Streetstrider 3i User manual

3i and 7i Owner’s Manual

The Elliptical

that MOVES You!

SHOW US HOW YOU STRIDE

As the StreetStrider community grows, we love to see real

customers like yourself share their experience online!

To join our online community, post a video or picture with

your StreetStrider on your Instagram and Facebook pages.

• Ask a friend or family member to lm you with

a smart phone camera.

• Tell us what you love about your StreetStrider.

• Get some action shots using your StreetStrider.

• Make sure to tag @streetstrider and use the

hashtags #StreetStrider #WeStrideTogether

in your post.

Once you post, we will make sure to repost

on our page and tag you as a thank you!

@STREETSTRIDER

As a professor for 20 years, I rode

my bicycle to and from work every

day because I liked the physiological

efciency and low carbon footprint, and

I loved being outdoors. I also worked out

in the university rec center, and when

the stationary elliptical cross trainers

showed up, I saw people waiting in line

to use them. We all loved the low impact

elliptical motion, but we didn’t want to

be stuck inside. That’s when I realized

there was an opportunity to invent a

new and fun way to exercise.

After several tests for design,

balance, and torque development,

I came up with the idea of the

StreetStrider, the world’s rst elliptical

cross trainer on wheels!

At StreetStrider, our mission is

to provide a fun, innovative exercise

experience that inspires and supports

a healthy and active lifestyle. It’s been

a dream come true to hear customers

from all over the world tell us how the

StreetStrider has allowed them to truly

enjoy their exercise routine and improve

their overall health and quality of life.

I now ride my StreetStrider to and

from work every day, and I hope your

StreetStrider will soon become an

integral part of your exercise routine.

But remember, just like learning to ride a

bike as a kid, it could take some time to

get used to the outdoor elliptical motion.

Don’t give up! Each time you stride, you

will gain a little more condence, and

soon you’ll be able to enjoy all the health

benets the StreetStrider provides.

Sincerely,

Dave Kraus, PhD

Inventor, StreetStrider Enthusiast

@STREETSTRIDER

Our mission is

to provide a fun,

innovative exercise

experience that inspires

and supports a healthy

and active lifestyle.

Table of Contents and

QR Codes

1. About This Manual - 5

2. Parts Identication of the StreetStrider 3i and 7i - 6

3. Assembling the 3i and 7i - 10

3.1 Unpacking and Prep - 10

3.2 Front Wheels - 11

3.3 Rear Wheel 3i - 12

3.3 Rear Wheel 7i - 13

3.4 Poles and Skis - 14

3.5 Brakes - 18

3.6 Rear Hub Shifter 3i - 20

3.7 Front Wheel Alignment - 21

3.8 Stability Adjustment - 23

3.9 Folding - 24

4. Seven Simple Steps to Learn to Stride - 26

5. Safety Equipment - 28

6. Mechanical Safety & Maintenance - 30

7. Limited Warranty - 32

8. Return Policy - 34

Scan below to watch

the StreetStrider

3i Assembly video,

How To Get Started

video and more!

Scan below to watch

the StreetStrider

7i Assembly video,

How To Get Started

video and more!

1. About This Manual

This StreetStrider 3i and 7i Owner’s Manual contains important assembly, maintenance, safety

and performance information. It was written to help you get the most performance, comfort,

enjoyment and safety out of your new StreetStrider. Keep this manual handy for future

reference.

IMPORTANT: If your StreetStrider was purchased unassembled, read this manual before

you assemble it. The Limited Warranty found in this manual on page 30 applies only to

StreetStriders that comply with the assembly instructions in this Owner’s Manual.

IMPORTANT: YOU SHOULD READ THIS MANUAL BEFORE YOU GO OUT ON YOUR FIRST RIDE.

Riding a StreetStrider can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. It is

highly recommended that your rst stride on your new StreetStrider be taken in a controlled

environment, away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists, and wearing your helmet.

Proper maintenance of your StreetStrider is your responsibility as it reduces the risk of injury.

This manual contains many IMPORTANT, CAUTION and WARNING statements concerning

the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your StreetStrider. When inspecting your

StreetStrider, be certain to secure all parts properly as described in Table 2.1. Under-tightening

or over-tightening can result in component damage. StreetStrider parts have metric hardware -

always use the correct tools.

IMPORTANT: It is impossible to predict every condition that will occur while striding.

StreetStrider (the Company) has made no representation about the safe use of the

StreetStrider under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any StreetStrider

that cannot be predicted or avoided, and the Company recommends safe and cautious

striding.

WARNING: Failure to read and comply with all assembly, safety, performance and maintenance

requirements and warnings, and unsafe or improper use of the StreetStrider could result in

serious injury or death.

Figure 2.1 StreetStrider 3i and 7i Parts. Refer

to Table 2.1 for part numbers and descrip-

tions.

2. Parts Identication

of the StreetStrider

3i and 7i 15

24 1

Figure 2.2 StreetStrider 3i and 7i Parts. Refer to Table 2.1 for part numbers and descriptions.

Brake unlocked

Parking pin OUT

Brake locked

Parking pin IN

14 36

3029

Outboard Rod end

Table 2.1 Part numbers and descriptions.

#DESCRIPTION HARDWARE SPECIFICATIONS QTY STATE

1Main Frame Bone 1

2Head Tube Bottle cage bosses M5 x P0.8 threads for 2 cages 4 Tighten to secure cages

3Crossbar 1

4Front Beam 1

5Fold Joint Quick Release clamp

stem nylon lock nut M6 x P1.0 x L20 x H10 x W10 1Snug to secure

6Stride Pole Upper Left and right side 2

7Stride Pole Lower 2

8Strider Ski Composite bushings

Roller bearings OD12 x ID10 x L15 x 17 mm ange, at Joint #2

OD 26 x ID 18 x L 20, at Joint #3 2

Grease

9Foot Platform 4 mm hex screw, M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H12 x W4, at head 12 Tighten

10 Rear Fender Frame 4 mm hex screw, M5 x P0.8 threaded hole for luggage rack 1

11 Fender Stay 2

12 Chain Stay 2

13 Hand Grip Left and right side, rubber 2

14 Twist Grip Shifter 3 mm hex screw M4 x P0.7 x L16 x W3, clamp 1 Tighten

15 Brake Lever 5 mm hex screw

Parking pin

Cable housing adjuster

Cable doubler

M5 x P0.8 x L20 x H10 x W5, clamp

OD 10, spring loaded

M10 x P2.0 barrel adjuster with lock ring

Front brake, with adjuster and lock ring

Tighten

Adjust-lock

16 Joint #1, Cross Bar-Pole

Pivot Clamp Assembly 4 mm hex screw

3 mm hex set screw

4 mm hex pan head

Roller bearings

4 mm at head screw

M5 x P0.8 x L30 x H8 x W4, clamp cap

M6 x P1.0 x L5, with cup end, cross bar

M6 x P1.0 x L10 lock screw

OD26 x ID18 x L20, in cross bar

M6 x P1.0 x L20, inner shaft end

Tighten evenly to secure

pole

Tighten

Grease

Tighten

17 Joint #2, Pole-Ski Pivot 8 mm hex screw,

washer,

17 mm nut

M10 x P1.5 x L75 x H15 x W8

OD16 x ID10 x T1

M10 x P1.5 x L10 x W17, nylon lock

Snug but allow joint

movement

18 Joint #3, Ski-Crank arm

Pivot 6 mm hex spindle

Roller bearings OD18 X L60 x W6, thd 9/16” right and left, C clip

OD26 x ID18 x L20 2 Tighten

Grease

19 Front Beam Pivot 8 mm hex screw

3 mm hex set screw

Tapered roller bearing

M10 x P1.5 x L20 x W8, front cap

M6 x P1.0 x L5 x W3, rear end

OD 47 x ID 20 X T15

Tighten

Grease

20 Front Wheel Tire 16” x 1 3/8”, ISO 349 x 37

Rim 36H, ISO 349 x ID15, OD22 width

Spoke 14 ga 143 mm

80-85 psi

21 Front wheel hub 19 mm hex axle nut M12 x P1.75 x L10 x W19, nylon lock 2 Tighten

22 Steering Linkage Inboard and outboard

spherical rod ends

Threaded linkage rod

M8 x P1.25 x L20 x W14 ats on stud

M8 x P1.25 x L10 x W13 nylon lock nut

M8 x P1.25 x L20 rod, right and left thread ends

M8 x P1.25 x L5 x W14, right and left jam nuts

Lubricate balls

Tighten

#DESCRIPTION HARDWARE SPECIFICATIONS QTY STATE

23 Bottle Cage Bosses 4 mm hex in boss M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H10 x W4, socket 2 Tighten

24 Crank Arm Set with

Bottom Bracket

Chain Ring With Guard

Quick Release Lever,

Stem, and Block

8 mm hex screw

Square taper

17 mm nut

M8 x P1.0 x L15 x H12 x W8, 18 mm ange

68 x 122 mm

52 T

Tighten

25 Chain 1/2” x 1/8” x 93 links 1Lubricate

26 Internal Gear Hub 15 mm axle nuts 3 or 7 speed, 3/8” x 26 tpi x W15 axle nuts 2 Tighten

27 Rear Wheel Tire 20” x 1 3/8”, ISO 451 x 37

Rim 36H, ISO 451 x ID15, OD22 width

Spoke 14 ga, 199 mm for 3 sp, 197 mm for 7 sp

80-85 psi

28 Front Disc Brake 5 mm hex mount screw

5 mm hex caliper screw

5 mm hex outer pad

3 mm hex inner pad

Cable housing adjuster

4 mm hex cable clamp

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through knuckle

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through bracket

W5 outer pad adjuster with 2 mm lock set screw

W3 inner pad adjuster, through center screw hole

M6 x P1.0 x L15 knurled for ngers with lock ring

M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H10 x W4, socket and nut

Tighten

Adjust-tighten

Adjust

Adjust-lock

Adjust-tighten

29 Front Disc Rotor 4 mm hex screw M5 x P0.8 x L10 x H10 x W4, pan head 12 Tighten

30 King Pin Bolt In Front

beam clevis 8 mm hex bolt

washer

17 mm nut

M10 x P1.5 x L75 x H15 x W8, socket

OD16 x ID10 x T1

M10 x P1.5 x L10 x W17, nylon lock

Snug but allow knuckle

swivel

31 Steering knuckle w/

Lean Stop 5 mm hex screw

Lean stop disc

Composite bushing

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, socket screw

W10 nylon lock nut

OD24 x T4 with 6 mm offset hole

OD12 x ID10 x L15 x 17 mm ange

Adjust-tighten

Grease

32 Bell Crank for 3 Speed

Hub 2.5 mm hex screw

Push Rod

M5 x P0.8 x L6 x W2.5 set screw

Gear alignment window

Shift cable barrel adjuster

86.85 mm

Snug to secure

Adjust

Insert into axle

33 Rear Disc Brake 5 mm hex mount screw

5 mm hex caliper screw

5 mm hex outer pad

3 mm hex inner pad

Cable housing adjuster

4 mm hex cable clamp

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through drop out

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through bracket

W5 outer pad adjuster with 2 mm lock set screw

W3 inner pad adjuster, through center screw hole

M6 x P1.0 x L15 knurled for ngers with lock ring

M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H10 x W4, socket and nut

Tighten

Adjust-tighten

Adjust

Adjust-lock

Adjust-tighten

34 Rear Disc Rotor 4 mm hex screw M5 x P0.8 x L10 x H10 x W4, pan head 6 Tighten

35 Rear Drop Out Dropout slot for rear hub axle

Holes for rear brake mounting bracket

M5 x P0.8 hole for rear luggage rack screw

36 Shifter Cassette for 7 Sp Cassette pulley and lock ring on 7 sp hub 1 Install-lock

Specication

Key

M=OD of threads, mm L=length W=wrench t, mm

P=pitch, threads/mm H=OD of head T=washer thickness, mm

3. Assembling the 3i and 7i

To assemble your StreetStrider 3i or 7i, rst follow the steps and photos in this manual and view the StreetStrider 3i

and 7i assembly videos where indicated. Included in the shipping box are the StreetStrider 3i or 7i in parts, an Owner’s

Manual and a small bundle in the top tray inside the box containing a tool kit which includes four open end wrenches

17 x 14, 15 x 13, 14 x 12, and 13 x 10 mm, seven hex wrenches 8, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.5, 2, two tire levers, and a 19 mm front hub

socket. The parts bag contains the front beam shaft assembly, a right crank arm screw, the 3i shifter push rod OR the

7i shifter cassette parts, three wheel reectors, two front brake cable tips, zip ties, and two spare inner tubes, all shown

in gure 3.1.2.

3.1 Unpacking and Prep (see video)

FIGURE 3.1.1 The StreetStrider box

shows the up direction. You will

need scissors or blade, pliers, tape

measure, grease and rag.

FIGURE 3.1.4 The main frame

assembly, padded and secured

with zip ties, is on the bottom

cardboard panel, which has corner

cut-outs.

FIGURE 3.1.2 The top tray in the box

holds the parts bundle and the

support layers underneath

protect the StreetStrider.

FIGURE 3.1.5 Grip the corner cut-

outs and lift that panel and the

folded StreetStrider out of the box,

set the unit on a table, and remove

the remaining zip ties.

FIGURE 3.1.3 The front wheel

assembly and rear wheel are the

next 2 layers. Remove the wheels

and set aside.

FIGURE 3.1.6 Once all the packing

is removed, set the foot platform

assemblies (lower pole, ski, foot

platform, crank arm) aside.

3.2 Front Wheels (see video)

FIGURE 3.2.1 Lay the frame on it’s

left side. Retrieve the front beam

shaft assembly, take the cap,

tapered bearings and back plate

off the shaft, and get the 8 and 3

mm hex wrenches.

FIGURE 3.2.4 With the

frame upright, slide the

back plate and one of the

tapered bearings, with

taper facing forward, onto

the shaft. Grease the

bearings.

IMPORTANT: We recommend adding a liquid

thread locker to the threads of the 10 mm screw.

FIGURE 3.2.5 Unfold the

front wheels on the front

beam and set the front

wheel assembly in front of

the shaft.

FIGURE 3.2.6 Grease the

frontbearing race in the

front beam.

FIGURE 3.2.7 Insert the

beam and other bearing

onto the shaft with the

taper facing rearward. Put

the cap over the front of

the beam shaft, insert the

10 mm screw, and tighten

with the 8 mm hex wrench.

FIGURE 3.2.2 Loosen the set screw

under the front beam shaft tube

with a 3 mm hex wrench. Slide the

shaft into the tube so that the at

section on the rear end of the shaft

ts just above the 3 mm screw set.

FIGURE 3.2.3 With the shaft inserted

all the way forward, secure the

shaft by tightening the set screw

with the 3 mm hex wrench.

FIGURE 3.2.8 Lower the

left steering linkage so

the outboard rod end can

be attached to the left

steering knuckle.

FIGURE 3.2.9 Unscrew the 13 mm nylon lock nut from

the rod end stud, insert the threaded stud through

the hole at the forward end of the steering knuckle,

secure the stud with the nylon nut having one

washer above and one washer below the knuckle

and then hold the stud and tighten the nut using two

13 mm wrenches.

FIGURE 3.2.11 Route the front brake cables from

the head tube, under the steering linkage and

over the front beam. If the cable housing is off

of the cables, slide it back on. Insert the left and

right cable and housing into the barrel adjuster

on the left and right brakes, respectively.

FIGURE 3.2.10 Repeat steps

to attach the right steering

linkage.

3.3 Rear Wheel 3i (see video)

FIGURE 3.3.1 Remove the plastic

brace in the rear dropout and loop

the chain over the rear dropout

and the bottom bracket, BB.

FIGURE 3.3.2 Unscrew the acorn

nuts on each end of the axle so

there is an exposed section of axle

under the non-turn washers that

can slide into the dropouts. On the

left side, align the brake rotor with

the brake caliper gap.

FIGURE 3.3.3 Slide axle into

dropouts all the way forward, align

the tongue of the non-turn washers

with dropout slots, nger tighten

the axle nuts on both ends, and

loop chain around hub sprocket.

Then follow the steps in Figures 3.3.1 to 3.3.3 to insert the 7i wheel into the rear dropouts.

IMPORTANT: Inate tires to 80-85 psi.

FIGURE 3.3.4 Remove the

silver acorn nut and yellow

(or gray) non-turn washer

from the right axle end.

FIGURE 3.3.5 From the parts bag, retrieve the shifter

cassette parts, the cassette pulley, the driver cap

ring (often in the rear side of the pulley), and the lock

ring. Press the driver cap over the hub driver until

it snaps down.

FIGURE 3.3.6 Place the

cassette pulley over the

axle so that the yellow dots

on the washer and the

cassette pulley are in line.

FIGURE 3.3.7 Put the lock ring onto

the cassette pulley so that the 2

yellow dots are adjacent.

FIGURE 3.3.8 Rotate the lock ring

45° clockwise to lock the cassette

pulley onto the hub.

FIGURE 3.3.9 Replace the non-

turn washer with tongue pointing

rearward, and screw the acorn

nut back onto the axle a few turns.

3.3 Rear Wheel 7i (see video)

3.4 Poles and Skis (see video)

FIGURE 3.4.1 While the head

tube is folded onto the main

frame, use the 4 mm hex

wrench to remove the 4

screws and caps from the

both pole clamps at Joint #1.

FIGURE 3.4.4 Rotate the QR stem to

the vertical position so that the lever is

against the head tube, then close the lever

downward.

FIGURE 3.4.5 Retrieve the left foot

platform assembly (lower pole, ski, foot

platform, and crank arm with QR lever)

and place to the left of the main frame.

Rotate the BB spindle so that the upper

surface of the left rectangular end

piece on the spindle has the shallow

channel and is horizontal.

FIGURE 3.4.6 Lift the left

crank arm to the 6 o’clock

position and open the QR

lever. Note that the QR

stem, visible in the crank

arm opening, will t into the

channel of the horizontal BB

end piece and lock onto the

BB.

FIGURE 3.4.2 Apply a little

grease to the screw heads

and threads, then set the

caps with screws on

the table.

FIGURE 3.4.3 Raise the head tube while sliding the

quick release, QR, clamp pin to the right. With the

head tube in the full upright position, allow the

clamp pin to insert into the hole.

FIGURE 3.4.7 Rotate the

QR lever 180° so the at

face of the QR stem is

visible in the crank arm

opening, which will allow

the opening to slide over

the horizontal BB end

piece.

FIGURE 3.4.11 If the QR lever closes

without any resistance open the lever,

pull the crank arm off the BB ¼ inch

(6 mm), tighten the 17 mm stem nut

¼ turn, push the crank arm back on,

and close the QR lever. If needed,

repeat until QR closes with some

resistance.

FIGURE 3.4.8 Slide the

crank arm opening over

the BB end piece as far as

possible.

FIGURE 3.4.9 Rotate the QR

lever 180° so that the QR

stem ts into the BB end

piece channel.

FIGURE 3.4.10 Close the

QR lever against the crank

arm. There should be some

resistance.

FIGURE 3.4.12 Lift the right lower pole and t it into the right Joint #1 clamp

base. Place the Joint #1 cap with greased screws over the pole and using

the 4 mm hex wrench, screw each of the 4 cap screws in about 5-10 turns.

Add a little grease to the inner surface of the lower pole.

IMPORTANT: Make sure there is a little grease on the BB spindle so the crank arm slides on rmly.

FIGURE 3.4.13 Apply a small amount of the included grit paste to the upper right pole - the pole with the brake lever and

a shifter - at the height where the pole will be clamped. Then slide it into the lower pole to the level that ts the height of

the user. The upper pole can also be rotated toward the side to provide a comfortable width for the user.

IMPORTANT: A good starting pole height will position the user’s arm

to have a 90° elbow bend, with forearm parallel to the ground when

standing on the platforms and holding the grips of both poles in the

vertical position.

FIGURE 3.4.14 The pole height lines

are used to set the approximate pole

height for the height of the user, from

approximately 5’ to 7’.

FIGURE 3.4.15 With the 4 mm hex

wrench, carefully tighten the Joint

#1 clamp in an X pattern so that

all the screws are tightened evenly

and the space between the clamp

base and cap on the front side of

the pole is equal to the space on

the rear side.

FIGURE 3.4.16 Place the right ski

assembly to the right of the frame,

rotate the left crank to the 12

o’clock position and rest the right

upper pole on the left foot platform.

FIGURE 3.18.15 Attach the lower and

upper pole on the left side following

the procedure used on the right

side. Make sure the left and right

poles are set to the same height,

rotate the poles to approximately

shoulder width of the user and also

parallel from the side view.

FIGURE 3.4.19 Rotate the brake levers to a

forward position, rotate the shifter so the gear

indicator window is seen by the user, tighten

the brake lever clamps with the 5 mm hex

wrench and the shifter clamp with the 3 mm

hex wrench. Use 2 of the zip ties to orderly

hold the cables to the poles.

FIGURE 3.4.17 Rotate the right crank arm to the 6 o’clock position and insert

it into the BB square spindle. Using the 8mm hex wrench, screw the crank

bolt into the spindle and tighten to 30 ft lb, then wrap the chain around the

chain ring.

IMPORTANT: A good

starting pole height

will position the user’s

arm to have a 90° elbow

bend, with forearm

parallel to the ground

when standing on the

platforms and holding

the grips of both poles in

vertical position.

3.5 Brakes (see video)

FIGURE 3.5.1 Make sure the brake rotor is centered in the caliper gap between the pads, and the wheel spins freely. If

adjustment is needed, loosen the caliper positioning screws with a 5 mm hex wrench, ti,ghten the inner pad with the 3 mm

hex wrench inserted through the caliper lever, and the outer pad with the 5 mm hex wrench to center the rotor in the gap,

then tighten the positioning screws. If the rotor is already centered in the caliper gap, tighten the pads against the rotor in

order to attach the brake cable in the next steps.

FIGURE 3.5.2 Pull each of the brake cables down at the right and left brake calipers to make sure there is no exposed

cable visible at the brake lever or at the cable doubler by inserting the cable housing ferrules into the barrel adjusters and

doubler.

Front Brakes

rotor

gap

inner pad

outer pad

caliper postioning

screws

loose barrel

adjuster tight barrel

adjuster and cable

no exposed cables

exposed cables

exposed

cable

X X

FIGURE 3.5.3 Loosen the clamping screw with the 4 mm hex wrench so there is space to route the brake cable under the

nut. Grip the brake cable end with pliers, rotate the pliers to make the cable taut, then tighten the cable clamping screw.

Unscrew the inner and outer brake pads so that a sliver of light can be seen between the rotor and pads and so the wheel

spins freely. Bend the cable away from rotor and squeeze a cable tip onto the end of each cable. Repeat on the other

brake.

To make sure both front brakes stop equally, stand in front of the StreetStrider, squeeze the left brake lever and pull the

StreetStrider forward while slowly easing the brake pressure. If one wheel starts rotating before the other, which begins

to turn the StreetStrider, adjust the brake pads and/or the barrel adjuster at the caliper until that wheel begins to rotate

evenly with the other wheel.

IMPORTANT: Properly adjusted brakes will clamp the wheels when the brake lever is squeezed at

about 1 inch (25 mm) from the rubber grip.

FIGURE 3.5.4 With the chain

wrapped around both the right

crank arm chainring and the rear

hub sprocket, pull the rear wheel

backwards to make the chain taut,

center the front of the wheel in the

frame chain stays, and tighten the

axle nuts with the 15 mm wrench,

rst right side then left. A taut chain

should only move about ½” if lifted at

a point midway between the chain

ring and hub sprocket.

Rear Brake

FIGURE 3.5.6 The

rear brake caliper

is adjusted exactly

as described for a

front brake caliper.

FIGURE 3.5.7

Both brake levers

have a parking

brake pin to hold

the brake lever

in a squeezed

position. If the

parking brake

does not hold,

unscrew the

brake lever barrel

adjuster.

FIGURE 3.5.8 To install the 3 wheel

reectors onto the spokes, position

the reector between spokes and

rotate so the reector ends snap

around the spokes.

clamping screw

3.6 Rear Hub Shifter 3i (see video)

3.6 Rear Hub Shifter 7i (see video)

FIGURE 3.6.1 Retrieve the 3i shifter push rod from the parts

pack, apply a little grease to the rod, and insert it into the

hole on the right end of the axle, black end rst. Attach

the bell crank to the right axle by tting it over the push

rod and right axle nut as close to the dropout as possible,

with the shifter cable routed along the lower edge of the

frame chain stay, then securing it by tightening the 2.5

mm set screw with the 2.5 mm hex wrench.

FIGURE 3.6.3 At the grip on the right pole, twist the shifter

to gear 1. At the rear hub, pull the shifter cable taut and

make sure the length of cable from the ferrule to the

center of the clamping screw is 101 mm (4 in). If not,

loosen the nut with the 10 mm wrench, adjust to 101 mm

and tighten.

FIGURE 3.6.4 Slide the ats of the clamping screw with nut

facing outward into the oblong slot at the 10 o’clock position

of the cassette pulley. Ease the shifter cable housing forward

through the frame so the shifter cable lies in the pulley groove

from the 10 to 6 o’clock position. Insert the 2 mm hex wrench

into the tab with a hole at the 9 o’clock position of the pulley

and rotate the spring-loaded cassette pulley ¼ turn counter

clockwise.

FIGURE 3.6.2 Set the twist grip shifter to gear 2. On the bell

crank, make sure the interior thicker yellow line under the gear

alignment window is between the two thinner yellow lines on

the window. If needed, use the shifter cable barrel adjuster

at the front of the bell crank to move the interior line to the

correct gear 2 position.

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