SteppIR SmallIR User manual

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Revision 2.1 04/15/2020
13406 SE 32nd Street; Bellevue, WA 98005 www.steppir.com Tel: [phone] FAX: [phone]
SmallIR Instruction Manual

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Table of Contents
Topic Page
Table of contents 2
SteppIR - Why Compromise? 3
SteppIR Design 4
SmallIR vertical components 5-6
Antenna Assembly 7-13
Ground mounting of the SmallIR vertical 14
Installing the optional 1:1 balun 15
More about choosing radial systems for ground / above-ground installations 16-19
Using a vertical in or on salt water 20
SteppIR Warranty 21

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SteppIR - Why Compromise?
The SteppIR antenna was originally conceived to solve the problem of covering the six ham
bands (20m, 17m, 15m, 12m, 10m and 6m) on one tower without the performance sacrifices
caused by interaction between all of the required antennas.
Yagis are available that cover 20 meters through 10 meters by using interlaced elements or
traps, but do so at the expense of significant performance reduction in gain and front to back
ratios. With the addition of the WARC bands on 17m and 12m, the use of interlaced elements
and traps has clearly been an exercise in diminishing returns.
Obviously, an antenna that is precisely adjustable in length while in the air would solve the fre-
quency problem, and in addition would have vastly improved performance over existing fixed
length yagis. The ability to tune the antenna to a specific frequency, without regard for band-
width, results in excellent gain and front to back at every frequency.
The SteppIR design was made possible by the convergence of determination and high tech
materials. The availability of new lightweight glass fiber composites, Teflon blended thermo-
plastics, high conductivity copper-beryllium and extremely reliable stepper motors has allowed
the SteppIR to be a commercially feasible product.
The current and future SteppIR products should produce the most potent single tower antenna
systems ever seen in Amateur Radio! We thank you for using our SteppIR antenna for your
ham radio endeavors.
Warm Regards,
John Mertel
John Mertel, WA7IR
President/CEO

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SteppIR Design
Currently, most multi-band antennas use traps, log cells or interlaced elements as a means to
cover several frequency bands. All of these methods have one thing in common–they signifi-
cantly compromise performance. The SteppIR™ antenna system is our answer to the prob-
lem. Resonant antennas must be made a specific length to operate optimally on a given fre-
quency.
So, instead of trying to “trick” the antenna into thinking it is a different length, or simply add-
ing more elements that may destructively interact, why not just change the antenna length?
Optimal performance is then possible on all frequencies with a lightweight, compact antenna.
Also, since the SteppIR can control the element lengths, a long boom is not needed to
achieve near optimum gain and front to back ratios on 20 - 10 meters.
Each antenna element consists of two spools of flat copper-beryllium tape conductor (.54”
Wide x .008” Thick) mounted in the element housing unit. The copper-beryllium tape is perfo-
rated to allow a stepper motor to drive them simultaneously with sprockets. Stepper motors
are well known for their ability to index very accurately, thus giving very precise control of
each element length. In addition, the motors are brushless and provide extremely long ser-
vice life.
The copper-beryllium tape is driven out into a hollow fiberglass elements support tube (see
below), forming an element of any desired length up to the limit of each specific antenna
model (a vertical uses only one side). The fiberglass elements support tubes (poles) are tele-
scoping, lightweight and very durable. When fully collapsed, each one measures approximate-
ly 59” in length. Depending on the model, there may be additional extensions added to in-
crease the overall element length.
The ability to completely retract the copper-beryllium antenna elements, coupled with the col-
lapsible fiberglass poles makes the entire system easy to disassemble and transport.
The antenna is connected to a microprocess
Boom
Element Housing Unit
Element Support Tube
Stepper Drive Motor
Copper Beryllium Tape

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SmallIR Parts Checklist
It is important that you do an inventory of the items that were shipped to you. Nothing is worse than
discovering a day before a planned installation that there are missing parts! We do our very best to en-
sure that you receive everything needed for construction of your antenna, but better to be safe than
sorry—inventory your parts well in advance of your installation. The items in blue represent options
available for the SmallIR—you will need to check these items off only if you purchased them.
✓QTY PART # DESCRIPTION
170-3411-01 SmallIR EHU
110-1015-22 EHU Lid w/ No Vent Hole
110-1015-12 EHU Gasket
170-4001-01 SDA 100 Controller
170-4005-01 SDA 2000 Controller
120-8030-02 33V Power Supply
120-8040-01 Power Cord
171-0014 SmallIR Instruction Manual
1- SDA 100 Controller Manual
1- SDA 2000 Controller Manual
120-6208-01 25 Pin Male Connector
120-6209-01 25 Pin Back Shell
172-0003-21 SmallIR Hardware Kit
110-1109-21 Vertical Antenna Support 1.5” Pipe
110-1013-02 18’ Telescoping Pole
21-6005-01 4 Conductor Cable
06023 SmallIR 40m Coil
06025 SmallIR 80m Coil
72-0003-31 SmallIR Coil Hardware Kit
70-6010-01 25 Pin Dsub Splice Assembly
21-6002-16 4 Ground Radials 16’
21-6002-40 4 Ground Radials 40’
21-6031-32 2 Ground Radials 32’
21-6009-32 Elevated Radial Kit for Verticals

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✓QTY PART # DESCRIPTION
310-1059-01 1.5 x 3” Polyolefin Heat Shrink
260-1006-22 Quick Disconnect Boot
110-1105-11 Rain Cap w/ Foam Plug
172-0054-01 Lid Mounting Hardware
109-1022-08 8” Coax Seal
110-1028-01 Anti-Seize Packet
SmallIR Hardware Kit
72-0003-21
✓QTY PART # DESCRIPTION
460-0019 10-32 Nylock Nut
460-0090 10-32 x 1.5” SS Screw
460-1004-01 0.5” Plastic Spacer
SmallIR Coil Hardware Kit
72-0003-31
✓QTY PART # DESCRIPTION
11 60-0019 10-32 Nylock Nut
260-0017-10 10-32 x 7/8” Flat Philips Screw
960-0061 10-32 x 7/8” Pan Philips Screw
11 60-0018 10-32 Flat Washer
Lid Mounting Hardware
72-0054-01

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Extend the Fiberglass Pole
• Extend the telescoping poles to full length by firmly “locking” each section of the pole in
place. A good methodology is to position each half of the joint so that they are several
inches apart (while still within each other), and then pull quickly and firmly. Do this for
each pole. There are rubber plugs inside the base section of each telescoping pole. These
make it easier for handling, but they MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE ASSEMBLY. VERIFY
THAT THE FOAM INSERT IN THE PLUG HAS NOT MADE ITS WAY DOWN THE POLE AND
THAT THERE IS NO OTHER FOREIGN DEBRIS INSIDE THE POLE.
Secure polyolefin heat shrink to the telescoping pole joints
• The telescoping pole uses 3 polyolefin heat shrink pieces (PN 10-1059-01). Once finished,
the seal is secure and waterproof. This product requires a heat gun for activation of the
adhesive.
• When positioning the heat shrink, place it so that the joint of the telescoping pole is cen-
tered in the middle of the heat shrink. The graphics below show how this is done.
• Using a heat gun (hair dryers will NOT work), apply heat evenly around the entire area of
heat shrink. Note: There are 4 blue colored lines imprinted on the tubing. The joint is
considered done being heated and waterproof when the lines change color to a yellowish
green. Each line needs to change in color to ensure even adhesion temperatures.
Antenna Assembly

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Install the Rain Cap
• On the tip of the pole you will install the black cap with a piece of tubing passing through
it. The purpose of this vent cap is to keep the rain out, yet still allow air flow through the
foam plug into the telescoping pole.
Warning: Press the cap on approximately 1-1/8” Do NOT press the cap down so hard as to
crimp (damage) the cross tube preventing the pole from properly venting.
Prepare and Install the Solderless Connector
• Remove the 4 pin solderless connector from inside the EHU.
• Prepare the 4 conductor control cable by re-
moving 1” of insulation from the end of the
cable and stripping 1/4” of insulation from the
ends of each of the wires.
• Wire the connector Black, Red, Green, White
using the image to the right as a reference.
1.125
Antenna Assembly

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• Plug the connector back into the control-
ler and route the control cable through
the groove in the lip of the EHU
• Place a .25” piece of the provided coax-
seal over the cable and form it so that
it’s flush with the wire tray. Do this in
the 3 locations indicated in the drawing
on the right.
Attach the EHU Lid and Gasket
• Use the provided anti-seize packet on all
stainless steel hardware.
• Place the gasket between the EHU and lid
and fasten together using the 7/8” Pan
head screws, washers, and nuts.
• Place the washer between the Pan head
screw and the EHU with the nut on the cov-
er side. See the picture to the right for ref-
erence.
• Note the two countersunk holes in the lid.
The countersunk screws will be placed in
these holes with the washer and nuts being
placed on the EHU side.
• Tighten firmly but be careful not to over-
tighten and damage the housing!
• Note: If you purchased the 40m or 80m coil
option, leave out the four screws indicated in the
picture on the left as these holes will be used for
mounting the coil housing.
Antenna Assembly
Place Coax-Seal Here

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Optional: Attach the Coil Housing
• If you are using the optional 40m or 80m coil you
will need to attach the housing at this point.
• Mount the coil housing to the EHU using four 10-
32 x 1-1/4” screws through the holes indicated in
the drawing on the right. Place the 0.5” plastic
spacers between the EHU and coil housing.
• Notice that the nuts are on the coil housing side.
• Connect the coax connector from the coil housing
to the EHU.
Install the Mounting Post
• For ground mounting you will want to ensure that the mounting pole (included) does not
shift or settle over time, using concrete to secure it in the ground is a way to eliminate the
potential for this problem. Position the mounting pole (machined end up) so that the bot-
tom of the element housing is 6 inches above the ground. After the mounting post is in
place and level, you are ready to erect your SteppIR Vertical!
Mount EHU Onto the Mounting Post
• A rubber quick-disconnect boot must be installed (small end first) on the 1-1/2” mast
(ground or elevated mount) before mounting the element housing unit on the mast.
• After the EHU is mounted on the mast, push the rubber boot up onto the fiberglass ele-
ment support tube firmly until it bottoms out. Tighten the two clamps. This boot will pre-
vent the antenna from turning on the mast. See the photos on the next page for refer-
ence.
Antenna Assembly

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Antenna Assembly
Install the Fiberglass Pole
• Install a rubber boot on to the 18 ft. telescoping pole before you insert it into the element
housing tube. The small end of the boot goes on the pole first about 8” up from the butt.
• Slide the butt (large) end of the telescoping fiberglass pole into the element support tube
(EST) until it is firmly bottomed. Push the rubber boot down firmly onto the element hous-
ing tube until it bottoms out and tighten the two clamps. This boot will prevent water from
getting into the element housing unit (EHU).

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PREPARING THE CONTROL CABLE
1. Strip the jacket and aluminum shielding off of the control cable as shown in figure 5.20, approxi-
mately 2.75” from end of control cable, being careful not to damage the individual wires.
2. Strip the plastic insulation off of each of the control cable wires, approximately 0.25” in length
should be bare wire.
CONNECTING CONTROL CABLE TO THE DB25 SOLDERED CONNECTOR
If you purchased the default DB25 connector, follow the steps below to con-
nect it to your control cable. If you purchased the optional DB25 Field Splice
upgrade, skip ahead to the next section.
1. Solder each wire to the appropriate pin of the 25 pin connector. Refer to
the table on the following page for the correct wiring sequence.
2. Attach the clamp to the control cable approximately 1” from the connector
and secure with the provided hardware as shown in figure 5.21.
3. Place the connector between the back-shell halves as shown in figure 5.22
and secure with the provided hardware.
CONNECTING CONTROL CABLE TO THE OPTIONAL DB25 FIELD SPLICE
The optional DB25 Field replaces the standard connector with a con-
venient solder-less connection of the control cable to the SteppIR con-
troller. If you purchased this option, follow the steps below to connect
it to your control cable.
1. Apply the provided dielectric grease to the exposed copper portion
of each wire.
2. Connect each wire to the appropriate terminal and tighten using a
flat head screwdriver. Note that the terminals may be closed by
default. If so, turn the terminal screw ccw ~10 turns to open it be-
fore inserting the wires. Consult the table on the next page for the
correct wiring sequence.
3. Position the control cable between the cable clamp halves as shown in figure 5.23.
4. Tighten the two pan head screws until the cable is snug, but do not over-tighten.
5. Thread the two thumb screws into the connector face as shown in figure 5.23.
6. Plug the DB25 splice into the back of the controller and twist the thumb-screws to secure it.
FIG. 5.22
FIG. 5.20
2.75”
0.25”
FIG. 5.21 FIG. 5.23
Antenna Assembly

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Pin DB42, DB36
(w/80m)
(24 Conductor)
4E, DB36 (No
80m)
(16 Conductor)
DB11, DB18/18E
(16 Conductor)
2E, 3E
(12 Conduc-
tor)
BigIR/SmallIR w/
Coil
(2x4 Conductor)
BigIR, SmallIR,
Dipole
(4 Conductor)
1BLACK BLACK BLACK BLACK BLACK BLACK 2WHITE RED RED BROWN RED RED 3WHITE/BLACK STRIPE GREEN GREEN RED GREEN GREEN 4BLACK/WHITE STRIPE WHITE WHITE ORANGE WHITE WHITE 5BLUE BROWN BROWN YELLOW BLACK 6BLUE/WHITE STRIPE BLUE BLUE GREEN RED 7BLUE/RED STRIPE ORANGE ORANGE BLUE GREEN 8BLUE/BLACK STRIPE YELLOW YELLOW VIOLET WHITE 9ORANGE VIOLET VIOLET GREY
10 ORANGE/RED STRIPE GREY GREY WHITE 11 ORANGE/BLACK STRIPE PINK PINK PINK 12 GREEN CREME CREME CREME 13 BLACK/RED STRIPE WHITE/ORANGE
STRIPE
14 ORANGE/GREEN
STRIPE WHITE/BLACK
STRIPE
15 WHITE/BLACK-RED WHITE/RED STRIPE 16 RED/BLACK-WHITE WHITE/GREEN
STRIPE
17 BLACK/WHITE-RED WHITE/ORANGE
STRIPE
18 GREEN/WHITE STRIPE 19 GREEN/BLACK STRIPE 20 RED 21 RED/WHITE STRIPE 22 WHITE/RED STRIPE WHITE/RED STRIPE 23 RED/BLACK STRIPE WHITE/BLACK
STRIPE
24 RED/GREEN STRIPE WHITE/GREEN
STRIPE
Solder the unshielded drain wire of the control cable to the chassis (ground) of the Standard 25 Pin Connector, or one of the “G” pins on the op- tional Field Splice Connector
CONNECTING CONTROL CABLE TO THE DB25 FIELD SPLICE
Refer to the table below for the correct wiring sequence when connecting your control cable to your 25
pin connecter.
Standard DB25 Connector DB25 Field Splice
Antenna Assembly

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Mounting the Antenna (ground)
Now you are ready to connect the radials! We recommend using a lug connector at the end of
your radials, and then tightening the lug onto the connector post shown in Figure 19. If you
purchase optional radial kits (Figure 13), you will notice there are 4 wires per set, all soldered
and crimped to a lug connector.
Figure. 15 Figure 19
Ground
Figure 17
Mounting Pole
Ground Radials (4 - 16’ - 16ga insulated

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A balun is an electrical circuit used to help resolve the inherent problem of feeding an antenna
with an electrically unbalanced (coax) feed line. It is intended to present an infinite impedance
to any RF current that might otherwise flow on the outer conductor (shield) of the coax pro-
ducing radiation from the line. This current, if high enough, can cause heat buildup and po-
tential damage to the radio as well as a distorted radiation pattern.
Why is it Optional ?:
In the normal configuration, ground mounted with 12 or more radials, the ground will bleed/
drain the unwanted RF signal from the coax shield.
When Should You Use A Balun ?:
• When elevating the base of a vertical
antenna above the ground
• When only a few radials are used
• When the coax run is shorter than the radials
• When the ground condition is poor
• Unusual SWR readings on one band
Balun Installation
The balun is shown in figure 25. There is a mount-
ing flange with 4 holes molded into the housing.
There are numerous options for mounting the bal-
un—by far the most popular is to mount the balun
on an adjacent post or similar structure, or even on
a piece of wood that rests on the ground. Figure 26
shows how to connect the balun when using the
BigIR without the 80m coil. Figure 27 shows how to connect the balun with a BigIR and op-
tional 80m coil.
Figure 25
Antenna
Radio
Ferrite
Toroidal
Core
Coax
Figure 23
18
Figure 26
Figure 27
Optional (1:1) Balun

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All vertical monopoles need some form of counterpoise in which antenna image currents flow
to work efficiently. This counterpoise usually consists of a system of radial wires placed ei-
ther on the ground or elevated above ground.
This is not an in depth publication but simply a general guide on installing and using the
SteppIR verticals. There is much more information available in various publications if you
need it. The ARRL Antenna Handbook is a good source for additional information.
By following a few simple guidelines, you can obtain excellent performance from vertical
antennas mounted on the ground or elevated above the ground. There are a number of verti-
cals available that say “no radials required”, but they do have “radials”, in the form of a short-
ened, tuned counterpoise system. As you might expect, you pay a price for such a small
counterpoise system - less efficiency.
As you will see in the following pages, you can get fairly high efficiency with a relatively
modest radial system that will far outperform small counterpoise systems. It should be noted
that counterpoise systems are only good for curing near field losses caused by losses from the
earth, which is a poor conductor of RF, even with good soil. There is nothing you can do
about far field losses that reduce the signal strength and low angle radiation, except get to
some saltwater. We briefly discuss salt water locations later on in this article.
Ground Mounting:
CONS
• Takes 120 radials to equal an elevated
vertical with 2 resonant radials (90% effi-
cient)
• Surrounding objects can reduce signal
strength
PROS
• The radials can be any length and they work
on all frequencies
• Easy to mount
• Easy access
• Lower visual profile
• Eight to twelve 0.1 wavelength radials gives
60% - 65% efficiency (one set of 8 - 12 ra-
dials cut to 0.1 wavelength at lowest fre-
quency)
Ground Mount or Elevate?

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Elevated Mounting:
PROS
• + 90% efficient with two .25 wavelength
radials
• Antenna is generally more “in the clear”,
so surrounding objects don’t cause as
much attenuation
• A peaked metal roof will make a very good
all-frequency radial system
CONS
• Requires two .25 wavelength radials for
each band of operation (radials interact, so
spacing will affect length)
• Mounting is generally more involved
• Visually higher profile
• Must be mounted high enough that people
won’t walk into it
• Needs to be about .2 wavelengths high to
get an ideal 50 ohm match
• Radials need at least a 20° slope to get a
good match
• Involves adjusting and fine tuning the ra-
dial lengths
Ground Mounting:
If you chose to ground mount the vertical, pick a spot that will allow you the best chance of
spreading your radials evenly around the antenna, and away from trees and other objects if pos-
sible. Mount the antenna within one foot of ground if possible, the closer to ground the better.
Next, you will need to determine how much effort and wire you are willing to invest in this in-
stallation. The tradeoffs are as follows:
1. More radials equals higher efficiency (see Graph 1)
2. More short radials are generally better than a few long ones
3. If only a few radials are going to be used, they need not be very long
4. If you have very good earth (very few of us actually do), you can obtain good performance
with very few radials.
Graph 1
Number of Radials
% Efficiency
015 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
0
20
40
60
80
100
Number of radials

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Page 18
Four radials are what we consider to be the absolute minimum in average soil. How much you
have to gain with a good radial system depends on how good your earth is. Most of us have
poor earth conditions, so the radial system is important. The worse the earth is, the more can
be gained with radials. Graph 2 shows a graph produced by Brian Edward (N2MF) that illus-
trates the relative signal gain you get with the radials and varying length over poor earth. With
better earth, the gain difference between 4 radials and 120 radials will be about 2.5 dB, as op-
posed to 4 dB with poor earth.
If you are restricted to .1 wavelength radials there is not much advantage to using more than
about 24 radials. You can see from Graph 3 that if more radials are used there is a huge ad-
vantage to making them longer.
If you cannot lay the radials out in a symmetrical radial pattern, don’t worry too much - it will
distort your omni-directional pattern slightly but won’t reduce your efficiency very much. Lay
the radials out in the best manner possible given your situation. There are various ways to ac-
complish laying a radial system, including turning corners, etc. Good results are limited only to
your creative energy and determination! Be aware that very high voltages can exist at the ends
of radials, so be certain that no one can come into contact with them. It is a good idea to use
insulated wire to protect from corrosion, and don’t bury the radials any deeper than necessary,
one to three inches is sufficient.
Graph 3
Graph 2
Number of Radials (N)
Sufficient Radial Length (wavelength)
015 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
0
0.08
0.16
0.24
0.32
0.4
0.48
Number of radials
120 Radials
Radil Length in Wave length
Relative Gain
0 0.06 0.12 0.18 0.24 0.3 0.36 0.42 0.48 0.54 0.6
-1.2
-0.6
0
0.6
1.2
1.8
2.4
3
3.6
N=48
N=12
N=24
N=4
N=120
N=96
Radial length in wavelength
96 Radials
48 Radials
24 Radials
12 Radials
4 Radials

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Page 19
Radial Droop Angle Antenna Impedance
0° =22 Ohms
10° =28 ohms
20° =35 ohms
30° =47 ohms
40° =53 ohms
50° =55 ohms
Note: above 50° results in diminishing returns
Elevated Mounting:
You can elevate a vertical just a few feet from the ground (4 feet for 20m, 8 feet for 40m) and
get fairly good performance with just 2 radials (elevated as well) per band of operation. The
problem is you won’t have a very good match to 50 ohms, and the close proximity of the earth
will degrade the signal - especially if it is poor earth. For ideal matching, we recommend .2
wavelength (about 15 feet on 20m and 30 feet on 40m) at the lowest planned frequency of oper-
ation As the height decreases below .2 wavelength, the ground losses start to increase, unless
you have very good ground. When a vertical is raised off the ground the impedance drops fairly
rapidly from 36 ohms (Over perfect ground or with many radials it will be close to 36 ohms,
over real ground it is generally 40– 60 ohms) to about 22 ohms when .3 wavelength is reached.
This would make a pretty poor match to 50 ohms, so a couple of tricks are in order. Once you
elevate a vertical, two radials are all you really need. It is important that you try to keep a 180°
angle between the two (opposed, directly in line) for the best pattern. Spread the radials out as
far as possible to reduce interaction, if they are less than a foot apart it can be difficult to get a
good match on all bands. To facilitate a match to 50 ohms you can angle the radials downward,
this raises the impedance of the antenna as you increase the angle downward. Graph 4 shows
the approximate relationship of radial angle to impedance:
Graph 4

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Page 20
Can’t get enough droop angle to achieve a good match? Simply adjust the antenna element
slightly longer than the factory 1/4 wavelength (up to 20% longer) settings and the impedance
will rise. This will cause the radials to be too long, so they may need to be pruned a bit. Be
aware that increasing the antenna 2% to 3% longer may require radials to be 5% to 7% shorter.
Once you have a good match, replace the factory default values by saving the new antenna (to
do this you will use the “create, modify” feature in the setup mode).
When the vertical is elevated you can get away with just one resonant radial, however, the pat-
tern won’t be omni-directional. You will have -12 dB to 15 dB null in one direction
Using a Vertical in on or Near Salt Water:
If you are lucky enough to have a dock over salt water, a vertical can offer unparalleled perfor-
mance for low angle DX. Simply mount the vertical to the dock and attach two radials per
band of operation. They can be stapled right to the dock if it is non-metallic. Mounting the
vertical in ground flooded by salt water a couple of times per day can be equally effective.
Proximity to the ocean improves the far field loss of a vertical and allows very low angle radia-
tion - get as close to the water as possible to enhance performance.
Due to the fact that RF does not penetrate more than 2 inches into the water, direct coupling (a
wire in the water) is difficult. Objects like metal floats or boats, providing they are large
enough, can make good grounds in salt water. If you are using a metal boat or large metal ob-
ject, corrosion is no longer a problem because the large surface capacitively couples to the wa-
ter. When using a small metal float (3 ft x 3 ft is just enough to “connect” to salt water), you
want to be certain that the metal does not corrode over time. For long term immersion, Monel
is a good (but fairly expensive ) choice.