Saltfire ST-X4 Tall User manual

Saltfire ST-X4 INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
INTRODUCTION
SAFETY
Safety is the most important consideration when using and installing your stove. If not installed and used correctly, a house
fire could result. Installation must comply with relevant national and local Building Regulations and fire safety standards.
IN THE EVENT OF CHIMNEY FIRE, EVACUATE THE PROPERTY AND CALL THE EMERGENCY SERVICES.
Your stove will be heavy and care needs to be taken when lifting - 2 people will normally be required to lift.
UNPACKING
Your stove will have several of its components stored inside the stove itself for transportation.
Do NOT drag the stove on its legs –it must be carefully lifted into place.
Inside you will find a glove which must be used when opening the door or when adjusting air vents when the fire is hot.
INSTALLATION
Installation of your stove must comply with relevant local and national Building Regulations and fire safety standards.
TECHNICAL
Model; “Saltfire ST-X4”
Nominal heat output –4.1kW
Normal range 2 - 5kW
Gross Weight of Stove (inclusive of packaging) - 72 kg.
Net Weight of Stove - 70 kg.
Max Height - 489 mm
Max Width - 395 mm
Max Depth - 330 mm
Flue Diameter - 125mm (5”)
Mean flue gas temperature directly downstream of the flue spigot - 265 degrees C. (with closed doors).
Flue gas mass flow –3.4g/s
Mean CO emission (at 13% Oxygen) –0.20%
Net Energy Efficiency 79.7%
The stove must not be installed within the specified minimum distances to combustible materials: A gap of at least 400mm
needs to left between the stove and any combustible materials at the sides and 500mm to the rear. Adjacent walls should be of
non-combustible materials and construction, preferably masonry or brickwork.
Your stove will require a constant air supply, and should not be used at the same time and in the same room/space as
extractor fans or any device which may draw air supply away from the stove.

The stove should be installed on a level floor with adequate load bearing capacity.
The stove needs to stand on a hearth of non-combustible materials not less than 12mm thick conforming to Building
Regulations.
NOT suitable for installation in a shared flue system.
If installed in a standard type chimney, a register plate needs to be fitted inside the chimney.
When purchasing flue pipe, 5” diameter is required. The flue pipe must be fitted INSIDE the flue spigot, and sealed with a
generous amount of Fire Cement. If then connecting to a flue liner or twinwall flue system it must be 5” diameter or greater.
Access should be provided for cleaning the flue gas connector and chimney flue to ensure that the passageways for exhaust
gases remain free from obstruction.
We recommend that you have a qualified fitter install your stove. The British recognised standard for solid fuel installations
is HETAS. You can find a HETAS qualified installer in your area by going to the HETAS website –www.hetas.co.uk.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
The Clean Air Act 1993 and Smoke Control Areas
Under the Clean Air Act local authorities may declare the whole or part of the district of the authority to be a
smoke control area. It is an offence to emit smoke from a chimney of a building, from a furnace or from any fixed
boiler if located in a designated smoke control area. It is also an offence to acquire an "unauthorised fuel" for use
within a smoke control area unless it is used in an "exempt" appliance ("exempted" from the controls which
generally apply in the smoke control area).
In England appliances are exempted by publication on a list by the Secretary of State in accordance with changes
made to sections 20 and 21 of the Clean Air Act 1993 by section 15 of the Deregulation Act 2015. Similarly in
Scotland appliances are exempted by publication on a list by Scottish Ministers under section 50 of the Regulatory
Reform (Scotland) Act 2014.
In Wales and Northern Ireland these are authorised by regulations made by Welsh Ministers and by the
Department of the Environment respectively.
Further information on the requirements of the Clean Air Act can be found here:
https://www.gov.uk/smoke-control-area-rules
Your local authority is responsible for implementing the Clean Air Act 1993 including designation and supervision
of smoke control areas and you can contact them for details of Clean Air Act requirements”
“The Saltfire ST-X4 has been recommended as suitable for use in smoke control areas when burning wood.”
Refuelling on to a low fire bed
If there is insufficient burning material in the firebed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can
occur. Refuelling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash that the new fuel
charge will ignite in a reasonable period. If there are too few embers in the fire bed, add suitable kindling to
prevent excessive smoke.
Fuel overloading
The maximum amount of fuel specified in this manual should not be exceeded, overloading can cause excess
smoke.

Operation with door left open
Operation with the door open can cause excess smoke. The appliance must not be operated with the appliance
door left open except as directed in the instructions.
Dampers left open
Operation with the air controls or appliance dampers open can cause excess smoke. The appliance must not be
operated with air controls, appliance dampers or door left open except as directed in the instructions.
FUEL
Wood- All types of wood are suitable provided they are wells seasoned, UNTREATED, and have a moisture level between
12% and 20%. For soft woods, typically they will need to have been left in suitable storage for 9+ months in order for the
moisture to evaporate. For hardwoods, this will usually be 18 months+. It is recommended that logs should be no more than
5” or 125mm in diameter. Logs should be no more than 350mm in length. If you are unsure of the moisture content of your
fuel, then you can buy a moisture meter which will indicate the moisture levels in your fuel.
Liquid fuels must NEVER be used.
WARNING: Wet timber should not be used as this will create excess tar deposits in the chimney and stove and could increase
the risk of chimney fire. Timber which is not of a suitable moisture content will also create more smoke and harmful
emissions.
Manufactured smokeless coals and anthracite can be used and will all have different qualities and effects. –Do NOT use
Petro-Coke based fuels or any petroleum based fuels as this will invalidate the warranty. Do NOT use coal that is designed
only for open fires
Never use your stove as incinerator to burn waste or rubbish.
AIR INLET CONTROLS
Your stove has three air inlet areas-
The Primary vent is located in the bottom of the door and is controlled by a knob that slides left and right. This allows air
underneath the grate of the stove. This is normally left closed but can be opened to allow maximum air into the stove when
first lighting if required.
The Secondary vent is located under the stove and is controlled by a lever under the bottom shelf of the stove marked “S”.
Pull it away from the stove to open the vent fully. This allows air in to the stove which is then channelled around up the sides
and enters the firebox above the top of the door glass. This also helps to keep the glass clearer. To ensure thorough
combustion this vent is always partly open even in the minimum position (with the vent control pushed away from you).
The Tertiary vent is located underneath the stove and is controlled by a lever underneath the bottom shelf of the stove marked
“T”. Pull it away from the stove to open the vent fully. This allows air in to the back of the firebox to aid clean combustion.
This control is designed such that this air supply to be stove cannot be fully shutdown. This is necessary to aid a clean
combustion and comply with appliance exemption under the Clean Air Act 1993 for use within UK Smoke Control Areas.
TOOLS
The glove is provided for adjusting the air inlets and for opening the door when the stove is hot, as these knobs will heat up
when in use.
NOTE –all parts of the stove will become hot during use and care needs to be taken to avoid injury through burning.

The tool handle provided is for removing the ash-pan.
LIGHTING THE FIRE
Prior to lighting the fire for the first time, ensure that-
Installation and building work is complete.
The chimney is suitable and sound and has been swept and free from obstruction.
Adequate ventilation and provision for combustion air has been made.
That the stove installation has been carried out in accordance with Building Regulations and any applicable local
regulations as well as these installation instructions.
That chimney draw has been checked and within specification. (The stove has been tested at nominal output with a
flue draught of 12 Pa)
ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE READ AND UNDERSTOOD THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE LIGHTING THE
FIRE, AND THAT YOU ARE CONFIDENT THE STOVE HAS BEEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY.
ALWAYS WEAR A PROTECTIVE GLOVE WHEN REFUELLING YOUR STOVE.
Ignition
Ensure all air inlets are fully open
Construct a pile of kindling in the middle of the grate using approximately 1kg of kindling wood
Light with a single chemical firelighter
Partially shut the door but leaving it cracked open slightly
After about 5 minutes or when the fire is well established, shut the door
After a further 3-5 minutes as the flames begin to die, add a further three larger pieces of wood weighing approx 1kg.
Once theses logs are alight, and after about 7 minutes or so, a normal load of 2 or 3 logs weighing approximately
1.2kgs in total can be added
Once this load is burning well, the Primary and Secondary vents can be altered according to your required burn rate
and chimney draw strength..
Refuelling
Open the Primary air vent fully
Add up to 1.2kg of wood
Leave the door ajar for a period of 2 –3 minutes to fully establish flames on the new refuel charge.
At high power output, your stove will require refuelling approximately every 60 minutes.
It is important to follow these instructions in order to achieve clean burning and to maximise the efficiency of the
stove
Do not leave the fire unattended until flames are well established an the newly charged logs
Always refuel onto hot embers.
If the fire has died out at the point of refuelling, use kindling to re-establish the fire and follow the “Ignition”
procedure above.
It is important that the stove is not overloaded with fuel.
Reduced burn rates can be achieved by reducing the openings of the Primary and Secondary air vents..
Operation with the door open can cause excessive smoke. The appliance must not be operated with the door left open
except as directed in the instructions above.
IMPORTANT –For the first 20 hours burning only use gentle small controlled wood fires (NO COAL) –
during which the first 3 x 1 hour fires must be small kindling wood fires only (this will temper the
paintwork). After these small fires, gently increase fires over the course of a week or so. Starting a large fire
too soon is likely to damage the stove in which case will not be covered by the warranty.

IMPORTANT –During the tempering-in period DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE STOVE –the paint
will be relatively soft, and could easily be marked.
WARNING- The high temperature paint covering the stove will give off some fumes during the initial few
uses of the stove. The fumes are non-toxic, but some people may find them unpleasant –Ensure the area
is well ventilated during this period.
The output ratings of this stove are based on around 1.7kg of seasoned logs which would require refuelling every 60 minutes.
This stove is suitable for intermittent burning, and should not be used constantly for extended periods. Not suitable for
overnight burning.
Under certain abnormal weather conditions, e.g. down draughts, it may be difficult to get sufficient draw through the
appliance to achieve good combustion. When this happens, the stove should not be used.
CLEANING/MAINTENANCE
Regular cleaning of the stove is essential for safety and efficiency. The ash-pan should be emptied at least after every use, and
during use if burning for longer periods.
When cold, the inside of the stove should be given a regular sweep out.
The flue and flue pipe will require cleaning with a suitable chimney brush, to minimise build up of soot and tar.
You chimney will also require periodic sweeping.
If the glass becomes stained from the inside, the air-wash vent may need opening more during use. The glass can be cleaned
with a cloth and chemical stove glass cleaner, or the glass cleaning pad made by Schott.
The high temperature paint which your stove is finished in should last many years with normal use, but when it does
eventually require re-finishing, black heat resistant paint in spray cans can be purchased from most hardware stores. –Do not
use regular paint which is not high temperature resistant.
After prolonged periods of not using the fire, the stove and flue system should be checked for blockages prior to re-lighting.
We recommend regular servicing and safety checks are carried out by a qualified engineer.
There must be no unauthorised modification of the appliance. Use only replacement parts recommended by the
manufacturer.
GUARANTEE
The main body of your stove is guaranteed for 3 years. This does not include glass, grates, door seals, fire-bricks, inner
linings, baffle, paint, over-firing incorrect use or installation not carried out by a competent person or in accordance with
building regulations. –You should have zero problems with your stove unless it is abused and if treated well your stove will
last and last.
Note: the firebricks inside the stove can crack with normal use –this is not a fault. This will be the case with
most makes and models of stove. The purpose of the firebricks is to help to keep heat in the firebox –cracks will
not adversely affect this function as long as the bricks are still in place. If a large crack does develop it can easily
be repaired with a small amount of fire cement.

What to do in the event of a chimney fire:-
cut off the air supply to the stove, i.e. close the primary and secondary air supplies
move any combustible materials well-away from the stove
get everyone out safely
make sure that the fire brigade has clear access
call 999
If you have any questions or concerns regarding the safe use of your stove, please contact us.
Saltfire Stoves
Station Works
Johns Road
Wareham
Dorset
BH20 4BG
01929 555211
www.saltfirestoves.com
KEEP SAFE –DO NOT THROW AWAY

Troubleshooting Solutions For Stove Problems
Installed and used correctly your stove will provide years of warmth with little effort, but used incorrectly will be difficult to
achieve the results you expect and can be damaged.
Combustion is a complex chemical process with many variables, all of which need to be correct for your stove to burn
correctly. Taking the time to understand these variables and the combustion process will make your life with your new
stove a happy one.
1. Stove is difficult to light / keep lit
Common causes:
a. Damp fuel –Wood should be maximum 20% moisture and ideally 12-15%. We strongly advise purchasing a digital
moisture meter to test your logs. Always split logs in half and test the centre of the log.
b. Poor draught and chimney strength –Your chimney needs to pull through adequate air for combustion. Flue draught
should be between 12Pa and 18Pa –if in doubt consult a local expert.
c. Logs too big –Always start fires small and gradually build them up. Begin with paper or solid firelighters, building a small
fire with kindling (small sticks of wood) until the kindling is well alight and hot. Then gradually build the fire with your wood
logs (not too thick). (Splitting the logs will increase the surface area allowing more thorough burning). Once the firebox is up
to temperature, people choosing to burn coal can then gradually build a coal fire, or those just using wood can add some
slightly larger logs.
d. Chimney/flue blocked –Excessive soot should not be allowed to build up in the flue –flues should be professionally
cleaned when required and in any case at least once per year, or more if your chimney / fuel type is causing excessive soot
build up.
2. Fuel burns too quickly
The rated output on your stove is based on burning dry seasoned hardwood and re-fuelling every hour. By turning down the
vent controls the fuel will burn slower and last longer.
Common causes:
a. Excessively strong chimney draught –If by turning down the vents the fire still burns too quickly, this is normally due to
excessively strong draught on the chimney. This will lead to over-firing of the stove which is inefficient, losing excessive heat
into the chimney and pulling too much cold air through the house. A flue damper fitted into the first section of flue pipe can
help to calm a chimney draught.
b. Fuel type/size –try experimenting with different types of wood/fuel and different sized logs. Coal and slightly larger logs
will burn slower. Softwood such as pine will burn particularly fast.
3. Smoke comes back into room
A small amount of smoke entering the room when you open the stove door is normal but should stop after a few seconds.

If smoke ever leaks constantly into the room stop using the fire immediately, shut down all vents on the stove, open
windows and exit the room. Do not use the stove until a local expert has established the problem.
Common causes:
a. Insufficient air supply into the room –do you have an air brick of sufficient size to feed the stove with air?
b. Blocked chimney –have the chimney swept and checked by a registered chimney sweep.
c. Insufficient chimney draught –can be due to a variety of reasons –please refer to previous text under “Poor draught and
chimney strength”
d. Rapid condensation of the gases - causing them to slow down and back up in the chimney –this can be due to too broad
a chimney/flue, relative to the size of the appliance or the flue not being adequately insulated. You may need a flue liner
and/or insulation in the chimney.
4. Glass gets dirty quickly
Common causes:
a. Top vents not open –if your stove had top vents these control the airwash system –the top vent needs to be constantly
open adequately to ensure enough air is coming into the stove. No airwash will work when the stove is burning very slowly
(slumbering).
b. Poor fuel –wet wood or softwood (e.g. pine) will produce a lot of tar, creosote and soot, dirtying the glass and eventually
blocking the flue.
c. Insufficient chimney draught –see previous note under “Poor draught and chimney strength”.
d. Baffle plate incorrectly fitted –see diagram. The plate should rest on the back wall of the stove and tilt up towards the
front, where it rests on the protruding lugs on either side of the stove. The below diagram shows a typical stove and the
positioning of the baffle plate –your stove may be slightly different. Some stoves have the baffle permanently fixed in
position, but often they are easily removable.
5. Not enough heat being produced
Common causes:
a. Poor quality fuel –logs should be dry well seasoned hardwood.
b. Poor draught and chimney strength –see previous notes.
c. Excessive draught –too much heat being lost up the chimney –try a damper in the flue.
d. Insufficient air supply - Check air supply is sufficient / vents on stove are clear. Does the room have a vent?
e. Not enough fuel being burned –the rated output of your stove is based on burning beech wood (typical of most
hardwoods), refuelling once per hour. One kg of this wood has approximately 4-5 kw hours of energy.
f. Larger stove / stove with higher output required for room size.

6. Too much heat in room
Common causes:
a. Excessive chimney draw –try fitting a damper unit in flue
b. Too much air supply –close down primary vent, then if still too hot reduce secondary vent.
c. Stove may be too large for room size.
7. Grate deformed / Baffle plate deformed
Your stove will have been designed to operate correctly for many years with a relevant quantity of fuel and re-loading
times. The grate and baffle plate can over time start to bow/deform –this can only be caused by very high temperatures.
Common causes:
a. Excessive chimney draw –try a damper in the flue.
b. Excessive primary air supply –close down primary vents.
c. Incorrect fuel
d. Stove overloaded –excessive burning of too much fuel.
The baffle plate and the inner linings of the stove, and the grate all designed to be replaceable parts –call us if you need to
order new ones.
Additional troubleshooting for boiler stoves
Boiler stoves work slightly differently to non-boiler stoves and need certain extra considerations.
Boiler stoves generally burn with a cooler firebox temperature due to the water jacket constantly taking away heat. For the
stove to work effectively and for a thorough combustion you need to be able to maintain a good temperature in the firebox.
It is crucial to use good quality dry well seasoned fuel, with logs not too large.
Central heating pumps should not circulate until the water reaches 50°C, and should not circulate at too fast a rate.

The BTU value of radiators and pipework should not exceed the water cylinder output at which you intend to run the stove
and in any case should never have a combined BTU value higher than the maximum output of the stove.
If you are experiencing problems including insufficient heat being provided –in order to help establish the cause and
solution we will need to know specifically what fuel you are burning and the rate (kg per hour) at which you are burning the
fuel, and in the case of wood, the average moisture content of the centre of the logs (we suggest using a moisture meter to
check moisture levels in logs).
Only by monitoring this burning rate over the course of several burn cycles can we quantify the outputs being produced and
begin to establish a cause of the problem.
If you are experiencing these problems please email us at [e-mail] with your invoice number, name
and purchase date, detailing as much information as possible considering all of the above information (and the general
troubleshooting advice we give for all stoves). The more accurate and detailed the information the quicker we will be able
to help you to establish improvements you can make to your system.
©Copyright Saltfire Stoves 2016