Snapper 212CST User manual

Service Manual for
TRIMMER ENGINES:
Models 212CST,213CST,214DCST & 215SST
SNAPPER POWER EQUIPMENT
McDonough,GA» 30253
IE/:!:
FUQUA
Compiny
MANUAL #07415 (IR 4/88)

TABLE OF CONTENTS
TWO CYCLE ENGINE THEORY.
FAMILIARIZATION.
INTRODUCTION.
POWERHEAD CHANGES.
MANUAL LAYOUT.
FAN HOUSING CLUTCH.
FLYWHEEL, IGNITION SYSTEM.
STARTER.
AIR FILTER.
CARBURETOR & FUEL SYSTEM.
CARBURETORS.
ZAMA NON-GOVERNED CARBURETOR.
WALBRO GOVERNED CARBURETOR.
GENERAL CARBURETOR INFORMATION.
FUEL TANK SYSTEM.
EXHAUST SYSTEM.
THE POWER HEAD.
PRESSURE TEST.
PISTON REMOVAL.
CRANKCASE.
MAIN BEARINGS & OIL SEALS.
CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE.
21.2 cc TWO-CYCLE ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURES
. 3
. 4
. 5
. 5
. 5
. 5-6
. 6 -7
. 7-9
... 9-10
. 1 0
. 1 0
. 1 0 -11
. 1 2
. 1 2
. 1 3
. 1 3 -14
. 1 4
. 1 4
. 1 4 -15
. 1 5
15-16
. 1 7
. 1 8
IT IS THE POLICY OF SNAPPER POWER EQUIPMENT TO IMPROVE ITS PRODUCTS
WHENEVER IT IS POSSIBLE AND PRACTICAL TO DO SO. WE RESERVE THE RIGHT TO
MAKE CHANGES OR ADD IMPROVEMENTS AT ANY TIME WITHOUT INCURRING ANY
OBLIGATION TO MAKE SUCH CHANGES ON PRODUCTS MANUFACTURED PREVIOUSLY
2

TWO-CYCLE ENGINE THEORY
TWO-CYCLE ENGINE OPERATIONS
The two-cycle engine has two strokes or cycles in which
to complete all of the steps necessary to achieve com¬
bustion as follows:
COMPRESSION BUILDS
4 SPARK FIRES
UPWARD STROKE
(UPWARD CYCLE)
THE UPWARD STROKE OR CYCLE of the
Piston creates a vacuum in the crankcase which
sucks the air-fuel mixture from the carburetor. At the
same time, the piston seals off the transfer and
exhaust ports and compresses the fuel charge in the
combustion chamber. Near the top of the upward
stroke, the spark plug fires the fuel charge.
THE DOWNWARD STROKE OR CYCLE of the
Piston caused by the exploding fuel, seals the inlet
from the carburetor and begins to build pressure in
the crankcase. As the piston continues downward,
the exhaust port is uncovered and burned gases
escape from the combustion chamber. Near the
bottom of the downstroke, the transfer port is un¬
covered by the piston and the compressed air-fuel
mixture in the crankcase rushes into the combustion
chamber. While some fuel escapes through the ex¬
haust port, the whirling motion of the incoming fuel
charge clears the combustion chamber of almost all
burned gases while limiting the escape of fresh fuel. 3
TWO-CYCLE LUBRICATION
Engine lubrication depends on the addition of oil to the
gasoline. When this mixture passes through the carbu¬
retor, it becomes vaporized, allowing tiny droplets of oil
to lubricate all internal surfaces.
TWO-CYCLE GASOLINE
• Use either regular grade leaded or regular grade
unleaded gasoline. Two Cycle fuel is a mixture of
gasoline and lubricating oil. The ratio of gasoline to
oil is important. Always use SNAPPER 32:1 two-
cycle custom lubricant following the mixing table
instructions on the bottle or can. If SNAPPER
lubricant is not available, you can use a quality brand
two-cycle oil at a 20:1 ratio.
• DO NOT USE LEADED OR UNLEADED GAS¬
OLINE ALTERNATELY because changing fuel
types can cause serious engine damage and void
Manufacturer’s warranty. Always use regular grade
leaded gasoline or always use regular grade unleaded
fuel. Use only one type.
. GASOHOL USE IS PROHIBITED as a fuel in any
SNAPPER Two-Cycle engine product. It will damage
the engine and void the Manufacturer’s warranty. Be¬
cause of its affinity for water, the alcohol in the Gaso-
hol draws water from the atmosphere. Since the
density of water is greater the gasoline, it settles to
the bottom of the tank along with the alcohol. There
is no effective way to remove the water. Water con¬
taminated Gasohol washes the cylinder walls of
lubricant.
1 . Alcohol Detection Test
In areas where Gasohol may pose a problem, a
simple test for the presence of alcohol can be
performed. To perform a test, a graduated glass
cylinder is required and may be purchased from
your local lab equipment supply center. To be¬
gin the test, pour equal amounts of gasoline and
water into the measuring cylinder and stir or shake
well. Let the mixture stand for several minutes.
2. Reading the Cylinder
The presence of alcohol in gasoline can be de¬
termined as follows:
A. If there is no alcohol in the fuel, the amount
of water and gasoline will be the same
quantity as originally poured.
B. If there is alcohol present in the gasoline, the
quantity of water will be greater than the
amount originally poured into the cylinder.
• MIX FUEL by pouring half of the gasoline and all of
the oil into an approved fuel container. Cover the
container and shake vigorously. Add the rest of the
gasoline and shake again to thoroughly mix fuel and
oil.
NOTE: When two-cycle engines are used only occasionally,
there may be trouble starting the engine because most
gasolines are adjusted to compensate for seasonal temp¬
eratures, and a gasolines purchased during the summer may
not provide easy starting in the winter. Gasoline should be
bought as needed and not stored over a long period.

FAMILIARIZATION
This manual was prepared to expedite service repairs on
the SNAPPER 21.2 cc Power Head Engine. At the
time of writing, the data contained herein was com¬
pletely up-to-date. However, due to SNAPPER’S
continued improvement in design requirements, it is
possible that the appearance of component parts may
vary slightly from those of the actual engine being re¬
paired.
NOMENCLATURE
The nomenclature drawing below shows the essential
parts of the SNAPPER 21.2 cc Power Head
Engine. It is recommended that all mechanics and
other repair personnel become thoroughly familiar
with the controls, components and operation of this
engine before attempting any repairs.
MUFFLER
GUARD
SPARK
PLUG
CLUTCH & -
FLYWHEEL
HOUSING
MUFFLER
— SPARK
ARRESTOR
- RECOIL
STARTER
ASSEMBLY
STARTER
HANDLE
SPARK
PLUG
WIRE -
THOTTLE-
CONNECTION
-PRIMER
CARBURETOR-
-AIR
FILTER
-VENTED
FUEL
CAP
FUEL-
TANK
MOUNT
-CHOKE
CONTROL
4

SERVICE MANUAL 21.2cc ENGINE
INTRODUCTION
The purpose of this manual is to provide service in¬
formation and procedures that will enable you to
properly service the SNAPPER 21.2cc engine -
a versatile, dependable 2-cycle power unit.
POWERHEAD CHANGES
There have been various minor changes to the 21,2cc
engine since its introduction several years ago. There¬
fore, when servicing a particular unit, always identify the
model number and serial number prefix in order to
reference the correct Illustrated Parts List.
MANUAL LAYOUT
This manual will cover the various configurations of the
POWERHEAD since its introduction. Beginning
with the removal of the Fan Housing, the manual will
proceed through tear-down techniques, until the
unit is completely disassembled. Special assembly
procedures will be noted during the disassembly pro¬
cedures. Where there are two versions of the same
component, the parts will be covered separately, one
preceding the other.
A. FAN HOUSING CLUTCH
1. To gain access to the clutch and drum,
remove the four fan housing retaining
screws.
2. The clutch drum and drive coupler in the
fan housing are supported by a roller
bearing. 5
3. To remove the drum, insert a deep socket
into the fan housing as shown. Support
the ends of the fan housing so that the
drum and bearing may be pressed out.
(Do not tap out the drum). You must use
an arbor press or like device for this opera¬
tion. See Figure 3.
4. Remove the bearing from the drive adapt¬
or shaft by first lifting off the washer and
removing the snap ring.
5. Using a bearing puller or by supporting
the bearing between two surfaces as
shown, press the shaft through the bear¬
ing. Reinstall bearing by pressing on
inside of clutch drum, using the same
techniques as removing the bearing. See

Reinstall clutch drum assembly by first
reinserting washer into fan housing,
rounded portion of washer facing in.
Lightly coat the housing where the
bearing will be inserted with clean 30 -
weight oil. Pressing on the center of the
drum, press the assembly in until it seats.
Be certain that assembly is not uneven
when applying press force. See Figure
5.
B. FLYWHEEL, IGNITION SYSTEM
1. Remove the flywheel by holding the en¬
gine slightly off the table and tapping
the non-magnetic side of the flywheel
with a plastic hammer. Once loosened,
pull the flywheel off the crankshaft. See
Figure 7.
plastic •
MALLET
Tt-
■ PRESS CLUTCH
DRUM & BEARING
ASSEMBLY INTO
HOUSING
\\f'
TAP NON- -
MAGNETIC
SIDE OF
FLYWHEEL
UNTIL x
LOOSENED jA
MAGNETIC SIDE
OF FLYWHEEL
FIGURE 5
FIGURE 7
Clutch removal is made easy with special
tool, part number 42186 . First, remove
the spark plug and insert a knotted piece
of rope into the cylinder to act as a piston
stop. Remove clutch in a counter-clock¬
wise direction. Any portion of the clutch
may be serviced separately by removing
the two clutch springs. See Figure 6.
2 .
As a general rule, the magnet on the fly¬
wheel should be strong enough to hold
the flywheel to a screwdriver. Letters on
on the flywheel “S” (SEM) stand for the
brand of the ignition that the flywheel
should be keyed to.
NOTE
r~ ytVc C‘*ff( /- i *
Exception, SEM AM 32 ignitomshould be
keyed to the keyway for Wabash ignitions.
3. A sheared woodruff key will adversely
affect the timing of the engine. Ensure
that the key is in excellent condition be¬
fore reinstalling the flywheel. Torque
flywheel nut on clutch to 150-165 lbs. »«
4. The theory that an “ignition either works
or does not work” is not always true.
Electronic Ignitions can produce inter¬
mittent spark or spark only at certain
temperatures. Refer to the troubleshoot¬
ing guide when in doubt about ignition
problems. Replace the ignition by
removing the two retaining screws and
disconnecting the module wires. See
Figure 8.
FIGURE 6
6

5. Reinstall the ignition assembly leaving the
retaining screws finger tight. Place a .012
feeler gauge between the ignition and fly¬
wheel as shown. Rotate the flywheel until
magnets are adjacent to the ignition, draw
the ignition tight against the flywheel.
Torque the ignition retaining screws to 12 -
16 in. lbs. Reconnect module wires.
C. STARTER
1. Like the fan housing, the starter housing is
offered in metal or plastic. Shown here in
plastic, the main difference between the
two housings is the method by which the
fuel tank is retained.
2. To service the plastic starter, remove the
three retaining screws, one of which is the
muffler shield screw. The starter housing
in conjunction with a cast section on the
crankcase form the fuel tank brackets.
Both areas must be covered with appro¬
priate tank cushions as shown. See
3. The metal starter is fastened in the same
manner as the plastic fan housing.
4. While the starter mechanics on the metal
starter are the same as the plastic starter,
the fuel tank bracket assemblies are very
different. The metal starter and brackets
are shown here in order of disassembly.
Refer to Figure 9.
J5. Because the two starters operate the
same, only one type (the plastic starter)
will be depicted to demonstrate drum,
rope and spring replacement. To replace
starter components, first pull a section of
cord out from the spool and release coil
tension. The rope should then dangle
without recoiling. See Figure 10.
6 . Remove the handle by untying or cutting
the knot and removing the washer. See

WARNING
USE FACE MASK OR PROTECTIVE SHIELD
BEFORE ATTEMPTING NEXT STEPS!
7. To remove starter drum, remove the single
retaining screw and washer. The spring
beneath the starter drum is still under ten¬
sion. Gently remove the starter drum with
a slight twisting motion. See Figure 12.
FIGURE 12
NOTE
IF ONLY REPLACING DRUM/ROPE ASSEMBLY,
BE CERTAIN THAT STARTER SPRING REMAINS
SEATED, FLUSH AGAINST STARTER HOUSING.
IF THE SPRING IS NOT FLUSH, IT MAY HAVE
TO BE REMOVED AND REWOUND BY HAND.
TO REMOVE SPRING, GENTLY TAP STARTER
ON TABLE, FACE DOWN, TRAPPING THE UN¬
WINDING SPRING AGAINST THE TABLE.
8 . W hile an existing spring must be wound by
hand or machine, a new spring comes pre¬
wound. Firmly grasp the spring and remove
the retention band.
9. G ently install spring into housing. Ensure
that spring is flush on housing floor. The
open end of the spring should go around
the boss, located at the 12 o'clock position,
and face away from the rope. See Figure 13.
FIGURE 13
10. R einstall new rope with knot securely tuck¬
ed away in the pocket as shown. Apply a
light coat of grease to the spring side of
the drum. See Figure 14.
FIGURE 14

11. Feed the starter rope through the rope
guide and seat the drum securely against
the starter. Torque drum screw to 18 - 21
in. lbs. Insert rope through handle, install
washer, and knot end of rope securely.
See Figure 15.
12. W ith the rope hooked in the starter drum
notch, make several counter-clockwise
rotations in order to place tension on the
starter spring. There should be ample
recoil strength to retract the handle back
to the rope guide. Refer to Figure 16.
13. F inally, test recoil strength by pulling out
all starter rope and holding between
fingers as shown. There must be approx¬
imately 1/4 turn of play left in the starter
drum after full extension of the rope. If
there is not sufficient play, take one rota¬
tion on the drum in the reverse direction.
14. At this point, the starter housing
could be reinstalled on the engine or
the ratchet assembly serviced. Re¬
torque the starter housing retaining
screws to 12 -16 in. lbs. Use loctite.
15. The starter drum engages with the
starter ratchet to turn the engine for
starting.
16. Using a 12mm wrench, hold the low¬
er ratchet nut stationary and remove
the upper ratchet nut. Next, remove
the ratchet assembly by winding it
off counter-clockwise. See Figure 17.
FIGURE 17
17. T he entire ratchet assembly must be
replaced if any part of it becomes
worn or broken. Reinstall the ratchet
hand tight and retorque the upper
nut to 150-168 in. lbs.
D. AIR FILTER
1. To remove the air filter assembly, re¬
move the two air filter cover retaining
screws. Lift the cover off and remove
the air filter seated in the back of the
cover. See Figure 18.
FIGURE 16
9

FIGURE 18
2. Remove the two inner air filter screws
and remove the carburetor, manifold
and gaskets. As always, make note
of the order and position in which the
components are removed. Replace
all worn or torn gaskets. Refer to
Figure 18.
3. Reinstall the air filter assembly, be
certain to place the two (2) washers/
spacers beneath the choke plate.
Tighten the airbox retaining screw
on the choke plate lightly and test
movement of choke shutter before
final torque. Torque to 25 - 30 in. lbs.
Some metal airbox units were equip¬
ped with carburetor studs instead of
screws. In those cases, nuts retain¬
ed the airbox. Tighten nut to 20 - 25
in. lbs. Refer to Figure 18.
F. CARBURETORS
1. A ll carburetors on these engines may
be checked for leakage with a simple
pressure tester. Connect the hose of
the tester to the fuel inlet nipple and
pressurize the carburetor to 6 P.S.I.
The carburetor should be able to hold 6
P.S.I. with no leaks. Leaks may occcur
at the inlet needle, welch plugs or fuel
pump gaskets/cover. The inlet needle
should release pressure at 16 - 29 P.S.I.
G. ZAMA NON-GOVERNED CARBURETOR
1. Inspect primer bulb for visible leaks
before disassembly.
2. To inspect the metering portion of the
carburetor, remove the two (2) cover
retaining screws. Inspect the diaphragm
for tears and pliability. Ensure that the
cover vent hole is open and the cover is in
good condition. Also, examine the meter¬
ing disc for breaks. See Figure 19.
FIGURE 19
E. CARBURETOR AND FUEL SYSTEM
1. Because of the various applications of the
21 , 2cc power unit, several different car¬
buretors are used on the engine. This
manual will cover the two basis types:
Zama - Trimmer carburetor
Walbro - Trimmer governed carburetor.
3. R emove the inlet needle retaining screw
to release the metering system. See
Figure 20.
10

FIGURE 20
4. Inspect the rubber tip of the needle for
swelling or dry rot. The lever spring must
be in original form to operate the lever
properly. Replace any components that
are suspect. Reinstall the needle with
care. Ensure that the spring is seated in
the casting and is under the dimple on
the bottom of the lever.
5. Set the metering lever so that the back of
the lever is flush with the top of the car¬
buretor body. If the lever is not flush, gently
bend the lever until the desired setting is
achieved. See Figure 21.
7. Reinstall the new plug with any device that
is the same dimension as the welch plug.
Seal the welch plug with “Seal All” or clear
nail polish.
8 . Remove the fuel pump cover for inspection
of the fuel pump gaskets, diaphragms and
screws. Ensure proper reassembly order
of gaskets/diaphragms. See Figure 22.
FIGURE 22
9. R emove high and low speed needles,
inspect tips for damage. Reinstall the high
speed needle one turn from seat, and the
low speed needle 1-1/4 turns out from seat.
DO NOT wind the needles tight when
seating. Damage to tips will result. See
Figure 23.
CARBURETOR BODY
LOW SPEED HIGHSPEED
NEEDLE NEEDLE
FIGURE 21
6 . R eplace welch plugs only if a leak is found.
Gently punch the welch plug, being careful
not to damage the casting below. Refer
to Figure 20.
11
FIGURE 23

H. WALBRO GOVERNED CARBURETOR
1. I nstalled on all Trimmers that accept Brush/
Grass blades, the Walbro governed car¬
buretor governs engine speed to approx¬
imately 6500 R.P.M. The “Hunting”
characteristics or raising and lowering of
engine R.P.M. is normal with this
carburetor. No other type of carburetor
should be substituted. Inspect the
metering side for dry rot or torn gaskets/
diaphragms. See Figure 24.
2. I nspect the inlet system as in the Zama
carburetor, except reset the inlet lever
flush with the carburetor floor. See
Figure 25.
3. While the carburetor is off the unit, always
inspect the condition of the fuel pump
section. Replace any suspect components.
The governor A is a spring and check
ball system tha releases fuel by engine
vibration. (Approximately 6500 R.P.M.).
The governor cannot be replaced, but can
be removed and cleaned. Reseal governor
screws with “Seal All” or clear nail polish
See Figure 26.
4. Examine the speed needles for tip damage
and set to specs:
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE -1 turn from seat.
LOW SPEED NEEDLE -11/4 turns from
seat.
I. GENERAL CARBURETOR INFORMATION
While carburetors may change slightly during
the production of the 21,2cc engine, basic
repair/troubleshooting techniques remain the
same:
1. Pressure test to 6 P.S.I. for leaks of inlet,
welch plugs and fuel pump.
2. Inspect all diaphragms/gaskets for dry rot
and tears.
3. Clear all atmostpheric vent holes in covers.
4. Clean all filters/screens.
5. Inspect inlet systems for bent springs,
swollen needle tips, proper lever height.
6 . Inspect and set high/low speed needles.
7. Ensure proper order of gaskets/diaphragms.
FIGURE 25
12
For additional information, refer to the carburetor
troubleshooting chart in this manual, or your
Illustrated Parts List.

J. FUEL TANK SYSTEM
K. EXHAUST SYSTEM
1. Remove the starter assembly as explained
earlier. Gently pry off the fuel line. Refer
to Figure 9, page
2. The fuel tank system consists of:
(A.) Tank
(B.) Vented fuel cap
(C.) Hose/Fuel Pickup
(D.) Hose/Fuel Return (On By-Pass
Primer Carburetors
(E.) Fuel pickup/filter. See Figure 27.
3. R etrieve the pickup with a bent paper clip.
Replacement of filter/grommet and line can
be done without removing the fuel tank
from the unit. Never replace the filter with¬
out close examination of the fuel line. See
Figure 28.
1. This engine is equipped with a plastic
muffler shield.
2. Recalling that the one shield retaining
screw was removed with the starter, re¬
move the last two screws to remove the
shield. See Figure 29.
3. Be certain to include metal inserts when
reinstalling shield. NOTE: Exhaust
outlet on plastic shield allows for spark
arrestor screen to be serviced without
removal. Refer to Figure 33.
4. Ensure that exhaust gasket is not cracked
and spark arrestor is clear. Replace spark
arrestor screen rather than attempting to
clean it. Cleaning the screen will normally
result in enlarging screen holes, reducing
screen’s effectiveness to stop sparks.
5. While the muffler components are removed,
examine the exhaust port for carbon build¬
up. Clean the port as follows:
(A.) Pull the starter rope slowly until the
piston covers the port completely.
(B.) Use a wooden scraper and clean in
and around the port. Do not use any
metal or sharp-edged tool that might
slip and scratch the piston or rings.
FIGURE 28
13

(C.) After cleaning, turn the exhaust port
down and blow any loose particles
away with compressed air. Wear eye
protection during this operation. See
Figure 30.
Muffler studs are threaded into the cylinder.
The muffler studs protrude by 60mm.
FIGURE 30
L. THEPOWERHEAD
Piston/Cylinder/Crankcase
1. P RESSURE TEST
(a) An engine with an air leak exhibits
erratic idle, and/or excessive R.P.M.
Test the crankcase for air leaks using
the special tools as listed:
1. INTAKE PLATE #42187.
2. I NT. PL. GASKET #42188.
3. EXHAUST GASKET #42189.
4. PRESSURE TESTOR #42190.
(b) Place the exhaust shut-off gasket
over the exhaust port and install the
muffler. Install the intake gasket and
shut-off plate. Use two (2) short
M5x0.8 screws to retain the plate.
With the sparkplug secure, pressur¬
ize the crankcase to 6 P.S.I. See
Figure 31.
NOTE
IF THE SYSTEM LOSES MORE THAN 1 LB.
PER MINUTE, LOCATE THE LEAK. CHECK
FOR LEAKS AROUND THE ADAPTOR
GASKETS, OIL SEALS OR ANY POROUS
AREAS OF THE CRANKCASE.
FIGURE 31
(c) While piston/cylinder condition can
be observed through the ports, only
by removing the cylinder will one get
complete details on powerhead con¬
dition. Remove the top shroud and
remove the two cylinder screws. Nib-Tor^
Uie- Tcrx 7".3 Cl efriver
(d) Do not confuse break-in wear marks
on the cylinder walls for scoring.
Scoring of the cylinder wall will be
rough to the touch. Be certain to re¬
place gasket if worn. The 21,2cc
engine is manufactured with a chrome
cylinder. Always check model, serial
number and Illustrated Parts List be¬
fore ordering cylinder and piston.
Retorque cylinder screws to 71 -81
in. lbs.
M. PISTON REMOVAL
1. First remove piston rings, then the snap
rings. The snap rings are located on both
sides of the piston pin. Utilize piston pin
driver, part number 42185.
to extract the pin. Line up the driver in ci Jer to
push the pin without binding. Place a rag under
the piston when nearing completion, as the needle
bearings may release from the cage. See Figure 3
2. Remove the piston and account for all 21
needle bearings. The cage retainer should
be pressed out if replacement is necessary.
Press new cage in evenly so that it protrudes
from the connecting rod equally on both
sides.
14

CRANKCASE
1. To separate the crankcase halves, remove
the four retaining screws located on the
starter side of the case. See Figure 34.
STARTER
SIDE OF
CRANK CASE
FIGURE 32
The piston has a ring locating pin. Be
certain that the ring end gap fits around the
pin during assembly. The arrow on the
piston dome MUST face the exhaust port.
Lightly coat a new piston/cylinder with 32:1
fuel mixture oil prior to assembly. See
Figure 33.
RING-
LOCATING
PIN
ARROW
MUST FACE
EXHAUST
PORT WHEN
RE-INSTALLING
PISTON
FIGURE 33
To make needle bearing retention better
during piston pin insertion, lightly grease
the inside of the cage. Reinstall the piston/
piston pin with the same special tool used
in removal. Ensure that piston pin enters
piston and connecting rod straight. Rein¬
stall snap rings. Use new rings if old snap
rings are disformed.
remove-
RETAINING
SCREWS TO
SEPARATE
CRANK CASE
FIGURE 34
2. Pull the crankcase apart and remove the
two dowel pins. The crankcase shaft will
pull out or can be gently pressed into the
case. The crankshaft/connecting rod
assembly is assembled at the factory and
cannot be serviced. If damaged, it must
be replaced.
0. MAIN BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS
1. The 21 ?cc engine uses needle main
bearings.
2. To press out the needle bearings, use a
socket with a slightly smaller O.D. than
the I.D. of the crankcase opening. Al¬
ways press bearings on the outside rim
or border. Reinstall bearings using the
same method. Lightly coat the bearings
with 30-weight oil, making installation
easier. Press bearing so that it protrudes
into the inside of the crankcase. The
surface of the bearing should measure
11 mm from the crankcase mating surface.
Use same method for other crankcase
half. See Figure 35.
15

MODEL
212
213
214
215
IDLE RPM
2500
2500
2500
2500
FULL THROTTLE
7200
7200
6800
7200
CLUTCH ENGAGE
3300
3300
3300
3300
16

CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
START
• WON'T or HARD START (ENGINE COLD)
1
2
• WON'T OR HARD START (ENGINE HOT)
• FUEL DRIPPING FROM CARBURETOR
3
• ENGINE FLOODS WHEN NOT RUNNING
4
IDLE
• WILL NOT IDLE
5
• RICH IDLE (LOADS UP WHILE IDLING)
6
• IDLES WITH LOW SPEED NEEDLE CLOSED
7
• ERRATIC IDLE
8
9 • "L" NEEDLE NEEDS FREQUENT ADJUSTMENT
ACCELERATION
OR
DECELERATION
• WILL NOT ACCELERATE
10
• ENGINE DIES ON DECELERATION
11
12
• POOR ACCELERATION
• SLOW DECELERATION
13
HIGH
SPEED
• WILL NOT RUN AT W.O.T.
14
• POOR OR LOW POWER UNDER LOAD
15
• WILL NOT 4-CYCLE UNDER NO LOAD AT W.O.T 16
• "H" NEEDLE NEEDS FREQUENT ADJUSTMENT
17
NOTE:
This guide should only be used when
standard engine troubleshooting procedures
indicate a problem with the fuel system.
• Verify fuel condition & proper mixture.
• Verify adequate secondary engine
compression.
• No primary air leaks and must hold
adequate primary crankcase
compression.
• Initial carburetor low speed, high
speed and idle adjustment set to
manufacturer's recommendations.
W.O.T. = WIDE OPEN THROTTLE
MINOR ADJUSTMENTS
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
ii
SB
13 14|l5
111
17
• LOW SPEED NEEDLE
•
IB
V:'
□
D
■
■ IDl □
11
□
■
• HIGH SPEED NEEDLE
•
ll§|
■
111
m
•
£0
D
110
V
• IDLE SPEED SCREW
D
JL
_ _
D
_
B □
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM
• FUEL CAP VENT (RESTRICTED/PLUGGED)
“
■
1
0 ■
“
H
11
0 m ■
• FUEL FILTER, LINE (RESTRICTED/PLUGGED)
m
o
n
§31
D
O iini
□
• FUEL LINE (LOOSE/DAMAGED)
□
0
m
o ■
11
12
1 ., I
0
0
Dll
D
• DIRT IN FUEL PASSAGE
_
_
_ _ _
ii o
n
■
_
L_
n
AIR INTAKE AND FUEL PUMP SYSTEM
• AIR FILTER (RESTRICTED)
•
0
[_ D
o
0
■
0
0
■ □
• CARBURETOR BOLTS, GASKETS (LOOSE/LEAKING)
11
ii
ii,e
o
11
0
O
0
0
• THROTTLE SHAFT, PLATE (LOOSE/WORN)
•
11
MM!
V. .: : ; ■
■ ' ■■■ V "'
o
.
0
0
a
7m
d
• THROTTLE SHAFT, PLATE (BENT/BINDING)
•
f l1 ; ■
o
, |
- ■
■ Wto
0
_J
• CHOKE SHAFT, PLATE (LOOSE/WORN/BENT)
•
*
'} ■ ■ |
0
■
§S !
□
• PULSE PASSAGE (LEAKING/RESTRICTED)
• ■
HR o
0
13
0
0
hji
0
o
0 81
• FUEL PUMP DIAPHRAGM, GASKET (LEAKING/STIFF/
MISASSEMBLED), COVER SCREWS (LOOSE)
B
■
B
i
B
B
fi:
B B B ■
• INLETSCREEN (RESTRICTED/PLUGGED)
□
EM
■
ill
o
■ WM
■
•
m
i
• THROTTLE PLATE SCREW (LOOSE)
•
■
• THROTTLE RETURN SPRING (DEFECTIVE)
fp
•
■ m
J
• THROTTLE STOP (BENT/DAMAGED)
| _
■ o
m
_ _ _ i
■
METERING SYSTEM
• INLETNEEDLE (STICKING)
0
§§§
■
HI
■
3
■
!§§
0
0
o
mu
0
• INLET NEEDLE LEAKING (DIRTY/WORN TIP/WORN SEAT)
0
13
; . . .••• ; .
ill:
0
jQj
0 0
0
• INLET LEVER, SPRING (WORN/BENT/IMPROPERLY INSTALLED)
o
0
O
13
■ 1.
O
I
11
n
0 0
• INLET LEVER (SETTOO HIGH)
a
o
4 , H
o
# '
■
■
• INLET LEVER (SETTOO LOW)
•
■
0
11
..
D
0
0
• METERING DISK (WORN)
.
• l
: . ■
_J
• METERING COVER VENT HOLE (RESTICTED/PLUGGED)
•
■
:v7:
0
ttm
m
SfS
• METERING DIAPHRAGM, GASKET (LEAKING/DAMAGED/
IMPROPERLY INSTALLED), COVER SCREWS (LOOSE)
•
■ B B
■
A
B
H
B H
B
ii
■ B
• WELSH PLUGS (LEAKING)
n
■
3@l
IP
El
§jj§
■
• LOW SPEED FUEL PASSAGES (RESTRICTED/PLUGGED)
•
o
ill
0
D
0
0
wm
mJk
• HIGH SPEED FUEL PASSAGES (RESTRICTED/PLUGGED)
•
0
Wit
0
• LOW OR HIGH SPEED NEEDLE, SEAT (DAMAGED/WORN)
•
0
0
O
q
0
§3
o
• LOW OR HIGH SPEED TENSION SPRING (DISTORTED/WEAK)
T 1-
v O
-
0
0
0
m
D
o
• MAIN NOZZLE CHECK VALVE (STICKING/BLOCKED)
•
■
0
0
mm
<3
■
• MAIN NOZZLE CHECK VALVE (LEAKING)
•
D 0
00
O m
J
17

SNAPPER
21.2
cc
Power
Head
TWO-CYCLE
ENGINE
TROUBLESHOOTING
PROCEDURES

NOTES

Manual for
TRIMMER ENGINES:
Models 212CST,213CST,
214DCST & 215SST
my> ]!SNAPPER POWER EQUIPMENT
iJ lu McDonough,GA* 30253
MANUAL #07415 (I R 4/88)