blocked.
Remember there should never be an ex-
tractor fan in the same room as a stove,
even in a large open plan area. A simple
way of checking whether or not the
stove is receiving enough combustion
air is to open a window in the same
room as the stove whilst the stove is
operating. If this improves the problem
then this would certainly indicate that
the stove is being starved of
combustion air and the advice of the
original installer should be sought.
• Causes: Extreme weather
conditions High winds or freezing
temperatures can also temporarily
effect the performance of the chimney
draught and consequently its
effectiveness in removing smoke and
fumes from the stove’s fire chamber. In
the case of freezing temperatures it is
important to build a larger pre-fire than
normal to quickly provide the additional
heat needed to warm the flue system
and to counteract the much lower
temperatures at the exit point of the
chimney. Please see the section on
lighting your stove on page XX.
• Causes: High winds If the problem
is associated with high winds and it
becomes a regular occurrence, then
you will need to fit a specialist chimney
cowl. These are designed to provide
a stable draught and prevent specific
types of problems. Specifying the right
cowl should always be left to an
approved installer.
• Causes: Flue Exit Check, especially
at the beginning of the heating season,
that summer tree growth has not
interfered with the free passage of
smoke and flue gases from the
chimney top.
Overheating or excessive
fuel consumption
This can be caused by a number of
factors.
• Causes: Excessive Chimney
Draught This limits the effectiveness
of the air controls so that the fire burns
with very strong bright yellow flames
and with very little difference when
the air controls are operated. In such
circumstances an adjustable draught
stabiliser in the flue pipe may need to
be fitted to ensure that the stove will
always operate under a stable draught
to allow the stove’s controls to
function correctly. In the interests of
safety, because draught stabilisers limit
the exit of flue gases from the stove,
they should only ever be specified,
fitted and subsequently tested by an
approved installer.
• Causes: Fuel The fuel itself may
be of poor quality. For example pine
and other soft woods will burn much
quicker than a good hard wood log,
such as Oak. Please read the section
on fuels on page XX.
• Causes: Faulty Door Seals The rope
seals around the fire chamber door
could have become worn and may not
create the air-tight seal needed for the
Primary and Secondary air controls to
function correctly. When the stove is
cold, you can easily check this seal by
placing strips of paper at various points
between the door and chamber and
checking that when the door is closed
it grips this paper. Any paper which
can be removed easily would indicate a
weakness of the door seal in that
particular spot, in which case a
complete new rope seal should be
fitted. See the section on fitting a rope
seal, page XX.
Stove not providing enough heat
This problem is also usually indicated
by dull orange lifeless flames and wood
that remains black when burning
instead of light grey. A flue temperature
gauge will provide you with the best
indication of whether or not your stove
is operating effectively.
• Causes: Poor fuel Poor heat output
is more than likely caused by poor fuel,
such as ‘green’ or unseasoned wood.
We cannot over-estimate how critical
it is to use fully seasoned dry wood.
The easiest way to check whether your
wood is fully seasoned is to invest in a
moisture meter specifically designed for
testing wood fuel. These are relatively
inexpensive and can be purchased from
your stove dealer. When you bear in
mind that seasoned wood with a
moisture content of less than 20% will
give you approximately 50% more heat
than unseasoned wood, a moisture
meter is modest investment which will
more than pay for itself.
Unseasoned wood introduces moisture
into the fire chamber, reducing the
stove’s operating temperature and thus
the effectiveness of the air wash
system. In addition it will cause
problems of increased soot and harmful
creosote deposits within the flue
system.
Softwoods such as Pine produce
significantly less heat output than
hardwoods.
• Causes: Air controls Ensure that
you fully understand the difference that
using the Primary and Secondary air
controls make to the performance of
26 27

the stove and the best way to burn your
type of fuel – see page XX.
• Causes: Inadequate Combustion
Air A stove starved of combustion air,
even when the Primary and Secondary
air controls are in the fully open
position, will provide limited heat
output. Check that any permanent
air vent fitted to supply the extra
combustion air required for the stove
has not been accidentally blocked.
Remember there should never be an
extractor fan in the same room as a
stove, even in a large open plan area.
A simple way of confirming whether
or not the stove is receiving enough
combustion air is to open a window
in the same room as the stove. If this
improves the problem then this would
certainly indicate that the stove is
being starved of combustion air and the
advice of the original installer should be
sought.
• Causes: Blockages When safe to
do so, examine the flue-way above the
baffle plate as well as the flue pipe and
chimney system via the appropriate
inspection hatches and clear any soot
blockages. Excessive deposits could also
indicate that the chimney or flue itself
also needs cleaning.
Glass staining or blackening
Glass can be cleaned easily if it is
undertaken regularly and the deposits
are not allowed to build up. A
proprietary stove glass spray or gel is
strongly recommended – see page XX.
• Causes: Air Controls Ensure that
you fully understand how the Airwash
system works and that you have
determined, through some trial and
air, the correct balance between
Primary and Secondary air that your
stove needs. Generally, try to use more
Secondary air as this air flows down
and over the glass to help burn and
wash away any particulates that have
accumulated there – see page XX.
• Causes: Poor fuel Burning damp or
unseasoned wood will cause the glass
to stain as the moisture from the fuel
considerably reduces the fire chamber
temperature reducing the effectiveness
of the Airwash system. ‘Green’ wood
will also encourage sticky deposits on
the glass which will prove difficult for
the impaired Airwash system to remove.
• Causes: Continuous low burning
Continuously burning your stove with a
very low flame, such as slow overnight
burning will also cause this problem
because the Airwash does not get hot
enough and some blackening of the
glass should be considered a ‘trade-off’.
In this instance, if you’re sure that the
fuel is seasoned and dry, then burning
the stove at very high temperature for
a short period after a long slow burn
will usually burn off any sooty deposits.
Glass can be cleaned easily if it is under-
taken regularly and the deposits are not
allowed to build up. A proprietary stove
glass spray or gel is strongly recom-
mended – see page XX.
ROUTINE CHECKS
During routine checks if you notice
anything wrong with your stove then it
should be rectified immediately. Never
use a stove that you know is not fully
functioning – this includes flue compo-
nents.
• Check your flue system at least once a
month using one of the recommended
inspection hatches in the flue pipe.
After a few checks you will notice a
pattern of soot build-up to enable you
to determine the inspection and clean-
ing period best suited to your stove’s
operation.
• Check and clear the stove’s baf-
fle plate and flue way at least once a
month – see page XX.
• Regularly visually inspect any flue pipe
joints where fire cement has been used
and replace any missing or damaged ce-
ment seals using the appropriate heat-
resistant fire cement.
• Make sure the door maintains a good
tight fit and visually inspect the door
rope seals for fraying or other signs of
wear. Test the seal if you suspect that it
is no longer air-tight – see page XX.
• Check that the glass is not chipped
or cracked and that the glass sealing
tape is still in good condition. Replace if
necessary – see page XX.
STANDING DOWN
There will be some point in the year
when you will not need to use your
stove for a considerable time and taking
care to clean it thoroughly then will
save you much time later. This is also a
good time to get your chimney swept
too as this will prevent any soot build
up from falling inside the stove ‘caking’
and blocking the flue way.
• Remove and clean any deposits from
the top of the baffle plate and check
for wear
• Remove any debris and deposits from
the inside of the stove particularly at
the entrance to the flue way.
• Empty the ash pan and thoroughly
clean out the ash pan chamber
• Check all rope seals and replace dam-
aged ropes that do not provide a good
seal (see page XX)
• Check any fire cement bonds around
the flue joints, particularly where they
connect to the stove. Remove any loose
cement and re-seal
• Check the vermiculite firebricks and
replace any that are becoming very thin
or have crumbled to reveal the cast iron
sides of the stove
• Check the grate for signs of wear.
Excessive wear, such as grate bars or
log retaining bars which are bent or
warped, could be an indication of
over-firing or using inappropriate fuels
such as petroleum coke. Order genuine
replacement components from your
authorised Olymberyl dealer – see page
28 29

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
• Baffle Plate and Flue Way
During the heating season check the
flue way and baffle plate at least once
a month to start with and remove any
soot deposits. Should these be
excessive then have your chimney and
flue cleaned. At the same time review
your choice of fuel and the way that
you operate the stove.
Regular long periods of slow or over-
night
burning can create excessive soot
because the stove is not operating at
the temperature required to burn off
most of the sooty. Damp or unseasoned
wood will also have similar effect. To
find a local registered sweep visit
www.guildofmasterchimneysweeps.
co.uk or www.chimneyworks.co.uk.
• Chimney Cleaning The Baby
Gabriel® can be swept through the
stove by simply removing the baffle
plate – see above and page 7. Sweep
your chimney before installation and
then at the end of each heating season
when you stand down your stove.
Burning seasoned dry wood means that
you will probably need to sweep every
three months. The amount of soot
deposits removed each time is a good
indication of how often you should
sweep and as you begin to understand
your stove and the wood you burn
you can adjust the cleaning intervals
accordingly. If in doubt seek the advice
of a registered chimney sweep who has
experience of stoves.
• Firebricks Regularly inspect the
condition of the firebricks. Please note
that minor cracks are perfectly normal
due to the high temperatures created
inside the stove. If necessary small
cracks can be repaired using a propri-
etary heat resistant fire cement (your
stove dealer should be able to advise
you). Bricks only need replacing if they
have crumbled or part of the brick has
broken away revealing the stove body-
work. Firebricks are deemed as
‘consumable’ and are therefore not
covered under your Warranty.
To replace a firebrick, first remove the
baffle plate by lifting this up and
dropping it down to clear the baffle
plate retaining ledge at the back of the
stove. There are two loosely fitted
firebrick retaining ‘clips’, (see photo
right) on the right and left hand sides
at the top of the fire bricks, these can
easily be lifted out to release the
firebricks.
• Cleaning the Glass Using damp or
‘green’ unseasoned wood, filling with
small fuel loads or operating the stove
at low temperatures (slow overnight
burning) will reduce the effectiveness of
the Airwash system and cause the glass
to stain. Do not allow such staining to
build up as it will become more difficult
to remove after each firing. When used
regularly, a proprietary scratch-resistant
stove glass cleaning gel or spray, which
can be supplied by your stove dealer,
removed with a soft cloth, should be
sufficient to keep the glass in pristine
condition. Make sure the glass is cold
before you apply such cleaners, as
applying a cold solution to hot glass
could create a thermal shock within the
glass causing the glass to crack. Also
make sure that all traces of the cleaning
fluid have been removed and the glass
is thoroughly dry as any residue can be
‘baked’ on causing unsightly smearing.
Read the section on fuels on page 13.
• Replacing Glass Never use your stove
if it has cracked or missing glass. Your
Olymberyl dealer can quickly supply
you with a new piece of heat resistant
glass should you ever need it – just let
them know the stove name and model
number. Only use heat-resistant glass as
this is made to withstand temperatures
of up to 800ºC.
Remove the screws and glass clamp
washers from each corner and place
them in a safe place. Always use the
correct sized Phillips crosshead
screwdriver and use releasing oil if the
screws prove difficult to remove. Be
careful not to dislodge the ribbon seal.
If this is damaged or worn replace it
completely. Loose ribbon can be held in
place with rope seal glue available from
your dealer. Lubricate the screws and
holes and reverse the process, being
careful not to over-tighten the screws
and clamps in case you break the glass.
• Paint Finish Your stove has been
finished with heat-resistant paint
(except for enamelled models) and is
very easy to maintain. Regularly remove
ash and dust from surfaces with a soft
cloth or brush. To maintain the
original paint finish you can use
traditional ‘stove black’ polish which
your Olymberyl dealer can supply. Make
sure the stove is cold and use protective
gloves as this type of polish can cause
deep staining to the skin and
fingernails.
Repair worn or scratched surfaces with
a proprietary heat-resistant spray paint
made specially for stoves, also
available from your stove dealer. Never
use an aerosol spray on, or near, the
stove when it is burning or it is hot.
• Door Rope Seals It is important that
you maintain a tight door seal as this
prevents unwanted air leaking into the
fire chamber and helps make the
Primary and Secondary air more
effective in controlling the fire.
When the stove is cold, to check the
door stove seal, place strips of paper
between the door and ‘door frame’
and shut the door. If you have to pull
hard to remove these or they tear, then
you have an effective door seal. If these
can be easily removed or if they slide
around you will need to replace the
door seal. Your new Olymberyl stove is
supplied with a spare rope seal for the
door. To replace, carefully remove the
old seal and completely clean the seal
channel of debris and old glue. Use
liberal amounts of proprietary heat
resistant fire rope glue to hold the rope
in position and glue both ends to
ensure a well-sealed joint.
30 32
Baffle Plate Retaing Lugs
Baffle Plate

OLYMBERYL WARRANTY
Your new stove has been CE tested in
the UK to ensure that it meets strict
constructional, performance and safety
standards. It is not the responsibility of
Olymberyl to ensure that the appliance
is installed and operating correctly at
the time of the installation.
Olymberyl offers the original retail
purchaser a limited 5 year warranty.
Claims under this warranty must be
reported in the first instance to the
dealer you purchased the stove from.
All claims must follow this procedure.
Your stove is guaranteed against defects
subject to the following conditions.
1 The stove must have been installed by
an appropriately qualified installer and
upon completion of the installation a
certificate of compliance to local
building regulations issued.
2 The sales receipt or invoice must be
kept as proof of purchase.
3 The serial number of the stove must
not be damaged or missing.
4 You must not have used the stove to
burn any of the prohibited fuels listed.
5 The stove must have been
continuously kept in a serviceable
condition and you must not have
allowed the stove to corrode.
6 You must not have modified the
construction of the stove in any way.
7 The stove must not have been used
for commercial purposes (eg rented or
holiday accommodation, public bar,
where the stove’s operation could be
subject to abuse).
Olymberyl guarantee that your product
will be free from defective parts,
materials and workmanship at the time
of purchase by the original consumer
for a period of 1 year for components
(parts and labour), excluding
consumable parts and 5 years for the
bodywork casing and door (parts and
1 year labour).
The warranty does not cover parts
deemed to be consumables. These
include paint, firebricks, vermiculite
panels, smoke deflection plates (baffle
plates), gaskets, rope seals and glass.
Olymberyl will repair or replace at its
option any stove or stove part thereof
found to be defective under these
terms.
Limits of Warranty
This warranty is not transferable and
applies to the original retail purchaser
only. It does not cover the failure of the
appliance due to accidental damage,
misuse or abuse, modification, illegal
installation, repairs (other than those by
the authorised dealer) or failure to
maintain the stove in a serviceable
condition.
Under no circumstances shall Olymberyl
be liable for any incidental or
consequential damage claims of any
nature whatsoever arising from the
non-conformance of the stove under
the terms of the manufacturer’s
warranty. These include loss of profit,
commercial losses, transport costs and
damage during transport, costs in
connection with any dismantling and
reassembling of the stove and its
installation components
SPARE PARTS
In the interests of safety, only ever use
genuine Olymberyl replacement
components. Once you have
identified the component you need
(visit the hi-flame website for a
comprehensive list of spares) this will be
readily available from your authorised
Olymberyl dealer in the first instance,
or from the following authorised
distributors:
UK Mainland and IOM
www.hi-flame.com
Northern Ireland
www.timberandtile.com
Republic of Ireland
www.thestoveyard.com
32 33

ANNUAL SERVICE
In the interests of safety it is important
that your Olymberyl® stove is serviced
on an annual basis in accordance with
the instructions outlined below. This
should be carried out by a suitably
qualified person such as your original
approved installer, a Hetas or INFO
registered installer or your authorised
Olymberyl dealer.
When the stove is cold strip, clean and
inspect it.
Internal Components Remove and
inspect the following:
• Baffle Plate
• Side Firebricks
• Grate Assembly
• Ash Pan
Use a wire brush to clean the baffle
plate and grate assembly. Use a soft
brush on the firebricks and handle these
with care as they become fragile with
continuous use. Wire brush the inside of
the stove and remove all ash and debris
from inside the stove and the ash pan
chamber.
Check all parts for wear or damage and
replace as necessary. Some surface wear
is normal on firebricks and these only
need replacing when they are very thin
or have crumbled to reveal the stove
bodywork.
Re-fit all the internal parts.
Stove Glass Check the glass for chips
or cracks and the glass seal condition
and replace if necessary. Thoroughly
clean the stove glass on both sides.
Door Seal Check that this continues
to make an air-tight seal and replace
if necessary. Ensure that the new rope
joint is also in the middle at the base of
the rope seal channel.
External Bodywork All external
surfaces should be dusted with a soft
cloth or light brush.
• Examine all paint work for signs of
wear and re-paint these areas using an
appropriate heat-resistant black aerosol
paint
• When dry, apply traditional stove black
polish to all painted surfaces
• Lightly oil the hinges and locking
mechanism
Air Controls When standing down at
the end of the heating season these
should be left on the open position to
allow some movement of air which will
help avoid condensation and moisture
building up inside the stove and flue
system. These can be closed up to 50%
if it gets too draughty.
Flue Pipe Connections Check all flue
collar and pipe connections, where
applicable, for any crumbling or missing
fire cement seals. Remove any failed
seals and re-seal using the appropriate
heat-resistant fire cement.
Important In the interests of safety use
only genuine Olymberyl® replacement
parts which are readily available from
your authorised dealer.
34 35
FIRST SERVICE
Work carried out:
SECOND SERVICE
Work carried out:
THIRD SERVICE
Work carried out:
FOURTH SERVICE
Work carried out:
FIFTH SERVICE
Work carried out:
Date
Next Service Due
Signed Print
Dealer’s Stamp or HETAS Registration Number
Date
Next Service Due
Signed Print
Dealer’s Stamp or HETAS Registration Number
Date
Next Service Due
Signed Print
Dealer’s Stamp or HETAS Registration Number
Date
Next Service Due
Signed Print
Dealer’s Stamp or HETAS Registration Number
Date
Next Service Due
Signed Print
Dealer’s Stamp or HETAS Registration Number