SteppIR 4 Element Yagi User manual

SteppIR Antennas
23831 S.E. Tiger MT. RD. - Issaquah, WA 98027
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone] Toll Free: 866.783.7747
Web: www.steppir.com
SteppIR 4 Element Yagi Installation Instructions
Yagi zDipole zVertical
(Patent Pending)
6WHSS,5TM
SteppIR™ 4 element Yagi at Dayton Hamvention, 2003

Table of Contents 2
Pre-Assembly Tips 3
Parts List 5 - 6
Assembling the Antenna 6 - 18
STEP 1: Build the Boom 6
STEP 2: Connect the Boom-to-Mast Plate to the Boom 8
STEP 3: Secure the Element Housing Units to the Element-to-Boom Brackets 9
STEP 4: Connect the Required Wiring 11
STEP 5: Attach the Wiring Enclosure and Control Cable to the Boom 13
STEP 6: Prepare the Fiberglass Element Support Tubes 14
STEP 7: Attach the Fiberglass Element Support Tubes to the Element Housing Units 15
STEP 8: Install the Optional 6 Meter Passive Element (If ordered) 16
STEP 9: Install the Boom Truss Support Assembly 17
Upgrading your controller (for customers upgrading from a 3 element yagi only) 19
Topic Page
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Do not connect the antenna controller
box or apply power to the antenna until
instructed to do so. Otherwise, you may
upset factory calibrations and possibly
damage components.
Version 0805-2003

PRE-ASSEMBLY TIPS
Tools: To build the antenna you will need a 1/2”, 9/16”, 7/16” and 3/8” wrench and/or socket drive. A
3/8” nut driver is handy for attaching the element housings to the boom brackets, and a Phillips screw driver
will be necessary. A center punch can be helpful when aligning mounting holes. If you ordered the 6 me-
ter elements, you will also want to have a 5/16” wrench or socket (or a pair of pliers). You will also want to
have a 20 foot tape measure and knife or scissors. The assistance of a friend will significantly reduce the
time required to build the antenna.
Assembly Instructions: It is a good idea to make and use a working copy of the Assembly Instructions.
You can download a copy from our web site and use it while building your SteppIR™. This will prevent
the original from becoming torn, stained or otherwise mutilated when assembling the antenna. It is nice to
retain a brand new set of instructions.
Users Manual: You do not need the User’s Manual while assembling the antenna. Putting it inside the
shack right away will help keep it in brand new condition.
Work Surfaces: Select an area large enough (32 ft x 38 ft) to accommodate building the antenna. A sheet
of plywood 4’x 8’ and two saw horses provide a comfortable working height and facilitate assembly of the
antenna. Alternatively, any clean outdoor flat surface such as a large patio or driveway will work. It’s a
good idea to keep all parts close at hand and off dirt or wet grass to prevent them from becoming fouled
with foreign matter during the assembly process.
A Word About Taping: Stretching tape in order to break it at the end of a wrap is a bad idea. Sooner or
later stretched ends come loose. Tape wraps should always be started and ended with un-stretched tape and
cut it with a knife or scissors at the end of the wrap.
Inventory: Confirm that all parts specified in the Parts List on page 4 are present before beginning. If any-
thing is missing or there is a problem, contact the factory right away.
Abbreviations: Throughout the instructions you will find four three-letter acronyms that are used to shorten
sentences. They are simply the first three letters of the subject phrase, and are explained in the instructions
as you encounter them. They are:
EHU Element Housing Unit
EHT Element Housing Tube
EST Element Support Tube
FCC Flexible Connection Coupler
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Description QTY
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Assembly Instructions 1
Operators Manual 1
SteppIR™ antenna controller 1
Power supply for controller¹ 1
Aluminum boom sections² 7
Boom to mast plate 11.5” x 11.5” 2
Driven element housing unit 1
Passive element housing unit³ 3
Green fiberglass element support tubes 8
Flexible connection couplings 8
16 Conductor control cable, 22 AWG shielded41
OPTIONAL: 6 meter passive element 2
OPTIONAL: Transceiver interface w/ cable (interface is already installed in controller) 1
BOOM ASSEMBLY PACK
1/4-20 x 3” Bolt 8
1/4-20 x 2.50” Bolt 2
1/4-20 Nylock nut 10
2-1/2” U Bolt w/ two 3/8” nuts and lock washers 2
2” Extended leg U Bolt w/ 5/16” nut and lock washer 4
TRUSS ASSEMBLY PACK
1/8” Phillystran Kevlar® guy wire 26 ft
2” U Bolt w/ two 5/16” nuts and two lock washes 1
5/16” Nylock nuts 2
2” flat plate with poles 1
3/16” Wire clips, galvanized 8
3/16” Thimble, galvanized 4
1/4” x 4” Turnbuckle, galvanized 2
5/16” x 4” Eye bolt w/ nut and lock washer 3
3/8” x 3” full threaded bolt with lock washer and nut5(EZeye™ ) 1
PARTS LIST

PARTS LIST
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Description QTY 9
TERMINAL STRIP / EHU PACK
2” OD PVC tube with 2 end caps attached61
8 position terminal strip72
1 position ground strip71
#56 Stainless hose clamp 1
Blue packet of connector protector82
#10-32 x 3/4” Phillips screw w/ Nylock nut and flat washer (in own folded bag) 32
All weather electrical tape 2
20 ft Green silicone self curing wrap 2
¹ Includes two power cords; one AC and one attached 24 volt
² Element-to-boom brackets have been factory installed on 4 of the boom sections. Lengths consist of: two 1-3/4” x
48”; two 2”x72”; two 2.25”x48”; one 2.5”x72”)
³ Two reflectors and one director; each unit is identical
4Length as specified when ordering antenna; 25 pin DB-25P factory installed on one end
5EZeye™ is used to support the boom while connecting to mast plate, and for leveling of elements
6One cap has been glued in place. The other is attached but not glued
7 Packed inside the PVC tubing
8 Use this compound for protecting the control cable wires and a small amount for easing installation of flexible connec-
tion couplers

WORD OF CAUTION
Be Careful to avoid making contact with power lines or other potential hazards
when constructing, moving and installing the antenna, as you could be seriously in-
jured or even killed if a metal object comes in contact with high voltage.
ASSEMBLING THE ANTENNA
It is highly recommended that you read these Assembly Instructions in their entirety before assembling
the antenna. Doing so will provide you an overall idea of what needs to be done and helps avoid mak-
ing time-consuming mistakes. At a minimum, read the directions for each step before starting it.
Building your SteppIR™ is a straightforward process. It entails:
•Building the boom
•Connecting the boom-to-mast plate to the boom using the EZeye™
•Securing the element housing units to the element-to-boom brackets
•Connecting the required wiring
•Attaching the wiring enclosure and control cable to the boom
•Preparing the fiberglass element support tubes
•Attaching the fiberglass element support tubes to the element housing units
•Installing the optional 6m passive elements (if ordered)
•Installing the boom truss support assembly
STEP 1: Build the Boom
The boom is completely assembled and drilled at the factory to assure precision element alignment.
Pre-drilled holes are quite snug to align almost perfectly. If the holes are visibly out of alignment when
you are assembling the boom, you probably have the boom pieces put together in the wrong order - or
the section of booms without an element to boom bracket may need to be rotated 180 degrees. Each
boom piece has a number permanently scribed on it. Match each number with the exact same number
of a corresponding boom piece as shown in figure 1. Drawing 1 on the next page shows how each
boom section is numbered.
Figure 1
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Drawing 1 below shows the layout of the boom for assembly. Note that the lengths shown for each
boom piece are overall lengths, the actual finished length of the boom will be 32 feet. The paired num-
bers shown in the drawing are inscribed on each associated boom section during the manufacturing
process. Refer to graph 2 for selecting proper bolt sizes for each respective connection.
Joint Bolt Size QTY
1 1/4-20 x 2.50” w/ nylock nut 1*
2 1/4-20 x 3” w/nylock nut 2
3 1/4-20 x 3” w/ nylock nut 2
4 1/4-20 x 3” w/ nylock nut 2
5 1/4-20 x 3” w/ nylock nut 2
6 1/4-20 x 2.50” w/nylock nut 1*
*the second fastener at this joint is the 5/16” x 4” Eyebolt
used for the truss assembly (see page 17 )
Graph 2: Bolt Sizes Required for Assembling Boom
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Locate and position the seven sections of boom tubing, and the respective fasteners. Rub a
thin film of connector protector around the circumference of all male boom pieces BE-
FORE sliding the female sections over them (figure 2). Also, do not twist the aluminum
tubing excessively as that can cause binding. Assemble the boom by sliding the seven sec-
tions together in the order shown on the drawing 1 on the prior page. Insert the required bolts
into the holes and loosely attach them with the 1/4” nylock nuts. On the boom connections
numbered 1 and 6 (see drawing 1, prior page) one hole will be larger than the other. The
smaller hole is for the 1/4-20 x 2.50” bolt and nylock nut, the larger hole is for the 5/16” eye-
bolt that holds each end of the Kevlar truss material in place (figure 3). There is also a hole
for a third 5/16” x 4” eyebolt (used for the EZeye™ feature explained later) located at the
center point of the boom. Install this eyebolt with the nut and lock washer as shown in figure
4.
Now tighten the nuts on each bolt and eyebolt securely. Before continuing to the next step
verify that all nuts and bolts, including those installed at the factory, are securely tightened.
Note that, in some cases you may find it necessary to assist the bolts that you are installing by
“threading’ them with a wrench. Do NOT attempt to hammer them into place.
Figure 2
STEP 2: Connect the Boom-to-Mast Plate to the Boom
We are showing you this step now, even though in all likelihood this will be one of the last steps, as you
raise the finished antenna up to the tower. It is a good idea to use the mast plate and a temporary mast as
a means of supporting the antenna while assembling the elements, and to familiarize yourself with the
EZeye™ before you are up at the tower!
The mast plate consists of two identical pieces, each 11.5” x 11.5” x 3/16” thick. The mast plate has 21
pre-drilled holes (drawing 2). The 2” mast holes are used to secure the antenna to the mast on your
tower. The optional pilot holes are there in the event you are using a 2-1/4” mast. If you are using a 2”
mast, these holes are left unused. The 2-1/2” boom holes are used for attaching the boom to the mast
plate. The EZeye™ hole will be explained later in this section.
Figure 3
Figure 4
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Locate the two boom-to-mast plates and the 3/8” x 3” full threaded bolt, nut
and lock washer (figure 5). Insert the bolt through both portions of mast plate
and tighten (figure 6), be sure that all the remaining holes are lined up with
each other. Attach the mast plate to the mast using the four 2” U bolts with
saddles, lock washers and nuts (Figure 7). Tighten securely, then thread on an-
other 3/8” nut and a 3/8” flat washer. This represents the first part of the
EZeye™. Note: We are showing this step now, even though you may very well
be installing the mast plate to the mast on the tower as a last step in your proc-
ess.
Your antenna comes with our highly innovative EZeye™ system. This system
serves two purposes; The first is to allow you to “latch” the boom onto the mast
plate and secure it safely while you are attaching the 2-1/2” U-bolts with sad-
dles (figure 8). The second, is to allow you to level the elements before secur-
ing the U-bolts to the mast plate (figure 9). As an added benefit, the EZeye™
also prevents vertical movement of the elements in the event of high winds!
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8 Figure 9
Lift the boom so that the eyebolt in the middle rests on top of the EZeye™ threaded bolt (figure 8). This
bolt will support the full weight of the antenna, but as a safety precaution always leave the safety rope or
cable in place until you have secured the boom in place with the U-bolts. Place another 3/8” flat washer
after the eyebolt and then another 3/8” nut. Attach the 2-1/2” U-bolts, saddles and nuts loosely, and then
use two wrenches to “level” the elements as shown figure 9. When finished, securely tighten the nuts on
both U-bolts (figure 10).
Figure 10
STEP 3: Secure the Element Housing Units to the Element-to-Boom Brackets
Locate the 4 element housing units (EHUs). One of them will have an SO-239
coax connector (unless you ordered the optional “N” connector) below the gray
control cable (figure 11). This EHU is for the driven element.
The other three EHUs are for the reflector and directors (parasitic elements).
Each EHU has the same length control cable, you can trim them to length if you
desire, once they have been secured to the boom. All of the parasitic EHUs are
interchangeable in that it does not matter which one you use for the directors or
reflector. Observe that the olive green element housing tubes (EHTs) on the end
of each EHU appear to be uneven in length (figure 12). This is by design. They
are centered inside the housing.
Figure 11
Figure 12
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Proper EHU orientation is critical to operation of the antenna. Make sure they are installed on the
element-to-boom brackets exactly as shown in drawing 3 below (looking down on boom).
Refer to figures 13, 14 and 15. Attach each EHU in place using eight #10-32 x 3/4” Phillips machine
screws, flat washers and nylock nuts. Tighten the bolts securely—but not too tight. If you over-
tighten the nuts you may split the plastic flanges on the EHUs. Drawing 4 shows proper placement of
bolts , nuts and flat washer.
Figure 13 Figure 15
Figure 14
Drawing 4
IMPORTANT. Flat washers need to be place BETWEEN the bolt heads and plastic element hous-
ings to avoid damaging the housings.
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STEP 4: Connect the Required Wiring
Each of the four EHUs has a four conductor control cable attached to it using a waterproof strain relief
fitting. These fittings were properly tightened at the factory and should not be disturbed. The other end
of these control cable have stripped and tinned wires that will be connected to the terminal strips that
were shipped inside the PVC tubing. Locate the terminal strips and small blue packet of connector pro-
tector. Each EHU control cable also has a bare ground wire. It needs to be connected to one posi-
tion of the terminal strip shown at the bottom of figure 16.
Figure 16
The left side of figure 17 shows how these control cables are wired. Note the single position ground ter-
minal in between each 8 position terminal strip. The right side shows how the 16 conductor control cable
(8 pairs of wires, each pair with one colored wire and one black wire) that goes to the shack is connected.
Do NOT connect the 16 conductor cable to the SteppIR™ controller until instructed to do so.
If you ordered the 16 conductor control cable, it is included in your antenna kit. The required 25 pin con-
nector has been installed on one end and the factory has stripped and tinned the wires on the other end.
If you did not order this cable, you must supply it yourself, wire the 25 pin DB-25P connector and pre-
pare the other end. In such case, a separate connector, backshell and cable wiring drawing have been
included in your kit. Call the factory if you would like a cable prepared for you.
Carefully review figures 17 and drawing 4 before proceeding. First complete the reflector, director
and driven element wiring. The 16 conductor cable going to the controller will follow.
Figure 17 Drawing 4
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1. Start with the driven element cable. Dip each wire into the connector protector - except the
bare ground wire (this will be done in the next step). A thin coating is sufficient. Insert each of
the four colored wire into their respective location on the first 8 position terminal strip. Drawing 4
provides the exact location and color codes. Tighten the set screws as each wire is inserted, but be
careful not to over-tighten these screws. Repeat his procedure for the first director, reflector and
second director cables.
2. Twist the four bare ground wires from the four control cables together, dip them into the
connector protector and insert them into one end of the single position terminal strip. Secure
them by tightening the set screw. That completes the control cable wiring for the EHUs.
3. Locate the 16 conductor cable that goes to the controller. If it is not already coiled neatly, coil it
before proceeding. Follow the same procedure as above and connect each colored wire. The 16
conductor control cable has eight pairs of wires, each pair twisted together and taped at the factory.
It is imperative that these twisted pairs do not get mixed up, or you will have to use an volt/
ohm meter to ascertain which pairs match correctly. Figure 18 shows the respective pairings:
black/white; brown/black; red/black; orange/black; yellow/black; blue/black; green/black and
white/red. This sequence is exactly the order in which to connect the wires, as shown in drawing 4.
Follow the same procedure as above and connect each colored wire. Coat each wire with connec-
tor protector. Don’t forget to coat the bare ground wire.
4. Route the single bare ground wire from the 16 conductor control cable in between the two 8 posi-
tion terminal strips. Insert it into the unused end of the single position terminal strip with the 4
ground wires from the EHUs and tighten the set screw. When finished, the single position terminal
strip should be close to the two 8 conductor terminal strips as shown in figure 17.
Position the cables so they are parallel with the two 8 position terminal strips (figure 19). The single
16 conductor control cable will be on one side and the four 4 conductor cables the other. Slide the ca-
bles and terminals strips into the PVC tube (figure 20). Then pull all 5 cables into the slot in the PVC
tubing (figure 21).
Figure 18 Figure 19 Figure 20 Figure 21
That completes the required wiring.
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NOTE: If you are upgrading to a 4 element from a SteppIR™ 3 element Yagi, you will need to use the included 35
foot roll of 4 conductor cable to extend the control cable on each antenna housing to accommodate the longer boom
length. The process is easy - first, cut the cable to the desired length, ensuring that each antenna housing control
cable will reach the terminal strip located at the mast plate. Match the color of each wire, solder and thoroughly
wrap with electrical tape. When this is completed, continue with the steps below.

STEP 5: Attach the Wiring Enclosure and Control Cable to the Boom
Locate the unattached white PVC tube cap, #56 stainless steel hose clamp and
black electrical tape.
Place the cap onto the open end of the PVC tubing. You do not need to glue the
cap. It will be trapped against the 2-1/2” U-bolt as shown in figure 22, thereby
keeping it from coming loose. The PVC tubing serves as our wiring enclosure
and protects the connections from the weather.
Fasten the wiring enclosure to the boom using the #56 stainless steep hose
clamp. Center it as shown in figure 22. Do not trap the cables between the
clamp and PVC tubing or over-tighten the clamp.
Start at one end of the boom and tape all the cables snugly to the bottom of
the boom so there are no loops or slack cables. This is to prevent the cables
from becoming damaged when moving the antenna and installing it on
your tower.
Six equally spaced tape points on both sides of the boom should be fine (figure
23). Then tape the cables to the bottom of the boom on both sides of the boom-
to-mast plate using two wraps of electrical tape.
Position the wiring enclosure so it is snug against the boom and the loose end of
the cap is trapped against the 2-1/2” U-bolt as shown in figure 22. Make sure
the slot is facing downward. The slot is intentionally left unsealed so that any
water from condensation inside the tube can escape.
Secure the 16 conductor cable and coax to the boom about 8” from the SO-239
connector. NOTE: Be sure to secure the cables before placing the antenna
on the tower, as you will not be able to reach the driven element from the
tower! Refer to drawing 5 below for our suggested cable configuration.
Figure 22
Figure 23
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STEP 6: Prepare the Fiberglass Element Support Tubes
Locate the eight fiberglass poles, two rolls of black electrical tape, two rolls of Black
silicone self-curing tape and your tape measure. Note that stainless steel reinforcing
rings are used on some pole sections to provide extra strength in potential high wind
conditions.
The green fiberglass poles are all assembled in the same manner and, when ex-
tended, become element support tubes (ESTs) for the elements themselves. The ele-
ments (flat copper-beryllium strips) are shipped retracted inside their respective
EHUs. Repeat the following procedure for each of the eight poles.
1. Telescope a pole to full length by pulling each section out firmly in place using
a twisting motion . Be sure each joint is locked in place and fully extended.
Pole lengths may vary but, when fully extended, each pole must be at least 17 ft
8 inches in length as measured from the butt end of the pole to the tip (figure 24).
Verify the length for each pole before wrapping the joints.
2. In this step you will wrap each joint on the fiberglass poles with the all weather
electrical tape. Each joint needs 1/2” of tape on both sides of the joint (figure
25, the picture looks like there is more, but adhere to the 1/2” rule or you will
come up short on silicone wrap in step 3). Exception. On joints with reinforc-
ing rings, the tape must continue further so it extends 1/2” beyond the ring
and back onto the fiberglass pole.
The common method for wrapping tape requires starting the tape at an angle of
about 10 degrees to the object being wrapped and continuing around it in the same
direction, overlapping the tape over itself by about one-half a tape width per wrap
until the desired area has been covered. Be sure to use plenty of tape.
Apply one complete wrap of electrical tape around the fiberglass tube as you begin,
and then work your way across the joint and back using half wraps, so that the en-
tire area is seamlessly covered. Carefully stretch and smooth the tape with your
finger as you apply, and especially when you change directions - this will help avoid
ripples and have the tape lie as smoothly as possible. At the end of the run, cut the
tape with a knife or scissors and press the end onto the pole. Then run your hand
over the tape a couple of times to firm up the bonding. The final joint should look
like figure 25.
Figure 24
Figure 25
Drawing 6
Figure 26
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3. Next, you will weatherproof each joint with the green self-curing silicone tape. It is important that
you pre-cut the silicone tape to the recommended lengths.If you do so, you will have more than
enough for each joint. Refer to drawing 6 on the prior page for proper lengths for each joint. In
the event you require more silicone wrap, Home Depot carries Model HTP-1010 Gardner Bender
Silicone Rubber Fusion Tape in their electrical department, UPC code: 032076560102; Radio Shack
and Wal-Mart are authorized retailers for the brand we buy, Tommy Tape. You can also purchase
extra from us, at $7 per 20 foot roll.
IMPORTANT: Silicone tape will not stick to just any surface. It only bonds to itself. Be sure to
remove all the connector protector residue from your hands before handling silicone tape, as that
residue will cause the silicone wrap not to adhere to itself in places. take care to keep the silicone
wrap free of dirt or debris. Also, this tape MUST be cut. Do not tear it. Wash your hands before
completing the following steps.
Position the green silicone wrap about 1/4” to the right of the black electrical tape. Using the common
way discussed on the prior page, wrap one layer completely around the pole so the tape fully overlaps it-
self. Then slowly wrap ONE LAYER of silicone tape to the left, extending about 1/4” beyond the black
tape. When you reach the end, wrap one layer completely around the pole so the tape fully overlaps, just
as you did at the beginning of the wrap. As before, carefully stretch and smooth the tape as you go. Fig-
STEP 7: Attach the Fiberglass Element Support Tubes to the Element Housing Units
The butt ends of the green fiberglass poles may very slightly in outside diameter. Some of them may
have been sanded, while others were not. The colors at the ends will be either natural, or black. The dif-
ference in colors has no affect on performance. Do not be concerned if they vary slightly in tightness
when being installed on the EHUs. This is normal. All poles are tested at the factory prior to shipping.
The EHTs on the EHUs have aluminum reinforcing rings attached to provide extra strength in high wind
conditions (figure 27).
Locate the eight flexible connection couplers (FCCs) and repeat the following procedure for each of the
eight fiberglass poles.
1. Place the narrow end of an FCC onto the butt end of an EST. Slide it about 6” out onto the EST
(figure 28).
Figure 27 Figure 28 Figure 29
Figure 30
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2. Insert the butt end of that EST into one of the EHTs on an EHU, as shown in figure 29. It is very im-
portant to ensure that the butt end of the EST firmly bottoms out inside the EHT. Make sure
the EST is seated all the way into the EHT. Then push the FCC firmly onto the EHT until it is
flush with the aluminum reinforcing ring on the EHT. You can use a small amount of the connec-
tor protector to assist in sliding the FCC on, as shown in figure 29. The correct mounting position of
the FCC is shown in figure 30. It is imperative that the stainless steel hose clamp be located so
that the clamp on the outside of the FCC on the EHU side of the connection is completely on top
of the aluminum reinforcing ring.
3. Firmly tighten both stainless steel hose clamps, one over the EHT and the other over the EST. Then
test the connection by pulling and twisting it. There should be no slippage at the joints. NOTE: You
should re-tighten each clamp a second time (at least 30 minutes after the first time you tightened
them) before raising the antenna to the tower, to be sure that there has been no cold flowing of the
PVC material on the FCC.
STEP 8: Install the Optional 6 Meter Passive Element (If ordered)
The 6 meter passive element kit consists of two passive elements. Each one is a different length, and each
one has a different size of stainless steel U-bolt due to their respective placing on the boom.
The first passive element consists of three pieces; One 1/2” x 58-1/2” element section and two 3/8” x
26.5” element sections (figure 31). The overall length is approximately 110.5”. This passive element is
placed on the boom 43” from the center point of the driven element to the center of the 6m passive
element the center of the green telescoping tube of the driven to the center of the aluminum 6m passive
element) using a 2.25” U-bolt.
The second passive element consists of three pieces; One 1/2” x 58” element section and two 3/8” x
23.35” element sections. The overall length is approximately 104.5”. This passive element is placed on
the boom 69” from the center point of director 2 and the center of the passive element using a 2” U-
bolt.
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Figure 31
1. Locate the small packet of connector protector. Two #6-32 x 3/4” machine screws with split lock
washers and nuts are shipped attached to each end of the 1/2” element sections. Remove the ma-
chine screws from the 1/2” tubing and identify the ends of the 3/8” tubing that have the least amount
of distance from the edge of the tubing to the drilled hole. Lightly coat the circumference of those
areas with a very thin film of the connector protector. Slide the coated end of the 3/8” tubing into the
1/2” tubing, align the holes and securely fasten the pieces together with the machine screws. Check
to be sure that the elements are the proper length. Repeat for the second passive element, this
completes the assembly of the element.
2. Using a tape measure, determine the correct passive element placement as shown in Drawing 7 on
page 16. Be sure to measure from the actual element of the 6m passive, NOT from where the U-bolt
attaches (figure 32). Tighten securely. Make sure the elements are aligned with the green fiber-
glass poles.
Figure 32
STEP 9: Install the Boom Truss Support Assembly
Locate the eight 3/16” galvanized cable clips, four 3/16” galvanized thimbles, two 1/4” x 4” galvanized
turnbuckles and the 26 feet of 1/8” non-conductive Phillystran® Kevlar™ cable.
1. Using a hammer, lightly tap the thimbles so that the center opening is forced onto the eye bolt at the
end of the boom (figure 33). Press the thimble back together as close as possible once it is through the
eyebolt. Thread the Phillystran through the eyebolt, so that it rests on the channel of the thimble (figure
34). You will use approximately 12” of Phillystran to loop through the eyebolt (six inches down, six
inches back) as shown in Drawing 8.
Figure 33 Figure 34
Drawing 8
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DO NOT CUT THE PHILLYSTRAN CABLE UNTIL YOU HAVE INSTALLED ONE
SIDE OF THE TRUSS—
THE MEASURMENTS FOR EACH SIDE ARE NOT EQUAL IN LENGTH.

Attach the cable clips to the Phillystran, with the first one as close to the end of the thimble as possible,
so the cable will be “locked” in, and the second approximately 2-1/2” from the first cable clip (figure
35). you will want to thread the Phillystran into the cable clip, so that each section is on top of the other,
as shown in Drawing 9. Tighten the nuts securely.
2. Locate the 2” U-bolt, saddle, two 5/16” nuts, 2” flat plate and two 5/16” nylock nuts. Position the U-
bolt 26” to 30” above the boom on the antenna mast and secure with the two 5/16” stainless nuts (do
not use the nylock nuts yet). Position the eye of the turnbuckles on each leg of the U-Bolt, place the
2” flat plate behind them, and fasten the 5/16” nylock nuts securely as shown in figure 36. When
properly secured, cut the remaining Phillystran cable for use on the other half of the truss.
Figure 35 Figure 36
Drawing 9
3. Attach the thimbles, Phillystran and wire clips in the same manner as in step one on the prior page. The
finished assembly should look like figure 37 and figure 38.
4. While holding the Phillystran in one hand (this will prevent the cable from twisting while you tighten
the turnbuckles), tighten the turnbuckles using a wrench or screwdriver as a lever, until the boom is
evenly supported and level on both sides.
Figure 37 Figure 38
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1. Make sure the Elements are retracted, use the Setup Retract Elements menu selection (page 11;
Operators Manual).
2. All saved information like Serial interface setup and Custom antenna lengths are saved in the CPU so
you will need to manually record these settings before proceeding.
3. Remove the 2 rear connector standoffs using a 3/16” nut driver (there are 6 standoffs if you have the
optional transceiver serial interface).
4. Remove the 4 4-40 screws from the sides of the Box.
5. Slide off the top cover.
6. Unplug the driver PCB by pulling to the rear.
7. Before removing the CPU on the Display Board, note that there is a slight indent on the side of
the chip, facing towards the LCD display circuit board. You will want to reinstall the new chip in
the exact same manner. Extract the CPU (the only chip in a socket) using a PLCC chip extractor, if you
don't have one of these, carefully extract the CPU using a small screw driver that will fit into the slots in
the connector corners. Pry up one corner then the other until the microprocessor chip is free. Be sure to
pry out both sides equally, or you may bend the pins on the CPU.
8. Insert new CPU in the socket making sure the pin 1 indicator (there will be a slight round indent on
the side of the CPU that is used to orient the chip correctly in the socket) is facing the display
9. Reassemble the controller using the New driver PCB taking care to ensure all rows of the connectors
between the two PCBs are aligned properly.
There are slight variations the balun so if your SWR is higher than before use the following procedure to
correct:
a. Select the ham mode.
b. Select the 20m band button or the Band with the highest SWR. Check and Record the SWR.
c. Hold the Select key down while using the UP/ DN arrows to adjust for the best SWR.
To reset this setting back to it’s original value use the Factory Default All in the setup menu (page 8;
Operators Manual).
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Upgrading the Controller (Upgrade Kit Customers Only)

SteppIR Antennas
Web: www.SteppIR.com
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