Rytan RY45 User manual

RY TAN, INC.
1648 W. 134th St.
Gardena, CA 90249U.S.A.
(800) • 447 • 9826
(310) • 212 • 6002 fax
INCORPORATED
RYTAN, INC. RESERVES THE RIGHT TO MAKE CHANGES WITHOUTNOTICE. PRICES MAY VARY FROM YOUR DISTRIBUTOR.
Model RY45
OPERATOR’S MANUAL
Rytan Model RY45 Semi-Automatic Key Duplicating Machine for
Cylinder Keys and Automotive Keys
Rytan Products Are Designed and Manufactured in the U.S.A.
READ AND UNDERSTAND THIS OPERATOR’S MANUAL AND BECOME
FAMILIAR WITH YOUR NEW MACHINE BEFORE YOU START CUTTING KEYS
RY101 Wire Brush
Kit is a Extra Cost
Accessory
www.rytan.com

RY45 OPERATIONS MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION............................................................................................................1
2. GETTING STARTED......................................................................................................1
3. SAFETY RULES..............................................................................................................2
4. MOUNTING THE MACHINE..........................................................................................3
5. CUTTING STANDARD KEYS........................................................................................3
6. CUTTING DEEP CUTS...................................................................................................3
7.
VISE JAWS..........................................................................................................................................4
8. TOP SHOULDER GAUGING..........................................................................................7
9. CLAMPING KEYS...........................................................................................................7
10.
TIP GAUGING........................................................................................................................................9
11.CUTTER SHAFT LOCK...................................................................................................10
12.
REMOVING/REPLACING CUTTER.................................................................................................11
13.DEPTH ADJUSTMENT.....................................................................................................11
14. SPACING ADJUSTMENT...............................................................................................13
15. KEY GAUGE ADJUSTMENT.........................................................................................15
16.CARRIAGE OVER TRAVEL ADJ............................................................................... ..16
17. MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................................17
18.TROUBLESHOOTING.....................................................................................................19
19. WHEN DO I REPLACE...................................................................................................22
20. CUTOMER INFORMATION...........................................................................................23
21. WARRANTY....................................................................................................................................25
1. INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing our American Made, Rytan Inc. Model RY45, universal key duplicating
machine. Your new keymachine has been designed and built with heavy-dutycomponents designed for
the most demanding shop and van use. As you become familiar with your new machine you will find a
new ease and confidence in key cutting. Discover the smooth and natural interaction between machine
you willprofitgreatlyfromthisqualitybuiltversatile key machine.
Use yourmachine tocutstandard cylinderkeysandU.S.and Foreignautomobilekeys.Install an
optional RY47Flat Slotter Kit and duplicate Flat Safe Deposit Keys.
2. GETTING STARTED
Please take time now to ready and understand this manual thoroughly before you start cutting keys.
machine. Please feel to contact us if y ou have any questions or go to Rytan.com.
1

SAFETY FIRST
Do not attempt to operate this machine until you have read thoroughly and understand completely all
instructions, rules, etc. contained in this manual. Failure to comply can result in accidents involving
fire, electric shock, or serious personal injury.
3. SAFETY RULES
A. Know your machine. Read the owner's manual carefully. Learn its applications and
limitations as well as specific operational hazards peculiar to this machine.
B. Guard against electrical shock by preventing body contact with grounded surfaces.
Examples: Pipes and metal work tops.
C. Keep guards in place at all times.
D. Keep your work area clean. Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents.
E. Avoid dangerous environments. Don't use this machine in damp or wet locations. Keep
your work area well lit.
F. Keep Children away. All visitors should be kept a safe distance from the work area. Do
not let visitors contact the machine or power cord.
G. Do not force the machine. It will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it was
designed. Always maintain a sharp cutter wheel on the machine.
H. Use the machine for what it was designed. Don't use the machine for anything but the
key blanks for which it was intended.
I. Wear proper apparel. For example: No loose clothing or jewelry to get caught in moving
parts. Operators without properly restrained long hair MUST NOT operate any type of
machinery, including key machines. Long hair can get caught in moving (rotating)
machinery parts.
J. Use Safety glasses. Flying chips, improperly secured key blanks and broken cutter wheel
teeth can injure the eye if not properly protected.
K. Don't abuse cord. Never yank cord to disconnect from receptacle. Keep cord from heat,
oil and sharp edges. Never remove the ground connection from the plug. If you use a
two wire adapter be sure to properly connect the ground wire. NEVER CUT OFF THE
GROUND TERMINAL FROM THE MACHINE'S POWER PLUG!
L. Secure keys properly in vises. Don't hold key head for support when cutting. If it
doesn't clamp properly, don't try to cut it!
M. Maintain a sharp cutter wheel. A dull cutter wheel is not only inefficient but dangerous.
A dull cutter wheel can produce excessive cutting force on a key blank and exceed the
machine's vise jaws clamping force to a point where the key blank could be ripped out of
the machine.
N. Disconnect machine. When not in use, during servicing, or when changing cutter wheel
and accessory brush always disconnect the machine from its electrical power source.
O. Remove servicing wrenches. Remove all service tools from the machine before turning it
on.
P. Always turn off machine. After cutting a key, turn off the machine before removing a cut
key and clamping another fresh blank.
Q. Always lock carriage back. After cutting a key, turn off the machine and lock the
carriage back to prevent accident or injury.
R. Outdoor use. When machine is used outdoors, use only extension cords suitable for
outdoors and that have a built-in third wire and ground terminal. NEVER CUT OFF THE
GROUND TERMINAL FROM THE MACHINE'S POWER PLUG!
S. Keep hands away from cutter and key blank. Keep hands away from rotating cutter. Do
not reach underneath or around cutter or key blank when cutter is rotating.
T. Never use machine in an explosive atmosphere. For example, if your machine is in a
service van with a fuel leak or spill, switching on the machine could ignite the fumes.
NOTE: A FLAMMABLE SOLVENT SPILL IN YOUR SHOP OR VAN IS
EQUALLY DANGEROUS!
2

U. Inspect machine cord periodically. If damaged, repair at once.
V. Keep hands, dry, clean and free from oil and grease.
W. Stay alert. Watch what you are doing and use common sense. Do not operate machine
when you are tired.
X. Do not use machine if switch does not turn the machine ON or OFF.
Y. Drugs, Alcohol, Medication. Do not operate machine while under the influence of drugs,
alcohol, or medication.
Z. The operation of any key machine can result in foreign objects being thrown into the
eyes, which can result insevere eye damage. Always wear safety glasses or eye shields
before commencing key machine operation. We recommend wide vision safety mask for
use over spectacles or standard safety glasses.
4. MOUNTING THE MACHINE
Mounting the machine. Drill two oversized ½” holes in your bench top to mount your
machine. Use ½”-13 bolts from your local hardware store. Carefully turn the machine up-
side-down and measure the spacing of the two tapped holes on the bottom of your machine
(be careful not to set the machine on the power switch). Turn the machine right-side-up
and place the machine where you want it on your work bench. Mark the bench and drill
your holes.
5. CUTTING STANDARD KEYS
A) Most key clamping requirements use the standard top jaw configuration. The top
jaw can be shimmed with .040" drill rod (included)—to make deeper cuts in small
keys. Narrow groove style top and bottom vise jaws are possible by reversing the
entire carriage.
B) Keys are always gauged with the full-function flip-up key gauges. We do not
recommend bottom shoulder gauging because key blank manufacturers do not
always maintain a reliable correlation between bottom and top shoulder positions on
the key blanks they make.
C) Always remember to flip away your key gauges before cutting a key.
D) Always cut keys from Bow to Tip. NEVER MAKE YOUR FIRST CUT
FROM TIP-TO-BOW.
The RY45 is specifically designed to cut most cylinder keys and U.S. and Foreign
automotive keys. The key will be cut properly starting at the Bow and ending at the
Tip of the key. It is O.K. to make a "clean-up" cut back to the bow of the key ONLY
after the key has already been cut.
NOTE: If an excessive amount of key blank material is removed on the clean-up cut (second cut) your cutter
may need replacing or sharpening.
6. CUTTING DEEP CUTS IN SMALL KEYS
A) Most key clamping requirements use the standard top jaw configuration. If you
are making deep cuts in small keys you may have to use .040" drill rod shims in
the vises. You must use them in both left and right vise jaws.
Make sure you only open the vise jaws just enough to slide the key in—
opening too wide may allow the key to sit on top of the shim. See illustration
figure 1.
3

VISE JAW WITH .040" SHIM STANDARD JAW WILL
TO ENABLE DEEP CUTS TO CLAMP MAXIMUM
BE MADE IN KEY AMOUNT OF KEY
Figure 1
CUTTING KEYS
1) Keys are always top shoulder gauged with the full-function key gauges.
Never attempt to bottom shoulder gauge a key against the vise jaws.
2) Always remember to flip back your key gauges before cutting a key.
Switch ON yourmachine and gently raise the carriage andposition it so the
stylus is right over the key. Continue to ease up on the carriage and
manipulate the carriage to make a smooth gentle cut down the left edge of
the "V" cut in the key and then gently continue across the rest of the key to
the tip cutting all cuts on the key.
3) You may want to reverse the carriage and make a "clean-up" cut back to the
bowofthekey.
4) Turn OFF your machine.
CUTTING STEEL KEYS IS NOT RECOMMENDED
Cutting steel keys will accelerate cutter wear. Some steel keys will ruin your cutter wheel with
just one pass.
NOTE: Some automotive presentation keys are made of Hardened Steel and can ruin the cutter
wheel instantly! Don't befooled by the decorative Gold, Brass or Silver-plating on these keys.
Suggestion: Keep a small magnet near your key machine to identify steel keys. Before cutting a steel key
try filing a small groove where one of the deeper cuts will be—if the key won't file easily it won't cut any
better in your key machine and will mostly likely ruin your cutter!
7. VISE JAWS
Choosing the correct vise jaws. For most key cutting work the vise jaws can remain inthe standard
configuration. In the standard configuration the entire "throat" of the bottomand top jaws is used.
Measuring from the front faces of the top and bottomvise jaws and into the throat of the jaws—you will
measure . 142". This throat dimension of .142"is how much of the key is consumed by the vise jaws when
the key is clamped. Most keys are rarely cut deeper than .142" from the back edge of the keyblade.
4

Some padlock keys and some General Motors keys have cuts deeper than .142" from the back edge of
the key blade. For these keys you have to shim the vise jaws to clamp the keys properly.
Use the pair of round-drill rod shims that came with your machine. Place a shim in each vise jaw
against the back edge and lay the key in front of.the shim—effectively pushing the key out of the vise
jaws and clamping on the remaining .102" of the key. See figure 2 below.
By opening the vise jaws enough to slide the key in you will be making the key lay right in front of the
drill rod shim in the vise jaw—effectively pushing the key out of the vise jaws and clamping on the
remaining .102" of the key.
VISE JAW WITH .040" SHIM
TO ENABLE DEEP CUT TO
BE MADE IN KEY. KEY IS
CLAMPED ON .102" OF ITS
BLADE.
STANDARD JAW WILL
CLAMP MAXIMUM
AMOUNT OF KEY. KEY
IS CLAMPED ON. 142"
OF Its BLADE.
FIGURE 2
TOP VISE JAW REPLACEMENT
Either top vise jaw may be replaced at any time—you do not have to buy top vise jaws in pairs.
Inspect your top vise jaws for uneven clamping and referencing surfaces. Replace when worn.
Accelerated wear occurs when you clamp double-sided steel keys such as Volks Wagon. Clamping
pre 1984-1/2 Ford double-sided keys too far to the right into the vise jaws causes wear to the left edges
of both the top and bottom vise jaws. The damage is due to the "wedged" shaped milling of these keys
as you approach the bow of the key.
Unscrew the painted key clamp knob and remove the knob and its threaded shaft and the three piece radial
thrust bearing. Reinstall a new vise jaw assembly. NOTE: The top vise jaw and plunger are preassembled
at the factory and are sold as an assembly. See figure 3
Figure 3
5

BOTTOM VISE JAW REPLACEMENT
Two bottom vise jaws are bolted to the carriage. One jaw is designed for standard configuration key
clamping with .142" throat (key clamping) and the other is a narrow style for clamping keys in their
groovings (1/16" grip).
Bottom vise jaws can be replaced one at a time—there is no need to replace them as matched sets. Use
your 9/64" Alien Hex Wrench to remove the #8-32 Socket Head Cap Screw securing the bottom vise
jaw to the carriage. See figure 4.
REVERSING THE CARRIAGE
The carriage is reversed on your RY45 key machine to switch from standard vise jaw configuration to
narrow groove key clamping configuration. To reverse the carriage unscrew the red knurled knob and
screw assembly located near the bottom front of the carriage. Inspect the carriage shaft and carriage
and wipe off any key cuttings that might affect clamping the carriage back onto the carriage shaft.
Reinstall the Red Knurled Knob and screw assembly back onto the carriage and carriage shaft. See
figure 5.
Figure 4
STANDARD VISE JAW
CONFIGURATION
Figure 5
NARROW VISE JAWS
FOR KEY GROOVINGS
RED KNURLED KNOB AND
SCREW ASSEMBLY
6

8. TOP SHOULDER GAUGING
Figure 6
Standard cylinder keys should always be Top Shoulder Gauged. Use the machine's full-function flip-down
key gauges. We do not recommend bottom shoulder gauging because key blank manufacturers do not
always maintain a reliable correlation between bottom and top shoulder positions on the key blanksthey
make.
Always remember to flip UP your key gauges before cutting a key. See figure 6.
9. CLAMPING KEYS
Open the vise jaws only wide enough to slide the key in. With the key in all the way into the "throat" of
the vise jaws—put your index finger against the key blade as shown in figure 7 below and with moderate
force against the key into the vise jaw gently slide the key left and right a few times (about 1/8" will do) to
"seat" the key into the vise jaws. With the bottom shoulder of the standard cylinder key about 1/32" away
from the left edge of the vise jaws CLAMP the key with the key clamp now-still pressing against the
blade of the key with your finger as you tighten the key clamp knob.
We recommend that you clamp the blank in the right vise jaw first, see figure 7—then flip up the full-
function key gauges and clamp the customer (original) key in the left vise jaw (see figure 8) using your
finger—following the same procedure outlined directly above.
CLAMPING KEYS IN RIGHT VISE JAW
LEAVE ABOUT 1/32"
GAP BETWEEN
BOTTOM SHOULDER
OF KEY AND LEFT
EDGE OF VISE JAW
RIGHT VISE JAW
Leave about 1/32" Gap
between bottom shoulder
of key and left edge of
vise
j
aw.
Figure 7
7

CLAMPING KEYS IN LEFT VISE JAW
Figure 8
When both keys have been properly gauged and clamped in the vise jaws REMEMBER to flip UP the
full-function key gauges before attempting to cut the key.
CLAMPING (Ford double-sided keys)
Keys such as Ford double-sided ignition and door do not have a top shoulder to gauge from.
Open the vise jaws ONLY enough to slide in the thinnest part of the key. Slide in the key blank and allow
the full thickness "ridge" of the key to contact the face of the vise jaw.
Clamp the key into the vise jaws so that its cuts are approximately centered in the vise jaws.
Ignition key "ridge" will contact the face of the TOP vise jaw. See figure 10. Door and truck
key "ridge" will contact the face of the BOTTOM vise jaw. See figure 9. See figure 9 for proper
insertion of keys into vise jaws.
8
LEFT VISE JAW
STANDARD TOP JAW
CONFIGURATION
NOTE: BECAUSE
KEY RIDGE LOCATES
AGAINST FACE OF
TOP JAW WHEN
CLAMPING IGNITION
KEY YOU MUST
CHECK THE
ALIGNMENT OF THE
TOP VISE JAW TO
THE BOTTOM JAW.
LOOSEN KNURLED
KNOB AND PRESS
TOP JAW WITH
YOUR FINGER
AGAINST BOTTOM
JAWS VERTICAL
STEP AND
RETIGHTENTHE
KNURLED KNOB.
ALIGN TOP JAW
TO BOTTOM JAW
DOOR KEY
Rid
ge o
f
k
ey
must contact
face of bottom
vise jaw. Open
vise jaws ONLY
enough to allow
thinnest section
of key blade to
slide m.
STANDARD TOP JAW
CONFIGURATION
Figure 9

Figure 10
10. TIP GAUGING (Ford double-sided keys)
Operate the full-function key gauges by rotating the key gauge shaft toward you—then push to the
right on the key gauge shaft while continuing to rotate the key gauge until the key gauge aligns itself
with the tip of the key. See figure 11.
Figure 11
BEST and FALCON (behind the tip) KEY GAUGING
These keys must be gauged from a "tip" location that is behind the actual tip of the key (see figure
12). Position the key in the vise so that the "tip" edge of the key is about 1/32" (or less) from the right
edge of the vise jaws. Operate the full-function key gauges by rotating the key gauge shaft toward
you—then push to the right on the key gauge shaft while continuing to rotate the key gauge shaft until
the key gauge slides past the actual tip of the key. Slowly release the key gauge shaft and allow the
key gauge to rest on the "tip" location that is behind the actual tip of the key (see figure 12)
Rid
ge o
f
k
ey
must contact
face of lop vise
jaw. Open vise
jaws ONLY
enough to allow
thinnest section
of key blade to
slide in.
IGNITION KEY
9

Figure 12
SWITCH"ON"YOURMACHINE
The power switch is located at the top, right rear of the machine—near themotor. See figure 13.
To switch ON push the switch to the rear.
To switch OFF pull the switch forward.
To remove the cutter you must lock the cutter and cutter shaft in position before using a wrench to remove the
cutter. See figure 13.
Press DOWN firmly on the cutter shaft lock. See figure 13. Whileholding the lever down—rotate the cutter
by hand until the cutter shaft lock "clicks" into position. When turning the cutter by hand there is only ONE
locking position to be found. Once the cutter shaft lock isfully depressed—Hold it There. You may now
proceed with removing the cutter shaft lock nut and the cutter.
PLEASE...DON'TFORGETto pull UP on the cutter shaft lock when you are finished reinstalling the cutter
wheel. Pulling UP on the cutter shaft lock releases the cutter and cutter shaft from the lockedposition. Failure
to unlock the cutter when attempting to cut a key may result in no rotation of the cutter.
10
POWER SWITCH
Figure13
11. CUTTERSHAFT LOC
K

Please note however—the motor may be powerful enough to slip the belt and permanently damage it by
wearing a flat spot on the belt.
12. REMOVING THE CUTTER
The cutter wheel is secured tothe cutter shaft with a LEFT-HAND NUT. See figure 14. You must turn the
nut to the RIGHT (facing the cutter wheel) to remove it.
Remember to LOCK the cutter shaft before removing the cutter wheel (see figure 13).
Use a 1" open-end or hex wrench to remove the Left-Hand Nut.
Figure 14
REPLACING THE CUTTER
Before you replace the cutter—clean off any cuttings from the cutter shaft with a clean rag. Apply a small
amount of white grease to the cutter shaft face, shank and threads before installing the cutter wheel and Left-
Hand Nut.
DON'T OVER TIGHTEN the cutter wheel nut-The Left-Hand Nut is self locking as you use it. Over
tightening the cutter wheel nut may make it harder to remove later and may result in damaging the cutter shaft
lock or cutter shaft pulley.
PLEASE...DON'T FORGET to pull UP on the cutter shaft lock when you are finished reinstalling the cutter
wheel. Pulling UP on the cutter shaft lock releases the cutter and cutter shaft from the lockedposition. Failure
to unlock the cutter when attempting to cut a key will result in no rotation of the cutter. Please note
however—the motor may be powerful enough to slip the belt and permanently damage it by wearing a flat
spot on the belt.
13. DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
Depth is adjusted at the back side of thestylus. To adjust the depth you will need:
• Piece of Writing Paper cut approximately1" X 4"
• Two identical key blanks-measure blades width with micrometer or dialcalipers and select
two that match.
Before you begin please make sure that both top vise jaws are in the standard configuration.
11

Figure 15
Depth is adjusted by moving the stylus forward or backward by means of a knurled adjustment knob
located at the back of the stylus. The adjustment is secured by the "T-turn" knob located on the top of the
stylus holder.
To begin the adjustment you must loosen the "T-turn" knob. Use your hand to turn the knurled thumb— turn
the adjustment knob about 1 full turn—viewed from the front of the machine turn the knob to your LEFT. See
figure 15.
NOTE: The stylus is spring loaded and you must push against the tip of the stylus to compress the spring.
Secure the two matched key blanks—one in each vise jaw. See figure 15. PLEASE NOTE: Clamp the keys
into the vise jaws with about 1/32" gap between the bottom shoulder of the key and the left-side edge of the vise
jaws. DO NOT bottom shoulder the keys into the vises—there may be a small radius in the corner of the key
blank's blade and bottomof the shoulder area.
Clamping in this area may ANGLE the key blank in the vise and throw off your adjustment.
With the keys clamped in the vises and with the stylus adjusted forward about 1 turn—carefully bring up the
carriage and position it so the key in the left vise jaw LIGHTLY contacts the stylus about in the middle of the
key blank's blade. Now push more firmly against the carriage and allow the left hand key to compress the
stylus all the way back. Hold the carriage in this position during the adjustment process.
Observe that the cutter wheel misses the key blank in the right vise by carefully turning the cutter
BACKWARDS by hand—the cutter teeth should miss the blade. The reason for turning the cutter backwards
is to prevent any cutter teeth from removing material off the key blank's blade before you make your
adjustments. Turning the cutter backwards will bump the key blank without cutting it—if the stylus was not
adjusted forward enough to miss the key blank.
Upon verifying that the cutter wheel misses the keyblank—you may switch ON yourkey machine.
Take the 1" x 4" piece of writing paper you made earlier and hold one end of it between the spinning cutter
Wheel and the bade of he key blank.
Use your hand to slowly and carefully back off on the knurled adjustment knob—at the same time we
recommend that you slowly move the 1" x 4" piece of paper from side to side along the blade of the key blank
to assist you in detecting when the cutter wheel's teeth first contact the paper. When the cutter wheel first
contacts the paper the paper will be shaved almost without any sound—you must back off the stylus very slowly
for this to work.
Once you have the cutter wheel touching the paper you may slow down the procedure to very small
increments. Stop when the piece of paper is cut through to the last few fibers. You have accurately
adjusted the depth of cut on your key machine.
12
T-TURN STYLUS LOC
K

SPACING ADJUSTMENT
Never adjust the spacing without first adjusting DEPTH. If the depth adjustment is not right—spacing will not
be right.
Spacing is adjusted by moving the cutter wheel and its cutter shaft assembly left or right. The cutter shaft
assembly is secured to the machines main housing byone #10-32 Alien Socket Head Cap Screws. See figure
16. To adjust spacing you will need:
• 5/32" Alien Hex Wrench
• Two identical Key Blanks
• Small Plastic Mallet
Before you begin please make sure that both top vise jaws are in the standard configuration.
Figure 16
Stack the two identical key blanks one on top of the other and clamp them in the right hand vise jaw. Be
sure to top shoulder gauge them with the machine's full-function key gauges—leave the 1/32" gap between
the bottom shoulder of the keys and the left-side edge of the vise jaws. DO NOT bottom shoulder the keys
into the vise—there may be a small radius in the corner of the key blank's blade and bottom shoulder area.
Clamping in this area may ANGLE the key blank in the vise and throw off your adjustment.
There should be NO key blank in the left vise jaw for this part of the procedure.
DO NOT FORGET to flip up your key gauges.
Switch ON the key machine and carefully release the carriage and position it so the cutter wheel will make
a cut in about the middle of the blade of the key blanks. Hold the machine's carriage steady and carefully
make a straight "V" cut into the two-piece key blank stack about 1/8" deep—it is important to do this
operation without moving the carriage sideways by the slightest amount.
Pull the carriage back straight and switch OFF the key machine.
Remove the two key blanks fromthe right vise jaw—Do Not Mix Them Up.
Reinstall the TOP key blank in the right vise jaw with about 1/32" gap between the bottom shoulder of the
key and the left-edge of the vise jaw.
13
14.
#10-32 SCREW-

Install the BOTTOM key blank in the left vise jaw—flip down the machines full-function key gauges and
carefully top shoulder gauge the left key to the key in the right-hand vise jaw.
Carefully release the carriage and align the left-hand key blanks "V" cut with the machines stylus—the "V"
cut in the key blank in the right-hand vise jaw should "fall" into place around the "V" profile of the cutter
wheel.
Use your hand to carefully turn the cutter wheel BACKWARDS to verity that the cutter wheels teeth do
not touch the "V" cut in the key blank.
Verify that the stylus is completely seated in the "V" cut in the left-hand key blank. If it is and the cutter
wheel will not turn Backwards by hand or the cutter wheel teeth "tick" the "V" cut in the right-hand key
blank—then spacing needs to be adjusted. See figure 17.
Figure 17
Loosen the #10-32 screw securing the cutter shaft assembly in place using your 5/32" Alien hex wrench—
retighten the screw with LIGHT pressure. You want just enough retightening pressure on the screw to
keep the cutter shaft assembly in place so you can't move it with your hand—but you can move it with
gentle to moderate tapping with your small plastic mallet. See figure 18.
Turn the cutter BACKWARDS with your hand to observe which way you must move the cutter. Use your
small plastic mallet to "nudge" the cutter shaft assembly in the direction you want to go. It is a good idea to
verify the cutter position in the "V" cut in the key after every "tap" of the small plastic mallet. Verify your
results by turning the cutter Backwards with your hand. Also verify that the stylus is properly seated in the
"V" cut in the left-hand key. Adjust the position of the carriage as required to keep the stylus seated in the
"V" cut in the key.
Continue with this procedure until you are satisfied with the position of the cutter. Once you are satisfied
you may wish to turn ON your key machine and observe the spinning cutter wheel in the "V" cut in the key.
This test must only be done AFTER you have turned the cutter Backwards by hand and verify that no
cutter wheel teeth will contact either side of the "V" cut. With the machine running you may want to
lightly "nudge" the spinning cutter a little more before retightening the #10-32 screw.
SWITCH OFF THE KEY MACHINE.Retighten the #10-32 Screw.
14

KEY GAUGE ADJUSTMENT
Stack two identical key blanks one on top of the other and clamp themin the right-hand vise jaw. Be sure
to BOTTOM SHOULDER GAUGE them. DO NOT use the machine's full-function key gauges.
There should be NO key blank in the left vise jaw for this part of the procedure.
Switch ON the key machine and carefully position the carriage so the cutter wheel will make a cut in about the
middle of the blade of the key blanks. Hold the machine's carriage steady and carefully make a straight "V" cut
into the two-piece key blank stack—go all the way to the carriage's built-in over-travel stopand move the
machine's carriage to the LEFT making a wide cut slightly more than Vi" wide. See figure 19.
Pull the carriage back and switch OFF the key machine.
Remove the two key blanks from the right-hand vise jaw.
Reinstall one key blank in the Right vise jaw—use BOTTOM SHOULDER GAUGING. DO NOT use the
machine's full-function key gauges.
Install the other blank in the Left vise jaw—use BOTTOM SHOULDER GAUGING. DO NOT use the
machine's full-function key gauges.
NOW flip down the machine's full-function key gauges and place themin the wide grooves cut in the keys.
Adjust the key gauges as necessary by loosening the key gauge's fastening screws—retighten the screws. The
key gauges now match the spacing of the vise jaws.
15
V
IEW SHOWN WITHOUT
CUTTER GUARD FOR
CLARITY.
USE YOUR SMALL
RUSTIC MALLET
TO MOVE THE
LOOSEN CUTTER TO THE
SCREW LEFT.
TO MOVE THE
CUTTER TO THE
RIGHT.
Figure 18
15.

Figure 19
CARRIAGE OVERTRAVEL DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
Your key machine is equipped with a depth overtravel device. Its adjustment is important. The overtravel
device prevents the cutter wheel from cutting into the vise jaws when there are no keys clamped in the machine.
Setting the depth overtraveldevice too high will preventdeep cuts from being made—theywill not get cut all
the way down intothe key blank. To adjust the depth overtravelyou will need:
• Slot head screwdriver
• 7/16" Wrench
• Three pieces of writing paper—cut to approximately 1" x 4" each.
Close both vise jaws without keys in them. Position the carriage sothe stylus and cutter wheel are in about
the middle of the vise jaws—hold the carriage up against the machine during the following procedure.
Loosen the 7/16" Hex Jam Nut located at the back of the machine's main housing. See figure 20.
Turn back the 1/4"-20 slotted screw stud with your screwdriver. About 1 turn to the right as viewed
from the front of the machine.Observe that the stylus is touching theface of the closed vise jaw.
Gently turn the slotted screw stud with your screwdriver to the left as viewed from the front of the
machine and stop when you feel the stud contact thekey machine's carriage—remember to be holding the
carriage up during this procedure. With the carriage overtravel just touching the carriage—and with the
carriage's vise jaws contacting the stylus continue turning the slotted screw stud an additional %turn.
The thread pitch is 20 which is approximately 12 thousandths of an inch per % turn. Tighten the 7/16"
Hex Jam Nut on the slotted screw stud—use moderate tightness.
After tightening the 7/16" nut-check the gap between the stylus and the face of the closed vise jaws.
Use three pieces of the 1" x 4" writing paper you made earlier. They equal a combined thickness of
about 9 thousandths of an inch. Readjust if necessary.
IMPORTANT: Carriage overtravel works only when adjusted properly. The following things can
happen if the adjustment is not done properly:
• If adjusted to lowyour cutter wheel may cut into the right-hand vise jaw.
• If adjusted to high your cutter wheel may notcut deep enough when cutting deep cuts in keys.
See figure 20.
16
16.

Figure 20
17. MAINTENANCE
Your machine is time proven with good design engineering and modern manufacturing practices.
You can service virtually anything on your machine yourself. There are no special tools, fixtures or
alignment jigs required to install the parts used in this key machine. Because Rytan manufactures the
machines in-house you are assured a supply of new replacement parts and updates for as long as
YOU want us to make the machines.
Keep your machine clean and lubricated and it will remain a productive asset to your business for a very long
time.
Lubrication
You do not need to lubricate the motor or the cutter shaft bearings - these ball bearing assemblies are
sealed and lubricated for their lifetime.
Lubricate your machine as often as you like. Use number 30 non-detergent motor oil. Apply oil with
a brush to all the black oxide process steel surfaces. After applying the oil let it stand overnight and
wipe the oiled parts dry the next day with a clean rag or soft paper towel. WARNING: Do not turn
the machipe over and set it on the Power Switch.
Lubricate the vise jaw plungers inside the carriage—remove the key clamp knobs and top vise jaws.
Squirt some number 30 motor oil in the large hole and reassemble.
DO NOT LUBRICATE YOUR MACHINE WITH LPS-1 or WD-40 in place of number 30 motor
oil. You may use LPS-1 or WD-40 as a rust preventative in addition to the number 30 motor oil. If
you only use LPS-1 or WD-40 as your machine's lubricant you will eventually damage the machine.
These "lubricants" act more like solvents than lubricants—they work partially as a solvent that
extracts already existing oils from bearings and other parts and redistributes the existing oil along the
surfaces that need oil. Eventually you will exhaust all oil reserves in the machine's parts and the
machine will be operating as a dry machine.
DO NOT allow any oil or grease to get on the machine's drive belt or pulleys. When handling these
parts be sure your hands are clean and free of any lubricants.
17
SLOTTED SCREW STUD.
CARRIAGE OVERTRAVEL-
DEPTH ADJ.
7/16' HEX JAM NUT

DRIVE BELT
Your machine's belt tension is maintained by means of moving the motor. To adjust the belt tension-use
your 7/16" wrench and your 3/16" Alien HexWrench to loosen the 4 cap screws and hex nuts on the
motor. Push themotor hard against the belt and retighten the 4screws. See figure 21.
Figure21
KEY MACHINE ACCURACY
Generation Cutting
Generation cutting is a process where the key machine operator takes a fresh cut key and duplicates
another key offof it, then takes that key and duplicates another form it, and so on. The idea is to cutas
many "generations" as possible and stillhave a working key. This is interpreted as a "test" ofthe
quality of the key machine.
What key machine operators often forget is if the depth adjustment is off by as little as 1-1/2 thousandths
of an inch (.0015) they will accumulate up to 15 thousandths of an inch (.015) in only 10 generations. In as
little as five generations thekey probably won't work in the lock.
In reality, generation cutting is a representation of the entire key cuttingprocess (key machine, operator,
and adjustments) and the results you get are either good or badkeys—you don't learn the reason why you
are getting good or bad results. Your results do not indicate the quality of the key machine, the quality of
the operator, or the quality of the adjustments made to the machine. All the questionsremain unanswered.
There is enly one way to get good results on a consistent basis. Buy a quality-built heavy-duty key
machine; don't abuse it, andkeep it well maintained and adjusted at all times. Keep an eye on cutter
sharpness, the integrity of the stylus, the fit of the carriage shaft to its bearings, the fit of the vise jaws, the
fit of the key gauge shaft to the carriage, and the fitof the cutter shaft to the bearings. Any situations in
these areas will decrease the performance of the machine. When parts start to wear— replacethem.
In addition to a quality machine and its maintenance you need an accurate measuring tool such as a dial
caliper or key micrometer (preferable mechanical digital).
Measuring True Key Machine Accuracy
The proper way to measure key machine accuracy is to take the key you are going to duplicate from and
measure it. Measure each cut from the back edge of the blade of the key blank. Measure each cut several
times and record their average. After documenting the key, make a duplicateof it and measure each cut
several times and record theiraverage. Compare the results. There is really no substitute for this
procedure if you want to make accurate duplicate keys. Generation cutting will not give you meaningful
results like this procedure does.
18
MOTOR MOUNTING SCREWS

18. TROUBLESHOOTING
Machine Always Needs Adjustment
There are several things that can cause this situation.
1. Cutter wheel may be dull. This can cause the key to try to "float" and not cut deep enough in
the deepest cuts if you don't push hard enough against the carriage. Replace or resharpen the
cutter (see replacing the cutter above).
2. Pushing harder and harder on the carriage to cut keys also puts more pressure on the stylus as
it passes across the key being duplicated. This heavy "scraping" action will remove more and
more material off the original key being duplicated. Heavy cutting pressure also will wear out
the stylus faster.
3. Stylus may be worn. Check it carefully, if there is a groove worn in the stylus you may get
deep and shallow cuts on different brands of keys. For example when cutting Ford double
sided keys the ignition key will be cut high on the stylus and the door key will be cut low on
the stylus—Schlage C keys are cut more in the middle of the stylus. This may seem like an
extreme case—but it happens every day. Replace the stylus.
4. Carriage shaft and bearings are worn. Check for excess "wobble". Replace the carriage shaft
and bronze oilite bearings.
5. Cutter shaft bearings are worn. Check for any "wobble" or in-out play. Replace the cutter
shaft assembly.
6. One key cuts fine and the next doesn't. You adjust and readjust all the time. The problem is
the carriage depth overtravel is set to high. This results in the machine's inability to cut the
deepest cuts on a key. This symptom is more common than you think. Fix the problem by
readjusting the Carriage Overtravel Depth Adjustment (see carriage overtravel adjustment
above).
7. Again. One key cuts fine and the next doesn't. This time it may be the key gauges.
Sometimes key machine operators don't flip back the full-function key gauges all the way
and the left-hand key gauge CRASHES into the stylus holder and knocks the key gauges out
of position. The key they're cutting is O.K. but the next key they duplicate won't work in the
lock. If you ever CRASH the left-hand key gauge into the stylus holder—fix the key gauges
right away. See Key Gauge Adjustment above.
8. Keys don't always work in the lock when gauged off of the bottom shoulder stop. This is a
common problem caused by the key blank manufacturers. In recent years many of the key
blank manufacturers have stopped paying attention to the bottom shoulder stop on most keys
since they are seldom used for anything anymore. We've seen Schlage C key blanks with
variations of up to 15 thousandths of an inch (.015") between top and bottom shoulder
positions—between keys taken from the same box. It happens more often than you think.
The solution? DON'T bottom shoulder gauge your keys anymore.
Cutter Stalls Out
There are six possible causes for this problem.
1. You are cutting keys from Tip-to-Bow. This one can fool you if you're not careful. Cutting
keys from tip to bow will work when you cut only shallow keys—sometimes a shop can cut
keys all day long and never hit upon a key with a deep cut. You think everything is O.K.
when all of a sudden your cutter stops dead halfway along the key. The problem? The deep
cut put the cutter into the key past the cutter tooth area on the left side of the cutter—you just
reinvented the disk brake! SOLUTION—ALWAYS CUT FROM BOW-TO-TIP.
2. Oil on the belt and pulleys. Clean the pulleys with safety solvent and install a new drive belt.
3. Left-hand nut securing the cutter wheel isn't tight.
4. Belt tension needs to be increase and/or replaced the drive belt.
19