Pentair 400, 600, 800, 1000, 230 Instructions for use

Part #471949 Revision #A
© 2001 HydroTemp Manufacturing Co., Inc.
Note: Specifications may change without notice.
Owners Operational Information Only
Technicians See Separate Installation Manual
OWNERS OPERATION MANUAL
Models:
MiniMax Plus HP 400 (XLS400)
MiniMax Plus HP 600 (XLS600)
MiniMax Plus HP 800 (XLS800)
MiniMax Plus HP 1000 (XLS1000)
MiniMax Plus HP 230 (CP12)
WARNING
FOR YOUR SAFETY - READ BEFORE OPERATING
Warning: If you do not follow these instructions exactly, a fire or explosion may result, causing
property damage, personal injury or loss of life.
WARNING
Improper installation, adjustment, alteration, service or maintenance may cause property damage, personal injury or
death. Installation and service must be performed by a qualified technician or service agency.

OWNERS SECTION - TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. OPERATIONAL INSTRUCTIONS ..............................................................................................
a. Introduction & Design Features
b. Heater Control Panels & L.E.D. Status Lights
2. START UP PROCEDURES ...........................................................................................................
a. Compressor Warm Up Time
b. Filter System Cleaning
c. Operational Description
c. Circulation Pump Timer
d. Thermostat Setting
e. Heat Loss & Pool Covers
3. OWNERS CARE .............................................................................................................................
a. Placement Area
b. Sprinkler Placement & Plants & Condensation Run Off
c. Clearance and Air Flow.
d. Cleaning The Unit
e. Pool Circulation System Maintenance
f. Auto Vacuum's & Vacuuming
4. PLUMBING & WATER FLOW ....................................................................................................
a. Plumbing Connections & Auto Bypass
b. Large Water Pump Plumbing Bypass
c. Mandatory Chlorinator Loop & Check Valve
5. CHEMICAL & CHLORINATOR APPLICATION & USE ......................................................
a. Water Quality and Testing Values
a. Heat Exchanger Protection & Sacrificial Water Fittings
b. Chemical Feeder Placement & Use & Hand Feeding Chemicals
c. Commercial Feeders
d. Spa Chemical Application.
6. SHUT DOWN AND FREEZE PROTECTION PROCEDURES ................................................
a. Seasonal Shut Down
b. Short Term and Long Term Freezing Protection
7. OWNERS TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE................................................................................
8. ELECTRICAL WIRING SPECIFICATIONS BY MODEL NUMBER ....................................
8. HOW TO GET SERVICE .............................................................................................................
10. GLOSSARY OF TERMS .............................................................................................................
ADDITIONAL MANUALS AVAILABLE:
INSTALLATION MANUAL - TECHNICIAN ONLY
OPTIONS/ACCESSORY MANUAL - TECHNICIANS ONLY
OWNERS MANUALS
3 - 7
8 - 13
14 - 17
18 - 19
20 -24
25
26 - 27
28
29
30 - 33
Manufactured for Pentair Pool Products by HydroTemp Mfg. Co., Inc.

Owners/users should contact the factory service department for advice at:
HYDROTEMP MANUFACTURING CO., INC.
12155 Metro Pkwy, Ste. 5
Ft Myers, FL 33912
[phone]
[phone] (fax)
www.warmpool.com
RETURN ON INVESTMENT
The costs of installing a heat pump are somewhat higher
than a gas heater but you will save enough in opera-
tional costs to offset the difference, probably in the first
year or two. After a few heating seasons you will have
saved enough, compared to LP gas heat, to pay for the
entire heat pump and installation
.
LONGER SWIMMING SEASON
A heat pump is the least expensive way to heat your
pool. It will out perform solar by delivering heat on
demand, no matter how much sunshine is available. A
solar system with a gas back L.P. Gas back up will cost
more to operate than the heat pump alone.
In Florida, a heat pump offers a full 12 months of swim-
ming season compared to a solar systems 10 month
swimming season. A heat pump will provide higher
temperatures than a solar system. Solar will not heat a
spa on demand after sundown & during inclement
weather.
LOW MAINTENANCE
Maintenance cost can be more for a gas heater, consid-
ering the fact that a gas heater starts to lose efficiency
as it gets older. The heat pump's sealed system needs
far less attention.
Electric Oil Heat
Pump
$ 0.32
$1.65
LP Gas Natural
Gas
$1.10 $ 0.96
$2.34 Approximate
Cost Per 100,000 Btu's of Heat
HEAT PUMP EFFICIENCY
Your new highly efficient heat pump pool/spa heater
will deliver warm pool water for your comfort for pen-
nies a day. For every dollar you spend to run your heat
pump, you will receive between $4.00 and $5.00 worth
of heat in return. The heat pump transfers the heat from
the outside air to your pool or spa. Your heat pump
costs about 60 to 75 percent less than L.P. Gas heaters
to operate with less maintenance and gas storage tank
is not needed. Your heat pump produces no pollution
and no pilot lights to deal with.
THE MISUSE OF THIS PRODUCT CAN RESULT IN SEVERE INJURY, DEATH,
OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. BE ADVISED OF THE FOLLOWING CONDI-
TIONS THAT MAY EXIST:
1. ELECTROCUTION AND/OR FIRE DUE TO IMPROPER WIRING.
2. HAND AND HAIR ENTRAPMENT MAY OCCUR NEAR THE FAN LO-
CATED ON THE TOP OF THIS UNIT.
3. LOSS OF POOL WATER AND/OR FLOODING AND/OR PROPERTY DAM-
AGE.
4. DAMAGE AND/OR MISUSE TO THE PRODUCT RESULTING IN FAILURE
OR EXCESSIVE WEAR.
5. ALL ELECTRICAL WORK BY LICENSED PROFESSIONAL ONLY.
WARNING

4
Super Quiet & Highly Efficient Compressor Design
Sturdy Elevated
Fiberglass
Rust Proof
Bottom Provides
Proper Drainage
Large Aluminum & Copper
Lanced Fin
Evaporator Air Coil and
Coil Guard
Easy Connect
2 Inch Plumbing With
"Internal Automatic Bypass"
Up To 90 GPM
Sturdy Rust Proof
Fiberglass Top
Non Fading
Quiet
High Volume
Fan With
Vinyl Coated
Guard
Product
Name Plate
Chemical
Warning Label
Automatic Diagnostics With
L.E.D. Display & Electronic
Thermostat
Optional Pool/Spa Wiring
Access Holes
Separate Air Handling / Electric Compartment
An internal electrical compartment substantially reduces
future service from moisture and salt laden air flow.
TRANE®
COMPRESSOR
with 410-A, the safe
and clean refrigerant.
SPECIAL FEATURES
And
SCROLL
COMPRESSOR

The electrical panel has
an isolated compartment,
located within the me-
chanical compartment to
prevent corrosion there.
The heat from the com-
pressor located just below
the electrical compart-
ment helps eliminate mois-
ture as well. This exclu-
sive design will substan-
tially extend the life cycle
of the heater. The fiber-
glass cabinet is corrosion
proof and is much stron-
ger than plastic cabinets.
L.E.D. Status Lights
Self
Diagnostic Indicators
(On selected models)
Heat Exchanger
Special Cupronickel Alloy
Encased In A Block of Foam
to Prevent Heat Loss & Corrosion
DESIGN ADVANTAGES
Internal Automatic Bypass
Free Flow 2" Plumbing
Automatically adjusts the water flow.
Lowest water flow restriction available.
Internal
Automatic
Bypass
WARNING
The heater must be electrically grounded and bonded in accordance with local codes, or in the
absence of local codes, with the latest national electrical codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. All wiring
must comply with all local codes, or in the absence of local codes, with the latest national electri-
cal codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. For proper wire and/or breaker size, please refer to specification
sheet and your local licensed electrician. Always bond heat pump cabinet to pool steel and
ground to power supply.
4250

DUAL THERMOSTAT CONTROL PANEL
THERMOSTAT
The thermostat dial is just like any other,
when you set it at a certain setting the
heater will heat up to that temperature
and then shut off. When the pool/spa wa-
ter temperature drops below this setting
the heater will come on and start heating
the water back up to the setting on the
thermostat.
You will notice there are no number set-
tings printed on the dial face. There is a
certain procedure to follow to determine
the exact temperature you have the ther-
mostat set at. This is described further
on next pages.
The maximum setting for a thermostat is
104 degrees F. You will only be able to
reach this high temperature in a spa ap-
plication. Pool temperatures are nor-
mally between 78 and 82 degrees F. Ac-
tual pool temperatures are determined by
your installer, when the unit is sized to
your specifications. The lowest setting
on the thermostat is around 60 degrees F.
To disable the heater, turn the thermo-
stat dial all the way to the left. If you
live in a climate where the water tem-
perature may drop below 60 degrees F
you must shut the circuit breaker off.
Otherwise do not use the breaker as an
on/off switch.
See "Start up Procedures" regarding
compressor preheating if the main power
breaker is shut off. The compressor must
be preheated for 8 hours after the power
supply has been disconnected.
L.E.D. STATUS LIGHT PANEL
The indicator lights will help you determine that the unit is running
normally or if there is a condition that may keep the heater from
running. Note that the spa light is inactive on single thermostat
units. See next page for details on reading the status lights.
6
L.E.D. Status Lights
( See page 7 for details.)
DUAL Thermostat

POOL MODE "Yellow": The yellow pool mode in-
dicator light lets you know that you have selected the
pool mode with the pool /spa select switch, (dual ther-
mostat control only). This light will be off when the
control is in spa mode.
SPA MODE "Orange": The orange spa mode indicator light tells you that you have selected the spa mode
with the pool spa select switch, (dual thermostat control only). This light will be inactive when used with the
standard single thermostat control (pool only).WATER PRESS. OK "Green": The green water pressure OK
indicator light tells you that the internal water pressure switch is OK. The internal water pressure switch is used
to shut the heater on and off with the circulation pump. The heater should not run when the water pump is not
pumping water through the heater. Dirty filters and lint traps will cause low water flow to the heater and may
cause the water pressure switch to deactivate the heater. If this light stays off, clean all filters and check all
filter system valving to insure proper water flow. See pages 12, 13 and 20, for more information regarding
water flow requirements. When this water flow indicator light is off the t-stat light and the low and high press.
lights will not come on either and the heater will stay off.
T-STAT ON "Green": The green thermostat on indicator light is used to let you know that the thermostat is set
higher than the pool or spa water temperature. If the light is not on, turn the thermostat to a higher position and the
fan should then start, (compressor starts after a 5 minute delay). If the thermostat is already all the way up and the
light is still off, means that the pool or spa water temperature has reached the maximum of 104˚F + or - allowed.
When this light goes off, the heater has heated the pool or spa to the preset temperature. When this light is off the
heater and the low and high pressure lights will stay off.
LOW PRESS. OK "Green": The green low pressure indicator light is designed to let you know that the low side
refrigerant pressure is OK. If the refrigerant pressure was too low for the unit to operate this light the heater will
shut off. The heater is charged with Freon™ (refrigerant). If the outside air temperature drops below 40 degrees
the refrigerant pressure will drop below the required operational range. The internal low refrigerant pressure
switch will act as a defrost control to keep the unit from forming ice on the outer evaporator coil when this light is
off. It may also indicate that the unit may have a refrigerant leak as well. When this light is off the high pressure
light and the heater will be off as well.
HIGH PRESS. OK "Green": The green high pressure OK indicator light is used to tell you that the heater is
operating at the correct high side refrigerant pressure range. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the maximum
needed for proper operation, this light and the heater will shut off. Excessive high refrigerant pressure is usually
caused by low water flow through the heater. If this light goes out, clean the filtering system and check all
plumbing valves to insure proper water flow then try to restart the heater. See pages 8,18 and 19 for information
regarding water flow. When this light is off the heater will not run.
Control Ready "Green":The green control ready indicator light lets you know that the heater has power and it
is ready to heat. This light must be on before the heater can run. If this light is off, check you power supply and
circuit breakers. If this light is off, none of the others will light either.
L.E.D. STATUS LIGHT PANEL
(To use indicator lights see
troubleshooting guide pages 26 & 27)
CAUTION
The unit may still have "live voltage" when the control light is off.
NOTE: The bottom four indicator lights work in sequence from left to right.

8
START UP PROCEDURES
COMPRESSOR TIME DELAY
BE AWARE THERE IS A 5 TO 7 MINUTE TIME DE-
LAY BEFORE THE COMPRESSOR WILL START
ONCE THE UNIT IS TURNED ON OR WHENEVER
IT RESTARTS. All models.
TURN T-STAT ALL THE WAY DOWN
Make sure the thermostat dial is turned all the way to
the “LEFT” so the unit will not start until you are ready.
Then turn the circuit breaker on.
CLEAN FILTERING SYSTEM
Next, make sure that the pool filter is as clean as pos-
sible. A dirty filter will hamper the efficiency of the
unit and cause the unit to cycle on and off resulting in
damaging effects. Filters may look clean but can be
clogged with oils or minerals. Replacement is suggested
every year and a half for cartridge type filters. See manu-
facturers directions for proper filter cleaning methods.
Next clean the lint trap basket inside the circulation
pump. Then clean the skimmer leaf trap basket of all
debris. A clogged lint trap or skimmer basket will
restrict the water flow to the unit. Make sure there is
adequate water in the pool so that the skimmer does not
draw air. Never place any chemicals of any type, espe-
cially chlorine, in the skimmer.
ADVISE YOUR POOL SERVICE CO.
If you have a regular pool service on a weekly basis
make sure your owners manual available for them to
inspect. You may request that one be sent to them, by
calling the factory service department at [phone].
Be sure that they are aware of the chemical balance and
chemical introduction rules, in this manual. The condi-
tions in this manual must be followed in accordance with
the warranty, if for any reason, the heater is improperly
installed and or operated, the manufacturers warranty
may be void.
If you are unfamiliar with your pool filtering system,
you should consult your local pool company. The dia-
gram shown above are not of any specific brand but are
common in nature. The following diagram is of a typi-
cal filtering system.
WATER FLOW & EXISTING WATER PUMP
To filter the pool water each day, the water pump will
come on & off according to the existing timer device.
The heater will only heat if there is water running through
it.
Filter & Trap Locations
WATER PRESSURE SWITCH
If there is proper water flow through the unit
the water pressure switch will close allowing
the unit to run. When the circulation pump
timer stops the water flow, the water pressure
switch will shut the unit down. When the pump
restarts for the next day, the pressure switch
will close and allow the heater to run.
Water
Pressure
Switch
Location

9
HEAT EXCHANGER
The compressed hot refrigerant releases it's heat to the
pool water inside the heat exchanger. The exchanger is
a tube within a tube construction, water passing through
the inner tube, hot gas passing
through the outer tube. The refriger-
ant is transformed into a liquid state
as it exits the heat exchanger. There-
fore it is also referred to
as a condenser coil. (Heat & Cool Models,
process is reverse). The exchanger is en-
cased inside a block of closed cell foam to
prevent heat loss and corrosion.
See the cross section.
Turning up the thermostat will start the
unit running. When the pool water has
been heated to the thermostat setting, the
unit will shut off. When the pool water
temperature loses one to two degrees,
the thermostat will activate the unit.
There are no temperature graduate num-
bers printed on the thermostat face. To
obtain an exact temperature, turn the t-stat
all the way up and then place a pool type
thermometer in the pool water itself. Once
the water has reached your target tempera-
ture on the thermometer, turn the thermo-
stat knob backwards until the heater just
shuts off. Make a mental note of knob in-
dicator. Therefore your thermostat will be
set at the thermometer reading.
THERMOSTAT CONTROL & SETTINGS
FAN-AIR CIRCULATION
Once the t-stat is activated the
fan will begin to turn. To ab-
sorb heat energy, the fan circu-
lates warmer air through the
evaporator coil at about 4000
cubic feet per minute. The fan
runs independently from the
compressor. The compressor
will start within 5 to 7 minutes
after the fan.
COMPRESSOR
Once the fan is running, the compressor will start 5 to
7 minutes later, it's controlled by a time delay device.
The compressor pumps and compresses re-
frigerant gas. When refrigerant gas is com-
pressed it intensifies the heat before it is
release to the pool water. This compressed
hot gas is pumped through the heat ex-
changer where it delivers heat to the pool
water passing through the same heat ex-
changer.
EVAPORATOR AIR COIL
The fan circulates the warmer out-
side air through the evaporator air
coil to collect any available heat. The
cooler Freon™ absorbs this heat
causing it to evaporate into a gas.
Therefore the compressor can com-
press the gas to maximize the gain
heat from the air. The fan discharges
cooler air when the compressor is running. Process is
reversed in Heat & Cool models while in cooling mode.
Warm Water
In Cool Water Out
Warm
Air
In
Cool Air Out
Compressor
Air Coil Heat
Exchanger
Plumbing Bypass
Manifold
Freon™
Lines
Hot Gas
SYSTEM OVERVIEW
The heat pump system
uses 410-A refrigerant to
transfer the heat from the
outside air to the pool
water.
OPERATIONAL SEQUENCE
THERMOSTAT CONTROL & SETTINGS FOR
HEAT & COOL MODELS
For heating modes on these models,
make sure toggle is selected to heat and
follow the previous instructions above.
For cooling mode make sure toggle is
selected to cool. Turning down the ther-
mostat counter clockwise will start the
unit running. When the pool water has
been cooled to the thermostat setting,
the unit will shut off. When the pool
water temperature rises one to two degrees, the thermo-
stat will activate the unit. There are no temperature gradu-
ate numbers printed on the thermostat face. To obtain an
exact temperature, turn the t-stat all the way down and
then place a pool type thermometer in the pool water it-
self. Once the water has reached your target temperature
on the thermometer, turn the thermostat knob forwards
until the heater just shuts off. Therefore your thermostat
will be set at the thermometer reading.
Heat Cool

NORMAL RUNNING TIME
The heat pump system extracts the heat from the out-
side air and delivers it to your pool. Therefore it pro-
duces more BTU's (heat) the warmer it is outside. So
take advantage of the higher air temperatures during
the day by setting the timer for the warmest hours. Win-
ter operation (during cold fronts) may require longer
run times up to 16 hours daily.
SET THERMOSTAT TO MAXIMUM
Turn the thermostat dial all the way to the right. You
will turn the thermostat back to a lower position later,
as described on the next page. The fan should now be
turning.
There is a compressor start time delay and generally it
will not start for about 5 to 7 minutes. Cooler air will
come from the fan when the compressor is running.
Become familiar with the compressor sound and remem-
ber the compressor time delay.
Scroll compressors may not start on the first try. Allow
Scroll type compressors several starts and time delay
cycles before the compressor starts. This condition is
most common to new compressors or when starting
during colder air temperatures.
10
TIME CLOCK SETTING
Now that all the filters are clean and the pump is run-
ning with a full prime, you will need to set the pool
circulation pump timer. Set the filter pump time clock
for a long enough period of time to heat the pool or spa.
The heater will not operate unless there is water run-
ning through the heat exchanger supplied by the circu-
lation pump. Therefore, your pool will only heat dur-
ing the period set on the timer. When setting the timer,
be sure that you shut off the pool circulation pump cir-
cuit breaker. Then follow the timer manufacturers in-
structions to prevent electrical shock. Consult your
dealer first.
INITIAL HEAT UP TIME (HEATERS)
You should start by letting the circulation pump run 24
hours a day until the pool reaches the desired tempera-
ture. Once the pool is up to your desired temperature
you should reset the timer for a cycle of 6 to 18 hours
per day during the hottest part of the day. Heat up time
and operational time will vary with pool size, exposure
and weather conditions. Spas will require considerably
less time to reach temperature, usually in a matter of
hours if a cover is used.
INITIAL COOL DOWN TIME
(HEAT & COOL MODELS)
You should start by letting the circulation pump run 24
hours a day until the pool reaches the desired tempera-
ture. Once the pool is down to your desired tempera-
ture you should reset the timer for a cycle of 6 to 18
hours per day during the coldest part of the day. Cool
down time and operational time will vary with pool size,
exposure and weather conditions.
ADJUSTING THE TIMER
Timer styles vary, read the manufacturers instructions
before attempting to reset timer. Make sure the plastic
guard is in place. On this type of timer, note the On
and OFF trippers located on the clock face. If you
loosen the lock screw on the tripper you can move it to
a new time. Make sure the time of day is correct.
To run the 24 hours needed for the initial heat up, just
remove the "OFF" tripper. When the pool reaches tem-
perature, replace the tripper and set timer to run the water
pump during the hottest part of the day.
OFF Tripper Peg
ON Tripper Peg
24 Hour Clock Face
Time of Day
Indicator ON/OFF
Switch
COMMON MECHANICAL TIMER
Read your particular timer manufacturers instructions
to identify the one you have. Do not attempt to adjust
the timer unless you have read these instructions.

THERMOSTAT SETTING
There are no temperature reading numbers printed on the thermostat dial due to calibration changes from unit to
unit. The demand for exact temperatures should be regulated by using a high quality thermometer right in the pool
water. Normal temperatures for pools are 78 to 82 degrees F. Spa temperatures are 98 to a maximum of 104
degrees F.
You should place a high quality "tie on type" or a "floating type" thermom-
eter directly in the pool or spa water, so you can determine what tempera-
ture that is suitable to you. Check the pool temperature occasionally during
the heat up time until it has reached the temperature you desire.
Then go to the heater and turn thermostat counter clockwise, to the left,
away from warmer, SLOWLY until the unit just shuts off. Therefore, the
thermostat will be set exactly at the current temperature shown on your
floating thermometer. Make a mark on the thermostat dial so you know the
approximate setting that you desire.
Now the heater will come on each day when the circulation pump starts, then it will bring the pool up to that set
temperature. The pool will lose some heat overnight but will come back up to temperature with minimal delay. If
you have a pool and spa combination, you can set the spa thermostat the same way once you are in the spa heating
mode. When adjusting the thermostat, remember that it will take some time for the water temperature to reach a
higher setting. The cooler the outside air, the longer heat up time needed.
MAKE SURE YOU ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT BACK FROM THE HIGHEST POSITION SET DURING
THE START UP PROCEDURE OR THE POOL MAY GET TOO WARM. BE SURE TO RESET THE CIRCU-
LATION PUMP TIMER FOR 6 TO 18 HOURS PER DAY OR AS NEEDED, ACCORDING TO THE SIZE OF
YOUR POOL AND WEATHER CONDITIONS. COLDER CLIMATES WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME.
LARGER POOLS WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME. EXPOSED POOLS WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME. WIN-
TER TIME OPERATION WILL REQUIRE MORE OPERATIONAL TIME EACH DAY.
11
If the pool temperature on the thermometer reads 80 degrees F, and
you turn the thermostat to the "left" until the heater shuts off, the
thermostat will now be set at 80 degrees F.
Thermometer
104˚F
Max.
50˚F
Min. + or - 1.5˚F
CAUTION

RERADIATION CONVECTION EVAPORATION
WIND
CONDUCTION
Pool Shell
Pool Surface
Warm Pool
Water
UNDERSTANDING HEAT LOSS
It is important to understand how your pool loses heat. The greatest heat loss occurs at the water surface. You will
need to adjust the operational time to compensate for added heat loss during the colder months. See the diagram
on the next page. There are four types of heat loss to be concerned with:
Evaporation accounts for the greatest amount of heat loss. As the water changes from a liquid to a vapor it
requires heat taken from the pool. You are usually heating the pool when temperatures and humidity are low. The
temperature difference between the pool and outside air increase the evaporation rate. Windy conditions will
accelerate evaporation heat loss.
Convection is simply the loss of heat due to the cooler outside air moving across the waters surface. Heat moves
from hot to cold only, so the warmer pool heat transfers to the moving cooler air. Windy conditions will acceler-
ates heat loss. Pools and spas located on or nearby open area such as the ocean, lakes, fields or golf courses will
experience increased wind speeds therefore heat loss will be greater for these conditions. Evaporation and Con-
vection account for as much or more than 82% of the total heat loss.
Conduction is the transfer of heat from the warm pool through the pool or spa shell to the surrounding cooler
earth. Conduction only accounts for 5 % or less of the total heat loss. If you live in an area where the ground water
surrounds the pool shell and plumbing, this type of heat loss will be greater.
Reradiation is the transfer for heat from the warm pool to the cooler sky. Reradiation heat loss will be at it's
greatest on clear nights. Cloud cover will reduce this type of heat loss.
.
12

CONTROLLING HEAT LOSS
A good way to control heat loss is to slow the wind
speed through your pool area by placing plants such as
shrubs or bushes around the pool's perimeter. Plants
will break up the air flow and diffuse the wind speed.
If the pool area is to be fenced in, choose a wood shadow
box type design.
A solid type fence or wall does not act as a good wind
break. They tend to create a wind spoil (vortex) across
the water surface increasing air turbulence and heat loss.
Pools located in windy areas such as water front, golf
courses or open fields will experience greater heat loss.
COVERS SAVE TIME & MONEY
As discussed on the previous page, the greatest heat loss
is at the water surface. The very best way to reduce
heat loss (and operational cost), is to cover the pool or
spa.
Covering the pool or spa during the initial heat up time
will help the pool get to the desired temperature much
faster. If properly used, a cover can lower your total
operating costs as much as50%. Covers reduce evapo-
ration, thus you will save on pool chemicals and fill
water usage as well. 13
SPAS HEATING TIPS
It is strongly suggested that you use a cover during the
initial heat up time. This will save time as well as elec-
trical costs.
When heating a spa make sure that there are no air
bubbles coming from the air blower or hydrotherapy
air inlets. The air bubbles will dissipate the heat into
the air and prolong the heating time.
Electric air blowers inject cooler outside air into the
spa and will lower the temperature. You can shorten the
heating time of your spa by shutting off any air injec-
tion devices until the spa is up to the desired tempera-
ture.
If you have any health problems, high blood pressure
etc., consult a doctor before using a hot water spa. You
should get out of the spa and cool off every fifteen min-
utes. Do not consume alcoholic beverages while using
the spa. To prevent drowning, do not use the cover while
in the spa.
Using a pool cover can be somewhat cumbersome but
they are worth the trouble in regards to the great cost
savings. Covers are sometimes referred to as blankets
or solar blankets.
TYPICAL POOL BLANKET & ROLLER
WARNING
NEVER SWIM WITH POOL COVER ON. Swim-
mers can tangle easily in the pool cover and subse-
quently may result in drowning. See manufacturer's
Safety Precautions before using.

OWNERS MAINTENANCE & CARE
There are some considerations that should be taken concerning the environment where your heater is installed.
The heater is usually placed near the pool filtering system. There are certain things in this area you will need to be
aware of to insure long life and prevent unnecessary damage.
SPRINKLERS
Make sure there are absolutely no sprinkler heads near the heater that will in any way spray on or into the heater.
Sprinkler damage is not covered under the warranty agreement.
Make sure that they are a sufficient distance away so that normal winds
will not carry the mist to the heater. If your filtering system area has
plants that need water, use a trickle type irrigation sprinkler instead of
the broadcast type.
The heater is designed to handle the wettest weather conditions that are
typical of rain and humidity, etc. Sprinkler heads force high pressure
water into the unit from the side at an odd angle. Most sprinkler sys-
tems are connected to a well system. Most well water is high in miner-
als, sulphur and other aggressive contaminates. These contaminates
will leave a build up on the evaporator coils and electronics causing
corrosion and hamper the efficiency. If you are located within 15 miles
of the coast, salt may be in the well water also.
PLANTS
Plants in the installation area should be kept trimmed away to the proper clearances shown
here. Plants too close to the heater will restrict the air flow into the unit from the side as
well as air flow through the top. Plants also bring extra moisture and insects that may get
inside the unit. There should be enough clearance to easily service and adjust the heater.
CONDENSATION DRAINS
The unit will produce a condensation of water that will drain from the unit at a steady rate. This condensation is
from the humidity in the outside air. The more humidity, the more condensation the unit will produce. There are
several drain ports in the bottom of the unit, make sure they do not become clogged with debris. This condensation
will attract weeds and insects, make sure that the water drains properly and plants are kept trimmed. (Heat and
Cool Models) In the cooling mode this unit will produce no condensation.
The air handling compartment below the fan should be cleaned and vacuumed to remove debris that may clog the
condensation drains at the bottom of the heater. Accumulated debris will clog the condensation drains causing the
water to pool in the bottom of the heater. Accumulated condensation water will cause corrosion to the heaters
components. 14
CAUTION
Chemicals should NOT be stored near the heater. The fan may draw corrosive chemical vapor
through the unit causing damage. Do NOT store anything on top, underneath or around the heater.
You will need access to the disconnect breakers in the event of an emergency.

15
WATER PIPING LEAK ?
When the unit operates, it will produce condensation that will drain from the bottom of the unit. Do not mistake
condensation with a water piping leak. There is a certain procedure to follow to check the unit for leaks: Shut the
heat pump and filtering system off. Allow all the condensation to drain from the unit for at least an hour or so.
Then start the circulation pump only, leave the heater off. If the unit is still leaking water steadily, you may have
a water piping leak. The unit should not condensate when the heater is off. Consult your dealer.
AIR FLOW
Do not install the unit in an area where the cooler discharge air may accumulate and be drawn back into the unit.
Provide ventilation through containment walls or fencing for the air intake if needed. Do not install this unit
indoors or in filtering system equipment rooms. Do not restrict the air flow in any way.
ROOF RUN OFF
To prevent large amounts of rain water from running through the unit you may need to install a gutter and down
spout when the roof has a sharp pitch. IMPORTANT: Do not allow roof run off water to rush through the
unit. Do not install the unit under roof valleys, where two roof sections meet. The two roof sections channel water
to the valley and will allow massive amounts of water to run through the unit at high velocity.
CLEANING
To clean the heater, you should take a sponge and mild soapy water and wipe the surfaces clean. Do not use a
pressurized garden hose to clean the heater. Never force water into the unit from any direction. You may use a
garden hose at low pressure with no nozzle attachment. Clean the evaporator coils at least twice a year. If you live
near the sea coast you will need to clean at least four times a year to remove salt and sand. Use a very soft brush
with soap and gently remove any build up. Clogged evaporator coils will reduce the efficiency of the unit and
cause corrosion. Use a fin comb to straighten any minor indentations in the evaporator coils
Slab Evaporator
Coils
Do not allow roof
run-off to flow into
the unit.

FILTER CLEANING & CARE
Your filter system should be cleaned at least twice a
month. See manufacturer's directions for proper filter
cleaning methods. Size and conditions may require you
to clean the filter more often. A filter is considered
"dirty", whenever it restricts the flow rate by 10% or
more.
You can use the pressure gauge on the filter tank to de-
termine a restriction in the filter due to clogging. After
the filter has been replaced or when it is new, you should
record the actual operating pressure with a "clean fil-
ter". When the pressure increases more than 5 p.s.i.,
the filter should be cleaned. If the pressure does not
return to normal you must replace it. Make sure your
pressure gauge is kept in good working condition.
There are some after market filter element cleaning so-
lutions that will help remove oil and minerals that may
clog the filter. Oil and minerals can not be removed
with normal cleaning and back-washing. Spas are par-
ticularly susceptible to oil build up in the filter. Do not
acid wash a filter until you have removed all oil and
grease with a solution designed to remove such. Acid
washing a filter with oil in it will cause that oil to be-
come permanently embedded in the fibers. Cartridge
filter element replacement is suggested every 1 to 2
years. Sand filters should have the sand replaced every
3 to 5 years. D.E. type filter elements should be re-
moved and soaked in a solution at least every two years.
WATER FLOW
Proper water flow is critical to the heaters performance
and longevity. The maintenance of your filtering sys-
tem is directly related to the proper operation of the
heat pump. See pages 8 for other information regarding
filter cleaning and the start up procedures.
CIRCULATION PUMP
The circulation pump must be kept in good working
order to provide a steady rate of flow to the heater and
filtering system as a whole. The circulation pump must
be producing a flow rate in accordance with the manu-
facturers specifications within 10%. The pump should
run with a "full prime" without excessive restriction on
the vacuum and pressure side of the filtering system.
VACUUM & PRESSURE LEAKS
All vacuum and pressure leaks in the filtering system
must be eliminated immediately after occurring. Air
allowed into the filter system from the vacuum side of
the circulation pump will cause premature wear and
physical erosion to the heat exchanger and water pip-
ing inside the heater. Air turbulence will cause the wa-
ter pressure switch to malfunction.
Pressure leaks on the filtering system will allow the sys-
tem to lose vacuum and cause the water in the filter and
piping to back siphon or reverse flow through the sys-
tem when the circulation pump is off. Reverse flow
may cause the water pressure switch to malfunction.
CHLORINATORS
See chlorinator placement and chemical use guide-
lines.
FILTER SYSTEM MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS
Air Bleed
Valve
PSI
Gauge
Locking Nut &
O-Ring
O-Ring
Element
Filter Tank
Typical
Cartridge
Filter
Inlet Outlet
Pump Lid
"Suction"
Inlet
Electric
Motor
Lint Trap
Discharge Outlet
"Pressure"
Impeller
Housing
Typical Circulation Pump
16

Often times, when these auto vacuums begin to wear,
they require more suction from the pump to operate.
Diverting all vacuum through the auto vac may help it
run better but will restrict the overall water flow through
the entire system and the heater.
If you have a low water flow situation where the heater
is not getting enough water through the condenser coil,
remove the pool vac and open all skimmer and main
floor drain vacuum valves to provide maximum flow.
The auto vac manufacturer has a special valve that plugs
into the skimmer before the auto vac hose. These spe-
cial valves will properly regulate the water flow through
the auto vac without creating too much vacuum restric-
tion on the skimmer suction port.
The hose connecting the auto vac to the skimmer should
be checked for the presence of suction leaks that allow
air into the system. (See damage caused by vacuum
leaks previously). As the auto vac hose gets older and
sun damaged, it may develop an air vacuum leak or
known as a "suction leak".
In all cases, you should do what ever necessary to gain
the proper water flow through the heat exchanger. Once
the pool vac is working, make sure you have the proper
water flow through the heater at all times. If the low
flow created by an auto vac is causing a problem with
the unit, it is not considered a warranty condition.
AUTOMATIC POOL VACUUMS
Automatic pool cleaners will decrease the water flow
by restricting the suction of the circulation pump. Most
automatic type pool cleaners operate from the suction
provided by the circulation pump.
Some automatic pool vacuums are plugged into the
skimmer suction port. The main floor drain is then re-
stricted some, so that the auto vac has enough vacuum
to operate. It can then move freely and not become
stuck to the main drain port.
Typical
Automatic
Pool Cleaner
17
When manually vacuuming the pool or performing ser-
vice to the filtering system, "shut the heater off !"
When the vacuum hose is plugged in, it may cause the
pump to loose prime due to the air in the hose. You
may also need to restrict the main drain suction port to
gain more vacuum to the vacuum hose and head. This
will lower the overall flow through the unit and cause it
to cycle on & off, possibly causing damage. Shut the
heater off whenever there is a chance of restricted wa-
ter flow or loss of prime.
PROFESSIONAL SERVICE
As part of routine maintenance you should schedule a
licensed air conditioning contractor or the factory ser-
vice department to check the refrigeration circuit and
components of the heat pump against factory specifica-
tions. An improper adjustment or diagnosis by others
may limit your warranty. You can call the factory ser-
vice department for a list of factory authorized service
centers in your area. Have all the refrigeration compo-
nents checked against the factory specifications. You
can request this information from the factory service
department.
Verify correct installation according to the owners and
installation manuals. Verify water flow through the heat
exchanger and filtering system. Check all chlorinator
placement and pool water balance. Test the supply volt-
age, amperage draw, wire size against factory specifi-
cations and local codes. Test the operating refrigerant
pressures and corresponding components to factory
specifications. Adjust refrigerant according to the sub
cooling reading and factory specification.
Clean and flush the evaporator coils to remove debris,
salt and mineral build up at least twice a year. Clean
more often if you live in a costal and or sandy environ-
ment. Clean them with a mild soap and a very soft
brush. Do not use a pressurized garden hose. The air
handling compartment below the fan must be cleaned
of debris regularly. Contact an air conditioning con-
tractor for proper methods of cleaning the evaporator
coils. Remember to make sure the irrigation sprinkler
system does not spray on the unit!
The fan motor should be oiled when the unit is serviced
otherwise once per year or more if needed. Coastal in-
stallation should oil the fan motor 4 times per year or
more depending on exposure.
CAUTION

The heat pump in equipped with
a internal "Automatic Bypass"
valve. A variable rate spring
valve is used to regulate the wa-
ter flow through the heat ex-
changer. Steady flow will be de-
livered over a wide range of flow
rates. This automatic valve can
handle a maximum flow rate of
90 gallons per minute.
The automatic valve will com-
pensate for flow loss due to nor-
mal filter debris accumulation or
changes if flow due to valving
and other conditions.
See chlorinator
placement guidelines.
PLUMBING CONNECTIONS
Filtered Water “IN” on the LEFT front.
Heated Water "OUT" on the RIGHT front.
The plumbing inlets are "slip" p.v.c. pipe that will accept
a 2 inch p.v.c. glue fitting. The pipe is left plain so you
can adapt to your needs. Use p.v.c. cleaner to prime the
fitting and pipe. Use a quality medium body p.v.c. glue.
FOR PUMPS UP TO 2 H.P. OR 90 G.P.M. MAX.
SEE PAGE 19 FOR LARGER WATER PUMPS.
Automatic Bypass Valve
Variable Rate Self Adjusting
up to 90 G.P.M.
PLUMBING & WATER FLOW
INTERNAL AUTOMATIC BYPASS
See mandatory chlorinator placement
and install of the loop & check valve.
Water
Pump
Filter
Chlorinator or
Chemical Feeder
Heater
Chlorinator Loop & 2 lb. Chem.
Resistant Check Valve
WATER IN
WATER
OUT
1. PUMP
2. FILTER
3. HEATER
4. LOOP & CHECK
5. CHLORINATOR
6. RETURN TO POOL
Warning
No Chemicals In
Skimmer !!
IN
OUT
Special
Compression Fitting
Sacrificial Chemical Protec-
tion Piping
Marine Grade
Cupronickel
Heat Exchanger
Encased in
Closed Cell Foam
Free Flow
Flexible
Water Inlets
WARNING

8" 2 LB
CHEMICAL
RESISTANT
CHECK VALVE
Part# 888-018
LOOP ABOVE
TO
POOL
CHLORI-
NATOR
FROM
HEATER
The chemical resistant check valve and loop must be in-
stalled with all types of chlorinators to prevent chlorine
migration to the heater. The loop should extend at least 8
inches above the chlorinator top. The chemical resistant check
valve should be placed on the pipe leading "up" to the chlo-
rinator. Therefore, the weight of the water above the check
valve will hold it closed even if the spring is weak or dam-
aged. Mount it as low as possible. Be sure to keep the chlo-
rinator, pump and filter lid o-rings lubricated with silicone
grease to insure a good seal. If it looses its seal, it will allow
the chlorine to migrate to the heater when the system shuts
off. The loss of vacuum allows reverse flow. 19
"Excessive Flow Valve Manifold"
Do not valve in a manner that will totally
isolate heater from water flow see page 25.
EXCESSIVE FLOW BYPASS MANIFOLD FOR LARGE
2 H.P. PUMPS OR OVER 90 G.P.M.
If the pool circulation pump is over 2 HP OR if the total
flow exceeds 90 GPM you will have to add the "excessive
flow valve" as shown here. Do not install a bypass valve
that will completely shut off flow to the heater, see shut-
down procedures.
Some larger water pumps may be restricted if the pipe size is
not adequate therefore reducing its overall flow rate. When
determining if you need an excessive bypass valve, one has to
consider the hydraulic restriction of the filter, valving, amount
of 90˚ fittings and the distance of pipe to the pool in the exist-
ing filtering system. If you have a 2 HP water pump that does
not exceed 90 G.P.M. considering the above, you may not need
the excessive bypass. Excessive water flow can damage the
heat exchanger. SPECIAL NOTE: See chlorinator place-
ment instructions at the bottom of this page.
HIGH RATE WATER PUMPS
Ball Valve
@ 45 Deg.
Bypass Pipe Size:
1.5" or 2" pipe @ 2 H.P.
2" pipe @ 3 +.H.P
2" p.v.c. "T"
2" p.v.c. "T"
All others must be set by flow meter.
See Commercial Plumbing Diagram
2 H.P Pumps
Close Bypass 50% 3 H.P. Pumps Close Bypass 25%
BE SURE THE BYPASS VALVE IS
POSITIONED TO ALLOW REMOVAL
OF THE FRONT ACCESS PANEL!
Position the valve so that the access panel can be
easily removed, always check before final glu-
ing. Angle the valve out 45˚ to provide adequate
clearance. You may use a 2-way valve or other
type if desired. "Do not" use a brass gate valve
or a 3-way valve for bypass !
Exercise care when installing chemical feeders so as not to allow
back siphoning of chemicals into the heater, filters or pump.
CAUTION
CAUTION
Place plumbing so
access panel can
be opened

WATER BALANCE MAINTENANCE
The chemical balance of your pool/spa water and the methods used in adding pool chemicals will directly effect
the life of your heater. Like no other precaution you could take, it is very important that these guidelines are
followed in order to prevent damage to the heat exchanger/water coil and possibly the entire system.
Improperly maintained water balance and incorrect introduction of pool chemicals will cause extreme corrosion to
the heat exchanger. If this condition goes unnoticed, it will eventually damage the compressor and evaporator coil.
The heat exchanger in your unit is made of the highest quality cupronickel metal alloy. This makes the heat
exchanger as chemical resistant as possible. The heat exchanger will withstand what is considered normal pool
water balance. Unfortunately, chemical damage is usually diagnosed after the unit has failed because the corrosive
pool/spa water attacks the metal from the inside out.
The following are water balance specifications that are considered standard pool and spa water testing values and
quality. These water balance values are the industry standard in which professional pool contractors follow. Make
sure your pool water is tested and balanced on a weekly basis or more if required. Spas will need extra attention.
20
SACRIFICIAL WATER FITTINGS
Alloy Heat
Exchanger
Sacrificial
Water Fittings
Note: The internal 90˚ elbows show in this diagram are de-
signed as a sacrificial fittings to protect the very expensive cu-
pronickel alloy heat exchanger.
These fittings may develop a leak if the pool water balance gets
very acetic or very over chlorinated. If there were no sacrificial
fittings, chemical damage could cause a "breach" from the water
passage to the refrigerant passage. If a" breach" occurs in the
heat exchanger, chlorinated water would be pumped into the re-
frigerant system thus making the heater non-repairable! The sac-
rificial fittings act as an early warning indicator to the user that
the pool water balance is not correct, chemicals are being fed im-
properly (through the skimmer) or the flow rate has been exceeded.
The sacrificial fittings alert the user before "it's too late"
STANDARD POOL WATER
BALANCE REQUIREMENTS
Ph................................7.4 to 7.8
Chlorine/Bromine.......1 to 5 ppm
Total Alkalinity...........90 to 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness......250 to 400 ppm ADVANCED HEAT EXCHANGER DESIGN
This diagram is a cross section of the heat exchanger. The seam-
less tube within another tube design transfers heat very efficiently.
The inner water tube is made of thicker resilient cupronickel metal
alloy to help resist corrosive pool water. The outer heavy gauge
Freon™ tube is dipped in a special weather proofing material.
Then to insulate from heat loss and help prevent exterior corro-
sion the heat exchanger is encased in a block of special closed cell
foam.
Water Passage
Cupronickel
Metal Alloy
Closed Cell Insulation Foam
Hot
Refrigerant
Passage
Heat Exchanger Cross Section
WARNING
See your local pool dealer for help in properly balancing the water chemistry.
Chemical damage to the unit and / or heat exchanger in any way is not covered under the warranty agreement.