Sony Xbox Setup guide

Index
OPEN AN XBOX
Open a Controller
Cleaning your Xbox DVD drive
Xbox DVD repair
USB POR INS ALLA ION
USING PC DVD DRIVE
HARD DRIVE UPGRADES
F P MAS ERCLASS
Linux on your XBOX
Open an Xbox
Step 1 - Start with the necessary tools and a clear work area.
Helpful tools:
Insulated screw grabber (comes with many PC repair kits)
X- cto Knife useful for removing stickers and feet.
Wax paper, good for keeping those stickers in shape.
Required tools:
Torx 20
Torx 10
Step 2 - peel back the stickers. If you’re not too worried about looks a Torx
#20 punches right through the stickers with ease. If you want to keep it
looking tidy cut a piece of wax paper to size to help preserve the stickers.
Step 3 - The other case screws, a total of 6.

Getting at the screws under the feet. Just peel back the outer edge of the
rubber foot. Leave the other half of the adhesive rubber foot to hold it in
place. This is a good time to get out the X- cto knife to help peel back the
adhesive. (Update, I find I just cut the feet when I try to use the X-acto knife,
try wedging the #20 Torx in there and twist it using the "fins" on the driver to
pull up the pad just enough to get to the screw) Once you are able to get the
feet up just enough to get at the screw start un screwing, let the screw push
the foot out of the way rather than trying to peel it back further this way the
pad is only removed as much is absolutely necessary.
Once all six screws are removed, flip the box upright and grab the sides and
shake it a little bit and the bottom should drop away from the cover. I find this
is done most easily by putting the Xbox in my lap.
Step 4 - Drive removal, there are 3 screws total holding in both drives. First
remove the one for the hard drive; it is located under the IDE cable.

Two others are on either side of the front of the DVD drive. Once the screws
are removed unplug the IDE cable to the Hard Drive and loosen the power
cord from the track it sits in on the drive tray if you miss this step you wont be
able to remove the drive. The power cord can be left plugged in on the hard
drive, the cord is long enough to allow you to position as desired. The hard
drive needs to be lifted straight up for removal and there is no really good way
to grab it, I find sticking a finger in the hole in the front right of the carrier and
grasping the rear of the carrier with the other hand works to get it loose,
moved up about an inch or so and then lifting it with both hands from the sides
to remove it.

Step 5 - With the Hard drive out of the way we get a good shot of the
mounting screws for the power supply and DVD drive. Get those two screws
at the front of the DVD drive after removing the IDE cable and Yellow cord
from the motherboard. You may have a little difficulty removing the DVD
drive, it does not slip out easily but as long as you have the two screws in the
front and the two cables in the rear removed it can come out, again the trick is
to go straight up.
Now with the drives gone it is starting to look like a normal PC.

Removing the power cord from the motherboard. Most sites tell you to use
pliers to remove the power plug; it is in there pretty good. I personally pull on
the wires themselves, I risk yanking a wire out of the crimp in the socket, and
if I screw one up I am willing to repair it. Use your best judgment, the key is to
grab half of the wires and pull evenly on all of them at a 45 degree angle, to
raise one side of the plug first and then the other, it will not come out straight
up.

Once the power cord is removed from the motherboard and the two mounting
screws are off the power supply, grasp the heat sink on the power supply or
use the cord that was going to the motherboard to move it about a quarter
inch forward, this releases the power supply from the plastic tabs that hold it
down on the side opposite the screws. Now the front of the power supply can
be raised to allow the leading edge to clear the front of the case and it can
safely be pulled forward and removed.
Step 6 - Eleven screws on the motherboard
Remove them all and be careful not to scratch the surface of the board with
the driver.
Step 7 - Board removal
You will need to disconnect the yellow wires coming from the fan, power and
reset switches and also the connections to the USB game controller ports, the
USB daughter board itself can be left in place or removed. To remove the

motherboard lift the front to a 25-degree angle as shown in the picture it can
then be pulled forward and removed.
You should now have a pile of parts like this
To get to the power and reset buttons you will need to remove the front
faceplate. I have only done this by completely disassembling the case
including the fan and inner tray. By doing this bottom of the case becomes
flexible and you will have an easier time popping off the front. You will find
three tabs inside the case that are holding it, careful these are fragile. To get
the plate off you will need to loosen the three and both sides of the front plate
where it clips to the sides of the case (the side clips are the most difficult), all
three inside tabs need to be loosened simultaneously while popping off one
side or the other of the front plate. I think there is a possibility of doing this

without removing everything but for now complete disassembly is my best
advice. (Update, check out Removing Front Face Plate for directions)
Open a Controller
This should not even require a tutorial. By far the easiest fix. Quit being
annoyed and spend the 30 minutes it takes to clean them up. Nothing sucks
more than dieing because of a missed shot, jump, weapon switch, whatever
that you have to blame on the controller. So for those of you that need a little
encouragement here we go.
Start with a controller with sticky buttons.
Get the necessary tools, a Philips #1

Find the screw holes
Unscrew and remove them, flip the controller back so the screw holes are
down. Lift off the top cover.

The buttons will be falling all over the place, don't worry about that it goes
together easy.