Pfaff 28 User manual

PFAFF
28
Cylinder
Bed Right
Arm Sewing
Machine
with
Beak
Shutt%e
INSTRUCTION
BOOK
G.
M.
PFAFF
AG,
Sewing Machine
Factory,
KAISERSLAUTERN

FIGURE
8
FRiCTION
‘“LEVER
D
Page
11

Page
2
7
3
4
7
7
6
8
8
Section
Index
1, Dehvery
of the
Machine
2.
Engaging
and
Disengaging
the
Sewing
Mechanism
Bobbin
Case
3.
Threading
the Needle
4,
Winding the
Bobbin
5.
Changing
the Bobbin
and Threading
the
6.
Drawing
Up the
Bobbin
Thread
7. Regulating
the
Thread
Tensans
8. Regulating
the
Pressure
an the
Material
9. Ch.oosng
the
Proper Needle
10.
Inserting
the
Needle
11.
Regulating
the Length
of Stitch
12. The
Knee
Lever
Presser
Foot
Liftnr
13.
Taking
Out
the
Beak
Shuttle
14. Tilting
the Machine
Over
15,
Maintenance
of the
Machine
16. The
Treadle
Stand
17. Power
Drive
18. Cylinder
Bed Extensions
11
11
12
12
13
13
15
15
16
inside
back cover
19.
Probable
Causes
of Sewing
Troubles

Instruction Book
PFAFF
28
Cylinder Bed Right Arm
Sewing Machine
Fitted with
standard or
extra
large beak shuttle,
link
fake-up,
knee lever
presser
foot lifter,
reversible drop feed, wooden
extension
or iron screw-on work support for flat seaming oper
ations, provided for foot, individual
motor or power bench drive

1. Delivery of the Machine
Unless
shipped directly,
every sewing machine, when
received at our
dealers, is
unpacked, carefully checked for possible damage
inflicted in
transit, cleaned, and tested for perfect sewing before
being released For
delivery to the
customer.
2.
Engaging and Disengaging the Sewing
Mechanism
Two varieties
of the
PFAFF 28 are available:
1. with standard-size
beak shuttle;
2.
with extra large beak
shuttle.
Machines equipped
with standard-size beak shuttles have
abalance
wheel with
exchangeable pulley so as to permit easy conversion of the
machine
far foot or power
drive respectively.
The machines are
shipped with the sewing mechanism disengaged
so
that only the pulley
will rotate
when treadling
or starting the motor. To
engage
the sewing mechanism,
hold the balance wheel
with your
left hand
and turn the large
knurled lock nut R wth your right hand clockwise
in the
direction of the arrow (see
photo
il.
When lock nut
R is turned counter-clockwise,
the
sewing mechanism
is
disengaged
for winding the bobbin.
Ta increase
the piercing
power of the needle, the
machines with extra
large
beak
shuttles are fitted
with a
larger and heavier balance
wheel
with fixed
pulley
so
that
it
is nat
possible to
disengage the sewing
mechanism
of these
machines.
Photo 1
2

3.
ThreadIng the
Needle
As
shown
in
photo
2,
pass
the
thread
from spool
1
through
the
three
slotted
holes
of
thread
guide
2,
around and
between
the
tension
discs
3,
through
check
spring 4,
beneath
guide
5,
through
eyelet
6,
right-left
through
take-up
7,
through
eyelets
8
and 9,
needle
bar eyelet
10, and
then left-right
through
needle
eye
11.
Note:
As
with all
sewing
machines, the
needle
of the
PFAFF
28 is threaded
in
“long
groove—short
groove”
direction.
Photo
2
3

4. Winding
the Bobbin
All PEAFF 28
machines are
equipped with
a
table winder
which hos
proved
very useful
in all sewing
shops.
As
shown
in
photo
3,
place
spool
1
on
pin
2,
and the
empty bobbin
on
spindle 6. Pass
the thread from spool
1
through the
hole
3,
between
tenson
discs
4, over
pin 5,
and
through
the slot in the face
of the bobbin. By press
ng down
engaging
lever 7,
the bobbin
winder pulley
is pushed
over against
the
belt of the
machine and
the
winder
is engaged.
Now start
the machine.
When
the bobbin
is filled, the
throw-off lever
8
will
stop the bobbin
winder
automatically.
The empty bobbin
is taken out of the
machine,
the
full
bobbin
removed
from the
spindle
and
the thread torn
off. Then the full bobbin
is
inserted
in
the machine
and the empty bobbin
placed on
the
spindle for
rewinding.
This way,
a
considerable time
saving
is
effected
since a
full bobbin is at
hand at any time.
Also the operators
of machines with
disengageable balance
whel
will
profit
from
this ideal way
of winding the
bobbin,
I
Photo
3
4

5.
Changing
the
Bobbin
and Threading
the Bobbin
Case
Raise
the shuttle
race cop
by
slightly pushing
it up
with
thumb and
index
finger
of your left
hand
so that
it can be
slipped
over the
head of
screw
a
(see
photo 4),
then
let it
hong by
the hinge
screw.
Turn the
balance
wheel
until the
beak
shuttle
is
in
is
extreme
right-hand position.
The
b
ak
shuttle
can now
easily
be
opened
with
the
index finger
of
your
left
hand
as
shown
in photos
5
and 6,
and
the
bobbin
taken
out.
When
inserting
the
full bobbin,
care
must
be
token
that the
thread
is
pulled
from
below
into
slot b
as
shown
in
photo
7 so that
the
bobbin
will
Photo
4
turn
clockwise
when
the
thread
is
unreeled.
A
slight
pressure against
the
hinged shuttle
cap
will make
it
snap
into
position.
Then hold
the bobbin
and
draw
the bobbin
thread
down
somewhat
so that
it
slips
completely
under
the
tension
spring
and
comes
out
again
through
delivery
eye
c
(see
photo
8).
6.
Drawing
Up
the
Bobbin
Thread
1, Hold
the end
of the
needle
thread.
2.
Turn the
balance
wheel
slowly
until
the bobbin
thread
comes
up
in
a
loop
through
the
needle hole
(see photo
9).
Photo 5
5

3.
Lay both
threads
back under
the
presser
foot.
Basic
Role:
Stop the machine
or
commence
sewing
only
with
the
take.up
in
its
highest
position.
This precaution
will
keep
the
thread
from slipping
out
of
the
needle
eye and
will
prevent
jamming
of
the
thread
in
the
shuttle
roce.
In
this
case
it
is
not
necessary
to
hold
the
needle
and bobbin
threads
when
commencing
to
sew.
Photo 6
7.
Regulating
the
Thread
Tensions
To
obtain a
perfect
seam,
observe
the
following
points:
The
needle and
bobbin
threads
should be
locked
in
the
center
of the
moteriol
as
shown
in
figure 10.
Turning
the
tension
nut M
clockwise
,
will
increase
the
needle
thread
tension;
turning
it
counter-clockwise
,
will
decrease
the
ten
sion
(see
photo
2).
Photo
7
6

The bobbin
thread
tension
is regulated
by
means
oF
the
small
screw
driver.
Turning
tension
screw
d (see
photo
8)
clockwise
, will increase
the tension;
turning it
coueter-clockwise
-<
will
decrease
the
tension.
Since most
of the
stitching
work
done
on
the PFAFF
28
coIls
not
only
for perfect
but also
for strong
and
durable
seams,
the thread
tensions
must
be
regulated
very
coefully.
The
seam
must
show
tightly
drawn and
straight
sttchus
which are
locked
in the
cene
oF the thickn,ss
of he
ma ter
ia.
F;g.
10
It
is
absolutely
essential
to
use
top-quality
threads.
Never
use
cheap
threads
of inferior
quabty
which
might impair
the quality
of the
whole
work.
To
properly
regulate
the
thread
tens:ons
requres
some e;
per:ence
until one
can
tell
whether
the
needle
thread
tension is
too tght
cis
shown
in
fig.
11) or the
bobbin
thread tension too loose.
Photo
8
Photo
9
7

In fig.
12,
the
needle
thread
tension
may be
too
loose
or
the
bobbin
thread
tension
too
tight.
The
operator
will
have to
decide
in
each
individual
case
whether
or not
either
tension
requires
adjustment,
particularly
so
the
thread
forms
small
krots
or
loops
on the
upDer
or
underside
of thc
material.
Fig.
11
Note:
The
neede
thread
tension
can
only
be adjusted
with
the
presser
bar
lowered,
as
raising
the
presser
bar
will automatically
release
thu
tension.
8. Regulating
the Pressure
on
the Material
According
to the
use
for which
they
are
intended,
the PFAFF
28
sewing
machines
are
fitted
either
with
a
roller
presssr
or with
a
presser
foot.
Proper
feeding
and
even stitching as
weil
as
preventing
injury
to
the
underside
of
the material
through
the teeth
oF the
feed
dog
depend
on
the
proper
adjustment
of
the
pressure
on
the material
exerted
by
the
ralier
presser
or
presser
foot.
Through
turning
adjusting cap
screw
V
inwardly,
the
pressure
on
the
material
in
increased;
and
through
turning
it
outwardly
cEEC
, decreased
(see
photo
7).
For
stitching
delicate
leather,
it
is
absolutely
necessary
to adjust
the
pressure
on the
material
very
carefully
in accordance
with the
thckness
and
the
quality
of the
leather
to be
sewn.
9
Choosing the
Proper
Needle
Far
obtaining
perfect
seams
in leather
work with
PFAFF
28
machines,
it is
imperative
that
the proper
needle
sizes
be
chosen.
8
Fig.
12

If the
needles
are
too
thick for
the material
to be
sewn,
ugly
needle marks
will
show
in
the
material.
With
long,
thin needles,
vibration
of the
needle
can hardly
be
avoided.
Therefore,
two needle
systems
comprising
needles
of
different
lengths
are
used
with
PFAFF
28 machines,
depending
on
the type
of work.
For
machines
intended
far
fine stitching
in lightweight
leather,
short
needles
with
round
shank,
System
690,
are
used. This
short
needle
does
not vibroe
and
can
be
twisted somewhat
to
obtain
perfect
loops
with any
grade
of thread.
System
690
needles
are
available
with
different
needle
points
as
follows:
System
690
R
is a
needle
with round
point used for
sewing
fabrics.
System
690
P
is a
needle
with
wedge
point,
the cutting
edge
of the
needle
running
in
the
direction
of the
needle
eye.
Therefore,
the
needle
mark
in the
material
is
transverse.
This needle
is
chiefly
used
for ornamental
stitching
in fine
leather.
System
690
LL
is
a
needle
with reverse-twist
point,
the
cutting edge
of
the needle
running
diagonal
from
left to right
(looking
on
the
needle point).
Its needle
mark
in
thr
material
is
oblique.
This
needle
is used
for
sewing
hard
leather
with
short
stitches.
The
sub-classes
used for
sewing
thicker
leather
are
fitted with the
longer
flat-shank needle,
System
80&
Also
this needle
can
be
had
with needle
points
R,
P and LL.
Table
of
Needle
Sizes
Variety
Needles
Systam
Needle
Size
PFAFF
28-8
A.B
690
80-110
PFAFF
28-9
A B
690 80-110
PFAFF
28 10 C
D
805
120-180
PFAF
2815
BC
805
90-140
EFAFF
28-17 B
805
80-110
PFAFF
28-17
C
805
110-160
PFAFF
28-18
B
805
80-110
PFAFF
28-18
C
805
110-160
PFAFF
28-33
AB
690
80-110
PFAFF
28-133AB
190
90-110
PFAFF
28-155
B
805
90-110
PFAFF
28-155C
805
110-140
PFAFF
28-190A/B
690
80-110
PFAFF 28-192
805
90-140
PFAFF
28-199
805
120-180
Length
of
Needle
System
690:
1;”
long
805:
1 ,“
long
190:
1.929” long
The proper
needle
size
should
be
selected
very carefully
from the
follow
ing
tajle so
as
to match
the
thread
and mcgterial
used.
9

Needle
and
Thread
Chart
PFAFF
Needle
Thread Weight
Class
of
Work
Size
Cotton
90-60
Rayon
40-30
very
fine
leather,
8
Silk,
continuous
fiber 00
flimsy
fabrics
Silk,
staple
fiber
24
Cotton
60-40
Rayon
30-24
fine
leather,
Silk,
continuous
fiber
0
fine
linings
Silk,
staple
fiber
22
Cotton
50-30
medium
leather,
Rayon
30-24
10
..
fine
shoe
uppers and
bags,
Silk,
continuous
fiber
A
medium fabrics
Silk,
staple
fiber
20
Cotton
40-30
Rayon
24-16
cowhide leather
work,
11
Linen
80-70
knapsacks,
Silk,
continuous
fiber
B
light
canvas,
etc.
Silk,
staple
fiber
18
Cotton
30-21
cowhide
leather work
Rayon
16-2
-
light
brietcases
12
Linen 70-50
shopping
bags,
etc.
Silk,
continuous
fiber C
oilcloths
Silk,
staple
fiber
16
Linen
50-40
13
Rayon
12-8
Silk
continuous
fiber
D
medium-heavy
leather,
Silk
staple
fiber
14
-
bandages,
Linen 40-35
cowhide work
shoe
uppers,
14
Rayon
8
oiled
cloths,
Silk,
continuous
fiber E
leather garments
15
Linen
35-25
Rayon
8
16
Linen
30-20
heavyweight leather,
17
Linen 25-18
football
boots,
footballs,
18
Linen 20-18
mountain
boots,
light saddler
work
19
Linen
18
10

1O
Inserting the
Needle
In any
case,
the
needle
is
to be
pushed
up in
the
needle
bar
as
far
as
it
will go
and
to be
fastened
securely.
Flat-shank
needles,
System
805,
ore to
be
inserted
with the
flat
side
of the
shank
facing
the
needle bar.
However,
inserting
round-shank
needles,
System
190 and
690, should
present
no
problem
if the following basic
rule
is observed:
In
all sewing
machines,
the
short
groove
of
the needle
should
face
the
shuttle.
11.
Regulating
the
Length
of
Stitch
the
PFAFF
28
has
its
stitch
regulator
conveniently
arranged
under
the
arm.
This device
allows
to
regulate
the
length
of stitch
and
to
reverse
the
direction
of feeding
for
tying
off
seams.
The
stitch
regulator
lever
is
provided
with
a
large
thumb
screw
A
(see
photo
13)
which
serves
to
set
and
limit the length
of
stitch
as
desired.
A scale
conspicuously
arranged
under
the
arm
indicates
the
stith
length
in
millimeters.
If the
pointer
of
the
stitch
regulator
points
at zero,
the
machine
does
not
feed
at
all.
When the
lever
is
pulled
toward
the operator,
the machine
will feed
forward,
the length
of
stitch
being
indicated
by
the
pointer
on
the
scale.
If, after
setting
the stitch
regulator
lever
at
the length
of
stitch
desired,
the
screw
A
is turned
inwardly as
far
as it
will
go
and
the lever
is
then
pushed
over from
the
operator,
the
machine
will feed
reverse
making
stitches
of about
the
same
length
as
for
forward
sewing.
Note:
Use
reverse
feeding
only
for
tying
off
the ends
of
seams.
Photo
13
11

12.
The
Knee
Lever
Presser
Foot Lifter
With
the
exception
of
sub-class
28-15, all
PFAFF
28
machines
are
provid
ed
with
aknee lifter
which
permits
to
raise
and
lower
the
roller
presser
or
presser
foot
by
knee
control
and
allows
the
operator
to
rnaniouiate
the
work
with
both
hands
when
performing intricate
sewing
operations.
The
knee
lever
pad
can
easily be
adjusted
vertically
and
horizontally
so
as
to
suit
every
operator.
13.
Taking Out
the
Beak
Shuttle
When
it
becomes
necessary
to
take
out the
beak
shuttle
for
a
thorough
cleaning or
for
removing
thread
amming
in
the
shuttle
race,
remove the
shuttle
race cap
(as
instructed
in
paragraph 5(,
loosen
the
two
fastening
screws
e and
f,
and
take
off
the
shuttle
race
ring
(see
photo
81
When
doing
this,
make
sure, the
needle
bar
is
in
its highest
postion
and
the
shuttle
held
fast,
If
the shuttle
should
fall
on the
floor,
its
glasshard
point might
break
off.
It is
easy
to
open
the
shuttle
when
it is
done
as
shown
in
pholos
14
and
15.
Photo
14
Photo
15
12

The
extra
arge
beak
shuttle
which
is
used
in
canjunction
with
longer
needles
is
of
the
same
type as
the standard-size
beak
shuttle,
the
only
difference
being
ts
larger size
to
accomodate
abobbin of
a
greater
capa
city.
14.
Tilting
the Machine
Over
Compared
with
the
obsolete
PFAFF
23
and 25
Cylinder
Bed
Sewing
Machines,
the PFAF
28
features
a
considerable
improvement
in
that
its
sturdy base
is
divided
so
as
to
permit
tilting
the
machine
back and rest(ng
its
head on
the
wooden
support
after
loosening
wing
screw F
and
swinging
back
the
catch G
(see
photo
16).
15.
Maintenance
of
the
Machine
Ccreful
cleaning
ond
adequate
lubrication
will
considerably
increr’se
the
service
life
of
your
machine.
But
please,
do
not squirt
oil
into
every opening
of
the
machine
since
excessive
oil
is
apt
to
soil
your
work.
Oil
should
only
be
applied
to
all
oiling points
marked
with
arrows
in
photos 17
and
18.
Top-quality
sewing machine
oil
can
be
obtained
from
every
PFAFF
dealer.
A
crop
of
oil
should
also
be
applied
occasionally
to
the
link
parts
of
the
take-up
see
photo
171.
Photo
16
13

As a
rule,
all
bearings
and
parts
n
movable
contact
are
to
be oiled.
After
the
machine has
been
tilted
over (as
instructed
in
poragroph
1
4),
the
parts
inside the
vertical
part
of
the
arm
are eosily
occesstble
(see
photo
16).
The
machine
will repay
thorough
cleaning
and
proper
oiling
with
light
running
and
perfect
stitching.
All
fluff
that
hos
accumulated
between
feed
dog
and
needle
plate
should
be
brushed
off as
often
as
possible
as,
otherwise,
its
abrasive
effect
would
wear
off
the
shuttle
unduly.
Before
cleaning
the
machine,
it
is
advisable
to
remove
the
needle
to
prevent
inlury
to
your
fingers.
/
I
Photo
(7
14

Packed
dust
or
fluff
should
be
carefully
removed
with a
pointed
pece
of
wood.
Scissors
and
screw drivers ore unsuitable
for
this
purpose.
The
lacquer
finish
of the
machine
does
not
require
special
maintenance.
It
is
sufficient
to
rub
off
the
machine
now
and
then with
same
kerosene
and
to polish
it
with a
soft
cloth.
Only
in
very
rare
machine
exclusively.
cases
will
the
PFAFF
28
be
used
as
a
foot
driven
Maintenance
of the
treadle
stand with the
ball
bearing
pitnian
rod
is
very simple.
It
is
entirely
sufficient
to
apply
a
drop
of
oil
to
the crank
tips
and
the treadle
studs
occasionally.
The
ball
bearing
of
the
pitman
rod
is
filled
with
preservative
grease
which
will
make lubrication
superfluous for
a
long
time. When the
grease
is
to
be
replenished
later,
make
sure
that
only
preservative
grease
be
used.
Oil
would
be
flung
out
when the
machine
runs
at
high
speed
and
might
soil
the
operators
dress.
The
wrench
coming
with
the
machine
serves
for
adjusting
the
boll bear
ing
and
the
pitman
rod.
17.
Power
Drive
In
order
to
make
full
use
of
the
speed
this
machine
is
capable
of
doing,
the
PFAFF
28,
in
most
cases,
is
equipped,
with a
‘
HP
electric
motor
which allows
for
speeds
up
to
1,600
stitches
per
minute,
depending
an
the
type
of
material
sewn.
Through
pressing
down
a
conventional
treadle,
the
sturdy wire
starter
controlling
the
speed
of
the
machine
is
cut
in.
Photo
18
16.
The
Treadle
Stand
15

The
electric
motor
calls
for
practically
no
maintenance. After
a longer
period
of
use,
check
if there
is sufficient
grease
in the
grease
bushings.
If
tilling
up is necessary,
use
only
the
special
motor
grease
whch we
supply
in
handy
tubes.
The
complete
treadle
assembly
is left on
the machine
when
it is
power
driven.
This
means that,
in
the case
of
a breakdown
of
the
power
supply,
the
machine
can
instantly
be
used for
foot drive
and
that a subsequent
conversion
to power
drive
of a
foot driven
machine
will
present
no diffi
culty.
18.
Cylinder
Bed
Extensions
Ia
facilitate
easy
handling
of the
work for
flat
sewing,
a wooden
exten
sion
(see
photo 19)
is available
at an extra
charge
for
all PEAFF
28
machines.
The dimensions
of the
cut-out in
the
polished
metal plate
are adapted
to the
different
sub-class
machines.
The
wocden
extension
is pushed
over
the cylinder
bed
from left
to right
so
that
the edges
of the
cut-out
in
the
plate
fit
snugly around
the
needle
plate.
Upon
special
request
and n
lieu of
the wooden
extension,
we
furnish
an
iron screw-on
plate,
size 8
-
8
which
is
screwed
directly
onto
the
cylinder
bed of
the machine see
photo
20).
Photo
19
Photo
20
16

19
Probable
Causes
of Sewing Troubles
Skipping
of
Stitches:
1.
Neede
inserted
incorrectly,
grooves
facing
the wrong way.
2.
Other
than
proper
needle system
used.
3.
Needle
bent.
4.
Needle
threaded
incorrectly.
5.
Needle inadequate
for
the thread
used.
Breaking
of
Thread:
1. For any
of the
causes
mentioned
above.
2.
Tensions
too
tight.
3.
lnferior.quolity
or
knotty thread
used.
4. Shuttle
race
insufficiently oiled.
5.
Thread
jamming in
shuttle race.
6. Edges
of needle
hole damaged
by
the needle.
Binding
of Machine:
1. Driving belt
too long.
2.
Driving
belt shortened
too much.
3.
Thread
jamming
in shuttle
race.
4. Mechanism
clogged.
5.
Machine not
oiled after
having
been cleaned
with
kerosene.
Needle
Breakage:
1.
Needle bent.
2.
Needle
too thin
or
thread
too thick.
3. Needle
thread tension
too
tight.
4.
Pushing or
pulling of
the work during the
sewing.
Uneven
Stitches:
1. Tensions
improperly
regulated.
2. Thread
used too
thick,
knotty
or
stiff.
3. Bobbin
thread
improperly
wound.
4. Shuttle
race
insufficiently oiled.
5.
Odd
thread
accumulated
between
tension
discs.