Spiderbeam 160-18-4WTH Instructions for use

Spiderbeam 160m Vertical Model 160-18-4WTH
1160-18-4WTH Manual, Ver. 1.7 17-JULY-2021
Spiderbeam 160m Vertical
Model 160-18-4WTH
(shown here without radials)

Spiderbeam 160m Vertical Model 160-18-4WTH
2160-18-4WTH Manual, Ver. 1.7 17-JULY-2021
VERTICAL CONSTRUCTION GUIDE
Ver. 1.7

Spiderbeam 160m Vertical Model 160-18-4WTH
3160-18-4WTH Manual, Ver. 1.7 17-JULY-2021
We strongly suggest reading this entire manual BEFORE beginning to work.
CHAPTER CONTENTS PAGE
1.0 Description and Theory 5
1.1 Antenna Description 5
1.2 Required Space 5
1.3 Material Description 6
2.0 Construction 7
2.1 Pole Preparation 7
2.1.1 Tips for Clamp Set Assembly 7
2.2 Wooden Base Stake Preparation and Installation 8
2.3 Attaching the Pole to the Base Stake 8
2.4 Raising the Pole for the First Time 9
2.4.1 Raising and Clamping the Pole Segments 9
2.4.2 Using the Optional Guy Belt Set 10
2.4.3 Using 6mm Rope Stubs instead of Guy Belts 10
2.5 Mounting the Radial Connection Box 11
2.6 Measuring and Cutting Ropes and Wires 12
2.6.1 Table of Measurements 12
2.6.2 Cutting Wire and Ropes 13
2.7 Preparing the Radials 13
2.7.1 Preparing Radial Wires 13
2.8 Preparing the Top-Hat 14
2.8.1 Preparing Top-Hat Wires 15
2.8.2 Connecting the PVDF Monofil Line to the 2nd Top-Hat Insulator 16
2.8.3 High Power Option (>1kW) 17

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CHAPTER CONTENTS PAGE
3.0 Installation 18
3.1 Installing the Radiator and Top-Hats 18
3.1.1 Mounting the 4 Top-Hat wires and Vertical Radiator Wire to the Pole 18
3.1.2 Connecting the Vertical Radiator Wire to the Top-Hat Wires 19
3.1.3 Running the Vertical Radiator Wire down the Pole 19
3.1.4 Raising the Pole to its full Height 20
3.1.4.1 Guy Belt Method 23
3.1.4.2 Short Rope Stubs Method 23
3.2 Special Instructions for Erecting the Pole in Windy Conditions 23
3.3 Fastening the Top-Hats to their Ground Stakes 24
3.4 Adjusting Guy ropes and Top-Hat Lines 24
3.5 Installing the Radial Network 25
3.5.1 Installing Ground-Mounted Radials 25
4.0 Tuning the Antenna 26
4.1 Tuning Theory and Methodology 26
4.1.1 It’s time to Tune 27
5.0 Appendix 28
5.1 Appendix A: Materials and Tools List 28
5.1.1 Material included in the kit 28
5.1.2 Other required material (supplied by user) 29
5.1.3 Optional Spiderbeam Material 29
5.1.4 Recommended Tools (Supplied by User) 29
5.2 Appendix B: Preparing Kevlar Rope 29
5.3 Appendix C: Knots 31
Contact: Adress / Email to the Spiderbeam Tech Support 32

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1.0 Description and Theory
1.1 Antenna Description
The Spiderbeam Model 160-18-4WTH is a base-fed, [electrical] quarter wavelength vertical
antenna built on a Spiderbeam 18 meter-high telescoping fiberglass pole. It uses 4 top-hat
loading wires to reduce the antenna’s physical height by electrically lengthening the antenna.
This antenna is very easy to build, but does require tuning after it has been erected. It is not
plug and play. Tuning is accomplished by adjusting wire lengths.
Despite being less than 1/8 wavelength in overall height, the Spiderbeam 160-18-4WTH delivers
performance that is very close to that of a full-size vertical antenna on 160m –provided you
have adequate space for proper installation of the top-hat wires and radial network.
1.2 Required Space
The space required for this antenna is 35m (115’) by 35m, or 1225 sq. meters (~13,000 sq. ft.).
This area should be square, not rectangular. Minor deviations from this will not cause too much
loss in performance. If you have more space, take advantage of it by placing the ground stakes
supporting the top-hat wires farther away from the pole.
The perfect installation would have many wires used for the top hat, and they would all be
mounted in a horizontal plane at the top of the antenna. In real life installations, this is not
possible. A more practical installation will be one with 4 wires sloping to stakes in the ground at
some distant point away from the antenna (typically 25m).
The antenna itself consists of 3 electrical components: the vertical segment of the radiator; the
top-hat segment of the radiator; and a good set of ground-mounted radials. The physical length
of the vertical segment of the radiator is limited by the.
usablelength of the fiberglass pole, which is about 2.
meters less than its physical length. The top-hat wires.
must. always be the same length and equally spaced.
around the pole. Their physical length is determined by.
three factors:
The number of wires used in the top-hat.
The angle of the top-hat wire to the mast.
The ground characteristics at the location.

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The more wires used for the top-hat, the shorter the wires must be and the better the radiation
symmetry of the omni-directional radiation pattern.
The lower the angle of the top-hat wires to the pole, the longer they must be. Every attempt
should be made to keep the angle of the slope of these wires as high as possible - the closer to
being horizontal, the better the antenna will work. This is accomplished by placing the ground
stakes supporting the top-hat wires as far away from the pole as possible (typically 25m).
Ground characteristics at the installation QTH are a given and cannot be easily improved. You
have to accept what you have and realize that this is one of the reasons that we cannot specify
an exact length for the top-hat wires. These wires usually must be adjusted to compensate for
variances in ground characteristics.
The ground-mounted radial network consists typically of 16 radials. In portable installations, as
little as 8 ground mounted radials has been shown to give excellent results, but more is better.
For more information on the deployment of radials and its impact on performance, we recommend
reading the excellent article by Rudy Severns (N6LF), in the December 2010 issue of QST. This
article summarizes the information put forth by Rudy in a series of 7 articles for QEX magazine.
1.3 Material Description:
It is of utmost importance to keep the material used near the top of the pole as lightweight as
possible, yet strong enough to endure the severe winter conditions that prevail during prime low-
band activity.
The Spiderbeam 160-18-4WTH is built with high quality, lightweight but strong material:
The vertical radiator wire is made of Spiderbeam CQ-532 wire. This is AWG-18 stranded
Copper-weld wire, with ultraviolet-resistant polyethylene insulation. The wire itself has
1.1 mm diameter, with an OD of 2.2mm. Its breaking strength is 50 kg.
The top-hat wire is made of DXW-UL wire. This is stranded copper wire, interwoven with
multiple strands of Kevlar rope, which gives it extra strength. It has ultraviolet-resistant
polyethylene insulation.
The top-hat guy rope is made of PVDF Monofil line. This 1mm diameter line is ultraviolet-
resistant and very durable. Its light weight and good resistance to icing make it optimal for
this use. This looks like normal fishing line, but is much higher quality.
The insulators are also made of lightweight polyethylene, are ultraviolet-resistant and very
strong. Despite the low RF current in the top-hat wires, expect very high voltage. As a
consequence, we use 2 “Spiderbeam special insulators”in each top-hat line. For high
power, use 3 insulators in each Top-Hat line. Do not substitute other insulators.
The Spiderbeam Radial Connection Box is purpose built for connecting the antenna’s coax,
radiator, and radials. It is also available as a separate option for other use.

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The guy ropes are made with Polyester (PE)-covered Kevlar. The Kevlar is very strong and
the PE outer jacket is UV-resistant. To reduce point pressure which could damage the pole,
do not tie the Kevlar rope directly to the pole. Instead, tie it to short strips of thick 6mm
Polyester rope (provided in the kit) and tie it to the pole. Even better, use the optional Guy
Belt set for the pole.
The wire for the radials is not included in the kit and must be sourced locally. It may be
copper enamel wire for temporary installations, but should be insulated for long-term or
permanent installations. For top band you will need a lot of wire. The total amount
required depends on the number of radials used and the lengths chosen.
2.0 Construction
Before beginning construction, we highly recommend erecting the 18m fiberglass pole at least
one time to familiarize yourself with the physical characteristics of the pole. This will avoid any
unpleasant surprises later. It will also assure that the clamp set is properly adjusted before you
erect the antenna at its final location.
Most of the construction is accomplished during installation. Prior to installation, you can pre-
cut your wires and ropes but, in most cases, due to the long lengths used, it is easier to cut
them in the field than in the house.
FORMULA FOR SUCCESS: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE.
2.1 Pole Preparation
It is very important to erect the pole at least once prior to beginning final installation.
For permanent installations, you should cut drainage holes into the rubber base
cap of the pole.
See: www.dj0ip.de/spiderbeam/fiberglass-spiderpole/base-cap/
If you have not already done so, assemble the clamp set (included with the pole),
according to the instructions which came with the pole. These instructions are also available
from Spiderbeam as a PDF. Label each clamp with a permanent white marker.
2.1.1 Tips for Clamp Set Assembly
The Spiderbeam 18m Pole consists of 12 telescoping segments. The segments are counted from
1 to 12, with segment #1 being the bottom, thickest segment. There are 11 clamps included
with the clamp set. Each clamp will be installed on the bottom of its pole segment, resting on
the segment below it. There is no clamp for pole segment #1. Counting begins with clamp #2.
We highly recommend labeling each clamp with the number of the pole segment on which it is
to be installed. To label the clamps, use a marker with white, permanent ink (e.g. “Eding" or
“Sharpie”). If you do not have one of these markers available, find an alternate way of labeling

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these clamps. This will make installation much easier and reduce the possibility of error. Worst
case, just tape a piece of masking tape to each clamp and label it. This will last long enough for
the assembly process.
See: https://www.dj0ip.de/spiderbeam/fiberglass-spiderpole/clamp-sets/
2.2 Wooden Base Stake Preparation and Installation
The wooden base stake is not included in the 160-18-4WTH kit and must be sourced locally.
The purpose of the base stake is to hold the pole in place and keep it from slipping or sliding
under the pressure of the wind. The guy ropes are the pole’s main horizontal support, not the
base stake.
Stake Dimensions: Approximately 5cm x 5cm x 150cm. (2” x 2” x 5’)
Preparation: it is advisable to slightly carve a point on the bottom of the stake using a sharp
pocket knife. CAUTION: WORK CAREFULLY AND DO NOT CUT YOURSELF.
Identify the location for the 18m pole, and using a sledge hammer, pre-drill a hole in the ground
for the installation of the wooden stake by pounding a 30mm to 40mm steel pipe about 75cm
into the ground. Remove this pipe, insert the base stake into the hole and pound it into the hole
with a sledge hammer.
PLEASE TAKE CARE TO KEEP THIS STAKE PERFECTLY VERTICAL
2.3 Attaching the Pole to the Base Stake
DO NOT USE COMPRESSION
CLAMPS FOR THIS PURPOSE!
Compression clamps, unless used together with
protective rubber strips like the pole’s clamp set uses,
will cause damage to the pole. Instead, use 2 or 3 straps to secure the pole to the wooden base
stake. See the example on the right. These straps are readily available from Spiderbeam, or in
any camping supplies shop. They are used for securing things like sleeping bags to back packs.
When you tighten the straps, take care that their metal adjustment head is resting on
the wooden stake, not directly on the fiberglass pole.
If you cannot find these straps, you may substitute 6mm Polyester rope:
Cut two or three pieces of 6mm Dacron rope about 60cm long and prepare their ends by
heating them with a cigarette lighter. CAUTION: RISK OF BURNS

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2.4 Raising the Pole for the First Time
UNLESS YOU ARE VERY TALL, YOU SHOULD USE A SHORT STEP LADDER.
Note: it is helpful to wear very thin leather gloves when erecting of the pole. This not only
protects your hands; it also gives you a firmer grip on the pole and reduces hand slippage.
PLEASE ERECT THE POLE ONE TIME WITHOUT ANY WIRES ATTACHED.
During the raising of the pole, you will install and adjust the 11 clamps. All clamps will be
slipped over the top of the pole before beginning to erect it.
If you are using the optional guy belt set, you must insert the guy belts in the proper
.sequence, in between the clamps. Read 2.4.2 *before* installing the clamp set in 2.4.1.
If you are using 6mm Polyester rope instead of the guy belt set, read 2.4.3 *before*
.installing the clamp set in 2.4.1.
2.4.1 Raising and Clamping the Pole Segments
Carefully raise the inner-most pole segment (segment #12) about 30
to 40 cm (12-16”) and temporarily tape it to the segment below it,
using electrical insulation tape. To accomplish this, pull the top
segment fully out until it pulls the next segment (segment #11) with
it. While holding segment #11 with one hand lower segment #12
back into #11 until only about 30 or 40 cm are sticking out. Tape
with electrical tape.
You will now slide the entire clamp set, beginning with the largest
clamp first (clamp #2), over the top of the pole. DON’T FORGET to
insert the optional guy belts if you plan to use them. Do this as described below.
First slide clamp #2 over the top of the pole; next slide the clamp #3 over the pole.
Continue sliding the remaining clamps in ascending order over the pole until all 11
clamps are in place. DON’T FORGET to insert the optional guy belts if you plan to use
them. Do this as described below.
Holding the top of segment #12 with one hand, remove the electrical tape with the
other hand.
Next, pull segment #12 (the top segment) out from segment #11 (directly below it),
extending it as far as it will go.
Secure these two segments together by holding segment 11 near the top with one hand,
and segment 12 near the bottom with the other hand; pull apart with both hands as you
twist your hands in opposite directions. This engages the friction lock.
Finally, slide clamp #12 into position, such that it sits fully on pole segment #12, but
resting against the top of pole segment #11. (It must not slide over segment #11).
Pull segment #11 out from segment #10; and as above, pull and twist to secure it.

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Secure clamp #11 at the bottom of pole segment #11, resting on the top of pole
segment #10.
Continue exactly like this until all of the pole segments are fully extended and secure.
2.4.2 Using the Optional Guy Belts
Whenever possible, please use the optional guy belt set, available from the Spiderbeam Online
Shop. These belts enable guying the pole in 3 or 4 directions (4 directions STRONGLY
recommended), and reduce the point pressure exerted on the pole by the guy ropes.
Each guy belt will mount to a specific pole segment, resting on top of that segment’s clamp (at
the bottom).
The belt with the larger hole mounts at the bottom of pole segment # 5, so insert the
belt between clamps #5 and #6.
The belt with the smaller hole mounts at the bottom of pole
segment # 9, so insert the belt between clamps #9 and #10.
TIP: Although you can tighten the clamps using a standard screw
driver, it is much easier and faster to use a 7mm nut driver or a
ratchet with a 7mm socket.
DON’T FORGET TO INSERT THESE BELTS BETWEEN THE CLAMPS
2.4.3 Using 6mm Polyester Rope Stubs (instead of Guy Belts).
Cut 4 pieces of 6mm Polyester rope, each 80cm (32”)
long . (Photo on the right shows 1 piece).
Tie two pieces of this rope to the pole, using a square
knot, just above the clamp at the bottoms of segments
#5 and #10. Let the ends hang down. See Appendix C.
The Kevlar guy ropes will be fastened later to the 4 rope
stubs at each level using a sheet-bend knot. .
See Appendix C.
This completes the Pole Preparation Section.
Please loosen each clamp except clamp #12, beginning with clamp #2 (the lower clamp)
and carefully drop the pole back down, leaving only the top section (#12) extended so
that the clamps (and belts) do not fall off.
If you encounter stuck segments when retracting the pole, see:
https://www.dj0ip.de/spiderbeam/fiberglass-spiderpole/stuck-segments/

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2.5. Mounting the Radial Connection Box:
In 2016 Spiderbeam replaced the big bulky aluminum Radial Connection Plate with this smaller
Radial Connection Box (RCB-1). The RCB-1 is easier to mount to any size fiberglass mast and has
plenty of connectivity for radials.
The picture on the right shows 8 radials, 4 radials
per side. In this example we have connected 2
radials per solder lug.
For more connectivity you may solder up to 4
radial wires to each solder lug and you may
connect up to 10 solder lugs per side –giving
you a maximum connectivity for 80 radials.
Should you require more radials, contact
Spiderbeam for a Radial Expansion Adapter.
NOTE: The RCB-1 and radials will be mounted
AFTER the pole is fully erected and properly
guyed. (Paragraph 3.5, page 25)
Proceed as follows:
Fasten the pole to the wooden base stake, pulling the top strap tight, but leaving the
bottom strap loose. This will enable you to pull the pole a few centimeters away from
the stake for installing the radial connection box (RCB-1).
Place the RCB-1 against the pole near the bottom, approximately 10cm (4 in.) above the
ground.
Fasten by wrapping a large black (UV-Resistant) Wire-Tie around the RCB-1 and the
fiberglass pole, being careful not to wrap around the wooden stake. If you don’t have a
large enough wire-tie, use two medium-size wire-ties.
Now you can secure the Spiderpole to the wooden stake by tightening the lower strap.
Connect radial sets to both sides of the box. (Now, or at the end of the installation.)
oFor portable installations, fasten using Wing-Nuts, Washers, and Lock Washers.
oFor permanent installation, secure with standard Nuts, Washers and Lock Washers.

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2.6 Measuring and Cutting Ropes and Wires
Measurements that need to be exact should be measured with a long tape measure, rather
than with a folding ruler. By measuring once or twice with a long tape measure, rather than
multiple times with the folding ruler, you reduce the possibility of error.
The cut length of the vertical radiator wire is not critical down to the last millimeter, because it
is intentionally cut too long and will be shortened later during the tuning process.
The cut length of the top-hat wires is not critical down to the last millimeter, because they may
also be adjusted in the field when tuning. This will depend on the ground characteristics of your
location.
The final field adjustment of the top-hat wires is critical. Even though you may have to adjust
their lengths a few times, you must keep the length of all top-hat wires equal.
FORMULA FOR SUCCESS: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE.
2.6.1 Table of Measurements
MEASUREMENTS
MATERIAL
QTY
LENGTH
CUT
STAKE DISTANCE
FROM THE POLE
Radiator Vertical Wire
CQ-532
1
~17.5m
18m
N/A
Top-Hat Wires
DXW-UL
4
~12.5m
15m
N/A
T-H Extension Rope
PVDF Monofil
4
~18m
20m
25m
Upper Guy Rope
2mm Kevlar
4
~14-15m
17m
7-9m
Lower Guy Rope
2mm Kevlar
4
~10-12m
14m
7-9m
Total CQ-532
~
~
~
18m
~
Total DXW-UL
~
~
~
60m
~
Total PVDF Monofil Line
~
~
~
80m
~
Total Rope with 4 dir. Guys
~
~
~
124m
~
Note: The top-hat wires are tied to different ground stakes than the guy ropes.

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2.6.2 Cutting the Wire and Ropes
It is up to you whether you choose to cut the wires and ropes before going to the field, or cut
them in the field. Due to their lengths, it is usually easier to cut them in the field.
Radiator Wire: Cut 18m of CQ-532 wire
Top-Hat Wire: Cut 4 pieces of DXW-UL wire, each 15m long
T.- H. Extension Ropes: Cut 4 pieces of PVDF Monofil Line, each 20m long
Upper Guy Ropes: Cut 4 pieces of 2mm Kevlar rope, each 17m long*
Lower Guy Ropes: Cut 4 pieces of 2mm Kevlar rope, each 14m long*
*Prepare the Kevlar rope ends as described in APPENDIX B (5.2.)
2.7 Preparing the Radials
The Spiderbeam 160-18-4WTH was designed to be easy to install, using 16 ground-mounted
radials. Using any number between 8 and 24 will give rewarding results. If you use less,
performance will be reduced. If you use significantly more radials, the small gain in radiation
efficiency will be offset by losses in the coax due to higher SWR. We recommend 16 radials as
the “Sweet Spot” for this antenna.
As pointed out earlier, for more information on the deployment of radials and their impact on
performance, we recommend reading the excellent article by Rudy Severns (N6LF), in the
December 2010 issue of QST. This article summarizes the information put forth by Rudy in a series
of 7 articles for QEX magazine.
2.7.1 Preparing the Radial Wires
The following instructions are based on the assumption that you are using 16 ground-mounted
radials as recommended. If you use more, or fewer, please adjust the numbers yourself.
The ground-mounted radials should each be between ⅛and ¼wavelength long (20 to 40m).
The length is not critical, but the number of radials is, with more being better.
Note: 16 radials ⅛wavelength long is better than 8 radials ¼ wavelength long.
Usually, the length of each is determined by the space available to run the radials. 25 to 30m is
a good length to target.
Due to the length of the radial wires, this work is best performed in the field, directly
where the radials will be installed. You may choose to do this in advance, or do it later
during the installation.
You will need 320 to 640m of wire depending on the radial length, eight M6 cable solder
lugs, a crimping tool or pliers, a soldering iron 60w or greater, and liquid electrical tape.

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EXAMPLE: 16 RADIAL WIRES WILL BE PREPARED IN GROUPS OF 2 (or 4).
Cut 2 (or 4) equal length radial wires, each 20 to 40m long. (2 wires shown)
Remove 2cm (¾”) of insulation from one end of each wire.
Splice the wires together by twisting them as tight as you can.
Trim the splice to 1.5cm with wire cutters.
DO NOT SOLDER BEFORE CRIMPING.
Cut a piece of heat-shrink tubing (9/3mm) 2cm (¾”) long and slide it over
the splice and 2 (or 4) wires.
Insert the splice into a M6 cable solder lug and crimp the lug
using a crimp tool or pliers.
Now solder the wires inside of the solder lug.
Weather proof the 2 (or 4) wires at the lug with 2cm of heat-shrink tubing, and seal the
other end with “liquid electrical tape”, or similar. You may also use your XYL’s nail
polish for this. If using nail polish, apply 2 or 3 coats, allowing to dry between coats.
This completes the preparation of the first 2 (or 4) ground-mounted radials.
Now prepare 7 more sets of 2-radials (or 3 more sets of 4 radials) exactly as you have
done above.
This completes the preparation of the 16 ground-mounted radials.
2.8 Preparing the Top-Hats
For space reasons, it is probably easier to prepare the top hat wires in the field.
You will need to solder at least one connection in the field. This
will require a soldering iron with at least 60w.
You will need 4 small weights to attach to the ends of the top-
hat lines to keep them under tension during the installation of
the antenna. We recommend large “lead sinkers” like fishermen
use to weight their fishing lines. A 4-oz. to 5-oz. (112 to 140 gr.)
sinker is heavy enough. You may substitute with something
else, but do not use heavier weights.

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2.8.1 Preparing the Top-Hat Wires
We will prepare the top-hat wires “two at a time”: (next page)
Grasp two of the top-hat wires about 15cm below one of their ends, such that the two
ends are the same length above your hand.
Keeping the wires parallel, tie a simple “Overhand Knot” in the two wires, about 10cm
from their ends. Pull this knot as tight as you can.
Wearing gloves, grasp the two wires about 30cm.
below the knot and wrap two turns of wires around.
your hand, so that you can keep the wire from.
slipping. Then using pliers pull the end of each wire.
individually until the knot is as tight as you can get.
it. See picture →→→→→→
You should have about 10cm (4”) of wire extending
above the knot (±1cm). Confirm.
Now prepare the other two top-hat wires exactly like you prepared these two.
Next you will connect an insulator to the other end of each wire:
Insert one end of one of these two DXW-UL top-hat wires through the hole in the end of
an insulator, exiting through the slot in the middle of the insulator.
Pull about 2.4m of wire through the hole and out the slot, then fold it back about 2.4m
such that the distance between the knot and the insulator is 12.5m.
Now run the end of the wire through the hole a.
second time and pull it tight.
Fold back the rest of the wire onto itself twisting.
the excess wire several times around the longer.
portion of the wire as you fold it back. →→
Measure the distance again between the knot and the insulator. It should be exactly
12.5m. *** THIS IS THE MOST CRITICAL MEASUREMENT OF THE ANTENNA. ***
Secure the twisted wires with two small black UV-resistant wire-ties, one near the
insulator and one near the end of the wire.
Now prepare the other top-hat wire exactly like the first pair.
Make sure the distance between the knot and insulators is the same on both wires.
This completes assembly of the first pair of top-hat wires for now.
Now prepare the 2nd pair of top-hat wires exactly as the first pair.
The final quality control is to hold all 4 wires in parallel and compare the distance
between the knot and the insulators. Make sure they are all the same length.

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2.8.2 Connecting the PVDF Monofil Line to the 2 Top-Hat Insulator of each Top-Hat Wire:
The top-hat wires have very little RF current in them, but very high voltage. It is advisable to
use two insulators in each top-hat, with a short piece of PVDF Monofil line between them.
PLEASE DO NOT SUBSTITUTE BIGGER INSULATORS !
When using top-hat wires with this pole, there are THREE critical factors:
WEIGHT, WEIGHT & WEIGHT
Note: When pulling the knots in PVDF Monofil line tight, it is advisable to wear thin leather
gloves (or other work gloves) to keep the line from cutting into your hands. It is also advisable
to use pliers to pull on the short end of the line when pulling knots tight, but:
IMPORTANT:
DO NOT HOLD ANY PART OF THE LINE WITH PLIERS, that will later be under stress.
For each of the 4 top-hat wires:
Cut a piece of PVDF Monofil line 40cm (16”) long and insert one end through the free
hole of the top-hat insulator, pulling it out through the middle slot in the insulator.
Tie a large knot in the PVDF Monofil line about 10cm from this end. Tie any kind of knot
you like; just make sure it does not slip back through the hole. You may want to use
pliers to hold the short end while pulling tight. Now, holding the insulator, pull the
longer end away from the insulator, pulling the line tight. The knot will now rest inside
the slot of the insulator. Do not trim the excess line!
Insert the free end of the PVDF line through the hole in the end of a new insulator,
extending it out of the slot.
Tie a large knot in this end about 10cm from the end. Again use pliers to hold the small
end and pull it tight. Do not use pliers on the line between the knots.
Now pull the two insulators away from each other. This new knot should slip inside the
slot of the 2nd insulator.
The two insulators will be about 16 to 18 cm (6 to 7 in.) apart, but this distance is NOT
critical.
The final step is to fasten a PVDF Monofil line to the free hole of the second insulator:
Insert one end of an 18m piece of PVDF Monofil line through the free end of the second
insulator.

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Tie a large knot about 10cm from its end and pull it tight, using a pliers to hold the short
end.
Pull the long end away from this insulator, pulling the knot inside the insulator’s slot.
When completed, each top-hat should look like this
o
This completes the first of 4 top-hat lines.
Repeat the procedure above for the next three top-hats:
Mount the insulators and PVDF line exactly the same as above.
This completes the preparation of all four top-hats.
TIP: Temporarily tie the far end of the Monofil line to a small weight. We use heavy “lead
sinkers” (140 gr. / (4 or 5 oz.) weights) sourced from a fisherman’s supply shop for this purpose.
This should be just enough weight that it applies some tension to the line as you later begin to
raise the pole with the antenna. Don’t use too much weight.
2.8.3 HIGH POWER OPTION (>1kW)
If you plan to run more than 1 kilowatt, you must take special precaution. You will need 3
insulators per Top-Hat Wire instead of 2 and you must use 1mm Kevlar rope between the
insulators instead of PVDF Monofil. Build it exactly as described in 2.8.2, but use 3 insulators
with 1mm Kevlar rope between them.

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3.0 INSTALLATION
The hardest part of the entire assembly and installation process is
"keeping the wires and ropes from tangling.”
We recommend laying each rope or wire out on the ground in its approximate end
position. It is advantageous to temporarily use small weights (as previously described)
to keep some tension on the lines when they are lying on the ground while erecting the
pole.
PLEASE READ SECTION 3.2 (WIND) BEFORE CONTINUING WITH 3.1
3.1 Installing the Radiator and Top-Hat
In this section you will attach all wires to the pole, dress the wires, splice and solder them
together. You will need electrical tape, a large 8mm UV-Resistant cable-tie, a soldering iron,
60w or more, and liquid electrical tape (or similar) to insulate the connection.
3.1.1 Mounting the 4 Top-Hat Wires and Vertical Radiator Wire to the Pole
You will use a low-tech method for attaching
the wires to the pole. It is very simple,
lightweight and effective.
Note: the pole segments are much smaller
than they appear in this sketch. In this sketch
the pole segments were drawn over-size to
enable showing the details of the dressing of
the wires.
Begin:
Wrap about 5 or 6 layers of good quality
black UV-resistant electrical tape around
segment 11 of the mast, about 5 cm
from its top.
Tie an “Overhand Knot” 10cm from one
end of the CQ-532 vertical wire.
Following the diagram in the picture, place the vertical wire (CQ-532) and the two pairs
of top-hat wires (DXW-UL) against the top of segment #11, such that the 3 knots are just
above the tape.

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Wrap an 8mm (wide) heavy duty UV-resistant wire-tie around the layer of tape and
wires, and pull it only slightly tight, TAKING CARE TO ASSURE THAT THE WIRE-TIE IS
SEATED IN THE CENTER OF THE TAPE (as shown in the picture).
Carefully pull all of the wires downward until their knots are seated directly on top of the
wire-tie. Make sure the wire-tie is still centered on the tape.
Now pull the wire-tie very tight, compressing the electric tape. Cut off the excess stub of
the wire-tie.
Wrap several layers of black electrical tape over the wire-tie. This will improve its
resistance to UV. (This step is not shown in the picture).
3.1.2 Connecting the Vertical Radiator Wire to the Top-Hat Wires
Measure 4cm (1½”) above each knot and cut off the rest of the wire.
Remove 2cm (¾”) of insulation from the end of all 5 wires.
Splice the 4 top-hat wires and the radiator wire together by twisting them tight.
Solder this connection using a 60w (or larger) soldering iron.
After the solder has dried and cooled off, you can cut off some of the excess, leaving
about 1cm of exposed soldered wire.
Finally, insulate the remaining 1cm of exposed, soldered wire with liquid electrical
tape, or with whatever your favorite similar insulating substance is. If you do not
have anything like this, then tape this connection with standard electrical insulating
tape. (BTW, the XYL’s red fingernail polish works well as a substitute!)
3.1.3 Running the Vertical Radiator wire down the Pole
Make sure the 4 top-hat wires are out of the way:
Position the 4 top-hat wires 90° apart and pull the far ends away from the pole until
there is a bit of tension on the wires.
The temporary weights on the ends of the Monofil line should maintain the tension
and keep these wires out of the way while pushing the pole segments up.
The vertical wire should spiral gently down the pole with about 1 turn per meter (i.e., 2 turns
per pole segment). As you approach the bottom of the pole, about 2m (6’) from the bottom of
the pole begin wrapping the turns much closer together, about 10cm (4”) spacing between
turns, forming a stretched-out coil. The spacing is not critical. When you reach the RCB-1,
temporarily tape the wire to the pole with electrical tape to hold it in place.
Cut off the excess wire (if any), leaving about 3cm excess for connecting to the connector of the
RCB-1.

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Finally, you will remove 3cm of insulation from the end of the vertical radiator wire and make
the connection to the RCB-1.
It is almost certain that you will have to shorten this length later, so do not bother to tighten it
real tight for now and DO NOT INSULATE IT YET.
Although this sounds very easy, don’t forget:
You have to do this while raising the pole one section at a time.
As you raise the pole, you will also have to attach the upper and lower 4 guy
ropes at their correct guying levels.
Don’t worry; it’s not difficult. Just take your time, being careful as you work.
Note the following (but for now, no action is necessary):
If you opted for the guy belt method, you will attach the ropes to the guy belts using
a “bowline” knot.
If you opted for the 6mm Polyester rope-stub method, you will have tied two rope
stubs to the pole securing each with a “square knot”, such that their knots are 90°
apart. Later you will tie the four 2mm Kevlar guy ropes to the rope stubs using a
“sheet bend” knot, as described in paragraph 2.4.3 on page 10.
3.1.4 Raising the pole to its full Height
In this step, we will perform the work described above in section 3.1.3.
CAUTION: IF IT IS WINDY, SEE SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS IN SECTION 3.2
The pole is raised exactly the same way as it was raised in 2.4.1 –one segment at a time. The
segments are pulled and twisted in opposite directions to friction-lock in place. Tighten clamps.
After each segment is secure, be sure to rotate he pole back to the position it was in before you
began raising it.
Otherwise, you will end up with the top-hat wires twisted several times around the pole.
After securing a section in place, as you run the wire down the pole, you will wrap the
vertical wire about two turns around each segment until near the bottom.
You may have to slightly loosen the two straps (belts) fastening the pole to the wooden
stake, to be able to rotate the pole. Loosen by only 1cm (⅛”).
Once again it is advantageous to use a small step-ladder when performing this work.